ello StezStix, When you measured the connector 5:37 I can clearly see that one pin is missing from that connector. If you watch it closely the sixth pin from the right on the connector. It is a small pin. I would check that.
Steve you should pick up an ultrasonic cleaner for things like this. Also very good for cleaning off heavily fluxed boards. Took me ages to find one that didn't have horrible/suspicious reviews. I eventually got a 3ltr one from Allendale Ultrasonics, British brand too (Hertfordshire)
@@yeetboy88YT It's a fairly common practice in the electronic repair industry. There's even specially formulated PCB flux cleaning solutions available for ultrasonic cleaners. However, there are some components that aren't suited to being immersed. Boards with attached LCD screens shouldn't be submerged for example but generally it's very safe and the results are remarkable.
This is a superb video and really shows off both your troubleshooting and soldering skills. How you worked those plastic parts was fantastic, seriously. Total brilliant to watch.
You should shine a very bright light at oblique angles on the LCD. If they're on but the backlight is gone, you should still see an image. IMO, what you showed here was that the digitizer was accepting input, not that the LCD was functioning. Love your videos.
Valiant attempt. Some suggestions (pure guesswork on my part). Do a hard reset to check that the brightness wasn't turned down. Check for 17V backlight voltage on the coil to the right (or cap immediately above) of the bga and also on the small cap t immediately above the screen connector on the right. Also check for 3.8V on the cap immediately to the right of the bga. Check the two diodes to the right of the coil. If the 3.8V is present but the 17V isn't check the state of the ribbon cable at both ends.
Hello StezStix, When you measured the connector 5:37 I can clearly see that one pin is missing from that connector. If you watch it closely the sixth pin from the right on the connector. It is a small pin. I would check that.
Never mind Steve, you can’t win ‘em all. Only thing I remember from Mr Rossmann when it comes to potentially water-damaged gear ... don’t test it by applying power until you have done a full visual inspection. Corrosion gives power the opportunity to go places it was never meant to go! 😀👍
I've run into this issue many times. If it's not the backlight IC, it's mostly likely the LCD ribbon connector. You should have at least gotten it under the microscope to see if any of the pins were bent. Those connectors are known to easily go pear-shaped. So check those pins up close!
If I remember correctly, Joey had this issue one time and the screen brightness was just turned down to zero. After adjusting it, the screen was working.
that thing needs and ultra sonic bath in IPA .. so much damage on those small components. That's a tough fix for sure. Nice work, you got this keep trucking.
You do NOT use an ultrasonic cleaner directly with IPA. That is a recipe for disaster. A ziplock bag with IPA and the component in said bag is the way. Put that in yhe cleaner that has usual water. IPA only is irresponsible and could easily result in an insurance claim for home and property.
Dude! 13:00 ish and you re-flowed the main components without pinging off any little caps or anything! Nice 👍 Nice to see they stayed. SOLID Stupid ribbon cable connector.
Thank you for posting this adventure - even with an undesirable ending - you kept it real. I just went through a similar battle with a switch lite/liquid damage and lost hours over it. I really appreciate the quality video and the fact that you posted it. Thanks!
Hi StezStix! I am looking you from France! Hi your videos are absolutely brilliant, I love your humor, you make me crazy, my friend. Congratulations to your audio compositions, you really sing, very well, well done!
Nice and fun video as always! It hurts being so close to fix something, but not knowing what to do next. I´m pretty sure you´ll suceed the next time you get to it! You fix almost everything!
Steve, there are no such things as failures. Just learning moments and expensive learning moments. And a professional is someone who made all the mistakes in his field. Just remember that. You can dew it. We believe in you
Great job, Steve! It is not a failure yet! My piece of advice should be to not scatter rust around next time tou apply IPA to clean water residue. And if you do, try to dry it asap. Anyway, I’m a complete noob but a big fan of your videos!
I'm 10 mins in. If Steve can rescue this it is his best fix ever. Without a doubt. Unfortunately, I think everything is going against him. Let's see. Good video so far.
Had to pause this video to make this comment. That homage song to your patrons might be the coolest thing I've ever seen done for a channel's supporters 😂🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Steve! As an electronics technician (in my case cell phones), like you, damage due to water exposure to electronic equipment can be very minor or very serious! Sometimes it is quite difficult to get them to work correctly again, and if they do, there are parts that are very resentful. example, corrosion under bga chips, repairable, but a very delicate job
Your videos and your charm are always refreshing, they are making me smile multiple times per video. Besides the educational things, I really enjoy them 🙂.
And we all do this or sum of us for the love of saving another handheld/console even if it does chew up hours and hours of time. Good to c that u keep it real and show that not all these projects r a success like sum channels do
@ 19:58 - *don't* be tempted to tiddle about with the components: as soon as you see the solder flow, then assuming you have put sufficient flux on the pads before you start, the components will simply "float" into position due to surface tension (as does the battery connector immediately you put it in place). You had it right at 19:46 and then flicked it!
I have been following this process and had the exact same issue as you. I literally copied you in reflowing the chip by the lcd connector... and it worked!! but, alas like you, I also have a black screen.... If you shine a bright light though you can see the switch on. Now to fix the backlight. Please do a revisit soon so I can fix mine too
The foreboding bit made me LOL quite loudly. Quite how the inside got so rusty... looks like it went for a swim. Maybe in the loo. And that wasn't earwax..... *shudders*
I would say check the voltage at the display connector at working one and compare it to the broken one and check if you can bridge the missing voltage.
Another very enjoyable and inspirational video…what a bags after all that effort it still didn’t come to full life but considering what you started with the final was a great accomplishment…eat the cookie and enjoy the sweet taste of the success… 👍🏻
Given one inductor has failed open, what's the betting the one for the backlight boost converter has too... As others have suggested, get an ultrasonic tank, it's amazing watching the crud float away from a nasty board even if you only use tap water (kind of assuming you live somewhere up in the NW where we've got lovely soft water) then wash down with Isopropyl alcohol and dry off somewhere warm for a good number of hours.
you should measure on the backlight circuit to see if it has any voltages or any shorts to ground. And the backlight ic probably needs replacing anyway
Decided to replace the Battery in an old iPad. Stuck down hard, so tried a little manual manipulation. Set off a chain reaction. Threw burning iPad onto the front lawn. Didn’t bother trying to fix it further.
The FACT that it bothers you very much means you will get it working eventually. I know when I am tackling such a project, it hangs with me until I either fix it or destroy it beyond any possibly of repair again... And I usually fix it... I think you will as well!
Hey Steve, this can still be about your connector to the daughter board or the same connector on the daughter board as well. Plug in the flex on both and check all lines for continuititititiy ..u know what I mean :D - the backlight is driven over the flex -> daughter board -> backlight. You are close to it - do the last steps and get it! :)
Steve - nice job... If you cut the bristles on your aid brush down shorter, the bristle become more rigid and make cleaning a mess like this easier. FYI
Greetings from Atlanta, Steve! I enjoy your videos a lot, so thanks. What's the name of the wee puppet fella who's on screen when you're talking in the sped-up bits? Is he from a UK TV show that never made it over?
that component you reflowed boosts the voltage from something like 17volt to 40 volt for the back light. (boost IC iirc) also check the diode while your at it. measure it on the cap. if ok. run a jumper from that cap straight to the fpc connector for the backlight. also to double check you are getting a image on the LCD. with no backlight shine a torch on the screen you should be able to see the switch menu lock screen
great video as always but I would avoid using a metal sponger to lift a battery as it could pierce it and cause it to explode or catch on fire as lithium ion battery are very dangerous
Hi Stez, First you can check if the LCD driver is ok by shining an torch on the LCD screen you should see an picture then you know the LCD driver is ok but the backlight driver is faulty. The backlight driver is a TPS61163 that is responsible for generating the power for the LED's in the LCD screen. The brightness for the LED's depends on your backlight settings in the console. If the setting is max then the power of max +17V will be generated by this IC at the SW pin and then goes to the backlight connector on the joy-con board. The brightness is controlled by a PWM signal that comes from the APU also to enable the backlight driver this enable signal comes from the APU. The first 3 pins on the ribbon cable connector on the mainbaord from the left side (border of the PCB) are for the backlight circuit. On one of them you should get max +17V in a good working backlight driver. Gr. Jim
In the end of the video it really feels like you are really very close to fix that stupid game thing. I think its worth to come back to it at a later point. I think you really fixed a lot on that board - and there isnt a lot left to get it work. Unfortunately i cant help , because electronics isnt my thing. Nevertheless i subscribed to you a long time ago , because your videos are always satisfying, entertaining, calming, creative and have a very unique style ( and there is also the little bit of hope, i could learn about fixing electronics a bit, by just looking what you do (because a lot of steps in all of those videos seem to be very similar). Anyway ... i just wanted to say: i strongly believe you will fix this nintendo switch some day.
@StazStixFix If you watch the video at 13:16, when you reflowed M92 you moved a tiny component near M92 with your hot air. Did you rechecked and put that back? Maybe it is not related, but could be important.
Stupid crumbly cookie
Sometimes you just need to wait for moon to reappear out of the clouds..😅
If the cookie doesn't crumble, is it really a cookie, though?
ello StezStix, When you measured the connector 5:37 I can clearly see that one pin is missing from that connector. If you watch it closely the sixth pin from the right on the connector. It is a small pin. I would check that.
there was a cap moved when you reflowed the first chip. You even zoomed in on it.
Maryland 🤤
From completely melting the connector to absolutely nailing the reflow on the next one. It's like a masterful soap opera.
I'm glad it's not just me
*masterful solder opera.
Steve, don't use hot air to loosen batteries, especially when you're prying then. Use isopropyl alcohol only.
Steve you should pick up an ultrasonic cleaner for things like this. Also very good for cleaning off heavily fluxed boards.
Took me ages to find one that didn't have horrible/suspicious reviews.
I eventually got a 3ltr one from Allendale Ultrasonics, British brand too (Hertfordshire)
That’s not a bad idea but the frequencies are so high it might damage the board maybe but i dont know
@@yeetboy88YT It's a fairly common practice in the electronic repair industry. There's even specially formulated PCB flux cleaning solutions available for ultrasonic cleaners.
However, there are some components that aren't suited to being immersed. Boards with attached LCD screens shouldn't be submerged for example but generally it's very safe and the results are remarkable.
@@miker13 Just make sure there aren't any MEMS components on there either. Ultrasonic cleaning will destroy those components.
This is a superb video and really shows off both your troubleshooting and soldering skills. How you worked those plastic parts was fantastic, seriously. Total brilliant to watch.
Thanks TSL, I really appreciate that. It took a fair bit of effort, so I'm glad it wasn't for nothing! 👍
You should shine a very bright light at oblique angles on the LCD. If they're on but the backlight is gone, you should still see an image. IMO, what you showed here was that the digitizer was accepting input, not that the LCD was functioning. Love your videos.
Valiant attempt. Some suggestions (pure guesswork on my part). Do a hard reset to check that the brightness wasn't turned down. Check for 17V backlight voltage on the coil to the right (or cap immediately above) of the bga and also on the small cap t immediately above the screen connector on the right. Also check for 3.8V on the cap immediately to the right of the bga. Check the two diodes to the right of the coil. If the 3.8V is present but the 17V isn't check the state of the ribbon cable at both ends.
Incredible effort mate, I have utter faith you'll get it sorted next time 😎😊
Hello StezStix, When you measured the connector 5:37 I can clearly see that one pin is missing from that connector. If you watch it closely the sixth pin from the right on the connector. It is a small pin. I would check that.
saw that too but he replaced that connector
he seems to have saw it in the edit, denoted by him adding the Muppet/puppet popup at that point in the video at 5:50
@@mattsephton Agreed. In the end, I think it is a non factor since the connector was replaced.
Never mind Steve, you can’t win ‘em all. Only thing I remember from Mr Rossmann when it comes to potentially water-damaged gear ... don’t test it by applying power until you have done a full visual inspection. Corrosion gives power the opportunity to go places it was never meant to go! 😀👍
Exactly this. Seeing him plug it in before opening it made me cringe!
I usually use Distilled Vinegar and that clears up corrosion very quickly! :)
Much respect for both your skills and your patience!
Very impressive. You got this switch way further towards a repair than 99% of people would have been able to take it.
I've run into this issue many times. If it's not the backlight IC, it's mostly likely the LCD ribbon connector. You should have at least gotten it under the microscope to see if any of the pins were bent. Those connectors are known to easily go pear-shaped. So check those pins up close!
If I remember correctly, Joey had this issue one time and the screen brightness was just turned down to zero. After adjusting it, the screen was working.
that thing needs and ultra sonic bath in IPA .. so much damage on those small components. That's a tough fix for sure. Nice work, you got this keep trucking.
Would even say it could use a nice little scrubbing with some vinegar prior to that IPA bath.
I came here to also suggest the ultrasonic bath option..@StezStixFix you listening? Lol
You do NOT use an ultrasonic cleaner directly with IPA. That is a recipe for disaster. A ziplock bag with IPA and the component in said bag is the way. Put that in yhe cleaner that has usual water. IPA only is irresponsible and could easily result in an insurance claim for home and property.
Meh, I like to live dangerously. 🤣🤣🤣
Dude! 13:00 ish and you re-flowed the main components without pinging off any little caps or anything! Nice 👍
Nice to see they stayed. SOLID
Stupid ribbon cable connector.
Thank you for posting this adventure - even with an undesirable ending - you kept it real. I just went through a similar battle with a switch lite/liquid damage and lost hours over it. I really appreciate the quality video and the fact that you posted it. Thanks!
Best episode ever!
We can't win them all. And often in life we fail. Then we get up, dust ourselves off and keep going.
Hi StezStix! I am looking you from France! Hi your videos are absolutely brilliant, I love your humor, you make me crazy, my friend. Congratulations to your audio compositions, you really sing, very well, well done!
Nice and fun video as always! It hurts being so close to fix something, but not knowing what to do next. I´m pretty sure you´ll suceed the next time you get to it! You fix almost everything!
Steve, there are no such things as failures. Just learning moments and expensive learning moments. And a professional is someone who made all the mistakes in his field. Just remember that. You can dew it. We believe in you
Emotional damage! 😂
That cought me off guard
SAME! IM DYING LOL
Even though you were not completely successful, this was a a great video to watch. I look forward to you revisiting this.
This video is highly entertaining even though it didn't work out in the end. Keep up the good work!
I bloody love you. New subscriber. I'm actually buying bits to give electronics a go. And hopefully inspire my kids. Thank you for your honesty!
Your choice of music is spectacular ! Thank you sir.
Great job, Steve! It is not a failure yet! My piece of advice should be to not scatter rust around next time tou apply IPA to clean water residue. And if you do, try to dry it asap. Anyway, I’m a complete noob but a big fan of your videos!
Hi. Love watching you fixing stuff. I would highly recommend a glass fibre brush for cleaning corrosion and dirty contacts.
❤❤❤ don't feel bad rest up and try again you're so close
Just wanna say im glad that your Chanel is doing so well! Im been here since like 30-40k followers, keep up the good work and be just you❤🎉
You're crazily persistent. Well done!
Found this guy by accident but he's funny and entertaining, keep it up👍
I'm 10 mins in. If Steve can rescue this it is his best fix ever. Without a doubt. Unfortunately, I think everything is going against him. Let's see. Good video so far.
I love that you show the failed attempts as masterful as successes! You definitely tried 👍💪!
Had to pause this video to make this comment. That homage song to your patrons might be the coolest thing I've ever seen done for a channel's supporters 😂🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
I like that you still posted this. Even though you failed.
Love your tenacity in troubleshooting. Always a good time. :)
Another absolute masterclass of patience. You will succeed once the new connectors arrive.
Hey 11:18 and 13:19 I've noticed a resistor is out of place... around the M92T36 chip. Let us know if repositioning it helps.
Its driving me crazy that he didnt revisit that 🫨
Steve!
As an electronics technician (in my case cell phones), like you, damage due to water exposure to electronic equipment can be very minor or very serious! Sometimes it is quite difficult to get them to work correctly again, and if they do, there are parts that are very resentful.
example, corrosion under bga chips, repairable, but a very delicate job
Your videos and your charm are always refreshing, they are making me smile multiple times per video. Besides the educational things, I really enjoy them 🙂.
And we all do this or sum of us for the love of saving another handheld/console even if it does chew up hours and hours of time. Good to c that u keep it real and show that not all these projects r a success like sum channels do
Great video, I've NO DOUBT that youll fix it in the next one. Good luck.
@ 19:58 - *don't* be tempted to tiddle about with the components: as soon as you see the solder flow, then assuming you have put sufficient flux on the pads before you start, the components will simply "float" into position due to surface tension (as does the battery connector immediately you put it in place). You had it right at 19:46 and then flicked it!
I have been following this process and had the exact same issue as you. I literally copied you in reflowing the chip by the lcd connector... and it worked!! but, alas like you, I also have a black screen.... If you shine a bright light though you can see the switch on. Now to fix the backlight. Please do a revisit soon so I can fix mine too
The foreboding bit made me LOL quite loudly. Quite how the inside got so rusty... looks like it went for a swim. Maybe in the loo. And that wasn't earwax..... *shudders*
🤣🤣 now I hope it really WAS earwax! 😅
Just found your videos. What a great channel and just such really interesting, relaxing and funny content. Thank you!
I would say check the voltage at the display connector at working one and compare it to the broken one and check if you can bridge the missing voltage.
Sometimes taking a break fom a project is the best thing you can do. Especially after so long.
Another very enjoyable and inspirational video…what a bags after all that effort it still didn’t come to full life but considering what you started with the final was a great accomplishment…eat the cookie and enjoy the sweet taste of the success… 👍🏻
VOS got some overtime on this one. Great effort Steve. 👍
Thanks Chris! VOS was invaluable, otherwise this was gonna be impossible to edit. Praise the VOS! 😂
Love these videos. You're a legend 👏
Hope the new year is treating you well. can't wait for your EP to drop. cheers.
Great effort. I bet you get it working. I think I would replace that little BGA chip.
I was checking a couple of hours ago if you published a video. Keeps me company on boring Monday mornings, and theeeere it is.
We are all here to support you and we share your frustration with this stupid game😊
Best part of my week, love your videos! ❤
Nice to see a Beastie Boys ‘Check your Head’ t shirt. Miss those guys so much.
Given one inductor has failed open, what's the betting the one for the backlight boost converter has too...
As others have suggested, get an ultrasonic tank, it's amazing watching the crud float away from a nasty board even if you only use tap water (kind of assuming you live somewhere up in the NW where we've got lovely soft water) then wash down with Isopropyl alcohol and dry off somewhere warm for a good number of hours.
New to your channel. Love your combination of skills and humor. Keep up the great work and thank you!
you have put up a good fight there Steve 👍
You'll get there, we all have faith in your abilities :)
you should measure on the backlight circuit to see if it has any voltages or any shorts to ground. And the backlight ic probably needs replacing anyway
Don't give up! You got this.
It's interesting to see you using the smd291 vs. the 4300 flux. What happened?
Decided to replace the Battery in an old iPad. Stuck down hard, so tried a little manual manipulation. Set off a chain reaction. Threw burning iPad onto the front lawn. Didn’t bother trying to fix it further.
I saw that a resistor came loose when you reflowed the first time. It’s still on the board but with one leg connected.
Ruddy good effort none the less, my man; got to say.
The FACT that it bothers you very much means you will get it working eventually. I know when I am tackling such a project, it hangs with me until I either fix it or destroy it beyond any possibly of repair again... And I usually fix it... I think you will as well!
so so so close , got to be a revisit , love the videos staz
Come on Steve you can do it “ DO NOT GIVE UP “ 😊
don't worry Steve, you will sort it!! Don't give up on the schtupuid games console thing!
we have faith in you steve you'll get it next time.
Smashing job, regardless mate.
Superb video.
New subscriber per Cod3r's suggestion 🙂
Looking forward to new videos!
Giving you a big fat like for all the trouble you went through with this one.. better luck next time! Was a great watch nonetheless.
ever thought of using a ultrasonic toothbrush to clean with? You can chose different firmness bristles for it also.
Hey Steve, this can still be about your connector to the daughter board or the same connector on the daughter board as well. Plug in the flex on both and check all lines for continuititititiy ..u know what I mean :D - the backlight is driven over the flex -> daughter board -> backlight. You are close to it - do the last steps and get it! :)
Steve - nice job... If you cut the bristles on your aid brush down shorter, the bristle become more rigid and make cleaning a mess like this easier. FYI
you have to finish this!! (Awesome vid.)
You just invented the Switch Shuffle! No video but a lot of sounds!
Check the resistor at 10:49 then at 13:36 around M92, did you ever put that back?
Proper tenacity 👍👍
Greetings from Atlanta, Steve! I enjoy your videos a lot, so thanks.
What's the name of the wee puppet fella who's on screen when you're talking in the sped-up bits? Is he from a UK TV show that never made it over?
Could be Gordon the Gopher.
that component you reflowed boosts the voltage from something like 17volt to 40 volt for the back light. (boost IC iirc) also check the diode while your at it.
measure it on the cap. if ok. run a jumper from that cap straight to the fpc connector for the backlight.
also to double check you are getting a image on the LCD. with no backlight shine a torch on the screen you should be able to see the switch menu lock screen
I almost never leave a comment behind anywhere, but cudos to you man for the commitment 💪 i hope the revisit will be succesfull for you!
great video as always but I would avoid using a metal sponger to lift a battery as it could pierce it and cause it to explode or catch on fire as lithium ion battery are very dangerous
Still got that sweet Beastie Boys shirt! 😂 Check your Head is my favorite.
The beastie boys shirt you should be wearing is Sabotage... sometimes you are your own worst enemy 🤣.. I'm sure the next re-vist will be solid 💀
Hi Stez, First you can check if the LCD driver is ok by shining an torch on the LCD screen you should see an picture then you know the LCD driver is ok but the backlight driver is faulty. The backlight driver is a TPS61163 that is responsible for generating the power for the LED's in the LCD screen.
The brightness for the LED's depends on your backlight settings in the console. If the setting is max then the power of max +17V will be generated by this IC at the SW pin and then goes to the backlight connector on the joy-con board.
The brightness is controlled by a PWM signal that comes from the APU also to enable the backlight driver this enable signal comes from the APU. The first 3 pins on the ribbon cable connector on the mainbaord from the left side (border of the PCB) are for the backlight circuit. On one of them you should get max +17V in a good working backlight driver. Gr. Jim
Dang, I hate when it has to get shelved, but it was a great video. I take it we'll be coming back to that out of place capacitor in the next video?
Thanks Infinity! You mean the little resistor I knocked off? If so, I put that back. Or did I miss something else?! 🤔
@@StezStixFix I did see a capacitor that didn't look like it had a connection on one side, I'll go through again, and see if I can put a t.s
@@StezStixFix yup definitely meant the resistor. Alright, cool, I might have missed that.
In the end of the video it really feels like you are really very close to fix that stupid game thing. I think its worth to come back to it at a later point. I think you really fixed a lot on that board - and there isnt a lot left to get it work. Unfortunately i cant help , because electronics isnt my thing. Nevertheless i subscribed to you a long time ago , because your videos are always satisfying, entertaining, calming, creative and have a very unique style ( and there is also the little bit of hope, i could learn about fixing electronics a bit, by just looking what you do (because a lot of steps in all of those videos seem to be very similar).
Anyway ... i just wanted to say: i strongly believe you will fix this nintendo switch some day.
I for one appreciated the Dodgy reference 🤣
IPA and heat always melted the adhesive on stuff well enough for me on Big N stuff.
@StazStixFix If you watch the video at 13:16, when you reflowed M92 you moved a tiny component near M92 with your hot air. Did you rechecked and put that back? Maybe it is not related, but could be important.
I had the same T-shirt once, now I want to it again!
Dig in the beastie, boys shirt, keep up the good work 👏!
Steve, what's the brush you're using between 5:00 and 7:00?
Can't win them all! You rock.🙂