How To Install and Paint Baseboards- It Doesn't Have to Be Difficult!!!
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- Опубликовано: 2 дек 2021
- The Key Tips you need to get professional results installing your own baseboards!
If you have any questions or need further advice please reach out in the comments.
Tools and Materials used in the video:
Paint Brush: amzn.to/3Dqd4FA
Floetrol: amzn.to/3dxUtgx
Drippless Caulking Gun: amzn.to/3rCN5bI
18g Nail Gun: amzn.to/3EoUkHJ
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Paint Brush: amzn.to/3psvbpg
Floetrol: amzn.to/3olyJKY
Drippless Caulking Gun: amzn.to/3pstnwA
18g Nail Gun: amzn.to/3G6FA0G
These are affiliate links, a great way to support the channel!
Thanks for watching!!! 
Хобби
Thanks for making your videos simple enough for someone who isn't an experienced carpenter to understand. I finished baseboards before I saw this video. Thankfully I just saw your caulking video because I have a lot of gaps to caulk. Keep up the awesome work. Subscribed and recommended to friends. Cheers!
*3:50** min....* this is seriously an EXCELLENT tip!!
Finally gave me the courage to nail them in place. They've just been cut, leaning against my walls for months. Thanks!
Glad I could help!
I feel ya, I've got chair rails I want to put up but searching for a "nail-less" way to do it. Also have 1/2" quarter rounds to put down to cover a gap between peel-and-stick vinyl flooring and baseboards but may change flooring so looking for the best temporary solution.
I would have to say that I prefer coping inside joints. Not only does it account for the walls being out of square, but also accounts for them being out of level too.
I like the idea of retuning the baseboard when butting up to tiles! I have always just beveled them. That is something I will try on my next project! Thanks for the videos!
Came to say the same. I find I get tighter corners as well, since I cut it about a tic long on the length and nail it towards the joint.
I don’t care what anyone says, coping always looks better, unless it’s done poorly lol.
Perfect timing I was just about to start baseboards tomorrow! Going to study this video first - thanks for all your tips!
Excellent video. I would like to add, instead of a dry or wet rag to wipe after you run your wet finger on the caulk, I use wipes, any kind will do, they are just wet enough and very smooth, they remove any screw up globs I make...
Absolutely, back in the day when my son was a baby I would always pillage his wet wipes. They were awesome!
Bravissimo! Great carpentry video, though I was missing how to clean it. Thanks for the reminder to use a return at the wall terminus.
Very good video for those who don't know how to cope a corner. I would add that you get better results by starting with a wet brush that has been shaked to remove excess water. It will flow much easier than starting with a dry brush. Also, if your brush gets overloaded and starts to dry out, clean it in water, shake it out, and get back to painting.
I was going a bit crazy with excessive 16 gauge nails....so thanks for the tips here. Dropping down to 18 gauge and making sure I'm just nailing into studs
You're the real MVP!!! 👌🏾👊🏾💯
Great tips that I will use next time! Thanks
Awesome video 👏
Some really usefull tips bud!!!! Thanks again!! Loved the video, have a great weekend👌🍻
Cheers Rushill you have a great weekend as well!
Holy shit!! 🤯🤯🤯🤯I always wondered about the baseboard budding up to tile. Thank you for showing the baseboard returns!! 😭 I’ll be working on baseboards soon so this is so helpful!
Excellent tips
Unrelated, but wondering. Any easy fixes for nail pops? Would love to see a video.
I watched the whole video , i know what it feels like to try to make content on video its not easy , thanks for the help!
Great tips! Thank you!
Just had the chance to try DAP Alex Ultra, which is extra low shrinkage painter’s caulk, caulking trim at my parents house after installing LVP flooring in Master bed and bath. Not as elastic when dry, but nail holes disappeared in one pass.
I used Dynaflex on the bathroom trim to wall interface, for it’s better adhesion, elasticity and waterproofing, and had to do a second pass to get rid of the “dip” from the caulk drying. Also did a tiny bead of clear dynaflex ultra at the base of the trim in the bath, to keep any water on the floor from soaking up underneath.
Nice, sounds like you’ve done a top notch job!
Glad to say I use the same methods as you, except for the bottom of bathroom baseboards. I tape off the floor, put a small bead of dynaflex to seal it, wait an hour or so and put a coat of paint there with the tape still installed. I put the tape very close to the baseboard, about 1/32”, so as not to leave a bead that sticks out onto the floor.
Great video!
Thanks Ana, hopefully something helpful for the future!
Great tips , I'm getting ready to do our base boards . I've put them off long enough.
Best wishes on the job Eli!
Thanks!
Thanks, really helpful video
You're welcome! Thank you
Good stuff.
Thanks.
Thanks Shawn
Thank u sir!
your videos are super informative! I've been working full time as a finish carpenter for the last 7 months after running a landscape construction business for many years and feel fairly proficient at hanging doors, installing trim. But there are still those aggravating details especially with installing base where it can be hard to get the miters perfect. This video adresses a lot of my issues, thank you!
One thing I do a little different with cutting is instead of making multiple plunging cuts into the material until I reach my mark, I'll just slightly lower the spinning blade into the material and then slide the material until the cut reaches my line. This way I won't risk moving the material too much in between test cuts, does that make sense?
Very nice 👍 I'm gonna try the not nailing my corners next time .💥I'm sure this would work for crown as well
With crown it’s best to always nail the corners. You can use shims to hold it out from the wall a bit to get a better fit.
I've never used that paint adative! That would be awesome. Great tip! You don't like 1/4 round? I like the look but some people don't.
Not a fan of 1/4 round.
Suggestions on how to install bathroom baseboards around the toilet inlet? my baseboards are taller than the inlet on the wall. do people just notch out the half circle of the pipe?
Best baseboard video out there. Thanks for the great video.
Thanks mate
Im going to buy some trim paint for rimed baseboards and some primed mdf risers. Where do you buy Cloverdale paint? Is there any brainteasers from big box you recommend?
We're putting baseboards on at the bottom of some very old, essentially permanent, fancy moulding type stuff that will need to be painted and we aren't going to be able to remove. Do you think it's still worthwhile to paint the new baseboards before nailing them on if we have to go over the old stuff anyways?
What if the pre primed baseboards purchased has slightly raised bumps, bulges, and ridges, do you sand down those first, then paint?
What is the dimension if the baseboard shown @0:19? Can you share some suggestions of how to choose the baseboard for a mid size room?
What do you recommend for joining baseboards on runs that are longer than the baseboard raw material?
Hey you need to do a hanging install a door Ina bedroom or bathroom
Questions: what
Great tips 😎🛠️😎🛠️😎
Thanks Ted
So what do you use on the inside corner if your using stain grade trim?
I’d cope that joint, and then If need be some wood filler that is a close match to the type of wood.
Everything has to be difficult!!! Judging by doing anything with 13 year old niece and 17 year old nephew, if it's not difficult, it is very necessary to make it difficult. Just makes things more rewarding I guess
I'm in New England...we cope our inside corners
What do you think the main advantage of coping is?
@@ghostfive7119 🍻 thanks for checking out the vid:)
@@TheFunnyCarpenter I would say a coped butt joint won't open up like a mitre has the potential to
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Back when I stated the trendy style was stained oak or maple trim, we didn't have caulk and paint to hide (and I don't mean that in a bad way) imperfect joints, coping was the way to go, also carpeting was much more common and if you didn't nail the corners securely the carpet installers could push your joints all over the place, same with using only one nail per stud along the rest of the base board, if the drywall is missing or tapered and you didn't shim and nail it at the bottom and the top the carpet stretchers could push in the bottom and open up the top.
The first time I tried installing baseboards, I did not have a compressor and a nail gun. Impossible! Needless to say, I got a new compressor and nail gun out of the deal.
How did people do it before all the fancy tools?
Multi master? U fancy.
You don't paint the top sealant joint ???
You clearly know what you're doing and the advice is solid and has helped me a lot... But, honestly, I'd be lying if I said that, at first, the magnificent beard wasn't a huge part of the reason why I believed what you said.
Slightly off topic but does Flotrol have a shelf life?
Some good stuff here.
I do find the opposite of your technique of marking the face works better for me though. Instead of putting a short piece into an inside corner "so you can measure and mark the face", if you do the opposite, and measure and mark the longest point, you won't have to 'sneak up on the mark' by making multiple cuts. The mark is then on the top/back of the material and the blade/laser easily set to the mark.
My baseboards are completely rectangular, except for a small round over on the top outside edge. What should I do about the inside corners? Coping doesn’t make much sense because there isn’t a profile per se. Could I just make butt joints at each corner or would that look stupid? Should I do miters instead?
I would do butt joints. You could even cut the butting peace with a slight angle to ensure a tight fit on the face.
Great video as always
I always cope inside corners so I don't have to worry with angles
Definitely a great way to go. I don’t often cope unless it come to matching different profiles into other mouldings, and then it’s more of a custom fit type situation.
Are there any particular tips for installing baseboards on top of an existing carpet?
Nothing too specific, just prepainting and keeping the nails up away from the carpet will be crucial.
Step 1.a
Remove & discard carpet. Continue to step 1.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Thanks 👍
Oh hey are you In BC, more specifically the Lower Mainland? The Cloverdale paint is kinda making me think so…
Fraser Valley
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Langley myself! Awesome seeing another creator from Vancouver on here! Keep it up dude!
Oh yeah, and have a Kapex!
Stay tuned next week for the baseboard challenge Kapex vs Ryobi vs Handsaw!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter sounds good. I haven’t used a Kapex, but I want one. The nice thing about not having one is that is the work isn’t perfect I can blame my saw. If I had a Kapex, I’m not sure what I would blame, but definitely not myself!
What stud finder is that?
Franklin 710
Hello- we watch all of your videos for diy. My wife recently painted our baseboards and they are randomly chipping. Please help
Sometimes the old baseboards could have grease or dirt on them, cleaning them before paint will help.
We sprayed new baseboards with two coats of paint. How do we fill in the holes ? I’m nervous it will be a different finish now after we hang it
That's a tough one. Usually if you spray two coats and then instal, a painter would brush or roll a 3rd coat. I will never look as good as a spayed finish but can look pretty good. You could try and fill the nail hole with Dryden and then instead of sanding wipe them flush with a damp paper towel, then touch them up with a model paint brush. Try a couple things out, it's hard to say not knowing the type of paint and sheen level.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter thank you for the response. So I still need to paint the ceiling and walls so maybe we hang them, and then do another coat of spray after they are installed ? And then paint the walls and ceiling? What order would you go in ?
If you were going to do a third spray coat after install you might as well have installed them first and then do all the painting. The only reason you would paint before install is if you're not doing the walls as well. In your case, I would do ceiling, trim, then walls.
I work in the building trades, I don’t think I’ve ever seen a trim carpenter miter inside corners rather than cope
That’s interesting, what part of the world are you working in?
@@TheFunnyCarpenter all copes here in NH, mostly primed FJ ³-1/2"
In Atlanta, there's a whole lot of mitering going on
There is a reason you cope an inside corner. When you nail a mitered corner, the joint opens up. A coped corner can apply pressure to tighten the joint. A true craftsman will not rely on caulking.
@@johnwidell8092sure it looks a tiny bit better, but you can just shim your mitered corners, and that's way faster than coping. I think the payoff for coping just isn't enough.
Can't we just go straight to Step 5 and forget the first 4?
Very helpful video, though.
😂yes, but then the baseboards will just be sitting there laughing at you!
Wait?? You don’t paint the caulk on the top edge?? Is that really an option?? If so it would save a lot of work 🤔
It’s definitely better to paint the top edge, but if you have a thin bead of caulk on there that’s not painted it’s not a huge deal. Dap dynaflex will hold up nicely in my opinion.
It’s worth painting. You’ll notice non-painted caulk shows dirt easier and is more difficult to clean
@@andrewmalack102 Yeah, that makes sense and it would drive me crazy. Thanks!
Be careful adding water to paint it changes the finish and color. Using Flolitrol is preferable as it conditions and does not thin the paint or affect the finish.
While I am not a professional I've owned a few houses and watered down paint on many occasions and never noticed a color or sheen difference.
At which point do I pound on the baseboards with a piece of broken concrete? Asking for a friend..
Step 6… 😂
@@TheFunnyCarpenter noted. Thank you 😁
People over look to verify the miter saw
Why would you mitre inside corners instead of coping them?
I’ve always just mitred the inside corners because it’s quicker, and I’ve always been happy with the results.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter do you do it with stained trim too?🤢
@@ghostfive7119obviously not.
But for painted baseboard, you can get mitered looking pretty tight with shimming. It's faster and to be honest no one will notice the difference.
Don’t you have to sand the boards before you paint. I 🤔
Sand pre primed baseboards? No.
Perfect, we’re moving and there are no baseboards in the house we bought.
Let me know if u need to borrow any tools. Lol I’ll follow you around with my camera😂
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Well we're moving to Prince George so if you're up for the commute...
I like your videos and you are funny but you need a better name!
Do have any suggestions?
@@TheFunnyCarpenter I'm not a trolle so I hope you aren't attended. You know your stuff so maybe it's just me. But I will get back when I come up with a few zingers.
@@gar5685 that’s cool, I appreciate the feedback. The other name I thought of was the fairly clever carpenter. I went with funny carpenter because it seems pretty memorable.
@The Funny Carpenter You’re right.
Your eyes move a lot
You call that scribbling "super accurate???? Bwahaha. Try a sharp pencil or a utility knife and make a simple crows foot. Don't scribble unless you do it with a crayon. That's still be more accurate than what you did.
Nah
With trim molding being so expensive (thanks to Joe Biden), can one just use 1x4s as baseboard and even for casing around the windows? It would be super cheap, no? I just watched another video of carpenter woman Shara using 1x4's. It seemed easy and very low cost.
Worst painting advice ever!!!! Stick to building. As a professional painter it’s upsetting to see such poor advice that will cause heartache when it fails in a couple of years. Install, sand chalk and fill, sand again and then Use primer! And then paint!!!!
I’ve seen thousands of feet of baseboard installed like this. It’s a good method.