My grand father taught me a trick with heads and intakes. If you will take some all-thread rod and cut it so that you can screw them into the corner bold holds on heads or intakes you can align the head/intake and it drops right into place without moving the gasket out of place. Then you just take out the all thread and put the bolts in place.
Yes my dad Showed me that trick back in the mid 1960's when I was rebuilding My 1966 289! I also use the same method to install the transmission, so I don't have to fight input shaft alignment.
No doubt, their heavier when compared to the aluminum version. However, try picking up a Iron BBC cylinder or an iron Chrysler Hemi cylinder head you find those iron windsor cylinder heads to be light as a feather! Great job on the video!
My 1996 Explorer has F3ZE heads on it i have looked at a bunch of Wrecking yard 1996 explorers and have never seen on with the F1ZE castings. i know they exist but I have never in 10 years of wrecking yard search seen one. The only difference between My Explorer heads, and the Cobra heads is the Cobra heads have been milled .020 to get the lower the Chamber CC's.
Just came across your video, question i have a set of gt40 3 bar heads but just wondering if the heads will work with stock rotating assembly from my 1992 foxbody GT? Many people say the piston can hit the valves/heads? They mention to use clay to check clearence? Not sure how that works? But my goal is simple heads cam intake plus FBO i already hand ported a set of GT40 upper and lower intake manifold that i had stored away for a while. If you can get back to me that would be awesome
Hello. 100% the GT40 heads will work with your stock rotating assembly. Just be careful of your cam choice when you make that change. That will affect piston to valve clearance. For reference, I’m running a mild/aggressive cam in my set up and the GT40s work just fine. There’s really no difference in clearance between the stock E7 heads and the GT40s. The GT 40s have larger valves and that’s it. Profile is the same. 🤙
Hmm….man I wish I could remember in the moment, but unfortunately I don’t. If the bolts are looking bad, I’d change them. ARP and Ford performance both sell replacements. Otherwise, grab a tap and die set and you’ll find one that works. Sorry couldn’t be of more help. Thanks for the question!
I’m using BBK long tubes. They are no different than the ones in the catalog. These are GT40 heads. The P models sometimes have header clearance issues due to the angle of the plug as you mentioned. Thanks for the question!
Hello. I’ve never had it on the dyno, so I can’t say. Seat of the pants feel would have me estimate 20-30hp. It’s a noticeable difference, but won’t knock your socks off. Hell of a lot cheaper than top shelf aluminum heads, but you do get what you pay for. Don’t get me wrong, they’re great, you just can’t expect big power gains.
Older video but came across your channel. Great content. Bought my dream car a few years ago. 1990 foxbody. What's your opinion on trickflow stage 1 camshaft and still using factory stamp steel rockers? I have all the other bolt on. Headers, intake, throttle body, full exhaust etc. Stock e7 heads. It's not in the budget for roller rockers. Not looking for serious power just a daily driver. Thanks in advance
Hello. Congrats on the car! The stage 1 cam should work perfectly fine with the stock rockers. Unless the manufacturer suggests rollers or a different mounting style, the stockers will work just fine. I’ve got GT40 heads and a more aggressive cam than the one you’re considering and they works great. Thanks for the question and have fun with the car!
@@FastFixRUclips Thanks. I figured. I also have a smaller 3/8 drive tq wrench that fits. Try that with 3/8 to half inch adapter. Engine out was alot more fun!
@@tays8306 haha, totally agree. Easier and more fun on the way out. I think I used a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter too...sucks I can’t remember something I did not even a year ago...ahh well. Best of luck going forward!
@@FastFixRUclips Thanks. I re gasketed the whole thing cause it was leaking oil...from everywhere. It seems to be heating the coolant up bad. Head gaskets on the right way...same water pump as I had last summer. Have to make sure the heads are okay and have them magnafluxed and skimmed. head gasket leak into water jacket somehow....copper coat next time to make sure.
Oh man, that sounds like a pain in the arse. I had overheating is issues with this motor and I discovered the fan clutch was the culprit. Of course I replaced everything else before figuring out the bad part 🤦♂️. Regarding the heads, make sure you’re using a thread sealer for the bolts that enter the water jackets. There’s a specific thread sealer used to seal head bolts/studs that thread into water jackets. Not sure if that’s your problem or if you already knew that, but might as well offer it up as a solution. Good luck 👍
Great content, can I directly bolt on a set of 3 bar without changing springs as I know gt 40ps due require springs I have a set of 3 bar painted them I am just going to bolt them up ,it does have stock cam thanks
Yeah great vids you're GT40 video help me with my swap. I got a set of 430 gears going complete with 28 mt tires iam hoping to drive it in the 12s this yr. Once again thank you for responding.
Hello. I’m not 100% sure on this, but I’d say any year would work. However, you’ll need to make sure your pushrods are the same length. Also, how are the rocker arms connected? GT40s are bolt down while older engines had stud mounts. Just a Few things to consider when doing your research. Best of luck!
@@FastFixRUclips goddamn I got a lot to learn I’m so excited I feel like I’m gonna be the last of generation so I’m tryna go out with a boom before they have use driving these electric terds
Rey Parra there’s a really good comparison between GT40 and GT40P heads on this site: www.americanmuscle.com/cylinder-head-upgrades.html I like the GT40s because it keeps the spark plugs in the stock location. Plus, the GT40Ps have very weak valve springs and you are required to change them is using on a mustang. Even with a stick cam.
@@FastFixRUclips I can confirm. I looked last night I have a set if F3ZE AA code with no thermactor holes and they were off 96 explorer, also was reading ford had cobra and lightning heads laying around and used them up as svt didn't sell as expected go figure.. lol
Would you be able to tell me what rocker stud kit you bought. I'm having the hardest time finding the right ones. Been thru 2 different sets from Summit and they were both the wrong size.
Hello. I used the Ford factory parts, so didn’t buy a stud kit. Whatever was on the head is what I used. Sorry I can’t be of more help on this question.
Hello! Copper spray, huh? I’ve not heard of that, but it sounds like a good idea. I’m opening up that motor in the next few months and will do that when reinstalling. Good tip, thanks!
They’re from an Explorer. The code on them tells the story. Explorers came with both 4-bar GT40p and “cobra” 3-bar GT40 heads. It’d be cool if they were, but no one would ever know the difference unless they unbolted them and read the code.
I’ve been using Fram filters since I was 16. Never had a problem on any of my cars. Nor have I ever heard of anyone having a problem in my immediate car community. I think the fram hate is just rumors or instances of failure that have taken a life of their own. It’s definitely not sad. I have no intentions of changing what’s worked for over 26 years for me.
Why would you put gt 40 heads on a 30 over motor? U restricting hp big time.. Those heads just for stock bottom end 302..aluminum aftermarket better flowing heads is what u need. U bottle necking that motor unless u don't care about real hp
Money doesn’t grow on trees and the GT40 heads I used fit my budget. Not to mention I use N20, so the real power this motor makes is with nitrous. .30 over is hardly a reason to use aluminum heads. This displacement increase is negligible and doesn’t necessitate aluminum heads. I take your point that higher flowing aluminum heads would be better, but I also confront this in the video. I said aluminum heads would be better, but bang for the buck the GT40s performed a lot better than the factory E3s which is 100% accurate. And this motor is a stock bottom end. Nothing built about the bottom end at all. Not sure what you mean there... so yes, I care about “real” hp, but I’m not going to spend 2k or more on heads for a motor that can’t make 500hp without walking the crank. That will come when I build an engine that can handle making big horsepower reliably. Thanks for the comment.
just remeber I am not traying to discredit anyone but when ever you swap freshly rebuild head on a used motor your adding compression dose your ganna have a bunch of blowby the ring are weak your ganna start to have problom youre better off rebuilding the motor on my 351w for me a rul of thumb i torque my jt40p at 100
No man, all comments are welcome as long as people don’t act like a-holes. I planned on a slight bump in compression, but it’s negligible on this application. Also, the motor was just rebuilt 5k miles prior to the heads going on. Have a good one!
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
I wish I found this video weeks ago! Thank you, so much! It’s hard to find super descriptive videos. I can’t wait to watch your next ones!
Awesome! Happy to hear this helped you! Got more coming out soon 👍
My grand father taught me a trick with heads and intakes. If you will take some all-thread rod and cut it so that you can screw them into the corner bold holds on heads or intakes you can align the head/intake and it drops right into place without moving the gasket out of place. Then you just take out the all thread and put the bolts in place.
Tricks like that are priceless. The old timers have the knowledge, that’s for sure. Thank you for sharing 👍
Yes my dad Showed me that trick back in the mid 1960's when I was rebuilding My 1966 289! I also use the same method to install the transmission, so I don't have to fight input shaft alignment.
I'm gonna be building a 1967 mustang this was a huge help thank you
You are welcome! Have fun with the 67!
For sure I can't wait for the weather to finally be nice enough for me to get out in the garage
oh man I'm doing the same job... you are a life saver brother.. thank u for this video
You bet! Heads made a seat of the pants different. Of course I’m used to it now, but it’s worth it. 👍
did you drained all the coolant from water jackets before installing the studs?
Yes sir! For sure do that. Won’t seal otherwise.
It looks like the acc plugs are already installed in the thermocator bore orifice. you can tell by the notch in the thread inserts at that location.
No doubt, their heavier when compared to the aluminum version.
However, try picking up a Iron BBC cylinder or an iron Chrysler Hemi cylinder head you find those iron windsor cylinder heads to be light as a feather!
Great job on the video!
lol, I bet so! Never lifted a big block head and I’d imagine it’s hernia inducing 😂 good stuff man, thanks for the comment!
My 1996 Explorer has F3ZE heads on it i have looked at a bunch of Wrecking yard 1996 explorers and have never seen on with the F1ZE castings. i know they exist but I have never in 10 years of wrecking yard search seen one. The only difference between My Explorer heads, and the Cobra heads is the Cobra heads have been milled .020 to get the lower the Chamber CC's.
Interesting! That’s pretty crazy!
Good vedio..now I have to see what my heads are.
Cool!
Great video man keep it up. I think z in the part number means mustang. I’ll have to check it out thank you!
I’m not certain, but that sounds right. Glad you liked the video! I appreciate the positive comment 👍
Just came across your video, question i have a set of gt40 3 bar heads but just wondering if the heads will work with stock rotating assembly from my 1992 foxbody GT? Many people say the piston can hit the valves/heads? They mention to use clay to check clearence? Not sure how that works? But my goal is simple heads cam intake plus FBO i already hand ported a set of GT40 upper and lower intake manifold that i had stored away for a while. If you can get back to me that would be awesome
Hello. 100% the GT40 heads will work with your stock rotating assembly. Just be careful of your cam choice when you make that change. That will affect piston to valve clearance. For reference, I’m running a mild/aggressive cam in my set up and the GT40s work just fine. There’s really no difference in clearance between the stock E7 heads and the GT40s. The GT 40s have larger valves and that’s it. Profile is the same. 🤙
Are the valves the same size on the E70 heads and GT-40p heads?
Hello. Great question! No, they are not the same:
87-95 Stock E7TE Valve Size Intake - 1.78, Intake Ports Flow @ 124cc
87-95 Stock E7TE Valve Size Exhaust - 1.45
GT-40P Valve Size Intake - 1.84, Intake Ports Flow @ 185cc
GT-40P Valve Size Exhaust - 1.46
59cc Combustion Chambers/61cc Combustion Chambers (depends on model)
Thanks for the question!
Did you use the factory springs from gt40 heads or did you replace them with old/new ones? I've heard it's recommended for explorer gt40 head swaps
100% new springs to match the cam
Awesome video man just pulled my upper intake off most of the bolts looked nasty what size thread chaser did you use for them?
Hmm….man I wish I could remember in the moment, but unfortunately I don’t. If the bolts are looking bad, I’d change them. ARP and Ford performance both sell replacements. Otherwise, grab a tap and die set and you’ll find one that works. Sorry couldn’t be of more help. Thanks for the question!
What headers are you using , I here the spark plugs are at a different angle and some people cut and fab there headers.
I’m using BBK long tubes. They are no different than the ones in the catalog. These are GT40 heads. The P models sometimes have header clearance issues due to the angle of the plug as you mentioned. Thanks for the question!
Curious what size pushrods you used with the 303 cam and gt40 3 bar combo? Appreciate that good video.
Hello. They’re the factory length pushrods, but hardened. I don’t remember exactly the model, but from Ford Performance. Thanks for the question.
hey man great video, how much power /torque did u gain after installing these? was it worth it? i am debating if i should put these on
Hello. I’ve never had it on the dyno, so I can’t say. Seat of the pants feel would have me estimate 20-30hp. It’s a noticeable difference, but won’t knock your socks off. Hell of a lot cheaper than top shelf aluminum heads, but you do get what you pay for. Don’t get me wrong, they’re great, you just can’t expect big power gains.
Older video but came across your channel. Great content. Bought my dream car a few years ago. 1990 foxbody. What's your opinion on trickflow stage 1 camshaft and still using factory stamp steel rockers? I have all the other bolt on. Headers, intake, throttle body, full exhaust etc. Stock e7 heads. It's not in the budget for roller rockers. Not looking for serious power just a daily driver. Thanks in advance
Hello. Congrats on the car! The stage 1 cam should work perfectly fine with the stock rockers. Unless the manufacturer suggests rollers or a different mounting style, the stockers will work just fine. I’ve got GT40 heads and a more aggressive cam than the one you’re considering and they works great. Thanks for the question and have fun with the car!
@@FastFixRUclips thanks for the info. I'll probably still check ptv clearance but good to know others have used factory rocker arms.
How exactly do you get a torque wrench on the back stud near brake booster?
Hello. Pretty sure I used a swivel socket for that one. Not ideal when it comes to accurate torque setting, but no other choice.
@@FastFixRUclips
Thanks. I figured. I also have a smaller 3/8 drive tq wrench that fits. Try that with 3/8 to half inch adapter.
Engine out was alot more fun!
@@tays8306 haha, totally agree. Easier and more fun on the way out. I think I used a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter too...sucks I can’t remember something I did not even a year ago...ahh well. Best of luck going forward!
@@FastFixRUclips
Thanks. I re gasketed the whole thing cause it was leaking oil...from everywhere. It seems to be heating the coolant up bad. Head gaskets on the right way...same water pump as I had last summer. Have to make sure the heads are okay and have them magnafluxed and skimmed. head gasket leak into water jacket somehow....copper coat next time to make sure.
Oh man, that sounds like a pain in the arse. I had overheating is issues with this motor and I discovered the fan clutch was the culprit. Of course I replaced everything else before figuring out the bad part 🤦♂️.
Regarding the heads, make sure you’re using a thread sealer for the bolts that enter the water jackets. There’s a specific thread sealer used to seal head bolts/studs that thread into water jackets. Not sure if that’s your problem or if you already knew that, but might as well offer it up as a solution. Good luck 👍
What about the gt40p’s that have F77E ingrained on them?
That code is for 1997+ explorer or Mountaineer GT40P heads
@@FastFixRUclips will they still fit my stock 302? Is there anything i have to do for them to be able to go together?
Yep. They’ll fit. I’ll send you a link with more info on those specific heads.
Here’s the link. Should have everything you need to get the GT40Ps to work on your 302.
lmr.com/products/what-are-gt40-heads-mustang
Do you still have them on the car?How do the GT40 heads run?
Yes, still do. They’ve been a great improvement, but I’m used to them now, so time to upgrade once again.
Can i install this heads without the roller?s, its a 1980 302 engine
You mean without roller lifters? No…the cam requires it.
The thread chaser is $13.33 from McMaster-Carr!
Great content, can I directly bolt on a set of 3 bar without changing springs as I know gt 40ps due require springs I have a set of 3 bar painted them I am just going to bolt them up
,it does have stock cam thanks
Yes, that should be just fine. As long as you’re running a stock cam (as you said), gtg. Thanks for the comment 👍
Yeah great vids you're GT40 video help me with my swap. I got a set of 430 gears going complete with 28 mt tires iam hoping to drive it in the 12s this yr. Once again thank you for responding.
You bet! Best of luck
What’s the latest year gt40 heads I can use , on a 1985 gt
Hello. I’m not 100% sure on this, but I’d say any year would work. However, you’ll need to make sure your pushrods are the same length. Also, how are the rocker arms connected? GT40s are bolt down while older engines had stud mounts. Just a Few things to consider when doing your research. Best of luck!
@@FastFixRUclips goddamn I got a lot to learn I’m so excited I feel like I’m gonna be the last of generation so I’m tryna go out with a boom before they have use driving these electric terds
Bro what gasket do i order my is an 88gt 5.0 when i get gt40 heads
Hey there. The gasket I used on my build will work on yours. It’s linked in the description.
Thanks mine a 88 5.0 doingt no p heads you think ps are better thanks bro
Rey Parra there’s a really good comparison between GT40 and GT40P heads on this site: www.americanmuscle.com/cylinder-head-upgrades.html
I like the GT40s because it keeps the spark plugs in the stock location. Plus, the GT40Ps have very weak valve springs and you are required to change them is using on a mustang. Even with a stick cam.
F3ze aa did they all have thermactor holes?
I don’t think so, but I’m not sure. I’ve read different opinions and haven’t found a definite source of accuracy.
@@FastFixRUclips I can confirm. I looked last night I have a set if F3ZE AA code with no thermactor holes and they were off 96 explorer, also was reading ford had cobra and lightning heads laying around and used them up as svt didn't sell as expected go figure.. lol
Interesting! Thanks for the info 👍 appreciated.
Pushrod length?
Hello. The pushrods were factory. Unsure of their factory length.
Would you be able to tell me what rocker stud kit you bought. I'm having the hardest time finding the right ones. Been thru 2 different sets from Summit and they were both the wrong size.
Hello. I used the Ford factory parts, so didn’t buy a stud kit. Whatever was on the head is what I used. Sorry I can’t be of more help on this question.
@@FastFixRUclips no problem, thanks for replying
Study your head.....smh funny shyt....why would you not...gr8 info bro...car sounds amazing subscribd instantly...
Great
Brother please copper spray them head gaskets they are a paper style and do not melt to the head like the silver ones
Hello! Copper spray, huh? I’ve not heard of that, but it sounds like a good idea. I’m opening up that motor in the next few months and will do that when reinstalling. Good tip, thanks!
I'm pretty sure those are true cobra gt40 heads they have 3 bars. Explorer gt40p heads have 4 bars.
They’re from an Explorer. The code on them tells the story. Explorers came with both 4-bar GT40p and “cobra” 3-bar GT40 heads. It’d be cool if they were, but no one would ever know the difference unless they unbolted them and read the code.
@@FastFixRUclips Do they have a "GT" stamped on the front corner?
Just a word of advice. Be careful with scotchbrite on any steel/cast machined surface. It will remove metals.
Excellent advice and definitely something to keep in mind. Thanks for the comment!
you really need to do something with that frame filter. soo sad to see that....................................................
I’ve been using Fram filters since I was 16. Never had a problem on any of my cars. Nor have I ever heard of anyone having a problem in my immediate car community. I think the fram hate is just rumors or instances of failure that have taken a life of their own. It’s definitely not sad. I have no intentions of changing what’s worked for over 26 years for me.
F1 is a 1991 head. F3 is a 1993 head.
Nice. Good info 👍
Why would you put gt 40 heads on a 30 over motor? U restricting hp big time.. Those heads just for stock bottom end 302..aluminum aftermarket better flowing heads is what u need. U bottle necking that motor unless u don't care about real hp
Money doesn’t grow on trees and the GT40 heads I used fit my budget. Not to mention I use N20, so the real power this motor makes is with nitrous. .30 over is hardly a reason to use aluminum heads. This displacement increase is negligible and doesn’t necessitate aluminum heads. I take your point that higher flowing aluminum heads would be better, but I also confront this in the video. I said aluminum heads would be better, but bang for the buck the GT40s performed a lot better than the factory E3s which is 100% accurate. And this motor is a stock bottom end. Nothing built about the bottom end at all. Not sure what you mean there... so yes, I care about “real” hp, but I’m not going to spend 2k or more on heads for a motor that can’t make 500hp without walking the crank. That will come when I build an engine that can handle making big horsepower reliably. Thanks for the comment.
just remeber I am not traying to discredit anyone but when ever you swap freshly rebuild head on a used motor your adding compression dose your ganna have a bunch of blowby the ring are weak your ganna start to have problom youre better off rebuilding the motor on my 351w for me a rul of thumb i torque my jt40p at 100
No man, all comments are welcome as long as people don’t act like a-holes. I planned on a slight bump in compression, but it’s negligible on this application. Also, the motor was just rebuilt 5k miles prior to the heads going on. Have a good one!