Im a framer. Whatever you guys do always, always use poly barrier for the bottom plate. You never just slap the plate to the floor like what he did. Also, plz dont put your plate and walls tight to the wall. Leave at least 1" in the bottom. Vapor barrier is also missing in the walls. Use a laser to make your framing easier, when marking the top plate. Or what you can do is measure a stud for each end and lift your top plate and level it from there. Once you have it level, mark your first stud at 15 1/4" and then from there every 16" o.c. Hope this helps you do it correctly and like a pro.
Thanks @mark Harris for your reply. I just want to make sure your builds last long and wont damage your materials. It takes time, money and effort to build. So whatever we can do to protect your investment goes along way. Happy framing!
Ruben P Hello, I have a question for you since you seem so knowledgable on the subject. I am currently building a small workshop in my 2 car garage and wanted to frame one wall so it would be easier to store tools or do a bench cleat system. I've held off cause someone recently told me that I should drill through my block wall, cause its a foundation wall and has nothing but dirt on the other side and water will come through. It didn't seem right to me, but I don't do framing and I cant seem to find any answers to my question online. Any advice you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
My garage on the inside is completely empty. No electric, no finishing whatsoever. Concrete floor with a drain in the middle, 4 windows that desperately need replaced, and block walls. It's a 30x30 garage about 15 ft high. My 3 garage doors are 9' wide x 10' tall. Where do I start on finishing this? Should I do framing, insulating first then windows? Trying to figure out what order to do things in because I need to replace the 4 windows and man door at some point. Also, should I do anything with the floor at all? I will be parking my cars in there eventually once I get new garage doors with motors. Really just for parking cars and a storage space
I'm assuming you're going to be putting insulation in that wall - so question is why no barrier between the cinder blocks and the framing? I would have assumed that would be put in while framing it and don't see any here. Letting the insulation rest directly on the cinder blocks or even touch the cinder blocks at any point is basically a guarantee of future mold growth at that spot - so there must be something I'm missing?
Tinfoilnation wonder if he put foam in-between just cut it to shape and then chalk around to close gaps. But yes maybe a tyvek material at least would be smart ?!
the vapor barrier usually goes on the inside so the building can breath, you do not want the moisture to be trapped in between the outside and the inside. i chose for the inside to be dry and the outside to breath.
After some research pressure treated is not recommended because it tends to bow as it ageing because there pressure treated chemical dries out. Also pressure treated lumber is toxic and releases VOC.
You use pressure treated on the floor/ceiling where they make contract with concrete. Nothing else should touch the wall. Should be at least 1" away to begin with. This wouldn't meet code in Kansas, for a basement or garage. 1 inch foam board was used in between studs in our basement and foam spray to fill gaps.
Hi there, I am Looking for paint to use to seal the same walls from condensation for my garage conversation. May I ask do I need to fill any holes first, do I need a primer before this paint and what would you recommend? Would o need to apply any on the flooring as well before installing installation and flooring? Thanks for your advice
Thank you for the vid! I have a question if you don't mind. I was just getting ready to frame one side of my garage wall, when someone told me that drilling into my block wall will cause damage, since its a foundation wall with nothing but dirt on the other side. Is this true?? Thanks!
I'm a new home owner but I'd really like to start doing some home improvement/projects. My basement floor is all cement but its very uneven so I'm assuming I'd need to sand and level this all out first? Or is there a way to fill in the lower parts to make everything even? Thanks!
its often not fully plum/square in basements. sometimes necessary to cut each stud one by one maybe a tad longer than what it should be, see how they fit and trim them down when needed
@@Blake-dw8ou Thanks. I did 1 wall yesterday which was 12x8 in a bed room. The local lumber store had really twisted boards so Im waiting on new delivery. Thanks
You said you leave a half inch Gap on the baseboard but then your first Neil you tap the wood right up against the wall? Where is the half inch Gap? Or is that Gap only for the the wall that is exposed to the outside
What happened to the barrier on the floor you never put wood directly on and concrete that a no no and 1” away from the wall really to much handy manny here
@@davidfrisch5538 It doesn't mater if it's above ground or not, concrete is porous and won't dry until we're all dead. Even on concrete homes they do this for the entire structure, even a second floor. If the concrete is exposed, there is usually is a barrier on the outside or in-between the concrete pour.
What about the top plate? Most videos I’ve seen they build the wall on the floor then raise it. I like the vid, but you don’t even mention how you connected the top plate up there. That’s important for someone like me who is basically learning this from scratch.
@@sergeydukman5832 I don’t feel like rewatching the video but for starters he didn’t put a poly barrier between the baseplate and the concrete. Pressure treated or not you really want to avoid direct contact with the cement since it will wick moisture.
I'm always amazed how many people don't wear eye protection when driving nails, screws, using saws, etc. Good work, but wear eye protection for the love of God.
whiners, wimps, and lack of common sense created OSHA...I still operate my machines without gaurds, yellow hand rails, and sometimes weld without a helmet and grind without a shield...not everyone is a compliant little idiot
Until you asshats have had an eye injury, you'll continue to be morons. Good for you. Here's wishing the experience of an eye injury to those who call names, all the while making comments that prove a low IQ.
wow! strongly disagree with this build. A little tip, build your stud wall laying flat on the floor, then raise it up before you start gluing and shooting the footplate into the concrete.
Im a framer. Whatever you guys do always, always use poly barrier for the bottom plate. You never just slap the plate to the floor like what he did. Also, plz dont put your plate and walls tight to the wall. Leave at least 1" in the bottom. Vapor barrier is also missing in the walls. Use a laser to make your framing easier, when marking the top plate. Or what you can do is measure a stud for each end and lift your top plate and level it from there. Once you have it level, mark your first stud at 15 1/4" and then from there every 16" o.c. Hope this helps you do it correctly and like a pro.
Thanks for Taking the time and care to post that !!! Thank You !!
Thanks @mark Harris for your reply. I just want to make sure your builds last long and wont damage your materials. It takes time, money and effort to build. So whatever we can do to protect your investment goes along way. Happy framing!
It’s pressure treated wood it’s fine.
Ruben P Hello, I have a question for you since you seem so knowledgable on the subject. I am currently building a small workshop in my 2 car garage and wanted to frame one wall so it would be easier to store tools or do a bench cleat system. I've held off cause someone recently told me that I should drill through my block wall, cause its a foundation wall and has nothing but dirt on the other side and water will come through. It didn't seem right to me, but I don't do framing and I cant seem to find any answers to my question online. Any advice you can give me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
Ruben P do you leave 1” space from the plate to the wall?
You're a solder of the basement game. I salute you!
Thanks for the video! I'm be doing my basement this week.
owowwwoow nice , nice thank you I am service apartment maintenance technician I love the video to learn little more .
My garage on the inside is completely empty. No electric, no finishing whatsoever. Concrete floor with a drain in the middle, 4 windows that desperately need replaced, and block walls. It's a 30x30 garage about 15 ft high. My 3 garage doors are 9' wide x 10' tall. Where do I start on finishing this? Should I do framing, insulating first then windows? Trying to figure out what order to do things in because I need to replace the 4 windows and man door at some point. Also, should I do anything with the floor at all? I will be parking my cars in there eventually once I get new garage doors with motors. Really just for parking cars and a storage space
love it bro from new Zealand?💯
Great video
Thanks Paul! Great video.
Awesome, this is what I’m looking for
Thanks, excellent job
I'm assuming you're going to be putting insulation in that wall - so question is why no barrier between the cinder blocks and the framing? I would have assumed that would be put in while framing it and don't see any here. Letting the insulation rest directly on the cinder blocks or even touch the cinder blocks at any point is basically a guarantee of future mold growth at that spot - so there must be something I'm missing?
Tinfoilnation wonder if he put foam in-between just cut it to shape and then chalk around to close gaps. But yes maybe a tyvek material at least would be smart ?!
the vapor barrier usually goes on the inside so the building can breath, you do not want the moisture to be trapped in between the outside and the inside. i chose for the inside to be dry and the outside to breath.
So I noticed you didn't use another board on top of the plate. Is it hard nailing in the 2 x 4s that way
I always try and leave about a 2-3 in space between the block and framing...you need alot of airflow... otherwise you're looking at mold in the future
After some research pressure treated is not recommended because it tends to bow as it ageing because there pressure treated chemical dries out. Also pressure treated lumber is toxic and releases VOC.
You use pressure treated on the floor/ceiling where they make contract with concrete. Nothing else should touch the wall. Should be at least 1" away to begin with. This wouldn't meet code in Kansas, for a basement or garage. 1 inch foam board was used in between studs in our basement and foam spray to fill gaps.
Would it be a good idea to hang plastic on the block wall if you have grown on the other side of the block wall?
would that drillbit and anchor work for asphalt?
What about the top part of the frame? Did you screw it into the ceiling joists first?
nailed it up using nail gun
Wheres the dpm under timber 😢
Hi there, I am Looking for paint to use to seal the same walls from condensation for my garage conversation. May I ask do I need to fill any holes first, do I need a primer before this paint and what would you recommend? Would o need to apply any on the flooring as well before installing installation and flooring? Thanks for your advice
buy drylok extreme
Watched video,you did not show how you attached the top to the ceiling. I'm now lost lol
Thank you for the vid! I have a question if you don't mind. I was just getting ready to frame one side of my garage wall, when someone told me that drilling into my block wall will cause damage, since its a foundation wall with nothing but dirt on the other side. Is this true?? Thanks!
Hi, thank you for the video.
I have a question. What the name of the moisture barrier paint?
Red guard. Its used a lot in bathrooms 👍🏻
Wish you would have shown how to put up the top header.
great vid
what tool belt are you using? do you like it?
i got the tool belt at lowes, don't know the brand but its been in use for at least 5 years and i do like it.
I'm a new home owner but I'd really like to start doing some home improvement/projects. My basement floor is all cement but its very uneven so I'm assuming I'd need to sand and level this all out first? Or is there a way to fill in the lower parts to make everything even? Thanks!
Use self levelling cement to level out you Concrete
looks great
this would not pass in the UK by far , so please befor you start a job inform building regs so you dont mess up and have damp problems in the winter
steven olivero can you recommend any vids to show what would pass in UK?
Do you have to have a permit to do this?
Its not structual so here we don't need to pull permits for this type of work.
do i need a vapor barrier if its a garage or a closed in carport
If 8ts heated it's a good idea. The temperature difference will create moisture just like in your attic
Hey thanks I have to drywall and insulate my snake room this was a huge help
Thanks big help
Братюнь. Это бетонные блоки или они пустотелые?
I wish you finished it with the drywall
Why not frame the wall on the floor and lift it in place? I have a home made from cinder blocks and plan to frame and insulate next month.
its often not fully plum/square in basements. sometimes necessary to cut each stud one by one maybe a tad longer than what it should be, see how they fit and trim them down when needed
@@Blake-dw8ou Thanks. I did 1 wall yesterday which was 12x8 in a bed room. The local lumber store had really twisted boards so Im waiting on new delivery. Thanks
i did not have the room for that and the concrete floor was slopped. i those the easiest path to completion.
What is he hooking the top too
Good Video
How come the bottom plate wood is different color ? is it pressure treated wood
Joni English yes
You said you leave a half inch Gap on the baseboard but then your first Neil you tap the wood right up against the wall? Where is the half inch Gap? Or is that Gap only for the the wall that is exposed to the outside
He was tapping it to line up with his chalk line
That last plate he pounded directly to the wall after saying to leave a gap
What happened to the barrier on the floor you never put wood directly on and concrete that a no no and 1” away from the wall really to much handy manny here
5:21 hes says in a garage. It's not a basement.. so many ppl freaking out lol
If it's heated it will sweat. The windows show its underground even if it is a garage.
I dont see the underground window .. but at 5:43 , there's a drive way
@@davidfrisch5538 It doesn't mater if it's above ground or not, concrete is porous and won't dry until we're all dead. Even on concrete homes they do this for the entire structure, even a second floor. If the concrete is exposed, there is usually is a barrier on the outside or in-between the concrete pour.
So i never heard of usi g the water retardent in badement walls is that good
Ramset, water barier etc.
What about the top plate? Most videos I’ve seen they build the wall on the floor then raise it. I like the vid, but you don’t even mention how you connected the top plate up there. That’s important for someone like me who is basically learning this from scratch.
and vertical posts, how did that got screwed?
step 1: lay the bottom plate
step 2: frame the rest of the wall
And he did that wrong
@@stanlee7635 what did he wrong?
@@sergeydukman5832 I don’t feel like rewatching the video but for starters he didn’t put a poly barrier between the baseplate and the concrete. Pressure treated or not you really want to avoid direct contact with the cement since it will wick moisture.
@@stanlee7635 Thanks. But what about the wall? Don't we need to have atleast 20cm distance between frame and wall itself to create air circulation?
@@sergeydukman5832 I didn’t rewatch it but yes you need a decent air gap between the wall and studs. I left about an inch on mine.
Is there a finished link here? Im inspired
You didn’t show How did you nail each studs ???? Does anyone know a video that shows more in detail
He nailed it from the side at an angle. Referred to as toenailing.
Why not just dot and dab?
Definitely prime block w Drylock or similar.b4 framing.
Inside or outside? That plus a vapor barrier would keep moisture away???
I'm always amazed how many people don't wear eye protection when driving nails, screws, using saws, etc. Good work, but wear eye protection for the love of God.
quit being a bitch
@@ASSOOOJACK exactly, we all come with a spare eye. Now if you're runnin with only one, wear the glasses!
whiners, wimps, and lack of common sense created OSHA...I still operate my machines without gaurds, yellow hand rails, and sometimes weld without a helmet and grind without a shield...not everyone is a compliant little idiot
Until you asshats have had an eye injury, you'll continue to be morons. Good for you. Here's wishing the experience of an eye injury to those who call names, all the while making comments that prove a low IQ.
@@custom_redneck btw, who mentioned osha? You're most likely a total hack at your trade anyway you dimwit.
You just need sheer strength ... So it doesn't slide. We used to use deck screws drill them with a hammer drill.
Perfect environment for Toxic Mold.
Could you plz explain
All of that is probably moldy and rotten by now.
👍🏾
wow! strongly disagree with this build. A little tip, build your stud wall laying flat on the floor, then raise it up before you start gluing and shooting the footplate into the concrete.
Why? both ways look the same.. frame stands
I prefer to build with Woodglut plans.
what a stupid way to build a basement wall!! There are many better ways.
I cannot seem to find any videos about the best ways to frame a wall on your youtube account, please tell me that you were not just talking shit...
Next time use 1/2 in anchor, for the bottom plate.
You got it