Gee, I thought I was done experimenting with bullet lubes. I have a large supply of beeswax, lanolin and lambs tallow, along with Paul Mathews recommended neatsfoot and castor oils. Never encountered coconut oil until last week and now I see your video. My lube requirements are for percussion pistols and black powder cartridge loading for Cowboy shooting. My need is not as great as those who engage in long range shooting, but I have a certain fascination with lube recipes and your comments about leading and accuracy bear this out. Thanks for the new recipe and will be anxious to try some as soon as the weather breaks a bit.
50% Beeswax 45% Lard table spoon of synthetic transmission fluid . Works great for Smokeless and BP. I have been cowboy action shooting and loading with BP & Smokeless. This works great for my loads
Been kicking round few different Ideas, that toilet ring yes it is a no go the fouling for me, Soy Wax I thought was a grand idea but perfumes, dyes and other chemicals added for soap makers. Bees wax has similar but it is all natural so it burns and cleans better. Just an observation from someone whom has tried several ideas. This one covers all, by covers all I do muzzle loading as well as Smoke-less Why would I have 2 different lubes, 1 large batch I am set
Just downloaded the cast bullet guide and that is awesome. Printed it up and put in a binder for the reloading bench. Another good use for the lanolin in your bullet lube is to mix it 10/1 with 99 percent alcohol. Makes a great case lube for reloading.
I go outside to cut my wax. I also use a homemade hot knife. It’s made from scrap metal and is nothing fancy. I also stay out of the kitchen and go to the shop for the lube melt. I use a a little portable single burner hot plate. The “Elite Gourmet, Electric Single Burner” is of descent quality and works very well. I do not use Crisco anymore. After a while the Crisco starts to breakdown and it becomes a strange sticky glue like substance. It is nasty crap! It is made from hydrogenated cotton seed oil. I would never put Crisco anywere near my cutting boards or food. That crap will shorten your life if you use it with your food! Go look it up and learn about it. I’ll stick with tallow (cows) or lard (pigs). Incidentally, rendered bear or raccoon fat works very well… maybe better.
I like the cast bullet guide - I just made a small batch for 50/70 BP roller and trap door - 40% bees, 35% tallow 15% paraffin and some moly grease - looking forward to sending them to the paper. like your recipe the real down to earth is just equal part bees and tallow! I will use seal ring for a bit of the smokeless bullets - seems simple and half the cost of most other components! (I had to hunt for the guide with the tittle)
Beeswax and extra virgin olive oil. I use expensive olive oils and it’s amazing stuff. Although I do believe it will get sticky if it sits too long. I’m unsure. Never had that happen before but I’ve heard of it. You can add coconut oil but it depends what kind
For years I have been taking g a small jar of Cisco to the range for BPCR shooting. Before I chamber the cartridge I rotate the bullet nose in the jar of Cisco to LIGHTLY coat the nose with Cisco. It keeps the fouling very soft. The bullets are lubed with an SPG type of lube.
Great video. Have you ever used this lube in a lubrisizer? I found out the hard way to make sure your lube will perform before loading it up in your lubrisizer! Another hard lesson.
there as many formulas as there are shooters as we will see. Some are simple some complex but basically a wax, bee or canning, and lard, covers all powders. For black powder if you can't eat it, don't shoot it.
@@bunkstagner298 haha! Pretty good rule of thumb! I like this recipe because the ingredients are cheap and easy to come by. It’s reasonably effective as well. There are better lubes for long range black powder that’s for sure. This one does a good job though especially for beginners and people who are just dipping a toe in the waters to see how things work.
I’m sure you could keep it at room temp but I’m kinda anal about things like this. I want it to be preserved as good as possible since it lasts a long time before you can use it all.
Very interesting video. I have known for a long time that using smokeless lube with the holy black was bad mojo but I have often wondered whether one could use BP lube for smokeless. BTW, what is the purpose of the lanolin?
@@RecoilTherapyChannel have you ever been able to compare accuracy to one of the mainstream lubes like SPG? I have a rifle coming in next month and I'd much rather prefer to make a recipe like this rather than order a bunch of expensive lube online!
Crisco is difficult to get in Germany. I am thinking about using standard frying fat ( palm fat & rapeseed oil) instead of it. I only want to use one type of grease in my RCBS Lube A Matic for my Sharps 45/70 black powder cartridges and 30/30 Win, 6,5x55, 7,5x55, 8x57 smokeless cartridges (9mm Luger) . Do you have any advice here? It would make sense to maintain a high melting temperature here, wouldn't it? I am pretty sure this lube will also do a good job for my 100m muzzle loader bullets.
I haven’t tried those oils… The other one I did try however is high temperature coconut oil. It seems to work really well and do an excellent job. I am the same way on only having one type of lube in the sizer. I’ve run this lube with everything from 9 mm up through 445 super magnum and pistol and also on my 4570 Rifles and I think it will do fine on my 4590 that I just got as well. I think as long as you don’t go over about 1800 or so feet per second you’ll be OK.
Thanks again for the great info. QUESTION. How do you control fouling in different different weather conditions? The worst I suppose is hot and dry. Can you please give your insight on primers, powder compression, lube ext on this topic. Haha no pressure
Best way to keep fouling under control is to wipe between every shot. That works great for gong shoots like the Q. I’m silhouette though, you do t have time for that. I blow tube for silhouette, but I also live in western Washington where the humidity is always over 50%. Guys in the desert SW regularly run into a situation called “fouling out” where blow tubing and lube are not enough and accuracy goes out the window. Only experimenting with your load will tell you how many shots you can fire before fouling out.
A perfect video... Can this bullet lube also be used in the RCBS Lube A Matic? Simply use a cylindric mold for the lube and use the bullet lube sticks in the calibration & lube press?
It’s a lot cheaper than SPG…as far as whether it’s better or not I can’t really answer that. SPG and DGL (very similar) are both used by a lot of shooters, but this recipe is also used by a lot of guys. Experimentation with your rifle/load combo will point you on the way you need to go.
For lubes that use an animal or vegetable fat mixed with the beeswax, is there a shelf life on them? I might make and backstock lots of .45-70 bullets, and having them prelubed would save some time. I assume it wouldn't be a problem in a loaded cartridge because they would be sealed from air and light contact?
I had thought of trying the same thing. Vegetable oils will definitely last longer than animal oils. After I lubed up a bunch of Keith bullets and let them sit, I changed my mind. Having lubed bullets sitting out attracts dust. Lube can also dry out over time too. Now what I do is have my lube sticks stored in the fridge outside my loading room and I just run a bullet into the lube sizer and then seat it in a case. That way, I know that it's fresh. Once you get a rhythm going, it doesn't seem to be that much slower. I'm on a single stage press though, if I was on a progressive, I'd just lube them up in batches of 50 or 100 right before I needed them.
@@RecoilTherapyChannel I might get a lube sizer. My reloading recipe asks for unsized bullets (Springfield trapdoor), so I didn't really consider using one before. I could just get an oversized die for it, in .460" and hope no excess lube squirts out.
@@pcblah slug the barrel with a good size egg sinker. You’ll probably need a die running .462-.463 or so…you can get those at Buffalo Arms. Call them up and tell em what you got going. You probably need a bigger mold too. Look up Steve Brooks or Buffalo Arms, either one.
Seems like it would, but I don't have any experience with muzzle loaders. I would think that you'd have to watch how much you got on each patch as this recipe is solid at regular temps, you wouldn't want an over-soaked patch.
Excellent video And I learned something. curious what bullet you are shooting I have a Pedersoli Quigley in 45/90. I have had it for several years but haven't fired it yet due to health problems. Pretty well to back on my feet now and need to get started.
So in picking a bullet you need to verify what the twist rate is in your rifle. I think that the Pedersolis are running 18”, which would mean that your looking for a bullet no more than 1.42” long. You can get an excellent mold from Steve Brooks (brooksmolds.com) in the New Postell style of about 535 grains or so. This will get you way out there to a thousand yards or more.
@@RecoilTherapyChannel Thank you so much.. I tried that before but got nowhere - Tried again and success. I think a Silecone Valley Soy Boy (girl) blocked this on another search engine Thanks again RJ
At this point in time I have no intention of making my own bullets. At your recommendation I found 535 gr bullets at Montana Bullet Works lubed for black powder. Still learning from your videos about black powder. My question is, can you shoot smokeless powder loaded with bullets lubed with black powder lube? Thanks
Yup sure can. MBW has pretty good stuff that will serve well. You’ll need to cast your own if you decide to start chasing long range target work but for gong shoots (Quigley) you’ll be ok. Smokeless loads should duplicate BP ballistics. 5744 and 4198 are excellent choices. With that bullet, your most accurate velocity is likely to be in the high 1200’s to mid 1300’s. A LabRadar makes things much easier. Have fun with it!
@@RecoilTherapyChannel Thanks for the quick reply. I’m far from competing in black powder shoots but enjoy watching you do it. And thanks for the tips on the smokeless powder. I use those along with 3031 and 4064. Also have some BP loads using 1 and 2F. Have you ever tried duplex loads with small amounts (4 gr) of smokeless at the base of the case and BP for the rest? It’s said this reduces fouling allowing more shots between barrel swabbing. I have a Caldwell chronograph but I need to use it more.
@@RecoilTherapyChannel Have you ever tried duplex loads with small amounts (4 gr) of smokeless at the base of the case and BP for the rest? It’s said this reduces fouling allowing more shots between barrel swabbing.
@@dogbone1358 duplexing seems to be falling out of favor as most matches now ban it. I have not tried it personally, but every reference to it does mention the benefits you list as well as a boost in velocity. Wiping between every shot is key to getting the best accuracy, so even if I were to go the duplex route, I would still be wiping every shot.
Find the SDS sheet for it and verify that it’s just lanolin. You don’t want any petroleum base products in BP lube. For smokeless it doesn’t matter much. Just so long as there’s not a bunch of other additives in there is the big thing. If there are additives in it, I’d forget it and order from Bulk Apothecary. These ingredients are not expensive. I’m still working off the first batch of materials I bought for this video, and not in danger of running out anytime soon.
@@RecoilTherapyChannelGood idea, thanks, I always forget to check that. The MSDS of Gardner Bender 79006N Wont say what it is composed of but everything checks out. Would rather not try it if they're gonna be like WD-40 and hold out their true ingredients.
Im too old to do B.P. anymore and this isnt about lube,.but thot Id pass on a source of "wax" in a form from which it is easy to make wads- Go to the hardware store and buy the seals they use when they install a toilet. Chill em in the fridge. make a punch out of a cartridge a bit larger than the ball. Make a "short piston" out of a dowel rod (to push the wad out of the cartridge) drill the primer hole out enuf to run a push rod thru. Punch the wads out of the bees wax, push em out and stack em up. The wax toilet seal is cheaper for the quantity of wads you can make than buying them.
I had heard that a while back too. I covered using toilet wax in the video because it isn't pure beeswax, it's an industrial product called "slack wax" and is full of petroleum products. It may work OK for smokeless powder but no petroleum products should ever be used in BP lube as it will create hard fouling in the bore. The other thing is that the rings are not any cheaper than buying pure beeswax from Bulk Apothecary. You get a better deal buying real beeswax and steering clear of the toilet rings.
@@RecoilTherapyChannelMaybe because I didnt use it that long. I only needed a small amount to try out a Manhatten C&B used at Chickamauga in 1861. Last time fired was around 1933 shooting rats in my Grampa's corn crib. lol I just wanted to see if it would still shoot. It did, just fine. My local gunshop didny have any Blkpwdr supplies, so I was on my own. LOL
Good thing you asked….soy wax is awful with BP…can create an asphalt like substance in your barrel. Starting to learn that beeswax has its limits too. Try some Ozokerite wax from Etsy. I’m experimenting with it right now and it’s very promising. Synthetic spermaceti might be another good one too.
@@RecoilTherapyChannel thanks for letting me know, as stated kicking around ideas I am partial to what you shared with us... mainly because it serves black powder and smoke less
@@raysheppard8040 the lube recipe in this video is easy to make and the ingredients are all low cost and easy to come by. There are better lubes but this one is a good "jack of all trades lube" and will serve well in most circumstances. Don't fall for the toilet ring wax either. It's not the same as beeswax and (by the pound) not any cheaper either.
If running smokeless powder, gun cleaning oil might work. The thing about black powder though, is that if you run a petroleum based lube, it will create really hard fouling in the barrel that is difficult to remove. With BP, one of the most important things the lube is supposed to do, is keep the fouling soft. That's the reason for the vegetable based oils in this lube. There are many lube recipes in Glenn Fryxell's book "From Ingot to Target" that you can search. It's free to download from their website.
Cookie deleted my comment, for saying that ring was a petroleum product and not beeswax. I also pointed out home de POT is upside down and on the government tit and how he was making money off taxpayers. Hahaha 🤷♂️
Sad to see that the info was deleted regarding the Ingot to Target Bullet Casting is missing today.
The name of their website changed. Try this…
www.artfulbullet.com/documents/Fryxell_Book_textonly2.pdf
@@RecoilTherapyChannel 💖💖💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻🔞🔞🔞🔞🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻
Gee, I thought I was done experimenting with bullet lubes. I have a large supply of beeswax, lanolin and lambs tallow, along with Paul Mathews recommended neatsfoot and castor oils. Never encountered coconut oil until last week and now I see your video. My lube requirements are for percussion pistols and black powder cartridge loading for Cowboy shooting. My need is not as great as those who engage in long range shooting, but I have a certain fascination with lube recipes and your comments about leading and accuracy bear this out. Thanks for the new recipe and will be anxious to try some as soon as the weather breaks a bit.
The lube I used in my Kentucky long rifle and Reb Nord was mutton fat and washing detergent. Clean up with boiling water was a breeze.
A lot of the old time lubes used animal fat of one type or another. Clean up is one of the ways you can tell if your lube is working.
50% Beeswax 45% Lard table spoon of synthetic transmission fluid .
Works great for Smokeless and BP.
I have been cowboy action shooting and loading with BP & Smokeless.
This works great for my loads
Been kicking round few different Ideas, that toilet ring yes it is a no go the fouling for me, Soy Wax I thought was a grand idea but perfumes, dyes and other chemicals added for soap makers. Bees wax has similar but it is all natural so it burns and cleans better. Just an observation from someone whom has tried several ideas. This one covers all, by covers all I do muzzle loading as well as Smoke-less Why would I have 2 different lubes, 1 large batch I am set
Just downloaded the cast bullet guide and that is awesome. Printed it up and put in a binder for the reloading bench. Another good use for the lanolin in your bullet lube is to mix it 10/1 with 99 percent alcohol. Makes a great case lube for reloading.
I can’t seem to find the cast bullet guide in post vid info. Could you please help me out and send me the link. Thanks
www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_textonly2.pdf@@tomlagatol4448
Could you post up or pm me the "cast bullet guide" link.. sorry but I could not locate it in your video
What you might look into is a DIY hotwire cutter. Should cut that bees wax real fast.
I go outside to cut my wax. I also use a homemade hot knife. It’s made from scrap metal and is nothing fancy.
I also stay out of the kitchen and go to the shop for the lube melt. I use a a little portable single burner hot plate. The “Elite Gourmet, Electric Single Burner” is of descent quality and works very well.
I do not use Crisco anymore. After a while the Crisco starts to breakdown and it becomes a strange sticky glue like substance. It is nasty crap! It is made from hydrogenated cotton seed oil. I would never put Crisco anywere near my cutting boards or food. That crap will shorten your life if you use it with your food! Go look it up and learn about it.
I’ll stick with tallow (cows) or lard (pigs). Incidentally, rendered bear or raccoon fat works very well… maybe better.
@@NW_Rangerthe lube can also be made with high temp coconut oil in the same amount.
No crisco in my food either!
I like the cast bullet guide - I just made a small batch for 50/70 BP roller and trap door - 40% bees, 35% tallow 15% paraffin and some moly grease - looking forward to sending them to the paper. like your recipe the real down to earth is just equal part bees and tallow! I will use seal ring for a bit of the smokeless bullets - seems simple and half the cost of most other components! (I had to hunt for the guide with the tittle)
I use basically the same formula i just used what i had beeswax Cisco a little olive oil an a little duck fat works good in hot weather
Beeswax and extra virgin olive oil. I use expensive olive oils and it’s amazing stuff. Although I do believe it will get sticky if it sits too long. I’m unsure. Never had that happen before but I’ve heard of it. You can add coconut oil but it depends what kind
Nice video, you have my interest, I would really like to see how it's applied to the bullets, thanks again.
For years I have been taking g a small jar of Cisco to the range for BPCR shooting. Before I chamber the cartridge I rotate the bullet nose in the jar of Cisco to LIGHTLY coat the nose with Cisco. It keeps the fouling very soft. The bullets are lubed with an SPG type of lube.
The lube he is making is basically SPG
Thanks very much I certainly do appreciate that. I got that recipe the last time you showed it
Sir you should try using a hot pitcher of water and resting your blade in it prior to cutting your wax and between each cut.
Very awesome stuff! I wish I was in the position to cast my own.
really appreciate all this info
You have such a nice show, I really appreciate the help you have given me !!
I melt and clarify raw beeswax in a crockpot set on low.
Use avocado oil if you want a high temp lube
Is Avacado oil solid at normal temps?
@@RecoilTherapyChannel unfortunately not i usually mix it with beeswax and carnauba wax until its the consistency i want
Bees wax ate our lives man, 7 minutes out of 19 min video it's cuttin' beeswax 😜😜😁😂🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻
Sorry man, I really should probably remake this old video lol!
Great video. Have you ever used this lube in a lubrisizer? I found out the hard way to make sure your lube will perform before loading it up in your lubrisizer! Another hard lesson.
I make up tubes for my RCBS lube sizer using PVC pipe. Works great with no heat needed.
there as many formulas as there are shooters as we will see. Some are simple some complex but basically a wax, bee or canning, and lard, covers all powders. For black powder if you can't eat it, don't shoot it.
@@bunkstagner298 haha! Pretty good rule of thumb! I like this recipe because the ingredients are cheap and easy to come by. It’s reasonably effective as well. There are better lubes for long range black powder that’s for sure. This one does a good job though especially for beginners and people who are just dipping a toe in the waters to see how things work.
You said in your video that you kept it in your refrigerator. Does it have to be refrigerated or can it be kept at room temp?
I’m sure you could keep it at room temp but I’m kinda anal about things like this. I want it to be preserved as good as possible since it lasts a long time before you can use it all.
Very interesting video. I have known for a long time that using smokeless lube with the holy black was bad mojo but I have often wondered whether one could use BP lube for smokeless.
BTW, what is the purpose of the lanolin?
The Lannin gives it a little bit of extra stickiness to help the lube stay in the grooves.
@@RecoilTherapyChannel Thanks.
did you test if this wax produces a lot of smoke in the shot? usually beeswax makes a lot of smoke. good video. I will try to make your recipe
Doesn’t seem any smokier than the guys shooting next to me. Accuracy results have been great so far too
@@RecoilTherapyChannel have you ever been able to compare accuracy to one of the mainstream lubes like SPG? I have a rifle coming in next month and I'd much rather prefer to make a recipe like this rather than order a bunch of expensive lube online!
Crisco is difficult to get in Germany. I am thinking about using standard frying fat ( palm fat & rapeseed oil) instead of it. I only want to use one type of grease in my RCBS Lube A Matic for my Sharps 45/70 black powder cartridges and 30/30 Win, 6,5x55, 7,5x55, 8x57 smokeless cartridges (9mm Luger) . Do you have any advice here? It would make sense to maintain a high melting temperature here, wouldn't it?
I am pretty sure this lube will also do a good job for my 100m muzzle loader bullets.
I haven’t tried those oils… The other one I did try however is high temperature coconut oil. It seems to work really well and do an excellent job.
I am the same way on only having one type of lube in the sizer. I’ve run this lube with everything from 9 mm up through 445 super magnum and pistol and also on my 4570 Rifles and I think it will do fine on my 4590 that I just got as well. I think as long as you don’t go over about 1800 or so feet per second you’ll be OK.
I bet bacon grease would work great! Smell good too! Lol
Use lard. Crisco is an abomination.
Glad you put this back up. Will this lube work fine for black and smokeless? Just ordered a couple dies for my 45-70's
I’ve used it for both and it’s worked great. It’s a soft lube though so I only make up as many lubed bullets as I need at the time.
Are you willing to inform me as to where you purchased the beeswax ?
Thank you !
BulkApothecary.com
Thanks again for the great info.
QUESTION.
How do you control fouling in different different weather conditions?
The worst I suppose is hot and dry.
Can you please give your insight on primers, powder compression, lube ext on this topic. Haha no pressure
Best way to keep fouling under control is to wipe between every shot. That works great for gong shoots like the Q.
I’m silhouette though, you do t have time for that. I blow tube for silhouette, but I also live in western Washington where the humidity is always over 50%.
Guys in the desert SW regularly run into a situation called “fouling out” where blow tubing and lube are not enough and accuracy goes out the window. Only experimenting with your load will tell you how many shots you can fire before fouling out.
I saw your note on buying bees wax in pellet form, but can you tell where you got a big block of bees wax, I can use it for other reasons.
Look on Bulk Apothecary dot com.
A perfect video... Can this bullet lube also be used in the RCBS Lube A Matic? Simply use a cylindric mold for the lube and use the bullet lube sticks in the calibration & lube press?
That’s what I do…don’t use a heater with this lube though. It will run all over the place if you heat it.
How dos this lube compare to SPG? Also is it less cost to make this lube. Thanks for a great video
It’s a lot cheaper than SPG…as far as whether it’s better or not I can’t really answer that. SPG and DGL (very similar) are both used by a lot of shooters, but this recipe is also used by a lot of guys.
Experimentation with your rifle/load combo will point you on the way you need to go.
@@RecoilTherapyChannel thankyou for replying. I'm gonna give this recipe a try. Where did you buy the bulk bees wax and lanolin
@@erickschmidt3828 look up “Bulk Apothecary” on the interwebs
@@RecoilTherapyChannel thankyou
For lubes that use an animal or vegetable fat mixed with the beeswax, is there a shelf life on them? I might make and backstock lots of .45-70 bullets, and having them prelubed would save some time.
I assume it wouldn't be a problem in a loaded cartridge because they would be sealed from air and light contact?
I had thought of trying the same thing. Vegetable oils will definitely last longer than animal oils. After I lubed up a bunch of Keith bullets and let them sit, I changed my mind. Having lubed bullets sitting out attracts dust. Lube can also dry out over time too.
Now what I do is have my lube sticks stored in the fridge outside my loading room and I just run a bullet into the lube sizer and then seat it in a case. That way, I know that it's fresh. Once you get a rhythm going, it doesn't seem to be that much slower. I'm on a single stage press though, if I was on a progressive, I'd just lube them up in batches of 50 or 100 right before I needed them.
@@RecoilTherapyChannel I might get a lube sizer. My reloading recipe asks for unsized bullets (Springfield trapdoor), so I didn't really consider using one before.
I could just get an oversized die for it, in .460" and hope no excess lube squirts out.
@@pcblah slug the barrel with a good size egg sinker. You’ll probably need a die running .462-.463 or so…you can get those at Buffalo Arms. Call them up and tell em what you got going. You probably need a bigger mold too. Look up Steve Brooks or Buffalo Arms, either one.
The lube recipe in this video will work well for you. Avoid any petroleum products in your lube if running real black powder.
You kept saying the website in the description, all I see in the description was some scented oil site
Bulk Apothecary is where you can get real beeswax. Buy it in pellet form not the huge block lol…
@@RecoilTherapyChannel ok that is good but I was talking about the bullet casting guide
@@georgelewis7010 www.artfulbullet.com/documents/Fryxell_Book_textonly2.pdf
Would this work as a patch lube also if I was to soak my patches in it?
Seems like it would, but I don't have any experience with muzzle loaders. I would think that you'd have to watch how much you got on each patch as this recipe is solid at regular temps, you wouldn't want an over-soaked patch.
Excellent video And I learned something. curious what bullet you are shooting I have a Pedersoli Quigley in 45/90. I have had it for several years but haven't fired it yet due to health problems. Pretty well to back on my feet now and need to get started.
So in picking a bullet you need to verify what the twist rate is in your rifle. I think that the Pedersolis are running 18”, which would mean that your looking for a bullet no more than 1.42” long. You can get an excellent mold from Steve Brooks (brooksmolds.com) in the New Postell style of about 535 grains or so. This will get you way out there to a thousand yards or more.
Thanks for the quick reply. You wouldn't have a link to the cast bullet guide someone mentioned would you.
@@ronmorse5624
www.lasc.us/ArticlesFryxell.htm
Thank you. I really appreciate it.
Looking for a web add or link to the Frye book, obviously I missed it if it is there? Thanks in advance..bob
Search “From Ingot to Target” by Glenn Fryxell… It’s free to download and print off.
@@RecoilTherapyChannel Thank you so much..
I tried that before but got nowhere - Tried again and success.
I think a Silecone Valley Soy Boy (girl) blocked this on another search engine
Thanks again
RJ
At this point in time I have no intention of making my own bullets. At your recommendation I found 535 gr bullets at Montana Bullet Works lubed for black powder. Still learning from your videos about black powder. My question is, can you shoot smokeless powder loaded with bullets lubed with black powder lube? Thanks
Yup sure can. MBW has pretty good stuff that will serve well. You’ll need to cast your own if you decide to start chasing long range target work but for gong shoots (Quigley) you’ll be ok.
Smokeless loads should duplicate BP ballistics. 5744 and 4198 are excellent choices. With that bullet, your most accurate velocity is likely to be in the high 1200’s to mid 1300’s. A LabRadar makes things much easier.
Have fun with it!
PS….stay away from any wads or fillers with those powders. It’s a banned practice at the Quigley and dangerous to boot.
@@RecoilTherapyChannel Thanks for the quick reply. I’m far from competing in black powder shoots but enjoy watching you do it. And thanks for the tips on the smokeless powder. I use those along with 3031 and 4064. Also have some BP loads using 1 and 2F.
Have you ever tried duplex loads with small amounts (4 gr) of smokeless at the base of the case and BP for the rest? It’s said this reduces fouling allowing more shots between barrel swabbing. I have a Caldwell chronograph but I need to use it more.
@@RecoilTherapyChannel Have you ever tried duplex loads with small amounts (4 gr) of smokeless at the base of the case and BP for the rest? It’s said this reduces fouling allowing more shots between barrel swabbing.
@@dogbone1358 duplexing seems to be falling out of favor as most matches now ban it. I have not tried it personally, but every reference to it does mention the benefits you list as well as a boost in velocity.
Wiping between every shot is key to getting the best accuracy, so even if I were to go the duplex route, I would still be wiping every shot.
I have wire pulling lube which is thick lanolin, think that will work? Thanks for the video
Find the SDS sheet for it and verify that it’s just lanolin. You don’t want any petroleum base products in BP lube. For smokeless it doesn’t matter much. Just so long as there’s not a bunch of other additives in there is the big thing.
If there are additives in it, I’d forget it and order from Bulk Apothecary. These ingredients are not expensive. I’m still working off the first batch of materials I bought for this video, and not in danger of running out anytime soon.
@@RecoilTherapyChannelGood idea, thanks, I always forget to check that. The MSDS of Gardner Bender 79006N Wont say what it is composed of but everything checks out. Would rather not try it if they're gonna be like WD-40 and hold out their true ingredients.
I am curious if you or anyone else has used lard in bullet lube?
I’m pretty sure that it would work… Most of the old time recipes call for an animal, fat of one kind or another.
Im too old to do B.P. anymore and this isnt about lube,.but thot Id pass on a source of "wax" in a form from which it is easy to make wads- Go to the hardware store and buy the seals they use when they install a toilet. Chill em in the fridge. make a punch out of a cartridge a bit larger than the ball. Make a "short piston" out of a dowel rod (to push the wad out of the cartridge) drill the primer hole out enuf to run a push rod thru. Punch the wads out of the bees wax, push em out and stack em up. The wax toilet seal is cheaper for the quantity of wads you can make than buying them.
I had heard that a while back too. I covered using toilet wax in the video because it isn't pure beeswax, it's an industrial product called "slack wax" and is full of petroleum products. It may work OK for smokeless powder but no petroleum products should ever be used in BP lube as it will create hard fouling in the bore. The other thing is that the rings are not any cheaper than buying pure beeswax from Bulk Apothecary. You get a better deal buying real beeswax and steering clear of the toilet rings.
@@RecoilTherapyChannelMaybe because I didnt use it that long. I only needed a small amount to try out a Manhatten C&B used at Chickamauga in 1861. Last time fired was around 1933 shooting rats in my Grampa's corn crib. lol I just wanted to see if it would still shoot. It did, just fine. My local gunshop didny have any Blkpwdr supplies, so I was on my own. LOL
yeah we're on our own for most things BP these days! One good source is Buffalo Arms in Ponderay, ID. They have a great website too.
Great channel..thx
I'm kicking around different ideas how about soy wax? I found it in a bees wax search, Just made me wonder ahout it
Good thing you asked….soy wax is awful with BP…can create an asphalt like substance in your barrel.
Starting to learn that beeswax has its limits too. Try some Ozokerite wax from Etsy. I’m experimenting with it right now and it’s very promising. Synthetic spermaceti might be another good one too.
@@RecoilTherapyChannel thanks for letting me know, as stated kicking around ideas I am partial to what you shared with us... mainly because it serves black powder and smoke less
@@raysheppard8040 the lube recipe in this video is easy to make and the ingredients are all low cost and easy to come by. There are better lubes but this one is a good "jack of all trades lube" and will serve well in most circumstances.
Don't fall for the toilet ring wax either. It's not the same as beeswax and (by the pound) not any cheaper either.
Correct spelling of book authors: Glen E. Fryxell and Robert L. Applegate
At least somebody’s paying attention
What does the lanolin and canola contribute? Would a 50/50 beeswax/coconut oil work as well?
Canola is a highly efficient machine oil and lanolin adds some adhesion so the lube stays in the grooves better
I’m a beekeeper..I’ve got plenty of wax….but thanks for the info….
Jeezus melt that thing down into 1 lb wax ingot.
Sometimes I am a little slow on the uptake LOL
Just microwave it.
👍👍👍👍🇺🇸💪
Proper black powder cartridge lube.
50% Beeswax
40% Lamb Tallow
5% Lanolin
5% Whale oil
I gave up after watching 6 minutes of slicing wax...
Can’t please everybody
Guns cleaning oil..this sir
If running smokeless powder, gun cleaning oil might work. The thing about black powder though, is that if you run a petroleum based lube, it will create really hard fouling in the barrel that is difficult to remove. With BP, one of the most important things the lube is supposed to do, is keep the fouling soft. That's the reason for the vegetable based oils in this lube.
There are many lube recipes in Glenn Fryxell's book "From Ingot to Target" that you can search. It's free to download from their website.
Cookie deleted my comment, for saying that ring was a petroleum product and not beeswax.
I also pointed out home de POT is upside down and on the government tit and how he was making money off taxpayers. Hahaha 🤷♂️