Hello mate Can you do it without the alignment tool? Obviously, you did a good job, but the seal lip (the brown one) will be pointing outward away from the crank, I was advised that the seal lip must be pointing inward towards the crank hence the requirement of the tool, can you advise please as I am about to do that job and I cannot find the alignment tool. Cheers
The alignment tool is really needed, to be on the safe side . It might be possible to take some thin plastic , and make a circle and get that to work. Usually the rear seal will come with a tool like the one in this link. I would try and order one from somewhere if possible. Thank you very much for watching.
i have an issue in my main seal for Mazda 2.5 engine, we did replace the seal two time the first was correct but i though there was a problem because there was leaking from it, then we did put the second one with the same issue, and after asking the previous owner he told me that the engine has been rebuild previously only for the head due to over heating issues, and now I'm wondering is my problem that the crank shaft need to be cerfaced and need to replace the main bearing and rod bearing ?
Another issue these have may be excess crank case pressure. I would change out the pcv valve or check it as well , just to rule that out. Thanks for the feedback.
Hey! Great video 👍. I replaced my RMS with my clutch from the transmission side a few days ago. I did not seal the bottom though. It has started leaking from what I can assume is the bottom. Do you think it is possible to seal it by pulling the oil pan instead of the transmission? Also, do you think anything but the bottom needs to be sealed?
Its not real easy but I would start with removing the oil pan to seal that. However I have heard of others having issues with these rear seals themselves . Hopefully thats not the case. I did not have issue with mine but there is a plastic sleeve that assist with the install . I might go oem with next one I replace also. Hope it is a simple fix and thanks for watching.
+Maria Alejandra I hope to do another in the future on removal of the transmission, to access the rear seal and go into greater detail .thanks for watching
+Jose Garcia I haven't done it without removing both , however if I did it I'd just remove the transmission enough to gain access as there is not as much to just removing the transmission. Also I will point out to make absolutely sure the rear seal you get comes with the plastic retainer tool . It's just a clear round plastic device designed to assure the lip on the seal doesn't flip backward , you twist it out carefully after pushing the seal on and bolting it down. If I get the chance I will do another video with using the retainer tool . With this particular car I got lucky and didn't have any issue with the seal even without using the retainer but in the past I have had an issue with another car . I'm not saying it can't be done without it but it's definitely easier and less risky with the retainer tool . Make sure the part store sells it with the rear seal or if you order it make sure it comes with it . Thank you for watching and best of luck on your project .
As far as I know they are the same , but anytime the year is different I'd definitely do more research. Basically blocks are same but there may be some variation and few things need swapped from the original . I guess alot of people are using them because they were cheaper . However the mazda 6 use a 2.3l as well in some models . But definitely whatever is easier to find and more affordable is the way to go . Thanks for watching.
I was actually replacing the transmission at the time and had to take the engine and tran out together. But it could also be done by dropping the tran out the bottom . Either way is work but sometimes I have made quicker time by just removing the tran. Great question and thanks for watching.
No issues . Just make sure to use a generous bead of rtv when sliding it into place. Also make sure to use a retainer when installing the seal , it worked out for me but you're supposed use one. It's really just alot of common sense when sealing parts and being careful. I don't know if the manual mentions when sealing the oil pan you also have to remove the whole timing cover to seal it properly . I've done it without but there again had to be careful. With alot of these new engine designs it really becomes a question of just how much do I want to remove , or can I figure out another way . Hope this helps and best of luck on your project
The retainer is just clear piece that aids in installation of the seal. It just keeps the Teflon lip from flipping backwards which would cause leaks. Once installed it just carefully twist and pulls out. Make sure when you get the rear seal it comes with one . And personally I'd recommend getting an oem seal or a really good brand aftermarket . Thanks again
I have the 2001 FSM and it just says " 1. remove flywheel, 2. Remove the bolts and the crankshaft rear oil seal". No mention of removing the oil pan. Are you think of the older 2.3L that are not the Duratec?
+Ricky Santos The seal I used on this was national seal 710539 torque converter seal. But yes you absolutely want to replace both the rear seal and the torque converter seal . Just because of the difficulty to get to these seals after it's in as a rule of thumb it's always best to change them even if the miles are low. Also if you remove your cv axles make sure and replace the output or cv axle seals they are only 5 or 6 dollars but they can really leak. Also make sure to put lube or transmission fluid on the seals after getting them installed so you don't run them dry . Running them dry will ruin them real quick. Hope this helps and thanks for watching
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Hello mate
Can you do it without the alignment tool? Obviously, you did a good job, but the seal lip (the brown one) will be pointing outward away from the crank, I was advised that the seal lip must be pointing inward towards the crank hence the requirement of the tool, can you advise please as I am about to do that job and I cannot find the alignment tool. Cheers
The alignment tool is really needed, to be on the safe side . It might be possible to take some thin plastic , and make a circle and get that to work. Usually the rear seal will come with a tool like the one in this link. I would try and order one from somewhere if possible. Thank you very much for watching.
i have an issue in my main seal for Mazda 2.5 engine, we did replace the seal two time the first was correct but i though there was a problem because there was leaking from it, then we did put the second one with the same issue, and after asking the previous owner he told me that the engine has been rebuild previously only for the head due to over heating issues, and now I'm wondering is my problem that the crank shaft need to be cerfaced and need to replace the main bearing and rod bearing ?
Another issue these have may be excess crank case pressure. I would change out the pcv valve or check it as well , just to rule that out. Thanks for the feedback.
Hey! Great video 👍. I replaced my RMS with my clutch from the transmission side a few days ago. I did not seal the bottom though. It has started leaking from what I can assume is the bottom. Do you think it is possible to seal it by pulling the oil pan instead of the transmission? Also, do you think anything but the bottom needs to be sealed?
Its not real easy but I would start with removing the oil pan to seal that. However I have heard of others having issues with these rear seals themselves . Hopefully thats not the case. I did not have issue with mine but there is a plastic sleeve that assist with the install . I might go oem with next one I replace also. Hope it is a simple fix and thanks for watching.
Great video! Wish you show how to get there
+Maria Alejandra I hope to do another in the future on removal of the transmission, to access the rear seal and go into greater detail .thanks for watching
Hello Im about to do the same, mazda 3 2005 should I take the engine off or the transmission instead?
+Jose Garcia I haven't done it without removing both , however if I did it I'd just remove the transmission enough to gain access as there is not as much to just removing the transmission. Also I will point out to make absolutely sure the rear seal you get comes with the plastic retainer tool . It's just a clear round plastic device designed to assure the lip on the seal doesn't flip backward , you twist it out carefully after pushing the seal on and bolting it down. If I get the chance I will do another video with using the retainer tool . With this particular car I got lucky and didn't have any issue with the seal even without using the retainer but in the past I have had an issue with another car . I'm not saying it can't be done without it but it's definitely easier and less risky with the retainer tool . Make sure the part store sells it with the rear seal or if you order it make sure it comes with it . Thank you for watching and best of luck on your project .
s33therfan thankyou so much!!
Is this the same engine as the 06' fusion ?
As far as I know they are the same , but anytime the year is different I'd definitely do more research. Basically blocks are same but there may be some variation and few things need swapped from the original . I guess alot of people are using them because they were cheaper . However the mazda 6 use a 2.3l as well in some models . But definitely whatever is easier to find and more affordable is the way to go . Thanks for watching.
Did u pull the engine to do the seal?
I was actually replacing the transmission at the time and had to take the engine and tran out together. But it could also be done by dropping the tran out the bottom . Either way is work but sometimes I have made quicker time by just removing the tran. Great question and thanks for watching.
Hey. The FSM says you need to remove the oil pan to replace the RMS. Obviously you didn't do that. Any issues?
No issues . Just make sure to use a generous bead of rtv when sliding it into place. Also make sure to use a retainer when installing the seal , it worked out for me but you're supposed use one. It's really just alot of common sense when sealing parts and being careful. I don't know if the manual mentions when sealing the oil pan you also have to remove the whole timing cover to seal it properly . I've done it without but there again had to be careful. With alot of these new engine designs it really becomes a question of just how much do I want to remove , or can I figure out another way . Hope this helps and best of luck on your project
Thanks for the reply. What do you mean by "use a retainer when installing the seal?"
The retainer is just clear piece that aids in installation of the seal. It just keeps the Teflon lip from flipping backwards which would cause leaks. Once installed it just carefully twist and pulls out. Make sure when you get the rear seal it comes with one . And personally I'd recommend getting an oem seal or a really good brand aftermarket . Thanks again
I have the 2001 FSM and it just says " 1. remove flywheel, 2. Remove the bolts and the crankshaft rear oil seal". No mention of removing the oil pan. Are you think of the older 2.3L that are not the Duratec?
Hello, nice video! Does the transmission has a seal that might be replaced as well? Since you are working in this area.
+Ricky Santos The seal I used on this was national seal 710539 torque converter seal. But yes you absolutely want to replace both the rear seal and the torque converter seal . Just because of the difficulty to get to these seals after it's in as a rule of thumb it's always best to change them even if the miles are low. Also if you remove your cv axles make sure and replace the output or cv axle seals they are only 5 or 6 dollars but they can really leak. Also make sure to put lube or transmission fluid on the seals after getting them installed so you don't run them dry . Running them dry will ruin them real quick. Hope this helps and thanks for watching
Gonna leak the seal needs a tool to fit so it faces inwards