A bit advertorial but Simon is a real expert. I watched the Q&A he did with Jocko a few episodes back and it was a great show. You pack a lot in to these short vids, which are great. Thanks!
Love this. Here's a suggestion: How about you guys (the community) get in touch with a developer, to create a proper 4WD simulator, with the game aspects of the likes of Euro Truck Simulator and American Truck Simulator (home base, rig and trailer purchase and set-up, driving, damage, ...). Maybe to allow for players creating their own storyline, you could even include having to find a suitable spot and set up camp, before you can save your progress if you're leaving the game for the day. And a large choice of vehicles, or at least mod support would be nice to. Not just the big names and newest rigs. I for one would love to go wheeling with a back to basics rig. Suzuki Samurai (Sierra) or Jeep CJ5, or maybe even one of the very first Suzuki LJ models, the LJ50 or even the LJ20, and maybe at best a small teardrop trailer.
Never load your vehicle beyond it's GVM. If you do, and shit goes wrong, your insurer isn't going to cover you, and you will be held liable for negligence, as Shauno said in his video about setting your 4WD up to tow.
@@alexanderralph8341 reality is, most of these bent frames are from weight in the wrong area. Utes with a large "camper" tray with weight way past the axle. Or they are towing a trailer way to fast and hit a washout too fast, front of car goes up, rear axel falls in, weight on the ball compresses down and the weakest point on the chassis, where the cab ends, let's go.
@@AnarchyEnsues Most Jap utes don't need to be towing to trash the chassis, I've seen a lot that have never towed and never seen corrogations, they still crack on UK highway only use. so it's not that, what it is ois poor chassis design, it's been like it for 40 years until the latest chassis generation that have coils. That chassis is braced and deeper at the crack point, it's only taken Toyota 40 years to sort a possible solution to it! Most Jap run a similar design thin chassis. Never happens on a Land Rover as the chassis is over twice the depth there. That should tell you something? 75 years of deep chassis, no failures. I have written a few comments above as to what and why and why the advice in this video is misleading and in places wrong. I've been doing suspension and mechanical engineering for 35 years, so know a thing or two... 🙂
Hey Shawno I think it would be really cool if you brought back a 60 series on a 4wd trip I know not many people are willing to risk panel damage and all that on an antique car but I think it would make for a good episode.👌😀 also you could put a 60 80 79 and 200 on a trip that would be the coolest.
It's very annoying I have flexly coils and I can't ever get them to sit right. They always stag. But I love their performance off-road on slow flexi things.
Still puzzles me why so many chose a Double Cab to go off-road. Why not a Single Cab? It would allow using a bigger camper as better weight distribution.
Few reasons why i personally bought a double instead of a single and i think it applies to most: the capability to have more than 2 people in the car, even if mostly its just 2 Resale value is fair better with a dual cab Security/saftey for gear i dont want in my tray/canopy as its a lift off canopy Theres a fair few more but these are the main
The axle in most utes are too far forward with too much overhang. Loading a large canopy excessively with heavy items behind the rear wheel & tow with a heavy towball weight hit washout = a bent chassis .I have seen this on numerous occasions Cape York & N.T. on many different brands of utes. Leave more crap at home you don’t need.
The explanation of the spring load is wrong, you don't fit the spring rate to the load, you make the load to the spring rate, you do however fit the best spring rate for the AXLE LOAD, that is determined by MAM/GVM and individual axle loads by the plate data. So if your axle has a max load of 1850kg, you put in a spring (usually standard or factory HD), you then load to that point as max loading, at this point the correct spring should have over half of it's compression capability still left and still clear of the bump stop. Giving a higher spring rate than necessary will just make the ride harsher, create micro vibrations in the chassis and fracture it faster, do more damage and wear to all vehicle components and basically, make the ride terrible and uncomfortable. Also it encourages overloading as it still looks ok. We all know there is a high proportion of AU utes that are overloaded and above MAM/GVM.
Damper should not be fully extended at max droop, it should have about 15mm ideally more travel than the spring can droop, this stops bottom out damage, the bumpstop should stop topping out damage. If there is max droop at the point the damper is also fully extended then a tether MUST be used. this stops the axle over-extending the damper. if you don't understand this then look at Series Land Rovers and UK military Sankey trailers, they all have travel limiting on the springs to stop damper damage.
its not basic knowledge. not for a lot of people. it is to the mechanically minded and those who do their own mods. A huge portion of people will get shops to mod and maintain their cars which is absolutely fine. showing this helps those who want to start out and give modding a go for themselves. its not like you HAVE to watch every episode they put out.
A bit advertorial but Simon is a real expert. I watched the Q&A he did with Jocko a few episodes back and it was a great show. You pack a lot in to these short vids, which are great. Thanks!
Joco is the new main man 👨 in 4WD - 24-7, I think and it suits him him well.
He does alright old jocko
love how shows drop as soon as i get home from work and crack open an adult beverage
An adult beverage?
just saw beer bro
@@Lewiss248 maybe he drinks seltzers?
@@squidballs44 sometimes beer and other times premixes.. mostly rum based
@@shadowdarter I knew that would get ya! no bloke likes being accused of drinking seltzers😂
Love this.
Here's a suggestion: How about you guys (the community) get in touch with a developer, to create a proper 4WD simulator, with the game aspects of the likes of Euro Truck Simulator and American Truck Simulator (home base, rig and trailer purchase and set-up, driving, damage, ...).
Maybe to allow for players creating their own storyline, you could even include having to find a suitable spot and set up camp, before you can save your progress if you're leaving the game for the day.
And a large choice of vehicles, or at least mod support would be nice to. Not just the big names and newest rigs.
I for one would love to go wheeling with a back to basics rig. Suzuki Samurai (Sierra) or Jeep CJ5, or maybe even one of the very first Suzuki LJ models, the LJ50 or even the LJ20, and maybe at best a small teardrop trailer.
A new suspension won't prevent a bent chassis. Only your driving and proper loading will prevent it.
A chassis extension is the only way to prevent it from
Never load your vehicle beyond it's GVM. If you do, and shit goes wrong, your insurer isn't going to cover you, and you will be held liable for negligence, as Shauno said in his video about setting your 4WD up to tow.
@@alexanderralph8341 reality is, most of these bent frames are from weight in the wrong area.
Utes with a large "camper" tray with weight way past the axle.
Or they are towing a trailer way to fast and hit a washout too fast, front of car goes up, rear axel falls in, weight on the ball compresses down and the weakest point on the chassis, where the cab ends, let's go.
@@AnarchyEnsues Most Jap utes don't need to be towing to trash the chassis, I've seen a lot that have never towed and never seen corrogations, they still crack on UK highway only use. so it's not that, what it is ois poor chassis design, it's been like it for 40 years until the latest chassis generation that have coils. That chassis is braced and deeper at the crack point, it's only taken Toyota 40 years to sort a possible solution to it! Most Jap run a similar design thin chassis. Never happens on a Land Rover as the chassis is over twice the depth there. That should tell you something? 75 years of deep chassis, no failures. I have written a few comments above as to what and why and why the advice in this video is misleading and in places wrong.
I've been doing suspension and mechanical engineering for 35 years, so know a thing or two... 🙂
Ohhhh yess great video
Come to New Zealand guys different scenery guys
Awesome video as always Jocko.
Just installed my tough dog suspension
Loving it
It depends on how much load you have on back and overhang past axle.
Hey Shawno I think it would be really cool if you brought back a 60 series on a 4wd trip I know not many people are willing to risk panel damage and all that on an antique car but I think it would make for a good episode.👌😀 also you could put a 60 80 79 and 200 on a trip that would be the coolest.
@@Robroy1985 yeah true that 2ht his been rebuilding making videos on recently? Keen as to see it hit some tuff tracks.
Now can ya do one on tires for dual cabs for us tradies that work hard all week then wanna hit the tracks on the weekend-not muddy roads 👍🏼
Whenever I watch these videos I always dream of building a superlight weight Jimney. Under 1000KG target.
or a sierra stockman 😍
How about Shock Absorber, Offroad better use Oil or Gas shock absorber?
Hey guys, how would you know the correct leaf spring to choose?
I have a chassis mount canopy and unsure what kgs rating to get
It's very annoying I have flexly coils and I can't ever get them to sit right. They always stag. But I love their performance off-road on slow flexi things.
Still puzzles me why so many chose a Double Cab to go off-road. Why not a Single Cab? It would allow using a bigger camper as better weight distribution.
Unfortunately it’s still illegal to put the family in canopy I guess 😂
@@bluebludded In the channel they do their tourer mostly alone.
Few reasons why i personally bought a double instead of a single and i think it applies to most: the capability to have more than 2 people in the car, even if mostly its just 2
Resale value is fair better with a dual cab
Security/saftey for gear i dont want in my tray/canopy as its a lift off canopy
Theres a fair few more but these are the main
I hear you for hardcore off-road.
But i like to take a couple mates with me on the day I'm going off-road. So a dual cab was a must for me.
Extra cabs are the best of both worlds
need to put up what weight the canopy is so we know how it affects the springs
What brand is the front bar on the tough dog ranger?
With a 50mil lift on a next gen ranger with TD do you need to do the UC?
Ah, the ol'Triton bend.
Except all Dual cabs do it.
Purely due to rear axel too far forward as you probs know. They like to bounce hehe
Full send like the good old boys, Bo, and Luke duke wouldn't help either
The axle in most utes are too far forward with too much overhang. Loading a large canopy excessively with heavy items behind the rear wheel & tow with a heavy towball weight hit washout = a bent chassis .I have seen this on numerous occasions Cape York & N.T. on many different brands of utes. Leave more crap at home you don’t need.
bring your 79 back
👍
ye
❤❤
The explanation of the spring load is wrong, you don't fit the spring rate to the load, you make the load to the spring rate, you do however fit the best spring rate for the AXLE LOAD, that is determined by MAM/GVM and individual axle loads by the plate data. So if your axle has a max load of 1850kg, you put in a spring (usually standard or factory HD), you then load to that point as max loading, at this point the correct spring should have over half of it's compression capability still left and still clear of the bump stop.
Giving a higher spring rate than necessary will just make the ride harsher, create micro vibrations in the chassis and fracture it faster, do more damage and wear to all vehicle components and basically, make the ride terrible and uncomfortable. Also it encourages overloading as it still looks ok. We all know there is a high proportion of AU utes that are overloaded and above MAM/GVM.
Damper should not be fully extended at max droop, it should have about 15mm ideally more travel than the spring can droop, this stops bottom out damage, the bumpstop should stop topping out damage. If there is max droop at the point the damper is also fully extended then a tether MUST be used. this stops the axle over-extending the damper. if you don't understand this then look at Series Land Rovers and UK military Sankey trailers, they all have travel limiting on the springs to stop damper damage.
real men use coils
Is that because there're soft😅
What that actually means, is you carrying waaay more sh.t than what you're supposed to
1st person to watch
That's just an admission of mental illness!
Pp
Why show this it’s
Basic acknowledge and if you don’t know that you shouldn’t be driving a four-wheel-drive
its not basic knowledge. not for a lot of people. it is to the mechanically minded and those who do their own mods. A huge portion of people will get shops to mod and maintain their cars which is absolutely fine.
showing this helps those who want to start out and give modding a go for themselves.
its not like you HAVE to watch every episode they put out.
People have to learn somewhere. You were obviously born with knowledge of everything so don't watch it.
First comment
Mentally ill!