Question. If the first block is straight (based on a string coming off the building) and level can’t you just follow the string line to your ending point? In your case 13 feet out. What does the laser level do for you? Sorry I don’t totally understand.
Great video! I’m the same way on the footings 8”-10” of base rock, compacted in 2”-3” lifts. They say your suppose to bury 1” of the bottom block per 1’ of wall height. But I always bury a full block too. Would rather do the job once then have to come back. After the footing the drain and clean rock behind the wall is the next most important part. That takes all the pressure off the wall. I have tore out a ton of failing walls due to no drain or clean rock. Keep up the great work! I’m glad I found the channel. I’ve only had a channel for a few months but I have met some really cool people. Sorry for the long comment! Look forward to more videos!
Elite Earthworks LLC You are 100% correct my friend! It’s all about the base and drainage behind the wall! We go overkill because of what you said! I only want to do the job once 👍🏼 Thanks for the input man I really appreciate it! 🙂
@UCuxp_wWF1AhRhFfEx9M1ttg Who are you replying to? I'm just over harassing Elite Earthworks. On a side note, It is in the homeowners best interest to ask if the contractor is bonded, licensed, and insured, BUT it is not a requirement to know otherwise. If you're over here just being mad at Nickens, well, you are the only one that will be waisting your energy with anger. Have a pleasant day! Go sub to my channel while your at it too. You will enjoy it!
Get yourself the Quick-E Wall screed and they're Craft60 mallet. Both are good sends if you put up a lot of walls. My guys were going through a dead blow a week setting base course, we haven't even really dented the Craft60 yet this entire season. We usually do about 4-5,000 sq ft of walls a year and those tools have made our job so much easier. Next investment is a BL450. We have a 180 but it's too slow
Thomas Strzelecki I just ordered the wall screed... we’re starting our last wall of the season this week and this should be here Thursday so I’m looking forward to using it!
Thomas Strzelecki will definitely check those out! We have the quick-E BL180 and it’s a great product! Guess I need to check out some more of their items! Appreciate the input 🙂👍🏼
Hello, I am having a massive versa-lok wall (2100 sf) installed that will be holding up a hill on both sides of the house. The masons are using crushed concrete on top of compacted dirt and then a concrete and clean fill mix on top as the base. I thought the concrete would be hard but when push my finger down in can drill down the concrete slab and my finger goes through. The wall is in progress and looks flat and stable but am worried if the base is correct. The soil is actually alot more like clean fill it looks like fine sand so I asked them to use filter fabric between the dirt and gravel but not on the face of the blocks. They have used a drainage pipe in the back and will be drilling relief holes on the bottom blocks. Can you or anyone with proper experience advise if the base material is correct and also if the use of filter fabric is a good idea to hold up the fine sand which makes up the dirt in place?
I’m not sure what you mean by crushed concrete. We use crushed rock mixed with clean rock. So it could be viewed as crushed concrete I guess. As long as they compacted as they went and the base was compact-able stone you should be ok. The filter fabric will be ok as long as it is very permeable, stuff that is this and not so permeable will clog and hold water resulting in a failed wall. A lot goes into these walls and not every wall is the same.
Hello, I am having a massive versa-lok wall (2100 sf) installed that will be holding up a hill on both sides of the house. The masons are using crushed concrete on top of compacted dirt and then a concrete and clean fill mix on top as the base. I thought the concrete would be hard but when push my finger down in can drill down the concrete slab and my finger goes through. The wall is in progress and looks flat and stable but am worried if the base is correct. The soil is actually alot more like clean fill it looks like fine sand so I asked them to use filter fabric between the dirt and gravel but not on the face of the blocks. They have used a drainage pipe in the back and will be drilling relief holes on the bottom blocks. Can you or anyone with proper experience advise if the base material is correct and also if the use of filter fabric is a good idea to hold up the fine sand which makes up the dirt in place?
Question. If the first block is straight (based on a string coming off the building) and level can’t you just follow the string line to your ending point? In your case 13 feet out. What does the laser level do for you? Sorry I don’t totally understand.
The laser is for grade not to make it straight
Great video! I’m the same way on the footings 8”-10” of base rock, compacted in 2”-3” lifts. They say your suppose to bury 1” of the bottom block per 1’ of wall height. But I always bury a full block too. Would rather do the job once then have to come back. After the footing the drain and clean rock behind the wall is the next most important part. That takes all the pressure off the wall. I have tore out a ton of failing walls due to no drain or clean rock. Keep up the great work! I’m glad I found the channel. I’ve only had a channel for a few months but I have met some really cool people. Sorry for the long comment! Look forward to more videos!
Elite Earthworks LLC You are 100% correct my friend! It’s all about the base and drainage behind the wall! We go overkill because of what you said! I only want to do the job once 👍🏼 Thanks for the input man I really appreciate it! 🙂
Well I know who im calling next spring, lol. I'll pay for gas, woo hoo!
@UCuxp_wWF1AhRhFfEx9M1ttg Who are you replying to? I'm just over harassing Elite Earthworks. On a side note, It is in the homeowners best interest to ask if the contractor is bonded, licensed, and insured, BUT it is not a requirement to know otherwise. If you're over here just being mad at Nickens, well, you are the only one that will be waisting your energy with anger. Have a pleasant day! Go sub to my channel while your at it too. You will enjoy it!
G4 Outdoors I agree! I may even call them for my walls!
Very informative video! I like how you are breaking down the process and sharing with us! 💪🏽👍🏽👍🏼
Shawn Henry Thanks Shawn! I’m all about helping the next guy and this is the best way I see fit! Thank you for all of your support and input 😀
Great work Brother!👍
Rufus LC Thank you Sir!
Get yourself the Quick-E Wall screed and they're Craft60 mallet. Both are good sends if you put up a lot of walls. My guys were going through a dead blow a week setting base course, we haven't even really dented the Craft60 yet this entire season. We usually do about 4-5,000 sq ft of walls a year and those tools have made our job so much easier. Next investment is a BL450. We have a 180 but it's too slow
Thomas Strzelecki I just ordered the wall screed... we’re starting our last wall of the season this week and this should be here Thursday so I’m looking forward to using it!
Thomas Strzelecki will definitely check those out! We have the quick-E BL180 and it’s a great product! Guess I need to check out some more of their items! Appreciate the input 🙂👍🏼
Great!!
Thanks
Does that first layer require pins somehow into the gravel or is it stabilized only with front and back gravel?
No pins on the base course.
No pins for the base course. The front and back pressure hold the base row in place
Hello,
I am having a massive versa-lok wall (2100 sf) installed that will be holding up a hill on both sides of the house. The masons are using crushed concrete on top of compacted dirt and then a concrete and clean fill mix on top as the base. I thought the concrete would be hard but when push my finger down in can drill down the concrete slab and my finger goes through. The wall is in progress and looks flat and stable but am worried if the base is correct. The soil is actually alot more like clean fill it looks like
fine sand so I asked them to use filter fabric between the dirt and gravel but not on the face of the blocks. They have used a drainage pipe in the back and will be drilling relief holes on the bottom blocks. Can you or anyone with proper experience advise if the base material is correct and also if the use of filter fabric is a good idea to hold up the fine sand which makes up the dirt in place?
I’m not sure what you mean by crushed concrete. We use crushed rock mixed with clean rock. So it could be viewed as crushed concrete I guess. As long as they compacted as they went and the base was compact-able stone you should be ok. The filter fabric will be ok as long as it is very permeable, stuff that is this and not so permeable will clog and hold water resulting in a failed wall. A lot goes into these walls and not every wall is the same.
Is your base minus or 3/4 clean? What’s the hole between the blocks on the bottom course for?
Kyle Mackenzie 3/4 clean. That hole was for a downspout we had to run out the front that had to be buried 👍🏼
@@nickenslandscapingexcavating why do you use the 3/4 clean vs the minus base? What is the advantage?
@@danielwade4009 Did you ever find out? That's what I want to know as well.
Get yourself a set of versa lifters if you don’t have them! They make moving those blocks much easier
Scott Whittam We actually don’t have them... On my list. I have always borrowed a buddies and we also have the Pavetool Quick-E BL180 👍🏼
Nickens Lawn & Landscape yes I have a paver extractor from them! Works well for re leveling patios here in western New York
i agree the virsa lifters are amazing they are finger savers
Awesome work!! Can you do a step by step retainer wall video like you did with the pavers
Where did you get your stick laser level from? I checked with Russo Lawn equipment, but they only had the bigger tripod ones thanks.
Daniel Pedi I bought it on Craigslist. It is a spectra. They make great lasers 👍🏼
You should learn how to use a level
Hello,
I am having a massive versa-lok wall (2100 sf) installed that will be holding up a hill on both sides of the house. The masons are using crushed concrete on top of compacted dirt and then a concrete and clean fill mix on top as the base. I thought the concrete would be hard but when push my finger down in can drill down the concrete slab and my finger goes through. The wall is in progress and looks flat and stable but am worried if the base is correct. The soil is actually alot more like clean fill it looks like
fine sand so I asked them to use filter fabric between the dirt and gravel but not on the face of the blocks. They have used a drainage pipe in the back and will be drilling relief holes on the bottom blocks. Can you or anyone with proper experience advise if the base material is correct and also if the use of filter fabric is a good idea to hold up the fine sand which makes up the dirt in place?