Can You Girth Hitch a Picket with a Dyneema Sling?
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- Опубликовано: 9 мар 2024
- Thanks to AlpineSavvy! Follow him at / alpinesavvy
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Ask John where he can find some 18 kN snow.
Haha. Ya good luck finding 8kn snow
I'd be really impressed if a snow picket in the wild held 10kn in the first place.
I'd be equally impressed if you could generate even 3kn in a mountaineering fall.
Remember the pack may be quite heavy; ice provides less friction than rock; and there may be a lot of rockfall or snow/ ice avalanche weight.
@craigbritton1089 ice may generate less friction than rock, but that's irrelevant. It generates *significantly* more friction than air.
Most rock climbing falls don't involve tumbling down a rock face, grinding as you fall, (and if one does, you'll have bigger issues than calculating how many kn your fall will generate).
In mountaineering, however, you're not climbing vertical or overhanging snow. Snow pickets are typically catching falls that involve sliding down slopes, not free-falling through the air, so you're really not generating very much force. And that's good, because the snow that a picket is placed in will *never* be able to hold 10kn, so it truly doesn't matter if the picket won't either.
Avalanches are equally irrelevant; if the slope you're on slides, the picket won't catch you, because it would be sliding with you.
@@simonsimon9880 it depends on where the avalanche was coming from. I have heard of pickets helping.
And there are plenty of mountain climbs that have vertical and overhanging sections. And plenty of rock climbs that have sliding and tumbling if you fall.
I suspect I have been climbing for decades longer than you.
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I girth-hitch Amsteel slings to my ascenders. I built an analogue aluminum plate to test; about 3000 lbs to break. I feel that's good enough, since no rope would survive that force, and now I don't have to take crap from people who tell me tribal knowledge. This channel taught me to test things rather than live in fear.
The quicklink-thingy in the SMC 'wire kit' for pickets have an MBS of only 575lb?! Please test this.
@BurchellattheWharf It's about how many equalized legs you are working with. If you wrap it three times and girth it anyway, you shouldn't see numbers higher than the first test; maybe a tiny bit, but not enough to matter.
I thought girth hitching slings always reduces the strength around 50% so I would have guessed it would break when it did. The only time I hitch a sling is if I'm using the 40kN Camp truck loop sling.
Seems like the eye has a pretty sharp edge. A rounder drop-in piece of metal might raise the load limit?
SMC sells one... it has an MBS of 575lbs, no joke.
@Nicholas-cm6rx wait, which part might break at 575lbs? What's the point of something that won't even hold 3kn?
Or just use a biner like you're supposed to. 🤷♂️
Unless you use a new picket every time, this is not entirely accurate
Absolutely, work hardening is a thing.
How many kN is the snow though?
But but but you're not Ryan Jenks!!!!!
Question, what if you wrapped it threw the hole twice or three times 🤔
Did you watch the whole thing? The aluminum breaks first
@@jonahhekmatyar well I made this comment moments before they snapped the aluminum actually, to be quiet honest, but that was a stronger looked cord I think.
But the other weaker cord loops , is the ones I was referring too as the snapped in the hitch at the aluminum
@@BurchellAtTheWharf they are the same sling, they just used a longer one to do the multiple wraps
@@jonahhekmatyar well the longer sling was doubled up, and then used as a basket with one pass through on the angle aluminum, I was thinking of wrapping around the aluminum two or three times and using the hitch, to sea it it would get more mbs