Thank you for another interesting and informative video. While I may not be able to always take advantage of everything in your videos they are well-made, informative, and interesting. Your site to help with 3D printer configuration and fixing errors is amazing. Thanks for everything you contribute to the community.
That board is more troublesome than the ones I showcased here. The viewer Bryan who requested this video recommended a help video which is linked in the description.
For the "onboard 5v regulators" most boards use AMS1117-5V ICs, which can output 1A without issue. With WS2812B strips (neopixel) consuming 50Ma max on average if you're really, really pushing it (NOT 60-80, if yours are consuming that much, they're damaged and can catch fire or melt), it will take a lot of diodes in the strip to consume that much. If you're not using the USB port to power anything, and not using the display (klipper peeps), you're fine using the board's 5V regulator/-s.
RGB lights are useful when they are set in macros. So you can see at a glace what the printer is doing. I set mine to red for heating up, White for printing so i can see the print well with the webcam and some other colors for various macros like filament change.
When I added neopixels to my Marlin instance, enabling the reactive colors disabled the ability to continue paused prints in terminal with M600 due to a known bug in Marlin.
If you are using an external power supply (i.e. wall wart) instead of the mainboard, you will have to split the ground wire on the strip and have one from power and one to the board. The signal pin needs reference to ground on the board.
Excellent guide! Couple questions though. I have a Creality 4.2.7 board, would I plug the data line into the port right next to the display port? Also, could I power 15 leds from that port, or do I need a converter? I have no other devices plugged in
Nice Guide, Unfortunate I had the Problem that the Signal Voltage was only 3.3V and I did not find a PWM Pin with 5V. Had to use a arduino nano as a secondary mcu in klipper for this to work.
Your videos are so informative! I am an electrician/instrument tech that turned industrial project design engineer with some PLC programming knowledge. This seems like it should be simple for me, but I am slightly nervous to smoke one of my printers. I have an Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2 Neo, and an Ender 3 S1 Plus. I did buy the Sonic pad, but it is still in the box as I am unsure of which printer I want to apply it to.
Just FYI. For Klipper/Fluid, you can not use the Pi's GPIO pins directly to run the Neopixel. The onboard Linux process is unable to reliably meet the Neopixel timing requirements. (Octoprint somehow has a solution)
@@chaicracker there is a Octoprint plugin that allows you to use the GPIO pins. Or, you get the control signal from the main board. On a BTT 1.3 I connected to the servo pins. I plan to use the dedicated Neopixel interface on my soon to arrive BTT Octopus board.
I haven't worked out how much current my 6 stepper Ender5 uses but I'd get a dedicated PSU for things like this (not forgetting to common the ground rails) rather than put any more load on the printer power supply
i think i knocked 20watts off my ender 3 power consumption by insulating the bed. at normal speeds with marlin it was 110watts i think. so down to 90w while printing with an insulated bed
Michael, any chance trying to get Neopixels to work on Ender 3 with the 4.2.2 or the 4.2.7 main board with Klipper? I have tried connecting the data pin to the pin PA14 of the 4.2.2 board and was not able to get it working. I also enabled the GPIO pins on the PI also no luck. On both I used an external 5vdc power. Thanks for the HELP in advanced...
There is one major issue with neopixels (based on ws2812), they don't like 3.3V logic level if powered with 5V (which is their standard power supply), it won't damage anything, just won't work and can give you a headache, there are several solutions (it's not trivial since it needs pretty fast timmings), cheapest one is sacrifice pixel.
Nice! I like the idea of functional color changes. I wonder if there is a way to side mount some of the LEDs on the Ender3 setup to prevent that downward shadow casting.
I already have a pi 3 powered using a buck converter from a howchoo tutorial online using XT60 Y spliter cables. If I was to connect leds, would I have to run them on a seperate buck convertor from the PSU?
Yeah Neopixel is the brand name Adafruit gave their strips that's stuck as a common way to refer to a couple of close variants: WS2812, WS2812b, and WS2811. Kinda like how Americans call tissues Kleenex.
Hey, after I watched the Video about Klipper I changed my Prusa to Klipper and can't find a good Config. My first Config was not okay and I burn my Hotend. It would be perfect if you can make a video about changing from stock Prusa to Klipper. With flashing the bootloader.
@Teaching Tech can klipper do the color changing of the rgb strip as printer status like marlin for the temp changing and all white when printing...??? Thanks
@Teaching Tech Have you taken a look at the BTT Octopus by any chance? It’s basically the same price as a E3 mini v2 but way more capable (and not quite as simple to install)
You should be able to do it with your slicer if it supports variables. Then have the gcode run on layer change evaluating the print progress and lighting up the correct number of pixels.
Completely unnecessarya and complicated, I added a remotely controlled LED light strip to monitor printing progress with PI camera on Octoprint. Works like a charm when certain color contrast or brightness needs to be adjusted for better visibility, works like charm for timelapses too.
Marlin is not the best for neopixel. Just learn how to use klipper with delayed_gcode. For example you can set this way temperature-controlled led's, progress controlled lines and rainbows after print without using stupid slicer plugins.
The timing of this video couldn't be more perfect. I've just finished my voron 2.4 and 5 meters of neopixels just arrived in the mail today.
5 meter wtf lol
Thank you for another interesting and informative video. While I may not be able to always take advantage of everything in your videos they are well-made, informative, and interesting. Your site to help with 3D printer configuration and fixing errors is amazing. Thanks for everything you contribute to the community.
I attached my addressable RGB strip directly to raspberry pi running octoprint and for me it's the best solution
this is actually a really good idea!
just don't add too many LEDs to it, the pi's pins and usb port can only handle so much current
@@littlenyancat5754 i have 30+ neopixels but they're all powered from an external dc-dc converter, pi is only for signal
Literally last weekend I installed an skr mini e3 v2. I saw the neopixel port and thought "wonder what that is for". This is super cool.
That board is more troublesome than the ones I showcased here. The viewer Bryan who requested this video recommended a help video which is linked in the description.
Its like you have been watching me and know what i needed help with.
For the "onboard 5v regulators" most boards use AMS1117-5V ICs, which can output 1A without issue. With WS2812B strips (neopixel) consuming 50Ma max on average if you're really, really pushing it (NOT 60-80, if yours are consuming that much, they're damaged and can catch fire or melt), it will take a lot of diodes in the strip to consume that much. If you're not using the USB port to power anything, and not using the display (klipper peeps), you're fine using the board's 5V regulator/-s.
RGB lights are useful when they are set in macros. So you can see at a glace what the printer is doing.
I set mine to red for heating up, White for printing so i can see the print well with the webcam and some other colors for various macros like filament change.
Thank you Michael for the red coloring, your vampire family in Europe always loves you
'i've chosen to call my setup neo because it is the one' 😂
When I added neopixels to my Marlin instance, enabling the reactive colors disabled the ability to continue paused prints in terminal with M600 due to a known bug in Marlin.
there is an updated Adafruit library for Marlin that is supposed to fix this, but I have not tested it yet.
If you are using an external power supply (i.e. wall wart) instead of the mainboard, you will have to split the ground wire on the strip and have one from power and one to the board. The signal pin needs reference to ground on the board.
Excellent guide! Couple questions though. I have a Creality 4.2.7 board, would I plug the data line into the port right next to the display port? Also, could I power 15 leds from that port, or do I need a converter? I have no other devices plugged in
Nice Guide, Unfortunate I had the Problem that the Signal Voltage was only 3.3V and I did not find a PWM Pin with 5V. Had to use a arduino nano as a secondary mcu in klipper for this to work.
Your videos are so informative! I am an electrician/instrument tech that turned industrial project design engineer with some PLC programming knowledge. This seems like it should be simple for me, but I am slightly nervous to smoke one of my printers. I have an Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2 Neo, and an Ender 3 S1 Plus. I did buy the Sonic pad, but it is still in the box as I am unsure of which printer I want to apply it to.
Just FYI. For Klipper/Fluid, you can not use the Pi's GPIO pins directly to run the Neopixel. The onboard Linux process is unable to reliably meet the Neopixel timing requirements. (Octoprint somehow has a solution)
Wait a sec, how do the people attach the Neopixels to Klipper then? Hoped I could use the Raspi GPIO pins for that :(
@@chaicracker there is a Octoprint plugin that allows you to use the GPIO pins. Or, you get the control signal from the main board. On a BTT 1.3 I connected to the servo pins. I plan to use the dedicated Neopixel interface on my soon to arrive BTT Octopus board.
I haven't worked out how much current my 6 stepper Ender5 uses but I'd get a dedicated PSU for things like this (not forgetting to common the ground rails) rather than put any more load on the printer power supply
i think i knocked 20watts off my ender 3 power consumption by insulating the bed. at normal speeds with marlin it was 110watts i think. so down to 90w while printing with an insulated bed
@@specialingu What did you use for insulation? Doing mine has been at the back of my mind for a while
@@specialingu this is very smart to do, but you still always have to take the highest possible power consumption possibility when figuring out load.
Michael, any chance trying to get Neopixels to work on Ender 3 with the 4.2.2 or the 4.2.7 main board with Klipper? I have tried connecting the data pin to the pin PA14 of the 4.2.2 board and was not able to get it working. I also enabled the GPIO pins on the PI also no luck. On both I used an external 5vdc power. Thanks for the HELP in advanced...
There is one major issue with neopixels (based on ws2812), they don't like 3.3V logic level if powered with 5V (which is their standard power supply), it won't damage anything, just won't work and can give you a headache, there are several solutions (it's not trivial since it needs pretty fast timmings), cheapest one is sacrifice pixel.
For anyone reading this now, this issue is easily addressed with a 3.3v5v logic level shifter in line with the control signal.
@@ManBearPigCreative Do you have any source for this solution that goes into more detail? I think I have this problem but don't know what to look for.
Great content, I learned so much from your Channel, keep up! 🙂 👍
Love the lowkey humour! "I called mine neo because it is the one"... hahahaha
Love the matrix reference
thank you very much, I learn a lot from your videos!
Nice! I like the idea of functional color changes. I wonder if there is a way to side mount some of the LEDs on the Ender3 setup to prevent that downward shadow casting.
I need this instruction video for my skr1.3/tft35 is this possible?
I need to install raspberry Pi 3b+ with panda pi2.9 for 64 bit 3d printing any procedures pls
I already have a pi 3 powered using a buck converter from a howchoo tutorial online using XT60 Y spliter cables. If I was to connect leds, would I have to run them on a seperate buck convertor from the PSU?
Is neopixel just branded 5v addressable RGB?
Yeah Neopixel is the brand name Adafruit gave their strips that's stuck as a common way to refer to a couple of close variants: WS2812, WS2812b, and WS2811.
Kinda like how Americans call tissues Kleenex.
Yes. This is in the video and the website.
Hey, after I watched the Video about Klipper I changed my Prusa to Klipper and can't find a good Config. My first Config was not okay and I burn my Hotend. It would be perfect if you can make a video about changing from stock Prusa to Klipper. With flashing the bootloader.
@Teaching Tech can klipper do the color changing of the rgb strip as printer status like marlin for the temp changing and all white when printing...??? Thanks
It is easier with the WLED project and an ESP8266 or ESP32.
Many greetings
juck.
I'm interested in using rgbw leds attached to my rpi camera so my pi can still monitor my prints even in low light situations
Add RGB to your 3D printer for faster prints and higher resolution.
@Teaching Tech
Have you taken a look at the BTT Octopus by any chance? It’s basically the same price as a E3 mini v2 but way more capable (and not quite as simple to install)
I have one here and it will be going on a Seckit SK-Tank build.
Does someone know where to find the 3D models that are visible in the backround of this video??
That's a nice overview. Thank you!
If I use RGBW, I just have to add WHITE?
Never used those ones but I would think so.
is it possible to code led like a progress bar of the printing?
You should be able to do it with your slicer if it supports variables. Then have the gcode run on layer change evaluating the print progress and lighting up the correct number of pixels.
There's an octoprint plug-in that will do just that with a WLED setup. Very simple and easy to setup WLED.
Hey man great videos. Quick question? Whats your favorite 3d printer ? Cheers
Does anyone have a sample how to program the progress of the print in RRF with dotstar?
Anyone know what data pin to use on a CR10S Pro?
Haven't you heard of a new Raspberry pi zero 2? maybe future tutorial to install raspberry pi zero 2 (octoprint) on Ender 3 v2...
What about JyersUI firmware?
please make one for octopi
ruclips.net/video/h--RLbvQKYc/видео.html
or you mean a Neopixel guide through Octoprint?
@@TeachingTech neopixel guide for octoprint since most of people using it to print and it has a lot of options. Thank you very much 😀
which firmware is better RRF or Klipper ?
Each has pros and cons. I wish I could combine my favourite pars of each.
i bet ocd people would die because one side of that led has 2 leds and the other has 3
I already have. This video good job.
1 amp seems high.
🔥💕😍👌👍
great video, but don't waste your time buying from the links 2 sets of strips + voltage converters $56USD + $200 shipping to Australia what BS
Completely unnecessarya and complicated, I added a remotely controlled LED light strip to monitor printing progress with PI camera on Octoprint.
Works like a charm when certain color contrast or brightness needs to be adjusted for better visibility, works like charm for timelapses too.
You do it your way, I'll do it mine. The difference is I'm not criticising you.
Marlin is not the best for neopixel. Just learn how to use klipper with delayed_gcode. For example you can set this way temperature-controlled led's, progress controlled lines and rainbows after print without using stupid slicer plugins.
So if I learn a more advanced technique in Klipper I can match what is available in Marlin with a single uncomment? Got it.
$24 for 5v 15LED strip? That’s EZMoney
lol.. TH3d products = overpriced aliexpress crap
soooo very true :)
what is the purpose? How does this help anything other than a childish fetish.
everyone knows it prints faster with leds
@@HelgeKeck lol
It's almost as if he states this at the end of the video 🤷♂️ I have 0 interest in it but others do want to add LEDs.
Easy progress indicators at a distance. I can just look at the current color of the LEDs rather than having to get closer to check
also, light can be used to see better