Gulikit Quality Control Issues (KingKong 2 Pro Teardown and Joystick Fix)
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- Опубликовано: 12 июл 2024
- How severe do you think this issue is? Has anyone else noticed this horrible issue on their Gulikit Kong Pro 2 Controller? You can find if you have the problem on yours here:
• There's Hall to be Pla... (timestamped at what it looks like from the outside)
Pick up one on Amazon below (Affiliate Link):
amzn.to/43YMLEI
Buy the KingKong Pro 2 Controller here (Non-affiliate):
www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
If you have any questions feel free to ask in the comment section below or contact me on Discord or Reddit. Thanks for watching!
Timestamps:
00:00 - Introduction
00:13 - Overview
00:54 - Removing the Back Panel
01:30 - Opening the Shell
03:02 - Broken Clips...
03:09 - Hardware First Look
04:08 - Ribbon cable & Rumble
05:07 - Removing the mainboard
07:11 - Buttons
07:30 - Removing the Triggers
08:40 - Battery and Triggers
11:40 - Motherboard and Joysticks
12:17 - Joystick Inspection
13:13 - Fixing the Joysticks
18:55 - Installing Motherboard, Bumpers, Triggers
24:29 - Installation Warning
27:16 - Final Touches and Shell
29:42 - Putting the back on
30:42 - Gulikit...
31:50 - Final Check
Intro theme song was written by Jim Gray of Our Ghosts. Check out his work here:
ourghosts.bandcamp.com/
This video is for entertainment and educational purposes only. 
Игры
Thanks,bro. Nice work. We gonna fix and make better! Thanks again.
Looking forward to seeing the revised product in the future! You guys have a great controller here and I'd love to see these issues addressed so more people can fully enjoy using it. Always great to see a company take feedback and make their products better.
WoW its the company it self!
I just bought your controller and its feels really good quality, on par with Xbox series controller 👍
@@KeiRetroGaming It is only the mold injection fill port and cause no function issue to the stick..Thanks again.
My B button broke and i replaced it with the A button the long life mechanical ones and its still broken. does it mean the problem lies in the circuit board?
@@GuliKit Hi. I'd like to report that my non-pro KingKong2 also suffered from the same problem with both sticks. Sanding down the imperfections fixed it. Hoping to see this fixed in later revisions since I really like this controller.
putting back the triggers is definitely the boss battle of this assembly
for me it was the RB button it just would not click the same after I took it apart. I had to take it apart again and make sure it was in place it needed some adjustment. I also had to take it apart a 3rd time to lupricate the X Y B A with some petroleum jelly. the button are mechanical and they start to squeak or get stuck. used a Q tip put the jelly and it was back to being smooth.
Very nice VOD you just did here! Everything one needs to know and expects from a VOD like this, done in the right way! Congrats!
Luckily for me, i've had no issues with my KingKong Pro 2. I've owned it for around 9 months, and it's an excellent Switch controller. Gulikit really needs to improve their quality control to greatly lessen the percentage of their controllers that malfunction. They have the potential to be the top choice manufacturer of high quality third party controllers if they get it together.
Thanks for the teardown! I've been thinking about getting one myself but wanted to see how difficult it was to disassemble before making up my mind and this video was perfect for that. I'll definitely keep this in mind if I ever need to take mine apart
Great to hear! Awesome controller and all things considered it's a lot easier to take apart compared to a dualsense or a few others.
Don't get it, it's a garbage controller.
@@redcrimson1028 What are the specific points that make you label this as garbage? Generally want to know. My 8bitdo SF30 PRO ABXY membrane is kaput and I want to use another brand.
@@bobmcbob4399 only issue I encountered was a sticky A button. First controller after two weeks had this issue. I returned it for another. Second controller after two or three days had the same issue. Instead of returning it I tried this tear down up to just accessing the A button and was able to fix my issue. Other than that no issues at all and I like everything else about it. Shouldn’t have to do that for a controller especially a new one but honestly it was super easy to do and all the buttons and triggers actually feel better than before. Other than that I like everything else about it.
@@beetee9654 That's good to know you are actually able to repair/improve the controller as an end user, and not have the thing implode as you accidentally break it during disassembly.
Just excess material not removed when snapped from mold, easy fix with a file or probably some flush cutters. Stuff happens - but should have been caught in QC/QA inspection. Fortunately an easy fix and not a common issue with these controllers (based on the multitude of reviews). Very well made and detailed video. 👍
small advice : 1st thing you always do before attempting anything is to take out the battery to prevent any shorts and component damage
Nice teardown vid!
Currently waiting for a delivery of a controller, if it has this issue I now know EXACTLY what to do - send back for a refund, inform every gamer I know to stay clear and put a complaint in with the platform selling it.
This is exactly what I needed, thank you. I kept fumbling the controller and all the buttons and boards had fallen out, i needed a video or something to make sure i put it back together properly and it's back to working. All I wanted was to preemptively fix all the sticky and squeaky button issues and ended up solving a puzzle.
Thanks for the teardown. Helped me get into my controller to fix a sticky B button. Seemed like more or less the same issue, some plastic flash was just long enough to interact with the button well. Just a few spots to file and button is working great now.
Thanks for this video. Was about to return my second controller with a sticky A button problem. So I figured to give it a try before returning it for a refund again. Followed your tear down video and was able to take the A button out and what I read somewhere someone mentioned to just pull out the two tabs outward a little on the button. It worked for me. It also was tough getting the board back on but I was able to by just loosening the left (right while flipped) trigger, zr trigger. At first I removed it but couldn’t screw it on with board in place. So it was easier just screwing the trigger on but keeping it super loose until I was able to wiggle the board in and then tighten everything. I also didn’t even bother taking the battery out. I tried at first but couldn’t pull the wire clip out and didn’t want to do the other steps. Got lucky I guess since I didn’t have any issues. This video helped tremendously though and my sticky A button resolved. All I used was a Philips and a plastic card too. And a eyeglass flat head to pull out the A button tabs some.
Thank you so much for this! I just bought the non-pro model and unfortunately *both* sticks suffered from the same exact problem. I sanded them down and now it's perfect.
As expected I broke both the plastic clips on each size but it simply doesn't matter once you reassemble it. Also you can totally remove the stick completely if you pull it gently upwards (hold the sensor with your hands not the PCB) so you don't have to risk getting debris inside and it's easier to sand it down.
Great to hear! I pulled the sticks completely off the second time when I went back in and sanded off the edge a bit more, much easier yep.
I really appreciate the detailed teardown, because this is a big selling point for me. This video made me want to buy this conroller just because it looks very repairable!
I consider the Xbox controllers (X360, XOne) or PlayStation (Dualshock 3/4) much easier to repair. This one's assembly is really tricky.
@@cyberangel82 I've only owned the XOne controller from your list, and it was decently repairable. I unfortunatly messed up my soldering and destroyed it, forcing me to buy a new controller. I ended up going with an 8BitDo controller.
did you miss the part where broke the plastic clips when opening it?
okay im gonna be honest, i stayed cause the asmr vibe. HOWEVER i was thinking about buying a couple of these bad boys, and thx to you and vCuda now im def gonna buy it. Really appreciate this in debt video, great work pal.
I'm sure you'll have fun with the controller, still the best one I've ever used minus the quality control issues. Sounds like the company is looking at improving which is always great to see.
Amazingly useful. I plan on buying this controller and swapping the nintendo layout for a PC one right out of the box, so this video is very helpful. Also, quite soothing.
My left joystick kind of grinds as you rotate it after owning it for ~9? months? and gets offset stuck in a position slightly on my Pro2 when I let go unless I manually leave it at center '0'. Drives me bonkers, and has led me down a path to this exact video, thank you. I'm considering opening my controller after watching several teardowns, including your own here, to see about a bit of plastic causing the extra friction I feel.
Out of everyone I happen to have seen, you've given me the most direct potential answer to this trouble I have. I appreciate your help, very much.
Thank you so much for the teardown! I have a different issue with my joystick cap: it’s off center. The sticks themselves are fine, & it’s not the rubber topper- it’s the cap with the stem. I tweeted at them so I hope they get back to me. Great video though!
Got mine today. Flawless in every regard (both triggers and joysticks)
NIce Teardown! you can actually remove the cap, I changed mine with an old xbox one controller and is 100% compatible with the controller.
Mind linking me what you bought as now I'm curious as to what else is compatible with it. Thanks.
@GreenChii this. Let us know
???
This video helped a bunch. After a while without use, i noticed my controller's right joystick was getting stuck in a spot. After following steps from another silent video and then this one, I saw that one of the blue magnets had detached from the stick sensor. After moving it back in place and sealing it up everything seems to be working.
My button was knocked off when the controller slam into the ground and I foolishly put in the wrong order, I needed to see how to disassemble the controller to be able to help me out. This video helps a lot, thank you
Glad I could help!
I’ve been looking for others with issues with this controller and I’m glad I found this!
For some bizarre reason, the gear button doubles as the program button AND my Y button, while the actual Y button does nothing.
Gulikit has failed to connect with me about getting it repaired and I feel incredibly scammed.
Have you contacted the official store on AliExpress?
@@KeiRetroGaming do i contact the aliexpress store even tho I bought it somewhere else?
Glad this came up when I recently had a problem with my B button that started to sound squeaky and added a little bit of lubricant in it, great teardown, helped me alot now that I know how to disassemble every part
Glad you found it helpful! Great controller so I'm happy to see yours working well.
Update: I also broke one of the clips on the back case of the controller, but I found out that you did as well and now I feel less disappointed cuz I'm not the only one who did lmao
The screws hold it together so you don't notice a gap even with the clips broken. When I went back the second time I broke the other clip too... Honestly those clips are really thin but they don't hold much. I wouldn't worry about it.
dude, seeing revenant as your profile pic i guess u have used this controller to play apex and i want to know how does it feel, can you tell me someting about it?
@@unkrazy2782 i guess the vibration of the controller's pretty neat, but i don't usually use the controller to play apex; only tried it, and i guess the accurate sensitivity of the analog can significantly help u in aiming
Thank you for this!! :D Just fixed a sticky button by rotating the switches, this video came in handy
this helped me replace my A and B buttons. thanks man
You're welcome, glad it helped. Always great to hear!
Thank you for the video.
First, a couple of points:
Ive been able to open my controller multiple times without scratches or broken clips. Your technique works perfect, only go slow and dont rush it.
After buying 2 controllers with identical "sticky right trigger" issue, And really wanting to keep this controller, I went ahead and took it apart following your steps.
The right trigger clearances are slightly tighter on the return motion. The little rubber bumper where the back portion of the trigger rests (with the magnet) will slide up causing the trigger to not come down properly. Glue the rubber bumper and problem solved. Not sure why only happens on the right trigger.
Thanks for pointing that out fix for the community. As I didn't have any issues with my triggers I didn't know how to fix that problem, this was the other big issue that seemed to plague this wonderful controller. Thanks again!
@@KeiRetroGaming It is a common issue lately. Gilikit is not doing quality control/testing on this units. My issue started during first try on both units. Also, a few secret facts: You can use the controller wireless...by running it in nintendo mode with the brook wingman.
And second,....the trigger sensitivity adjustment only works when in Windows mode....
hey I’m having the same problem with my controller, but with both triggers. Can you explain this further in depth because I’m not really sure what exactly to do and I don’t want to damage my controller further.
Been using it for months now! I got that button squeak and sticking but fixed it thanks to this teardown vid, other than buttons problem I also hear metal on metal contact on the triggers, seemed like they didn't lube the trigger so the spring is rubbing on the metal
I just got it, yesterday. Noticed right bumper is scratchy. Played with it for only a few hours and not the B button is making a squeaky noise. I open RUclips to check if there is a fix and this video pops up no. 1 on recommendations. Godamnitt
I own a refurbished Gulikit King King 2 Pro $50 great price, and am very impressed with it. The weight and feel of the gamepad, joysticks, triggers, and buttons are amazing. Your teardown shows the gamepad is solidly built, and good to see mostly hall effect sensors for triggers and sticks. I would be very confident replacing the battery, but it still lasts over 22+ hours, so way better than 8bitdo. Only gripe is that the Gulikit KK2 Pro doesn't work in Genshin impact mobile on iOS. Unless someone knows of a hack or workaround. If this gamepad was produced in USA, or Europe, it would probably cost USD150+ . So happy that it is made in China. Great video, thank you. I didn't realise Gulikit are such a small company compared to 8bitDo, and some of the 8BitDo controllers use the same hall effect sensor as Gulikit.
Thank you for the teardown process! My problem is that the A switch is very sticky and make a griding sound when press. I disassembled the switch, move the spring a little, assemble everything, and it fix the problem. I love this controller a lot but having to open it up is a bit disappointing.
You're welcome, glad I could help! Gulikit sells replacement buttons but if you ask them on the official Ali store I'm sure they'd send you a few replacement switches if that happens again. Can't say I've had that with either of my two controllers but that's a shame to see. It really is a disappointment to have to open it up for things like what you had and the joystick issue. I'll have to keep an eye on my button switches now too, thanks for the heads up! Glad you managed to fix your controller.
I have the exact same problem... If i press it and move just a little bit to any side the button gets stuck and you have to try to get it out to be able to use it, so kinda hard for fighter games
So this can be easily fixed by just moving the button?
@@axsvue I disassembled the entire switch because I think problem is that the spring is grinding with the plastic casing of the switch making the sound and cause it to not expand when being press.
So I just rotate the spring a bit so that it would not get stuck at the same place when I assemble everything.
Thank you for the video. I've used this video to open up the KK2P, wanting to switch the A-B and X-Y keycaps. But then I realised they are physically uniquely shaped, and changing them would make the whole feel off. I'll (or you'll) need to new key caps if you intend to change them around. It's just weird looking at the buttons to press in-game, and having to press the opposite.
Thanks! You can buy the other button layout here from the official store:
a.aliexpress.com/_mMqRE0u
Oh well. Wish I read your comment before taking it apart. Well, it's just cosmetic anyway.
Glad you were able to fix the problem!
Hopefully this is something that Gulikit addresses.
They will hopefully be able to change the injection molding fill and vents to bring that point off the edge of the dome.
Or at the least perform a bit of quality control on them before assembly.
Good explanation! Pinned
Yes. Correct. It is only the mold injection fill port and cause no function issue to the stick..Thanks.
@@GuliKit As much as I would hope that this wouldn't impact the experience, when I was using my controllers I did encounter a spot that coincided with the molding port that would cause hesitancy in the joystick. You could feel where the protrusion was and it was noticeable due to how smooth the sticks are otherwise. The bottom doesn't seem to affect it but the sides where it makes contact with the controller is where the feeling of a "notch" or disruption in the stick comes from. It was night and day after smoothing it out. Worth taking a look into for sure as this is a great controller with such a small piece affecting the joystick.
@@KeiRetroGaming Ok,will check more and improve better and better.Thanks.
@@GuliKit honestly, you could probably shim the gate size a bit smaller, though your probably need to run the molten plastic hotter, maybe even go as far as a thermal heater
(6 years working in injection molding)
For anyone here who disassembled their controller, tested out the bumper buttons while it was disassembled and thought they got messed up because they started sticking: turns out putting the back plate back on will fix that issue. I didn't realize the back has trigger guards that prevent the triggers from rubbing against the bumpers.
omg i spent 30 minutes in figuring out what went wrong until i saw your comment thanks
Got mine today, they've fixed most of the issues in their new batches.
That's great to hear! I'm happy to see they've been fixing a lot of these issues on newer batches.
Well, dang it....now I'm on the fence on whether or not to buy this controller. Though you are very clear and concise throughout the process, I'm just too skeeeeerd to take apart anything electronic. Thanks for a great video! ☺
Oh, I'd buy one again in a heartbeat. Compared to my Dualsense and 8bitdo Pro 2 this genuinely feels like a next-gen controller with those hall triggers and joysticks. Gulikit seems pretty nice about sending replacement parts if needed as well if you buy from the official store. It's a gamble sure but any new product can have faults but they at least know about them now and are working towards improving. Glad you liked the video!
I have 3 of them with no problems at all.
@@MobileDecay Are you using it/them on the Nintendo Switch? If so, is it "waking" the console and then are you able to navigate the menu? I saw a video/demo where the user could wake his Switch, but couldn't navigate the menu.
@@heylookatmelookatme I haven't tried it on my Switch but everything I saw says it can wake the Switch.
@@MobileDecay Thanks! : )
The best first step in disassembly is disconnecting the power. It can save your device from accidental shortcuts.
shortcircuits *
@Carl Gunderson at 3:10 the battery connector is reachable. It can be disconnected with tweezers and you no longer have to worry about a possible short circuit and blowing up any components.
He has no idea about tearing down any electrical Devices
I have three of these controllers so far and no issues luckily.
Awfully lucky! Maybe you bought an older batch. How long have you had them?
A little tipp for sanding stuff like this:
Try theese foam core nail files, they give you a lot of control.
Thx for the vid... keep fixing =)
I can say this is by far the trickiest controller to assemble. I have experience with X360/XBOne, DualShock 3/4 controllers. I have yet to disassemble DualSense one.
5 min in, good to have teardowns for stuff like this easily available. To anyone doing this however, PLEASE get a spudger. That being a plastic pry tool, really helps not having to use a card+cloth to pry things open and can help dislodge rumble motor cables too. I repair electronics semi professionally, right tool for the job makes things SO MUCH EASIER and it probably would've gone a long way to not breaking the plastic clip. That said, I do this for money and still sometimes break clips. They're just finnicky and fragile so it's kinda expected to sometimes break some.
Yup I did this as well on mine it works alil better then before it is a great controler in general that was the only issue I saw I've had it sence two weeks after release. It is my fav controler to use on switch and second fav for computer use
Underrated channel
Thanks! Hearing stuff like that means a lot for a content creator.
I feel your pain, bro, really hardest gamepad I even had to dissasemble and I do that stuff for 24 years.
The only thing that compares in difficulty is PS Vita, but for very different reasons.
Sub'd because it's a teardown!
I received the controls yesterday, and I noticed the sticks getting stuck and I remembered your video (I watched several videos about the control), I followed the tutorial to the letter and it worked, now they are very smooth, thx!!
Mine is the KK 2 (NS08) btw
Awesome! Enjoy the controller, great to hear it worked out for ya.
I just bought one of these. Are those L/R shoulder buttons just ordinary switches you can find on most controllers? Those are the first ones to wear out because of the games I play.
you can pop off the rubber grips on the analog sticks to make reassembling the joystick board so much easier
When I try to reassemble the controller, the triggers arent going down when i screw in the two screws, making it misaligned so that I cant press my bumpers, what do I do?
This guy is likely the biggest Bob Ross fan? 😂 Good work man. PSA: Do not listen to this while operating a vehicle or heavy machinery.
Hello, I'm a Speedrunner so I might want sometimes to have to mash buttons a lot and do some rapid tricks with the joysticks. Usually my controllers "live" for long durations but you kinda feel later how weak the buttons become. Would you recommend this controller to me ? When I buy devices I emphasis much on how long they can survive with me.
I would actually recommend the controller in that case. The hall sensor sticks are drift immune and the buttons are easily replaceable and sold by the company for about $10 CAD in the unlikely case you'll need to replace them. The buttons themselves are decent and you shouldn't have issues with them to begin with. It also has a handy macro feature if you need to spam something constantly and the latency is pretty decent at 11ms over Bluetooth. You probably won't find smoother joysticks or triggers on any controller out there.
Mine work just fine, both analog is smooth (it's been like 3 weeks since I bought it) Hope it will stay durable as long as possible.
You don't see a little notch on the front of the joysticks? Should be visible when moving either stick at a certain angle. I put a timestamp in the description to show what it looks like from the outside. If you don't have it, that's great news!
Thank you for the detailed teardown. I want to buy it, but for now I want to check if I can just switch and reverse the A-B and X-Y button in order to make it looks like XBOX controller layouts.
I have a question, is switching those [A, B, X, Y] button possible? Or that they won’t match if not put on the correct positions? Thank you in advance 😊
Unfortunately you need to buy this to get the Xbox style layout, you can't swap the ones already inside:
a.aliexpress.com/_mLT88y4
That's interesting, for me personally, it doesn't bother me, since I already know the layout for those buttons and I don't look at the buttons when I'm playing, I just play it as is, of course it works.
But I guess I understand from a physical standpoint you want to see it like it should be on an Xbox controller.
@@KeiRetroGaming hmm, that’s a bit saddening news. But hey, at least they still prepared the Xbox button layout for the curious like me. Thanks a lot for the info :D
@@tcrviper yeah I’m often alternate between using DS4 and some cheap Xbox controller for PC, so I still need to see what controller I’m using by looking at it physically, than confirm the on screen button prompt on what to press.
And yeah, I heard it’s the best controller around (for now) and it’s a bit triggering to see the button layout that I’m not used to. Though it turns out to be customizable, just with extra money and step :’)
@@andhikant274 yeah that makes sense, I didn't think about someone using multiple devices, I only use a series X.
i'm having a problem with my King Kong Pro 2 that i haven't seen mentioned anywhere else. my triggers tend to stick down after being pushed down for a while, especially the left one. now that i've watched you open it up, i'm wondering if the magnet might actually be adhering to the shielding!! definitely not great for games where driving controls use RT for accelerate and LT for brake. i'm not sure what to do about that problem, it's not like they can send me a replacement part. at any rate, want to echo all the comments thanking you for the helpful and well-explained video.
Always happy to help, I've heard that issue before on the white units but not the black or non pro. Both the units I bought didn't have it but the one I gifted to a friend (white version) had sticky triggers. Gulikit is great about sending parts out so feel free to contact them on the official Ali Store if you have any concerns.
Once you show what's going on with a video they'll generally ship it out within 1-2 days. All stuff is currently closed overseas till the 8th though so they might not be able to get back to you right away. If I discover a fix for the triggers I'll be sure to let the community know. They shipped my friend two sets of replacement triggers after I sent them a video of his problem (one silver and white set).
electrical tape would help that
Thanks for the detailed walk through. Do you know where to buy replacement for the silver plastic joystick cap that looks like a mushroom ?
Contact the official store on AliExpress for a replacement. They have great customer service.
Thanks for the fast response
Welcome
so what version would be the new batch that "solves" the buttoms and stick problems?
im searching in amazon and i see many models and many manufacturers selling the same controller that i don't know wich one is the right one
i mostly want to use this controller for forza and beamng drive
Please pin this comment. I got one at Target last night (January 2023, model NS09 in black) and my A button was squeaking/sticking out of the box. I would also like to know which version we should try to get. Apparently the white has less issues?
The sticks do feel A LOT nicer than a regular Series S/X controller, so I might just exchange it for another and try my luck until I get a solid one. I didn't realize how smooth joysticks can be today. Unfortunately now my interest is heightened for nicer controllers haha.
Also for anyone wondering, you can use this wirelessly with a Series Xbox if you have a Wingman XB. Put it in Switch mode and right next to the Wingman with both devices in pairing mode. No lag, works nicely.
Save KIEL, you are an expert on the subject. I have a doubt about this gulikit control, by default, we activate the motion sensor on the
L or ZL for games that do not support this function now the question is is there any way to switch to activate with R or ZR even changing directly on the controller board?
Great video!
I have the same issue but, In my case a very tiny plastic part has broken (inside on the left stick). Unfortunately, they don't sell the replacement stick. It's a very specific and patented module. I think the stick replacement kit for steam deck it's the same stick. Maybe desoldering and put in it into the kingkong 2 pro would work.
First I contact them I hope they send my a replacement part 🤞🤞🤞
Finally they sent me the analog replacement part. And I fix my control. Thanks to the Gulikit team, and specially to Cathy wich is the person who answered me the emails. They sent me for free the analog, I didnt even pay for the shipping
In your face ASUS, they should learn from gulikit customer service. Thanks!!!
Glad to hear you got it fixed. Gulikit seems to have pretty good customer service.
I have a similar issue where my left stick is sticky. Meaning it gets stuck off center and I have to push it back to the middle quite often. No feels like there is some kind of sticky substance inside but I always keep it in the case to prevent such things. Haven't got the courage to open an check it yet.
This same thing happened to me! Unfortunately it completely broke. Been waiting to see if I can find a replacement joystick I can solder on
Thank you brother! i have to choose between this and the 8bitdo ultimate. What is your thoughts about that? thanks!
The biggest difference between the two is the buttons are easier to press on the 8bitdo Ultimate, and the joysticks feel better on the Gulikit. The Gulikit also feels more comfortable at least to me while the biggest con on the 8bitdo would be the loose buttons that slightly rattle and the 2.4g connector on it has also lagged on me on several occasions. Between both, it's a tough choice but I'd choose the Gulikit if you don't mind firmer face buttons. Hope that helps narrow your choice down a bit. Feel free to let me know if you have any other questions about the two.
hi have encountered the same problem as you do with the right joystick sticking but its not the mold of the joystick the problem is there a way that I can fix it ?
Really think this company needs a team up with extreme rate I think they together could build amazing elite pro style controllers
Thanks for the teardown! I have my issues with the shoulder buttons as well, but not from the clicky tactile feel, more so that the button flexes and there's a spongy take-up on it before the break. I'll see if I can do anything to stiffen the button or make it more rigid to help with it
Did you open it up to take a look at the shoulder buttons themselves? Make sure they're seated correctly and that the switches themselves are still working properly under the buttons. Glad you found the teardown helpful!
They function just fine, yeah. It's just a quirk of the design of the switch, button, and spring. I also use bumpers weird where I hook my fingers high on the controller and press the end of the bumpers with the inside of my knuckles, so any slack/sponginess in the system is really accentuated from the longer lever arm
I gave it a try on mine to give you a bit of a comparison but I definitely don't feel the spongy uptake using it the same way as you do. Could be the spring itself since the switch is fine. If you can't fix it feel free to reach out to the official store on Ali and see what they can do.
@@KeiRetroGaming I can also double check with some of my other friends when they get theirs because they liked it when I showed mine to them
Perfect! I'm sure they'll enjoy the controllers too. I find it hard to pick up any other controller now that I have two of these here.
this looks absurdly repairable, which is ironic, because it's the controller which you're least liekly to need to repair (might do a shell swap though)
Is there any place to get replacement parts for d-pad rubber membrane ? 10:47 ... Would appreciate the help. Thanks for the video!
Reach out to the official AliExpress store and they should be happy to get you the parts you need.
Acabo de comprar el control , espero que no me vaya a salir con algun defecto de fabricacion, lo voy a examinar muy bien y si tiene algun defecto lo devuelvo.
Have you tested xbox thumbstick/cap on the gulikit, if so do they fit?
Im planning on replacing mine since the thumbstick is very slippery for me.
They're compatible according to GreenChii. He has a comment up with 10 likes on this video verifying it. I haven't tested them myself but definitely something I want to try down the road. Sounds like you should have no issues swapping them over to the Xbox one controller caps.
i also got white version of this gamepad, but last week my left trigger suddenly got reversed input, been using it over a year and i always take a good care of it but i don't know how i got that trigger problem. could you give me any advice or solution how to fix it?
Nice work! Btw, how could i fix an issue with the buttons? i played with mine for about 4 hours with Pokemon Arceus (too much text) so i did hit the 'A' button too many times and it got to a point where if i press it and move just a little bit to any side it get's stuck and it's difficult to already play any other game as the button can get stuck easily
Button sticking is a known issue unfortunately. I'll definitely let the community know if I find a good fix for that, in the meantime pressing straight down on the button seems to keep it from sticking most of the time I've heard. My one controller has very minor sticking but the other one I have is fine.
Both my Kingkong and Kingkong Pro 2 has this issue with the left thumbstick it doesn't register when I move it down direction.
I had to buy an 8Bitdo Ultimate with the same halleffect sticks and it works perfect. Had it for a year now. The gullikit was just less than a month and both failed.
Compared to PS3 controllers and others, this controller is a piece of cake to take apart. Think it will last a lifetime 👍
Hi, many shops are selling those controls with additional xbox layout buttons. do I need to open th controller completly to change them?
No disassembling required for swapping the layout as the button replacements come with a tool to pull them out. The product is available here for purchase from the official store:
a.aliexpress.com/_mNzuApQ
Is the battery a common one that can be easily found when the one in the controller has completely died? Or is this a throw away the whole controller when the battery completely dies?
The battery is easily swappable after pulling off the back panel of the controller. I'd email the official Ali store to see if they're able to sell a replacement one to you, but I don't see why they couldn't. They've been really good about selling parts for the controller so far.
Heeyyyy my KingKong2 pro has the exact same issue! You can even see the bump when the controller is fully assembled!
Yep that means your unit is likely affected by the same problem. You'll probably have to open it up to fix it sadly. The joysticks are like night and day if you compare them side by side... Much smoother overall after sanding down the imperfection.
the joystick cap notch is from where it attaches to the sprue during injection. it can only be permanently fixed by changing the mold and having it attach somewhere inside the cap where it doesn't affect performance even if it's not cut cleanly from the sprue. otherwise a human has to manually sand down every cap
Sounds like they've changed their injection molding process from the comment they made today on this video. Excellent to see! Shame they only fixed it now.
mine had almost the same problem with the left stick but it wasnt the cover, it was the module itself, it was getting stuck or felt like it was bumping in something inside the module. and i dont know what to do with it.
I was wondering if it's possible to install clicky switches in the face button and dpad? Kinda like what WULFF DEN did with his Pro controller.
The only button switches that fit the controller are the ones that Gulikit provides. To my knowledge they're proprietary.
Hi! Do you think in the future, Gulikit will release hall sensing analog sticks for the NS09 standard version?
Both of their Kong controllers have hall sensor joysticks. The NS09 is the pro model with the most features including the hall sensor joysticks. I own two and aside from this horrible plastic issue from the factory I've been amazed how good they are.
They have the King Kong 2 at their webpage recently. They first announced the King Kong 2 Pro. The regular King Kong and King Kong Pro controllers that has no number "2" on them so that means it doesn't use the hall sensor sticks.
Ah this was the one I was looking at:
www.gulikit.com/productinfo/828615.html
Either way still looks like a solid controller. Are you looking at picking up one?
Good video, very explained and detailed, could someone give me a link to buy a replacement joystick for the King Kong 2 pro controller? Until now I have not found any compatible ones, I only find spare parts for the Nintendo switch and the steam deck, I will be grateful beforehand.
Looks like the bumper switches you don't like are fairly standard form factor so easily replaced, a mod i might do to mine also. The one i got does not have this issue so maybe it's been addressed, only recently purchased, nice n smooth.
Any idea what kind of switches they are and how durable such switches are in general?
@@akashmakkar7187 I need to know this as well. I need to replace mine
@@criminal_ds They are pretty generic. 2 million clicks is their lifespan. Probably the part that'll break first. A bit disappointing tbh. You can try contacting Gulikit and see if they'll send your replacement ones and a guide on how to replace.
after looking inside the controller do you think is possible to pick up the KingKong 2 Pro circuit board and put it in a nintendo pro controller?
No they aren't swappable unfortunately. Motherboards are unique to the controller they're from.
Glad I saw your video. I just got one of these and both sticks have it bad.
Let me know how it goes fixing it and what you think after about the joysticks. When I put my controller back together the first time I was shocked how smooth it felt compared to how it felt out of the box. This is a very widespread issue and it wouldn't shock me to see that most of these controllers have it and need repairs.
@@KeiRetroGaming Unfortunately, sanding it down doesn't seem to have done much. I still feel some very specific points where the sticks feel like they grind almost like hitting a lip.
I definitely felt some improvement from sanding, but I think maybe the stick module itself is gummed up. It is a really grindy feeling. I saw people saying calibrating the sticks and updating the firmware can also smooth out the sticks, but so far, nothing has helped.
A real shame since I like this controller a lot. Now I'm hoping Gulikit will still let me RMA.
Yeah, they aren't designed to be pushed completely out to the edge if you don't have the shell on yet so they'll feel a little... off. Once you put the shell on it should feel much smoother as it has an edge to stop at. I had to go back in and sand a bit more down to smooth out the edge as well so you might have to go back and check yours.
If you contact Gulikit and explain the situation they should be willing to send you a couple replacement joysticks to pop on. The two they sent me had the same issues unfortunately since it must've been from the same factory but easy enough to sand/file the edge again and put back on.
Here's some pictures I took for you of the replacement sticks they sent me:
www.reddit.com/user/Kei-Retro-Gaming/comments/w1ovxi/replacement_joysticks_from_gulikit/
@@KeiRetroGaming Oh no, I mean that they feel this way with the shell on. I did a number of tests and went back and sanded quite a bit, but it feels like the area that is smooth is actually minor compared to the area that seems to grind. Easily some of the worst feeling sticks I've ever touched even after opening up and sanding down and closing it all back up.
It still works and reads fine, but I'd hate to play with this thing as the grinding feeling is awful.
Did you get any debris in the sticks when sanding? I'd ask Gulikit for a new joystick board. The joysticks are soldered into the board itself so it basically comes as one piece. They should be pretty helpful if you show them videos of the problem. Keep the joystick part you sanded and just move that over to the replacement part when it arrives.
Mine has a problem with the APG button. The thing goes into learning mode each time I press a button, is there any fix for this?
On the Nintendo Switch, a message appears about the battery running out even though the Gulli Kit King Kong 2 Pro has a battery at 50%. How can I resolve this? I have already updated to version 5.1 of the firmware that is on the manufacturer's website.
so i bought my controller about 4 months later, judging on battery date. my "B" was squeaking which is what made me find this video but i looked at my joystics and had the same problem as you, though not as noticeable, but i emailed them about it anyways. I really want to know if it is possible to change the button config to look like the xbox style i know they are different height y,b,a,x just wanted to know if you had any ideas on how to change that.
Yep all you need to do is swap them over using this kit they sell:
www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004421358481.html
I have a other question. Do u know if its possible to install only the sticks into a ps5 controller?
If you're referring to the hall joysticks themselves, no unfortunately not as they're attached to the motherboard.
I agree. The modules are great tho
My gulikit controller zr and zl buttons get stuck if they are pushed and held down for a while, do you get the same issue as well?
I don't have that issue on either of my units but my friend I bought the new white Gulikit Kong Pro 2 for has that issue on his already.
@@KeiRetroGaming mine is also the white version it seems like the white version has that issue
Bizarre to see it happen only on the white ones like that... If you figure out what it is let me know. I don't have a white one unfortunately to compare it to my black ones or to do a teardown on it.
@@KeiRetroGaming They told me that the first batch of the white version are bound to have issues and the trigger stuck problem is the most common, and they are looking into fixing it.
Yours is white?
Im having an issue where turning my camera/view to the left in games is significantly slower than when i turn to the right. Is the joystick done for or is there a way to clean it?
Just had exactly the same problem with my left stick today, the XInput test was showing a value of about -24000 when I pushed left and 32767 when I pushed right. I connected it to another PC and it was fine, so went back to the first PC and with the controller still unplugged, went into Control Panel > Printers and Devices, Right-Clicked the Controller and selected Remove Controller. Rebooted and then plugged the controller back in and everything was fine again and the XInput test was showing the correct values.
It's worth resetting the controller settings as well with the Gear and -- keys, and checking the calibration in the Controller settings in the Windows control panel. This might not solve your problem but it sounds exactly like the problem I had so I thought I would post what my solution was.
I ruined my controller doing this, the RZ/LZ kept blocking the L/R buttons and as such I had to keep removing them, in the end, the holes were just ruined from continuous in and out, in any case, I would never recommend this controller to anyone, the only reason I did it was quality control after a bad unit was sent to me, shame on them for not refunding.
BTW this is coming from someone who replaced both digitizer and LCD of my Nintendo Switch including shell replacement for the joycons.
I don’t get the hate for the tac switches under the bumpers 😭 I went out of my way with my pro controller to get those in there. They feel so crispy and the sound is so nice
Any toolkit specific requirements for disassembling the controller?
I'm certain that my left stick up and down is either dirty, in need of adjusting, or perhaps fixed back in place.
Tried calibrating it, but when it came down to making the triangle green it couldn't even reach it for me to complete the process. Got the controller used.
A simple $20 electronics repair toolkit off Amazon should cover it. All you really need is a screwdriver and a plastic spudger tool/guitar pick to open it up. Something like this should have everything you need:
amzn.to/442rt8a
@@KeiRetroGaming Thanks for the help, glad for the response👍
Welcome, happy to help. Hope you manage to fix it.
pull that joystick cap u genius :3
Calibrating the joysticks, triggers and gryoscope after opening up to do some repair is a good idea imo.
Agreed! Most people forget to do that afterwards but it can sure make a difference. Thanks for the reminder to the community.
Could you do a teardown of the KK3? There's very little of that online and it's hard to find a decent reference.
I thought about it but I'm worried about breaking clips like I did on this one. I still might when I catch up on my RUclips backlog, just worried about breaking anything on it. The KK3 has better build quality though, could go either way.
Did sanding the stick cap fix the issue? Because I did that and it still falls into some sort of notch. The sticks click as well at 180° and 270°.
Yeah, but I had to take it off a second time after the video and sand more off. Still a decent controller years later but I do prefer my 8bitdo Ultimate Bluetooth now.
Oh ok, I seem to have some sort of clicking sound coming from the sticks. Gulikit stated that they'd send a pair of sticks and I'm waiting on that. Thanks for the reply. Really appreciate it.
My left joystick doesn't get caught on anything, like in this video. However, I cannot go up or down with it, at all. I can only move left to right.
if i wanted to use this as a PC controller ... would it work the same way if i opened up and rotated the buttons around (to an xbox configuration) ???
No unfortunately they're all different depths, I tried. You'd need to buy the button replacements from Gulikit to get it in traditional Xbox format:
a.aliexpress.com/_mPchpec
Need some assistance if anybody has knowledge. I dropped my King Kong pro 2 and since the drop it hasn’t turned on since. After plugging to charge, the LED turned on to indicate it was charging, and after pressing buttons it rumbled a couple times, so it’s got power, but it’s not connecting or turning on fully.
Any ideas as to what it could be? Seems like a motherboard connection, but no repairs shops will look at it so I wanted to attempt the fix myself. Thank you!
How come my left and right triggers is having friction now to my left and right button???