It took me five if not six hours to install this, with great care to prevent damage. It was enjoyable until it came time to get the oil cooler post out of the bottom of that support; from there until you officially have the support back in place, you will not be having fun. Getting the oilcooler post back into the rubber grommet at the very bottom of the support was a bit of a nightmare. There's not a lot of room for tools to use to bend the ear with rubber grommet down for the post to go in to (and I wasn't willing to scratch anything with prying tool anyway), and it will tend to push the grommet out of the hole; I did it by hand and it wasn't easy. A few tips: The oil cooler grill does not stay in place on its own as you are reassembling - save yourself the frustration and tape it in place. I used scotch tape which barely held but was better than nothing, I wanted to be sure I would be able to pull and remove it all. Getting the post on the bottom of the oilcooler back in place is the linchpin of reassembly and for me was the worst part with everything loose and threatening to scrape/fall/bend everything else. I had good luck with putting a loose screw in on the middle of the radiator support on the right side as I was reassembling, this side hangs down more and without something to hold it up, things were not going well as I pulled that bottom ear down enough to get the post on the bottom of the oil cooler back in place. There are two long specialized screws that go through the front corners of the black farings, these secure the top of the large radiator support frame, and the right one also mounts one ear of the coolant overflow tank. They go through rubber grommets in the ears of the radiator frame, and those grommets should have a metal spacer with a washer that sandwiches the rubber grommet/isolator. Without this spacer/washer sandwiching the rubber grommet, things are going to be bad. The washers are easy to miss and even the spacer fell out and perched on the radiator as I pulled the fairing off, I never saw the thing assembled and did not know I was missing parts, or what the parts were when I found them as I was reassembling. I probably spent 45 minutes trying to assemble this wrong, initially I thought the spacer and washer were for the coolant tank. I could imagine someone really struggling to get the tiny nuts at the top of the oil cooler back in (and likely the metal spacers that are inserted into the grommets before the nuts, since these will likely pop out during reassembly if not disassembly) but if you put the part (nut or spacer) on the bent end of a small allen wrench, you can move the part into place, and touch the tip of the wrench to the tip of the stud such that the part (spacer or nut) will be pretty much perfectly aligned and ready to be carefully pushed in or screwed on while the wrench is holding it in place and aligned; it's still fiddley but it'll probably work better than trying to reach with your fingers or pliers. In general, don't tighten all the screws in a section until you have all the screws in place and just short of finger tight, especially for the radiator support and fan screws. That whole assembly will need tweaking as it goes back together which is easy with everything loose. As you are tightening the radiator support, you'll probably need to carefully push the top of the grill in toward the radiator so that it can go under the top of the radiator support. Once it's pressed in, you'll be able to push the radiator up a bit and life will be good. I expect if you tried to assemble it without that top edge of the grill fully sandwiched between the support and radiator, the radiator would be too low and cause problems. It's velcro that holds the two upper painted fairings on to the tank near the rear. It's incredibly strong and pulled half of the velcro tab off of the fairing before it released on one of mine. You pull the rear end of the fairing out away from the bike to release to velcro (don't pull it up or down as there is an alignment pin), and then the front of the fairing needs to slide up off of a post; the front of the fairing should not be pulled out, it slides up. There's one stylized bolt on each side (a large bright head with a ring of dimples around the edge) - this is a torx head, not a hex allen head like everything else. You can do this job with surprisingly few tools, two allen wrenches, one 8mm wrench, and one torx... but you are going to need the patients of a saint.
Wow! This comment is awesome! I'm going to pin, it's very detailed, and you explained everything very well! One tip for the radiator and oil cooler cover, put the bottom of it on first (the tab that goes onto the oil cooler.) Its much easier to get the upper tabs on than the lower one. I hope my video helped you at least a little bit, even if it took you awhile. This job is definitely not an easy one! Thanks again for watching, and writing out such amazing instructions!
@@RowdyFox I'm glad you mentioned how much trouble you had completely removing the support, and the ziptie on that hydraulic line would have been hard to find. I think it's pretty likely I would have tried to remove support too but there's nothing to be gained. Instead I never even really got the support completely loose I just pulled it far enough out to slide the radiator grill in. I tried pushing the support down but I didn't see how I would get the support high enough to clear two posts on top of the radiator (if I did the bottom post first) and the radiator itself wouldn't go down far enough to clear the bottom post if you left the two top posts engaged. The right side moves quite a bit but the left side has such a short piece of hose between the radiator and the water neck... and then of course, radiator and cooler get joined in the middle by the two studs with the 8mm nuts as you bring the support back in to place. I didn't want to put too much pressure on it. I just deferred to the "instructions" which indicated working with the bottom oil cooler post and springy ear/tab. It seems like there must be a better way to deal with those posts but I'd almost bet that the factory service manual will prescribe pulling that bottom ear down with a special tool.
Just finished my V4S panigale and it was very similar and also took me 4.5 hours…. I didn’t think to search street fighter as there is no videos on the panigale and the Evotech instructions are shocking…..
I started this process yesterday, got to the point of those two little radiator and oil cooler bolts, and thought how the hell am I going to get those back on, once off, so I abandoned ship LOL. I started searching RUclips and ran across this, so thanks for posting your experience. I ordered a couple new tools, ratcheting and flex head 8mm wrenches, and some low profile sockets, to hopefully assist in getting those two crap bolts back on. I will try again, early this weekend, so I can get it done with time to ride, so I don't forget why I bought a ducati hahaha... Wish me luck ;)
I'm so glad to hear it helped! I definitely struggled with reading the manual. It's like that with all of their parts. Really a bummer, since they make such a great product. Good luck on the install!
man I really appreciate the vid, I have these coming Friday and I'm not looking forward to it but they look good and the protection is worth it. Thanks again for the vid!
The guards don't move around without being bolted down to anything? It's just friction between the rubber spacers and the radiator that holds them in place? Any movement or wear? Thanks for the video!
I check them every three rides, or so, and I haven't seen any noticable movement, or wear. A lot of guards are held on by just zip ties, or are pinch between something. No problem, hope it helped!
Get a ratcheting wrench from Harbor freight to help with 2 🔩 boltsin back holding radiator. The bolts are magnetic and will stick once place lightly but hard to screw on with simply a 🔧 Spanner.
I’m surprised you didn’t need to remove the tank and rear subframe for this job. I just installed a Evotech Rad Guard on my 2020 Superduke, 2 screws and 5 minutes later, done.
Hahah I thought it was getting to that point too. The Panigale V2 is much easier, just slides in place. Not sure why they made the SF so much more difficult.
Nice! So, I was going to try this but now I'm thinking I'll get too frustrated. I was paying attention to the tools you used - are there any special or weird-angle tools needed? Thanks for the walk through!
For this specific job, I have the tools needed listed at the beginning of the video. For overall, if you pick up a set of allen keys and allen sockets that range from 2.5mm to 10mm, hex head sockets from 8mm to 34mm and then you'll need a socket for your rear axle bolt, which you could find by searching for "Ducati rear axle socket." Feel free to DM me if you have more questions!
I installed on my Panigale V4S. They were definitely a pain to install but after riding with them on for awhile, I am thinking about taking them off. I worry about heat. How do you feel about them after riding with them on for awhile?
You're welcome! Here's the link, it's a PDF, so you can print it out if you'd like.evotech-performance.com/collections/ducati-streetfighter-v4/products/ep-ducati-streetfighter-v4-radiator-guard-set-2020-onwards
I didn't go with the S mainly because I do not care for electronic suspension, and the lighter wheels won't make a huge difference for me. Plus the dark grey forks look amazing!
@@RowdyFox I like the looks of the grey forks as well. I didn't get the V4S over the V4 as its quite a bit more money which would have increased sales tax and personal property taxes, the latter of which is paid every year where I live. Even insurance is higher since the MSRP of the bike is 25% more. Instead I took that money and bought the full Akrapovic exhaust and will upgrade the rear shock to an Ohlins TTX and get Ohlins inserts for the front forks when they wear out.
Another reason why if you dont know what youre doing you should leave it to the professionals. I didn't watch after the second minute, so saved best part of 18 minutes of wasted time 👍
@@RowdyFox crg from motomillion. I ordered it before I got the bike lol. I like that you can do the tuck or out it open motion on it. Gotta find some frame sliders next
It took me five if not six hours to install this, with great care to prevent damage. It was enjoyable until it came time to get the oil cooler post out of the bottom of that support; from there until you officially have the support back in place, you will not be having fun. Getting the oilcooler post back into the rubber grommet at the very bottom of the support was a bit of a nightmare. There's not a lot of room for tools to use to bend the ear with rubber grommet down for the post to go in to (and I wasn't willing to scratch anything with prying tool anyway), and it will tend to push the grommet out of the hole; I did it by hand and it wasn't easy. A few tips:
The oil cooler grill does not stay in place on its own as you are reassembling - save yourself the frustration and tape it in place. I used scotch tape which barely held but was better than nothing, I wanted to be sure I would be able to pull and remove it all.
Getting the post on the bottom of the oilcooler back in place is the linchpin of reassembly and for me was the worst part with everything loose and threatening to scrape/fall/bend everything else. I had good luck with putting a loose screw in on the middle of the radiator support on the right side as I was reassembling, this side hangs down more and without something to hold it up, things were not going well as I pulled that bottom ear down enough to get the post on the bottom of the oil cooler back in place.
There are two long specialized screws that go through the front corners of the black farings, these secure the top of the large radiator support frame, and the right one also mounts one ear of the coolant overflow tank. They go through rubber grommets in the ears of the radiator frame, and those grommets should have a metal spacer with a washer that sandwiches the rubber grommet/isolator. Without this spacer/washer sandwiching the rubber grommet, things are going to be bad. The washers are easy to miss and even the spacer fell out and perched on the radiator as I pulled the fairing off, I never saw the thing assembled and did not know I was missing parts, or what the parts were when I found them as I was reassembling. I probably spent 45 minutes trying to assemble this wrong, initially I thought the spacer and washer were for the coolant tank.
I could imagine someone really struggling to get the tiny nuts at the top of the oil cooler back in (and likely the metal spacers that are inserted into the grommets before the nuts, since these will likely pop out during reassembly if not disassembly) but if you put the part (nut or spacer) on the bent end of a small allen wrench, you can move the part into place, and touch the tip of the wrench to the tip of the stud such that the part (spacer or nut) will be pretty much perfectly aligned and ready to be carefully pushed in or screwed on while the wrench is holding it in place and aligned; it's still fiddley but it'll probably work better than trying to reach with your fingers or pliers.
In general, don't tighten all the screws in a section until you have all the screws in place and just short of finger tight, especially for the radiator support and fan screws. That whole assembly will need tweaking as it goes back together which is easy with everything loose.
As you are tightening the radiator support, you'll probably need to carefully push the top of the grill in toward the radiator so that it can go under the top of the radiator support. Once it's pressed in, you'll be able to push the radiator up a bit and life will be good. I expect if you tried to assemble it without that top edge of the grill fully sandwiched between the support and radiator, the radiator would be too low and cause problems.
It's velcro that holds the two upper painted fairings on to the tank near the rear. It's incredibly strong and pulled half of the velcro tab off of the fairing before it released on one of mine. You pull the rear end of the fairing out away from the bike to release to velcro (don't pull it up or down as there is an alignment pin), and then the front of the fairing needs to slide up off of a post; the front of the fairing should not be pulled out, it slides up.
There's one stylized bolt on each side (a large bright head with a ring of dimples around the edge) - this is a torx head, not a hex allen head like everything else. You can do this job with surprisingly few tools, two allen wrenches, one 8mm wrench, and one torx... but you are going to need the patients of a saint.
Wow! This comment is awesome! I'm going to pin, it's very detailed, and you explained everything very well! One tip for the radiator and oil cooler cover, put the bottom of it on first (the tab that goes onto the oil cooler.) Its much easier to get the upper tabs on than the lower one. I hope my video helped you at least a little bit, even if it took you awhile. This job is definitely not an easy one! Thanks again for watching, and writing out such amazing instructions!
@@RowdyFox I'm glad you mentioned how much trouble you had completely removing the support, and the ziptie on that hydraulic line would have been hard to find. I think it's pretty likely I would have tried to remove support too but there's nothing to be gained. Instead I never even really got the support completely loose I just pulled it far enough out to slide the radiator grill in. I tried pushing the support down but I didn't see how I would get the support high enough to clear two posts on top of the radiator (if I did the bottom post first) and the radiator itself wouldn't go down far enough to clear the bottom post if you left the two top posts engaged. The right side moves quite a bit but the left side has such a short piece of hose between the radiator and the water neck... and then of course, radiator and cooler get joined in the middle by the two studs with the 8mm nuts as you bring the support back in to place. I didn't want to put too much pressure on it. I just deferred to the "instructions" which indicated working with the bottom oil cooler post and springy ear/tab. It seems like there must be a better way to deal with those posts but I'd almost bet that the factory service manual will prescribe pulling that bottom ear down with a special tool.
You can definitely get it off of the radiator, but it takes some sketchy wiggling to do. The good thing is, it's done and over with!
Just finished my V4S panigale and it was very similar and also took me 4.5 hours…. I didn’t think to search street fighter as there is no videos on the panigale and the Evotech instructions are shocking…..
Makes me appreciate my service shop workers. Thanks for the video.
Most technicians work their ass off! You're welcome, it was fun to make!
I started this process yesterday, got to the point of those two little radiator and oil cooler bolts, and thought how the hell am I going to get those back on, once off, so I abandoned ship LOL. I started searching RUclips and ran across this, so thanks for posting your experience.
I ordered a couple new tools, ratcheting and flex head 8mm wrenches, and some low profile sockets, to hopefully assist in getting those two crap bolts back on.
I will try again, early this weekend, so I can get it done with time to ride, so I don't forget why I bought a ducati hahaha... Wish me luck ;)
Thanks for taking one for the team. I’m getting this job today and was lucky to find your video. The online manual SUCKS!!!!
I'm so glad to hear it helped! I definitely struggled with reading the manual. It's like that with all of their parts. Really a bummer, since they make such a great product. Good luck on the install!
man I really appreciate the vid, I have these coming Friday and I'm not looking forward to it but they look good and the protection is worth it. Thanks again for the vid!
No problem!! They are great to have! Saves the radiator!
The guards don't move around without being bolted down to anything? It's just friction between the rubber spacers and the radiator that holds them in place? Any movement or wear? Thanks for the video!
I check them every three rides, or so, and I haven't seen any noticable movement, or wear. A lot of guards are held on by just zip ties, or are pinch between something. No problem, hope it helped!
Get a ratcheting wrench from Harbor freight to help with 2 🔩 boltsin back holding radiator. The bolts are magnetic and will stick once place lightly but hard to screw on with simply a 🔧 Spanner.
Those are some awesome tips! Thank you!
I’m surprised you didn’t need to remove the tank and rear subframe for this job. I just installed a Evotech Rad Guard on my 2020 Superduke, 2 screws and 5 minutes later, done.
Hahah I thought it was getting to that point too. The Panigale V2 is much easier, just slides in place. Not sure why they made the SF so much more difficult.
Nice! So, I was going to try this but now I'm thinking I'll get too frustrated. I was paying attention to the tools you used - are there any special or weird-angle tools needed? Thanks for the walk through!
I'd recommend getting a ball end allen key set. Otherwise not really. I'm glad you enjoyed the video! I hope it's easy to follow.
I agree with the cookies, I'll trade tea with an energy drink. Haha
Hi, what kind of tool do you use. I don’t have tools yet, I need it for Streetfighter and Multistrada, thanks
For this specific job, I have the tools needed listed at the beginning of the video. For overall, if you pick up a set of allen keys and allen sockets that range from 2.5mm to 10mm, hex head sockets from 8mm to 34mm and then you'll need a socket for your rear axle bolt, which you could find by searching for "Ducati rear axle socket." Feel free to DM me if you have more questions!
I installed on my Panigale V4S. They were definitely a pain to install but after riding with them on for awhile, I am thinking about taking them off. I worry about heat. How do you feel about them after riding with them on for awhile?
I don't really worry about the heat. I haven't had any signs of overheating, and I just check for any debris caught in them before I hop on the bike.
Nice video. What rear stand is that?
Thank you! And it's a Bike Lift brand rear stand.
sorry can you tell me if it was Evotech Performance or Evotech-rc (or Evotech srl)?
It's Evotech Performance
😂it’s a job I paid for the workshop to do. €150. I see it was WELL worth it!
yeah gonna let the workshop boys do this one on my V4S cause warranty reasons !
thank you very much, sorry, could you post the link of the instructions you were looking at on the phone? thanks
You're welcome! Here's the link, it's a PDF, so you can print it out if you'd like.evotech-performance.com/collections/ducati-streetfighter-v4/products/ep-ducati-streetfighter-v4-radiator-guard-set-2020-onwards
It helps me a lot!
I'm glad my video could be of some help!
@@RowdyFox
Thank you for your continuous support.
Thank you for tuning in! I'm just here to help people out!
Ya...hh good ducati, that ducati very hard job, 😬😬😬😆😆😆
It's not so bad looking back on it.
oh jesus... this took forever... i thought it's plug&play
I wish it was plug and play!
Thanks for this but it gave me less confidence to do this on my own.
Why not the S version?
I didn't go with the S mainly because I do not care for electronic suspension, and the lighter wheels won't make a huge difference for me. Plus the dark grey forks look amazing!
@@RowdyFox I like the looks of the grey forks as well. I didn't get the V4S over the V4 as its quite a bit more money which would have increased sales tax and personal property taxes, the latter of which is paid every year where I live. Even insurance is higher since the MSRP of the bike is 25% more. Instead I took that money and bought the full Akrapovic exhaust and will upgrade the rear shock to an Ohlins TTX and get Ohlins inserts for the front forks when they wear out.
That was pretty much my plan as well! No exhaust yet, since I'm waiting nbn g to see what SC Project comes out with.
Another reason why if you dont know what youre doing you should leave it to the professionals.
I didn't watch after the second minute, so saved best part of 18 minutes of wasted time 👍
Why do you think it's a waste of time?
Im sure in person your a cool dude, but on the internet you come across as a douche...
Bro, this took me like 4 hours
It is a total pain in the ass. At least you got them on!!
What a bastard to put those guards on i just did mine... royal pain in the ass
It really is! But I am super happy with them so far, so it was worth it!
Yeh agreed i like the look tail tidy is next. Just waiting for it to come in the mail
Which one are you getting? I pre-ordered the V4Evo one.
@@RowdyFox crg from motomillion. I ordered it before I got the bike lol. I like that you can do the tuck or out it open motion on it. Gotta find some frame sliders next
Awesome! Hope the installs go smoothly!
Moqueta en el garaje???? Joder que asco
I do not understand, I'm sorry. 😭
I had to stop watching - unnecessary overlay music got in the way