It’s Monday night, I am supposed to be finding YT video about changing out a pool chlorinator as ours sprung a leak and we weren’t using it anyway so time for it to go away. Tell my dearest husband (don’t worry you don’t have to watch all of it) WOW WOW WOW, we watch it all as we have a flooding problem similar to this. Can’t thank you enough for posting this. We won’t be doing it ourselves (at 66 & 68) but you have made us so much smarter when we find a contractor to do the work! Thank you so much
You're welcome! Great story :) I also like to wander around YT videos and get distracted by the good ones. Make sure the contractor puts some rebar in that concrete to strengthen it. I'm surprised our instructions didn't say to do so. Also, there are different strength drains depending on the weight of the traffic travelling over them. Size it for your heaviest vehicle traffic! And finally, make sure it's a bit wider than the driveway so you capture any water flowing down on the edges between the driveway and the grass. Good luck!
@@davidpatrick3533 The NDS company video also good. It will probably never happen as we live at sea level and when we get inundated with rain there is just no where for the water to go. Also finding someone with your skills is next to impossible. As we like to say:the sun, the surf, the sand who wants to work- and that was even before the pandemic. Quality craftsman are a rare find in Florida-everybody wants the easy way. Thanks for your video.
A friend of mine just had this done to her driveway and you can tell by the video that you made sure that everything was done correctly and I like that you took pride in your work!
@@davidpatrick3533 David, I enjoyed watching your video on how to install a channel drain. A friend of mine just had one of these installed last weekend, but I surprised that the installer did not allow the grate on top of the system to be removed, so that debris could be cleaned.
Read the content of water needed for each bag and use a measured bucket to add the water in one go.Easier to mix with all the water from the start.Tape where the concrete meets the bitumen for a nice line it will crack at the interface anyway so might as well make it sharp from the start.You did a well planed job and very professional result,thanks for your effort with the video.
Thanks for the idea on taping the driveway, I'm about to do one of these between brick pavers and if I'm not careful, I'll make a big mess, so thanks for this tip!
That would be cool! Except the manufacturer instructions required that wide so that the drain is properly supported on each side with concrete for car and truck traffic.
In the process of doing this now. Come to find out I need to widen my cement trench 8” to get concrete on both sides. I cut the channel as wide as my drain and now understand that it needs to be bigger. Was going to put quickcrete I there then just add water but not anymore. Thanks for the video
In the future, you might consider using solid sch40 PVC all the way to daylight. It'll flow a heck of a lot better. Once you have water in a pipe, you never want to put it in perforated, or you're just moving surface water to subsurface, and closer to the house, at that.
I agree... smooth wall does flow better. My note in the video said "perforated" but I meant to say "corrugated, non perforated". Schedule 40 is great, but sometimes I don't need that strength or protection from root growth. I run all my gutters through the 4" ADS along with pipe from the 4" sewer and drain family. I use Schedule 40 for a durable daylight outlet with an animal guard, and also use sched 80 under driveways. For a budget though, can't beat corrugated tile at $0.33 per ft if you have to travel a few hundred feet and snake around obstacles with no fittings.
Most videos I have seen with this type of channel drain they advise against using corrugated pipe, most say to run solid pipe all the way to your daylight spot.
Exactly. Why catch it only to risk letting it out before it’s where you want it? But enjoying the installation video- excellent. Edit: channel owner clarified in another response below that it was corrugated but not perforated so all good.
I would have let the concrete run under the drain assembly, (min. 4") You could have accomplished this by suspending the assembly with rebar bridging the top of the trench and tie wire. Just make sure to add some weight to the top so the assembly doesn't float up
Interesting thought, but you would need to vibrate or consolidate the concrete somehow to flow it underneath the drain and fill it completely so there are no voids. We were following the manufacturers instructions therefore used the gravel and sand as the structural base.
Ive watched other videos about this. Seems if you're not driving over the drain, then this gravel base is fine. If you drive over it, they recommended 4" of concrete under the drain as well as on each side.
The part that escapes me is the slope/grade. How do you gain a slope over the run and still keep 1/8" relief along the top edge, drain top edge to driveway ? I have to do this as well for exact same reason.
Luckily, the driveway already sloped greater than 1/4" per ft in the direction we wanted to take the water. So, our slope was already built into the driveway slope from side to side, and maintaining the 1/8" margin between the top of drain to top of driveway automatically gave us the slope needed. Thinking about other situations where the slope isn't already incorporated into the driveway... say if the driveway were flat from side to side: I would keep the 1/8" margin on the high side and on the low side there would be more than 1/8"... possibly one inch or more. In that case, I would slightly widen the relief cut on each side of the grate from 4" to 8", so there would be more distance to softly blend the top of the driveway to the top of the grate using concrete. Yes, there would be more asphalt removed, and more concrete used, but this would allow a softer, and not as abrupt of a dip on the low side of the drain. I hope this helps!
I have two 12 ft garage doors that the guys who poured my slab forgot to put drains on. How am I going to slope this thing over 24 feet? Actually counting the space between the doors and the space at the end it’s like 28ft.
just learning, co-worker wants me to do something about water flowing toward garage, but it has eroded dirt from under cement ramp, rest of driveway is gravel, was thinking of a french drain, but like the looks of this better, but its a 2 car garage, so approx. 24' across. ill do some discussing with her
This is definitely the "deluxe" fix for a water issue that also requires it to be driven over. However, I've done a lot of drainage with French drains. The French drain could be a quicker and just as much effective fix, but either way, make sure you have the proper "outlet" and slope for the water you're collecting!
It has been two years since you put this in, have you seen any separation between the concrete and the asphalt or break down in either? I really need to install this in my Pacific Northwest asphalt drive to deal with our winter rains. Great video...many thanks!
The drain has held up great. It's been 3 years with traffic and no cracks to to the concrete or drain. The only maintenance is cleaning the great body from leaves and debris. I agree about using stone for everything concrete, but the manufacturer specifically wanted sand so that's why we used it. And we're in Upstate NY :)
So the water is drained off to the side. Won't that create a wet spot in the grass? How does the water drain away from this small hole or does it just sit there? In heavy rain, won't the water back up?
brad coody - You're right -- I didn't show how we connected a drainage pipe to the driveway drain, but that's what we did. That pipe takes the water 100 ft away from the house, downstream and daylights. I'll post a follow up video showing how this works.
What is the advantages and disadvantages of using RELN channel drain? Could you have the drain just concrete bottom and sides topped with a metal drain?
The advantage to RELN is that it comes ready to install. Doing it the way suggested is just as good assuming it doesn't crack over time. The plus side to your suggested drain is that you can custom size it. The downside is you would have to form it and engineer it strong enough for your traffic weight.
The driveway has been plowed for 2 years since install and the drain has survived. It's doesn't stick up above the asphalt/concrete. Just have to be careful.
I would probably not use perforated, if you were trying to transport water from the storm drain to the dry well. You can use corrugated, non-perf pipe and probably dump it into the well if the well can handle the volume of water.
I'm not sure you need rebar for reinforcement since it's not really load bearing and it's only 2-3 inches across. Reinforced concrete would probably have been enough.
If it’s your multiple hours invested, why short yourself and not use $20 in rebar. I’m sure a vehicle constantly driving over this area will add stress
Right around the 8 minute mark, I show the PVC pipe being installed and explain that a trench needs to be dug and drainage pipe installed that takes the water away to a safe, lower spot. I don't show the drainage pipe being installed. I'm sorry!
I agree -- the rebar was about halfway up the concrete during the pour. First, I placed 2" of concrete then I laid the rebar on the concrete then placed a few more inches of concrete above the rebar. Typically I place the rebar on the tensile side of the concrete which in this case should have been biased to the bottom.
Thanks for watching! The drain is made out of plastic/composite and needs support after it's installed or it will just crumble when driven over. The extra width cut to each side of the drain allows the concrete to "set" the drain in place and lock it in to keep it from shifting/moving. The concrete also provides the necessary lateral support for the vehicle traffic.
What kind of concrete should I use? It is for an existing concrete pool deck with only 1/2 “ left on each side? (I had a tighter space as drain was flush with wall of house). I can’t use the traditional bags of concrete because of all of the rocks mixed in it Has to be a smooth mix.
At 9:47, you see me putting the 4" elbow on. I didn't show it but that elbow connected to a 4" pipe that took the water downhill and daylighted about 100 ft away.
Yes, you need pitch. In an open ditch, 1/4 " drop for every foot of length will make water flow really well. With a smooth wall pipe, you can easily go flatter, more like 1/8" or 1/16" drop for every 1 ft length of pipe. Some of the really large diameter (24" diameter pipe) that we put in is basically flat.
Great video and work by two nice gents. Job looked painstaking laborious. I would imagine a 'decent' contractor would have to charge $1500 to $2500 for such... so great savings DIY. My lazy behind would have installed an NDS Catch Basin, in the grass on the low side of the drive and ran solid drain pipe to the neighbor's yard (in the middle of the night of course) :). Kidding aside... why cut into a perfectly good, and extra thick, asphalt driveway like that!? Asphalt, concrete and plastic are like politicians... they move, settle and shift differently, depending on weight, moisture and temperature and eventually fail.
Yes, you're right. A better fix would have been if we put a catch basin on the low side of driveway/grass where the water is concentrated. Yes, agreed about the mix of materials. We are sure to see some cracks in time.
What would you do if there is no way to run the connecting drain to daylight due to the channeling drain being the lowest point of the property? Run it to a dry well? Thanks!
Tough call... Without a good outlet, it's a challenge. A dry well is a good option if you have one, or if you can dig one. Without seeing your issue and not knowing if this is possible or not... another option is to trench a drainage tile or cut a swale through the high area to get the water to a different, lower area. Gotta get that water away from there somehow! My friend's driveway kept flooding in a low spot so he built it up, and put a culvert under it. But he also had a nice swale that took the water away.
Hi I have a question. The pipe that comes out of the actual drain, do you just let the water flow through the pipe and into the earth or did you connect it to anything underneath?
I'm sorry but I didn't show that important part of the process. That pipe actually connects to an underground drainage pipe that takes the water 100 ft downhill to daylight. Take the water far enough away to a point where it will naturally drain with a good slope away from the driveway like a natural ditch or swale, or at least a spot that is far enough away where if it pools up it doesn't bother anything else.
@@davidpatrick3533 Thankyou for your reply back. I have just been on the google old google and been looking through a few pages and found some good ways, Thankyou for the advice David I really appreciate it👍🏽take care pal.
That pipe actually feeds an underground drainage pipe that takes the water 100 ft downhill to daylight. I'm sorry but I didn't show that part of the process.
I would take the water far enough away to a point where it will naturally drain with a good slope away from the driveway like a natural ditch or swale, or at least a spot that is far enough away where if it pools up it doesn't bother anything else. Take a picture of your situation and send it to me if you want more specific feedback!
@@davidpatrick3533 appreciate the feedback. It is raining hard here in Washington and I get 4-6” of standing water in front on the garage. I can run it probably about 50-60’ away into a natural ditch in front of my house
@@bluegill2030 a natural ditch sounds perfect! Remember that the driveway drain naturally puts the exiting pipe in the ground around 6" deep (unless you elbow it deeper like I did). For light lawn traffic, you'll probably want that pipe to have about 6" or (12" is better) of dirt cover over it to protect it. And try to get 1/8" of fall per 1' in pipe length meaning the pipe falls about 1" per 8 ft of pipe, or for 60 ft, the pipe will pitch down about 7.5" . That means at a minimum where you enter the ditch should be 13" to 19" below the top of the driveway drain. When daylighting into a natural ditch, to protect the pipe, usually I convert whatever pipe I'm using to schedule 40 PVC for the last 4 to 8 ft. That gives additional strength around the outlet when compared to using a lightweight drainage pipe.
I was going make the same comment! That stuff is very bad for your lungs and once in, it never leaves! Also important when cutting the trench - if your driveway is concrete, you will spend considerable time crouching in a cloud of cement dust.
Nice job but not clear to me how you maintain the correct fall in the drain if it’s always 1/8 lower than the road (which is unlikely to have the same fall)…
You can follow the road pitch even if it's more than 1/8", or, for example, if the road is flat, and you want to pitch the drain, then the pitch correction takes place in that zone that is cut beyond the width of the drain in that area where I placed the concrete. There will be a different slope along the length of the drain to blend the 2 different pitches together.
So these drains embedded in concrete can handle 5 tonnes I understand. So does this mean the first loaded oil, propane or UPS delivery truck that drives over this will destroy it? What has been people's experience?
You can buy heavier duty drains for heavier applications. Every drain specs the load it can handle. So you should definitely oversize the drain based on the weight you expect over it.
Sand was manufacturer installation instructions. It's lasted 3+ years with hundreds of vehicles, trucks, dump trucks, excavators, and boat trailers travelling over it during freeze and thaw cycles in upstate New York. Hasn't cracked, hasn't failed.
@@davidpatrick3533 you must have gotten lucky, that looks like a RELN drain. images.thdstatic.com/catalog/pdfImages/94/945badb5-1e8c-48dc-a227-d955024cca81.pdf
That's what the manufacturer recommended. And I added rebar for additional strength. I don't think tar's strength compares to steel reinforced concrete.
Would have been nice to see where water runs off to… if it’s the yard you will have problems.. didn’t see any connections off of the pvc outlets on either side.
What's sloppy is me not wiping the leaves off before filming the finished product! It's been about 9 months since installed and surprisingly, the edge that we feathered has not cracked. While I offered to use an edger and put a straight edge transition on the concrete, the homeowner wanted it feathered and it's a smooth transition from asphalt to concrete. The drain connects to 4" underground tile and daylights about 100 ft away.
Ha! I figured you were in the trades since you critiqued the finishing of the concrete. Let me simplify my response for you: The water from the drain tile feeds into a pipe that is buried about 1 ft below the ground level. This pipe takes the water 100 ft away to safe location before it dumps it onto the ground, where it naturally flows away.
@@davidpatrick3533 I commented on the finishing as I would have commented on any other finishing.;) Thanks for the explanation. Now I understand the set-up. Good job.:)
@@davidpatrick3533 I know right, I thought dude was a concrete pro or something. I did appreciate the question about where it goes because that is exactly what I was also wondering.
This is the American($$$$$"expensive") way of solving drainage problem what I want is an Indian ( ₹₹"cheap") way of solving the same problem........ 🤔🤔🤔
@@symcardnel1741 According to Buddha there are 3 ways to deal with a problem 1.Solve it 2.Live with it 3.Leave it . You suggested me the 3 rd way ( easiest way) . I got it.Thank you 👍
1. It wasn't a dry well. The 4" pipe was taken to daylight (not in this video) 2. The manufacturer called out to install the drain directly on the sand. And it's lasted 3.5 years with lots of traffic on it and hasn't cracked. Check back with me in 20 years and I'll give you another update.
Clean work. Well done. Your a good friend helping your buddy out like that
It’s Monday night, I am supposed to be finding YT video about changing out a pool chlorinator as ours sprung a leak and we weren’t using it anyway so time for it to go away. Tell my dearest husband (don’t worry you don’t have to watch all of it) WOW WOW WOW, we watch it all as we have a flooding problem similar to this. Can’t thank you enough for posting this. We won’t be doing it ourselves (at 66 & 68) but you have made us so much smarter when we find a contractor to do the work! Thank you so much
You're welcome! Great story :) I also like to wander around YT videos and get distracted by the good ones. Make sure the contractor puts some rebar in that concrete to strengthen it. I'm surprised our instructions didn't say to do so. Also, there are different strength drains depending on the weight of the traffic travelling over them. Size it for your heaviest vehicle traffic! And finally, make sure it's a bit wider than the driveway so you capture any water flowing down on the edges between the driveway and the grass. Good luck!
@@davidpatrick3533 The NDS company video also good. It will probably never happen as we live at sea level and when we get inundated with rain there is just no where for the water to go. Also finding someone with your skills is next to impossible. As we like to say:the sun, the surf, the sand who wants to work- and that was even before the pandemic. Quality craftsman are a rare find in Florida-everybody wants the easy way. Thanks for your video.
Just did it at age 72 by myself !!
A friend of mine just had this done to her driveway and you can tell by the video that you made sure that everything was done correctly and I like that you took pride in your work!
Thank you! I try to do it right.
@@davidpatrick3533 David, I enjoyed watching your video on how to install a channel drain. A friend of mine just had one of these installed last weekend, but I surprised that the installer did not allow the grate on top of the system to be removed, so that debris could be cleaned.
Great video (except the music.) Great attention to detail for DIY'rs! Thanks!
Thanks, Gentlemen, this is not my blueprint for my next job, awesome, very grateful!
I have the same issue with my driveway~thank you for taking the mystery out of installing a channel drain David!
No problem 👍
Thanks for posting. I received an estimate of $5K for this to be installed. Your video made this look a lot less intimidating to do it myself.
Glad it helped! It took the 2 of us about 6 hours. Just take your time with getting the drain set at the right height and sloped properly!
that would be 416 an hour
Yes, turn off the music please. Great video. Very helpful. Thanks a bunch.
Thanks for this great tutorial! Very informative for my own project as a beginner.
You guys looked really professional
Thanks for sharing this. The only thing I can think of to improve it would be a clean out at one end in case it gets plugged with debris.
Good thinking, but actually, the grate lifts out of there very easily, and has been cleaned several times so far!
Great job. Lots of thought went into making it a success.
Read the content of water needed for each bag and use a measured bucket to add the water in one go.Easier to mix with all the water from the start.Tape where the concrete meets the bitumen for a nice line it will crack at the interface anyway so might as well make it sharp from the start.You did a well planed job and very professional result,thanks for your effort with the video.
I agree -- if you're not used to working with concrete... definitely measure. And good idea to tape the asphalt. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the idea on taping the driveway, I'm about to do one of these between brick pavers and if I'm not careful, I'll make a big mess, so thanks for this tip!
job well done only thing is turn off music please!!
I quit watching because of the music
Yes please turn off the music please
This looked easy and fun. I was thinking you were going to double up the drain with it being that wide of a trench.
That would be cool! Except the manufacturer instructions required that wide so that the drain is properly supported on each side with concrete for car and truck traffic.
"easy and fun"?????????????? I hate to hear your idea of "hard and not fun"!!!
In the process of doing this now. Come to find out I need to widen my cement trench 8” to get concrete on both sides. I cut the channel as wide as my drain and now understand that it needs to be bigger. Was going to put quickcrete I there then just add water but not anymore. Thanks for the video
I'm doing something same but one side is paver bricks. Nice 👌 I learned some from you thanks
Good luck, and take your time!
Excellent job. It looks great... very professional. The kind of job I enjoy seeing and learning from.
Glad you enjoyed it. It solved a major problem and sometime in the next few months I'll post a video showing how well it works.
Awesome video Thanks for the post... Great detail...
My next DIY project . Awesome
In the future, you might consider using solid sch40 PVC all the way to daylight. It'll flow a heck of a lot better. Once you have water in a pipe, you never want to put it in perforated, or you're just moving surface water to subsurface, and closer to the house, at that.
I agree... smooth wall does flow better. My note in the video said "perforated" but I meant to say "corrugated, non perforated". Schedule 40 is great, but sometimes I don't need that strength or protection from root growth. I run all my gutters through the 4" ADS along with pipe from the 4" sewer and drain family. I use Schedule 40 for a durable daylight outlet with an animal guard, and also use sched 80 under driveways. For a budget though, can't beat corrugated tile at $0.33 per ft if you have to travel a few hundred feet and snake around obstacles with no fittings.
Wouldn't use it in a region that freezes. Flexible and corrugated up here north of 49.
Most videos I have seen with this type of channel drain they advise against using corrugated pipe, most say to run solid pipe all the way to your daylight spot.
Exactly. Why catch it only to risk letting it out before it’s where you want it? But enjoying the installation video- excellent. Edit: channel owner clarified in another response below that it was corrugated but not perforated so all good.
Correct. We did use corrugated, non perforated pipe for this application. I agree with you: a solid pipe is a much better solution.
I would have let the concrete run under the drain assembly, (min. 4") You could have accomplished this by suspending the assembly with rebar bridging the top of the trench and tie wire. Just make sure to add some weight to the top so the assembly doesn't float up
Interesting thought, but you would need to vibrate or consolidate the concrete somehow to flow it underneath the drain and fill it completely so there are no voids. We were following the manufacturers instructions therefore used the gravel and sand as the structural base.
Ive watched other videos about this. Seems if you're not driving over the drain, then this gravel base is fine. If you drive over it, they recommended 4" of concrete under the drain as well as on each side.
@@robertgriz2500 Makes sense
Really nice guys
Looks great!
Do you consider installing a mesh cover to prevent leaves from falling into it?
Great video! What did you use to kerf the pavement?
I used a DeWalt demo saw with a concrete blade, hooked to a water hose to keep the dust down
Should have put a edge on it to make it look nicer although still a helpful video and nice to see a decent job done
I originally did, but then Tom wanted it blended like that so I switched it up. And it actually hasn't cracked on the blended area, surprisingly.
The part that escapes me is the slope/grade. How do you gain a slope over the run and still keep 1/8" relief along the top edge, drain top edge to driveway ? I have to do this as well for exact same reason.
Luckily, the driveway already sloped greater than 1/4" per ft in the direction we wanted to take the water. So, our slope was already built into the driveway slope from side to side, and maintaining the 1/8" margin between the top of drain to top of driveway automatically gave us the slope needed.
Thinking about other situations where the slope isn't already incorporated into the driveway... say if the driveway were flat from side to side: I would keep the 1/8" margin on the high side and on the low side there would be more than 1/8"... possibly one inch or more. In that case, I would slightly widen the relief cut on each side of the grate from 4" to 8", so there would be more distance to softly blend the top of the driveway to the top of the grate using concrete.
Yes, there would be more asphalt removed, and more concrete used, but this would allow a softer, and not as abrupt of a dip on the low side of the drain.
I hope this helps!
Especially when there is a "crown in the driveway" per the videography at the start of this production!?
I have two 12 ft garage doors that the guys who poured my slab forgot to put drains on. How am I going to slope this thing over 24 feet? Actually counting the space between the doors and the space at the end it’s like 28ft.
Good job. What is the radius of the rebar? .5 inches?
Yes, we used 1/2" diameter rebar
just learning, co-worker wants me to do something about water flowing toward garage, but it has eroded dirt from under cement ramp, rest of driveway is gravel, was thinking of a french drain, but like the looks of this better, but its a 2 car garage, so approx. 24' across. ill do some discussing with her
This is definitely the "deluxe" fix for a water issue that also requires it to be driven over. However, I've done a lot of drainage with French drains. The French drain could be a quicker and just as much effective fix, but either way, make sure you have the proper "outlet" and slope for the water you're collecting!
It has been two years since you put this in, have you seen any separation between the concrete and the asphalt or break down in either? I really need to install this in my Pacific Northwest asphalt drive to deal with our winter rains. Great video...many thanks!
And still no answer.
So how things working out? Follow up video?
How did it hold up? Up in ny state we use crusher run instead of sand. Kinda like installing a new fiberglass pool better stone then sand. Great video
The drain has held up great. It's been 3 years with traffic and no cracks to to the concrete or drain. The only maintenance is cleaning the great body from leaves and debris. I agree about using stone for everything concrete, but the manufacturer specifically wanted sand so that's why we used it. And we're in Upstate NY :)
Where does your water drain into? The ground?
We connected that drain into an underground pipe that takes the water to daylight
David, do you have a materials list used for this project?
BEGIN around 0:45 you're welcome
What is the average cost for this
Nice vid, thanks, very helpful!
Glad it helped!
So the water is drained off to the side. Won't that create a wet spot in the grass? How does the water drain away from this small hole or does it just sit there? In heavy rain, won't the water back up?
I think they connected one side to a French drain that led water away from the direction of the house
brad coody - You're right -- I didn't show how we connected a drainage pipe to the driveway drain, but that's what we did. That pipe takes the water 100 ft away from the house, downstream and daylights. I'll post a follow up video showing how this works.
@@davidpatrick3533 Great job~exactly my situation!
Mais l'hiver qu'arrive-t-il avec le gel au Québec
Thank you
The end of the drain does it have to be connected to the sewage
You should probably not connect it to sewage, and instead either daylight the drain or connect to a storm sewer system.
What is the advantages and disadvantages of using RELN channel drain? Could you have the drain just concrete bottom and sides topped with a metal drain?
The advantage to RELN is that it comes ready to install. Doing it the way suggested is just as good assuming it doesn't crack over time. The plus side to your suggested drain is that you can custom size it. The downside is you would have to form it and engineer it strong enough for your traffic weight.
what about plowing snow...will it rip that thing up?
The driveway has been plowed for 2 years since install and the drain has survived. It's doesn't stick up above the asphalt/concrete. Just have to be careful.
Looks a really good job. The black drain base looks plastic? If so does it last okay if a car wheel stops on it. Thank you.
It appears to be a composite, and rated for cars and light trucks... definitely don't want to park a full concrete truck on it.
Good 👍👍👍👍
How thick of a sand base did to do
we used around 4" of sand
any reviews how does it work in rainy days?
The next time it rains and I have my camera near the drain, I will definitely film it. Works great I hear!
If you had to run your drain to a dry well would you then use perforated pipe with gravel underneath it?
I would probably not use perforated, if you were trying to transport water from the storm drain to the dry well. You can use corrugated, non-perf pipe and probably dump it into the well if the well can handle the volume of water.
I'm not sure you need rebar for reinforcement since it's not really load bearing and it's only 2-3 inches across. Reinforced concrete would probably have been enough.
If it’s your multiple hours invested, why short yourself and not use $20 in rebar. I’m sure a vehicle constantly driving over this area will add stress
Could we see it working in a rainstorm
Yes, I will get my umbrella and get a follow up video for you!
And ruin a perfectly good camera??
Where does the water drain? Just into the ground right by the drain?
Right around the 8 minute mark, I show the PVC pipe being installed and explain that a trench needs to be dug and drainage pipe installed that takes the water away to a safe, lower spot. I don't show the drainage pipe being installed. I'm sorry!
looks cool :) next time make sure that the rebar is at least 3cm / 4cm off the ground its better for concrete makes it stronger and last longer
I agree -- the rebar was about halfway up the concrete during the pour. First, I placed 2" of concrete then I laid the rebar on the concrete then placed a few more inches of concrete above the rebar. Typically I place the rebar on the tensile side of the concrete which in this case should have been biased to the bottom.
Hello, nice job.
Is the grate supposed to be concave like in the video or is that from the weight of the autos.
Hi! The grate is shaped like that to be a low spot for water flowing across it so the water flows down into it.
How many bags of concrete did you use?
we used almost 6 bags
Do you have to put concrete under the drain? Or can you just pack the soil?
Definitely need concrete to support the drain so it doesn't crack with wheeled traffic.
Thx for the video. Why do you have to cut 8 inch while the trench drain is 4? If you just cut 4 then no need for concrete work? Thx!
Thanks for watching! The drain is made out of plastic/composite and needs support after it's installed or it will just crumble when driven over. The extra width cut to each side of the drain allows the concrete to "set" the drain in place and lock it in to keep it from shifting/moving. The concrete also provides the necessary lateral support for the vehicle traffic.
What kind of concrete should I use? It is for an existing concrete pool deck with only 1/2 “ left on each side? (I had a tighter space as drain was flush with wall of house). I can’t use the traditional bags of concrete because of all of the rocks mixed in it Has to be a smooth mix.
I'm sorry for the late reply. What about using Type S Mortar? No stones in that and it has some adhesion.
So where does the water go?
At 9:47, you see me putting the 4" elbow on. I didn't show it but that elbow connected to a 4" pipe that took the water downhill and daylighted about 100 ft away.
when installing trench /storm drain do I need to make a pitch? it's for my backyard
Yes, you need pitch. In an open ditch, 1/4 " drop for every foot of length will make water flow really well. With a smooth wall pipe, you can easily go flatter, more like 1/8" or 1/16" drop for every 1 ft length of pipe. Some of the really large diameter (24" diameter pipe) that we put in is basically flat.
Is the water going into that hole next to your driveway or it's connected to your local sewer system?
The drain was connected to a drainage tile that came to daylight 100 feet away from the driveway, and safely downstream of the house.
Why didn't you cut it only the 4 or 5 inches needed?
You need to pour supportive concrete on either side of the drain. This concrete is what locks the drain on place and supports it.
Great video and work by two nice gents. Job looked painstaking laborious. I would imagine a 'decent' contractor would have to charge $1500 to $2500 for such... so great savings DIY.
My lazy behind would have installed an NDS Catch Basin, in the grass on the low side of the drive and ran solid drain pipe to the neighbor's yard (in the middle of the night of course) :).
Kidding aside... why cut into a perfectly good, and extra thick, asphalt driveway like that!? Asphalt, concrete and plastic are like politicians... they move, settle and shift differently, depending on weight, moisture and temperature and eventually fail.
Yes, you're right. A better fix would have been if we put a catch basin on the low side of driveway/grass where the water is concentrated. Yes, agreed about the mix of materials. We are sure to see some cracks in time.
What would you do if there is no way to run the connecting drain to daylight due to the channeling drain being the lowest point of the property? Run it to a dry well? Thanks!
Tough call... Without a good outlet, it's a challenge. A dry well is a good option if you have one, or if you can dig one. Without seeing your issue and not knowing if this is possible or not... another option is to trench a drainage tile or cut a swale through the high area to get the water to a different, lower area. Gotta get that water away from there somehow!
My friend's driveway kept flooding in a low spot so he built it up, and put a culvert under it. But he also had a nice swale that took the water away.
Hi I have a question. The pipe that comes out of the actual drain, do you just let the water flow through the pipe and into the earth or did you connect it to anything underneath?
I'm sorry but I didn't show that important part of the process. That pipe actually connects to an underground drainage pipe that takes the water 100 ft downhill to daylight.
Take the water far enough away to a point where it will naturally drain with a good slope away from the driveway like a natural ditch or swale, or at least a spot that is far enough away where if it pools up it doesn't bother anything else.
@@davidpatrick3533 Thankyou for your reply back. I have just been on the google old google and been looking through a few pages and found some good ways, Thankyou for the advice David I really appreciate it👍🏽take care pal.
So the end of it (the 2 90 degree pieces), does that just drain down into the ground or is there a small pit with gravel for it to dissipate into?
That pipe actually feeds an underground drainage pipe that takes the water 100 ft downhill to daylight. I'm sorry but I didn't show that part of the process.
@@davidpatrick3533 how far away should the drain pipe run from the driveway? On average
I would take the water far enough away to a point where it will naturally drain with a good slope away from the driveway like a natural ditch or swale, or at least a spot that is far enough away where if it pools up it doesn't bother anything else. Take a picture of your situation and send it to me if you want more specific feedback!
@@davidpatrick3533 appreciate the feedback. It is raining hard here in Washington and I get 4-6” of standing water in front on the garage. I can run it probably about 50-60’ away into a natural ditch in front of my house
@@bluegill2030 a natural ditch sounds perfect! Remember that the driveway drain naturally puts the exiting pipe in the ground around 6" deep (unless you elbow it deeper like I did). For light lawn traffic, you'll probably want that pipe to have about 6" or (12" is better) of dirt cover over it to protect it. And try to get 1/8" of fall per 1' in pipe length meaning the pipe falls about 1" per 8 ft of pipe, or for 60 ft, the pipe will pitch down about 7.5" . That means at a minimum where you enter the ditch should be 13" to 19" below the top of the driveway drain. When daylighting into a natural ditch, to protect the pipe, usually I convert whatever pipe I'm using to schedule 40 PVC for the last 4 to 8 ft. That gives additional strength around the outlet when compared to using a lightweight drainage pipe.
Wear a respirator when mixing cement materials
Great advice!
And when inhaling the Chinese Wuhan Covid Red Death Virus.
I was going make the same comment! That stuff is very bad for your lungs and once in, it never leaves! Also important when cutting the trench - if your driveway is concrete, you will spend considerable time crouching in a cloud of cement dust.
Nice job but not clear to me how you maintain the correct fall in the drain if it’s always 1/8 lower than the road (which is unlikely to have the same fall)…
You can follow the road pitch even if it's more than 1/8", or, for example, if the road is flat, and you want to pitch the drain, then the pitch correction takes place in that zone that is cut beyond the width of the drain in that area where I placed the concrete. There will be a different slope along the length of the drain to blend the 2 different pitches together.
So these drains embedded in concrete can handle 5 tonnes I understand. So does this mean the first loaded oil, propane or UPS delivery truck that drives over this will destroy it? What has been people's experience?
You can buy heavier duty drains for heavier applications. Every drain specs the load it can handle. So you should definitely oversize the drain based on the weight you expect over it.
Yes! These crappy/plastic trench drains MUST be set w/ at least 8" of CA-6 beneath 6" of concrete 4000 PSI.
Hi which city?
Penn Yan, NY
Did you only bed that in sand? That's going to fail
Sand was manufacturer installation instructions.
It's lasted 3+ years with hundreds of vehicles, trucks, dump trucks, excavators, and boat trailers travelling over it during freeze and thaw cycles in upstate New York. Hasn't cracked, hasn't failed.
@@davidpatrick3533 you must have gotten lucky, that looks like a RELN drain. images.thdstatic.com/catalog/pdfImages/94/945badb5-1e8c-48dc-a227-d955024cca81.pdf
@@davidpatrick3533 the manufacturer instructions for asphalt is to encase it on concrete. that's a RLEN drain right?
I see at 1:30 they suggested sand, their specs have changed.
Great step by step I'm a woman I can do this
No way... unless you were a man first and had that surgery thing they do nowadays.
You can do anything you set your mind to do.dont have to have a sec change or a penis to be just as good as a man.
Why concrete instead of tar?
That's what the manufacturer recommended. And I added rebar for additional strength. I don't think tar's strength compares to steel reinforced concrete.
Can u paste link for that drain
It's similar to this: www.homedepot.com/p/RELN-Storm-Drain-10-ft-Channel-complete-with-Galvanized-Grate-003018/304162699
I think you said 48” lengths. I can’t find those 😭 that’s exactly what I need
You're right. Looks like only 40" lengths on RELNs website. Call them for suggestions. They were really helpful.
Very nice. Wanna come and do mine ?
Would have been nice to see where water runs off to… if it’s the yard you will have problems.. didn’t see any connections off of the pvc outlets on either side.
I'm sorry... I didn't video that part of the process. The PVC connected to a 4" drain pipe that led downhill about 100 ft to daylight.
Great Teaching Video ..... BUT the music added nothing .
Sorry for that.
Not bad, but your finished concrete looks a little sloppy. Also, I didn't quite get where that drain pipe goes. Does it just drain into the soil?
What's sloppy is me not wiping the leaves off before filming the finished product! It's been about 9 months since installed and surprisingly, the edge that we feathered has not cracked. While I offered to use an edger and put a straight edge transition on the concrete, the homeowner wanted it feathered and it's a smooth transition from asphalt to concrete. The drain connects to 4" underground tile and daylights about 100 ft away.
@@davidpatrick3533 "underground tile and daylights" are trade lingo. I don't know what these terms mean.
Ha! I figured you were in the trades since you critiqued the finishing of the concrete. Let me simplify my response for you: The water from the drain tile feeds into a pipe that is buried about 1 ft below the ground level. This pipe takes the water 100 ft away to safe location before it dumps it onto the ground, where it naturally flows away.
@@davidpatrick3533 I commented on the finishing as I would have commented on any other finishing.;) Thanks for the explanation. Now I understand the set-up. Good job.:)
@@davidpatrick3533 I know right, I thought dude was a concrete pro or something. I did appreciate the question about where it goes because that is exactly what I was also wondering.
Ya supposed ta show us what it looks like when it’s raining! Nice job though.
Sand might not have been the best thing to use as it will wash away!
Yup.. it cracked
What cracked?
AHHHH ! turn off the music. Otherwise nice job
This is the American($$$$$"expensive") way of solving drainage problem what I want is an Indian ( ₹₹"cheap") way of solving the same problem........ 🤔🤔🤔
The cheapest solution is to do a dance to stop it from raining :)
@@davidpatrick3533 💃🕺💃💃🕺😂😂🤣 . I prefer living in the desert ( no rain no drainage required)🤔.
The best, easiest, cheapest and "Indian" solution would be to move and NOT disclose your flooding issues to realtor, lawyer, home inspector or buyer!
@@symcardnel1741 According to Buddha there are 3 ways to deal with a problem
1.Solve it
2.Live with it
3.Leave it .
You suggested me the 3 rd way ( easiest way) .
I got it.Thank you 👍
You guys need a new Drummer
This video works best on MUTE. My gawd, you ruined it with that awful "music" (more like muzak, imo).
Pretty good video ruined with the music
Looks like shit I would have Edge the seams with the edger where the concrete and asphalt me
I agree and originally edged it, but homeowner wanted it feathered.
Stop the music.
I'm sorry. Mute it! I don't talk that much :)
Music sucks!!
STOP WITH THE STUPID MUSIC !!!!!
That’s not good work u don’t make ani drywell for that and also those plastic across the dryway ned to be sitting on concrete 👎
1. It wasn't a dry well. The 4" pipe was taken to daylight (not in this video)
2. The manufacturer called out to install the drain directly on the sand. And it's lasted 3.5 years with lots of traffic on it and hasn't cracked. Check back with me in 20 years and I'll give you another update.