How to remove the transmission on a 1999 Ford Ranger. This is a 5 speed manual with 2WD. 2.5 liter 4 cylinder engine. This procedure took about an hour.
I actually just dropped my transmission on my 2001 ford ranger, 4.0 SOHC 5 speed manual 4x4 this last weekend. Did it by myself, I actually took a block of wood, cut it down and notched it with a skill saw so it would fit flat on the bottom of the transmission. Then I took two ratchet straps and strapped it to teh bottom of the transmission. Grabbed my rolling jack, put it under there.. then wrestled it out and dropped it - only needed 1 hand to hold the driveshaft end!
Not so important but heads up. if you remove the positive cable to a battery and not the negative, you have a chance at causing a short. Like if a tool were too touch the positive side with the negative cable still attached. Always disconnect the negative first.
I bought a 199 Ranger that needed a fuel pump. Paid $200 for it. Changed fuel pump, EGR valve and tubing and put a new battery in her. She was running like a top....or so I thought. 185 miles later tranny goes out. Got another, gonna put it in this weekend 05/10/19. Thanks for the video!
I use ratchet straps that go around the top side of the frame when I do transmissions. And zip tying a zip lock bag over the tail end helps. Also make sure truck is in NEUTRAL before you pull the shifter out. Otherwise you need to pop the shift forks back into neutral with a screwdriver.
+John K Yes sir stole my method takes a little more time but its a lot safer and you can manipulate the transmission better without breaking into tears .
I recommend removing the shifter lever itself at the base holding bolt instead of removing the top "cap" of the transmission to remove the shifter lever. The NUT on the right side of the base of the shifter lever, remove it and screw it onto the left side of the shifter lever base bolt, it will pull the compressed pin bolt out of the tight fit . Remove the pin bolt and remove the shifter lever. Much simpler than how you did yours.
one tip so you dont spill any fluid if you want to keep it is putting a plastic bag (fold)on the transmission end and use electrical tape around after you take off the drive shaft
Here is another tip for you when you remove your transmission without the correct jack.. If you are using just a standard jack like you are using, grab yourself a 2x6 about 12 inches long and put it on top of your jack to give your transmission a little more support.. Also if you can screw in 2 eye bolts into the side of the 2x6 and take a ratchet strap and wrap it up and over the transmission to help secure it to the 2x6 it would also help...
I removed ALL the bellhousing to engine bolts but still wouldn't budge. One thing no one has ever mentioned... THE ENGINE TO BELLHOUSING BOLTS!! UGH!!! Stranded away from home. Three days under that dang Ranger in a parking lot trying to get to the clutch slave. There is a much faster and simpler remedy. Put an ad on Craig's List: Ford Ranger. Works great but needs a clutch slave installed. The slave is about $75. I'll take off $200. Best offer! Then, go buy yourself a 1998 Toyota (nothing newer) with low miles. The Toyota has an EXTERNAL clutch slave. Get your act together, Mazda!
I started with an 89 yota with the 3.sl0 that pos didn't get me very far in cali though, i got the ranger and i love it but if the clutch isn't 100% bled the transmission sucks. Fordzda needs to get their shit together
if you dont have a trans jack u can run rope around the trans behind the shifter and up thru the shifter hole and have someone lift from inside. it is a lot easier to manuver the trans for the reinstall. Hit it the first time and it rotated right in.
over the top of the trans mission and see the 2 bolts. Some finagling and a LOOOONG extension should be able to let you reach them. I know it seems counter intuitive, but looking forward from the rear of the trans really IS the easiest way to SEE those bolts. I used a massive extension and a swivel head socket wrench to pop them loose but a stubby socket or stubby crescent wrench will prob. do the trick just as easily if you are willing to try it the the "blind bellhousing hug" way.
Private Message me if you'd like more advice, it's hard to explain it on here and i'd like to spare others the hassle I went through. once you figure it all out it's one of those things that seems super easy, you just need to find the right angle to come at it from. Hope this helps!
0:50 Don't try the pliers or common screwdriver, it wastes time and damages the screws. Go to the store and buy a set of cheap, poorly-made star bits imported from China. 7:06 I'd drain the oil from the transmission overnight before beginning, but keep a plastic bag and rubber band handy in case it drips anyway.
I ended up doing the same thing I did on my Montero- very long extensions with a wobble at the end, doing the wrenching from behind the transmission. It helped to let the trans hang down without the crossmember to give a little more room to get the socket up there. He had a new clutch put in at one point and they must've really tightened them tight!! Took some work but we got it loose. Getting the new trans stabbed in with just muscles and a bottle jack was rough, but we got it. Thanks again!
About to give this a whirl in a few days on my 2008 Ranger, first slave cylinder failed at 57k, I had one replaced 3 years ago, lasted 20k and now its shot, I'm not paying someone else to do it this time!
I really appreciate the effort you took to produce this video. I had the "luxury" of watching not only your video, but many others. Yours was one of the best I could find that showed exactly how you got the tranny to the floor. Coming out, gravity is our friend. Over 30 years ago I did this the same way in my Dad's driveway on my '87 Mazda B2000. Putting it back together dang near gave me a hernia!
The funny part about you wrestling with that trans is that i find myself laughing....then recall the few times ive been in the exact same position. But it works!
Yeah, I was laughing at the transmission wrestling too. It's really cool that this was all done on his back with the wheels on the ground, no lift, no ramps.
I can't speak from experience, but I have been told that with the V6 you need to pull the exhaust. Soak the mounting bolts in some WD40 overnight, and then try going to work on them. If that doesn't work put some heat to them. Worst case is the grinder method. I hope you get it!
Not a mechanic so have a part question. At about the 6:15 minute mark you had backed the bolts out and for lace of a better way to put it wiggled a plastic looking piece at the front of the bell housing. What is that particular part called?
thanks Brandon job already done it took me about 7 hours to do it...now my 97 ranger shits like a champ...and for Jenniesgarage again M8 thanks a bunch...Ps. Jennies I'd used a tinny flat screw driver to release the fluid line from the housing I pushed kind of evenly all around it while pulling the line away...wasn't hard at all!
Took me as long to get the upper right hand bolt out as it did to get everything else out/disconnected to pull it. Wound up having to pull the cat converter, right front tire and plastic inner fender in order to weld a 1/2-13 nut on the rounded off bolt head to get the blasted thing out! Good news was the master cylinder didn't need the lengthy bleeding process. Was rock hard solid before reconnecting the high pressure line so I only had to gravity bleed the new slave cylinder. Thanks again!
The only thing holding me back right now from having mine off is the bolt at the top of the bell housing, a few inches from the firewall. I've put PB Blaster and that Loctite freeze shit on there, which got everything else loose. I just can't get enough leverage on my wrench to loosen the bolt at all. Any suggestions? Mine's a 96 with the 2.3, not sure if the bolt pattern would be any different.
Thanks! We need it! We're trying to get those two top bolts, and its a nightmare. We dropped the crossmember so the transmission would come down some so we could get to them, and it hardly budged! Do you have any tips on that?
it had master slave, clutch, throw out ect replaced at 98000 and has 150k on it now. So this one lasted less than the original? The first 98k was hard driving, paper routes, in and out of hundreds of driveways a night, last of the miles mainly normal driving and hauling 2-35 loads of scrap, so what gives with the hard shifting that happens one minute and not the next? Do I need a new tranny? The last clutch job didn't fix the hard shifting and was told the syncros were worn.
Nice work! Right now I'm trying to get a nut off that I stripped for my cross member bar. I'm just going to hand torch it off and replace the bolt later. I can't wait to see my fly wheel (hopefully not in rough shape). I only have a damn used clutch to put in it. Pray everything works well! Anyway I learned step by step by your video and is coming along nicely. BTW I have a Ford Ranger 1996 XLT and alot easier to change the clutch out compared to alot of other vehicles lol!
not to bad of a job, but instead of taking the 3 hex bolts out of the shifter, its easier to take the lock bolt out instead, if you pull the shifter out while the trans is in gear it can be a pain to get it back in
Finally got the starter off, ugg what a pain, had to use a lot of penetrating oil and a breaker bar. There was a lot of corrosion and a bit of rust on the bolts. Now I can finally loosen up the bolts on the transmission.
My 93 ford ranger 2 wheel drive got stuck in fourth gear and now its really hard to get in the first and second gear can't find 3rd gear is this a trany problem?
Usually watching some suffering details is satisfying to compare to my own experience. On a Toyota trans I did get the hernia, not sure at which point it occurred. Tranny jack, magnetic light, nitrile gloves, 4 jack stands, and snap ring plier set you probably own by now.
How did you get the 2 very top bolts? I'm working on a '97 2.3 and I can't even get my fingers back behind the block (sitting in the engine bay), let alone any tools. Also, is removing the crossmember necessary?
ngl the trans jack I borrowed dies almost immediately when I did my 240sx trans and watching you drop the trans was like watching play for play video of myself xD
That's the way we've done it for years. "Quick and Easy". I usually put a bag over the tail of the transmission, then got both knees in place under the transmission, pulled on the tail piece and sort of rolled either left or right to get the transmission to the ground. I was wondering about how heavy the Ranger transmission was due to the bell housing being integrated on the front of it. All of the ones I've done so far, the transmission was removed from the bell housing, not the back of the engine. But now I see it's do-able. I guess aluminum makes a huge difference. Thanks for the video!
I have to do this today. Just to replace a clutch line to the slave cylinder. Some idiot fucked the quick disconnect and jb welded it. Fucking irritating as hell the shit stupid people do when they don’t know what they are doing.
I replaced a clutch 95ford ranger what is the easiest way to hook the tranny up it's like something is blocking it going all the way into place what step did I miss why won't it go into place
Some quick pointers for you you don't have to take the starter wires off just take the starter bolts out and leave it up in the frame the starter itself the transmission bolts take all out but one there's dowel pins and input shaft it's not going anywhere until you pull that last one out jack up the car for you can get the rear wheels to spin so you can get at that other driveline bolt
This is a fantastic video! Still helpful today, in 2021. Trying to save the brand new transmission from my ranger, to resell before I send it to scrap.
I have a '92 Ranger with a 3.0 V6. Cannot remove this tranny without first removing the y-pipe and the catalytic converter along with disconnecting the two O2 sensors. Ford made the O2 connector lines long enough to extend to the top and rear of the engine. Why, I have no idea. I got the Y pipe loose from the exhaust manifold but I have to cut the bolts off the catalytic conveter to continue. Nevertheless, your video provides the rest of the details I needed. Thanks, Champ!
you dont have to take the 3 torx screws out to get the shifter off the trans.. just lossen that nut on the end of the shifter and install on the other side. and then off comes the shifter.. lots better and then you dont have to worry about makeing a mess when ya take out the trans
I just wanted to say thanks for taking the time to make and post this video. My friend has a 1990 Ranger with the M50D-R1 trans and we just got a new one shipped to us today, and with some tips from your video we got straight to it, and almost have it out already. He is a one banana mechanic, so a its slow going. Tomorrow I will be working on it and we'll have the trans out fairly fast. Your video made very clear a couple of spots I was unsure about.
I just bought the truck and the symptoms I am having is sometimes it's hard to put into gear and when I put it into neutral and come up to a stop it feels like something is releasing and pushing forward well after I put it in neutral. I'm thinking the pressure plate, or slave cylinder. Any opinions? It's never slipped or jumped out of gear on me. The clutch pedal feels normal.
LOL...I'm right there with you, except in my case I didn't use a tranny jack to start with. I took out a TH 350 automatic by sliding out from under the car on my chest. I then installed a M-21 4 speed with the same method...on my chest sliding it into position. Converted a 68 Chevelle from auto to 4 speed. PITB, labor intensive and quite a few years ago. Older now and there is much more of me so it might not work out anymore. Though I do have an 83 Ranger that I am about to change a clutch in.
I have a 98 ranger 4cyl manual that has an issue. Sometimes it shifts like a dream, othertimes it's hard to shift, sometimes needing both hands to force it in. I thought the floor mat was preventing the clutch pedal from going all the way down (and it have been) but the problems persist. It will cluck in first gear as if it is still partially engaged, sometimes it will grind and not go in or just not even get to the grinding point and it takes several tries to jam it in gear. It comes and goes.
I guess I should have tried this outdoors where there's more light, lol. Even with a drop light it's hard to see the transmission bolts in the garage. After the first two bolts on the bottom, the next ones I see have the bolt heads facing the engine, which really sucks. I'm having a heck of a time trying to even get to those, much less break them loose. I do have a transmission jack if I ever do manage it. Wish me luck, lol.
I just went through this myself, if you lower the transmission and let it be supported by the engine then it will tilt the engine just enough for you to see/access them. You will have to either work "blind" by "hugging" the bell housing (Laying with feet forward towards front of truck, body under bellhousing) OR You can scoot back till your head is just a little further back than the rear of trans, and look forward towards top of bellhousing, Then you should just barely be able to look forward
I enjoyed the swearing at 7:00, and is probably how I'll sound at that stage of the removal. You had fluid leaking from your trans, will that happen to mine? My transmission is sealed, and if it leaks like yours I'm not sure how I'll replace the fluid. Thanks.
I have the exact same truck. 1999 Ford Ranger 2.5l 5 speed. The pressure plate on mine doesn't seem to be releasing all the way and I am considering doing this job. Do you have any video of you putting the clutch kit on? BTW great video, almost makes me think I can tackle the job myself.
And the trani falls on his leg ouc lolif ur gonna be dum u better be tough haha no jk nice video better be quick an easy as much as fords blow transmissions hhaaa
So would you recommend doing the clutch while the transmission is out rather then waiting 2 weeks and getting to do it again isn't that how it usually goes
Thanks Ford! Only 150k on my bosses Ranger, but thanks to you I get to change the clutch, rear main, your shitty internal slave cylinder and get the flywheel resurfaced! Hey, alright! Had you of been my Toyota's, I could have FIELD fixed it in 30minutes (25min of cussing) with a 12mm wrench and a $30 part! Go Ford! No really, go away... Now my boss gets to spend a conservative $500 to fix this one part! :-0 Thumbs up to the genius over at Terd that thought this little gem up!
@7:14 - Yup. That sounds about right. Be changing a slave cylinder this weekend, you answered all the questions I had, in the AC, that I didn't want to go figure out in the dadbern Texas heat. 👍🏼 Thanks
Hi there I recently got a 1994 ford ranger 4x4 that needs the flywheel replaced I my self have never replaced a flywheel or took one off I can change brakes roaders and most other things pretty much the flywheel is one of the few things I've never had to mess with I know there is a big difference in replacing the flywheel so I was wondering what would be the best way for me to do this job I don't have a lift or anything but I do have a floor jack and jack stands can I lower the trans by using the the floor jack?? Or is there a way to replace the flywheel without removing the trans
Excellent video man, I have a 2000 Ford Ranger Automatic though. How much of a difference do you think it is. Because i need to remove it and get it replaced find one from a junk yard who knows dont know yet. It has 350,000 miles on it lol. Back and forth to Atlantic City every day since i bought it. Also how do you get it back up to the engine where it goes? Any help would be greatly appreciated, Goin to attemped this in the near future......
We've done it with a 4.0 Explorer while I was in school. The only must with that is a long, or several decently long extensions, and maybe a swivel haha. You don't have to go down very far, just far enough to catch a little eye sight on the top bolts. I like bouncing idea's off people, they might know a better way to save me time so theres my idea for you to help you out one day man! Haha
I know it's a little late, but I just ran into the same problem on my Mazda B2300. I climbed up there and held the breaker bar in place after tying a rope to the end of it. I had a buddy slowly pull and it came right off.
YOu do not bleed the clutch from the same connector he removed in this video. The bleed screw is a little higher up on the transmission. Use a 9mm box end wrench and a little bit of clear plastic tubing. (and a helper of course)
I have a question I dropped a transmission on 1988 ford ranger with a manual transmission yesterday and change the clutch and presser plate and now I have the transmission back on and bled the clutch and now it won't go into gear when I clutch it
Just finished doing mine that way. Same jack as OP. And a piece of 2x6. I was told i would have to remove exhaust. Not on mine. I did jack mine up though and set it on 2 stands. Not as skinny as OP :) 2000 v6 3.0 flex 2wd ford ranger
the hard part is getting the exhaust out of the way.I have to do mine for the second time. Last time I had a wire welder. This time I have to get the bolts to the manifold off. Pray for me.
MAN I HAVE BEEN TRYING FOR DAYS ON GETTING THE HYDOLIC CLCH LINE OUT FROM THAT STUPIT COUPLING I WISH I WOULD HAVE FOUND THIS VIDEO FIRST COUSE YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST AFTER LOOKING AT THE VEDIO I WENT OUT SIDE DID LIKE YOU SAID ON VEDIO AND IN LESS THAT A MINET THE DAM THING CAME RIGHT OUT THANK FOR THE VEDIO BIG RUBEN
I actually just dropped my transmission on my 2001 ford ranger, 4.0 SOHC 5 speed manual 4x4 this last weekend. Did it by myself, I actually took a block of wood, cut it down and notched it with a skill saw so it would fit flat on the bottom of the transmission. Then I took two ratchet straps and strapped it to teh bottom of the transmission. Grabbed my rolling jack, put it under there.. then wrestled it out and dropped it - only needed 1 hand to hold the driveshaft end!
"Quick and easy..." This had me laughing as you were pulling down the trans. Great video. Thank you!
Quick and easy all the way! The power of positive thinking!!
***** Quick and easy compared to front wheel drive or all wheel drive for sure! Rear wheel is always a pleasure compared to the other types of drive.
***** Im positive that wasn't quick or easy.
I'm dying of laughter OMG hahaha 🤣 I'm actually getting ready to do this myself I was just watching to get a refresher on what I needed to do !
@@jenniesgarage excuse me Sr, i would like to change the automatic transimission to manual, is it possible ? , have a nice day
Not so important but heads up. if you remove the positive cable to a battery and not the negative, you have a chance at causing a short. Like if a tool were too touch the positive side with the negative cable still attached. Always disconnect the negative first.
I bought a 199 Ranger that needed a fuel pump. Paid $200 for it. Changed fuel pump, EGR valve and tubing and put a new battery in her. She was running like a top....or so I thought. 185 miles later tranny goes out. Got another, gonna put it in this weekend 05/10/19. Thanks for the video!
I use ratchet straps that go around the top side of the frame when I do transmissions. And zip tying a zip lock bag over the tail end helps. Also make sure truck is in NEUTRAL before you pull the shifter out. Otherwise you need to pop the shift forks back into neutral with a screwdriver.
John K Good idea about the bag, that would keep things a lot cleaner.
+John K Yes sir stole my method takes a little more time but its a lot safer and you can manipulate the transmission better without breaking into tears .
+Batwing I also leave the drive line in the tranny to prevent mess
@@batwing9518 the tears part really hit home
I recommend removing the shifter lever itself at the base holding bolt instead of removing the top "cap" of the transmission to remove the shifter lever. The NUT on the right side of the base of the shifter lever, remove it and screw it onto the left side of the shifter lever base bolt, it will pull the compressed pin bolt out of the tight fit . Remove the pin bolt and remove the shifter lever. Much simpler than how you did yours.
one tip so you dont spill any fluid if you want to keep it is putting a plastic bag (fold)on the transmission end and use electrical tape around after you take off the drive shaft
Here is another tip for you when you remove your transmission without the correct jack.. If you are using just a standard jack like you are using, grab yourself a 2x6 about 12 inches long and put it on top of your jack to give your transmission a little more support..
Also if you can screw in 2 eye bolts into the side of the 2x6 and take a ratchet strap and wrap it up and over the transmission to help secure it to the 2x6 it would also help...
JayDeavor Good tips, thanks. Anything to help stabilize it is a good thing.
I removed ALL the bellhousing to engine bolts but still wouldn't budge.
One thing no one has ever mentioned... THE ENGINE TO BELLHOUSING
BOLTS!! UGH!!! Stranded away from home. Three days under that dang
Ranger in a parking lot trying to get to the clutch slave. There is a much
faster and simpler remedy. Put an ad on Craig's List: Ford Ranger. Works
great but needs a clutch slave installed. The slave is about $75. I'll take
off $200. Best offer! Then, go buy yourself a 1998 Toyota (nothing newer)
with low miles. The Toyota has an EXTERNAL clutch slave. Get your act
together, Mazda!
amen
I started with an 89 yota with the 3.sl0 that pos didn't get me very far in cali though, i got the ranger and i love it but if the clutch isn't 100% bled the transmission sucks. Fordzda needs to get their shit together
Same bro. Ranger/Mazda trucks are notorious for being hard to bleed the clutch on.
Back in '87 Mazda's slave cylinders WERE external to the bell housing.
This young fellow has the spunk that so many others need. He reminds me of someone I know 35 years ago... Gotta love it!
if you dont have a trans jack u can run rope around the trans behind the shifter and up thru the shifter hole and have someone lift from inside. it is a lot easier to manuver the trans for the reinstall. Hit it the first time and it rotated right in.
god bless you for this comment. im about to tackle this job tomorrow and this might save my life.
over the top of the trans mission and see the 2 bolts. Some finagling and a LOOOONG extension should be able to let you reach them. I know it seems counter intuitive, but looking forward from the rear of the trans really IS the easiest way to SEE those bolts. I used a massive extension and a swivel head socket wrench to pop them loose but a stubby socket or stubby crescent wrench will prob. do the trick just as easily if you are willing to try it the the "blind bellhousing hug" way.
Private Message me if you'd like more advice, it's hard to explain it on here and i'd like to spare others the hassle I went through. once you figure it all out it's one of those things that seems super easy, you just need to find the right angle to come at it from. Hope this helps!
On my truck, I was able to leave the exhaust alone. Good luck with the job!
0:50 Don't try the pliers or common screwdriver, it wastes time and damages the screws. Go to the store and buy a set of cheap, poorly-made star bits imported from China.
7:06 I'd drain the oil from the transmission overnight before beginning, but keep a plastic bag and rubber band handy in case it drips anyway.
Thanks for all the great tips every small town needs a man like you
I ended up doing the same thing I did on my Montero- very long extensions with a wobble at the end, doing the wrenching from behind the transmission. It helped to let the trans hang down without the crossmember to give a little more room to get the socket up there. He had a new clutch put in at one point and they must've really tightened them tight!! Took some work but we got it loose. Getting the new trans stabbed in with just muscles and a bottle jack was rough, but we got it. Thanks again!
dang it ... ya skipped the first part ... removing the boot and cup holder .....lol
About to give this a whirl in a few days on my 2008 Ranger, first slave cylinder failed at 57k, I had one replaced 3 years ago, lasted 20k and now its shot, I'm not paying someone else to do it this time!
I really appreciate the effort you took to produce this video. I had the "luxury" of watching not only your video, but many others. Yours was one of the best I could find that showed exactly how you got the tranny to the floor. Coming out, gravity is our friend.
Over 30 years ago I did this the same way in my Dad's driveway on my '87 Mazda B2000. Putting it back together dang near gave me a hernia!
an allen key will work in a torx screw most of the time
The funny part about you wrestling with that trans is that i find myself laughing....then recall the few times ive been in the exact same position. But it works!
haha yeah "no time for a jack!!"
Yeah, I was laughing at the transmission wrestling too. It's really cool that this was all done on his back with the wheels on the ground, no lift, no ramps.
I can't speak from experience, but I have been told that with the V6 you need to pull the exhaust. Soak the mounting bolts in some WD40 overnight, and then try going to work on them. If that doesn't work put some heat to them. Worst case is the grinder method. I hope you get it!
I have removed and re installed the trans out of a Ranger 4.0 v6 without removing the exhaust. No Problems.
Good idea about the rag, That will definitely help to keep the concrete clean!
Great job but ain't you got no friends to help I know I don't either except my son hard on one person.
Not a mechanic so have a part question. At about the 6:15 minute mark you had backed the bolts out and for lace of a better way to put it wiggled a plastic looking piece at the front of the bell housing. What is that particular part called?
thanks Brandon job already done it took me about 7 hours to do it...now my 97 ranger shits like a champ...and for Jenniesgarage again M8 thanks a bunch...Ps. Jennies I'd used a tinny flat screw driver to release the fluid line from the housing I pushed kind of evenly all around it while pulling the line away...wasn't hard at all!
Awesome Video and I hope you were ok when you had the transmission on your leg
Were the top bolts hard to get loose?
Took me as long to get the upper right hand bolt out as it did to get everything else out/disconnected to pull it. Wound up having to pull the cat converter, right front tire and plastic inner fender in order to weld a 1/2-13 nut on the rounded off bolt head to get the blasted thing out!
Good news was the master cylinder didn't need the lengthy bleeding process. Was rock hard solid before reconnecting the high pressure line so I only had to gravity bleed the new slave cylinder.
Thanks again!
The only thing holding me back right now from having mine off is the bolt at the top of the bell housing, a few inches from the firewall. I've put PB Blaster and that Loctite freeze shit on there, which got everything else loose. I just can't get enough leverage on my wrench to loosen the bolt at all. Any suggestions? Mine's a 96 with the 2.3, not sure if the bolt pattern would be any different.
Thanks! We need it! We're trying to get those two top bolts, and its a nightmare. We dropped the crossmember so the transmission would come down some so we could get to them, and it hardly budged! Do you have any tips on that?
it had master slave, clutch, throw out ect replaced at 98000 and has 150k on it now. So this one lasted less than the original? The first 98k was hard driving, paper routes, in and out of hundreds of driveways a night, last of the miles mainly normal driving and hauling 2-35 loads of scrap, so what gives with the hard shifting that happens one minute and not the next? Do I need a new tranny? The last clutch job didn't fix the hard shifting and was told the syncros were worn.
This is the first video i've seen you swear in. I've done a few transmissions where they landed on me as well, so I share that struggle, lol.
give it a light tap with a plastic mallet or hammer and a block of wood, sometimes they get stuck together.
Nice work! Right now I'm trying to get a nut off that I stripped for my cross member bar. I'm just going to hand torch it off and replace the bolt later. I can't wait to see my fly wheel (hopefully not in rough shape). I only have a damn used clutch to put in it. Pray everything works well! Anyway I learned step by step by your video and is coming along nicely. BTW I have a Ford Ranger 1996 XLT and alot easier to change the clutch out compared to alot of other vehicles lol!
not to bad of a job, but instead of taking the 3 hex bolts out of the shifter, its easier to take the lock bolt out instead, if you pull the shifter out while the trans is in gear it can be a pain to get it back in
Finally got the starter off, ugg what a pain, had to use a lot of penetrating oil and a breaker bar. There was a lot of corrosion and a bit of rust on the bolts. Now I can finally loosen up the bolts on the transmission.
did you use axle stands or a floor jack? It might be nice to show the first half and explain how much clearance one needs..
My 93 ford ranger 2 wheel drive got stuck in fourth gear and now its really hard to get in the first and second gear can't find 3rd gear is this a trany problem?
Great job!!! If anyone noticed this guy didn't even raise the truck!
Hahahahahah! That's pretty much how it went for every transmission I ever pulled. Backyard mechanicking at it's finest! :)
Great video. I like how you skip a lot of the stuff that is irrelevant and just show the basics.
Usually watching some suffering details is satisfying to compare to my own experience.
On a Toyota trans I did get the hernia, not sure at which point it occurred.
Tranny jack, magnetic light, nitrile gloves, 4 jack stands, and snap ring plier set you probably own by now.
looked a little heavy there for second or two :p
How did you get the 2 very top bolts? I'm working on a '97 2.3 and I can't even get my fingers back behind the block (sitting in the engine bay), let alone any tools. Also, is removing the crossmember necessary?
ngl the trans jack I borrowed dies almost immediately when I did my 240sx trans and watching you drop the trans was like watching play for play video of myself xD
That's the way we've done it for years. "Quick and Easy". I usually put a bag over the tail of the transmission, then got both knees in place under the transmission, pulled on the tail piece and sort of rolled either left or right to get the transmission to the ground. I was wondering about how heavy the Ranger transmission was due to the bell housing being integrated on the front of it. All of the ones I've done so far, the transmission was removed from the bell housing, not the back of the engine. But now I see it's do-able. I guess aluminum makes a huge difference. Thanks for the video!
Never trust a mechanic that needs a ride or to borrow some of your tools😂 If they're bald and their initials are JT I suggest you get another mechanic
I have to do this today. Just to replace a clutch line to the slave cylinder. Some idiot fucked the quick disconnect and jb welded it. Fucking irritating as hell the shit stupid people do when they don’t know what they are doing.
How can the entire video be out of focus. It seemed really informative, but the camera needs glasses real bad.
There no way you thought that Jack was a better idea than being prepared to muscle it out. It's 90 lbs man...
I replaced a clutch 95ford ranger what is the easiest way to hook the tranny up it's like something is blocking it going all the way into place what step did I miss why won't it go into place
Veey helpful thank you God Bless
Good example of how to "get er done"!!!! Just kiddin great video, very helpful to city folks
Glad you liked the video, thanks!
Some quick pointers for you you don't have to take the starter wires off just take the starter bolts out and leave it up in the frame the starter itself the transmission bolts take all out but one there's dowel pins and input shaft it's not going anywhere until you pull that last one out jack up the car for you can get the rear wheels to spin so you can get at that other driveline bolt
Ratchet straps/small come alongs are your friends when you don’t have a sufficient proper jack to use
This is a fantastic video! Still helpful today, in 2021. Trying to save the brand new transmission from my ranger, to resell before I send it to scrap.
This was a very well made video that helped a lot. Thanks.
Ill buy a transmission jack. Lol
+gman valdez Good call
At least use a motorcycle jack!
Can you remove the transmission without unbolting the exhaust?
I have a '92 Ranger with a 3.0 V6. Cannot remove this tranny without first removing the y-pipe and the catalytic converter along with disconnecting the two O2 sensors. Ford made the O2 connector lines long enough to extend to the top and rear of the engine. Why, I have no idea. I got the Y pipe loose from the exhaust manifold but I have to cut the bolts off the catalytic conveter to continue. Nevertheless, your video provides the rest of the details I needed. Thanks, Champ!
I hate how everyone puts the camera an inch away from the object like we’re gonna know what they are showing
you dont have to take the 3 torx screws out to get the shifter off the trans.. just lossen that nut on the end of the shifter and install on the other side. and then off comes the shifter.. lots better and then you dont have to worry about makeing a mess when ya take out the trans
I have a 1995 b2300 and the clutch is not sliping but the pedale is soft and to the ground and makes it harde to shift....any ideas please...????
There's air in the hydraulic system. Either continue to bleed master and/or slave as per You Tube instructions till its nearly rock solid.
did you have to remove the exhaust at all ?
I just wanted to say thanks for taking the time to make and post this video. My friend has a 1990 Ranger with the M50D-R1 trans and we just got a new one shipped to us today, and with some tips from your video we got straight to it, and almost have it out already. He is a one banana mechanic, so a its slow going. Tomorrow I will be working on it and we'll have the trans out fairly fast. Your video made very clear a couple of spots I was unsure about.
Those 3 rubber plugs at the the top 🙃
7:18 OW DUDE!. Great video btw.
I just bought the truck and the symptoms I am having is sometimes it's hard to put into gear and when I put it into neutral and come up to a stop it feels like something is releasing and pushing forward well after I put it in neutral. I'm thinking the pressure plate, or slave cylinder. Any opinions? It's never slipped or jumped out of gear on me. The clutch pedal feels normal.
Did I miss removing the crossover exhaust?
God damn when you stated bench pressing your trans mad man
Thanks for not showing how you got the top bolts out of the bell housing
nice job, only thing I would have done differently is put a rubber glove on the end of that tail shaft for wasted fluids.
LOL...I'm right there with you, except in my case I didn't use a tranny jack to start with. I took out a TH 350 automatic by sliding out from under the car on my chest. I then installed a M-21 4 speed with the same method...on my chest sliding it into position. Converted a 68 Chevelle from auto to 4 speed. PITB, labor intensive and quite a few years ago. Older now and there is much more of me so it might not work out anymore. Though I do have an 83 Ranger that I am about to change a clutch in.
I have a 98 ranger 4cyl manual that has an issue. Sometimes it shifts like a dream, othertimes it's hard to shift, sometimes needing both hands to force it in. I thought the floor mat was preventing the clutch pedal from going all the way down (and it have been) but the problems persist. It will cluck in first gear as if it is still partially engaged, sometimes it will grind and not go in or just not even get to the grinding point and it takes several tries to jam it in gear. It comes and goes.
I guess I should have tried this outdoors where there's more light, lol. Even with a drop light it's hard to see the transmission bolts in the garage. After the first two bolts on the bottom, the next ones I see have the bolt heads facing the engine, which really sucks. I'm having a heck of a time trying to even get to those, much less break them loose. I do have a transmission jack if I ever do manage it. Wish me luck, lol.
I just went through this myself, if you lower the transmission and let it be supported by the engine then it will tilt the engine just enough for you to see/access them. You will have to either work "blind" by "hugging" the bell housing (Laying with feet forward towards front of truck, body under bellhousing) OR You can scoot back till your head is just a little further back than the rear of trans, and look forward towards top of bellhousing, Then you should just barely be able to look forward
Thank's brother much love
I enjoyed the swearing at 7:00, and is probably how I'll sound at that stage of the removal. You had fluid leaking from your trans, will that happen to mine? My transmission is sealed, and if it leaks like yours I'm not sure how I'll replace the fluid. Thanks.
I have the exact same truck. 1999 Ford Ranger 2.5l 5 speed. The pressure plate on mine doesn't seem to be releasing all the way and I am considering doing this job. Do you have any video of you putting the clutch kit on? BTW great video, almost makes me think I can tackle the job myself.
And the trani falls on his leg ouc lolif ur gonna be dum u better be tough haha no jk nice video better be quick an easy as much as fords blow transmissions hhaaa
So would you recommend doing the clutch while the transmission is out rather then waiting 2 weeks and getting to do it again isn't that how it usually goes
Thanks Ford! Only 150k on my bosses Ranger, but thanks to you I get to change the clutch, rear main, your shitty internal slave cylinder and get the flywheel resurfaced!
Hey, alright!
Had you of been my Toyota's, I could have FIELD fixed it in 30minutes (25min of cussing) with a 12mm wrench and a $30 part!
Go Ford! No really, go away... Now my boss gets to spend a conservative $500 to fix this one part! :-0
Thumbs up to the genius over at Terd that thought this little gem up!
@7:14 - Yup. That sounds about right. Be changing a slave cylinder this weekend, you answered all the questions I had, in the AC, that I didn't want to go figure out in the dadbern Texas heat. 👍🏼 Thanks
Hi there I recently got a 1994 ford ranger 4x4 that needs the flywheel replaced I my self have never replaced a flywheel or took one off I can change brakes roaders and most other things pretty much the flywheel is one of the few things I've never had to mess with I know there is a big difference in replacing the flywheel so I was wondering what would be the best way for me to do this job I don't have a lift or anything but I do have a floor jack and jack stands can I lower the trans by using the the floor jack?? Or is there a way to replace the flywheel without removing the trans
7:13-7:17 every wrencher knows. Thanks for taking the time to video this for others to learn from.
been 3 days and i cant get mine back in any tips lmao
What year and model truck is this
Excellent video man, I have a 2000 Ford Ranger Automatic though. How much of a difference do you think it is. Because i need to remove it and get it replaced find one from a junk yard who knows dont know yet. It has 350,000 miles on it lol. Back and forth to Atlantic City every day since i bought it. Also how do you get it back up to the engine where it goes? Any help would be greatly appreciated, Goin to attemped this in the near future......
We've done it with a 4.0 Explorer while I was in school. The only must with that is a long, or several decently long extensions, and maybe a swivel haha. You don't have to go down very far, just far enough to catch a little eye sight on the top bolts. I like bouncing idea's off people, they might know a better way to save me time so theres my idea for you to help you out one day man! Haha
What year was this and did ya take the exhaust off ?
looking for how you got it back in now...
Found it yet buddy?
How would this work for a 1996 auto transmission Ford Ranger??? HELP MY TRANSMISSION IS SLIPPING!!! lol
I know it's a little late, but I just ran into the same problem on my Mazda B2300. I climbed up there and held the breaker bar in place after tying a rope to the end of it. I had a buddy slowly pull and it came right off.
YOu do not bleed the clutch from the same connector he removed in this video. The bleed screw is a little higher up on the transmission. Use a 9mm box end wrench and a little bit of clear plastic tubing. (and a helper of course)
I have a question I dropped a transmission on 1988 ford ranger with a manual transmission yesterday and change the clutch and presser plate and now I have the transmission back on and bled the clutch and now it won't go into gear when I clutch it
+Larry Duhon bleed it some more .
Did bleeding it more work for you?
I’m actually doing the same job but with a 4x4 model
@@mightymythicmusic4393 how much worse was it with the transfer case? I have a 4x4 that needs work.
@@John_NJDM do you have the clutch line with a cotter pin in it I got the cotter pin out but can't take it off am I missing something
I think I'll have a mechanic do this for me. Looks difficult
your legs will appreciate it.
Just finished doing mine that way. Same jack as OP. And a piece of 2x6. I was told i would have to remove exhaust. Not on mine. I did jack mine up though and set it on 2 stands. Not as skinny as OP :)
2000 v6 3.0 flex 2wd ford ranger
the hard part is getting the exhaust out of the way.I have to do mine for the second time. Last time I had a wire welder. This time I have to get the bolts to the manifold off. Pray for me.
MAN I HAVE BEEN TRYING FOR DAYS ON GETTING THE HYDOLIC CLCH LINE OUT FROM THAT STUPIT COUPLING I WISH I WOULD HAVE FOUND THIS VIDEO FIRST COUSE YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST AFTER LOOKING AT THE VEDIO I WENT OUT SIDE DID LIKE YOU SAID ON VEDIO AND IN LESS THAT A MINET THE DAM THING CAME RIGHT OUT THANK FOR THE VEDIO BIG RUBEN