SX-70 Film Door Repair - How to replace the rivets in the metal panel

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  • Опубликовано: 7 окт 2024
  • Let's get back to basics with a more straight-forwards repair video.
    Today, I show you my method for replacing the rivets on the SX-70 door's metal film-retention plate
    Like what I do? Find this video helpful or entertaining?
    Feel free to buy me a beer (or two!):
    ko-fi.com/thei...
    Getting artifacts in the video? For best quality, manually select 1080p quality, as depending on your bandwidth, RUclips may default to 720p - and RUclips's 720p compression looks like garbage
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    In this video, I demonstrate how to replace the SX-70 door rivets using off-the-shelf parts from your local hardware store.
    I often find loose rivets on SX-70 Model 2 cameras. Why this is the case I am not sure, but it is likely to do with Polaroid using a different rivet supplier during the mid 1970s.
    While replacing the rivets with 1/16th size brass units would maintain originality, it comes at the cost of requiring specialized tools and custom made rivets.
    My solution not only uses parts you can find at your local hardware store, but should be stronger than originals. They also sit more flush in the metal panel, meaning less divets if you re-skin in thinner leather.
    My SX-70 repair skills are entirely self taught. When I started over a decade ago there was practically 0 in-depth information online on how to repair these cameras. Official repair manuals did exist, but were of very little help since they reference a plethora of factory-specific tools.
    Being in Australia - a geographically isolated location, without any official factory tools or NOS parts, I was often forced out of necessity to come up with novel solutions for repair.
    My preference is always to keep things as 'off the shelf' as possible, so as not to be heavily reliant on obscure 3rd party suppliers or custom made parts. My PolaVolt battery solution is a good example of this.
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    Got a Polaroid that needs some love? Hit me up!
    / instantcameraguy
    / theinstantcameraguy
    www.theinstant...

Комментарии • 9

  • @monochromebluess
    @monochromebluess 3 месяца назад

    Excellent yet simple.
    Is it not worth doing all four rivet’s at the same time - even if in this case 2 are OK as the leather skin has been removed
    Future proofing that all rivets last the same length of time ?
    It’s certainly another future proof technique string to your bow to add to the PolaVolt etc. Great suggestion.
    Looking forward to the 2000 special show.
    A question for the show is -
    Can the PolaVolt be added to a box camera instead of the current 4 x AAA I type addition.
    With your box camera version you are using 4 x 1.5v AAA batteries to give the required 6 volts.
    Could you not just use the PolaVolt case with its 2 x 3.7v AAA batteries reduced with the buck converter to give you the 6 volts.
    I appreciate that way you would not have a switch to go from I type to 600 on the camera but it would give a smaller plastic part on the camera shell and as I type film is cheaper and it’s 600 film anyway would not that film really only ever be used ?

    • @theinstantcameraguy
      @theinstantcameraguy  3 месяца назад +1

      @@monochromebluess it's certainly possible, but would involve drilling out the rivets, which is much harder than simply pushing them out when they snap
      It's hard to know for sure but I often wonder if it was a sort of factory defect that resulted in them snapping either at or shortly after the factory put them in
      Because those rivets are quite hard to snap! I have never seen one snap from force, only ever found them pre-snapped
      So I likely wouldn't bother swapping them all
      As for PolaVolt on box cameras, yes it's possible, but you'd need to add a manual switch to interrupt the battery before the buck converter. You'd also need to remove the original battery terminals in the camera so as to not risk damaging the buck
      Regular AAA is a better solution, and allows both AAA and 600 pack batteries to be used at the flick of a switch

    • @monochromebluess
      @monochromebluess 3 месяца назад

      @@theinstantcameraguy Thanks Jake. Well explained on both points.
      My reasoning clearly shows why your the instant camera guy …and I just a poor customer.

  • @robmau2479
    @robmau2479 3 месяца назад

    Great video, just what I was hoping to learn how to fix my damaged door. A follow up question, how would you repair the flap that is spring tensioned? I have a flap is separate from the door. Thanks.

    • @theinstantcameraguy
      @theinstantcameraguy  3 месяца назад

      that is a much harder repair. The flap is heat-staked in place. Much more complicated to fix
      I've had success with screws in the past. But it's a very fiddly job

    • @robmau2479
      @robmau2479 3 месяца назад

      Thanks

  • @itogi
    @itogi 3 месяца назад

    1:44 Those people probably saw box-type designs before seeing SX-70 and thought that the picture comes out in a similar way in SX-70.

    • @theinstantcameraguy
      @theinstantcameraguy  3 месяца назад +1

      I get that, except in a box camera there is a clearly defined and obvious slot.
      It's people that don't bother to read the manual or look at a user guide when they get confused
      Watching literally ANY video of the camera in action (or reading any manual) would quickly show you that it was the way it was designed to eject.
      Over the years I've had a few people contact me very upset thinking that their camera was damaged, accusing me of selling them faulty merch, and I've seen one person decide that this form of ejection was incorrect, and thus SUPERGLUED THE FLAP DOWN!
      Lucky its not super common... but I'm always utterly baffled when it happens

    • @Ni5ei
      @Ni5ei 3 месяца назад

      ​@@theinstantcameraguy I heard that person later starved in their house because they had a door draft and decided to brick up the door.