Old timer once told me to tighten a seized bolt first before you try to loosen it - if you can get it to move one way then it’ll move the other way and you won’t have damaged the bolt head - always worked for me
Perhaps kicking the GT out into the cold under a cover for a few days might have been worthwhile as you can’t rely on the weather at this time of year. You can pretty much guarantee something won’t go to plan when working on old MGs. Enjoying the videos.
I had the same problem with the bolts in the RH engine mount the first time I changed the timing belt (my F had been siting for at least two years before I bought it). The trick to getting the bolts out is to use an impact gun that can produce over 1000 ft-lb of torque, that will break the galvanic corrosion between the aluminium alloy mount and the steel bolts.
Had the same problem with those bolts got them in the end with daily spray of WD 40, still a pain in the neck job though. Well done fo sticking at it , will continue to watch with interest, at the end of the day I think the TF,s are worth the effort, all best Gra J.
FYI There are 3 bleed points for the coolant, rad, engine bay and heater in the bonnet. Also best to raise the back end. If you had got the specialists mobile mechanic's in, £300 done in hours, even with seized bolts.
I’m pretty sure the engine mount had studs and nuts rather than bolts the last time I poked around one (just to remove it from the block as it’s not used on the K Midget conversion) Much better for not corroding together and easier to cut the nuts off, if the worst comes to the worst. Though I guess there’d be no room to lift the mating bit over the studs if they were used on MGF/TF 🤷♀️
Did you manage to remove the engine mount bracket in the end. I have watched several videos and only the Rimmer Bros makes it look easy. Before I started the head gasket failure issues on my car I spent a lot of time researching the best recommended penetrating fluid and chose Bulldog BDX at £13 per tin. I applied it every day for a week before starting the job and can say it hasn't worked. i havent used any heat as yet because I don't want to risk a fire. I can only say it seems almost impossible to remove the brackets. The two bolts and one nut on the top of the bracket seem to be hampered by the slight angle making it difficult to get a socket on the head of the bolts. I am considering trying ti remove the whole bracket but access to the bolts is awful-a nightmare is a pleasure compared to this.I tried all the tightening and loosening process, extension on the breaker bar gave up on that due to not wanting to break my tools. I have a good quality pneumatic impact wrench which I have never used, sent for some impact sockets but due to the access doubt they will work either.
Sorry for the late response, life's bonkers at the moment. No I couldn't remove it from the sub frame like they did in the Rim bro video as the bolts were seized. Just opened that gap between the mount and the block.
Sorry for the late response. Life just bonkers at the moment. I just couldn't get the torque in... I managed to use some rope and support a pry bar but the pry bar bent. They're not coming out ever.
That old cambelt looks in pretty good nick - as it's only done a few miles and sat for a few years, did you examine it to see if it was showing any signs of needing replacing?
Old timer once told me to tighten a seized bolt first before you try to loosen it - if you can get it to move one way then it’ll move the other way and you won’t have damaged the bolt head - always worked for me
Perhaps kicking the GT out into the cold under a cover for a few days might have been worthwhile as you can’t rely on the weather at this time of year. You can pretty much guarantee something won’t go to plan when working on old MGs. Enjoying the videos.
... a long long way to go before the TF has any chance of ousting the GT.... 👍👍😀😀
I had the same problem with the bolts in the RH engine mount the first time I changed the timing belt (my F had been siting for at least two years before I bought it). The trick to getting the bolts out is to use an impact gun that can produce over 1000 ft-lb of torque, that will break the galvanic corrosion between the aluminium alloy mount and the steel bolts.
Great work, I've had several of these. great little motors, fun to drive....wish I had your mechanical knowledge 👍🇬🇧
Thanks Paul. Plenty of help on you tube, and low risk given the value of the cars. 👍
Great job. Those bolts are a bugger - but really enjoyed following your process and having the tenacity to keep going.
Thanks for the nice comment. More to come soon, getting there now she's moving.
What a pain but great work. Nice to see some TF content on RUclips.
Thanks, much more to come.
Great video, I feel your pain😂. I did my mgf timing belt back in the summer, no seized bolts thankfully.
Thanks buddy, oh how I long for the summer or a double garage at least.
Stumbled upon your channel and have subscribed, great stuff, look forward to many more 👌🏾
Thanks for the great comment.... more to come if I can get some suitable weather. 👍
Had the same problem with those bolts got them in the end with daily spray of WD 40, still a pain in the neck job though. Well done fo sticking at it , will continue to watch with interest, at the end of the day I think the TF,s are worth the effort, all best Gra J.
Thanks Gra.... itching to get her moving. It's taking forever due to the ruddy weather and dark nights.
Have my tf belt,pump to do soon, video been a great bit of inspiration.Hope I can get those two mount bolts out.
Good luck.... 👍👍👍
Have been soaking bolts with penetrating oil for several days as seized. Managed to undo front one.Will continue with front bolt loosened to aid flow
Taken about ten days of soaking and straining with my long bar but have finally got both bolts out. 😅
Well done..... more patients than I had. 👍👍
@@Exhausted-autos thanks, watching your videos gives inspiration, as like you I don't have a vehicle lift or workshop.
FYI There are 3 bleed points for the coolant, rad, engine bay and heater in the bonnet. Also best to raise the back end. If you had got the specialists mobile mechanic's in, £300 done in hours, even with seized bolts.
Thanks John, yeah I did the third bleed yesterday already full of fluid, which was good. Yeah not expensive but then I'd miss out on all this fun 😉.
Another great one Craig, keep them coming
I’m pretty sure the engine mount had studs and nuts rather than bolts the last time I poked around one (just to remove it from the block as it’s not used on the K Midget conversion) Much better for not corroding together and easier to cut the nuts off, if the worst comes to the worst. Though I guess there’d be no room to lift the mating bit over the studs if they were used on MGF/TF 🤷♀️
Bolts are correct, they should not be studs and nuts.
Buddy there's a bleed piomt on the heater matrix it's sit underneath the black plastic cover by the windscreen scuttle
Thanks Paul, I'll do a quick bleed on that one tomorrow..... 👍
What a nightmare.
... it really was and also freezing!!!!
Did you manage to remove the engine mount bracket in the end. I have watched several videos and only the Rimmer Bros makes it look easy. Before I started the head gasket failure issues on my car I spent a lot of time researching the best recommended penetrating fluid and chose Bulldog BDX at £13 per tin. I applied it every day for a week before starting the job and can say it hasn't worked. i havent used any heat as yet because I don't want to risk a fire. I can only say it seems almost impossible to remove the brackets. The two bolts and one nut on the top of the bracket seem to be hampered by the slight angle making it difficult to get a socket on the head of the bolts. I am considering trying ti remove the whole bracket but access to the bolts is awful-a nightmare is a pleasure compared to this.I tried all the tightening and loosening process, extension on the breaker bar gave up on that due to not wanting to break my tools. I have a good quality pneumatic impact wrench which I have never used, sent for some impact sockets but due to the access doubt they will work either.
Sorry for the late response, life's bonkers at the moment.
No I couldn't remove it from the sub frame like they did in the Rim bro video as the bolts were seized. Just opened that gap between the mount and the block.
Oof! Only one f bomb? I'm sure many more edited out 😂.
Many many more.... that was a tough job. Cheers for the views buddy. 👍
@exhausted - what torque did your wrench have that couldn't shift it?
Sorry for the late response. Life just bonkers at the moment.
I just couldn't get the torque in... I managed to use some rope and support a pry bar but the pry bar bent. They're not coming out ever.
General comment, you use WD40 to un-seize bolts? I thought Plus-gas was the way to go?
No real difference in my experience..... 👍
Cam belt looked difficult. Would you recommend doing it yourself or take to a garage?
If you have time in your hands and are handy with the spanners you can do it yourself.
That old cambelt looks in pretty good nick - as it's only done a few miles and sat for a few years, did you examine it to see if it was showing any signs of needing replacing?