From my experience, oil always produces a white smoke whereas excess fuel produces bluish/black smoke. I enjoy all of your videos and think you do a great job!
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the oil flows the other way around. The oil travels from the crankshaft through the hole in the Connecting Rod Bearing. Then there are passages in the Connecting Rod that go up to the Piston Pin and also to the Oil Jets on both sides of the Connecting Rod. The Oil Jet squirt oil upwards to the underside of Piston which then drips to the holes of the Oil Control Ring. The middle Oil Control Ring stores the oil lubricating the Cylinder Walls and then the top & bottom Oil Control Ring will scrape the oil off the Cylinder Walls.
+lazal3m yep this is what I covered in my oil lubrication video. After the oil ring scrapes the oil off the cylinder wall, it goes back through the Piston head through those holes behind the oil control ring, to drip down into the sump.
My G35 has this issue. Can't afford a new engine right now and currently burning 5 qts of oil every two weeks... getting worse. Good informative video👍
All the videos I ever watched trying to learn how engines worked, no-one ever showed the rings in as much detail as you did in these couple mins just now. They just say they're to stop oil and then slot them in during their rebuilds. I can see much better now how they compress a bit, why they don't damage the cylinder walls, how the oil actually drains (I thought it all just got scraped down the cylinder wall), etc. It's just a nice level of detail for us guys who've read some basics but never had the chance to see these things up close. Like I said in another comment, you're making this stuff so much more accessible. I never pulled cars apart because it all seemed too confusing & beyond my abilities - grainy black and white pictures in Haynes manuals often confused me more than they helped. I'm sure with your videos you're showing kids they needn't fear fixing their own cars mate. Your a fantastic human sharing all this.
Thanks for the easy comprehensive explanation of why I keep dumping gallons a week in my car. And I just thought it might have been a pcv valve ( hoping for an easy fix ) now I gotta start looking for another car
Quick story.. Last year in 2021, I bought a 2006 Honda Accord 2.4L/5-speed/Coupe/EX-L with 155k miles. I was not DIYing my oil or anything at the time. Having purchased the car from a mechanic, I didn't check the oil for a couple weeks, and when I did it was BONE dry, just a drop maybe. After putting in enough oil and checking, I realized it was burning a ton of oil. I think it was burning over 1 QUART PER 1k miles, maybe more! I went through a 5 quart bottle quite quickly. I also noticed black sticky residue on the tailpipe tip, but not really much smoking that I could see. This put me into a bit of a panic and swapped my current research and hobbies over to car DIY; researching, reading, buying repair manuals, etc. I've come across this piston ring information several times on RUclips and Accord forums. At first, and being a newbie, I thought maybe this 'AT-205 reseal', MMO, or some sort of additive. But AT-205 is for rubbers, not metal rings, I kept reading and watching random videos. In the meantime, I changed and added oil as needed. I used SuperTech and Mobile 1, but mostly SuperTech once realizing they are basically the same oil. I changed it as soon as possible, then at 2500, 3000, 4000, and now 3k-5k miles. I've put on 20,000 miles already. Forward in time about 5 months and the oil consumption has slowed to a crawl! It used about 1.5 quarts over the last 5000 miles! I'm guessing the car had sat around before being sold(some other clues were there also), with old oil, and it GUNKED up the rings. However I think the frequent changes have cleaned them out! I was looking at some condensation coming from the tailpipe last week and also noticed that the nasty GUNK that was built up, it is nearly all GONE!?! huh?! I wanted to clean it off to see what the new build up would be, but it's gone! I've also added a quart of Marvel's Mystery sparsely, mostly in the oil, a bit in the gas. That also seems to have helped; today's oil change was less black and much less was burned off. It's puzzling to me why someone would sell such a good car. Sure it has some other minor issues, a small water leak, and a bit of the headliner is just starting to separate, but man it's a great personal car, peppy, comfy... and I'm not looking forward to all electronic everything of the new cars. Thanks for the videos; your teardowns and explanations have been well worth my time! Edit - a couple things and added clarification without altering content
Wow nice! Lucky that the piston rings didn't scrape off too much of the cylinder wall and were just gummed up, those frequent oil changes just might have saved you engine. how's it holding up?
@@Zaidi_227 Indeed a bit lucky, thank you for the reply! The engine is feeling great, very responsive with the manual transmission; hopefully any damage is minimal. The oil burning currently is about 1 quart every 3000, at 186k miles. I will say that using 5w30 instead of 5w20 seems to also help slow the consumption, as per accord forum posts. I try to change the oil every 3k so I'm only adding a half quart after about 2k, and pulled almost a full 5 quarts out last time! I was ecstatic to say the least! I really really enjoy this particular car, so before falling in love I had a couple mechanics take a look and evaluate based on long term drivability. They all seem to agree that it's worth holding onto and to start fixing up the suspension, coolant exchange, transmission fluid, etc, etc. The car has felt nearly brand new since I bought it with 150k, though a hiway vibration creeped up after a nasty pothole. I have had done the lower control arms, ball joints, CV axles, used aftermarket rims, and this mostly fixed the vibration, with just a tiny bit left at 70 mph. Anyway I'm rambling and thank you for reading.
@@JMRSplatt hahaha I love reading the details if someone is willing to share, so thanks for sharing. I'd also say the same as your mechanics, IF you don't mind the partial oil burning and topping up the oil every now and then, then you should keep it I mean...you've already almost driven it 40k miles on top of 150k miles of neglect and abuse while still having an oil burning issue which got better because of your care, despite all of that the engine still runs great(according to you)...goes to show the quality of honda engines. Anyhows, Im happy to hear that your engine is doing well and you sound like you know what you're doing so just keep changing that oil and enjoy your car!
@@Zaidi_227 I appreciate the input indeed! I was a bit on the fence of keeping or buying something new/recently new. I love technology but not a fan of all the excessive electronics in modern cars. Push button start/stop, push button parking brake, touch screen everything.. keep it out of the car, in my opinion. Also new Honda Accords are not offered in 2 door, or with a manual transmission anymore. Not available. :( Thanks again. :)
I'm glad that you mentioned only some cars burn oil. Not all cars do, especially engines that were designed and engineered with surgical precision. A good engine will not burn oil. But, wear and tear will do their part. Generally, an engine that is burning oil will eventually gum up your sensors and EPA controls.
I noticed that oil was being drawn thru the PCV valve and valve cover vent tube (lots of oil) in my old 2000 toyo/lexus v6 and oil consumption dropped/stopped after temporarily plugging those tubes..............kn air filter also cleaned....clogged air filter may also increase oil consumption thru those tubes.
I noticed heavier oils like lucas won't drain back via the tappet cover baffle drain hole so it gets sucked in and burned. Once you go back to the proper oil, (if it still burns oil,) Wonderdust will stop it burning oil, and bring up the compression, reducing blow by and crankcase pressure/load on pcv valve.
I was able to replace an 02 Camry's valve stem seals with the head intact. It can be done by removing the cams, rotating the piston about to be serviced into TDC and blowing compressed air into the combustion chamber. Remove and reinstall the valve keeper and seals one at a time on the cylinder that is pressurized.
Thanks! So funny your bothers underwear!! You are an expert! Very didactic in few minutes, people dont bore, direct to the point. I like your videos, keep sharing.
Ethanol fuels are one of the major culprits in causing sticky rings. Ethanol oxidises to form aldehydes which then polymerise to form a sticky sludge that takes ages to remove. The sticky rings allow fuel into the sump and which thins the oil and reduces lubrication. This loss of lubrication results in piston and bore scoring even in low-mileage cars. 🙂
Marc Hauser, Actually older vehicles require thicker oil to fill those worn out specs due to aging. My 20 years old Honda was labelled as for 10/30 grade . I have switch to a higher grade
Gotta be careful using someone's sock. You don't know what they used it for. Great material btw. I had to replace my Toyota Yaris engine a month ago. The engine used to consume 3 Liters of oil each week in its last days. Now it all makes sense
+Hamza Raissouli thanks. Haha the sock was clean, you should have seen when I tried it with my brother's underwear..that didn't go too well... What year and mileage was your Yaris? I know Camry and Corolla was affected but not Yaris..
I would think the oil control ring would leave a very thin layer of oil on cylinder walls for lubrication of the compression rings? If there were no oil for the compression rings the rings would wear out very quickly. So, with that in mind, by nature of design, even a brand new engine will burn / consume a certain amount of oil. BTW, I have a 1996 Isuzu Rodeo with 3.2 V6 engine that has now begun consuming oil via the valve guide seals after 472,000 miles. The engine still runs fairly well but I decided to completely rebuild the engine as the Rodeo itself is cosmetically in great condition. Thanks for posting this video!
To avoid piston ring clogging use an a expensive oil brand such as Mobil 1 0w40 and change every 5k ... plus use the best fuels available .. I have a 2.0 tfsi Audi never had a oil consumption problem
I think sometimes they replace valve stem seals while applying air pressure in the cylinder, through the spark plug hole, to push the valves up, without taking the head of.
I would add - air filter and long-term driving from a clogged, engine ventilation, very frequent driving with a heat-cooled engine, (dialing the cold engine to the maximum) ....I'm giving a subscription
Thanks for the video. However, I didn't get why not fixing the problem on a high mileage car is better than what you suggested: Change oil (more frequently?) with a high quality oil? Is it because "The only way to cure oil burning past the rings are to drill holes in the piston heads and change the rings, which requires a full engine tear down."
+Eugene Cartwright higher quality synthetics tend not to break down into sludge as easily as cheap bulk oil, reducing the chances of it clogging Piston holes.
Excessive oil consumption and Toyota go hand in hand. Usually starts around 80K and will increase to well over 3 quarts in between changes. Eventually you burn an exhaust valve.
Straight up man, you sir are a genius. this is like reverse engineering braingasm! Honestly I hope that you are getting well compensated for your work. Have you heard of patreon and the like?
With these newer engines, can you pressurize the cylinder by the S plug hole, then remove each valve to replace the valve stem oil seals? I think this procedure was used for Older engines. BTW, great video! Thank you.
I really like your videos. I learn a lot from them. But this video says it's necessary to remove the cylinder head to replace valve stem seals. I didn't have to remove the head when I replaced the valve stem seals on my 94 Tercel.
Another awesome video - loved it. Not all cars are impossible to change valve seals due to cylinder head removal. Did my Suburban after 240k and it only requires removal of the valve covers not the head. Yes it is a major job - took two Saturdays for me - did one side one weekend and the other the next weekend. It single handily solved my oil consumption issue. Very satisfying job. Would you recommend doing the Seafoam in the cylinder process to clean out my oil rings? Thanks Speedkar99 keep up the good work! Give your brother our best....
speedkar99 - did the old compressor air in the cylinder at ~60 psi. Apparently when the cylinder is at top position the valves will not fall through but I did not want to test that theory! A balloon attached to the hose worked great to determine a given cylinders top position. Thanks again
1. Use high quality synthetic motor oil. 2. Use high quality oil filter. 3. Change oil & filter often. 4. DON'T BE STINGY AND/OR LAZY AND/OR NEGLIGENT.
Great video , at first my 2009 Camry started burring oil , I replaced the PCV valve but that did not fix the issue then my mechanic said that He has to replace the rings and that's a big job and will cost about 1400 $. Not sure if its worth it or should I just buy a refurbished engine . All cars that pass the 100 K miles have this oil burning problem.
You real explain things properly. Proper demonstrations. Straight to the point. I am learning a lot from your videos..( and soon I am expecting to open my full equipped garage in my region where I live-Dar es salaam Tanzania) -Keep posting your educative videos.
Please advise me if the piston rings can be done without removing the engine, I was led to believe that piston rings can be done by lifting the head and removing the sump. I have audi a3 BSE, 1.6 engine . Because My engine is burning oil mileage is 103000 miles.
Unless your owner's manual specifically requires it, consider switching to conventional oil and changing it every 4-5K miles. Its laminar flow characteristics (not precisely the correct term) are different than most "synthetics" and you may see much less of that sort of oil burning, which isn't good for your catalytic converter.
My car burns oil but the compression is great. The compression rings are still fine but the oil control rings (which are really springs as shown here) must be gunked up. Should I dump some auto rx in there or replace the oil control rings? Hmmm...
Great video....thanks Question...I replaced the valve seals with oem parts and I still see a pool of oil on top of pistons. What might have gone wrong?
Very informative and clear video. I have a Mazda Protege that is doing this exact thing. Smoke on cold starts and burns oil. I was thinking of perhaps using Marvel Mystery Oil along with regular maintenance. Any ideas as to how good this is?
At first I was ok brother must have been cool with the toothbrush, but then you said sock 😂 now I'm thinking you might have stole his stuff. Going to go steal my brothers toothbrush and sock now 😏
Speedkar. Love your videos. Quick question. My 01 tundras valve stem seals are leaking a little. This truck means a lot to me and I'm a big toyota truck enthusiast. It just burns oil on startup, and theres no change on the dipstick. Do you think i can still keep this vehicle for a very long time? Everything else is great. I want to keep this truck for as long as possible as it has one of toyotas best engines, the 2uzfe. Thanks
i have a 2008 camry, 4 cyl, startred burning oil at 40,000, regular oil changes with conventional oil. switched to synthetic at 48000 miles, no more oil burning. i assume because oil is now getting through the ring....
![Eminem - Like My Shit [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vx_IMvFkrfA/mqdefault.jpg)
you must really love your brother. great video.
+Michael de Guzman More like he likes me for what I've put him through haha
He's looking out for his brother, he needed a new toothbrush so he destroyed his old one.
nice video, please remember to return the toothbrush and sock to your brother.
+Roy Cai ah I'm sure he wouldn't notice unless he actually watched my video
Roy Cai 😂
Lol.good one.
Lol.good one
What about his underwear?😭
From my experience, oil always produces a white smoke whereas excess fuel produces bluish/black smoke. I enjoy all of your videos and think you do a great job!
I'm not sure about the white smoke.... I thought that was water
I knew about all that but never actually saw the oil control ring taken apart. Thanks. Your videos are always worth watching.
+wholeNwon glad you enjoy them :)
Doing the lords work. educating people.
Morgan freeman is looking down on you aprovingly.
+Rockabilly Rambler education is power! People need to know!
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the oil flows the other way around. The oil travels from the crankshaft through the hole in the Connecting Rod Bearing. Then there are passages in the Connecting Rod that go up to the Piston Pin and also to the Oil Jets on both sides of the Connecting Rod. The Oil Jet squirt oil upwards to the underside of Piston which then drips to the holes of the Oil Control Ring. The middle Oil Control Ring stores the oil lubricating the Cylinder Walls and then the top & bottom Oil Control Ring will scrape the oil off the Cylinder Walls.
+lazal3m yep this is what I covered in my oil lubrication video. After the oil ring scrapes the oil off the cylinder wall, it goes back through the Piston head through those holes behind the oil control ring, to drip down into the sump.
thanks!
I wondered why my 2002 Camry kept burning oil. I was told about the possible piston ring situation. Now I see it. Thanks for the enlightenment.
Yeah those 2.4L engines were known for oil burning and head bolt stripping
My G35 has this issue. Can't afford a new engine right now and currently burning 5 qts of oil every two weeks... getting worse. Good informative video👍
That's alot of oil.
On the upside you don't need to change oil
All the videos I ever watched trying to learn how engines worked, no-one ever showed the rings in as much detail as you did in these couple mins just now. They just say they're to stop oil and then slot them in during their rebuilds. I can see much better now how they compress a bit, why they don't damage the cylinder walls, how the oil actually drains (I thought it all just got scraped down the cylinder wall), etc. It's just a nice level of detail for us guys who've read some basics but never had the chance to see these things up close. Like I said in another comment, you're making this stuff so much more accessible. I never pulled cars apart because it all seemed too confusing & beyond my abilities - grainy black and white pictures in Haynes manuals often confused me more than they helped. I'm sure with your videos you're showing kids they needn't fear fixing their own cars mate. Your a fantastic human sharing all this.
Thanks for the easy comprehensive explanation of why I keep dumping gallons a week in my car. And I just thought it might have been a pcv valve ( hoping for an easy fix ) now I gotta start looking for another car
4:41 "you wake up in the morning and brush your teeth" that's hilarious 😂😂
+Abdulaziz Salam yep you gotta do what you gotta do in the morning
Don’t get better than your videos, they are sooooo good!
+Jammer P I'm glad you enjoy them!
Quick story.. Last year in 2021, I bought a 2006 Honda Accord 2.4L/5-speed/Coupe/EX-L with 155k miles. I was not DIYing my oil or anything at the time. Having purchased the car from a mechanic, I didn't check the oil for a couple weeks, and when I did it was BONE dry, just a drop maybe. After putting in enough oil and checking, I realized it was burning a ton of oil. I think it was burning over 1 QUART PER 1k miles, maybe more! I went through a 5 quart bottle quite quickly. I also noticed black sticky residue on the tailpipe tip, but not really much smoking that I could see.
This put me into a bit of a panic and swapped my current research and hobbies over to car DIY; researching, reading, buying repair manuals, etc. I've come across this piston ring information several times on RUclips and Accord forums. At first, and being a newbie, I thought maybe this 'AT-205 reseal', MMO, or some sort of additive. But AT-205 is for rubbers, not metal rings, I kept reading and watching random videos. In the meantime, I changed and added oil as needed. I used SuperTech and Mobile 1, but mostly SuperTech once realizing they are basically the same oil. I changed it as soon as possible, then at 2500, 3000, 4000, and now 3k-5k miles. I've put on 20,000 miles already.
Forward in time about 5 months and the oil consumption has slowed to a crawl! It used about 1.5 quarts over the last 5000 miles! I'm guessing the car had sat around before being sold(some other clues were there also), with old oil, and it GUNKED up the rings. However I think the frequent changes have cleaned them out! I was looking at some condensation coming from the tailpipe last week and also noticed that the nasty GUNK that was built up, it is nearly all GONE!?! huh?! I wanted to clean it off to see what the new build up would be, but it's gone! I've also added a quart of Marvel's Mystery sparsely, mostly in the oil, a bit in the gas. That also seems to have helped; today's oil change was less black and much less was burned off.
It's puzzling to me why someone would sell such a good car. Sure it has some other minor issues, a small water leak, and a bit of the headliner is just starting to separate, but man it's a great personal car, peppy, comfy... and I'm not looking forward to all electronic everything of the new cars.
Thanks for the videos; your teardowns and explanations have been well worth my time!
Edit - a couple things and added clarification without altering content
Wow nice! Lucky that the piston rings didn't scrape off too much of the cylinder wall and were just gummed up, those frequent oil changes just might have saved you engine. how's it holding up?
@@Zaidi_227 Indeed a bit lucky, thank you for the reply! The engine is feeling great, very responsive with the manual transmission; hopefully any damage is minimal. The oil burning currently is about 1 quart every 3000, at 186k miles. I will say that using 5w30 instead of 5w20 seems to also help slow the consumption, as per accord forum posts. I try to change the oil every 3k so I'm only adding a half quart after about 2k, and pulled almost a full 5 quarts out last time! I was ecstatic to say the least!
I really really enjoy this particular car, so before falling in love I had a couple mechanics take a look and evaluate based on long term drivability. They all seem to agree that it's worth holding onto and to start fixing up the suspension, coolant exchange, transmission fluid, etc, etc. The car has felt nearly brand new since I bought it with 150k, though a hiway vibration creeped up after a nasty pothole. I have had done the lower control arms, ball joints, CV axles, used aftermarket rims, and this mostly fixed the vibration, with just a tiny bit left at 70 mph. Anyway I'm rambling and thank you for reading.
@@JMRSplatt hahaha I love reading the details if someone is willing to share, so thanks for sharing. I'd also say the same as your mechanics, IF you don't mind the partial oil burning and topping up the oil every now and then, then you should keep it I mean...you've already almost driven it 40k miles on top of 150k miles of neglect and abuse while still having an oil burning issue which got better because of your care, despite all of that the engine still runs great(according to you)...goes to show the quality of honda engines.
Anyhows, Im happy to hear that your engine is doing well and you sound like you know what you're doing so just keep changing that oil and enjoy your car!
@@Zaidi_227 I appreciate the input indeed! I was a bit on the fence of keeping or buying something new/recently new. I love technology but not a fan of all the excessive electronics in modern cars. Push button start/stop, push button parking brake, touch screen everything.. keep it out of the car, in my opinion. Also new Honda Accords are not offered in 2 door, or with a manual transmission anymore. Not available. :(
Thanks again. :)
I'm glad that you mentioned only some cars burn oil. Not all cars do, especially engines that were designed and engineered with surgical precision. A good engine will not burn oil. But, wear and tear will do their part. Generally, an engine that is burning oil will eventually gum up your sensors and EPA controls.
Yes good point. Thanks
God Bless this Guy! Very well explained
Thank you
Video made with brother's camera? :)
+Vasja Lesjak haha nah this is my camera
I noticed that oil was being drawn thru the PCV valve and valve cover vent tube (lots of oil) in my old 2000 toyo/lexus v6 and oil consumption dropped/stopped after temporarily plugging those tubes..............kn air filter also cleaned....clogged air filter may also increase oil consumption thru those tubes.
Good tip
I noticed heavier oils like lucas won't drain back via the tappet cover baffle drain hole so it gets sucked in and burned. Once you go back to the proper oil, (if it still burns oil,) Wonderdust will stop it burning oil, and bring up the compression, reducing blow by and crankcase pressure/load on pcv valve.
That was honestly the best video on these Toyota engines that is burning excessive amount of oil I have ever seen very informative very good job
Hats off , we need more videos every week, and a heck lot subscribers for you man.
I hope so. New video coming out (hopefully today) stay tuned for more learning.
I was able to replace an 02 Camry's valve stem seals with the head intact. It can be done by removing the cams, rotating the piston about to be serviced into TDC and blowing compressed air into the combustion chamber. Remove and reinstall the valve keeper and seals one at a time on the cylinder that is pressurized.
You're the man. Straight to the point and no time for...
Excellent video very thorough and not a ton of unneeded fluff!! Great work!
+pbarangu thanks
Short and sweet, why make it long?
One of the best channel I have ever watch..... Mob love from Africa Kenya
Hi from Canada!
Great video and explanation!
People don't put cheap oil in your car and change your oil on time! And you should never have this problem!
The same goes to avoid worn piston rings. But what decides wether you'll get worn piston rings or sticking/clogged piston rings?
Thank you. Great explanation and illustration of this problem. Best one I’ve seen yet
Thanks very much!
Thanks! So funny your bothers underwear!! You are an expert! Very didactic in few minutes, people dont bore, direct to the point. I like your videos, keep sharing.
+oscarbolo thanks, short and to the point is my style.
Btw my brother's underwear wasn't in this video, not sure where you saw it?
Great videos educational god bless you keep continuing many thanks brother
Very good explanation with no clowning around ! thnx !
You are welcome!
Ethanol fuels are one of the major culprits in causing sticky rings. Ethanol oxidises to form aldehydes which then polymerise to form a sticky sludge that takes ages to remove.
The sticky rings allow fuel into the sump and which thins the oil and reduces lubrication.
This loss of lubrication results in piston and bore scoring even in low-mileage cars.
🙂
All z way from Tanzania here is ur best car guy follows ur tutorials
Thanks from so far away!
I am from india and a lawyer.... but i have passion for cars and engine...i love ur videos...keep it up...
Dude not only is your explanation on point and easy 5o understand, you are hilarious
Marc Hauser, Actually older vehicles require thicker oil to fill those worn out specs due to aging. My 20 years old Honda was labelled as for 10/30 grade . I have switch to a higher grade
Gotta be careful using someone's sock. You don't know what they used it for. Great material btw. I had to replace my Toyota Yaris engine a month ago. The engine used to consume 3 Liters of oil each week in its last days. Now it all makes sense
XD
+Hamza Raissouli thanks. Haha the sock was clean, you should have seen when I tried it with my brother's underwear..that didn't go too well...
What year and mileage was your Yaris? I know Camry and Corolla was affected but not Yaris..
speedkar99 actually it's a Toyota Echo 2005 (the old Yaris). The old engine had 370k kilometers (I guess that's the reason).
+Hamza Raissouli Yea we have them here in Canada too. They aren't worth much but can be reliable transportation
speedkar99 definitely
I would think the oil control ring would leave a very thin layer of oil on cylinder walls for lubrication of the compression rings? If there were no oil for the compression rings the rings would wear out very quickly. So, with that in mind, by nature of design, even a brand new engine will burn / consume a certain amount of oil. BTW, I have a 1996 Isuzu Rodeo with 3.2 V6 engine that has now begun consuming oil via the valve guide seals after 472,000 miles. The engine still runs fairly well but I decided to completely rebuild the engine as the Rodeo itself is cosmetically in great condition. Thanks for posting this video!
Yes you are correct. It leaves a layer for lubrication
@@speedkar99 That was fast reply! BTW- I enjoy your videos a lot - gonna subscribe
This is the video I have been waiting for. My car has that issue. I just don't know how to fix it since I don't know the set up of an engine.
You need to change rings
To avoid piston ring clogging use an a expensive oil brand such as Mobil 1 0w40 and change every 5k ... plus use the best fuels available .. I have a 2.0 tfsi Audi never had a oil consumption problem
Best car channel by far .
Thank you very much! Glad you enjoy the content.
Wow, another great, detailed video! Thank you. I have an 07 Solara, 4 cyl. Toyota fixed the engine. All good now.
+Joe T you had your 2.4L rebuilt completely understand warranty?
Hi Speedkar99. Only Pistons & rings done under The Toyota modified recall letter.
Thank you, Great video! Toyota did issue a TSB-0094-11 on their 4 cyl engines re: Oil consumption.
+Joe T thanks
And yes there's tsbs and warranty extentions but by the time noticable oil starts burning, it's past that mileage.
I think sometimes they replace valve stem seals while applying air pressure in the cylinder, through the spark plug hole, to push the valves up, without taking the head of.
Yes I've heard of that as well. Risky but it works
The bearing on the bottom of the connecting rod is a big end bearing, the main bearings are what the crank rotates on.
Ok thanks
Just found your channel and subscribed. Great videos explanation. Keep them coming!! Love your full teardowns.
+Another summer thanks for subbing
I would add - air filter and long-term driving from a clogged, engine ventilation, very frequent driving with a heat-cooled engine, (dialing the cold engine to the maximum) ....I'm giving a subscription
Yes good points
The toothbrush part really got me :D
Good straight to the point and well explained video
That's my style. Thanks
Really good video man and funny too very well explained definitely subscribed 👍😁
Thanks for subbing
Thanks for the video. However, I didn't get why not fixing the problem on a high mileage car is better than what you suggested: Change oil (more frequently?) with a high quality oil?
Is it because "The only way to cure oil burning past the rings are to drill holes in the piston heads and change the rings, which requires a full engine tear down."
+Eugene Cartwright higher quality synthetics tend not to break down into sludge as easily as cheap bulk oil, reducing the chances of it clogging Piston holes.
You can change the valve seals only removing camshaft( on over head camshaft engines) valve retainer and springs.
Excessive oil consumption and Toyota go hand in hand. Usually starts around 80K and will increase to well over 3 quarts in between changes. Eventually you burn an exhaust valve.
Straight up man, you sir are a genius. this is like reverse engineering braingasm! Honestly I hope that you are getting well compensated for your work. Have you heard of patreon and the like?
+James Dahmer Thanks for the feedback. I have heard but have not considered patreons
With these newer engines, can you pressurize the cylinder by the S plug hole, then remove each valve to replace the valve stem oil seals? I think this procedure was used for Older engines. BTW, great video! Thank you.
I have heard of it, but it's risky if you loose pressure the valve could drop in
I really like your videos. I learn a lot from them. But this video says it's necessary to remove the cylinder head to replace valve stem seals. I didn't have to remove the head when I replaced the valve stem seals on my 94 Tercel.
Some of them you can but risk dropping a vlve if not careful
Awesome lesson. Well explained and clear. Good job.
Thanks
Great video, I just learned what's wrong with my car I have bad valve stem seals
Well all the best on that job
Important tools to have when explaining how a car’s components work:
1. Brother’s sock.
2. Brother’s underwear.
3. Brother’s toothbrush.
Lmao!
+John L +1 on Brother's t-shirt
speedkar99 lmao!
Another awesome video - loved it. Not all cars are impossible to change valve seals due to cylinder head removal. Did my Suburban after 240k and it only requires removal of the valve covers not the head. Yes it is a major job - took two Saturdays for me - did one side one weekend and the other the next weekend. It single handily solved my oil consumption issue. Very satisfying job. Would you recommend doing the Seafoam in the cylinder process to clean out my oil rings? Thanks Speedkar99 keep up the good work! Give your brother our best....
I'm glad you enjoy my videos, how did you prevent the valves from falling into the engine?
speedkar99 - did the old compressor air in the cylinder at ~60 psi. Apparently when the cylinder is at top position the valves will not fall through but I did not want to test that theory! A balloon attached to the hose worked great to determine a given cylinders top position. Thanks again
1. Use high quality synthetic motor oil.
2. Use high quality oil filter.
3. Change oil & filter often.
4. DON'T BE STINGY AND/OR LAZY AND/OR NEGLIGENT.
Great video explained in laymen's terms that a dummy like me can understand. Thanks. I've subscribed 👍
+james hibbert thanks, that's my style, short quick and to the point.
Another well done informative and educational video.
+Tripp M thanks I'm glad you appreciate my work
I like how you use your brothers stuff. 😂 🤣 🤣
Me too
What great information by an obviously highly knowledge source !! Thanks so much .
Thanks
@Speedkar 99 My old toyo/lexus V6 has a chronic misfire on PO302. What do you suggest?
Many thanks for the informative videos.
I love these videos man keep up the great work
+Bigblack Coffee awesome
Super helpful! I’ve been researching this for weeks!
Very nicely explained
Glad you liked it
Great video , at first my 2009 Camry started burring oil , I replaced the PCV valve but that did not fix the issue then my mechanic said that He has to replace the rings and that's a big job and will cost about 1400 $. Not sure if its worth it or should I just buy a refurbished engine . All cars that pass the 100 K miles have this oil burning problem.
Yeah unfortunately the 2az engine was known for this. A rebuilt engine is your best bet. A. Used one might have the same issue.
nice video
keep up the good work
+Secur 60 awesome
Great Videos! Subscribed! by the way, how many brushes & socks does your brother own? :P
+How What & Why haha when I steal them, he finds them missing and gets another. Rinse and repeat.
I hope is not your brother car engine bro 😂,nice video bro 👍👍
It's not. 🤫
You real explain things properly.
Proper demonstrations.
Straight to the point.
I am learning a lot from your videos..( and soon I am expecting to open my full equipped garage in my region where I live-Dar es salaam Tanzania)
-Keep posting your educative videos.
Thanks I'm glad you appreciate my style and all the best time your business
@@speedkar99 karibu sana (you're welcome sir)
I liked this blue toothbrush - pointer :)
good lesson and funny video !
Thanks
You should change your microphone because I cannot hear your voice clear
I appreciate you and thanks for sharing knowledge
Thanks for that feedback
And to add in to the flaws, they now install low tension piston rings to get a lower frictio. Result, oil passes more easily.
Do I see half a CAM at 3:48?
+Ghazi Sarhan yes you do! Follow my engine lubrication video to see when I cut it in half.
Half a cam?
There's a chunk of the engine block gone at 3:45.
hahahha right
Thank you for explaining the whole thing...now am better informed.
You're the BEST speedkar! Thank you!!!
Please advise me if the piston rings can be done without removing the engine, I was led to believe that piston rings can be done by lifting the head and removing the sump. I have audi a3 BSE, 1.6 engine . Because My engine is burning oil mileage is 103000 miles.
Yes it can be done, remove head and oil pan , disconnect connecting rod bearings and pull them out the top
speedkar99 thanks for that too!
Cool video ... But Question .... Did you still using your brother's Toothbrush 🪥or you give it back to him lol
I would assume adding a bottle of 205 ReSeal every 3 oil changes could combat the valve stem seal problem.
It could also cause clogged oil passages so I don't go too hard on conditioners
Nice video thanks
Welcome
U are an expert, and I mean that
. Thanks.
My 1999 Honda crv does the plume of smoke thing, not all the time thou, only once in a while, good to know why.
+Tony32 only on cold starts eh? How many miles?
Miles? j/k (I'm Canadian) 435k km, yes only on cold starts.
Are you using the correct oil viscosity? Conventional or "synthetic"?
5w30 Synthetic (mobil 1)
Unless your owner's manual specifically requires it, consider switching to conventional oil and changing it every 4-5K miles. Its laminar flow characteristics (not precisely the correct term) are different than most "synthetics" and you may see much less of that sort of oil burning, which isn't good for your catalytic converter.
Very nice
My car burns oil but the compression is great. The compression rings are still fine but the oil control rings (which are really springs as shown here) must be gunked up. Should I dump some auto rx in there or replace the oil control rings? Hmmm...
The right way is a ring job and a good cleanup
Outstanding videos.
Great video....thanks
Question...I replaced the valve seals with oem parts and I still see a pool of oil on top of pistons. What might have gone wrong?
Spark plug tube seals
Thank you for your information
You are welcome
Very informative and clear video. I have a Mazda Protege that is doing this exact thing. Smoke on cold starts and burns oil. I was thinking of perhaps using Marvel Mystery Oil along with regular maintenance. Any ideas as to how good this is?
Once it's burning there's not much you can do
Love your videos. Thank you
+Michael Luciano glad you like them
Thank for teach me. Love it
+Chan Nat glad you learned something!
Can you make a video about carbon building in gdi engines and how to remove it? Thanks
Okay. I want a gdi turbo car to dissect so badly
Perfect explanation. Thank you sir.
You are welcome
At first I was ok brother must have been cool with the toothbrush, but then you said sock 😂 now I'm thinking you might have stole his stuff. Going to go steal my brothers toothbrush and sock now 😏
Great video sir!
Thank you for sharing your knowlege with the rest of us.
Great video bro I found my car issue..
Awesome
Thank you for this video.
Your welcome
Speedkar. Love your videos. Quick question. My 01 tundras valve stem seals are leaking a little. This truck means a lot to me and I'm a big toyota truck enthusiast. It just burns oil on startup, and theres no change on the dipstick. Do you think i can still keep this vehicle for a very long time? Everything else is great. I want to keep this truck for as long as possible as it has one of toyotas best engines, the 2uzfe. Thanks
You can though consider the other components that can get affected, such as fouling the catalytic converter and spark plugs
@@speedkar99 ok. Fair enough. Plugs are easy as heck on this engine and cheap ngks, converter whatevs
i have a 2008 camry, 4 cyl, startred burning oil at 40,000, regular oil changes with conventional oil. switched to synthetic at 48000 miles, no more oil burning. i assume because oil is now getting through the ring....
It'll burn it soon, that 2.4L engine was known for it!
@@speedkar99 yea, thats why i was watching the video
your detailed descriptions are excellent, I just have to slow it down to 75% speed to catch everything.