This is great. I bought a vintage silver WW2 ID bracelet that's engraved because of this video. Looking forward to removing the engraving and re-engraving it for my veteran friend as a gift
Dear Dave, I did it! Thank you so, so much. Your videos, advice and encouragement meant that I achieved something I thought impossible. The ring I was too scared to take a file to is now like new and I feel so empowered! I know it's only a small step but it's made me realise that all the other steps are too. What you do is truly generous, completely selfless and totally inspirational. Bless you and a thousand thanks, Pen ☺
Bless You. X Such a heart warming comment. This is my reward for all the time I put into these videos. So thank you for taking the time to post such a lovely comment. I am so pleased that I have encouraged you to have a go. I know you where nervous about it, but I knew you had the skills to do it. I'd love to see some finished pictures, do email me a couple. Dave.
Celtic Dreams David, I'm welling up. That's so kind of you, on top of all you do you are an absolute star, top bloke, lovely, lovely man. Thanks so very much, will be delighted to send pics. Blessings always xx
While searching "how to remove scratches from jewellery" (I accidentally put an expensive silver brooch in the washing machine!), I came across your channel. I won't pretend I understand half of the things you are talking about, but your videos are really interesting and the video about spotting fakes on ebay is a godsend. Thanks, Dave!
Thank you for your great video! I have to say your video was also very peaceful and relaxing to watch with the birds in the background and your neat accent :)
Hi Dave, Thanks so much for your video. I adapted your advise as follows: A dinner guest nicked several tines on my sterling silver fork with a sceraded steak knife. I was able to repair this using a Revlon ladies nail file. The fork is now perfect, good as new!!
Dave thanks for that video pal. Question; I’ve got a few hand made silver rings which I’ve filed and sanded to a mirror finish. To the eye they look great but on close up photos they are FULL of tiny scratches. I always use a polishing wheel an menzerna blue (medium) and yellow SF. Can you suggest a way to improve the results?
Essential that you clean between the polishes. HOT soapy water, to melt and remove the grease. You must remove all traces of the first polish, before moving on. for the final polish use a very soft mop, and avoid using an old soiled one. Go slower and lighter on the final pass to avoid "whipping" the surface with loose fibres. remember to keep changing direction, polish one way then go at right angles to it. don't keep the mop in one place. Biggest Tip - difficult to explain this, but move the mop back and forth along the direction of the mandrel. Don't move the mop side to side in the direction its rotating, you're just ploughing a trench, go across it. (If this makes sense). Image a tiny particle of abrasive grit on the mop. You never want it to cut the same place twice. so as the mop rotates right to left, move it in and out. Then go at 90 degrees to the original direction. I Hope this makes sense. I have a few more polishing videos, showing how I get a mirror finish. check out the links.... Dave ruclips.net/video/RyTZDJ-q0os/видео.html ruclips.net/video/Iv6NNClZdNU/видео.html
Fantastic Dave. First video of yours I've seen and it is brilliant! Easy explanation and clear process to follow. Makes me want to polish out scratches on my silver. AND! Even more importantly look for bargains. Big thank you. Silvie
Thank you for the video. Been trying to remove engraving from my iPad but the result wasn't too great. Now I know that I need to dip it in ultrasonic bath as well. Thanks!
Glad you found the video useful, but Im not sure what the finish is on an iPad. Are they somehow coated or painted - I'm not sure. May be simpler to just get a case. Thanks, Dave
Hi Dave, Great advice. I have used your advice on flat surfaces a couple of times, I have just bought a silver jug for my own collection for a good price it have been engraved (that's why it was a good price) my question is how do I take the engraving out on the side of a jug without flat spotting the jug. I will be grateful of any help please.
I've done this many times. A curved surface is pretty much the same approach, Use your buff sticks but keep them moving in large arcs around the side of the jug. Same as with a ring or bangle, just keep the stick moving as you sand. with the jug take note to sand from the top lip to the bottom, and you're probably going to be sanding half of the jug. As in the video reduce the whole area. Then stick it on the bench polisher. use a firm mop, like a stitched cotton, as this will keep its square flat profile. work the jug parallel to the mop and again, keep it moving lip to base and all the way around. As with the note in my video, always start by checking how deep the engraving is. Especially if its bene done by hand (with a graver) then you can get deep spots at the corners where the graver was pushed in to start a line. If it looks too deep to sand away. You may want to try filling the engraving with solder. clean it thoroughly with a wire brush, apply flux and melt a few bits of easy (or extra easy) solder over the engraving with a soft wide flame. Tip - use a ring of tippex correction fluid to stop the solder running everywhere!. Then sand and polish, as before. Good luck. if you need any help, send me some email pics. Dave mail@celticdreams.co.uk
Great demo. I've just been looking at vintage solid sterling silver belt buckles and the engraved monogram ones can be had for much cheaper than the non-engraved ones. Most buckles I'm looking at are 44 mm x 32 mm (1.75" x 1.25") and weigh between 18 and 20 grams depending on the design of the back of the buckle. In your experience, can you tell us about how many grams of metal end up being removed for a piece like this with shallow etching similar to your video?
Difficult to say precisely, but you don't loose much. On big ID bracelets I may lose a couple of grams. And on Gold signet rings I have restored, its almost immeasurable. As you say, monogrammed or engraved items are often cheaper. Glad you liked the video, thanks for watching. Dave.
Excellent video thanks so much! Can you suggest a way to do the reverse, which is to restore the engraving to like it was on the first day it was done? I mean how do you clean the engraving where it has gone dull/ dark? So for example with RAY, how would you clean those lines in the lettering to be shiny again and not dark? Thanks
I got an Art Deco silver cigarette case that had been kept in it box with it's linin protective sleeve. It is in very good shape. It had not been monogramed so I took it and got it engraved. The engraver engraved this excellent piece Upside down. I see your way works well. My concern is if I do this to it I might miss up the engraved pattern on it. Is there something I can use to mask it off so when I file it down it wont mess up the factory pattern?
Its best to practice first. I've been doing this for over 20 years. If you've never done this before then it's a little risky to just jump straight in with a valuable antique. Perhaps better to take it to a jeweller such as myself. Dave
Personally I charge £20 to remove initials and repolish an item, Basically its just the time require to do it. Im sure any competent jeweller in the USA should be able to do this for you. Dave.
@@CelticDreamsCoUk I got it DONE! Thanx. I will say though Americans do not take as much pride in this as you do. It cost $25.00 to get it removed and 10 to have it re-engraved. The guy is a silversmith and goldsmith but he had no idea the Lion meant it was sterling, the anchor meaning it was made in Birmingham and the E meant it was done in 1929. I had to show him online. He first said it was not sterling because it was not stamped 925. You would have done a much better job and it would have been worth the wait.
Hi Dave, love the video. I know I'm late to the party so to speak but what process would you recommend with something like a sterling silver napkin ring. I have a few that are engraved and realise it's quite a finnicky item to refurbish. Any tips you could drop my way? All the best
same basic principle, you need to sand away the engraving then re polish it. but with a napkin ring ( or anything cylindrical) you need to sand top to bottom and at least half way round, blending very gradually into the non sanded part. When polished it should be seamless. You don't want a flat spot on one side. check out the bangle restoration video see link for a few tips. Dave. ruclips.net/video/RyTZDJ-q0os/видео.html
Great video - so often the details are glossed over however you pretty much ticked all the boxes. Question - have a Black Matte Zippo lighter which I purchased from eBay and seller neglected to advise/take picture of the engraving. Can the engraving be removed and restore the Zippo to like original condition?
I believe Zippos are made of brass, so it would need repainting afterwards. But yes, same principle. sand down the entire panel and then repolish. But less need to re polish if you are painting it. likewise if you're painting it, then you could simply try some car body filler, if that's easier. Dave.
How would you remove deep engravings(two or more fingernails thick) from a hand engraver, especially in chrome? I have needed to remove home engravings from antique guitar amps and test equipment such as oscilloscopes. For example I have a vintage microphone that has a chrome ring engraved and I can’t grind half the ring away to polish it.
I always use the same techniques, sand, finish, polish. The issue with something chrome is that this will obviously remove the plating. So the item would then need to be re chromed, not sure how feasible that would be. Hope this helps, Dave.
@@CelticDreamsCoUk I'm not talking about professional engravings, but that garage diy several millimeters, or 1/8 of an inch deep engravings in sloppy hand writing. To remove enough material from that threaded ring on my mike, I'd need a lathe, and it would probably be too weakened to avoid splitting it when retightening it as I'd have to thin the material by about half, also it would completely remove the chrome plating. I've used grind wheels to take carved etch sections of printed on face plates down that deep, but I can't do the entire faceplate without losing the printed scales. I've dealt with decommissioned analogue lab equipment, and 50's pot metal power tools, and guitar amps. It's that garage diy stuff I see constantly on vintage oscilloscopes, tools, etc. I know how to fill it in on wood cabinets, but not metal. I was thinking silver solder may be key. Sometimes removing an engraving with grinding/sanding just isn't a viable option, but is there a way to minimize it's visibility?
The Diamond files came from Eternaltools.com here in the UK who specialise in watchmaking and jewellery equipment. The main thing is to get FINE ones. Cheap, foreign diamond files are often very coarse and would make things worse. The all important buff sticks, you make yourself, see below. Hope this helps. Dave ruclips.net/video/f4GanMC6JUs/видео.html
Yes the method is the same for any shape. Follow the curve of the pen and keep it all equal to avoid any flat spots. Obviously a more tricky challenge with a pen, especially for s first attempt, but quite possible. Dave
Hello Dave, I’ve found some sterling silver champagne cups and I am wondering if it’s worth it to buy them and have the engraving removed. The engraving is along the base of the cup and consists of four words. “25 YEARS OF LOVE”. Or should I just place a sterling silver plate over it? It’s Tiffany so I don’t want to make it worth nothing...
Hmmm. I haven't really done a great deal with pewter. But its much softer than silver. You probably don't need the file, just the buffing sticks. use a finer grit of sandpaper, and go lightly with the polishing to avoid creating depressions. You are never going to get a mirror shine like silver. but it should be quite easy to remove any marks of engraving. Hope this helps. Dave
@@CelticDreamsCoUk You should give it a try and let us know. It's not like there aren't any pewter mugs you can try it with. Hell, I almost trip on over them here at yard sales here in America. Thank you Sir.
If its not silver, then do check what exactly it is. If its chrome or silver plated, then any polishing is going to remove the plating. So do ensure you know what you are working with. Dave
I am not sure if I am being a blonde but I am unable to see the P275 super fine in yellow. I am only looking for a small amount of them both. Also I have some identity bracelets that have names on them . What would I need to rub them out as I couldn’t quite get what you was using with out going backwards and forwards trying to write it all down lol. Thank you
They don't do "small amounts" they come in large blocks as you see... www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Menzerna-P164-Blue-Polishing-------Compound,-Universal-prcode-999-MZ02&query=menzerna&channel=uk www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Menzerna-P275-Yellow-Compound,-Pre-Polish-Medium-Cut-Pre-Polish-prcode-999-MZ03&query=menzerna&channel=uk Both of these can be used on your ID bracelets, but start by sanding. Check out my video dong just this....Dave ruclips.net/video/Iv6NNClZdNU/видео.html
excellent videos, really like the info, could you comment on the best way to re polish Sprenger Balkenhol Made of German Silver spurs, they are really scratch have no shine, want a mirror look, thanks,
"German Silver" is not actually silver. it's an alloy of nickel. Unless of course you simply mean silver, that is made in Germany. Either way they should polish up the same. As shown here, start by removing the scratches, using rough sandpaper 200 grit, or files. Smooth the surface with finer sandpaper 600 grit until smooth and even. then polish, with an abrasive compound like the Menzerna Blue intensive Polish P164 with a firm Unhitched mop. then finish with a loose cotton mop and Menzerna yellow P175 super finish. See also a video I made for Eternal tools on the different Dialux polishes, which may also be useful. Dave ruclips.net/video/JPhqBsQNN6A/видео.html
Same principle. use a small buff stick, polish, as before. The thing to note is to avoid wearing the inside of the ring too thin, or creating an uneven narrow part. so the whole inside of the ring should be polished to keep it equal. The problem here, is that you may remove the hallmark, so it may need reapplying by the assay office. That said, most ring engravers work by scratching letters into the ring, so usually they're quite superficial and so should polish out very easily with a buff stick and then some Tripoli.
Nail "file" perhaps not, but certainly emery boards and buffing sticks can be used if you have nothing else. The real secret to my finish though is the Menzerna polish. So you do need something to polish it with, such as a Dremel or similar. Dave
Same process, You just keep following the curve as you sand. I've found you usually need to go at least half the way around to beld it all in. and top to bottom as well. You mustn't stop suddenly or just sand a small area as you will have a flat spot. keep going round and sanding until it's all even. All the same principle, just a little more work. hope this helps. Dave.
Here's a quick question- if the engraving was deeply etched into the silver and you didn't have enough material for you to sand it or file awayCould you flood the engraving with Silver solder then smooth off and polish
ooh a superb question !Short answer yes. I have used this technique many times. With hand engraving you sometimes get deep spots at the corners where the graver was inserted. so when polished out you will have tiny deep spots. I use easy tube solder. Clean the area including the "spot" thoroughly. Wire brush, pickle and ultrasonic. Apply the tube silver paste generously to the spot. I use a small hot flame and just direct it at the solder paste. 'just enough' to melt it into the scratch. Not like traditional soldering where i want it flood. I want to try and keep it proud, so i can sand it down later. hence the more precise heating. The solder paste also has flux and cleaners built in which help. You can see me doing this on the gold ring restoration below. Dave. ruclips.net/video/5QKwbEQkocM/видео.html
I see your problem, as you cant file right to the edges. Same principle applies though sand the entire area flat, and re polish. Now in your case the sanding is going to be fiddly if it is set into another design, so the trick is to use small tools to just sand polish that area. take a look at the EVE FLEX products which will do the job. See links. Dave ruclips.net/video/v71tE-O0Wj8/видео.html ruclips.net/video/GERN2oHz3aM/видео.html ruclips.net/video/UZlteJxiPl0/видео.html
Thank you!! I have the EXACT dilemma with a recovered Zippo, which led me to seek out a video just like this. My many, many thanks, Dave. I know just how many thankless hours go into these videos before the world ever sees them. It's beyond generous to teach mass amounts of folks skills you posses at no cost, and unfathomably so when the result could bear your direct competition! But I suppose that falls right in line with Richard Branson's leadership and development style (perhaps one of, if not the top, entrepreneurs I respect the most) and it seems to be working rather well for him. Your generosity humbles me, and I hope my results ate worthy to honor it. Cheers!
No too sure what you mean, but if the surface is textured and the engraving is cut into the texture, then yes this creates a problem. Youd have to polish flat the whole scale and then somehow re texture it. Or simply replace the scales if thats an option. Dave.
Yes indeed. If there is a really deep spot then solder could be used to fill in the hole. It is vital that the piece is really cleaned though to remove any dirt from within the scratch. Solder paste is good for this. In a similar method, a laser welder or pulse welder can be used to fill in deep engraving, holes and marks.
Hi Dave! Thank you for the video. I have a watch box that I purchased on Ebay that has a brass laser engraving (3 intials) on a thin brass plate inset into the top of the box. Any suggestions on how to remove and prepare for my initials. Thanks so much!
Sand, smooth, polish. I've got a few videos showing how I restore things. A good one is the bangle video, where I show engraving being removed, See Link. Dave Bangle restoration ruclips.net/video/RyTZDJ-q0os/видео.html and how to polish silver ruclips.net/video/Iv6NNClZdNU/видео.html
Is is possible to remove engraving from a communion style cup? I am thinking of buying one (presumably brass) if I can find a way to fill/remove some of the engraving. Thanks!
If the silver is thick enough then as in my video here, simply sand it down and refinish. If you feel its too deep or the metal is thin, then you might be able to clean it thoroughly and fill the engraving with (a little) solder, then refinish. Jewellers often use lasers or pulse welders in the same manner, to fill engraving before refinishing. Hope this helps. feel free to email me is you need any more specific advice with it. Mail@celticdreams.co.uk Dave
Thanks so much Dave, great help as ever. Any advice for doing quite deep dings/dents in a Georg Jensen 'Curve' ring? I'm scared to have a go as it's a domed kind of design. Thanks again for the great advice, following your helpful videos I'm hoping to get Tronex pliers for Christmas!
As mentioned in the video, you need to look at how thick the metal is. As long as you can file the engraving away, its just a case of polishing it after that. Feel free to send me a photo. Dave. mail@celticdreams.co.uk
Hey Dave, I’m using your “finishing” process, but after getting a super mirror finish, I pop it into the ultrasonic and it comes out ALWAYS with a white cloud in the middle of the piece. Solution is clean in ultrasonic. I now have to start all over and it’s a never ending MERRY GO ROUND. What am I doing wrong? I heard maybe flat pieces shouldn’t lay flat in the ultrasonic basket? Helppppp! Also..Menzerna has changed ALL their packaging and numbers. Which EXACTLY do you use and where can I get it?
The first thing to consider is the white cloud, it may be fire strain caused by soldering or over heating. If it is, then you'll struggle to remove it. You may need to go down a bit deeper. If its polish, then simple hot soapy water is all you need. the polish is simply grease. Its just tallow with abrasive particles in it. so just washing up liquid (dish soap) and hot water is all you need. As for the polish, yes they have changed their packaging. I use P164 Blue cut 4 intensive polish, and P175 Yellow cut 2, super finish. I do also have a grey bar (from another brand) which is sometimes use if i need some serious cutting power They actually do ten different polishes, all in varying "cuts". 1 being the finest and 8 being the coarsest. The point is you can go finer, with the M5 white which is cut 1, or you can go coarser, with things like the333 green cut 5, 456G grey cut 7, and the 136A Ochre which cut 8. As for where you can get them, I don't know what country you are in. Hope this helps. Dave
if you send me an email I can reply with PDF chart of all the Menzerna jewellery polishes. I don't where where I found it, (Menzerna website somewhere) but it shows all the new colours. Dave mail@celticdreams.co.uk
I cant find Menzerna at any of the usual USA suppliers like Rio Grande , Gesswein etc. So you may have to order it from the UK and pay a little more postage. Dave www.cooksongold.com/category_select.jsp?channel=uk&query=menzerna
Celtic Dreams Dave, I FOUND it. Menzerna USA 1-877-453-7227 has both P164 and P175. You have to call them but they’ll ship it right out. The shipping from UK was $50 so I saved on this. Info is for anyone else that asks you or anyone that reads this. Your work is spot-on with regard to finishing so I want to mimic your process. Thanks so much!!!!
Yes. Gold responds in the same way with the same polishes. The only real difference is that high carat gold 14k 18k etc is a lot softer than sterling silver, so will usually need less sanding. So just go a little lighter with gold. Hope this helps. Dave
It's just a little cheap one. JPL 7000. But be aware that they brand them for other companies, so you can see the same cleaner with different names, and hugely different prices. But search for a JPL 7000 and you should pick one up fro about £30 GBP. It doesn't have any heating capabilities, but I just use hot water in it with a drop of dish soap (fairy, dawn). and it removes all the greasy polish in a few seconds. I didn't believe they worked until i got one. but its a little gem. Hope this helps. Dave
So a tungsten ring, with gold plating over it, and engraving on the inside. Well in the first instance, if you want to remove the engraving then you'll need to sand and polish it away, that's the bottom line there. Tungsten will take a litl emore doing, but emery will do it. Afterwards the piece would be re gold plated. Most repair jewellers will be able to re gold plate an item for a few pounds. Alternatively you can buy a cheap "pen plater" and retouch it up later. Hope this helps. Dave
if the engraved deep enough, u will make a bad shape of item after polish, BUT can we just pour melting silver on the engraved position, just wondering?
Yes, you can sometimes add solder to fill in tiny holes. But this isnt something that I do myself. I don't need to. As mentioned in the video, to avoid a "bad shape" it is important that you sand the whole area equally to avoid causing depressions. If there is one tiny area that need sanding, the whole surface needs to be taken down equally. Hope this helps. Dave
Cooksons www.cooksongold.com/category_select.jsp?channel=uk&query=menzerna you want the P164 blue (pre polish) and the P275 Yellow (super finish). Dave
You just need a mop that's firm and allows you to put a little pressure on for the first stage. So a small stitched mop, or felt wheel. Failing that you can use a regular soft cotton mop, but it will take a little longer as you cant apply an pressure with it. Hope this helps. Dave
The process is the same. But a watch back may be steel. in which case it may require a more aggressive polish designed for stainless steel. The Menzerna will do it, but it will just take a little longer than it would with silver or gold. Dave
Depends what the keying is made of. If its one solid metal then you can polish it just like I have done here. But if it has been chrome or gold plated over the top, then you have a problem. As any work would obviously remove the plating. That's why I love to work with silver. However bad it is, silver can always be repaired and polished. With plated costume jewellery, its usually not possible. hope this helps answer your question. Dave
Traditionally Tripoli on firm cotton mop and then Rouge on a soft cotton mop. But I now use German polish Called "Menzerna".P164 Blue to begin, and P175 Yellow to finish. Dave
certainly, you can polish as shown. The tumbler just helps to get into the the tighter areas inside the piece. But small brushes and rubber polishing tips will do the same job. another trick is to tie a piece of thick string to a nail in your bench, pull it tight and rub rough polish along it. This can then be used to polish the insides of small items, buyt threading it through, pulling tight and rubbing the piece along the string. Dave
Can’t u just fill it in with silver solder for jewelry making and the policy the high spots??? That’s if you have the ability or can find a jeweler to do so?? You did a fantastic job on this though
In theory Yes, if the engraving is too deep to remove it may be an option to fill the engraving with solder (after cleaning the piece very thoroughly). But then you still need to sand and polish it to remove excess solder and get the finish back, so not usually any advantage. It's just an extra process to go through. Dave.
Depends what the ipod is made of. Its likely to be plated or anodised. So polishing it would remove this finish. it would either need replating, or totally polishing. Simpler to just buy a case for it. or replace the back. Dave.
@@CelticDreamsCoUk thanks for replying Dave! it's the same colour underneath when you scratch it. I'm very passionate about the originality of the backplate, as it has the original serial number engraved on there :) the backs of these things are made completely from polished stainless steel. Mine in particular is a 6th generation.
strange coincidence. But as mentioned, initials and engraving really devalue pieces as they have limited resale potential. A blank piece is much more saleable. Thanks for watching. Dave
I do this the same way, but I also add one extra step: I burnish it first. Not sure if it's that critical, but I tend to believe that it helps me in removing less material than if I didn't burnish.
Depends at what point. I wouldn't burnish the engraving at the start as you might "bury" some of the lines and then open them up later with polishing. But burnishing may be good before the final polish (after the sanding). it may help to flatten surfaces. Not a process i usually do much. I only tend to burnish when i want to highlight details or texture. Dave.
Depends on what the medal is made of (is it plated?) and where the engraving is. But it's always the same technique. sand it away and re polish the area. if plated then it would need re plating afterwards. Dave.
Celtic dreams thanks for your response the afgun service medal ir real its not platid so just sand? Is ther a sertin sand paper i must use thanks dave kind regards tim
Ha, took me a while to spot that. Greetings Brother, there are lot of us in the world. To make matters worse, My sister even married a guy called wilson, whos son is David and grandson is David. Three David Wilsons in the car going to the wedding. With such a name tracing the family tree is nightmare. ; ) Thanks for watching. Dave
Obviously the metal is a little thinner as its been sanded. Hence why I said that the beginning you need to ensure there is enough material to do this. It cant be done on thin delicate items. Dave
Indeed. Stamped By Tiffany, but not an assay office. I couldn't initially see with the naked eye, the camera is much magnified. Even so they are crisp and clear, so about as much proof as i can get that its a genuine item. Thanks for watching. Dave.
"sand" paper is generally used for wood. What you need is Emery paper, which is tougher. Wrap it around wooden sticks to make Buff sticks. Takes time, but it will get you there. See vid, Dave ruclips.net/video/f4GanMC6JUs/видео.html
A BUFF Stick. A piece of wood wrapped in emery paper, used for sanding and buffing. Hence Buff-Stick. you can see me making one below.. Dave ruclips.net/video/f4GanMC6JUs/видео.html
I just scored a nice bracelet with Karen on it. No one wanted it lol. It’s silver and 14k Well $20 and a little bit of work to remove the engraving my wife will have a nice bracelet.
Yes I am a jeweller and so have jewellery equipment. But this can still be achieved with a home made sanding stick and a Dremel. The tools just make things faster. Dave
+orgoneheart As others have noticed. Quite correct. I suspect it was retailed at the New York store in the USA and as such was not given the UK hallmarks, or import marks. Probably brought back by someone as a gift. In the UK you're correct. it would need to be assayed. Thanks for posting. Dave.
This is great. I bought a vintage silver WW2 ID bracelet that's engraved because of this video. Looking forward to removing the engraving and re-engraving it for my veteran friend as a gift
Good luck, don't forget to check out my bracelet video too for a few tips...Dave
ruclips.net/video/Iv6NNClZdNU/видео.html
Dear Dave,
I did it! Thank you so, so much. Your videos, advice and encouragement meant that I achieved something I thought impossible. The ring I was too scared to take a file to is now like new and I feel so empowered! I know it's only a small step but it's made me realise that all the other steps are too. What you do is truly generous, completely selfless and totally inspirational. Bless you and a thousand thanks,
Pen ☺
Bless You. X Such a heart warming comment. This is my reward for all the time I put into these videos. So thank you for taking the time to post such a lovely comment. I am so pleased that I have encouraged you to have a go. I know you where nervous about it, but I knew you had the skills to do it. I'd love to see some finished pictures, do email me a couple. Dave.
Celtic Dreams David, I'm welling up. That's so kind of you, on top of all you do you are an absolute star, top bloke, lovely, lovely man. Thanks so very much, will be delighted to send pics. Blessings always xx
While searching "how to remove scratches from jewellery" (I accidentally put an expensive silver brooch in the washing machine!), I came across your channel. I won't pretend I understand half of the things you are talking about, but your videos are really interesting and the video about spotting fakes on ebay is a godsend. Thanks, Dave!
If your brooch just needs a re polish, any local jeweller should be able to do that for a few pounds. Dave.
Thank you!
Thank you for your great video! I have to say your video was also very peaceful and relaxing to watch with the birds in the background and your neat accent :)
ruclips.net/video/bf0DPhzy7S4/видео.html
Dave.
Hi Dave,
Thanks so much for your video. I adapted your advise as follows: A dinner guest nicked several tines on my sterling silver fork with a sceraded steak knife. I was able to repair this using a Revlon ladies nail file. The fork is now perfect, good as new!!
Thanks for watching, glad you picked up some tips. Dave
Dave- Love your great ability to educate me here. Thanks!
Very welcome. Dave
Fantastic watching a real craftsman at work...
Thank you. Very kind. Dave
Dave thanks for that video pal. Question; I’ve got a few hand made silver rings which I’ve filed and sanded to a mirror finish. To the eye they look great but on close up photos they are FULL of tiny scratches. I always use a polishing wheel an menzerna blue (medium) and yellow SF. Can you suggest a way to improve the results?
Essential that you clean between the polishes. HOT soapy water, to melt and remove the grease. You must remove all traces of the first polish, before moving on. for the final polish use a very soft mop, and avoid using an old soiled one. Go slower and lighter on the final pass to avoid "whipping" the surface with loose fibres. remember to keep changing direction, polish one way then go at right angles to it. don't keep the mop in one place. Biggest Tip - difficult to explain this, but move the mop back and forth along the direction of the mandrel. Don't move the mop side to side in the direction its rotating, you're just ploughing a trench, go across it. (If this makes sense). Image a tiny particle of abrasive grit on the mop. You never want it to cut the same place twice. so as the mop rotates right to left, move it in and out. Then go at 90 degrees to the original direction. I Hope this makes sense. I have a few more polishing videos, showing how I get a mirror finish. check out the links.... Dave
ruclips.net/video/RyTZDJ-q0os/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/Iv6NNClZdNU/видео.html
@@CelticDreamsCoUk thanks pal.
Fantastic Dave. First video of yours I've seen and it is brilliant! Easy explanation and clear process to follow. Makes me want to polish out scratches on my silver. AND! Even more importantly look for bargains. Big thank you. Silvie
Absolutely, check those eBay listings, antique shops and rummage sales. good hunting!. Dave
Thank you for the video. Been trying to remove engraving from my iPad but the result wasn't too great. Now I know that I need to dip it in ultrasonic bath as well.
Thanks!
Glad you found the video useful, but Im not sure what the finish is on an iPad. Are they somehow coated or painted - I'm not sure. May be simpler to just get a case. Thanks, Dave
Hi Dave, Great advice. I have used your advice on flat surfaces a couple of times, I have just bought a silver jug for my own collection for a good price it have been engraved (that's why it was a good price) my question is how do I take the engraving out on the side of a jug without flat spotting the jug. I will be grateful of any help please.
I've done this many times. A curved surface is pretty much the same approach, Use your buff sticks but keep them moving in large arcs around the side of the jug. Same as with a ring or bangle, just keep the stick moving as you sand. with the jug take note to sand from the top lip to the bottom, and you're probably going to be sanding half of the jug. As in the video reduce the whole area. Then stick it on the bench polisher. use a firm mop, like a stitched cotton, as this will keep its square flat profile. work the jug parallel to the mop and again, keep it moving lip to base and all the way around.
As with the note in my video, always start by checking how deep the engraving is. Especially if its bene done by hand (with a graver) then you can get deep spots at the corners where the graver was pushed in to start a line. If it looks too deep to sand away. You may want to try filling the engraving with solder. clean it thoroughly with a wire brush, apply flux and melt a few bits of easy (or extra easy) solder over the engraving with a soft wide flame. Tip - use a ring of tippex correction fluid to stop the solder running everywhere!. Then sand and polish, as before. Good luck. if you need any help, send me some email pics. Dave mail@celticdreams.co.uk
Celtic Dreams Thanks for the advice, I'll give it a go.
Insanely beautiful. Thank you so much for sharing.
Well I cant take any credit for the design, i just polished it. Thanks. Dave.
Celtic Dreams maybe not, but you certainly worked a miracle on it.
Great demo. I've just been looking at vintage solid sterling silver belt buckles and the engraved monogram ones can be had for much cheaper than the non-engraved ones. Most buckles I'm looking at are 44 mm x 32 mm (1.75" x 1.25") and weigh between 18 and 20 grams depending on the design of the back of the buckle. In your experience, can you tell us about how many grams of metal end up being removed for a piece like this with shallow etching similar to your video?
Difficult to say precisely, but you don't loose much. On big ID bracelets I may lose a couple of grams. And on Gold signet rings I have restored, its almost immeasurable. As you say, monogrammed or engraved items are often cheaper. Glad you liked the video, thanks for watching. Dave.
I appreciate the reply--thank you!
Excellent video thanks so much! Can you suggest a way to do the reverse, which is to restore the engraving to like it was on the first day it was done? I mean how do you clean the engraving where it has gone dull/ dark? So for example with RAY, how would you clean those lines in the lettering to be shiny again and not dark? Thanks
Try using a fine wire brush on a Dremel to get into those fine details, then polish the whole piece. Dave
@@CelticDreamsCoUk Thanks dave!
I got an Art Deco silver cigarette case that had been kept in it box with it's linin protective sleeve. It is in very good shape. It had not been monogramed so I took it and got it engraved. The engraver engraved this excellent piece Upside down. I see your way works well. My concern is if I do this to it I might miss up the engraved pattern on it. Is there something I can use to mask it off so when I file it down it wont mess up the factory pattern?
Its best to practice first. I've been doing this for over 20 years. If you've never done this before then it's a little risky to just jump straight in with a valuable antique. Perhaps better to take it to a jeweller such as myself. Dave
@@CelticDreamsCoUk I am in the USA. What would you charged to do it?
Personally I charge £20 to remove initials and repolish an item, Basically its just the time require to do it. Im sure any competent jeweller in the USA should be able to do this for you. Dave.
@@CelticDreamsCoUk I got it DONE! Thanx. I will say though Americans do not take as much pride in this as you do. It cost $25.00 to get it removed and 10 to have it re-engraved. The guy is a silversmith and goldsmith but he had no idea the Lion meant it was sterling, the anchor meaning it was made in Birmingham and the E meant it was done in 1929. I had to show him online. He first said it was not sterling because it was not stamped 925. You would have done a much better job and it would have been worth the wait.
Hi Dave, love the video. I know I'm late to the party so to speak but what process would you recommend with something like a sterling silver napkin ring. I have a few that are engraved and realise it's quite a finnicky item to refurbish. Any tips you could drop my way?
All the best
same basic principle, you need to sand away the engraving then re polish it. but with a napkin ring ( or anything cylindrical) you need to sand top to bottom and at least half way round, blending very gradually into the non sanded part. When polished it should be seamless. You don't want a flat spot on one side. check out the bangle restoration video see link for a few tips. Dave. ruclips.net/video/RyTZDJ-q0os/видео.html
What was the tools you used to polish sterling silver coin/flatware? Would you please list the name/ brand of the tools? Thanks a lot!
I explain what tools I am using in the video. I am not going to list "everything I use" here. But If you have a specific question then do ask. Dave
Great video - so often the details are glossed over however you pretty much ticked all the boxes. Question - have a Black Matte Zippo lighter which I purchased from eBay and seller neglected to advise/take picture of the engraving. Can the engraving be removed and restore the Zippo to like original condition?
I believe Zippos are made of brass, so it would need repainting afterwards. But yes, same principle. sand down the entire panel and then repolish. But less need to re polish if you are painting it. likewise if you're painting it, then you could simply try some car body filler, if that's easier. Dave.
How would you remove deep engravings(two or more fingernails thick) from a hand engraver, especially in chrome? I have needed to remove home engravings from antique guitar amps and test equipment such as oscilloscopes. For example I have a vintage microphone that has a chrome ring engraved and I can’t grind half the ring away to polish it.
I always use the same techniques, sand, finish, polish. The issue with something chrome is that this will obviously remove the plating. So the item would then need to be re chromed, not sure how feasible that would be. Hope this helps, Dave.
@@CelticDreamsCoUk I'm not talking about professional engravings, but that garage diy several millimeters, or 1/8 of an inch deep engravings in sloppy hand writing. To remove enough material from that threaded ring on my mike, I'd need a lathe, and it would probably be too weakened to avoid splitting it when retightening it as I'd have to thin the material by about half, also it would completely remove the chrome plating.
I've used grind wheels to take carved etch sections of printed on face plates down that deep, but I can't do the entire faceplate without losing the printed scales. I've dealt with decommissioned analogue lab equipment, and 50's pot metal power tools, and guitar amps. It's that garage diy stuff I see constantly on vintage oscilloscopes, tools, etc. I know how to fill it in on wood cabinets, but not metal. I was thinking silver solder may be key.
Sometimes removing an engraving with grinding/sanding just isn't a viable option, but is there a way to minimize it's visibility?
I have a piece of titanium that has an engraving on it. Could this be moved in the same fashion Dave?
Theoretically yes, but Titanium is much tougher and would require a more aggressive polish. Perhaps one designed for stainless steel. Dave
Hello! I enjoyed your video. Can I ask where you purchased the filing tools from?
The Diamond files came from Eternaltools.com here in the UK who specialise in watchmaking and jewellery equipment. The main thing is to get FINE ones. Cheap, foreign diamond files are often very coarse and would make things worse. The all important buff sticks, you make yourself, see below. Hope this helps. Dave
ruclips.net/video/f4GanMC6JUs/видео.html
Dear Dave...can this also work on a Tiffany sterling PEN? I am wondering because it is curved... love your videos from mike
Yes the method is the same for any shape. Follow the curve of the pen and keep it all equal to avoid any flat spots. Obviously a more tricky challenge with a pen, especially for s first attempt, but quite possible. Dave
Hello Dave, I’ve found some sterling silver champagne cups and I am wondering if it’s worth it to buy them and have the engraving removed. The engraving is along the base of the cup and consists of four words. “25 YEARS OF LOVE”. Or should I just place a sterling silver plate over it? It’s Tiffany so I don’t want to make it worth nothing...
If the engraving is shallow, then it should be simple to polish the engraving out. Any jeweller should be able to to this for a small charge. Dave
Dear Dave,
How do I do it on pewter?
Thank you sir
Raymond
Hmmm. I haven't really done a great deal with pewter. But its much softer than silver. You probably don't need the file, just the buffing sticks. use a finer grit of sandpaper, and go lightly with the polishing to avoid creating depressions. You are never going to get a mirror shine like silver. but it should be quite easy to remove any marks of engraving. Hope this helps. Dave
@@CelticDreamsCoUk
You should give it a try and let us know. It's not like there aren't any pewter mugs you can try it with. Hell, I almost trip on over them here at yard sales here in America.
Thank you Sir.
Hi can I apply this technique to an art deco cigarette case? It's been engraved with the letters w.g. but in a small area (Also it's not silver)
If its not silver, then do check what exactly it is. If its chrome or silver plated, then any polishing is going to remove the plating. So do ensure you know what you are working with. Dave
Do you take on small projects? If so, I have two Cutco knives with Bank of America engraved on them that I want removed. Cost/approximately?
www.celticdreams.co.uk. Dave
I am not sure if I am being a blonde but I am unable to see the P275 super fine in yellow. I am only looking for a small amount of them both. Also I have some identity bracelets that have names on them . What would I need to rub them out as I couldn’t quite get what you was using with out going backwards and forwards trying to write it all down lol. Thank you
They don't do "small amounts" they come in large blocks as you see...
www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Menzerna-P164-Blue-Polishing-------Compound,-Universal-prcode-999-MZ02&query=menzerna&channel=uk
www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Menzerna-P275-Yellow-Compound,-Pre-Polish-Medium-Cut-Pre-Polish-prcode-999-MZ03&query=menzerna&channel=uk
Both of these can be used on your ID bracelets, but start by sanding. Check out my video dong just this....Dave
ruclips.net/video/Iv6NNClZdNU/видео.html
excellent videos, really like the info, could you comment on the best way to re polish Sprenger Balkenhol Made of German Silver spurs, they are really scratch have no shine, want a mirror look, thanks,
"German Silver" is not actually silver. it's an alloy of nickel. Unless of course you simply mean silver, that is made in Germany. Either way they should polish up the same. As shown here, start by removing the scratches, using rough sandpaper 200 grit, or files. Smooth the surface with finer sandpaper 600 grit until smooth and even. then polish, with an abrasive compound like the Menzerna Blue intensive Polish P164 with a firm Unhitched mop. then finish with a loose cotton mop and Menzerna yellow P175 super finish. See also a video I made for Eternal tools on the different Dialux polishes, which may also be useful. Dave
ruclips.net/video/JPhqBsQNN6A/видео.html
helo dave how about removing engrave gold rings from the inside I would love to see a demo thanks Dave for the tip I've learned a lot
Same principle. use a small buff stick, polish, as before. The thing to note is to avoid wearing the inside of the ring too thin, or creating an uneven narrow part. so the whole inside of the ring should be polished to keep it equal. The problem here, is that you may remove the hallmark, so it may need reapplying by the assay office.
That said, most ring engravers work by scratching letters into the ring, so usually they're quite superficial and so should polish out very easily with a buff stick and then some Tripoli.
Could it possibly be the jens hansen one ring that you refer to by any chanse?
I had this same question on a gold mens ring..ty
Can we do this with gold? Can we use a good quality nail file?
Nail "file" perhaps not, but certainly emery boards and buffing sticks can be used if you have nothing else. The real secret to my finish though is the Menzerna polish. So you do need something to polish it with, such as a Dremel or similar. Dave
How would you change this process if it was on a rounded piece like on a trophy?
Same process, You just keep following the curve as you sand. I've found you usually need to go at least half the way around to beld it all in. and top to bottom as well. You mustn't stop suddenly or just sand a small area as you will have a flat spot. keep going round and sanding until it's all even. All the same principle, just a little more work. hope this helps. Dave.
Here's a quick question- if the engraving was deeply etched into the silver and you didn't have enough material for you to sand it or file awayCould you flood the engraving with Silver solder then smooth off and polish
ooh a superb question !Short answer yes. I have used this technique many times. With hand engraving you sometimes get deep spots at the corners where the graver was inserted. so when polished out you will have tiny deep spots. I use easy tube solder. Clean the area including the "spot" thoroughly. Wire brush, pickle and ultrasonic. Apply the tube silver paste generously to the spot. I use a small hot flame and just direct it at the solder paste. 'just enough' to melt it into the scratch. Not like traditional soldering where i want it flood. I want to try and keep it proud, so i can sand it down later. hence the more precise heating. The solder paste also has flux and cleaners built in which help. You can see me doing this on the gold ring restoration below. Dave.
ruclips.net/video/5QKwbEQkocM/видео.html
That's great cheers Dave
What would you do of the engraving was on a Zippo lighter in a square in the middle of a design? I'm trying to erase a name on an old Zippo I found.
I see your problem, as you cant file right to the edges. Same principle applies though sand the entire area flat, and re polish. Now in your case the sanding is going to be fiddly if it is set into another design, so the trick is to use small tools to just sand polish that area. take a look at the EVE FLEX products which will do the job. See links. Dave
ruclips.net/video/v71tE-O0Wj8/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/GERN2oHz3aM/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/UZlteJxiPl0/видео.html
Thank you!! I have the EXACT dilemma with a recovered Zippo, which led me to seek out a video just like this. My many, many thanks, Dave. I know just how many thankless hours go into these videos before the world ever sees them. It's beyond generous to teach mass amounts of folks skills you posses at no cost, and unfathomably so when the result could bear your direct competition! But I suppose that falls right in line with Richard Branson's leadership and development style (perhaps one of, if not the top, entrepreneurs I respect the most) and it seems to be working rather well for him. Your generosity humbles me, and I hope my results ate worthy to honor it. Cheers!
Excellent, but You can't do that on Knife with Pattern on Grip Scales!!! Any Recommendations other than a Dremel as a Router...
No too sure what you mean, but if the surface is textured and the engraving is cut into the texture, then yes this creates a problem. Youd have to polish flat the whole scale and then somehow re texture it. Or simply replace the scales if thats an option. Dave.
Could you flow hard solder over the engraved part and then file it flat? It would decrease the amount of metal you would have to remove
Yes indeed. If there is a really deep spot then solder could be used to fill in the hole. It is vital that the piece is really cleaned though to remove any dirt from within the scratch. Solder paste is good for this. In a similar method, a laser welder or pulse welder can be used to fill in deep engraving, holes and marks.
Hi Dave! Thank you for the video. I have a watch box that I purchased on Ebay that has a brass laser engraving (3 intials) on a thin brass plate inset into the top of the box. Any suggestions on how to remove and prepare for my initials. Thanks so much!
Sand, smooth, polish. I've got a few videos showing how I restore things. A good one is the bangle video, where I show engraving being removed, See Link. Dave
Bangle restoration
ruclips.net/video/RyTZDJ-q0os/видео.html
and how to polish silver
ruclips.net/video/Iv6NNClZdNU/видео.html
Is is possible to remove engraving from a communion style cup? I am thinking of buying one (presumably brass) if I can find a way to fill/remove some of the engraving. Thanks!
I don't see why not. Obviously with a cup you'd need to keep the buff stick moving, to prevent any flat spots. Dave.
I have a silver ring with an engraving, any tips on how to remove them?
If the silver is thick enough then as in my video here, simply sand it down and refinish. If you feel its too deep or the metal is thin, then you might be able to clean it thoroughly and fill the engraving with (a little) solder, then refinish. Jewellers often use lasers or pulse welders in the same manner, to fill engraving before refinishing. Hope this helps. feel free to email me is you need any more specific advice with it. Mail@celticdreams.co.uk Dave
Celtic Dreams thank you so much!
Thanks so much Dave, great help as ever. Any advice for doing quite deep dings/dents in a Georg Jensen 'Curve' ring? I'm scared to have a go as it's a domed kind of design. Thanks again for the great advice, following your helpful videos I'm hoping to get Tronex pliers for Christmas!
As mentioned in the video, you need to look at how thick the metal is. As long as you can file the engraving away, its just a case of polishing it after that. Feel free to send me a photo. Dave. mail@celticdreams.co.uk
Celtic Dreams Thanks so much Dave, I will do. there's certainly plenty of silver but I'm far to nervous to proceed. Will be in touch.☺
Hey Dave, I’m using your “finishing” process, but after getting a super mirror finish, I pop it into the ultrasonic and it comes out ALWAYS with a white cloud in the middle of the piece. Solution is clean in ultrasonic. I now have to start all over and it’s a never ending MERRY GO ROUND. What am I doing wrong? I heard maybe flat pieces shouldn’t lay flat in the ultrasonic basket? Helppppp! Also..Menzerna has changed ALL their packaging and numbers. Which EXACTLY do you use and where can I get it?
The first thing to consider is the white cloud, it may be fire strain caused by soldering or over heating. If it is, then you'll struggle to remove it. You may need to go down a bit deeper. If its polish, then simple hot soapy water is all you need. the polish is simply grease. Its just tallow with abrasive particles in it. so just washing up liquid (dish soap) and hot water is all you need. As for the polish, yes they have changed their packaging. I use P164 Blue cut 4 intensive polish, and P175 Yellow cut 2, super finish.
I do also have a grey bar (from another brand) which is sometimes use if i need some serious cutting power
They actually do ten different polishes, all in varying "cuts". 1 being the finest and 8 being the coarsest. The point is you can go finer, with the M5 white which is cut 1, or you can go coarser, with things like the333 green cut 5, 456G grey cut 7, and the 136A Ochre which cut 8.
As for where you can get them, I don't know what country you are in.
Hope this helps.
Dave
Celtic Dreams Thanks so much! Exactly what I needed. And..I’m in the “armpit” of the U.S. (West Virginia) Ha! I appreciate you!
if you send me an email I can reply with PDF chart of all the Menzerna jewellery polishes. I don't where where I found it, (Menzerna website somewhere) but it shows all the new colours. Dave mail@celticdreams.co.uk
I cant find Menzerna at any of the usual USA suppliers like Rio Grande , Gesswein etc. So you may have to order it from the UK and pay a little more postage. Dave
www.cooksongold.com/category_select.jsp?channel=uk&query=menzerna
Celtic Dreams Dave, I FOUND it. Menzerna USA 1-877-453-7227 has both P164 and P175. You have to call them but they’ll ship it right out. The shipping from UK was $50 so I saved on this. Info is for anyone else that asks you or anyone that reads this. Your work is spot-on with regard to finishing so I want to mimic your process. Thanks so much!!!!
Dear Dave,
I need your help! How can I contact you for help with removing some engraving from my Cutco knives?
www.celticdreams.co.uk
Is it the same for gold?
Yes. Gold responds in the same way with the same polishes. The only real difference is that high carat gold 14k 18k etc is a lot softer than sterling silver, so will usually need less sanding. So just go a little lighter with gold. Hope this helps. Dave
@@CelticDreamsCoUk it will help thank you
Great tip Dave. Very handy for future reference re looking out for future purchases!
+Frances Winyard I've done this with lots of ID bracelets and a few signet rings too. Instantly more saleable. Dave.
To be honest I don't think that doing that would have occurred to me so thanks again Dave.
Hi Dave - Nice job! BTW, your ultrasonic cleaner looks interesting. Can you tell me the brand / make / model...? Thanks! -
It's just a little cheap one. JPL 7000. But be aware that they brand them for other companies, so you can see the same cleaner with different names, and hugely different prices. But search for a JPL 7000 and you should pick one up fro about £30 GBP. It doesn't have any heating capabilities, but I just use hot water in it with a drop of dish soap (fairy, dawn). and it removes all the greasy polish in a few seconds. I didn't believe they worked until i got one. but its a little gem. Hope this helps. Dave
this is great! I kept using a flex-shaft and was wondering why it kept getting indents :/ Thanks again!
Keep the tool moving to avoid wearing dents. Take down the whole area and keep it all flat. Dave
How do you do this with a gold plated tungsten ring on the inside?
So a tungsten ring, with gold plating over it, and engraving on the inside. Well in the first instance, if you want to remove the engraving then you'll need to sand and polish it away, that's the bottom line there. Tungsten will take a litl emore doing, but emery will do it. Afterwards the piece would be re gold plated. Most repair jewellers will be able to re gold plate an item for a few pounds. Alternatively you can buy a cheap "pen plater" and retouch it up later. Hope this helps. Dave
if the engraved deep enough, u will make a bad shape of item after polish, BUT can we just pour melting silver on the engraved position, just wondering?
Yes, you can sometimes add solder to fill in tiny holes. But this isnt something that I do myself. I don't need to. As mentioned in the video, to avoid a "bad shape" it is important that you sand the whole area equally to avoid causing depressions. If there is one tiny area that need sanding, the whole surface needs to be taken down equally. Hope this helps. Dave
Hi could you tell me where to buy Menzerna is Polish pls in the UK
Cooksons www.cooksongold.com/category_select.jsp?channel=uk&query=menzerna
you want the P164 blue (pre polish) and the P275 Yellow (super finish). Dave
Hi, what can I use instead of the menzerna IP hard wheel? Can I use any hard wheel as a replacement?
You just need a mop that's firm and allows you to put a little pressure on for the first stage. So a small stitched mop, or felt wheel. Failing that you can use a regular soft cotton mop, but it will take a little longer as you cant apply an pressure with it. Hope this helps. Dave
@@CelticDreamsCoUk Thank you so much for your reply. Happy New Years
One word - WOW! 👍
Thanks. But if you want to see something impressive, Have you seen my ring restoration ? Dave
ruclips.net/video/5QKwbEQkocM/видео.html
Would this work for a watch with an engraving on the back?
The process is the same. But a watch back may be steel. in which case it may require a more aggressive polish designed for stainless steel. The Menzerna will do it, but it will just take a little longer than it would with silver or gold. Dave
Celtic Dreams thanks for the advice
you make great videos Dave
Thank you. Dave
I have a keyring to give someone but it has the wrong writing on how do I get it off
Depends what the keying is made of. If its one solid metal then you can polish it just like I have done here. But if it has been chrome or gold plated over the top, then you have a problem. As any work would obviously remove the plating. That's why I love to work with silver. However bad it is, silver can always be repaired and polished. With plated costume jewellery, its usually not possible. hope this helps answer your question. Dave
Thanks this helps a lot
What is use for polish
Traditionally Tripoli on firm cotton mop and then Rouge on a soft cotton mop. But I now use German polish Called "Menzerna".P164 Blue to begin, and P175 Yellow to finish. Dave
Is there a way to polish if you don't have a Tumblr?
certainly, you can polish as shown. The tumbler just helps to get into the the tighter areas inside the piece. But small brushes and rubber polishing tips will do the same job. another trick is to tie a piece of thick string to a nail in your bench, pull it tight and rub rough polish along it. This can then be used to polish the insides of small items, buyt threading it through, pulling tight and rubbing the piece along the string. Dave
@@CelticDreamsCoUk Wow!!! Great advice. Thank you very much.
This was so helpful. Thank you.
You are so welcome! Dave
Can’t u just fill it in with silver solder for jewelry making and the policy the high spots??? That’s if you have the ability or can find a jeweler to do so?? You did a fantastic job on this though
In theory Yes, if the engraving is too deep to remove it may be an option to fill the engraving with solder (after cleaning the piece very thoroughly). But then you still need to sand and polish it to remove excess solder and get the finish back, so not usually any advantage. It's just an extra process to go through. Dave.
wondering if this could work on an iPod... hmmm 🤔
I have an engraving I totally regret getting that's all...
Depends what the ipod is made of. Its likely to be plated or anodised. So polishing it would remove this finish. it would either need replating, or totally polishing. Simpler to just buy a case for it. or replace the back. Dave.
@@CelticDreamsCoUk thanks for replying Dave! it's the same colour underneath when you scratch it. I'm very passionate about the originality of the backplate, as it has the original serial number engraved on there :)
the backs of these things are made completely from polished stainless steel. Mine in particular is a 6th generation.
very helpful, and love the accent!
Thank you. I've done a few polishing type videos, so check out my projects section for lots more tips. Dave
I need to do this with my 2013 Gucci money clip. It has scratches I need to get out.
Just take it to your local jeweller. A simple polish should only be a few pounds. Dave
Here I am with a "BKP" engraved piece and you're over there removing my name!
strange coincidence. But as mentioned, initials and engraving really devalue pieces as they have limited resale potential. A blank piece is much more saleable. Thanks for watching. Dave
I do this the same way, but I also add one extra step: I burnish it first. Not sure if it's that critical, but I tend to believe that it helps me in removing less material than if I didn't burnish.
Depends at what point. I wouldn't burnish the engraving at the start as you might "bury" some of the lines and then open them up later with polishing. But burnishing may be good before the final polish (after the sanding). it may help to flatten surfaces. Not a process i usually do much. I only tend to burnish when i want to highlight details or texture. Dave.
Celtic Dreams
I could see that being the case.
Great video. Love the accent.
Thank you. Northern English. Thanks for watching. Dave
Whats the name of the tools? Not an English speaker, couldn’t hear it clearly:(
which one ? Dave
beautiful piece
Thanks. amazing what bit of polish can do. Dave.
Dear dave how can i remove a name on a british service medal i won it on ebay its a afghan one kind regards tim
Depends on what the medal is made of (is it plated?) and where the engraving is. But it's always the same technique. sand it away and re polish the area. if plated then it would need re plating afterwards. Dave.
Celtic dreams thanks for your response the afgun service medal ir real its not platid so just sand? Is ther a sertin sand paper i must use thanks dave kind regards tim
nice job...it turned out great!!
Thanks. Dave.
Thanks you were much help
Glad I could help. Dave
Very good thank you for your information.
Thanks for watching. Dave
Good stuff.
+Woody Blakemore ...Thanks. Dave.
thx mate good tutorial
+Gerbrand Spanje ....Thanks for watching, and for taking the time to comment. Dave.
Fantastic! Thank you.
You're welcome. I hope you got some tips from it. Dave.
Cool name!
Ha, took me a while to spot that. Greetings Brother, there are lot of us in the world. To make matters worse, My sister even married a guy called wilson, whos son is David and grandson is David. Three David Wilsons in the car going to the wedding. With such a name tracing the family tree is nightmare. ; ) Thanks for watching. Dave
Beautiful
Thank you. I hope you picked up some tips. Thanks for watching, Dave
Beautiful!!!!
Thank you. Dave
Lovely
Thanks. Dave
It’s noticeably thinner now, though.
Obviously the metal is a little thinner as its been sanded. Hence why I said that the beginning you need to ensure there is enough material to do this. It cant be done on thin delicate items. Dave
amazing
Thank you. Dave
Those are housemarks, not hallmarks.
Indeed. Stamped By Tiffany, but not an assay office. I couldn't initially see with the naked eye, the camera is much magnified. Even so they are crisp and clear, so about as much proof as i can get that its a genuine item. Thanks for watching. Dave.
Ok don’t roast me I’m a child does this work with sand paper
"sand" paper is generally used for wood. What you need is Emery paper, which is tougher. Wrap it around wooden sticks to make Buff sticks. Takes time, but it will get you there. See vid, Dave
ruclips.net/video/f4GanMC6JUs/видео.html
What's a "bostic" 😬
A BUFF Stick. A piece of wood wrapped in emery paper, used for sanding and buffing. Hence Buff-Stick. you can see me making one below.. Dave
ruclips.net/video/f4GanMC6JUs/видео.html
@@CelticDreamsCoUk lots of thanks
I just scored a nice bracelet with Karen on it. No one wanted it lol. It’s silver and 14k Well $20 and a little bit of work to remove the engraving my wife will have a nice bracelet.
That's the idea my friend. Thats how you get the bargains. good luck. Dave
@@CelticDreamsCoUk thank you sir. You have a good one. Happy hunting as well
My last name is RAY!
Hi Ray, thanks for watching. Dave
Dead easy if you have all that equipment, yeah right.
Yes I am a jeweller and so have jewellery equipment. But this can still be achieved with a home made sanding stick and a Dremel. The tools just make things faster. Dave
That's not a hallmark, it's a makers stamp
+orgoneheart As others have noticed. Quite correct. I suspect it was retailed at the New York store in the USA and as such was not given the UK hallmarks, or import marks. Probably brought back by someone as a gift. In the UK you're correct. it would need to be assayed. Thanks for posting. Dave.
Awesome video, very helpful
Glad you liked it, hopefully you got a few tips along the way. Thanks for watching. Dave