Greetings...hammer head...…...You're welcome, and thanks, for the nice comment, and for, watching too...…….The HEI (High Energy Ignition) coil's, higher/secondary ohm readings, aren't all that fussy, but, when it comes to, the low ohms/primary side, of the ignition coil, then, it's now, shall we say, "fussy time"...!!!...lol...…….Most of the factory/stock, HEI ignition coils, that I've messed with, usually had, a very low/primary ohms reading, of, between, "just over" Zero ohms (but not Zero ohms...!!!), up to, usually, no more than, about 1 ohm (.5 ohms, is a good possibility)...…….I also, ohms test (measure "it"), when, the ignition coil is disconnected from everything else, just to be sure...…….Best bet, is to use the exact ohms "specifications", for the exact ignition coil, that's being (ohms/resistance) tested...and...….till next time...……Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
I just subscribed, I’m a cattle farmer close to retirement and I’m trying to learn as much as I can about mechanical things as it always has been an interest to learn more and more …I will forward you moving forward thank you
A lot of good info there about coil diagnostics and volt/ohm meter ranges. I would also check for a short between the primary and secondary windings since that may also cause a no spark condition. Great video that I'd bet has helped plenty of folks!!
Greetings...breeha72..........Thanks for the nice comment, and for watching too............Yes-Sir-ee-Bob, I did leave out, that, shall we say, Short (ing) to Ground, as in, touching one of the meter's test probes, to the ignition coil's frame/laminations, but, I figured, that, any problem should (I hope), show-up, having the primary and secondary coil's Ohm-Reading/s, out of whack (so to speak)...........Gotta also keep in mind, to use the "Correct/Matched" ignition system (circuit) parts, for that particular HEI/High Energy Ignition system/circuit, cuz, I've seen pictures, where, a Stock carbon button/contact had too much Resistance, for a high performance application, and, it appeared that, that Stock/high resistance Carbon Button, got So Hot, that it Melted the Distributor Cap...Yikes...!!!............There are actually "Low Ohm" (resistance) carbon buttons available for sale, that should, shall we say, prevent that high ohms/resistance...bottle-neck/roadblock...from taking place (I hope)............Gotta, also watch-out for, high resistance/bad connections, as in, all wiring connectors (I prefer, soldered, wires to connectors, as opposed to, only being crimped)..............Then, there's that sheet metal Ground Strap, that only touches, the HEI ignition coil's Frame/Laminations (poor connection practice, especially when subjected to, the good ole, Sea-side/Salt-water environment).............Last, but not least, there are (times), where, a BIG distributor Cap, HEI distributor, gets stuck into a V-8 engine, that used to have, a good ole "Points and Condenser" distributor, in there before, and, the original wire, that went to, the usually oil filled ignition coil, gets connected to the HEI distributor's "Bat" (battery) connection point, that's near the top/and in, the HEI's BIG distributor cap...say what...???............Well now, a BIG distributor Cap HEI distributor, needs Full "Battery Voltage" (12 Volts, and a bit more, when the engine is running, and the charging system is in operation), BUT, that older Points and Condenser distributor, used much less Voltage, that went through the supply wire, to that, good ole, oil filled, type of ignition coil, and, the HEI Distributor, sure "Did-Not-Like-It" at all.............Gotta, Re-Wire, safely & properly, for Full Battery Voltage, to get to, the HEI's "Bat" connection point, on/in, that BIG distributor Cap, to make "it" Happy, as well as, make the Vehicle's Owner, Happy as well, and........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Dean Hauser...…...Thanks for watching, and sorry, for not replying earlier, as, I didn't see your question until now...……Shorts between the primary and secondary coil windings (of wire), to me, will usually be showing up as, one, or maybe both, Ohms Readings, being much lower than, the Ohms "specifications", for that exact HEI coil (could be, that, some of the coil windings shorted out/together, possibly)......….To check/test an HEI (High Energy Ignition) coil, while it is out of that Large distributor cap, for any "shorts", as in, an electrical short to ground, would be, to place (actually, scratch it in, really good, for a good connection!), with one of the Ohm Meter's test probes, on the outside, of the steel laminations (layers of thin sheet metal, that are sandwiched together), and, place the other probe, on one, of the 3 wires, that are not attached to anything, and, only do, one at a time, as well as, touch the moveable probe tip, to the recessed steel contact point, that's in the middle of the HEI ignition coil, where the carbon button's "spring" makes contact, and also, have the Ohm Meter, set to the highest scale/range, so, it will be much more sensitive, at finding even the smallest amount of, not wanted, shorting to an (electrical) ground problem...…...Even though, an ignition coil checks out on an ohm meter, then sometimes, an ignition coil might not work all that well, when it heats up to Operating Temperature...…...So then, if an ignition coil starts acting up, when it gets warmer, you'll know all about it, in case it ever happens, and, I hope not, and...….till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thank you for showing me how to test HEI coil , actually I tested it but I noticed one of the wires on the low side seemed to be arking so I repair it works like a champ awesome work you do .
Very good clear instruction on checking an HEI coil. Used this video to check my 1976 Chevy coil, it checked out OK as per video. Turns out I I needed a control module for my no-spark condition , saved me a lot of guess work and money.
I don’t have any spark and have never worked on an hei before so this is excellent. I have worked on lots of high voltage transformers and other things at the power company so I understand most everything. Thanks a lot. There was a ground strap missing in the new kit that connected the core to the middle black prong on the plug so I think that might be the problem. Thanks!
I hate checking coils I've tested them and they tested good at the time but in the end replacing them fixed the problem. 3k-30k is a huge range you'd think it would be much more narrowed. I'm still in the process of fixing an ignition problem. Intermittent cutting out at 1500rpm light load. Pull over go in store and drive no problems it's a head scratcher. My injection system is driver adjustable and I've ruled out a lean or rich condition. New dizzy cap rotor and wires. Waiting on FedEx to deliver a new modual but also wondering if my super coil is going bad never know at this point shit is getting old just want to enjoy my car.
Greetings...CIA Assassin..........Thanks for watching..........Well, here are one or two things, that might cause the symptom, that you described.........If the "ignition control module", is the type, that mounts on the inside, of an HEI/High Energy Ignition, LARGE Cap distributor, then, here Ya go (same applies to, ignition control modules, that need to transfer any excessive heat, sometimes, to air cooled, heat sink "fins") .........The "bottom/metal surface" of the ignition control module, and its aluminum "mounting pad", that's on top of, the distributor's aluminum body, have to be as clean as possible, and, a thin/smeared coating of..."Heat Sink"...specific...paste/grease-like compound (No..."not", Die-Electric grease...!!!), should be applied, only to the "bottom/metal part", of the ignition control module..........The reason for this, is that, the ignition control module "develops", quite a bit of "Heat", while in operation, and, the computer/type of, "Heat Sink" specific, paste/compound, does the best job, at "transferring", the ignition control module's" "Heat", into that distributor body's, aluminum "mounting pad"..........You can find the "Heat Sink" specific, paste/compound (usually sold, in a small squeeze tube), at a "computer store", that sells things like, mother-boards, sound & video boards, memory, etc........The Computer guys-n-gals, use this heat sink goop, on CPU's & GPU's, that develop a lot of heat, while in operation........Just buy the cheaper stuff, b-cuz, some of the high tech brands, can get quite expensive.........If applicable, also, make sure, that, those 2 holes/eyelets, that go through the ignition control module, and the 2 machine screws, that go through them, are as "clean" as possible, b-cuz, those items, are the electrical "Ground"...!!!..........Check all wiring "connections", and make sure, that, they are all, as Clean as possible..........Is your ignition coil's "Primary Ohms" (resistance), "specified", to get along with/match-up with, the "exact" ignition control module, that you are using...???...............Correct spark plugs, and, spark plug..."Gap"...???.............Some years ago, I had a Chevy 350 engine, with a points & condenser distributor, just go "Silent", and turn itself off, once it got, almost up-to operating temperature, but, just coast/pull over to the curb, and let it cool down for a few minutes, and then, the darn thing would start right up, and keep going, as if, there wasn't anything wrong at all...!!!..........After all of the (my) head scratchin', guess what was causing it...???..........Well, it turned out to be, that, the short spark plug Wire, that goes down into the oil filled, cylindrically shaped, ignition coil's high voltage Tower, had started to (high voltage) "Arc", between the metal clip/terminal, and the spark plug Wire's..."center/internal conductor", as in, the internal conductor, for some reason or other, wasn't "firmly crimped/connected" to the metal clip/terminal.........So, I figure, that, over quite a few miles, that "Gap", grew...larger...and...Larger...and...LARGER...until, it got to the point, where, the ignition coil, didn't have enough Guts/high voltage, to be able to "jump", such a LARGE Gap, when the engine warmed up, some-what (like I was sayin', always started-up, and ran good, but, "only when cold, or not very warm")...........If your ignition system is different, from what I was tellin' you about, then, if you care to, just let me know, all about, what you have there, and any of its problems as well, and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
With key on should tach side of lead at hei distributor show 12v with engine not running? I keep blowing gauge fuse and I’ve got power on both sides of fuse with it pulled. I can keep from blowing fuse if I pull the tack lead. Thanks
My coil resistance from red to yellow wire fluctuates. Is this the sign of a bad coil? It's almost new and I just cleaned the connections. There is no oil or anything and I held them steady.
Greetings...I Bee Amazin.........Thanks for watching........Try this......Connect your meter's two probes together, to see if you get a steady reading, in case your meter is the culprit..........Also, if you manually select your ohms/resistance ranges, via a rotary dial, then, maybe try a different range, and see what happens........Re-measure your coil, while flexing the wires, in order to see if there is an intermittent connection, or perhaps, an internally broken wire (inside its insulation)..........I've never seen an ignition coil, cause a fluctuation like you're seeing, and, for me, it's usually, high, low, or none at all, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
According to Chilton and many other sources, you tested the secondary incorrectly. No where does it say to test the ground(black wire) to anything. The secondary resistance is the tach or batt terminal to the center button. That is the one that's supposed to be between 6k-30k. I saw someone mention that you can test batt and tach to ground to see if there is a short to ground, but there are no other tests to ground.
Greetings...Vengeance...……..Thanks for watching...…….Well, according to the picture, that I saw, that was in a "Wells" troubleshooting book, it was showing, to ohms test the "secondary side" of the HEI (High Energy Ignition) coil, while it was..."Removed"...!!!...from, the HEI's Large distributor cap, by connecting, one ohm meter probe, onto the "middle" wire, and the other probe, to that recessed metal contact point, that's about in the middle of the HEI coil's body (where the carbon button's "spring", make's contact, when it's installed)……….The HEI's "outer" two wires,were for testing the "primary" coil windings...…...There might be, an "internal" wiring connection, where-by, Ya can test the secondary coil of windings, while "including" the "primary" coil of windings, at the very same time, and, not really be aware, that, it's happening...!!!...say what...???...lol..…..Well, if ohms testing, the secondary side, on the "high ohms range", while the primary coil of windings, was present in that particular electrical circuit, then, that, primary coil's windings, being..."one ohm or less"...as I see it..."would-not"...be..."detected" at all, because of, the..."high ohms range"...that, the ohm meter was already set on...!!!...cool huh (I've done it lots of times, while ohm-ing, those, good ole, 1.5 ohm, cylindrically shaped/oil filled ignition coils, and, will probably be doing a few more, if need be...…...The "Wells", electrical automotive parts company, have probably been around, for about 100 years, there-abouts, and, are a well respected company, that, as I recall, supplied new vehicle manufacturers as well...……So, if Ya ever have your HEI ignition coil..."out-of-the-distributor cap"...do those ohms tests, like I've been doing, and see what ohms readings, that will be waiting for you, and...….till next time...…...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
the one thing you did not show was coil to coil test to see if there shorted which was the problem with mine ,The test showed good but they were shorted together
Greetings...edieken7...……..Thanks for watching...…….Yes, sometimes, things like that happen...…...I would then assume, that, you installed a different ignition coil, and then found, problem gone, and...…till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
mark teague Greetings mark teague....Thanks for watching, and I'm glad, that this video of mine, was able to help You out somewhat....................................PerTronix HEI System, You say.......................................Seeing as how you have a 1938 Chevy Street-Rod, that has me Thinkin'...that I should say the following, just in case, it happens to apply in Your situation, maybe.........................................What happens, every now and again, is, a Person will Remove, that good ole "Points & Condenser" Factory/Distributor, and "Replace It", with a Brand Spankin' New..."HEI Distributor", and, might not be having a very Good Running Engine, after He or She did so..............................................If that be the case, what usually, will cause this scenario, is that, the "Ignition Coil" (usually the Cylindrically Shaped, Oil Filled Type), that is/was, part of the Original/Factory, "Points and Condenser" Distributor "System", has, what is called a "Ballast Resistor" (General Motors Vehicles, usually used a Special Resistance Wire, and sometimes, like the Other Vehicle Manufacturers, would also use the Ceramic Block Type), in its Ignition Wiring Circuit..........................................What this "Ballast Resistor" did, was to "Reduce the Vehicle's Battery Voltage"...to the..."Ignition Coil"...to Prevent the Ignition Coil from Burning-Out, as well as, somewhat Protecting the Breaker Points, as well..................................................Now then, what some Individuals did, when they Installed, that Nice New..."HEI Distributor"...or might even be a Used One, from an Auto-Wrecker/Used Parts Supplier, is to, just..."Connect"...that very..."Same Ballast Resistor Ignition Wire"...that use to Connect, to the "Cylindrically Shaped, Oil Filled Ignition Coil's Terminal", and, what just about any..."V-8---HEI Distributor"...Actually..."Needs", is..."Full" Vehicle "Battery Voltage", and "Not, that Reduced Voltage" that was Supplied, to the "Older Style of Ignition Coil", by the "Ballast Resistor", in that Older Ignition Wiring Circuit.....................................Or Simply Put....a "V-8-Style-HEI"...Distributor..."Needs Full Battery Voltage, Connected to the HEI's Distributor Cap's, Battery Terminal"...or..."It Just Won't Work Very Well at all".................................................If the Above, applies to Your particular situation, maybe, Check some of The "Website Forums", on the Internet, maybe along the lines of a "Hot Rod" one, for starters, and more, if needed, as there will be many People, that will have already made, the, shall we say..."Modification"...to Their Vehicle's..."Wiring"...as far as the "Ignition Wiring/Circuit" , that Leads to Their..."HEI Distributor Cap Terminal"...is concerned, and I say again, just to be sure..."Make Sure that Your "V-8 Type of ..."HEI Distributor"...is getting Supplied with..."Full Battery Voltage"...!!!..............................................Also, make sure, that You "Install the Correct", Gauge/Thickness, of Wire, and any Needed Fuses or Circuit Breakers, that are needed, to Conduct that Full Battery Voltage and Amperage as well"...and the Voltage, can be as "High" as about..."15 Volts"...when Your Vehicle's Charging System is Operating, any time, that Your Engine is Running as well...........................................................A simple way, to Check for the "Amount of Voltage", that is leading up to Your HEI's Distributor Cap is...................with the "Engine Cold, and Not Running"..."Disconnect the Wire that goes to the Battery Terminal, on Your HEI's Distributor Cap...then, hook up the Volt-Meter's test lead to that Wire, and the other test lead to Vehicle Ground (aka, chassis, frame/under-carriage)..........then, Turn Your "Ignition Key" (or whatever), to the "Run Position" (Not Starting Position...!!!)...and, with the Volt-Meter, You will be able, to actually "See", what Voltage, is Running through that particular Wire............................You should be Seeing..."12 or More Volts"....................................Once You have the Voltage Reading taken, just simply, Turn Off the Ignition Key (or what-ever), then Remove the Volt-Meter's Test Leads, and Re-Connect that Electrical Supply Wire, to the Correct, HEI, Distributor Cap "Terminal" ..........................................If it turns out, that Your HEI Distributor, is giving You any further headaches, just let me know, as much as You are able to, in a comment or two, under any of my RUclips Videos, and I'll do what I can, to help You out.................Good Luck, and...Till next time...............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thanks! I pulled the ignition coil and checked the resistance of both the primary and secondary. They both appear to be ok. I think I got around 5 Ohms on the primary and maybe 7.5 k-Ohms on the secondary. PerTronix advertises a spec of 8.5 k-Ohms on the secondary coil of their "Flamethrower" branded HEI style ignition coils. So, I figure the 7.5 k-Ohms is reasonablly within spec given what their manufacturing tolerances probably are and the accuracy of my Ohm meter technique. This '38 Chevrolet was a project car that my father enjoyed tinkering around on in his retirement. He passed away in August of 2009 leaving it to my mother who didn't want to part with it for sentimental reasons. It sat unmoved in our garage until the Spring of 2013 when my girlfriend's brother helped me to set the ignition timing and fire it up. It ran fine (ignition wise) up until a few weeks ago. I start it up about once per month just to cycle the battery and distribute fluids through engine / transmission passageways, etc. I tried to start it up about a week ago and it wasn't getting "fire." Probably just a loose connection somewhere in the ignition circuit. But, I thought I would rule out the coil before chasing wires and connections. It is a fairly neat wiring job. But, I didn't help my father with that aspect of it. So, I'm not sure what goes to what without following everything from end to end. I did help install the pistons to the rod little ends with those spring type wrist pin keepers. :P
mark teague Greetings mark teague....You're welcome, and, I did have a look at that 1938 Chevy Hot-Rod Video............Sure is a nice lookin' Ride alright...but, I'm not all that sure, about the Music, that I heard in that very video!...lol...well, I guess it wasn't all that bad...but, maybe a song, somthin' like..."Bad to the Bone"...perhaps, could go quite well, with that particular video, don't-cha-think?.......................I saw, that You were sayin', about getting "5-Ohms" on Your Primary Coil Reading, which to me, looks kind of "Suspect", as, most of the "HEI" type of Ignition Coils, that I've taken a "Primary Coil" Reading of, happen to be..."A Little bit above Zero Ohms" (but, Not Zero Ohms), and pretty much "Under 1 Ohm" as well...!!!...and, even most of the older, oil filled type of ignition coils, Primary Coil Readings, were much less the "5-Ohms" as well....................................Perhaps, You might have left the "Decimal Point", just in front of that "5" out maybe...???........................................Please, "Check the Primary and Secondary" Ohms Specifications, for Your "Exact" Ignition Coil, just to be Sure, just in case...................................Also, in order to get a "True & Accurate"..."Ohms/Resistance"...Reading/Readings...then, the "Wiring"...that is "Connected", to the "Ignition Coil's"..."Terminals"...should be "Removed"...or...the "Ohm Readings", just might "Include", some of the..."Ignition Wiring Circuit, and/or Components..."Resistance Values"...as well...!!!...just sayin'...............................................................Also, the "Distributor", that is Installed in Your Engine, is "It"really, a "Coil-in-the-Top-of-the-Distributor-Cap", Type of HEI Distributor, or is the "Ignition Coil"..."Mounted Remotely" (aka, separate, from the actual Distributor) by chance...???.............................................Also, if "It" is a Real-Genuine, HEI, type of Distributor, did You happen to take those "Ohm/Resistance" Readings, while the Ignition Coil, was still Mounted in the Distributor Cap, as that alone, has the ability to somewhat alter the Secondary Coil's Ohm Readings, considering that, that very Reading is taken Through the Carbon Button/Resistor as well..............................................Hmmmmm........might not be an "Ignition Related" problem, that's keeping the Engine, from going..."Va-Room"...as, sometimes, it could be..."Fuel System Related"......................................Try the following................With "Engine Cold, and Not Running"..........Remove the Air Cleaner Housing or Air Filter, what-ever-it-is, and, with a small squirt bottle, with some gasoline in it, just squirt about a Table-Spoon full of gasoline, into each of the Carburetors Bores.............then Re-Install the Air Cleaner Housing/Filter, what-ever-that's on top of the Carburetor, just in case the Engine Back-Fires.............then, try to Start the Engine......................If the Engine "Fires-Up", for a very Short time, and actually Sounds, like it really wants to Start, then, I'd be inclined to be thinkin', that it, just might be, like I was sayin', just a short time ago...a..."Fuel System Related Problem", after all.........................................Does sound kinda weird, that the Engine Ran OK, for quite some time, then...Oh-No...Engine-She-No-Go...and...What's-a-Happenin'-Now...???............................................Well, I still don't know,..."What Engine"...You are dealing with...???.......................................It's up to You, if You want to try and "Prime the Carburetor with a few Squirts of Gasoline", and, If You do, probably be a good idea, to have a "Fire Extinguisher" nearby, just in case, somethin' goes wrong...(I never had a problem, as long as I Re-Installed the Air Cleaner Housing, with the Air Filter/Element/Cartridge in "It", before I started any Engine, using the good ole, gasoline, squirt bottle routine)...................................It's good to know, that You really did, do some work, on that Car alright, as that alone, will always make, for some very heart-felt Memories.........................................................................So then, if You care to, keep me in the Loop, so to speak, and I'll do what-ever I can, to help You out, if need be......................Good Luck, with that 38-Chevy..............Till next time............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
PerTronix Tech Support seemed to think that the ignition module inside the distributor is bad. So, I pulled that today and am going to swap with one from another HEI distributor we have laying around. Apparently, their street model unit with vacuum advance is pretty much an OEM style replacement and parts are interchangeable.
mark teague Greetings mark teague....Let the real fun begin, as in...tryin' to track down the Culprit/Gremlin, that just might be causing that "No Spark" situation, that You are experiencing, on that "38-Chevy-Streetrod".............................................In order to save Time &/or Money, when "Diagnosing", any "Vehicle Related Problem", it's almost a No-Brainer, that, much like Tryin' to..."Win"...the..."Super Bowl"..."Stanley Cup"...or even..."Olympic Gold"...for that matter, would, as I, and probably many Others as well, would see it, would to, probably be Thinkin' along the lines, of having a, shall we say..."Game Plan"...or, If..."No Game Plan"...the..."Result"...of the..."End Game"...as in..."Winning"...that..."Trophy"...as far as the..."Sports Team or Athlete"...is concerned, see's it, will probably..."Not be Achievable"...!!!........................................Some Window Dressing that was...huh?...lol................................................All-righty then, just like, I was just eluding to, as in, having a "Game Plan", will usually, like I was sayin', will most likely be...Saving Time & Money, and will, as I see it, make for a lot Less, Headaches and Frustration, if You, Others, or I, were to Follow, that there..."Bread Crumb Trail"...some-what, in an..."Orderly Manner"....................................First off, did You..."Actually Verify"...that You were Getting that..."12 Volts or More"...from the..."Ignition Supply Wire"...that..."Connects to the HEI's Distributor Cap Terminal", with the Engine Cold, and "Not Running", and having the Ignition Key (or what-ever), in the Run Position (Not Start Position)...???................................................You see my Friend, always Start at the "Beginning", of that there "Bread Crumb Trail", in order to "Eliminate" any of the "Suspects", if You will................................................Did You try, like I was sayin', in my Other Comment/Reply to You, to "Prime the Carburetor, with a Squirt or Two, of Gasoline", to see if the Engine, would at least "Try to Fire/Start Running"...???.........................................If You don't actually "Verify", those..."Two Things"...and start, Replacing/Substituting Parts & Pieces, You'll just be wasting "Time", and maybe "Money" as well (Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...I've...Been There...Done That...and....Wasted Time & Money Too...!!!...way back when).........................You could even go and Purchase/Buy a "Spark Tester", for an HEI Application (kinda looks like a glorified Spark Plug, with a rather Large Gap, that, once connected, will be Showing a nice Strong Spark, or, maybe None at all, when the HEI-Unit is Operating, and being Tested, oh, and, if You do...Read the Instructions...!!!...lol).............................................For "Stock Engines", in Vehicle's, Driven on the Street, which never "Red Line" (on the Tach/Tachometer), above, oh, lets say..."5500 RPM's"...I just use the "Factory Stock HEI-Unit", and they Worked just fine..............................................But, "Things Change", when-ever the Tach's "Red Line" starts getting in the "6,000 RPM's and Higher", along with..."High Compression/Race Type Engines"...and that's usually, where the "Aftermarket/Racing & High Performance Companies" out there, come in..................................Now then, about Your HEI's..."Ignition Control Module", or just Module, if You like...................................Ever had a "Static Electricity/Electrical Shock"...???...................You know, when You happen to touch a door-knob, and You get "Zapped"......................Well, if any "Static Electricity", that You may have Stored-Up, that inadvertently get "Discharged" into Your HEI's "Ignition Module"(usually through the Pins/Terminals, on either end of the Module), and just about Any other, shall we say "Electronic Chip" out there, once that, poor ole..."Electronic Chip"...Receives that, very potent, Static Electrical Charge, that happens to have the Potential, to make, just about "Any" Electronic Chip"..."Fry", as in, to start "Malfunctioning, or Not Work at all"...!!!.....................When-ever I'm in near Proximity, to Any "Electronic Chip", I, at regular Time intervals, make sure, that I touch, a cool, not moving, Metal Object, in order to "Discharge" Any Static Electricity, that I might be, shall we say "Hosting", to make sure, that I'm not the Guy, who destroyed that Electronic Chip!............................Also, when-ever an "Ignition Module", gets "Mounted/Installed", the Bottom/Base, of the Ignition Module, and the Mounting Surface, of the HEI, that the Ignition Module Mounts On (inside the HEI's, usually Aluminum Housing/Body), has to be Super Clean, and Smooth, and also, has to have, some of that "Heat Transfer Paste/Goop"..."Applied to the Bottom" (usually Metal plate/part), of the "Ignition Module", to facilitate, the "Transfer of the Heat", that the Ignition Module "Generates", when "It" is "Operating"...or, If..."Not Enough Heat Gets Transferred"...the..."Ignition Module"...will probably..."Over Heat/Fry/go Poof"...and...end of story!.........................So, there You have it, well, for now that is........................I'll be around here somewhere, if You need any more help, at all......................Till next time.............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
I would like to know if the "ground" wire (the loop) is connected to one of the primary leads internally, giving --the equivalent of-- a "3-wire coil" as in the other coils with the HV tower. I have use for this, as I can determine if the coils are wound in the same direction, thus allowing me to get a slightly HIGHER voltage as opposed to a slightly LOWER voltage when using the coils in various experiments. On the 3-wire coils, do you know if the internal secondary connection is connected to the primary "+" or "-"? This would be of GREAT help. Also, if,say, looking down on the HV tower, In which direction are the coils wound?? THANKS MUCH, --daLE
Greetings...dale nassar………..Thanks for watching...……..Well, according to my ohm-meter readings, there "is not" an internal connection at all.……...Basically, there's two separate coil windings, and usually, the primary (low voltage) windings, are a thicker/larger diameter, when being compared to, the much smaller gauge/diameter of the secondary windings...……The primary coil's leads, are on the outside, having the ground wire, between the two of them, which is connected to one end of the secondary coil, and the secondary's other end, is that steel recessed contact point, that's on one side of the coil's body, where the spring end, of the carbon/resistor makes contact, when all parts & pieces are installed in the distributor cap...……..I've never cut an HEI coil apart, so, I don't know, which direction that each of the coils are wound, be it, clockwise, or counter-clockwise...……..Basically, it's usually, the primary to secondary "turns ratio", that will determine the voltage "step-up" amount, as in, there might be 100 turns of secondary coil windings, for every 1 turn, of primary coil windings, as an example...……..The automotive type of ignition coil, usually only gets saturated (charged-up), on the primary coil, for a very, very short time, usually measured in milli-seconds, before secondary discharge takes place, so, to avoid having the ignition coil over-heat and destroy itself, Ya might want to keep that in mind...……..Be very careful, around "high voltage" electricity, or maybe, a stun-gun-like experience, it might very well be...!!!...(and I hope not), and...…..till next time......Be (extra) Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...ollehwo...........You're welcome, and, thanks for watching, and thanks for, the great comment as well..........It's good to hear, that, this video of mine, was able to help you out, and...git-er-fixed............If, and when-ever, you might be installing, a new (or used) "ignition control module", on/in, your HEI (High Energy Ignition) Distributor, make sure to use the "correct"..."thermal" (heat transferring) paste, as in, the same stuff, that the computer guys & gals use (and, not to use "die-electric" grease...!!!), because, it will usually be, the, "too much heat build-up", inside of the ignition control module, that will fry it/destroy it...!!!.............The "2-screws", that, go through the ignition control module, that secure it/mount it, are also, the electrical "ground" (for the module), so, make sure that, they are super clean, as well as, the 2 metal lined holes, that those 2 screws go through, have to be super clean too.............Also, always make sure that, all of the "electrical connections", are clean and dry, to help avoid, any, not wanted problems, and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
This is a auto transformer this a DC resistance test not suitable for test you can have shorted turns in the transformer and will not be found in this test . You need to test the impedance
Greetings ss396rat....Thanks for watching, and commenting on this video of mine....There are a few things that can be causing Your Reading of "000", Showing on Your Ohm/Multimeter....First thing is, was that HEI Ignition Coil of Yours "Working" alright, "Before" You Tested it for Ohm's Readings?....If Your Ohm/Multimeter is comparable to the Yellow Digital One that You see in this Video of mine, did You "Make Sure" that You were "Using the Correct "Range", for each of the HEI Coils Readings....In this Video, when I Measured the "Primary" Side of the HEI Coil, I had my Ohm/Multimeter "Range" set on the "Lowest Range", which is..."0" to "200" Ohm's....For the HEI Coil's "Secondary" Side, I just selected a much "Higher" Range, that would show me the Best Read-Out for that Much Larger Ohm Reading. Try this...Select the "Lowest" Ohm's Range on Your Ohm/Multimeter, and Touch/Connect the "2" Test Leads/Probes to each other. Did You see a Reading of some kind? On my Yellow Ohm/Multimeter, when Touching/Connecting my Test Leads/Probes Together, and, the "Lowest" Ohm's Range is Selected, my Readout is Showing ".3" Ohm's, and that is telling me, that it appears to be working OK, on the Lowest Range, with that ".3" Ohm's telling me, that, there happens to be, ".3" Ohm's of Resistance, that is caused by the Test Lead Wires, and probably my Yellow Ohm/Multimeters "Miss-Calibration" added in, as well. If You did, in fact, get some sort of Reading on Your Meter, when just touching the "2" Test Leads together, try "Re-Testing" the "Primary" Side of Your HEI Coil, to see if You can get some sort of Ohm's reading on that Meter of Yours. Then there's this Scenario...If Your Meter is working, as it should, and "Set" on the "Lowest" Range, and You still get "000" Ohm's Showing on Your Meters Display, while testing the HEI Coil's "Primary" side, then there is the chance, that Your HEI's "Primary" Windings are "Bad", or, there is a Problem with Your Meter. Now, about the "7.22" Ohm's Reading that You saw on Your Meters Display, has me thinking that it should really be "7,220" Ohm's for the Secondary Windings in Your HEI Coil, due to the way in which it Displays Numbers and the Decimal Point, probably, because of the much Higher Range, that You may have Selected on Your Test Meter. Specifications of about...3,000 to 20,000 Ohm's for the "Secondary" Side of Your HEI Coil should be OK. If Your "7.22" Reading is Actually "7,220", then, Your HEI's Coil "Secondary" Windings should be OK. Depending on where a Person finds the Ohm's Specifications for Any Ignition Coil, the actual Ohm's Value can Vary somewhat. On the HEI's Primary reading, there should be a quite "Low" Ohm's Reading, showing on Your Meter, but, it Should-Not be Showing "000"...!!! Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
RockysRoadshow thanks for the quick reply. I was driving my nova and melted a plug wire and the car shut off. Immediately I knew it was either the ignition box or coil, tested the coil exactly how you did in video with a brand new multimeter. 000 reading. Gonna get a coil today
Lower causes a bigger spark but risks burning out the module, higher causes a weaker spark. I try to use non resistor spark plugs and wires to push the odds in my favor. The spark plug wires are not recommended by the factory to be non resistor by the way, mainly for reasons of making static on radios.
It does not matter wat a industry needs or don’t , my life does not revolve of wat the millionaire needs, the rich want a free market, but not for the poor.
***** Greetings phil ladd....Thanks for watching, and for Your nice comment as well...........................There is One..."Very Important Thing"...to Check for..."First"...to avoid, having to go on, what, might very well become..."A Wild Good Chase"...!!!...lol...........Here's the deal.............Your HEI Distributor, has to have Battery Voltage/12 Volts there-abouts, Supplied to it, so it will Work Correctly, and as it should........................With Your Engine..."Cold and Not Running"...Remove that Red or Pink, Singe Wire, with the Connector on it, from Your HEI/High Energy Ignition...Distributor Cap..........then, Select Your Multi-Meter's Selector, at about the 20 Volt Range...........then, Hook Your Multi-Meter's "Red" test lead, to that Wire's Connector, that You just removed, from the Distributor Cap.........and, Connect, the Black test lead, to a good Ground Source...........then, Place Your Ignition Key, in the..."RUN"..."NOT START"...Position, and, You should be seeing about 12 Volts, showing on Your Multi-Meter's readout.......................If Not, then, You have probably Found the Reason, as to Why, Your, Spark Plugs, aren't Sparkin'................................If You are getting about 12 Volts, then, at least You know, that, Your HEI Distributor is getting the Proper Voltage, to start with.....................................That 1905, and that 125, that You were saying, that You had there, did You happen to Notice any "Decimal Points", in those two Readouts, at all...???...and, also, did You Notice, "What...Scale/Range", that You Selected on Your Multi-Meter...for "Both of those Tests"...???......................................If that 1905, actually is...19,000 Ohms, for the HEI's, Secondary, Coil Windings, then, that should be ok/alright, as, some Specifications, that I have seen, Specifies...3,000 to 20,000 Ohms...............The HEI's, Primary, Coil Windings, as far as I recall, should be, Between, just "Over"...0/Zero Ohms, to, no more then, about...1 Ohm...for Factory/Stock...HEI Ignition Coils................................That 125, on the wire to wire, that You mentioned, "Not Having", the Decimal Point, and, the Range/Scale, that You Used, on Your Multi-Meter, at the time, is really Miss-Leading, and, perhaps, "Do the Ohms Tests Again", and, make sure that, You pay attention, to, both, "Where the Decimal Point is"...as well as..."Which, Range/Scale", that You have..."Selected"..on Your Multi-Meter, that way, I will see, "With Accuracy", those Two/2 Ohms Readings, for Your HEI Ignition Coil...thanks.....................................Also, Watch out for..."Corrosion/Dirt/Green Stuff"...on, Both, the "3 Spade Terminals", on the Outside, near the Top, of Your HEI's Distributor Cap, where that (usually) 3 Wire Connecter..."Connects to"...as, I have seen, some..."Green-Stuff"...and..."Rust-like Corrosion"..."Growing"...there...!!!...Yikes...!!!..............So, "Check" the Things, that I mentioned above, and, if You care to, You can let me know, how Ur makin' out..................Good Luck, and.............Till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
So you started of this video testing the red and yellow wire with the ohms meter setting but didnt say what setting the ohms side? Was it 200Ω , 2kΩ or 20kΩ ???? If you did the 200 my coil read = 1.1 ? 2kΩ = 0.001 ? 20kΩ = 0.00 ? 200kΩ =0.00
Greetings...Vintage Moparnut1978.........Thanks for watching........The outer two wires, are for the primary winding, and, on a factory/stock, HEI ignition coil, the highest reading should be about 1 ohm.........The lowest reading should be, just "above" 0 (zero) ohms, but "not" zero ohms........Typically, from .1 ohms, to about 1 ohm.........So then, the "lowest" range on the ohm/multi-meter, is the correct range to use........On my yellow multi-meter, that you see in this RUclips video, then, 200 ohms, happens to be the lowest ohms range that I can select.........I usually see about .5 ohms (one half, of one ohm), on the primary side of an HEI ignition coil........At 1.1 ohms, on the 200 ohms range, then, your primary winding is probably ok...but..."re-check" your HEI ignition coil..."after"...doing the following...!!!.........When you are ohms-measuring, such a low amount of ohms, then, you have to account for, the amount of resistance (ohms), that is in your ohm-meter's, or multi-meter's test leads/probes, unless you happen to have a meter, that can "Calibrate", exactly at zero ohms...!!!........Try this...set you meter to the lowest ohms range (200 ohms?)...then...touch the two test (leads) probe tips together...see what ohms appear (if any), on your meter's display screen...if there is something showing up, then, you have to subtract this reading, from the ohms-reading, that you see, when actually ohms-testing the (low ohms) primary side, of your HEI ignition coil, in order to get, an "accurate", ohms test/measurement........I get .3 ohms, when I touch my yellow multi-meter's probe tips together, while the ohms-range is set to 200 ohms........Let's say for example, that, I see .8 ohms, while testing an HEI ignition coil.........So, all I have to do now, is to, do some simple math, as in (.8 ohms minus .3 ohms) which will equal .5 ohms, which is accurate, for my yellow multi-meter.........Ya don't need to do this, whenever measuring the secondary coil, that's inside of an HEI ignition coil, because the ohms range, will usually be, in the "thousands" of ohms, and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
I have one for ya. 1972 Cutless Supreme. 350 Rocker Motor. Original eng (point type distrib) had a rod knock which destroyed the inside of the block. Bought another engine (1975) from E-bay, HEI system. Started it on the ground, ran like crap. No compression, but it ran. Had the engine rebuilt at a local machine shop for less money than it would've cost me to build it. .030 over, new cam, crank ground, etc. Installed the engine. Put her up on TDC, dropped in the same distrib,(New cap, rotor, coil, wires) went to start it and NOTHING. No spark whatsoever. Instead of going through the ignition switch I "hot wired" it direct (as I did on the ground). NOTHING. Removed the coil cover and using a test light I confirmed I was getting power. Removed the coild and noticed on the bottom it was totally pained where the ground strap is. Took some 220 grit sandpaper and cleaned it off under and over. reinstalled the coil and NOTHING. Removed the coil and checked as per your demonstration, coil checks out, still nothing. I don't understand how it ran with all the old crap (cap, rotor, wires, coil), but won't run with all new stuff in it. Cap checks out, coil checks out, rotor's, wires all new. Is it probable the ICM went byby just sitting around?
Greetings...Mike Paul............Thanks for watching............Here's what I'll do for Ya............I will Reply to Your Comment/Question, with a number of shorter (some-what) Replies, so, be on the look-out for them..............Here's the first one...........The LARGE (distributor) Cap, V-8 HEI/High Energy Ignition Distributor..."Needs"...about 12 Volts (aka, battery voltage), so "it" will work correctly (battery voltage, might drop down to about 9 Volts, maybe, while the starter motor is in operation, and, battery voltage, can be higher than 12 Volts, when the engine is running, and the charging system is working, providing that, any, electricity sucking accessories, such as, something like, the heater blower motor, head lights, etc., are not turned on at the time)..................Lem-me-see-now.........A 1972 Olds/Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, should have had, a "Points and Condenser" Distributor, in that 350 cubic inch (probably Gold colored) Rocket, V-8 Engine, as it left the factory's assembly line, when it was brand new...............In the "Points and Condenser", ignition system's "Wiring Circuit", there is usually a "Ballast Resistor", that Reduced the Amps/Current, that was going to the Ignition Coil, so it wouldn't Overheat, and self destruct, while the Ignition Switch, was in the "Run" (only) Position, and also, the Voltage was "Lower" than 12 Volts as well, (voltage drop), and might end up being, about, 6 to 9 Volts, going to the ignition coil...maybe (I'll have to measure it sometime)................There were "2" Types of Ballast Resistors, and, could be, in the form of, a..."Resistance Wire" (1.35 Ohms/resistance maybe...???...for a General Motors V-8, points and condenser system)...or, might be, in the form of, a..."Ceramic looking/white-ish colored Block"................With the "Points and Condenser" Distributor, ignition system, while the Starter Motor was Operating, the Amp Draw, might be around 200 Amps, give or take a bit, and the Voltage would probably, drop down to, about 9 Volts there-abouts, so, there was usually, Only about, 9 Volts, that the Battery could output, to the Ignition Coil, when-ever the Starter Motor was working.............So, there was a "Separate Wire", that "Bypassed", the "Ballast Resistor", so, what-ever the Voltage, that the Battery had left-over, from what the Starter Motor was drawing, went straight to the Ignition Coil, while the Ignition Switch was in the "Start" Position..................When the Engine Started, and the Ignition Switch, then went, to the "Run" Position, then, the Wiring Circuit, Switched Over, to the Circuit, that had the "Ballast Resistor" in it, cuz, the Starter Motor, wasn't in Operation any more, and the Amps and Volts, became Higher, and available, once again.................Now then, if, and when-ever, shall we say, "Up-Grading", from the good ole "Points and Condenser" Distributor...to that..."LARGE...HEI Distributor"...then, that, Old Wiring Circuit, that had, that "Ballast Resistor" in it, has to be "By-Passed", so the HEI Distributor, gets "Full" (available) "Battery Voltage", while having the...Ignition Switch, in "BOTH", the..."Start" and "Run" positions.............If and when-ever, up-grading, to that by-pass wiring, make sure, to use, some Heavy Gauge/Thick, well insulated Wire, and if need be, put the correct Amp rated Fuse, in that wiring circuit as well, so nothing burns up...!!!...............There might be a Website or two, that have "Forums" on them, where-by, some of the Folks, have already, Safely, and have Properly done, this, so-called, Ignition Circuit, "Ballast Resistor"..."By-Pass" wiring, as, I haven't needed, to do it, as of Yet...............So, with the LARGE Cap, HEI/High Energy Ignition Distributor, always make sure, that Full (available) Battery Voltage, gets Connected to, the "BATT" Terminal, that's near, the Top of, that LARGE, HEI Distributor's (distributor) Cap...!!!............the End, of this post...and now, onto another one...
Greetings...Mike Paul............Now, for some more, HEI Distributor stuff.............This post, is going to be about, "Testing", the "Pickup Coil", for both, "Ohms/Resistance", and "Low, AC (Alternating Current) Volts Output", while still having, Your, LARGE Cap, HEI Distributor, still stuck in the Engine, or, You can also do these Tests, with the HEI Distributor, out of the Engine, as well..............Before I get to that, I just remembered something.............There were times, where an Olds (Oldsmobile) Car, might have had, a Chevy (Chevrolet) V-8 Engine in it, when it was New, right off of, the Factory/Assembly Line...interesting that, I must say (maybe check it out, if You do in fact, have, an actual, 1975 Olds, replacement Engine...sometime/maybe)................Ok then, having the Engine, Cold and Not Running, remove the (supposedly) 12 Volt supply Wire/Connector, from the "BATT" Terminal, of Your HEI Distributor's Cap, and put it safely aside, and remove the distributor Cap, to gain access to, the Pickup Coil's wiring Connector...............Here's what I always do, "before", touching anything, with my hand, that resembles an Electronic Chip, or comparable Electronic Circuit, so I don't "Zap" it, and Destroy it, with any, High Voltage/Static Electricity, that I might have stored up in me, at the time..............I just Touch, with my Hand, every few minutes, a cold and not moving Metal Part, so as to, Drain, any built-up Static Electricity, that I might have stored up inside myself, so as, Not to "Discharge", that potentially, High Voltage, Static Electricity, "into" any Sensitive, Electronic Chip or Circuit, such as, the Ignition Control Module (Static Electricity, it's the same stuff, that "Zaps" You, when You touch a door-knob...!!!).......So, once You're Discharged, then, remove the Pickup Coil's Connector, from the Ignition Control Module (is Yours, the basic, "4-Pin, Type-of, Ignition Control Module, or, maybe, it's a 5-Pin...???)..................Then, just connect the Ohm-Meter's 2 Probes, to the Pickup Coil's Connector, and, while Moving/Wiggling, those 2 Wires (in case the wires, have a Break, of some kind, inside the insulation, where You can't see it), and, it should have a Resistance, of, about...500 to 1500 Ohms...but, to be sure, look up the Specifications, for Your "Exact", HEI Distributor (there should be some Numbers, and/or, maybe Letters, that are stamped into, the HEI Distributor's Aluminum Body, on the Outside of it, on its Largest Diameter, just below, where the (distributor) Cap sits, when it's installed, onto, the HEI Distributor's Aluminum Body..................Now, for the Low Volts, AC/Alternating Current "Test"...............While the (distributor) Cap, is still Off, then, the HEI Distributor's Shaft, has to be Spinning, in order to do this particular test..................If doing this test, while having the HEI Distributor, installed in the Engine, make sure that, the Advance Weights, and nothing Below them, comes in Contact with the Pickup Coil's Wiring and Connector, or anything else, and keep everything Clear, of the Spinning Advance Weights, and the distributor Shaft, and any of its spinning parts as well..............You'll need a Multi-Meter, capable of, measuring..."Low AC/Alternating Current...Volts"....................Now then, having the Multi-Meter's Probes, connected to the Pickup Coil's Connector, and the Multi-Meter, set to, the Low AC-Volts range, then, just Crank the Engine over, with the starter motor, or, if, the HEI Distributor, is "Out" of the Engine, then, just, Spin by Hand, as fast as You can, the Helical Gear ("Watch out for any, Sharp gear Teeth"...!!!), that's on the end of the HEI Distributor's Shaft, and then, just watch, the Multi-Meter, for any, "Low AC Volts", that are showing (or not?), on, the Multi-Meter's Display................If it's working, as it should be, You should be seeing, about...1 Volt AC (Alternating Current)...give or take a bit.................So then, if either, the Ohms/resistance Test, or the, Low AC Volts Test..."Don't Test"...as they should be doing, then, the Pickup Coil, is probably Faulty then.................The Pickup Coil/Pole Plate Assembly, is, shall we say, the..."Trigger"...that Triggers, the Ignition Control Module................When those 2 sets of, 8-Triangles, are about lining up, then, that AC, low voltage Signal, gets sent to the Ignition Control Module, and then, the ignition control module (on the 4-Pin type), basically, just, Switches the Ground circuit, to the "Off" position, electronically speaking, that is, and that's when the Ignition Coil's, Electrical Field, that has already been built-up, with-in itself, Collapses, and when it does, the result is, a rather impressive, Very High Voltage release, and onto, the rest of the secondary, high voltage circuit, it goes, until it terminates, at the spark plug's gap, hopefully, that is...............The End......more to come......later, in time...
Greetings...Mike Paul.............Now then, here's some information, on the BIG distributor Cap/V-8, HEI's..."Ignition Control Module".................If, and when-ever, "installing", an ICM (Ignition Control Module), onto, the Mounting Surface, that's, on the inside, of the HEI distributor, then, make sure, that, the "Mounting Surface", that's on, the backside (metal surface), of the Ignition Control Module, and also, where it "Mounts", inside of, the HEI Distributor, are "Nice-n-Clean", and also, it's..."Very Important"...to..."Apply/Smear"...some..."Heat Sink/Heat Transferring Specific"...Paste-like stuff ("Not"...that...Die-Electric Grease-like stuff...!!!), on the backside, (metal surface), of the Ignition Control Module, "Before" Mounting "it", cuz, if You don't, then, that poor ole "Module", won't be able to "Transfer", that, quite a Lot of "Heat", that it generates, when it's working, to the Aluminum Mounting Pad, of the HEI Distributor's Body...!!! (Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...the HEI's Aluminum Body, also becomes a "Heat Sink", in near proximity, to where, the Ignition Control Module is Mounted...cool huh)...............Radio Shack, is known, to have that "Heat Sink" (Heat Transferring) goop, in a small squeeze Tube, as well as, some Computer Folks, might be using, that rather expensive stuff, known as Arctic Silver, and, there's probably, even more Products, that are out there as well, as long as, they are capable of, "Transferring", that Not Wanted "Heat"...............Those.."2-Metal-Eye-Let/Holes"...that go through, the Ignition Control Module, are actually, the..."Electrical Ground"...!!! (for the ICM), so, make sure, that, those..."2-metal-eyelets/holes"...and the...2-Machine-Screws...that Secure the ICM, to the HEI Distributor's Mounting Surface, are "Nice-n-Clean", cuz, if not, the (electrical) "Ground", might become compromised...!!! (aka, Bad Connection)..............There might be, some, Retail, Automotive Parts Businesses, that have, an Ignition Control Module..."Tester"...and sometimes, they are known for..."Testing"...Ignition Control Modules for..."FREE"...so, if You ever want to, verify that theory, just make a few Phone Calls, and ask them, if they Do, in fact, Offer, that "FREE" service, that I was just eluding to................Both, the..."Ignition Control Module"...and, the..."Ignition Coil"...have to be, shall we say, a..."Matched Set"...cuz, if Their..."Specifications"...are..."Too Far Apart"...From..."Each-Other"...then, the not so good results, might end up being...a Weak Output/Spark...or, as "Bad" as, the "Ignition Control Module", and/or, the "Ignition Coil"...get some-what, "Over-Heated", and end up, getting "Fried", and now, it's Tow-Truck-Time...!!!...(ummmm...No Thanks)................."All", of the Electrical..."Connection Points"...should be, as "Clean" as possible, or, You're just asking for Trouble, for the most part, cuz, maybe, sooner or later, something like, a not so good electrical connection, has the possibility, of turning a Fun Day, into One, that's Not so Fun (I prefer Fun, how about You...???...lol)..............I find, that, the Colder and Damper (high humidity), Environment, that, the Big Cap, HEI Distributor (as well as, just about any other, electrically related connectors & devices), are Exposed to, the more often (time-wise), that, those electrical "Connections", should be looked at, so things like...Oxidation...Moisture Intrusion, and last, but no least, the..."Green Yuck-ees"...!!!...that I've come across, not all that long ago, don't take over, and cause Trouble...!!!...so then..."Don't-Neglect-it"..."Inspect-it"...!!! (lol...I just came up with that one...and...hopefully, I'll remember "it", as well)...
I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. FOUND OUT AFTER DAYS OF LABOR THE FACTORY MISSED UP ON THE ROTOR CAP THE SPARK TRANSFER ELECTRODE WAS TOO SHORT. TOO LARGE OF A GAP TO THE WIRE TERMINAL THAT THE PLUG WIRE CONNECTED TO. PUT THE OLD ROTOR CAP BACK ON . IT STARTED UP AS SOON AS THE STARTER ENGAGED. IF IT RAN ON THE GROUND PUT ALL THE OLD EQUIPMENT BACK ON. IF IT STARTS REMOVE ONE ITEM AT A TIME REPLACE WITH A NEW PART TRY STARTING, DO THAT UNTIL ALL NEW PARTS ARE ON YOU WILL FIND THE BAD PART. YOU COULD PUT ONE OLD PART BACK ON ONE PART AT A TIME UNTIL IT STARTS.
I have high voltage in the TACH output, is it possible? I measured as high as 1000v dc, measuring beetwen +12 and TACH, Anyone knows how to solve that? Is it the coil issue? module? Itś a big issue I´ll fry another Tachometer if I connect again...
+sergio litwiniuk Greetings sergio litwiniuk....Thanks for watching, and for Your (potentially)..."Shocking"...HEI (High Energy Ignition) Distributor/Tachometer questions, as well......................The way I figure it, that 1,000 Volts DC (Your Engine was Running, I presume...???), that You Measured, is probably just Normal/the way it is, and also, I have a couple of things to tell You, as well.....................................A while back (as in Years), while my Dodge V-8 Engine was Running/Idling, I recall getting..."Zapped" (as in Electrical Shock), well, maybe, it was more like a very pronounced, Electrical..."Tingle"...when I inadvertently Touched the "Wire Clip", that I made, that was already Attached, to the Negative, Primary, Low Voltage Terminal, of the Oil Filled Ignition Coil, while trying to connect, one of my Yellow Multi-Meter's Alligator Clip/Jaws, to that wire, that I just mentioned...(sure don't need Coffee, with a "Wake-Up Call" like that...!!!...lol)...........................I recall reading somewhere, that, even on the good ole Points and Condenser Distributor, type of Ignition Systems (up till about 1974, that is), that, there very well could be, about 300 Volts present, while the Engine was running.....................................Then, quite some time ago (again I say...Years...lol), I phoned around, to see (actually Hear), just "Which"..."Tachs/Tachometers"...will..."Work/Function Properly"...with the General Motors Type of..."HEI/High Energy Ignition...Distributor", as, I was Hearin', that, there was the Possibility, that..."Some Tachs/Tachometers"...might Not..."Work Correctly/maybe Not at all"...with the HEI Distributor...!!! (in my case, my HEI Distributor, was installed in, a 350 Cubic Inch, V-8 Chevy Engine)................................Even most of the "Parts Guys", that I was talkin' to, on the Phone, back then, "Were-Not, all that Sure", that, the Tachs/Tachometers, that they had in Stock, would Work 100% Properly, when Hooked-Up to an HEI Distributor, so, I didn't Buy One, just in case, "it" Didn't Work Properly, and as "it" should........................Gotta really..."Watch-Out"...when Buying, just about any..."Electrical/Electronic"...Vehicle..."Parts/Components"...as, most of those..."Electrical/Electronic Parts/Components"...are..."Not-Returnable"...!!!...Yikes...!!!.....If and when...???...You might Buy another "Tach/Tachometer", for Your "HEI Distributor"..."Make Sure"...that..."It Will Work 100%"...with Your..."Exact"..."HEI Distributor"...!!!....................................Perhaps, find a Website "Forum", on the good ole Internet, for Your "Exact Vehicle", and Ask the Folks there..."What...Make/Brand/Manufacturer of Tach/Tachometer"...that they are Using, that will "Actually Work", with the..."Same Exact HEI Distributor"...that You have in Your Vehicle..............................Also, make sure, that You Tell "Them", if Your HEI Distributor, is "Factory Stock"...or..."Other-wise"...as in, a "Modified/not so Stock HEI Distributor", or, if Your HEI Distributor, happens to be an "After-Market/High Performance One" (You didn't say, what Your HEI Distributor, happens to be...???), just in case, there might be a Difference or two..................................I'm not sure, but, seeing as how, some HEI Distributor "Rotors" (that spin around, inside the HEI's Distributor Cap), will be Turning/Spinning, either..."Clock-wise"...or..."Counter-Clock-wise/Anti-Clock-wise", depending on the "Engine's Manufacturer", as in, oh, let's say, a Chevy V-8, where the HEI Distributor's "Rotor", Spins in a "Clock-Wise" Rotation, and, an Oldsmobile V-8's, HEI Distributor's "Rotor", will Spin in a "Counter-Clock-Wise/Anti-Clock-Wise Direction, oh, and, Both are, as Viewed, from Above/on Top, of the HEI's Distributor Cap................................The reason, that I mentioned about the Rotor's Spinning/Revolving Direction, and possibly, there also might be a concern, with, maybe, Electrical "Polarity" Differences, in one form or another, as I read, some time ago, about, making sure, that, things like, an HEI Distributor's "Pick-Up Coil", is to, Install, the "Exact/Correct One", for the "Exact" HEI Distributor in question...!!!...or, Problems, may arise...Yikes...!!!..............................So then, Make sure, that, You ask about, Your, Exact HEI Distributor, and Everything Else, that makes up Your Engine's Ignition System, especially concerning, Any "Modifications", or any Added, After-Market, Ignition related Parts & Pieces, as that my Friend, will probably result, in the best outcome for You, and hopefully, save You some Money, at the very same time.............Good Luck, and.............Till next time............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
+RockysRoadshow , excuse me i didn't tell you the model of my hei. it's summitracing blue printed distributor m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-850001r and my engine is a small bloc 283 from 1967, i upgraded to the hei system... i think i fryied one tach, so now i am thinking on connecting one resistance to get a voltage decay un the tach output... and the 1000v are as you said when i turned on the engine...
+sergio litwiniuk Greetings sergio litwiniuk....I had a look-see around, for some information, about Tachs (Tachometers), and having them Connected to the HEI Distributor's "Tach" Terminal, and here, are some of the things..........................Some Brands/Manufacturer's "Tachs" (Tachometers), when connected to the HEI Distributor's "Tach" Terminal, might Require, what is known as a..."Tach Filter" (or possibly, in some cases, might be called a..."Tach Adapter"...???), Installed, "Between", the HEI's "Tach Terminal", and, the "Tach's...(Signal) Input Wire", and, basically, what the "Tach Filter" does, is, to "Filter-out/make less, any, High Electrical Signal Spikes, as well as, any, shall we say, Electrical Interference, that the HEI Distributor puts out, that can cause a Tach, that is not Specifically Designed, for the HEI Distributor's, "Tach Output Terminal's"...Quite High/Electrical Signal, to give/show, False RPM Readings (too High or too Low), or, maybe, Reads 0/Zero, or, maybe gets Stuck at one particular RPM, or, and I hope not, a Tach that got "Fried", and doesn't work any more, due to Not Having the "Exact", Required "Tach Filter" (or Tach Adapter...maybe...???), Installed, in that particular Electrical Circuit...!!!...Yikes...!!!.......................I had a look-see, at some Chevy, Electrical Schematics/Diagrams, and, I actually saw, one of those "Tach Filters" (in Schematic Form, that is), Installed/Placed, between the HEI's..."Tach Terminal" (connection point on the HEI's Distributor Cap), and, connected in "Series" (in line with), to the Wire, that was supposed to go to, the "Factory Installed" Tachometer's Input...................................So then, do a Search/ask around, and find out, whether, the "Tach", that You might be using some day, in Your Vehicle, "Needs the Specified/Correct...Tach Filter" (or not...???), for Your "Exact" HEI Distributor, in order to have the "Tach"..."Display Your Engine's, Correct RPM's", and also, to "Protect" the "Tach", from any "Damage" (if that be the case, that is), from, not only that 1,000 Volts, that You saw on Your Multi-Meter, but also, from any of those, Unwanted, HEI Distributor/Tach Terminal's "Overly-High, Electrical Output Signals" as well...................Good Luck, and..............Till next time, be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Antonio Rodolfo.........Thanks for watching........The number one thing, that will usually cause, an ignition control module to become damaged, is usually, that it "over-heats", because of, not applying, the "correct" heat sink (heat transferring) compound, onto, the bottom (metal side), of the ignition control module, before installing it.........A lot of people, will just use, die-electric grease, which..."is not"...the correct stuff, for the heat transfer to take place, between the bottom (metal side), of the ignition control module, and the aluminum pad, that is part of the HEI's main body, where it mounts onto.........I got my heat sink compound, at a computer store, and it's the cheaper stuff, that's about 10 dollars, for a small tube of it (note, some of the computer chip, heat sink compound, can be really expensive, just so Ya know).........The computer "chip", heat sink compound, is specifically made, for "heat transfer"...!!! (and that's why, it's the correct stuff to use, for this particular application)........Keep in mind, that, the ignition control module, gets quite hot, while in operation.........Make sure that, the bottom (metal side), of the ignition control module, and, the aluminum pad inside of the HEI distributor's body, where it mounts onto, is super clean, then, apply, a film of (computer chip), heat sink compound, to the bottom (metal side), of the ignition control module, and install it........Make sure that, those two metal eyelets (holes), that go through the ignition control module, and the two screws, that go through them, are super clean and shine-ee, as, the eyelets, and those two screws, are the electrical "ground", for the ignition control module (very important...!!!)..........Also, make sure that, you have the correct ignition coil, and, ignition control module, for your "exact" HEI distributor, as, there are different ones made, for each application........Good luck, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
I accidentally dropped my coil in oil I cleaned it best I could but the cooling fins still have oil in between themselves is this coil shot or will it be OK if I clean it with some carb cleaner?
Greetings...Ricky Ricardo..........Thanks for watching, oh, and...I think...that...I hear someone....calling for...Lucy...!!!...lol............Well, if it were my ignition coil, that was coated with oil, then, I would probably spray some..."Brake Cleaner"...all over it, a few times, and, let it drip off, of the ignition coil, so that, it would hopefully, take-away/remove, that unwanted oil with it, then, let it air dry............The..."Brake Cleaner" (sometimes called...Brake Clean), is usually, in a "spray can" (and, looks kinda like, a can of spray paint, somewhat), and, is, a very good liquid cleaner, that doesn't leave, very much/if any, residue behind, once it evaporates (dries), oh, and, it's usually quite safe, to spray on most automotive parts, without causing any damage, most times............The "Brake Cleaner" (clear, liquid spray), must be, very, very good, b-cuz, Ya can spray it directly on things, like, brake pad, or, brake shoe, "friction linings", as well as, brake rotors, and brake drums, and won't, degrade the brake lining's ability, to create the much needed friction, that's needed to get the vehicle stopped, properly & safely..............As for, "Carb (carburetor) Cleaner"..."DON'T"...use it, because, it's very harsh & potent, so much so, that, if using the "stuff", to clean carburetor parts, then, there are lots of "Warnings" out there, that recommend..."Not to"...soak (or coat), any..."rubber-like or plastic parts"...with "it"...!!!...Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...it's really, that..."STRONG"...!!!...........If the "Brake Cleaner" (trick...lol), doesn't work, then, a new ignition coil, it will probably be...........Good luck, and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...Mahmoud j. ……...Thanks for watching...…...About the only black part, that was, as you said..."was moving"...would probably be, those quite Big "numbers", that were being displayed, on the, shall we say, "window", at the top of, the yellow multi-meter...……..Those numbers, quite often, do change (move), to different numbers, usually, until they finally settle, most times, to a steady, and not moving/changing, displayed number (and usually, with a decimal point in there, somewhere, as well)…………If you saw something else, that was moving, that "was-not", the numbers, that were showing in the yellow multi-meter's window, then, just let me know, what it was, that you are talking about, thanks.....and...….till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
I tried your test using the same method. And primary showed 2.7 then when I swapped the 2 leads around it showed 5.7 then when I tested the high side it tested 7.83. so I'm assuming this is a bad coil according to my readings. So would this cause my spark to be orange when I do a spark plugs and spark test with no one spark plug?
Greetings...tobroke2007...……..Thanks for watching...…….Well, if your HEI (High Energy Ignition) Coil, is the same as, the one that you see in this video, then, here are the basics, if you will...…….Make sure that, your ohm-meter is set on the correct "range", as in, low ohms range, for the primary side (might be, from zero, to about 200 ohms on the ohm-meter), and, the high range, for the secondary side (up to, about 20-K/20,000 ohms, or 200-K/200,000 ohms), or maybe, you have an ohm-meter that adjusts itself automatically...???...………..I like to test these HEI coils, "without" the wires connected to the rest of the distributor, that way, there won't be anything else, being "included" in any of the ohm-readings...……...Connect the HEI coil's, 2 outer wires (low/primary side), to the ohm-meter, then, it will usually be showing "just over" Zero (but not Zero...!!!) ohms, up to, usually no more than about 1 ohm, on a factory/stock HEI coil...……….The high ohms side, is where the ohm-meter's leads, are connected to the wire in the middle (of the 3 of them), and the other lead, gets connected to that recessed steel part, that is in the side of the HEI coil's main body, and might be between, about, 6,000 and 30,000 ohms (ball-park figures only), so, try to find the "exact", ohms specifications, for the HEI ignition coil, that you want to test, just to be sure...…….If, by chance, you might have an after-market..."high performance"...HEI coil, then, try to get the ohms "specifications", for that "exact" HEI ignition coil, because, by just guessing, there's no way to be sure at all...……..An orange colored spark, sure sounds weak to me alright...…….A strong spark, as I recall should be blue-ish, or maybe white-ish in color, and, I usually hear a strong snapping sound as well, whenever the spark takes place, between the spark plug's 2 electrodes...…….Spark plug wires in good condition/not too old...???...…….Correct spark plugs for the engine, as well as, having the correct "Gap" measurement, between the spark plug's 2 electrodes...???...…….Battery showing about 14.5 volts, when the engine is running...???...and, are all wiring connections super clean, because sometimes, all it takes is, a poor, or bad wiring connection, to mess things up...……..Good luck, and...….till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@@RockysRoadshow ty bud I got it figured out. My meter was off by nearly 1 ohm after I subtracted that from my reading it was at .4 Ohm's. So coil is good.
Greetings...kudos_g................Thanks for watching..............Well, for something like, electrical components and wiring connectors, that are kept, in a somewhat clean and warm environment, then, from what I've experienced, most of the time, the Multi-meter's Probes, actually did make a good connection, and didn't interfere with the Ohms Readings, that I saw on my Multi-Meter, but, maybe, the Ohms/Resistance was showing Higher, than it actually was, and should be, due to, in some (hypothetical) cases, the Coating (extra resistance), that might have been covering, the Real (base) Metal, that's underneath that Coating...??? (interesting huh)................Now then, with all of the Ohm/Resistance Testing, that I have done, over the years, on something like, much Older Cars and Trucks, then, there were a few times, where I did have to "Scratch" the tip of the Probe, into the Surface, of some of the Part's Terminals or Connectors, that were...Oxidized...somewhat Greasy...and also, there were a few times, where I came across, what I like to call, the...Green Yuck-ees...as well...!!!..............Here's an interesting scenario for You.....Let's say for instance, that, You Ohms-Tested, a much Older, HEI Ignition Coil, that was in Cold/Damp Storage, for about 10 Years or more, and Your Ohm/Multi-Meter..."Did Not Display"...any Ohms/Resistance, when You Ohms-Tested it (Your way/no scratching)...now, You went out and purchased a New HEI Ignition Coil...but then, after You remembered, how I suggested, to Scratch those Probe Tips into the metal Surface, of those spade Connectors, in order to Make Sure, to get a Good Connection, to the Good (base) Metal, then, after Re-Ohms-Testing it, I then hear..."Holy-Gwalk-ah-Moly"...!!!...the Ohm Meter, was finally Showing, that, that Old, HEI Ignition Coil, actually Did Test, "With-in" the Manufacturer's "Specifications" after-all...!!!...and now, we have "2" Working HEI Ignition Coils, and, "1" of them, can be kept as a Spare...Yip-ee...!!!...lol...............Also, those HEI Ignition Coil, spade "Connectors", are only "Crimped Onto", the Wires (Not Soldered), and, I always keep that in mind, just in case, that "Crimped Connection", might Fail some day, and maybe, be the cause of, some, Not Wanted, "Extra" (ohms) Resistance, and, now that I've said my thing, I say.....till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
THIS is the SHORT version?!?! Good info, but it assumes the viewer knows English and how to breathe and not much more. Could have been reduced to about 45 seconds by just doing the measurements.
+Davesnothere Man ....Greetings Davesnothere Man....Thanks for watching.............Well, now that You mention it, I guess, that I could make, a, shall we say..."For Advanced...Car...Guys-n-Gals Only"...a...(very)..."Short, and to the Point"...RUclips Video...of my choosing alright, and Who knows, that might just happen some day, so, please stay tuned, and, make sure, that..."You Keep Breathing"...!!!...lol...(hmmmm...Ported or Manifold Vacuum...???)...and till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thanks for your video. You didn't mention what the readings would be if the coil was no good. When I connect the two colored outer wires I get .7 ohms. When I touch tie black ground and center spot under the rubber (like you did) I get nothing. Your verdict, please?
Greetings...sunking2001.........You're welcome, and, thanks for watching........For a Factory/Stock, HEI Ignition Coil, the Low Ohms reading, will probably be, about .5 Ohms (one half, of one Ohm), and, is, about Average.............As long as, the Ohms reading, is a bit, Above 0/Zero (Not 0/Zero...!!!), and, not more than, about 1/One Ohm, it should be good to go (You can also, look up the Specifications, for Your "Exact", HEI Ignition Coil as well, just to be sure)..............Is Your Ohm-Meter "Self-Calibrating", cuz, if not, then You really should see, what it Reads, while in the Low Ohms Range, while the 2 Ohm-Meter Probes, are touching each other, and if You see, something like, oh, .3 for example, then, that Number has to be Subtracted from, the Low Ohm Reading, that You saw on Your Ohm-meter, when You Tested the HEI Coil, otherwise, it won't be very Accurate at all.................As for the High Ohms Test, well, I already Answered Your Question, on the Other Video's Comment Section, and that Video is Titled...HEI Coil Test (Part 1), I think...???....and..........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
My OHM meter is self-calibrating Fluke 7-600. I Googled the numbers from the coil and came up with nothing. The numbers are in two rows: top row 101013...bottom row RA0510. My question...when I touch (secondary coil as you said) center black wire to the center spot (under the rubber ring) of the coil...the OHM meter doesn't do anything. It's like I'm not touching anything...no numbers, no beeping, no nothing. Would this indicate the coil being "no good, burnt out, fried, destroyed, or not? Where do I find info on this coil? The distributor I have is the same one at Summit Racing part # 850025. Thanks for your reply.
Greetings...sunking2001................"News Flash"...!!!...lol...oh, and, here's, that thar News................Heavens-to-Betsy...lol...when I looked up the "Specifications", for Your Fluke 7-600...here's what I found, seen, and are also thinikin' about, as to Why...???...Your Fluke Meter, "Would Not" give You, an Ohms Reading, for the HEI's, "High Ohms" Test...................Sorry, to be the Guy, that, has to be the Bearer, of some, not so good News, and now, that I've got Ur attention, that News, happens to be (Drum Roll please...lol)............Well, it appears, according to the "Specifications", that I saw, for Your Fluke 7-600, is, as follows..................The, shall we say, Ohms "Limit", that, You'll be able, to actually "Measure", with Your Fluke 7-600, is "Only 400 Ohms"...!!!...and I'll bet, that, that's the reason that, that Mr. Fluke, is "Not" able to give You, that, some-what, "Higher Ohms Reading", that's needed, to be able to Ohms-Test, Your HEI's, Secondary Side, that should be (as I probably mentioned before), and that, was about...3,000 to 20,000 Ohms, when Ohms Measuring/Testing, the middle black Wire, and the recessed metal part, that's on, the top/middle of the HEI Ignition Coil................So...it kinda looks, like, You might have to...Beg...Borrow, but Never Steal (lol), or maybe, even Buy, an Ohm-Meter (or, Multi-Meter), that's capable, of Measuring, much "Higher Ohms" (resistance) Test/Readings, than, that-of, the Fluke 7-600, that You have there now...................I'm thinkin', that, due to the Specifications, that I saw, for Your Fluke 7-600, leads me to believe, that, that particular Model, would be more suited to, being used around the House, and not so much, for Automotive use, well, it might come in handy, to measure Battery Voltage, or, something along the lines, or "Low" Ohms/Resistance, so, all is not lost, after-all...................If, and when-ever, You might, get ah-hold-of, an Ohm Meter (Multi-Meter), that can Measure/Test, "More", than, about 20,000 Ohms, there-abouts, and You do the Test again, on Your HEI Ignition Coil, You can let me know, how it turns out, well, if You care to, that is.......Good Luck.....and.......till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
They wasted my time enough with lying ass bs, like u get bridge weld certified u get 23.50 a hour, 9 dollars is far from that, Ipwen I move I move on, there is no commming back, ya ok u wasted my time with your hate, ya ok I will come back now, shhhhit does not work like that.
I wanted to blow my brains out.. too much yapping. . just about 60 percent is him talking about nothing 40 percent actually points out what needs to be done to check it. . flm..
Good video. Good explanation about the DVOM settings, many people do not understand the different settings and the decimal point. Thanks.
Greetings...hammer head...…...You're welcome, and thanks, for the nice comment, and for, watching too...…….The HEI (High Energy Ignition) coil's, higher/secondary ohm readings, aren't all that fussy, but, when it comes to, the low ohms/primary side, of the ignition coil, then, it's now, shall we say, "fussy time"...!!!...lol...…….Most of the factory/stock, HEI ignition coils, that I've messed with, usually had, a very low/primary ohms reading, of, between, "just over" Zero ohms (but not Zero ohms...!!!), up to, usually, no more than, about 1 ohm (.5 ohms, is a good possibility)...…….I also, ohms test (measure "it"), when, the ignition coil is disconnected from everything else, just to be sure...…….Best bet, is to use the exact ohms "specifications", for the exact ignition coil, that's being (ohms/resistance) tested...and...….till next time...……Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@@RockysRoadshowI had the exact same problem at my red wire. Broken..
I just subscribed, I’m a cattle farmer close to retirement and I’m trying to learn as much as I can about mechanical things as it always has been an interest to learn more and more …I will forward you moving forward thank you
A lot of good info there about coil diagnostics and volt/ohm meter ranges. I would also check for a short between the primary and secondary windings since that may also cause a no spark condition. Great video that I'd bet has helped plenty of folks!!
Greetings...breeha72..........Thanks for the nice comment, and for watching too............Yes-Sir-ee-Bob, I did leave out, that, shall we say, Short (ing) to Ground, as in, touching one of the meter's test probes, to the ignition coil's frame/laminations, but, I figured, that, any problem should (I hope), show-up, having the primary and secondary coil's Ohm-Reading/s, out of whack (so to speak)...........Gotta also keep in mind, to use the "Correct/Matched" ignition system (circuit) parts, for that particular HEI/High Energy Ignition system/circuit, cuz, I've seen pictures, where, a Stock carbon button/contact had too much Resistance, for a high performance application, and, it appeared that, that Stock/high resistance Carbon Button, got So Hot, that it Melted the Distributor Cap...Yikes...!!!............There are actually "Low Ohm" (resistance) carbon buttons available for sale, that should, shall we say, prevent that high ohms/resistance...bottle-neck/roadblock...from taking place (I hope)............Gotta, also watch-out for, high resistance/bad connections, as in, all wiring connectors (I prefer, soldered, wires to connectors, as opposed to, only being crimped)..............Then, there's that sheet metal Ground Strap, that only touches, the HEI ignition coil's Frame/Laminations (poor connection practice, especially when subjected to, the good ole, Sea-side/Salt-water environment).............Last, but not least, there are (times), where, a BIG distributor Cap, HEI distributor, gets stuck into a V-8 engine, that used to have, a good ole "Points and Condenser" distributor, in there before, and, the original wire, that went to, the usually oil filled ignition coil, gets connected to the HEI distributor's "Bat" (battery) connection point, that's near the top/and in, the HEI's BIG distributor cap...say what...???............Well now, a BIG distributor Cap HEI distributor, needs Full "Battery Voltage" (12 Volts, and a bit more, when the engine is running, and the charging system is in operation), BUT, that older Points and Condenser distributor, used much less Voltage, that went through the supply wire, to that, good ole, oil filled, type of ignition coil, and, the HEI Distributor, sure "Did-Not-Like-It" at all.............Gotta, Re-Wire, safely & properly, for Full Battery Voltage, to get to, the HEI's "Bat" connection point, on/in, that BIG distributor Cap, to make "it" Happy, as well as, make the Vehicle's Owner, Happy as well, and........till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
how do you check for the short between pri and sec?
Greetings...Dean Hauser...…...Thanks for watching, and sorry, for not replying earlier, as, I didn't see your question until now...……Shorts between the primary and secondary coil windings (of wire), to me, will usually be showing up as, one, or maybe both, Ohms Readings, being much lower than, the Ohms "specifications", for that exact HEI coil (could be, that, some of the coil windings shorted out/together, possibly)......….To check/test an HEI (High Energy Ignition) coil, while it is out of that Large distributor cap, for any "shorts", as in, an electrical short to ground, would be, to place (actually, scratch it in, really good, for a good connection!), with one of the Ohm Meter's test probes, on the outside, of the steel laminations (layers of thin sheet metal, that are sandwiched together), and, place the other probe, on one, of the 3 wires, that are not attached to anything, and, only do, one at a time, as well as, touch the moveable probe tip, to the recessed steel contact point, that's in the middle of the HEI ignition coil, where the carbon button's "spring" makes contact, and also, have the Ohm Meter, set to the highest scale/range, so, it will be much more sensitive, at finding even the smallest amount of, not wanted, shorting to an (electrical) ground problem...…...Even though, an ignition coil checks out on an ohm meter, then sometimes, an ignition coil might not work all that well, when it heats up to Operating Temperature...…...So then, if an ignition coil starts acting up, when it gets warmer, you'll know all about it, in case it ever happens, and, I hope not, and...….till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thank you for showing me how to test HEI coil , actually I tested it but I noticed one of the wires on the low side seemed to be arking so I repair it works like a champ awesome work you do .
Very good clear instruction on checking an HEI coil. Used this video to check my 1976 Chevy coil, it checked out OK as per video. Turns out I I needed a control module for my no-spark condition , saved me a lot of guess work and money.
I don’t have any spark and have never worked on an hei before so this is excellent. I have worked on lots of high voltage transformers and other things at the power company so I understand most everything. Thanks a lot. There was a ground strap missing in the new kit that connected the core to the middle black prong on the plug so I think that might be the problem. Thanks!
I hate checking coils I've tested them and they tested good at the time but in the end replacing them fixed the problem. 3k-30k is a huge range you'd think it would be much more narrowed. I'm still in the process of fixing an ignition problem. Intermittent cutting out at 1500rpm light load. Pull over go in store and drive no problems it's a head scratcher. My injection system is driver adjustable and I've ruled out a lean or rich condition. New dizzy cap rotor and wires. Waiting on FedEx to deliver a new modual but also wondering if my super coil is going bad never know at this point shit is getting old just want to enjoy my car.
Greetings...CIA Assassin..........Thanks for watching..........Well, here are one or two things, that might cause the symptom, that you described.........If the "ignition control module", is the type, that mounts on the inside, of an HEI/High Energy Ignition, LARGE Cap distributor, then, here Ya go (same applies to, ignition control modules, that need to transfer any excessive heat, sometimes, to air cooled, heat sink "fins") .........The "bottom/metal surface" of the ignition control module, and its aluminum "mounting pad", that's on top of, the distributor's aluminum body, have to be as clean as possible, and, a thin/smeared coating of..."Heat Sink"...specific...paste/grease-like compound (No..."not", Die-Electric grease...!!!), should be applied, only to the "bottom/metal part", of the ignition control module..........The reason for this, is that, the ignition control module "develops", quite a bit of "Heat", while in operation, and, the computer/type of, "Heat Sink" specific, paste/compound, does the best job, at "transferring", the ignition control module's" "Heat", into that distributor body's, aluminum "mounting pad"..........You can find the "Heat Sink" specific, paste/compound (usually sold, in a small squeeze tube), at a "computer store", that sells things like, mother-boards, sound & video boards, memory, etc........The Computer guys-n-gals, use this heat sink goop, on CPU's & GPU's, that develop a lot of heat, while in operation........Just buy the cheaper stuff, b-cuz, some of the high tech brands, can get quite expensive.........If applicable, also, make sure, that, those 2 holes/eyelets, that go through the ignition control module, and the 2 machine screws, that go through them, are as "clean" as possible, b-cuz, those items, are the electrical "Ground"...!!!..........Check all wiring "connections", and make sure, that, they are all, as Clean as possible..........Is your ignition coil's "Primary Ohms" (resistance), "specified", to get along with/match-up with, the "exact" ignition control module, that you are using...???...............Correct spark plugs, and, spark plug..."Gap"...???.............Some years ago, I had a Chevy 350 engine, with a points & condenser distributor, just go "Silent", and turn itself off, once it got, almost up-to operating temperature, but, just coast/pull over to the curb, and let it cool down for a few minutes, and then, the darn thing would start right up, and keep going, as if, there wasn't anything wrong at all...!!!..........After all of the (my) head scratchin', guess what was causing it...???..........Well, it turned out to be, that, the short spark plug Wire, that goes down into the oil filled, cylindrically shaped, ignition coil's high voltage Tower, had started to (high voltage) "Arc", between the metal clip/terminal, and the spark plug Wire's..."center/internal conductor", as in, the internal conductor, for some reason or other, wasn't "firmly crimped/connected" to the metal clip/terminal.........So, I figure, that, over quite a few miles, that "Gap", grew...larger...and...Larger...and...LARGER...until, it got to the point, where, the ignition coil, didn't have enough Guts/high voltage, to be able to "jump", such a LARGE Gap, when the engine warmed up, some-what (like I was sayin', always started-up, and ran good, but, "only when cold, or not very warm")...........If your ignition system is different, from what I was tellin' you about, then, if you care to, just let me know, all about, what you have there, and any of its problems as well, and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Great videos, do you have a video showing how to test a ignition module for 78 Chevy 350? Off the truck.
Excellent video. Thank you.
Great video! Helpful very helpful 👍👍👍
With key on should tach side of lead at hei distributor show 12v with engine not running? I keep blowing gauge fuse and I’ve got power on both sides of fuse with it pulled. I can keep from blowing fuse if I pull the tack lead. Thanks
My coil resistance from red to yellow wire fluctuates. Is this the sign of a bad coil? It's almost new and I just cleaned the connections. There is no oil or anything and I held them steady.
Greetings...I Bee Amazin.........Thanks for watching........Try this......Connect your meter's two probes together, to see if you get a steady reading, in case your meter is the culprit..........Also, if you manually select your ohms/resistance ranges, via a rotary dial, then, maybe try a different range, and see what happens........Re-measure your coil, while flexing the wires, in order to see if there is an intermittent connection, or perhaps, an internally broken wire (inside its insulation)..........I've never seen an ignition coil, cause a fluctuation like you're seeing, and, for me, it's usually, high, low, or none at all, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
According to Chilton and many other sources, you tested the secondary incorrectly. No where does it say to test the ground(black wire) to anything. The secondary resistance is the tach or batt terminal to the center button. That is the one that's supposed to be between 6k-30k. I saw someone mention that you can test batt and tach to ground to see if there is a short to ground, but there are no other tests to ground.
Greetings...Vengeance...……..Thanks for watching...…….Well, according to the picture, that I saw, that was in a "Wells" troubleshooting book, it was showing, to ohms test the "secondary side" of the HEI (High Energy Ignition) coil, while it was..."Removed"...!!!...from, the HEI's Large distributor cap, by connecting, one ohm meter probe, onto the "middle" wire, and the other probe, to that recessed metal contact point, that's about in the middle of the HEI coil's body (where the carbon button's "spring", make's contact, when it's installed)……….The HEI's "outer" two wires,were for testing the "primary" coil windings...…...There might be, an "internal" wiring connection, where-by, Ya can test the secondary coil of windings, while "including" the "primary" coil of windings, at the very same time, and, not really be aware, that, it's happening...!!!...say what...???...lol..…..Well, if ohms testing, the secondary side, on the "high ohms range", while the primary coil of windings, was present in that particular electrical circuit, then, that, primary coil's windings, being..."one ohm or less"...as I see it..."would-not"...be..."detected" at all, because of, the..."high ohms range"...that, the ohm meter was already set on...!!!...cool huh (I've done it lots of times, while ohm-ing, those, good ole, 1.5 ohm, cylindrically shaped/oil filled ignition coils, and, will probably be doing a few more, if need be...…...The "Wells", electrical automotive parts company, have probably been around, for about 100 years, there-abouts, and, are a well respected company, that, as I recall, supplied new vehicle manufacturers as well...……So, if Ya ever have your HEI ignition coil..."out-of-the-distributor cap"...do those ohms tests, like I've been doing, and see what ohms readings, that will be waiting for you, and...….till next time...…...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
the one thing you did not show was coil to coil test to see if there shorted which was the problem with mine ,The test showed good but they were shorted together
Greetings...edieken7...……..Thanks for watching...…….Yes, sometimes, things like that happen...…...I would then assume, that, you installed a different ignition coil, and then found, problem gone, and...…till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Muchas Gracias! Helped me tremendously in troubleshooting a PerTronix HEI system installed on a '38 Chevy Streetrod.
mark teague Greetings mark teague....Thanks for watching, and I'm glad, that this video of mine, was able to help You out somewhat....................................PerTronix HEI System, You say.......................................Seeing as how you have a 1938 Chevy Street-Rod, that has me Thinkin'...that I should say the following, just in case, it happens to apply in Your situation, maybe.........................................What happens, every now and again, is, a Person will Remove, that good ole "Points & Condenser" Factory/Distributor, and "Replace It", with a Brand Spankin' New..."HEI Distributor", and, might not be having a very Good Running Engine, after He or She did so..............................................If that be the case, what usually, will cause this scenario, is that, the "Ignition Coil" (usually the Cylindrically Shaped, Oil Filled Type), that is/was, part of the Original/Factory, "Points and Condenser" Distributor "System", has, what is called a "Ballast Resistor" (General Motors Vehicles, usually used a Special Resistance Wire, and sometimes, like the Other Vehicle Manufacturers, would also use the Ceramic Block Type), in its Ignition Wiring Circuit..........................................What this "Ballast Resistor" did, was to "Reduce the Vehicle's Battery Voltage"...to the..."Ignition Coil"...to Prevent the Ignition Coil from Burning-Out, as well as, somewhat Protecting the Breaker Points, as well..................................................Now then, what some Individuals did, when they Installed, that Nice New..."HEI Distributor"...or might even be a Used One, from an Auto-Wrecker/Used Parts Supplier, is to, just..."Connect"...that very..."Same Ballast Resistor Ignition Wire"...that use to Connect, to the "Cylindrically Shaped, Oil Filled Ignition Coil's Terminal", and, what just about any..."V-8---HEI Distributor"...Actually..."Needs", is..."Full" Vehicle "Battery Voltage", and "Not, that Reduced Voltage" that was Supplied, to the "Older Style of Ignition Coil", by the "Ballast Resistor", in that Older Ignition Wiring Circuit.....................................Or Simply Put....a "V-8-Style-HEI"...Distributor..."Needs Full Battery Voltage, Connected to the HEI's Distributor Cap's, Battery Terminal"...or..."It Just Won't Work Very Well at all".................................................If the Above, applies to Your particular situation, maybe, Check some of The "Website Forums", on the Internet, maybe along the lines of a "Hot Rod" one, for starters, and more, if needed, as there will be many People, that will have already made, the, shall we say..."Modification"...to Their Vehicle's..."Wiring"...as far as the "Ignition Wiring/Circuit" , that Leads to Their..."HEI Distributor Cap Terminal"...is concerned, and I say again, just to be sure..."Make Sure that Your "V-8 Type of ..."HEI Distributor"...is getting Supplied with..."Full Battery Voltage"...!!!..............................................Also, make sure, that You "Install the Correct", Gauge/Thickness, of Wire, and any Needed Fuses or Circuit Breakers, that are needed, to Conduct that Full Battery Voltage and Amperage as well"...and the Voltage, can be as "High" as about..."15 Volts"...when Your Vehicle's Charging System is Operating, any time, that Your Engine is Running as well...........................................................A simple way, to Check for the "Amount of Voltage", that is leading up to Your HEI's Distributor Cap is...................with the "Engine Cold, and Not Running"..."Disconnect the Wire that goes to the Battery Terminal, on Your HEI's Distributor Cap...then, hook up the Volt-Meter's test lead to that Wire, and the other test lead to Vehicle Ground (aka, chassis, frame/under-carriage)..........then, Turn Your "Ignition Key" (or whatever), to the "Run Position" (Not Starting Position...!!!)...and, with the Volt-Meter, You will be able, to actually "See", what Voltage, is Running through that particular Wire............................You should be Seeing..."12 or More Volts"....................................Once You have the Voltage Reading taken, just simply, Turn Off the Ignition Key (or what-ever), then Remove the Volt-Meter's Test Leads, and Re-Connect that Electrical Supply Wire, to the Correct, HEI, Distributor Cap "Terminal" ..........................................If it turns out, that Your HEI Distributor, is giving You any further headaches, just let me know, as much as You are able to, in a comment or two, under any of my RUclips Videos, and I'll do what I can, to help You out.................Good Luck, and...Till next time...............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thanks!
I pulled the ignition coil and checked the resistance of both the primary and secondary. They both appear to be ok. I think I got around 5 Ohms on the primary and maybe 7.5 k-Ohms on the secondary. PerTronix advertises a spec of 8.5 k-Ohms on the secondary coil of their "Flamethrower" branded HEI style ignition coils. So, I figure the 7.5 k-Ohms is reasonablly within spec given what their manufacturing tolerances probably are and the accuracy of my Ohm meter technique.
This '38 Chevrolet was a project car that my father enjoyed tinkering around on in his retirement. He passed away in August of 2009 leaving it to my mother who didn't want to part with it for sentimental reasons. It sat unmoved in our garage until the Spring of 2013 when my girlfriend's brother helped me to set the ignition timing and fire it up.
It ran fine (ignition wise) up until a few weeks ago. I start it up about once per month just to cycle the battery and distribute fluids through engine / transmission passageways, etc.
I tried to start it up about a week ago and it wasn't getting "fire." Probably just a loose connection somewhere in the ignition circuit. But, I thought I would rule out the coil before chasing wires and connections. It is a fairly neat wiring job. But, I didn't help my father with that aspect of it. So, I'm not sure what goes to what without following everything from end to end.
I did help install the pistons to the rod little ends with those spring type wrist pin keepers. :P
mark teague Greetings mark teague....You're welcome, and, I did have a look at that 1938 Chevy Hot-Rod Video............Sure is a nice lookin' Ride alright...but, I'm not all that sure, about the Music, that I heard in that very video!...lol...well, I guess it wasn't all that bad...but, maybe a song, somthin' like..."Bad to the Bone"...perhaps, could go quite well, with that particular video, don't-cha-think?.......................I saw, that You were sayin', about getting "5-Ohms" on Your Primary Coil Reading, which to me, looks kind of "Suspect", as, most of the "HEI" type of Ignition Coils, that I've taken a "Primary Coil" Reading of, happen to be..."A Little bit above Zero Ohms" (but, Not Zero Ohms), and pretty much "Under 1 Ohm" as well...!!!...and, even most of the older, oil filled type of ignition coils, Primary Coil Readings, were much less the "5-Ohms" as well....................................Perhaps, You might have left the "Decimal Point", just in front of that "5" out maybe...???........................................Please, "Check the Primary and Secondary" Ohms Specifications, for Your "Exact" Ignition Coil, just to be Sure, just in case...................................Also, in order to get a "True & Accurate"..."Ohms/Resistance"...Reading/Readings...then, the "Wiring"...that is "Connected", to the "Ignition Coil's"..."Terminals"...should be "Removed"...or...the "Ohm Readings", just might "Include", some of the..."Ignition Wiring Circuit, and/or Components..."Resistance Values"...as well...!!!...just sayin'...............................................................Also, the "Distributor", that is Installed in Your Engine, is "It"really, a "Coil-in-the-Top-of-the-Distributor-Cap", Type of HEI Distributor, or is the "Ignition Coil"..."Mounted Remotely" (aka, separate, from the actual Distributor) by chance...???.............................................Also, if "It" is a Real-Genuine, HEI, type of Distributor, did You happen to take those "Ohm/Resistance" Readings, while the Ignition Coil, was still Mounted in the Distributor Cap, as that alone, has the ability to somewhat alter the Secondary Coil's Ohm Readings, considering that, that very Reading is taken Through the Carbon Button/Resistor as well..............................................Hmmmmm........might not be an "Ignition Related" problem, that's keeping the Engine, from going..."Va-Room"...as, sometimes, it could be..."Fuel System Related"......................................Try the following................With "Engine Cold, and Not Running"..........Remove the Air Cleaner Housing or Air Filter, what-ever-it-is, and, with a small squirt bottle, with some gasoline in it, just squirt about a Table-Spoon full of gasoline, into each of the Carburetors Bores.............then Re-Install the Air Cleaner Housing/Filter, what-ever-that's on top of the Carburetor, just in case the Engine Back-Fires.............then, try to Start the Engine......................If the Engine "Fires-Up", for a very Short time, and actually Sounds, like it really wants to Start, then, I'd be inclined to be thinkin', that it, just might be, like I was sayin', just a short time ago...a..."Fuel System Related Problem", after all.........................................Does sound kinda weird, that the Engine Ran OK, for quite some time, then...Oh-No...Engine-She-No-Go...and...What's-a-Happenin'-Now...???............................................Well, I still don't know,..."What Engine"...You are dealing with...???.......................................It's up to You, if You want to try and "Prime the Carburetor with a few Squirts of Gasoline", and, If You do, probably be a good idea, to have a "Fire Extinguisher" nearby, just in case, somethin' goes wrong...(I never had a problem, as long as I Re-Installed the Air Cleaner Housing, with the Air Filter/Element/Cartridge in "It", before I started any Engine, using the good ole, gasoline, squirt bottle routine)...................................It's good to know, that You really did, do some work, on that Car alright, as that alone, will always make, for some very heart-felt Memories.........................................................................So then, if You care to, keep me in the Loop, so to speak, and I'll do what-ever I can, to help You out, if need be......................Good Luck, with that 38-Chevy..............Till next time............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
PerTronix Tech Support seemed to think that the ignition module inside the distributor is bad. So, I pulled that today and am going to swap with one from another HEI distributor we have laying around. Apparently, their street model unit with vacuum advance is pretty much an OEM style replacement and parts are interchangeable.
mark teague Greetings mark teague....Let the real fun begin, as in...tryin' to track down the Culprit/Gremlin, that just might be causing that "No Spark" situation, that You are experiencing, on that "38-Chevy-Streetrod".............................................In order to save Time &/or Money, when "Diagnosing", any "Vehicle Related Problem", it's almost a No-Brainer, that, much like Tryin' to..."Win"...the..."Super Bowl"..."Stanley Cup"...or even..."Olympic Gold"...for that matter, would, as I, and probably many Others as well, would see it, would to, probably be Thinkin' along the lines, of having a, shall we say..."Game Plan"...or, If..."No Game Plan"...the..."Result"...of the..."End Game"...as in..."Winning"...that..."Trophy"...as far as the..."Sports Team or Athlete"...is concerned, see's it, will probably..."Not be Achievable"...!!!........................................Some Window Dressing that was...huh?...lol................................................All-righty then, just like, I was just eluding to, as in, having a "Game Plan", will usually, like I was sayin', will most likely be...Saving Time & Money, and will, as I see it, make for a lot Less, Headaches and Frustration, if You, Others, or I, were to Follow, that there..."Bread Crumb Trail"...some-what, in an..."Orderly Manner"....................................First off, did You..."Actually Verify"...that You were Getting that..."12 Volts or More"...from the..."Ignition Supply Wire"...that..."Connects to the HEI's Distributor Cap Terminal", with the Engine Cold, and "Not Running", and having the Ignition Key (or what-ever), in the Run Position (Not Start Position)...???................................................You see my Friend, always Start at the "Beginning", of that there "Bread Crumb Trail", in order to "Eliminate" any of the "Suspects", if You will................................................Did You try, like I was sayin', in my Other Comment/Reply to You, to "Prime the Carburetor, with a Squirt or Two, of Gasoline", to see if the Engine, would at least "Try to Fire/Start Running"...???.........................................If You don't actually "Verify", those..."Two Things"...and start, Replacing/Substituting Parts & Pieces, You'll just be wasting "Time", and maybe "Money" as well (Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...I've...Been There...Done That...and....Wasted Time & Money Too...!!!...way back when).........................You could even go and Purchase/Buy a "Spark Tester", for an HEI Application (kinda looks like a glorified Spark Plug, with a rather Large Gap, that, once connected, will be Showing a nice Strong Spark, or, maybe None at all, when the HEI-Unit is Operating, and being Tested, oh, and, if You do...Read the Instructions...!!!...lol).............................................For "Stock Engines", in Vehicle's, Driven on the Street, which never "Red Line" (on the Tach/Tachometer), above, oh, lets say..."5500 RPM's"...I just use the "Factory Stock HEI-Unit", and they Worked just fine..............................................But, "Things Change", when-ever the Tach's "Red Line" starts getting in the "6,000 RPM's and Higher", along with..."High Compression/Race Type Engines"...and that's usually, where the "Aftermarket/Racing & High Performance Companies" out there, come in..................................Now then, about Your HEI's..."Ignition Control Module", or just Module, if You like...................................Ever had a "Static Electricity/Electrical Shock"...???...................You know, when You happen to touch a door-knob, and You get "Zapped"......................Well, if any "Static Electricity", that You may have Stored-Up, that inadvertently get "Discharged" into Your HEI's "Ignition Module"(usually through the Pins/Terminals, on either end of the Module), and just about Any other, shall we say "Electronic Chip" out there, once that, poor ole..."Electronic Chip"...Receives that, very potent, Static Electrical Charge, that happens to have the Potential, to make, just about "Any" Electronic Chip"..."Fry", as in, to start "Malfunctioning, or Not Work at all"...!!!.....................When-ever I'm in near Proximity, to Any "Electronic Chip", I, at regular Time intervals, make sure, that I touch, a cool, not moving, Metal Object, in order to "Discharge" Any Static Electricity, that I might be, shall we say "Hosting", to make sure, that I'm not the Guy, who destroyed that Electronic Chip!............................Also, when-ever an "Ignition Module", gets "Mounted/Installed", the Bottom/Base, of the Ignition Module, and the Mounting Surface, of the HEI, that the Ignition Module Mounts On (inside the HEI's, usually Aluminum Housing/Body), has to be Super Clean, and Smooth, and also, has to have, some of that "Heat Transfer Paste/Goop"..."Applied to the Bottom" (usually Metal plate/part), of the "Ignition Module", to facilitate, the "Transfer of the Heat", that the Ignition Module "Generates", when "It" is "Operating"...or, If..."Not Enough Heat Gets Transferred"...the..."Ignition Module"...will probably..."Over Heat/Fry/go Poof"...and...end of story!.........................So, there You have it, well, for now that is........................I'll be around here somewhere, if You need any more help, at all......................Till next time.............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
I would like to know if the "ground" wire (the loop) is connected to one of the primary leads internally, giving --the equivalent of-- a "3-wire coil" as in the other coils with the HV tower. I have use for this, as I can determine if the coils are wound in the same direction, thus allowing me to get a slightly HIGHER voltage as opposed to a slightly LOWER voltage when using the coils in various experiments.
On the 3-wire coils, do you know if the internal secondary connection is connected to the primary "+" or "-"? This would be of GREAT help. Also, if,say, looking down on the HV tower, In which direction are the coils wound??
THANKS MUCH,
--daLE
Greetings...dale nassar………..Thanks for watching...……..Well, according to my ohm-meter readings, there "is not" an internal connection at all.……...Basically, there's two separate coil windings, and usually, the primary (low voltage) windings, are a thicker/larger diameter, when being compared to, the much smaller gauge/diameter of the secondary windings...……The primary coil's leads, are on the outside, having the ground wire, between the two of them, which is connected to one end of the secondary coil, and the secondary's other end, is that steel recessed contact point, that's on one side of the coil's body, where the spring end, of the carbon/resistor makes contact, when all parts & pieces are installed in the distributor cap...……..I've never cut an HEI coil apart, so, I don't know, which direction that each of the coils are wound, be it, clockwise, or counter-clockwise...……..Basically, it's usually, the primary to secondary "turns ratio", that will determine the voltage "step-up" amount, as in, there might be 100 turns of secondary coil windings, for every 1 turn, of primary coil windings, as an example...……..The automotive type of ignition coil, usually only gets saturated (charged-up), on the primary coil, for a very, very short time, usually measured in milli-seconds, before secondary discharge takes place, so, to avoid having the ignition coil over-heat and destroy itself, Ya might want to keep that in mind...……..Be very careful, around "high voltage" electricity, or maybe, a stun-gun-like experience, it might very well be...!!!...(and I hope not), and...…..till next time......Be (extra) Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Great video man, you helped me fix my car! Thank you
Greetings...ollehwo...........You're welcome, and, thanks for watching, and thanks for, the great comment as well..........It's good to hear, that, this video of mine, was able to help you out, and...git-er-fixed............If, and when-ever, you might be installing, a new (or used) "ignition control module", on/in, your HEI (High Energy Ignition) Distributor, make sure to use the "correct"..."thermal" (heat transferring) paste, as in, the same stuff, that the computer guys & gals use (and, not to use "die-electric" grease...!!!), because, it will usually be, the, "too much heat build-up", inside of the ignition control module, that will fry it/destroy it...!!!.............The "2-screws", that, go through the ignition control module, that secure it/mount it, are also, the electrical "ground" (for the module), so, make sure that, they are super clean, as well as, the 2 metal lined holes, that those 2 screws go through, have to be super clean too.............Also, always make sure that, all of the "electrical connections", are clean and dry, to help avoid, any, not wanted problems, and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
This is a auto transformer this a DC resistance test not suitable for test you can have shorted turns in the transformer and will not be found in this test . You need to test the impedance
is higher better then lower?
On the low reading what if it reads 000? Does that mean its a bad coil? The secondary is 7.22
Greetings ss396rat....Thanks for watching, and commenting on this video of mine....There are a few things that can be causing Your Reading of "000", Showing on Your Ohm/Multimeter....First thing is, was that HEI Ignition Coil of Yours "Working" alright, "Before" You Tested it for Ohm's Readings?....If Your Ohm/Multimeter is comparable to the Yellow Digital One that You see in this Video of mine, did You "Make Sure" that You were "Using the Correct "Range", for each of the HEI Coils Readings....In this Video, when I Measured the "Primary" Side of the HEI Coil, I had my Ohm/Multimeter "Range" set on the "Lowest Range", which is..."0" to "200" Ohm's....For the HEI Coil's "Secondary" Side, I just selected a much "Higher" Range, that would show me the Best Read-Out for that Much Larger Ohm Reading.
Try this...Select the "Lowest" Ohm's Range on Your Ohm/Multimeter, and Touch/Connect the "2" Test Leads/Probes to each other.
Did You see a Reading of some kind?
On my Yellow Ohm/Multimeter, when Touching/Connecting my Test Leads/Probes Together, and, the "Lowest" Ohm's Range is Selected, my Readout is Showing ".3" Ohm's, and that is telling me, that it appears to be working OK, on the Lowest Range, with that ".3" Ohm's telling me, that, there happens to be, ".3" Ohm's of Resistance, that is caused by the Test Lead Wires, and probably my Yellow Ohm/Multimeters "Miss-Calibration" added in, as well.
If You did, in fact, get some sort of Reading on Your Meter, when just touching the "2" Test Leads together, try "Re-Testing" the "Primary" Side of Your HEI Coil, to see if You can get some sort of Ohm's reading on that Meter of Yours.
Then there's this Scenario...If Your Meter is working, as it should, and "Set" on the "Lowest" Range, and You still get "000" Ohm's Showing on Your Meters Display, while testing the HEI Coil's "Primary" side, then there is the chance, that Your HEI's "Primary" Windings are "Bad", or, there is a Problem with Your Meter.
Now, about the "7.22" Ohm's Reading that You saw on Your Meters Display, has me thinking that it should really be "7,220" Ohm's for the Secondary Windings in Your HEI Coil, due to the way in which it Displays Numbers and the Decimal Point, probably, because of the much Higher Range, that You may have Selected on Your Test Meter.
Specifications of about...3,000 to 20,000 Ohm's for the "Secondary" Side of Your HEI Coil should be OK.
If Your "7.22" Reading is Actually "7,220", then, Your HEI's Coil "Secondary" Windings should be OK.
Depending on where a Person finds the Ohm's Specifications for Any Ignition Coil, the actual Ohm's Value can Vary somewhat.
On the HEI's Primary reading, there should be a quite "Low" Ohm's Reading, showing on Your Meter, but, it Should-Not be Showing "000"...!!!
Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
RockysRoadshow thanks for the quick reply. I was driving my nova and melted a plug wire and the car shut off. Immediately I knew it was either the ignition box or coil, tested the coil exactly how you did in video with a brand new multimeter. 000 reading. Gonna get a coil today
Checking online, there's a range of ohms' where it's still good. But just curious is higher or lower ohms better?
Lower causes a bigger spark but risks burning out the module, higher causes a weaker spark. I try to use non resistor spark plugs and wires to push the odds in my favor. The spark plug wires are not recommended by the factory to be non resistor by the way, mainly for reasons of making static on radios.
It does not matter wat a industry needs or don’t , my life does not revolve of wat the millionaire needs, the rich want a free market, but not for the poor.
I get 1905 when I check the contact point in the center and 125 on the wire to wire--is that to low ---I get no spark to the pluges good video
***** Greetings phil ladd....Thanks for watching, and for Your nice comment as well...........................There is One..."Very Important Thing"...to Check for..."First"...to avoid, having to go on, what, might very well become..."A Wild Good Chase"...!!!...lol...........Here's the deal.............Your HEI Distributor, has to have Battery Voltage/12 Volts there-abouts, Supplied to it, so it will Work Correctly, and as it should........................With Your Engine..."Cold and Not Running"...Remove that Red or Pink, Singe Wire, with the Connector on it, from Your HEI/High Energy Ignition...Distributor Cap..........then, Select Your Multi-Meter's Selector, at about the 20 Volt Range...........then, Hook Your Multi-Meter's "Red" test lead, to that Wire's Connector, that You just removed, from the Distributor Cap.........and, Connect, the Black test lead, to a good Ground Source...........then, Place Your Ignition Key, in the..."RUN"..."NOT START"...Position, and, You should be seeing about 12 Volts, showing on Your Multi-Meter's readout.......................If Not, then, You have probably Found the Reason, as to Why, Your, Spark Plugs, aren't Sparkin'................................If You are getting about 12 Volts, then, at least You know, that, Your HEI Distributor is getting the Proper Voltage, to start with.....................................That 1905, and that 125, that You were saying, that You had there, did You happen to Notice any "Decimal Points", in those two Readouts, at all...???...and, also, did You Notice, "What...Scale/Range", that You Selected on Your Multi-Meter...for "Both of those Tests"...???......................................If that 1905, actually is...19,000 Ohms, for the HEI's, Secondary, Coil Windings, then, that should be ok/alright, as, some Specifications, that I have seen, Specifies...3,000 to 20,000 Ohms...............The HEI's, Primary, Coil Windings, as far as I recall, should be, Between, just "Over"...0/Zero Ohms, to, no more then, about...1 Ohm...for Factory/Stock...HEI Ignition Coils................................That 125, on the wire to wire, that You mentioned, "Not Having", the Decimal Point, and, the Range/Scale, that You Used, on Your Multi-Meter, at the time, is really Miss-Leading, and, perhaps, "Do the Ohms Tests Again", and, make sure that, You pay attention, to, both, "Where the Decimal Point is"...as well as..."Which, Range/Scale", that You have..."Selected"..on Your Multi-Meter, that way, I will see, "With Accuracy", those Two/2 Ohms Readings, for Your HEI Ignition Coil...thanks.....................................Also, Watch out for..."Corrosion/Dirt/Green Stuff"...on, Both, the "3 Spade Terminals", on the Outside, near the Top, of Your HEI's Distributor Cap, where that (usually) 3 Wire Connecter..."Connects to"...as, I have seen, some..."Green-Stuff"...and..."Rust-like Corrosion"..."Growing"...there...!!!...Yikes...!!!..............So, "Check" the Things, that I mentioned above, and, if You care to, You can let me know, how Ur makin' out..................Good Luck, and.............Till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
RockysRoads
So you started of this video testing the red and yellow wire with the ohms meter setting but didnt say what setting the ohms side? Was it 200Ω , 2kΩ or 20kΩ ???? If you did the 200 my coil read = 1.1 ? 2kΩ = 0.001 ? 20kΩ = 0.00 ? 200kΩ =0.00
Greetings...Vintage Moparnut1978.........Thanks for watching........The outer two wires, are for the primary winding, and, on a factory/stock, HEI ignition coil, the highest reading should be about 1 ohm.........The lowest reading should be, just "above" 0 (zero) ohms, but "not" zero ohms........Typically, from .1 ohms, to about 1 ohm.........So then, the "lowest" range on the ohm/multi-meter, is the correct range to use........On my yellow multi-meter, that you see in this RUclips video, then, 200 ohms, happens to be the lowest ohms range that I can select.........I usually see about .5 ohms (one half, of one ohm), on the primary side of an HEI ignition coil........At 1.1 ohms, on the 200 ohms range, then, your primary winding is probably ok...but..."re-check" your HEI ignition coil..."after"...doing the following...!!!.........When you are ohms-measuring, such a low amount of ohms, then, you have to account for, the amount of resistance (ohms), that is in your ohm-meter's, or multi-meter's test leads/probes, unless you happen to have a meter, that can "Calibrate", exactly at zero ohms...!!!........Try this...set you meter to the lowest ohms range (200 ohms?)...then...touch the two test (leads) probe tips together...see what ohms appear (if any), on your meter's display screen...if there is something showing up, then, you have to subtract this reading, from the ohms-reading, that you see, when actually ohms-testing the (low ohms) primary side, of your HEI ignition coil, in order to get, an "accurate", ohms test/measurement........I get .3 ohms, when I touch my yellow multi-meter's probe tips together, while the ohms-range is set to 200 ohms........Let's say for example, that, I see .8 ohms, while testing an HEI ignition coil.........So, all I have to do now, is to, do some simple math, as in (.8 ohms minus .3 ohms) which will equal .5 ohms, which is accurate, for my yellow multi-meter.........Ya don't need to do this, whenever measuring the secondary coil, that's inside of an HEI ignition coil, because the ohms range, will usually be, in the "thousands" of ohms, and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
what brand dmm You use?
This is the short version? Lol
No entiendo usted esta hablando de una bobina y de repente habla de casas y hogares . Me gustaria que nos aclarara eso . Muchas gracias .
I have one for ya.
1972 Cutless Supreme. 350 Rocker Motor.
Original eng (point type distrib) had a rod knock which destroyed the inside of the block.
Bought another engine (1975) from E-bay, HEI system.
Started it on the ground, ran like crap. No compression, but it ran.
Had the engine rebuilt at a local machine shop for less money than it would've cost me to build it. .030 over, new cam, crank ground, etc.
Installed the engine. Put her up on TDC, dropped in the same distrib,(New cap, rotor, coil, wires) went to start it and NOTHING.
No spark whatsoever.
Instead of going through the ignition switch I "hot wired" it direct (as I did on the ground). NOTHING. Removed the coil cover and using a test light I confirmed I was getting power.
Removed the coild and noticed on the bottom it was totally pained where the ground strap is. Took some 220 grit sandpaper and cleaned it off under and over. reinstalled the coil and NOTHING.
Removed the coil and checked as per your demonstration, coil checks out, still nothing.
I don't understand how it ran with all the old crap (cap, rotor, wires, coil), but won't run with all new stuff in it.
Cap checks out, coil checks out, rotor's, wires all new. Is it probable the ICM went byby just sitting around?
Greetings...Mike Paul............Thanks for watching............Here's what I'll do for Ya............I will Reply to Your Comment/Question, with a number of shorter (some-what) Replies, so, be on the look-out for them..............Here's the first one...........The LARGE (distributor) Cap, V-8 HEI/High Energy Ignition Distributor..."Needs"...about 12 Volts (aka, battery voltage), so "it" will work correctly (battery voltage, might drop down to about 9 Volts, maybe, while the starter motor is in operation, and, battery voltage, can be higher than 12 Volts, when the engine is running, and the charging system is working, providing that, any, electricity sucking accessories, such as, something like, the heater blower motor, head lights, etc., are not turned on at the time)..................Lem-me-see-now.........A 1972 Olds/Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, should have had, a "Points and Condenser" Distributor, in that 350 cubic inch (probably Gold colored) Rocket, V-8 Engine, as it left the factory's assembly line, when it was brand new...............In the "Points and Condenser", ignition system's "Wiring Circuit", there is usually a "Ballast Resistor", that Reduced the Amps/Current, that was going to the Ignition Coil, so it wouldn't Overheat, and self destruct, while the Ignition Switch, was in the "Run" (only) Position, and also, the Voltage was "Lower" than 12 Volts as well, (voltage drop), and might end up being, about, 6 to 9 Volts, going to the ignition coil...maybe (I'll have to measure it sometime)................There were "2" Types of Ballast Resistors, and, could be, in the form of, a..."Resistance Wire" (1.35 Ohms/resistance maybe...???...for a General Motors V-8, points and condenser system)...or, might be, in the form of, a..."Ceramic looking/white-ish colored Block"................With the "Points and Condenser" Distributor, ignition system, while the Starter Motor was Operating, the Amp Draw, might be around 200 Amps, give or take a bit, and the Voltage would probably, drop down to, about 9 Volts there-abouts, so, there was usually, Only about, 9 Volts, that the Battery could output, to the Ignition Coil, when-ever the Starter Motor was working.............So, there was a "Separate Wire", that "Bypassed", the "Ballast Resistor", so, what-ever the Voltage, that the Battery had left-over, from what the Starter Motor was drawing, went straight to the Ignition Coil, while the Ignition Switch was in the "Start" Position..................When the Engine Started, and the Ignition Switch, then went, to the "Run" Position, then, the Wiring Circuit, Switched Over, to the Circuit, that had the "Ballast Resistor" in it, cuz, the Starter Motor, wasn't in Operation any more, and the Amps and Volts, became Higher, and available, once again.................Now then, if, and when-ever, shall we say, "Up-Grading", from the good ole "Points and Condenser" Distributor...to that..."LARGE...HEI Distributor"...then, that, Old Wiring Circuit, that had, that "Ballast Resistor" in it, has to be "By-Passed", so the HEI Distributor, gets "Full" (available) "Battery Voltage", while having the...Ignition Switch, in "BOTH", the..."Start" and "Run" positions.............If and when-ever, up-grading, to that by-pass wiring, make sure, to use, some Heavy Gauge/Thick, well insulated Wire, and if need be, put the correct Amp rated Fuse, in that wiring circuit as well, so nothing burns up...!!!...............There might be a Website or two, that have "Forums" on them, where-by, some of the Folks, have already, Safely, and have Properly done, this, so-called, Ignition Circuit, "Ballast Resistor"..."By-Pass" wiring, as, I haven't needed, to do it, as of Yet...............So, with the LARGE Cap, HEI/High Energy Ignition Distributor, always make sure, that Full (available) Battery Voltage, gets Connected to, the "BATT" Terminal, that's near, the Top of, that LARGE, HEI Distributor's (distributor) Cap...!!!............the End, of this post...and now, onto another one...
Greetings...Mike Paul............Now, for some more, HEI Distributor stuff.............This post, is going to be about, "Testing", the "Pickup Coil", for both, "Ohms/Resistance", and "Low, AC (Alternating Current) Volts Output", while still having, Your, LARGE Cap, HEI Distributor, still stuck in the Engine, or, You can also do these Tests, with the HEI Distributor, out of the Engine, as well..............Before I get to that, I just remembered something.............There were times, where an Olds (Oldsmobile) Car, might have had, a Chevy (Chevrolet) V-8 Engine in it, when it was New, right off of, the Factory/Assembly Line...interesting that, I must say (maybe check it out, if You do in fact, have, an actual, 1975 Olds, replacement Engine...sometime/maybe)................Ok then, having the Engine, Cold and Not Running, remove the (supposedly) 12 Volt supply Wire/Connector, from the "BATT" Terminal, of Your HEI Distributor's Cap, and put it safely aside, and remove the distributor Cap, to gain access to, the Pickup Coil's wiring Connector...............Here's what I always do, "before", touching anything, with my hand, that resembles an Electronic Chip, or comparable Electronic Circuit, so I don't "Zap" it, and Destroy it, with any, High Voltage/Static Electricity, that I might have stored up in me, at the time..............I just Touch, with my Hand, every few minutes, a cold and not moving Metal Part, so as to, Drain, any built-up Static Electricity, that I might have stored up inside myself, so as, Not to "Discharge", that potentially, High Voltage, Static Electricity, "into" any Sensitive, Electronic Chip or Circuit, such as, the Ignition Control Module (Static Electricity, it's the same stuff, that "Zaps" You, when You touch a door-knob...!!!).......So, once You're Discharged, then, remove the Pickup Coil's Connector, from the Ignition Control Module (is Yours, the basic, "4-Pin, Type-of, Ignition Control Module, or, maybe, it's a 5-Pin...???)..................Then, just connect the Ohm-Meter's 2 Probes, to the Pickup Coil's Connector, and, while Moving/Wiggling, those 2 Wires (in case the wires, have a Break, of some kind, inside the insulation, where You can't see it), and, it should have a Resistance, of, about...500 to 1500 Ohms...but, to be sure, look up the Specifications, for Your "Exact", HEI Distributor (there should be some Numbers, and/or, maybe Letters, that are stamped into, the HEI Distributor's Aluminum Body, on the Outside of it, on its Largest Diameter, just below, where the (distributor) Cap sits, when it's installed, onto, the HEI Distributor's Aluminum Body..................Now, for the Low Volts, AC/Alternating Current "Test"...............While the (distributor) Cap, is still Off, then, the HEI Distributor's Shaft, has to be Spinning, in order to do this particular test..................If doing this test, while having the HEI Distributor, installed in the Engine, make sure that, the Advance Weights, and nothing Below them, comes in Contact with the Pickup Coil's Wiring and Connector, or anything else, and keep everything Clear, of the Spinning Advance Weights, and the distributor Shaft, and any of its spinning parts as well..............You'll need a Multi-Meter, capable of, measuring..."Low AC/Alternating Current...Volts"....................Now then, having the Multi-Meter's Probes, connected to the Pickup Coil's Connector, and the Multi-Meter, set to, the Low AC-Volts range, then, just Crank the Engine over, with the starter motor, or, if, the HEI Distributor, is "Out" of the Engine, then, just, Spin by Hand, as fast as You can, the Helical Gear ("Watch out for any, Sharp gear Teeth"...!!!), that's on the end of the HEI Distributor's Shaft, and then, just watch, the Multi-Meter, for any, "Low AC Volts", that are showing (or not?), on, the Multi-Meter's Display................If it's working, as it should be, You should be seeing, about...1 Volt AC (Alternating Current)...give or take a bit.................So then, if either, the Ohms/resistance Test, or the, Low AC Volts Test..."Don't Test"...as they should be doing, then, the Pickup Coil, is probably Faulty then.................The Pickup Coil/Pole Plate Assembly, is, shall we say, the..."Trigger"...that Triggers, the Ignition Control Module................When those 2 sets of, 8-Triangles, are about lining up, then, that AC, low voltage Signal, gets sent to the Ignition Control Module, and then, the ignition control module (on the 4-Pin type), basically, just, Switches the Ground circuit, to the "Off" position, electronically speaking, that is, and that's when the Ignition Coil's, Electrical Field, that has already been built-up, with-in itself, Collapses, and when it does, the result is, a rather impressive, Very High Voltage release, and onto, the rest of the secondary, high voltage circuit, it goes, until it terminates, at the spark plug's gap, hopefully, that is...............The End......more to come......later, in time...
Greetings...Mike Paul.............Now then, here's some information, on the BIG distributor Cap/V-8, HEI's..."Ignition Control Module".................If, and when-ever, "installing", an ICM (Ignition Control Module), onto, the Mounting Surface, that's, on the inside, of the HEI distributor, then, make sure, that, the "Mounting Surface", that's on, the backside (metal surface), of the Ignition Control Module, and also, where it "Mounts", inside of, the HEI Distributor, are "Nice-n-Clean", and also, it's..."Very Important"...to..."Apply/Smear"...some..."Heat Sink/Heat Transferring Specific"...Paste-like stuff ("Not"...that...Die-Electric Grease-like stuff...!!!), on the backside, (metal surface), of the Ignition Control Module, "Before" Mounting "it", cuz, if You don't, then, that poor ole "Module", won't be able to "Transfer", that, quite a Lot of "Heat", that it generates, when it's working, to the Aluminum Mounting Pad, of the HEI Distributor's Body...!!! (Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...the HEI's Aluminum Body, also becomes a "Heat Sink", in near proximity, to where, the Ignition Control Module is Mounted...cool huh)...............Radio Shack, is known, to have that "Heat Sink" (Heat Transferring) goop, in a small squeeze Tube, as well as, some Computer Folks, might be using, that rather expensive stuff, known as Arctic Silver, and, there's probably, even more Products, that are out there as well, as long as, they are capable of, "Transferring", that Not Wanted "Heat"...............Those.."2-Metal-Eye-Let/Holes"...that go through, the Ignition Control Module, are actually, the..."Electrical Ground"...!!! (for the ICM), so, make sure, that, those..."2-metal-eyelets/holes"...and the...2-Machine-Screws...that Secure the ICM, to the HEI Distributor's Mounting Surface, are "Nice-n-Clean", cuz, if not, the (electrical) "Ground", might become compromised...!!! (aka, Bad Connection)..............There might be, some, Retail, Automotive Parts Businesses, that have, an Ignition Control Module..."Tester"...and sometimes, they are known for..."Testing"...Ignition Control Modules for..."FREE"...so, if You ever want to, verify that theory, just make a few Phone Calls, and ask them, if they Do, in fact, Offer, that "FREE" service, that I was just eluding to................Both, the..."Ignition Control Module"...and, the..."Ignition Coil"...have to be, shall we say, a..."Matched Set"...cuz, if Their..."Specifications"...are..."Too Far Apart"...From..."Each-Other"...then, the not so good results, might end up being...a Weak Output/Spark...or, as "Bad" as, the "Ignition Control Module", and/or, the "Ignition Coil"...get some-what, "Over-Heated", and end up, getting "Fried", and now, it's Tow-Truck-Time...!!!...(ummmm...No Thanks)................."All", of the Electrical..."Connection Points"...should be, as "Clean" as possible, or, You're just asking for Trouble, for the most part, cuz, maybe, sooner or later, something like, a not so good electrical connection, has the possibility, of turning a Fun Day, into One, that's Not so Fun (I prefer Fun, how about You...???...lol)..............I find, that, the Colder and Damper (high humidity), Environment, that, the Big Cap, HEI Distributor (as well as, just about any other, electrically related connectors & devices), are Exposed to, the more often (time-wise), that, those electrical "Connections", should be looked at, so things like...Oxidation...Moisture Intrusion, and last, but no least, the..."Green Yuck-ees"...!!!...that I've come across, not all that long ago, don't take over, and cause Trouble...!!!...so then..."Don't-Neglect-it"..."Inspect-it"...!!! (lol...I just came up with that one...and...hopefully, I'll remember "it", as well)...
I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. FOUND OUT AFTER DAYS OF LABOR THE FACTORY MISSED UP ON THE ROTOR CAP THE SPARK TRANSFER ELECTRODE WAS TOO SHORT. TOO LARGE OF A GAP TO THE WIRE TERMINAL THAT THE PLUG WIRE CONNECTED TO. PUT THE OLD ROTOR CAP BACK ON . IT STARTED UP AS SOON AS THE STARTER ENGAGED. IF IT RAN ON THE GROUND PUT ALL THE OLD EQUIPMENT BACK ON. IF IT STARTS REMOVE ONE ITEM AT A TIME REPLACE WITH A NEW PART TRY STARTING, DO THAT UNTIL ALL NEW PARTS ARE ON YOU WILL FIND THE BAD PART. YOU COULD PUT ONE OLD PART BACK ON ONE PART AT A TIME UNTIL IT STARTS.
I have high voltage in the TACH output, is it possible? I measured as high as 1000v dc, measuring beetwen +12 and TACH, Anyone knows how to solve that? Is it the coil issue? module? Itś a big issue I´ll fry another Tachometer if I connect again...
+sergio litwiniuk Greetings sergio litwiniuk....Thanks for watching, and for Your (potentially)..."Shocking"...HEI (High Energy Ignition) Distributor/Tachometer questions, as well......................The way I figure it, that 1,000 Volts DC (Your Engine was Running, I presume...???), that You Measured, is probably just Normal/the way it is, and also, I have a couple of things to tell You, as well.....................................A while back (as in Years), while my Dodge V-8 Engine was Running/Idling, I recall getting..."Zapped" (as in Electrical Shock), well, maybe, it was more like a very pronounced, Electrical..."Tingle"...when I inadvertently Touched the "Wire Clip", that I made, that was already Attached, to the Negative, Primary, Low Voltage Terminal, of the Oil Filled Ignition Coil, while trying to connect, one of my Yellow Multi-Meter's Alligator Clip/Jaws, to that wire, that I just mentioned...(sure don't need Coffee, with a "Wake-Up Call" like that...!!!...lol)...........................I recall reading somewhere, that, even on the good ole Points and Condenser Distributor, type of Ignition Systems (up till about 1974, that is), that, there very well could be, about 300 Volts present, while the Engine was running.....................................Then, quite some time ago (again I say...Years...lol), I phoned around, to see (actually Hear), just "Which"..."Tachs/Tachometers"...will..."Work/Function Properly"...with the General Motors Type of..."HEI/High Energy Ignition...Distributor", as, I was Hearin', that, there was the Possibility, that..."Some Tachs/Tachometers"...might Not..."Work Correctly/maybe Not at all"...with the HEI Distributor...!!! (in my case, my HEI Distributor, was installed in, a 350 Cubic Inch, V-8 Chevy Engine)................................Even most of the "Parts Guys", that I was talkin' to, on the Phone, back then, "Were-Not, all that Sure", that, the Tachs/Tachometers, that they had in Stock, would Work 100% Properly, when Hooked-Up to an HEI Distributor, so, I didn't Buy One, just in case, "it" Didn't Work Properly, and as "it" should........................Gotta really..."Watch-Out"...when Buying, just about any..."Electrical/Electronic"...Vehicle..."Parts/Components"...as, most of those..."Electrical/Electronic Parts/Components"...are..."Not-Returnable"...!!!...Yikes...!!!.....If and when...???...You might Buy another "Tach/Tachometer", for Your "HEI Distributor"..."Make Sure"...that..."It Will Work 100%"...with Your..."Exact"..."HEI Distributor"...!!!....................................Perhaps, find a Website "Forum", on the good ole Internet, for Your "Exact Vehicle", and Ask the Folks there..."What...Make/Brand/Manufacturer of Tach/Tachometer"...that they are Using, that will "Actually Work", with the..."Same Exact HEI Distributor"...that You have in Your Vehicle..............................Also, make sure, that You Tell "Them", if Your HEI Distributor, is "Factory Stock"...or..."Other-wise"...as in, a "Modified/not so Stock HEI Distributor", or, if Your HEI Distributor, happens to be an "After-Market/High Performance One" (You didn't say, what Your HEI Distributor, happens to be...???), just in case, there might be a Difference or two..................................I'm not sure, but, seeing as how, some HEI Distributor "Rotors" (that spin around, inside the HEI's Distributor Cap), will be Turning/Spinning, either..."Clock-wise"...or..."Counter-Clock-wise/Anti-Clock-wise", depending on the "Engine's Manufacturer", as in, oh, let's say, a Chevy V-8, where the HEI Distributor's "Rotor", Spins in a "Clock-Wise" Rotation, and, an Oldsmobile V-8's, HEI Distributor's "Rotor", will Spin in a "Counter-Clock-Wise/Anti-Clock-Wise Direction, oh, and, Both are, as Viewed, from Above/on Top, of the HEI's Distributor Cap................................The reason, that I mentioned about the Rotor's Spinning/Revolving Direction, and possibly, there also might be a concern, with, maybe, Electrical "Polarity" Differences, in one form or another, as I read, some time ago, about, making sure, that, things like, an HEI Distributor's "Pick-Up Coil", is to, Install, the "Exact/Correct One", for the "Exact" HEI Distributor in question...!!!...or, Problems, may arise...Yikes...!!!..............................So then, Make sure, that, You ask about, Your, Exact HEI Distributor, and Everything Else, that makes up Your Engine's Ignition System, especially concerning, Any "Modifications", or any Added, After-Market, Ignition related Parts & Pieces, as that my Friend, will probably result, in the best outcome for You, and hopefully, save You some Money, at the very same time.............Good Luck, and.............Till next time............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
+RockysRoadshow , excuse me i didn't tell you the model of my hei. it's summitracing blue printed distributor m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-850001r and my engine is a small bloc 283 from 1967, i upgraded to the hei system... i think i fryied one tach, so now i am thinking on connecting one resistance to get a voltage decay un the tach output... and the 1000v are as you said when i turned on the engine...
+sergio litwiniuk Greetings sergio litwiniuk....I had a look-see around, for some information, about Tachs (Tachometers), and having them Connected to the HEI Distributor's "Tach" Terminal, and here, are some of the things..........................Some Brands/Manufacturer's "Tachs" (Tachometers), when connected to the HEI Distributor's "Tach" Terminal, might Require, what is known as a..."Tach Filter" (or possibly, in some cases, might be called a..."Tach Adapter"...???), Installed, "Between", the HEI's "Tach Terminal", and, the "Tach's...(Signal) Input Wire", and, basically, what the "Tach Filter" does, is, to "Filter-out/make less, any, High Electrical Signal Spikes, as well as, any, shall we say, Electrical Interference, that the HEI Distributor puts out, that can cause a Tach, that is not Specifically Designed, for the HEI Distributor's, "Tach Output Terminal's"...Quite High/Electrical Signal, to give/show, False RPM Readings (too High or too Low), or, maybe, Reads 0/Zero, or, maybe gets Stuck at one particular RPM, or, and I hope not, a Tach that got "Fried", and doesn't work any more, due to Not Having the "Exact", Required "Tach Filter" (or Tach Adapter...maybe...???), Installed, in that particular Electrical Circuit...!!!...Yikes...!!!.......................I had a look-see, at some Chevy, Electrical Schematics/Diagrams, and, I actually saw, one of those "Tach Filters" (in Schematic Form, that is), Installed/Placed, between the HEI's..."Tach Terminal" (connection point on the HEI's Distributor Cap), and, connected in "Series" (in line with), to the Wire, that was supposed to go to, the "Factory Installed" Tachometer's Input...................................So then, do a Search/ask around, and find out, whether, the "Tach", that You might be using some day, in Your Vehicle, "Needs the Specified/Correct...Tach Filter" (or not...???), for Your "Exact" HEI Distributor, in order to have the "Tach"..."Display Your Engine's, Correct RPM's", and also, to "Protect" the "Tach", from any "Damage" (if that be the case, that is), from, not only that 1,000 Volts, that You saw on Your Multi-Meter, but also, from any of those, Unwanted, HEI Distributor/Tach Terminal's "Overly-High, Electrical Output Signals" as well...................Good Luck, and..............Till next time, be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
what can cause my module or pick up coil goes bad every 20 minutes
Greetings...Antonio Rodolfo.........Thanks for watching........The number one thing, that will usually cause, an ignition control module to become damaged, is usually, that it "over-heats", because of, not applying, the "correct" heat sink (heat transferring) compound, onto, the bottom (metal side), of the ignition control module, before installing it.........A lot of people, will just use, die-electric grease, which..."is not"...the correct stuff, for the heat transfer to take place, between the bottom (metal side), of the ignition control module, and the aluminum pad, that is part of the HEI's main body, where it mounts onto.........I got my heat sink compound, at a computer store, and it's the cheaper stuff, that's about 10 dollars, for a small tube of it (note, some of the computer chip, heat sink compound, can be really expensive, just so Ya know).........The computer "chip", heat sink compound, is specifically made, for "heat transfer"...!!! (and that's why, it's the correct stuff to use, for this particular application)........Keep in mind, that, the ignition control module, gets quite hot, while in operation.........Make sure that, the bottom (metal side), of the ignition control module, and, the aluminum pad inside of the HEI distributor's body, where it mounts onto, is super clean, then, apply, a film of (computer chip), heat sink compound, to the bottom (metal side), of the ignition control module, and install it........Make sure that, those two metal eyelets (holes), that go through the ignition control module, and the two screws, that go through them, are super clean and shine-ee, as, the eyelets, and those two screws, are the electrical "ground", for the ignition control module (very important...!!!)..........Also, make sure that, you have the correct ignition coil, and, ignition control module, for your "exact" HEI distributor, as, there are different ones made, for each application........Good luck, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
I accidentally dropped my coil in oil I cleaned it best I could but the cooling fins still have oil in between themselves is this coil shot or will it be OK if I clean it with some carb cleaner?
Greetings...Ricky Ricardo..........Thanks for watching, oh, and...I think...that...I hear someone....calling for...Lucy...!!!...lol............Well, if it were my ignition coil, that was coated with oil, then, I would probably spray some..."Brake Cleaner"...all over it, a few times, and, let it drip off, of the ignition coil, so that, it would hopefully, take-away/remove, that unwanted oil with it, then, let it air dry............The..."Brake Cleaner" (sometimes called...Brake Clean), is usually, in a "spray can" (and, looks kinda like, a can of spray paint, somewhat), and, is, a very good liquid cleaner, that doesn't leave, very much/if any, residue behind, once it evaporates (dries), oh, and, it's usually quite safe, to spray on most automotive parts, without causing any damage, most times............The "Brake Cleaner" (clear, liquid spray), must be, very, very good, b-cuz, Ya can spray it directly on things, like, brake pad, or, brake shoe, "friction linings", as well as, brake rotors, and brake drums, and won't, degrade the brake lining's ability, to create the much needed friction, that's needed to get the vehicle stopped, properly & safely..............As for, "Carb (carburetor) Cleaner"..."DON'T"...use it, because, it's very harsh & potent, so much so, that, if using the "stuff", to clean carburetor parts, then, there are lots of "Warnings" out there, that recommend..."Not to"...soak (or coat), any..."rubber-like or plastic parts"...with "it"...!!!...Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...it's really, that..."STRONG"...!!!...........If the "Brake Cleaner" (trick...lol), doesn't work, then, a new ignition coil, it will probably be...........Good luck, and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
RockysRoadshow thanks for a great reply! Now to find Lucy...LUCY!
why the black part was moving ?
Greetings...Mahmoud j. ……...Thanks for watching...…...About the only black part, that was, as you said..."was moving"...would probably be, those quite Big "numbers", that were being displayed, on the, shall we say, "window", at the top of, the yellow multi-meter...……..Those numbers, quite often, do change (move), to different numbers, usually, until they finally settle, most times, to a steady, and not moving/changing, displayed number (and usually, with a decimal point in there, somewhere, as well)…………If you saw something else, that was moving, that "was-not", the numbers, that were showing in the yellow multi-meter's window, then, just let me know, what it was, that you are talking about, thanks.....and...….till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thx man.
I tried your test using the same method. And primary showed 2.7 then when I swapped the 2 leads around it showed 5.7 then when I tested the high side it tested 7.83. so I'm assuming this is a bad coil according to my readings. So would this cause my spark to be orange when I do a spark plugs and spark test with no one spark plug?
Greetings...tobroke2007...……..Thanks for watching...…….Well, if your HEI (High Energy Ignition) Coil, is the same as, the one that you see in this video, then, here are the basics, if you will...…….Make sure that, your ohm-meter is set on the correct "range", as in, low ohms range, for the primary side (might be, from zero, to about 200 ohms on the ohm-meter), and, the high range, for the secondary side (up to, about 20-K/20,000 ohms, or 200-K/200,000 ohms), or maybe, you have an ohm-meter that adjusts itself automatically...???...………..I like to test these HEI coils, "without" the wires connected to the rest of the distributor, that way, there won't be anything else, being "included" in any of the ohm-readings...……...Connect the HEI coil's, 2 outer wires (low/primary side), to the ohm-meter, then, it will usually be showing "just over" Zero (but not Zero...!!!) ohms, up to, usually no more than about 1 ohm, on a factory/stock HEI coil...……….The high ohms side, is where the ohm-meter's leads, are connected to the wire in the middle (of the 3 of them), and the other lead, gets connected to that recessed steel part, that is in the side of the HEI coil's main body, and might be between, about, 6,000 and 30,000 ohms (ball-park figures only), so, try to find the "exact", ohms specifications, for the HEI ignition coil, that you want to test, just to be sure...…….If, by chance, you might have an after-market..."high performance"...HEI coil, then, try to get the ohms "specifications", for that "exact" HEI ignition coil, because, by just guessing, there's no way to be sure at all...……..An orange colored spark, sure sounds weak to me alright...…….A strong spark, as I recall should be blue-ish, or maybe white-ish in color, and, I usually hear a strong snapping sound as well, whenever the spark takes place, between the spark plug's 2 electrodes...…….Spark plug wires in good condition/not too old...???...…….Correct spark plugs for the engine, as well as, having the correct "Gap" measurement, between the spark plug's 2 electrodes...???...…….Battery showing about 14.5 volts, when the engine is running...???...and, are all wiring connections super clean, because sometimes, all it takes is, a poor, or bad wiring connection, to mess things up...……..Good luck, and...….till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@@RockysRoadshow ty bud I got it figured out. My meter was off by nearly 1 ohm after I subtracted that from my reading it was at .4 Ohm's. So coil is good.
don't have to keep scratching things
Greetings...kudos_g................Thanks for watching..............Well, for something like, electrical components and wiring connectors, that are kept, in a somewhat clean and warm environment, then, from what I've experienced, most of the time, the Multi-meter's Probes, actually did make a good connection, and didn't interfere with the Ohms Readings, that I saw on my Multi-Meter, but, maybe, the Ohms/Resistance was showing Higher, than it actually was, and should be, due to, in some (hypothetical) cases, the Coating (extra resistance), that might have been covering, the Real (base) Metal, that's underneath that Coating...??? (interesting huh)................Now then, with all of the Ohm/Resistance Testing, that I have done, over the years, on something like, much Older Cars and Trucks, then, there were a few times, where I did have to "Scratch" the tip of the Probe, into the Surface, of some of the Part's Terminals or Connectors, that were...Oxidized...somewhat Greasy...and also, there were a few times, where I came across, what I like to call, the...Green Yuck-ees...as well...!!!..............Here's an interesting scenario for You.....Let's say for instance, that, You Ohms-Tested, a much Older, HEI Ignition Coil, that was in Cold/Damp Storage, for about 10 Years or more, and Your Ohm/Multi-Meter..."Did Not Display"...any Ohms/Resistance, when You Ohms-Tested it (Your way/no scratching)...now, You went out and purchased a New HEI Ignition Coil...but then, after You remembered, how I suggested, to Scratch those Probe Tips into the metal Surface, of those spade Connectors, in order to Make Sure, to get a Good Connection, to the Good (base) Metal, then, after Re-Ohms-Testing it, I then hear..."Holy-Gwalk-ah-Moly"...!!!...the Ohm Meter, was finally Showing, that, that Old, HEI Ignition Coil, actually Did Test, "With-in" the Manufacturer's "Specifications" after-all...!!!...and now, we have "2" Working HEI Ignition Coils, and, "1" of them, can be kept as a Spare...Yip-ee...!!!...lol...............Also, those HEI Ignition Coil, spade "Connectors", are only "Crimped Onto", the Wires (Not Soldered), and, I always keep that in mind, just in case, that "Crimped Connection", might Fail some day, and maybe, be the cause of, some, Not Wanted, "Extra" (ohms) Resistance, and, now that I've said my thing, I say.....till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Great vid
Greetings ss396rat....I'm glad that You liked it, and, I hope that it helped You out somewhat as well....Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
THIS is the SHORT version?!?! Good info, but it assumes the viewer knows English and how to breathe and not much more. Could have been reduced to about 45 seconds by just doing the measurements.
+Davesnothere Man ....Greetings Davesnothere Man....Thanks for watching.............Well, now that You mention it, I guess, that I could make, a, shall we say..."For Advanced...Car...Guys-n-Gals Only"...a...(very)..."Short, and to the Point"...RUclips Video...of my choosing alright, and Who knows, that might just happen some day, so, please stay tuned, and, make sure, that..."You Keep Breathing"...!!!...lol...(hmmmm...Ported or Manifold Vacuum...???)...and till next time.........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thanks for your video. You didn't mention what the readings would be if the coil was no good. When I connect the two colored outer wires I get .7 ohms. When I touch tie black ground and center spot under the rubber (like you did) I get nothing. Your verdict, please?
Greetings...sunking2001.........You're welcome, and, thanks for watching........For a Factory/Stock, HEI Ignition Coil, the Low Ohms reading, will probably be, about .5 Ohms (one half, of one Ohm), and, is, about Average.............As long as, the Ohms reading, is a bit, Above 0/Zero (Not 0/Zero...!!!), and, not more than, about 1/One Ohm, it should be good to go (You can also, look up the Specifications, for Your "Exact", HEI Ignition Coil as well, just to be sure)..............Is Your Ohm-Meter "Self-Calibrating", cuz, if not, then You really should see, what it Reads, while in the Low Ohms Range, while the 2 Ohm-Meter Probes, are touching each other, and if You see, something like, oh, .3 for example, then, that Number has to be Subtracted from, the Low Ohm Reading, that You saw on Your Ohm-meter, when You Tested the HEI Coil, otherwise, it won't be very Accurate at all.................As for the High Ohms Test, well, I already Answered Your Question, on the Other Video's Comment Section, and that Video is Titled...HEI Coil Test (Part 1), I think...???....and..........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
My OHM meter is self-calibrating Fluke 7-600. I Googled the numbers from the coil and came up with nothing. The numbers are in two rows: top row 101013...bottom row RA0510. My question...when I touch (secondary coil as you said) center black wire to the center spot (under the rubber ring) of the coil...the OHM meter doesn't do anything. It's like I'm not touching anything...no numbers, no beeping, no nothing. Would this indicate the coil being "no good, burnt out, fried, destroyed, or not? Where do I find info on this coil? The distributor I have is the same one at Summit Racing part # 850025. Thanks for your reply.
Greetings...sunking2001................"News Flash"...!!!...lol...oh, and, here's, that thar News................Heavens-to-Betsy...lol...when I looked up the "Specifications", for Your Fluke 7-600...here's what I found, seen, and are also thinikin' about, as to Why...???...Your Fluke Meter, "Would Not" give You, an Ohms Reading, for the HEI's, "High Ohms" Test...................Sorry, to be the Guy, that, has to be the Bearer, of some, not so good News, and now, that I've got Ur attention, that News, happens to be (Drum Roll please...lol)............Well, it appears, according to the "Specifications", that I saw, for Your Fluke 7-600, is, as follows..................The, shall we say, Ohms "Limit", that, You'll be able, to actually "Measure", with Your Fluke 7-600, is "Only 400 Ohms"...!!!...and I'll bet, that, that's the reason that, that Mr. Fluke, is "Not" able to give You, that, some-what, "Higher Ohms Reading", that's needed, to be able to Ohms-Test, Your HEI's, Secondary Side, that should be (as I probably mentioned before), and that, was about...3,000 to 20,000 Ohms, when Ohms Measuring/Testing, the middle black Wire, and the recessed metal part, that's on, the top/middle of the HEI Ignition Coil................So...it kinda looks, like, You might have to...Beg...Borrow, but Never Steal (lol), or maybe, even Buy, an Ohm-Meter (or, Multi-Meter), that's capable, of Measuring, much "Higher Ohms" (resistance) Test/Readings, than, that-of, the Fluke 7-600, that You have there now...................I'm thinkin', that, due to the Specifications, that I saw, for Your Fluke 7-600, leads me to believe, that, that particular Model, would be more suited to, being used around the House, and not so much, for Automotive use, well, it might come in handy, to measure Battery Voltage, or, something along the lines, or "Low" Ohms/Resistance, so, all is not lost, after-all...................If, and when-ever, You might, get ah-hold-of, an Ohm Meter (Multi-Meter), that can Measure/Test, "More", than, about 20,000 Ohms, there-abouts, and You do the Test again, on Your HEI Ignition Coil, You can let me know, how it turns out, well, if You care to, that is.......Good Luck.....and.......till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
THANX
Greetings INTERNA9....You are welcome, and Thanks for watching, and commenting on this video as well....Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
They wasted my time enough with lying ass bs, like u get bridge weld certified u get 23.50 a hour, 9 dollars is far from that, Ipwen I move I move on, there is no commming back, ya ok u wasted my time with your hate, ya ok I will come back now, shhhhit does not work like that.
I wanted to blow my brains out.. too much yapping. . just about 60 percent is him talking about nothing 40 percent actually points out what needs to be done to check it. . flm..
reggin
It is just hate , that is all it is .
Long winded boring video, does anyone just get to the point? You should be forced to watch your own video.
you can't sit your ass down and learn something for 9 minutes, my god man, take your meds