It's no exaggeration to say you taught me how to do this. If it was not for your video, I would still be vacuum casting individual links. You've made creating chains so much more intuitive for a jeweler who was struggling with trying to make unique designs without having to resort to spending days on one piece. Thank you as always!
this video came right on time! i'm starting a jewelry business and had a feeling id have to wait a while to do chains since it seemed time consuming to print individual links and then piece them together manually but a few days ago i saw a business do what you did, ie printing the link and the sprues all in one go and i was ASTOUNDED. thanks for uploading this! made me a lot more confident.
There will be a bit of trial and error per each new design, especially if you are new to lost resin casting, but it does save a lot of time in the long run.
This chain had less then 0.5 mm inbetween the links. As you work with the chain it will loosen more and more as investment comes out of the cracks, you break away any flashing in-between the close joints, and generally release the tension. This is why after the vibratory tumblers it's so much looser.
We have many many videos on this in terms of our traditional burnout cycle ruclips.net/video/FdckYTV2rJg/видео.html. And will be updating with a rapid burnout cycle following the vlog we recently released. ruclips.net/video/K1sa_qGZwU4/видео.html
Would it be easier to make individual Y shaped links that can be pressed together to make links or would that take longer (I've no experience doing this!).
Will depend on design. Designs that print well when connected do them connected, otherwise printing a tree of alternating closed and opened rings would be fine.
great vid i saved it to keepers.. BUT how do you prevent the links casting in one solid piece?? instead by some magic your links seem to be all loose from each other?
The magic is that when you’re doing the 3D print, the post processing and the casting, etc. you need to keep an exterior support in place to help keep the links separated. If you’ve printed the piece with enough tolerance, washed the print well, vacuumed your investment well, and not affected that support structure you should have a chain that’s able to move.
At 3:02 you can see the two smaller sections, at 3:35 we are cutting open the single link to then connect the 2 sections, that connection is then soldered closed. To get it loose you simply need to wiggle it, manually breaking any thin flashing of metal bridging the gap between links. The tumblers then get in between the links and remove any areas that were holding the links tight and allow it to flow smoothly.
what material did you made the chain out of? is it stainless steel or any other metal? and which materials of jewelry can i produce with this technique?
The cast was in bronze. What materials you can cast in depends on what temperatures you’re able to reach with the equipment that you have. Some materials like steel or platinum require specific equipment. Other materials like gold, silver, bronze, brass, etc, can be done with the same equipment.
Hi clear mind, that’s really good, I’ve been wanting to do a ca st like this. how did you keep it as a solid piece when you was sanding it? I couldn’t see and I noticed the sprues was cut off.
Tension. Due to the tight fit of the chain and some small residual supports we have to manually releasee then tension in order to get it to move around. So it you are careful you can sand it. You'll notice that as the video goes along the chain becomes looser, especially after the vibratory tumbling.
@@ClearMindJewellery ahhhh yes I understand now.🙂 I can visualise what your saying. Yes yes I’m going to have a go at this very soon. Keep up your good work and can’t wait to see what your next video brings. Nice one CMJ team.
Great process video! Thanks for sharing ^_^ I really need to get polishing sorted, been doing things by hand and admittedly doing a miserable lazy job of it as I've not got the patience using micromotors and tiny wheels! lol
@@ClearMindJewellery ah, didn't think about that. Barrel style rotary tumblers are okay for polishing to a finer finish then? Like, I don't have to leave stuff running for 2 weeks before they're good?
It depends on your workflow. It's great for detailed models, soft materials, and really brittle materials. For chunky models in a semi springy resin Dan has a really bad habit of just ripping the supports of lol. But if the material or the model can't handle that we use the Saber.
The straight ones are much easier to print as you don't have to mess with supports etc. Some cuban style links are also better suited to printing/casting flat. We'd try the spiralled tree style with more open link designs and a slightly less soft resin.
Can’t really quantify into a number but if you’re the type of person whom solders all of their links closed then casting everything in place saves a heap of time.
It's no exaggeration to say you taught me how to do this. If it was not for your video, I would still be vacuum casting individual links. You've made creating chains so much more intuitive for a jeweler who was struggling with trying to make unique designs without having to resort to spending days on one piece. Thank you as always!
Glad that we were able to help. We do our best to try to show thoughtful and interesting techniques other jewellers can actually use.
Thanks!
this video came right on time! i'm starting a jewelry business and had a feeling id have to wait a while to do chains since it seemed time consuming to print individual links and then piece them together manually but a few days ago i saw a business do what you did, ie printing the link and the sprues all in one go and i was ASTOUNDED. thanks for uploading this! made me a lot more confident.
There will be a bit of trial and error per each new design, especially if you are new to lost resin casting, but it does save a lot of time in the long run.
@@ClearMindJewellery hola, podrrias compatirme ese archivo de cadena amigo?
how did you made the links move after being stuck together after casting? what happened between 3:30 and 3:50? thanks
This chain had less then 0.5 mm inbetween the links. As you work with the chain it will loosen more and more as investment comes out of the cracks, you break away any flashing in-between the close joints, and generally release the tension. This is why after the vibratory tumblers it's so much looser.
That intro bumps, fam!
Hi, thanks for the video. Tell me what kind of gypsum you use and the calcination cycle for polymers?
We have many many videos on this in terms of our traditional burnout cycle ruclips.net/video/FdckYTV2rJg/видео.html. And will be updating with a rapid burnout cycle following the vlog we recently released. ruclips.net/video/K1sa_qGZwU4/видео.html
Oh snap. I've been meaning to try this!
Do it!! And let us know the results in the discord!
@@ClearMindJewellerycan you share the print settings
Would it be easier to make individual Y shaped links that can be pressed together to make links or would that take longer (I've no experience doing this!).
Will depend on design. Designs that print well when connected do them connected, otherwise printing a tree of alternating closed and opened rings would be fine.
great vid i saved it to keepers.. BUT how do you prevent the links casting in one solid piece?? instead by some magic your links seem to be all loose from each other?
The magic is that when you’re doing the 3D print, the post processing and the casting, etc. you need to keep an exterior support in place to help keep the links separated.
If you’ve printed the piece with enough tolerance, washed the print well, vacuumed your investment well, and not affected that support structure you should have a chain that’s able to move.
@@ClearMindJewellery Thank you
did you only slice that one link to get it all loose? i was confused by that part. any guidance would be much appreciate!
At 3:02 you can see the two smaller sections, at 3:35 we are cutting open the single link to then connect the 2 sections, that connection is then soldered closed.
To get it loose you simply need to wiggle it, manually breaking any thin flashing of metal bridging the gap between links. The tumblers then get in between the links and remove any areas that were holding the links tight and allow it to flow smoothly.
@@ClearMindJewellery did you make one cut bend/conect and bend back or made 2 cuts and solder back?
@@MORFERIUSone cut, bend open, solder the cut closed.
what material did you made the chain out of? is it stainless steel or any other metal? and which materials of jewelry can i produce with this technique?
The cast was in bronze. What materials you can cast in depends on what temperatures you’re able to reach with the equipment that you have. Some materials like steel or platinum require specific equipment. Other materials like gold, silver, bronze, brass, etc, can be done with the same equipment.
Hi clear mind, that’s really good, I’ve been wanting to do a ca st like this. how did you keep it as a solid piece when you was sanding it? I couldn’t see and I noticed the sprues was cut off.
Tension. Due to the tight fit of the chain and some small residual supports we have to manually releasee then tension in order to get it to move around. So it you are careful you can sand it.
You'll notice that as the video goes along the chain becomes looser, especially after the vibratory tumbling.
@@ClearMindJewellery ahhhh yes I understand now.🙂 I can visualise what your saying. Yes yes I’m going to have a go at this very soon. Keep up your good work and can’t wait to see what your next video brings.
Nice one CMJ team.
Where can I find this file!??
awesome! what solution did u use to blacken the links ?
Standard Jax blackener.
What does that do though?
Great process video! Thanks for sharing ^_^ I really need to get polishing sorted, been doing things by hand and admittedly doing a miserable lazy job of it as I've not got the patience using micromotors and tiny wheels! lol
Same here.. get yourself a tumbler, leave them in for a few hours. Depending on the type of finish you're looking for it could work
@@maximejanssens6210 yeah. I think I'll make a magnetic tumbler soon. They're not overly complex and parts needed are affordable :D
Just a not that magnetic tumblers using pins can limit types of finish due to finishing media. We've been using walnut shell.
@@ClearMindJewellery ah, didn't think about that. Barrel style rotary tumblers are okay for polishing to a finer finish then? Like, I don't have to leave stuff running for 2 weeks before they're good?
How do you feel about the Sonic Saber? I’ve heard mixed things but it looks like it works wonders with support material.
It depends on your workflow. It's great for detailed models, soft materials, and really brittle materials. For chunky models in a semi springy resin Dan has a really bad habit of just ripping the supports of lol. But if the material or the model can't handle that we use the Saber.
Nice, been trying to design a coiled one in blender.. tricky stuff. Seems like casting it straight is easiest. How do you like the outcome?
The straight ones are much easier to print as you don't have to mess with supports etc. Some cuban style links are also better suited to printing/casting flat. We'd try the spiralled tree style with more open link designs and a slightly less soft resin.
@@ClearMindJewellery I wanted to try a looser coiled chain that could then be run through a mill, but beyond my skill atm
Hello Guys , nice video ))) What do you think the time economy using such method ? Like 30% faster than all doing by hands , or faster ?
Can’t really quantify into a number but if you’re the type of person whom solders all of their links closed then casting everything in place saves a heap of time.
Was the goal to cast th4 chain in place? It seems you had to break it a part to sauder it? Not being a critic im just curious about the process!:)
He did it in two pieces and soldered them together because it won't fit in the kiln in one piece
Where can I find .stl
Whats the point of using the saw blades? I mean shouldn’t the Cuban come out of the printer w/ independent links?
The saw was only use to cut one link to add the two printed components together as per the other comments.
3d print file??
Hello i have diplome in jewelry and i looking for work if u can help
how to your resin burnout cycle??? hm.. casting burnout cycle
👍💓!
Made it about 1/2 way through. The video was interesting, but not interesting enough to make up for that music. How about some narration instead.
First!
The only thing I hate about doing bracelets as a cast is a little porosity kills a lot of hard work a lot of the time. Better to cast open links