I love to watch all the fun you're having with this little model. A good warm up to get you back into building. I like the Eduard 1/32 models I'm seeing with their awsome decales. Can't wait to find them back in the stores. You made me inter my models and it was fun to see just how much the spectator's loved the work. So, get them to the local meets and have even more fun meeting the people who share your hobby. It will warm your heart.
I absolutely love the Tamiya E3. Builds nicely. You can get a great build out of the box, or, if you want a challenge, there's plenty of aftermarket. SBS makes an awesome resin cockpit that is basically a drop in replacement.
That’s coming along nicely. I use some styrene that I fashioned into a blunt blade to help get the decals down into the panel lines. I also put Tamiya decal adhesive on the model before I put the decal on & then Tamiya mark fit. That seems to really suck the decals down. Thanks for sharing 👍🏻👍🏻🙃🙃
Good video. I’ve got the G6 in the stash….one day it’ll fall down from the shelf to the bench! I wanted to correct you a bit in the earlier part of the video when you were sanding the primer on the ghost seam. You stated that the areas that sanded to bare plastic were “higher” than the seam filler. This is false. The reason why you started sanding through to plastic is because you were sanding the sides of the primer as much as the top since you were using your thumb and not a sanding block. What was occurring was your thumb was flexing over the higher seam filler and sanding it all at the same time. A sanding block would have sanded the higher seam filler before getting down to the original primer coat. Regardless, the final outcome was nice. Just wanted to make that statement for some newer modelers!
I note your comments about people seeking the exact colours for models. I don't think that is too important either because, as modelers, we do pre-shading, post-shading, washes, pin washes, panel line washes, oils and dry brushing plus gloss and matt varnishing. I think all this is to enhance the "depth" of the model. If we were able to enlarge these models to full size the painting would probably not look right hence there is a massive scaling effect, which I am sure applies to colours also.
Even if the clear coat doesn’t make a difference with the decals, it’s a protective coat against the decal setting solution. I’ve had Microsol interact with paint in a bad way.
I use the circut for my tomcat walkways and viper have glass masking. I bought it for my wife in 2018, but I use it way more than she does. It really wasn’t on purpose, just happened that way.
Hey Sean, when that putty sticks in the gear legs holes…get a can of that compressed air (those duster cans), turn it upside down, and gently squeeze the trigger so liquid comes out. It will harden/freeze the putty making it easier to get out instead of stretching on you.
I really enjoy these videos, it’s great to see you back in action. That putty looks real similar to Ammo’s putty. With the Ammo putty I noticed that if you pull it apart slowly it strings, but if you pull it fast then it breaks clean. Maybe that will help next time pulling it out of the wheel well. Just pull it out a little aggressively and it will not string. Keep up the great work and thanks for taking the time to make these videos.
When you mentioned the difficulty of removing carrier film from some decals, I looked at my F-106 and the "US AIR FORCE" decals on both sides of the fuselage. The decals were aftermarket from Micro-Scale that I'd had for about 6-7 years before I used them. Luckily, Micro-Set and Micro-Sol did the job and I have very little, almost un-noticeable silvering. I don't think I'd even try to cut around all those letters. Your Mojo must not have gone very far. Looks like you found it, to me.
Sean, i really like that you do again these more tutorial and way longer videos. Of course we have seen you CA and pigment filler and all the other little secrets. But i dont mind to see this again. Your videos have never been 100% just about the individual model, i watched them for the process. So thank you for being back - just in the old style. I totally agree with you regarding color accuracy. I remember how detailed you have been about the F 35 and its grey-glitter-metallic color sheme. One dont get it right until you get the very same (classified) colors. Its NOT about the pigments. Last but not least: i have doubts that germans (i can tell, im one) were so accurate during WWII with their colors. They probably smashe one the plane what have been left in their hands.
Amazing job Sean, you are faster in building than I in watching haha. great tip with the angled brush at the wingroot with th clear coat, gonna try this. how did you made the second half of the gloss coat, etter where did you grab the plane for it? i always struggle whit handlig tha plane for the gloss coat thanks for sharing
I usually grab it by a wingtip and spray everything but where I hold it, let it dry then spray the area I was holding. The Tamiya stuff dries fairly quickly
Have you ever tried using a vinegar/warm water solution for soaking the decals? I haven’t tried it myself yet, but I saw this on Rob Pattinson’s Chanel. It kind of serves as microset. I was also wondering if you ever use solvacet?
Never used vinegar and water but I know Will Pattison uses it. I don’t typically bother with micro set as I haven’t noticed that it makes much of a difference
Whats the chance I could get you to make a stand for me. I'm 76yrs old and i want to make a top Gun F-18 for my son, but don't have the skills or the tools to make one like you have. yes I have S.S money to pay you . Steve
she looks a beaut. always had a soft spot for the e3
I love to watch all the fun you're having with this little model. A good warm up to get you back into building.
I like the Eduard 1/32 models I'm seeing with their awsome decales. Can't wait to find them back in the stores.
You made me inter my models and it was fun to see just how much the spectator's loved the work. So, get them to the local meets and have even more fun meeting the people who share your hobby. It will warm your heart.
great work best tamiya decals i have ever seen on a kit, hard work paid off
Great post as always, really like the color scheme of the version you chose
È sempre un piacere vederti in azione. In questo video mi è piaciuto il tuo senso di humor riguardo la gita a Washington. Saluti dall'Italia. 👍🏻
I absolutely love the Tamiya E3. Builds nicely. You can get a great build out of the box, or, if you want a challenge, there's plenty of aftermarket. SBS makes an awesome resin cockpit that is basically a drop in replacement.
Love your videos,you have the most instructive I have watched always look forward to your builds 👍👍
Great stuff! Man I wish I could be a little more detail oriented in my paint finishing... 🤔
Love your new format, thanks so much!
Those decals laid down nice!👍 Great update the Emil is looking awesome.cheers Trey
Thanks for your tips, look great.
That’s coming along nicely. I use some styrene that I fashioned into a blunt blade to help get the decals down into the panel lines. I also put Tamiya decal adhesive on the model before I put the decal on & then Tamiya mark fit. That seems to really suck the decals down. Thanks for sharing 👍🏻👍🏻🙃🙃
There is so much that goes into color perception. The pigment color is only part of the whole experience.
Those are some pretty big sink marks on both wings! Still looks great!
Enjoy the background family stuff, real world modeling.
Good video. I’ve got the G6 in the stash….one day it’ll fall down from the shelf to the bench!
I wanted to correct you a bit in the earlier part of the video when you were sanding the primer on the ghost seam. You stated that the areas that sanded to bare plastic were “higher” than the seam filler. This is false. The reason why you started sanding through to plastic is because you were sanding the sides of the primer as much as the top since you were using your thumb and not a sanding block. What was occurring was your thumb was flexing over the higher seam filler and sanding it all at the same time. A sanding block would have sanded the higher seam filler before getting down to the original primer coat.
Regardless, the final outcome was nice. Just wanted to make that statement for some newer modelers!
I note your comments about people seeking the exact colours for models. I don't think that is too important either because, as modelers, we do pre-shading, post-shading, washes, pin washes, panel line washes, oils and dry brushing plus gloss and matt varnishing. I think all this is to enhance the "depth" of the model. If we were able to enlarge these models to full size the painting would probably not look right hence there is a massive scaling effect, which I am sure applies to colours also.
Beee-utiful bird, baby!
Even if the clear coat doesn’t make a difference with the decals, it’s a protective coat against the decal setting solution. I’ve had Microsol interact with paint in a bad way.
I use the circut for my tomcat walkways and viper have glass masking. I bought it for my wife in 2018, but I use it way more than she does. It really wasn’t on purpose, just happened that way.
Hey Sean, when that putty sticks in the gear legs holes…get a can of that compressed air (those duster cans), turn it upside down, and gently squeeze the trigger so liquid comes out. It will harden/freeze the putty making it easier to get out instead of stretching on you.
I really enjoy these videos, it’s great to see you back in action. That putty looks real similar to Ammo’s putty. With the Ammo putty I noticed that if you pull it apart slowly it strings, but if you pull it fast then it breaks clean. Maybe that will help next time pulling it out of the wheel well. Just pull it out a little aggressively and it will not string. Keep up the great work and thanks for taking the time to make these videos.
When you mentioned the difficulty of removing carrier film from some decals, I looked at my F-106 and the "US AIR FORCE" decals on both sides of the fuselage. The decals were aftermarket from Micro-Scale that I'd had for about 6-7 years before I used them. Luckily, Micro-Set and Micro-Sol did the job and I have very little, almost un-noticeable silvering. I don't think I'd even try to cut around all those letters.
Your Mojo must not have gone very far. Looks like you found it, to me.
Sean, i really like that you do again these more tutorial and way longer videos. Of course we have seen you CA and pigment filler and all the other little secrets. But i dont mind to see this again. Your videos have never been 100% just about the individual model, i watched them for the process. So thank you for being back - just in the old style.
I totally agree with you regarding color accuracy. I remember how detailed you have been about the F 35 and its grey-glitter-metallic color sheme. One dont get it right until you get the very same (classified) colors. Its NOT about the pigments. Last but not least: i have doubts that germans (i can tell, im one) were so accurate during WWII with their colors. They probably smashe one the plane what have been left in their hands.
Love the paint scheme. I usually toss out my Tamiya decals, too thick and never really responds to setting solutions.
The good thing about Tamiya decals is that they can be manhandled.
Just a comment for the
algorithm
Have you tried the sponge that comes in aftermarket sets?
Amazing job Sean, you are faster in building than I in watching haha.
great tip with the angled brush at the wingroot with th clear coat, gonna try this.
how did you made the second half of the gloss coat, etter where did you grab the plane for it? i always struggle whit handlig tha plane for the gloss coat
thanks for sharing
I usually grab it by a wingtip and spray everything but where I hold it, let it dry then spray the area I was holding. The Tamiya stuff dries fairly quickly
@@seanerk5kt9 thanks👍. Will give tamiya another chance, back in the days I last used it I wasnt that happy
Have you ever tried using a vinegar/warm water solution for soaking the decals? I haven’t tried it myself yet, but I saw this on Rob Pattinson’s Chanel. It kind of serves as microset. I was also wondering if you ever use solvacet?
Skip the solvacet question. Lol the final result on those Tamiya decals is awesome!
Never used vinegar and water but I know Will Pattison uses it. I don’t typically bother with micro set as I haven’t noticed that it makes much of a difference
Whats the chance I could get you to make a stand for me. I'm 76yrs old and i want to make a top Gun F-18 for my son, but don't have the skills or the tools to make one like you have. yes I have S.S money to pay you . Steve
Have you ever used Micro Set with Micro Sol?
Yes. I don’t think it does anything tho
@@seanerk5kt9 I thought it was just me not using the products correctly. Thanks for all your tips for they are helpful.
build a matchbox 1/32
Die Tasse in deinen Videos ist nicht cool. Du möchtest uns zeigen was für tolle Modelle Du gebaut hast und nicht was Du da trinkst.
Tamiya XF22 is extremely close to the original German Luftwaffe RLM02 paint colour