Making a Magnolia flower in clay
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 8 фев 2025
- Sometime ago I was asked how I would make a magnolia flower in clay and as the magnolia trees were blooming I thought it would be a good time to do this video. I show how I create and shape the petals and make the textured centre of the flower as well as how to get the petals to stay upright!
I haven't made a magnolia flower before so while I go through the steps of how I made this I thought I'd also show you how I approach figuring out how to build something I've never built before. Beginning with research and photos then dividing it into parts to assemble into the whole.
I obviously bring my years of knowledge to the process which makes me more confident when trying something new but really I think the trick is to know that it is going to fail in some way and be happy with that, after all, we learn the most from failing. I expect to have to make something new many times before I'm happy with the result.
For the full hand building basics that you can learn at your own pace check out my beginners course at parmstrongcera...
For more inspiration and support check out my online membership! parmstrongcera...
Along with all my regular videos you get a fabulous, friendly clay chat community and monthly extended videos as well as supportive resources and useful links 😊
If you're looking for some fantastic potters accessories including hoodies, t-shirts, aprons and water bottles check out my merchandise at parmstrongcera...
The clay I use is in my videos is Potterycrafts raku modelling clay www.potterycra...
It’s a fantastic beginners hand building clay!
The brands of brush on glazes that I use at the studio include Amaco, Mayco, Terracolor, Spectrum, Potterycrafts, Scarva, Vitraglaze (hot clay) and Duncan.
I’m based in the UK and suppliers I use regularly for glazes, tools, slips, etc. are:
• www.potterycrafts.co.uk
• www.potclays.co.uk
• www.scarva.com
• www.bathpotters.co.uk
• www.corbykilns.co.uk 
Хобби
Beautiful, you’re a true artist. Thanks from Mexico
Thanks ☺️
Thank you
You're welcome 😊
Amazing! Thank you Paula. Sandrine, from France
You're so welcome! 😊
Thanks!
You're very welcome ☺️
Wow......👌👌👍
Thanks ☺️
Would love to see the final result after glazing!!!
I'll post a comment with a link once it's done ☺️ so far it's survived the bisque firing so glazing is next...
Is it possible to see the finished piece? Thank you for the video. I really enjoyed watching it, and it was a great learning experience
You can see the finished flower here I'm really pleased with how this has turned out 😊
instagram.com/p/CfHCDk1IWBK/?igsh=MWtoenpjNmFndWIyZQ==
To finish it I used pink underglaze on top of a white mottle glaze for the petals and for the centre I used 3 different green glazes and a touch of red. It was fired to 1220C/cone 6. 😊
UAU?! Is difficult! 👏🏻👏🏻
☺️
Hi Paula..love your work..I need help..I've recently started making fairy houses as I needed to do something creative.. I bought clay online I wanted white but they where out of stock so I have terracotta colour..I haven't worked with clay since I was at school and so I'm very amateur.. using my clay bottles and jars I've rolled out to about 5mms for main structure.. then I'm adding leaves and flowers and other decorations..after 2 days of air-drying I'm getting cracks .not a problem as I've filled them but my leaves and bits are falling off...my question is Should I add all the fiddly bits at the same time of the main build or should I add them once it's dried.. I'm sticking them on with a small amounts of water and clay at the time of main build..should I score them before attaching.. ?
I'm going to wet my hands less and use minimum water next build as I think this causing the cracking..I'm air drying in a very cool room ..
Thanks for any advice you may have..x
Hi Annie. I think working with less water is a good idea and possibly try rolling out a little thicker for the main body of the build, say 6-7mm, may also help. Another option is to scale down a bit. Especially if it's a smooth clay, it may be struggling with the tensions as it dries with different thicknesses drying at slightly different speeds and any weight pushing down from decorations may add stress points for drying too. It's hard to say without seeing it.
It is best to attach added decorations when both pieces are at the same dryness point, if that makes sense? So if you want to add them as soon as you've made them and they're quite wet then adding them as soon as you build is a good idea. If the main build needs to dry a bit to make it stronger before adding the extra weight of the decorations, it's best to let the decorations dry a little too so they match.
If things are falling off during drying, yes I would score and use gloopy slip (rather than runny) put them in place then gently press and wiggle until they don't move anymore. This generally works to make sure things stay ☺️
I hope this helps and do let me know how you get on ☺️
@@PaulaArmstrongCeramics Thank you so much Paula for taking the time to respond.. it was quite disheartening to see bits that had fallen off but I shall persevere and use a more gloopy consistency for attaching and make sure they don't move ... I wish you could see what I've made too as I'd love your professional opinion.. I live in France and tried to join a class but they are few and far between fully booked and pricey so I thought I'd just give it a bash at home..
Thanks once again.. Annie
Hi, do you use a cheese cutter to make this very thin layers of clay for your unique artwork?
Greetings from Iceland :-)
Hi 😊 No, I just roll them out with a rolling pin on an old pillow case so they don't stick to the surface.
If you'd like to see how this finished up after glazing you can see it here facebook.com/1446530518964929/posts/pfbid0NAvfsKW2uZ8T7aDwWNzSHd65pKBLmRPkuUswjZjrGyoT5qtGc9EBNKtsveTdcvcXl/?sfnsn=scwspmo ☺️