@@nightscapeimages.richard hahah. Richard you should totally add some content to the next update on our course. Get in touch if you're interested in coming on board.
I'd also wondered about your background. The quality of your videos is astonishingly good; now I know why. Thanks for imparting your years' of knowledge to the rest of us!
Richard, re dew control, if you want to save some battery power, then get a controller (kendrick and others make them) that measures the lens temp and ambient temp and just supplies enough power to keep the temp about 3 degrees above ambient. Even better are the ones that calculate the dew point and just keep the lens just above dew point. Love the videos, cheers Greg
Thanks for sharing the all that info in the Q & A Richard. I would’ve watched and commented earlier but I’m currently in Tassie filming and photographing with limited internet connection. Great video mate, look forward to Part 2 👍🙏
Fantastic Richard - I never stop learning. Thanks for posting and taking the time to produce. It is great how you answer with in field examples and the actual items rather than just explaining. To use that old phrase a picture is worth a thousand words. Cheers
Richard, another great video. I truly appreciate the effort you put in to answer questions in the field. So much more informative than just talking about it. Looks like you also are getting some good topics for the future. Looking forward to part 2.
Great video Richard and I am really looking forward to seeing videos like these!! A few observations on dew issues for the benefit of the viewers following my experience. If people shoot relatively short periods of time, then the dew warmers are generally not required, for instance if shooting is limited to a few shots or say something like 20 mins, assuming of course that the lens hood is always on and when people are not shooting that the lens cap is always on. Furthermore, night shooters should always pay attention to even a light breeze towards the front of the lens. In that case the lens warmers will not work and if someone wants to take a time lapse of star trails, then it is better to change the orientation of the camera away from the breeze. On the hand warmers also, they are of limited use as they usually work on our body if we move periodically. However, this will probably not be the case particularly when we fix the camera in position for some time.
Very good comments Thanos, really appreciate that. I don't think I mentioned about the dew point temperature also .. which is what determines the dew in the first place. Thanks so much for watching.
This is brilliant, Richard. I know that this is a video (and Part 2) that I'll be watching several times over. Great questions and great answers. This is a great idea for a video tutorial, and thanks so much for producing it and posting.
Thanks Richard. I saw this was going too be one of your longer videos but it flew by. Some fantastic questions and your answers were very helpful. I like starting the year off with a good Q&A video. Looking forward too part 2 and the 2020 night sky. I think all of your video's are very good and the ones you do on post processing are very easy too understand and easy to execute with some basic knowledge of photoshop.
Great video on some of the questions that come up when outside taking night pictures Always a treat to follow you on your adventures in night photography
We haven’t had a chance to watch your video yet but I want you to know that my wife and I are hoping you are ok and not affected too adversely by the wildfires in Australia. You are in our thoughts and prayers.
A great practical video and answers clear and concise. Looking forward to part 2, your video was a welcome distraction at the moment. Stay safe down there.
You know Richard one if the things I was struggling with especially winter here in Ireland is photographing the night sky without the MW core, you certainly have inspired me and Wendy to get out and photograph alternative compositions and parts of the night sky. Love the video and your equipment and techniques in capturing your images,especially the PANO.... Thank you once again for your kindness in sharing your work flow with us all.... Thank you once again 👍🙏
Well! Very good! And don’t worry as for video lasting forever, I would listen to you for hours ... you’re so interesting! Needless to say that I’ve watched that video a few times already and I will watch it many other times as well! 🤗😍🤗
Can't wait for part 2 👍 It's just a thought, but could Kim's problem be caused by a cheap torch with a poor quality beam possible not shone from enough of an angle. I've had torches in the past where you can see circles/rings in the beam?
Very good suggestion Ian, I think it's well worth investigating. I don't like torches that have hot spots in the centre and I know what you mean about the circles in the beam.
Thanks for the Q&A Richard. Twenty two minutes is a bit long, but your presentation style is easy to watch and I stayed with it. You mentioned Fototripper and Shainblum recently released video tutorial called "Milky Way Made Easy". I follow both those YT channels and both guys are really good. I bought their course and here's my impression 1) There is lots of content, many hours; 2) It's well put together; 3) It covers a wide range of experience, really novice to more advanced; and 4) It might be a tad too expensive, unless you have zero experience shooting night sky. You will get a complete lesson from easy to complex techniques of shooting the night sky. I've shot lots of night sky and did learn from their class. Therefore, if you are a total newbie to night sky, it's worth the cost, if you have some experience, then you'll be paying for some content that you may not need.
Thanks for your insight Steve. I'm always conscious of the length of these videos but it's really hard to communicate lots of information quickly. I'm trying to give answers that will be helpful rather than being too general in content. I appreciate your feedback regarding the "Milky Way made Easy" .. as I haven't actually seen the content myself.
More good information Richard, I like the Q&A format since it answers some questions I had. I follow Shainblum & Hardcastle and have been considering their Milky Way Made Easy course but wondered if they will cover new information that you haven't covered already. I feel like I've learned so much from you that it might be repetitive, but then again, it might be worth it just for the laughs as they can be quite hilarious to watch! :) I am truly saddened when I watch the news and see what's happening in Australia with the fires. Hopefully it will be controlled soon.
Thanks for your comments Paula. You will usually find that different people have differing methods of achieving the same end result. There is always something to learn. Yes Australia is really going through some troubling times at the moment with a couple of months of hot weather to come.
Great video! I know I'm chomping at the bit for a flash tutorial. For those that want a fast lens but don"t want to shell out a wheel barrow full of cash, don't dismiss the full manual offerings from Samyang/Rokinon. I pray you're safe from the fires.
Yet another great video Rich. I liked the practical approach to answer some questions. Look forward for part 2 soon. One other point you may want to touch upon, if possible, is to give tips on seeking permission with govt authorities to do night photo shoot.
Thanks so much for watching Madhusudhan. In Australia we don't have so much government control over access to land etc .. it's more private land holders. I always seek permission from farmers and land holders to shoot on their property.
Thank you Richard very informative as always, taking selfies is always been something I have steared clear of, I will bit the bullet one day. One thing that put me off going out for a shoot is overcast nights and the moon, just wondering what you game plan is when the moon or clouds are in the sky.
Thanks a lot Brett. I'm a bit like you about the moon, although I'm working on a video at present where I shot with about a 35% moon in the sky. If it's cloudy then I'll usually not bother unless there are clear breaks in the clouds.
Despite the slightly different format, I really enjoyed this one. I'm looking forward to part 2. It was interesting to hear you mention Peter Zelinka and GAvin HArdcastle, I follow both - Gavin mainly because his videos are just so funny. Do you ever collaborate with other photographers ?
Missed this video last night while I was watching your old videos. My particular favorite is the junky spot with the chain in the tree. So much detail.
Nice choice of questions and solid answers to them, once again a great video. On the multi-row panos a point and a question. The point to note is that all the overlapping achieves a similar impact on noise reduction as stacking, so overlap more rather than less. The question is how do you process the rows, especially if the middle row is taken in a counter direction to the top and bottom? If you do them individually, what is your process through final stitching?
Thanks Steve. I find that if the individual images are well lit and exposed then the pano software can sort them out quite well. I've found it doesn't matter which order they were taken. Good point about the noise reduction as well.
@@nightscapeimages.richard I know the newest PTGui accepts all rows at once in a pano, not sure that the older version I have will, but I prefer to stay on PS. I haven't actually attempted a multi-row pano yet, something to try for 2020.
Learnt a few things here. Thanks! For the group photo shot at 18.06, I was surprised that it was a 20sec long...How on earth could all of you stay so still... especially for the lady beside you standing on a slightly inclined plane?
Thanks so much for your comments Raymond. Yes the secret to unlock night shots using flash is to use rear curtain sync settings. It freezes the last split second of the 20 sec exposure and though people may move slightly, the faces are always really clear. I will be doing another video on this procedure again as it can be quite difficult to grasp.
Hi Richard...I come to your videos time and time again to re-visit some of your ideas and inspirations....I've got a bit of an SOS for you...in this Q & A video you talk about hooking up the jump starter battery to the lens warmer...I thought it woild be a good idea to try and get one of these to power the camera so I can shoot star trails all night long , the problem I'm having is that my camera, the Canon 6d, doesnt seem to have the connections to hook up to this sort of thing, I can't even connect it to a power bank...do you have any thoughts or suggestions?? And also, I can only seem to find 12v batts, not 9v. Cheers, Cat
Hey Carmel. Cameras don't have connections for these types of power banks. You need to search for a dedicated camera power supply. They are made but I can't remember the brand. In essence they have a dummy battery shape that fits in the camera battery space. Yes these car jump starters are all 12 volt power supply.
@@nightscapeimages.richard ok thanks Richard...hope you''re coping with the world the way it is?? Pretty crazy ey? Your videos certainly help pass the time!! Cheers, Cat
Thanks Richard. I've loved your tutorials for some time now. Your Q&A video is a great idea. I have a question! Sometime ago you mentioned in one of your videos that you use an orange gel filter on your torch when light painting. Do you still use an orange gel filter and if so what number do you recommend?
Great video, waiting for part 2. I have learned a lot from watching your videos, the one question I have is shooting in the big city (Light pollution) I live in the USA, near Providence Rhode Island south of Boston Massachusetts, outside of moving, any advice?
Thanks heaps for watching. Unfortunately there is no easy solution to the light pollution issue. You simply have to get away from it and for you that will mean travelling a long way. Fortunately for me it's not a major concern.
The section on panoramas, how would I light the scene at the same time, when I need to do the panorama as quick as possible to avoid too much star movement
If you have a chance , I would like to ask you to show how you do Polar Align in southern Hemisphere for star tracker. Looking forward to seeing that. Thanks.
Hi Tanindo, I think the Nikon 24-120 f4 lens is a good general purpose lens but a bit of a compromise for nightscapes at f4. If I was buying a lens for nightscapes it would be f2.8 or better ... eg: f1.8 or f2 perhaps.
Very helfpul video! I have a Canon EOS 800D (T7i) with a kit lens. If I purchase the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM, or the Canon EF-S 24mm f/2.8 STM lens for it, would I be able to take good nightscape images with this setup or do I need a much more expensive lens/camera to achieve good shots?
@@nightscapeimages.richard Wow, thank you for the quick reply! Is there a better budget lens that you would recommend, as I'm just starting out, or should I go for the 24mm f/2.8 I mentioned above?
@@Kk-wp5rl I'd suggest the Samyang 16mm f2 or maybe the Tokina 11-16 f2.8 These are wider angle and therefore will be easier to get a good composition, added to that is that you can extend the shutter speed more with wide angle lenses and still get good sharp stars.
Difficult question as the lenses are super important. Canon 80D, Canon 6D, Canon EOS-R. Nikon D7500, Nikon D750, Nikon Z6. Sony A6500, Sony A7iii, Sony A7s series. Obviously the larger sensor cameras will have the edge in low light shooting and less noise at high iso.
Thanks Richard, always a pleasure to see these and not long at all as it always keeps my interest. btw, I was able to get out and do my first star trails picture as a test a couple weeks ago, using your techniques I was really happy with how it turned out. I do have a question. I took 25 3 minute exposures with one second between each photo as required by the intervalometer. You can actually see a dark spot between each image in the trails -- giving a "dashed" appearanse to each line. I have a guess as to why it happens. I shot them at iso 200. I'm thinking at that low of an iso it just takes it a while for the sensor to aquire the light from the stars again, especially the dim stars. Is that correct, or is it just a consequence of multiple exposures for star trails? Thanks for any input you can give. Here's the image on flickr www.flickr.com/photos/russellmarwitz/49248273913/in/datetaken/.
Really appreciate you watching Russell. The gap between each star trail is a consequence of having multiple exposures, it is not dependent on iso or anything else. It may be that each exposure has a somewhat round edge rather than square edge also.
I have noticed that even you have a fast lens like 20mm f1.8 but when you come to shoot the milky way, you tend to stop down the aperture a bit. So what is the benefit of f1.8 in this case?
Yes I will often stop down the aperture to get a sharper image. That is the actual benefit of using an f1.8 lens. If I started at f2.8 I'd have to shoot wide open at f2.8.
Unfortunately some of us never see the core of the Milky Way. I live in Norway, and here the core never rise above the horizon. We are to far north. Also arond 6 months of the year we dont see any stars. Our nights are just to bright 🥺
@@peterlemke3468 Well, yes we have. Quite a lot of it actually. I guess thats why the core is for me, what the aurora is for so many others around the world. You want what you cant get 😊
I am from India... and I face problem of light pollution here...so could you help me out with it?? What is the solution for light pollution... I hardly see only 10-20 star's in sky.
@@Royalee46 It may do a little bit, but it's impossible to see the stars when there is so much light washing out the sky. Also, the vast majority of light pollution filters only work against the older orange street lights, the newer LED lights are a different colour.
Thanks for sharing the all that info in the Q & A Richard. I would’ve watched and commented earlier but I’m currently in Tassie filming and photographing with limited internet connection. Great video mate, look forward to Part 2 👍🙏
Hey Adrian, just a thought. Are you stopping by Melbourne airport by any chance on your return trip from Tassie ... ?? I know it's a long shot but it would be great to catch up for a coffee and chat.
Thanks so much for the mention Richard. Really appreciate you sharing our little course and I think your videos are awesome :)
Thanks mate. I think I got the name wrong but I reckon the message got across. Love your work and I hope the course is doing well.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Yah I'd love to make it back down under again but I'm too old and grumpy to handle that flight again.
@@fototripper I know the feeling. I did the Melbourne to London trip back in September. PS: I didn't think you were the grumpy one ...!!!
@@nightscapeimages.richard hahah. Richard you should totally add some content to the next update on our course. Get in touch if you're interested in coming on board.
I'd also wondered about your background. The quality of your videos is astonishingly good; now I know why. Thanks for imparting your years' of knowledge to the rest of us!
I'm really pleased you like the videos my friend, thanks so much for watching.
Just came back here again to refresh this valuable information.
👍👍👍
Richard, fabulous as always. Sending positive thoughts to you and your countrymen...Bruce
Really appreciate your kind thoughts Bruce
Wow the guys submitted some great questions for this. Thanks again for taking the time to help everyone. Looking forward to watching the next segment.
Really appreciate you watching Tony
Richard, re dew control, if you want to save some battery power, then get a controller (kendrick and others make them) that measures the lens temp and ambient temp and just supplies enough power to keep the temp about 3 degrees above ambient. Even better are the ones that calculate the dew point and just keep the lens just above dew point.
Love the videos,
cheers
Greg
Really good suggestions Greg. Thanks heaps for watching.
Thanks for sharing the all that info in the Q & A Richard. I would’ve watched and commented earlier but I’m currently in Tassie filming and photographing with limited internet connection. Great video mate, look forward to Part 2 👍🙏
Fantastic Richard - I never stop learning. Thanks for posting and taking the time to produce. It is great how you answer with in field examples and the actual items rather than just explaining. To use that old phrase a picture is worth a thousand words. Cheers
Thanks so much for watching and leaving the comments Tony, really appreciate that.
Great tips! Nicely done
Thanks very much for watching.
Richard, another great video. I truly appreciate the effort you put in to answer questions in the field. So much more informative than just talking about it. Looks like you also are getting some good topics for the future. Looking forward to part 2.
Thanks a lot for watching Garth, really appreciated.
Great video Richard and I am really looking forward to seeing videos like these!! A few observations on dew issues for the benefit of the viewers following my experience. If people shoot relatively short periods of time, then the dew warmers are generally not required, for instance if shooting is limited to a few shots or say something like 20 mins, assuming of course that the lens hood is always on and when people are not shooting that the lens cap is always on. Furthermore, night shooters should always pay attention to even a light breeze towards the front of the lens. In that case the lens warmers will not work and if someone wants to take a time lapse of star trails, then it is better to change the orientation of the camera away from the breeze. On the hand warmers also, they are of limited use as they usually work on our body if we move periodically. However, this will probably not be the case particularly when we fix the camera in position for some time.
Very good comments Thanos, really appreciate that. I don't think I mentioned about the dew point temperature also .. which is what determines the dew in the first place. Thanks so much for watching.
A great Q & A vlog with clear and concise answers. Thanks for taking the time to produce - look forward to the second instalment.
No worries mate, really appreciate your response.
Thanks Richard, for another great informative video.
Really appreciate that shastapaul, thank you.
Thanks for doing this video , great of you sharing your knowledge so generously .
My pleasure Orjan, thanks for watching.
Another very informative video Richard & some great useful information & hindsite. Well Done! Looking forward to part 2.😀👍
Thanks as always for watching Nash.
This is brilliant, Richard. I know that this is a video (and Part 2) that I'll be watching several times over. Great questions and great answers. This is a great idea for a video tutorial, and thanks so much for producing it and posting.
I'm pleased you found it useful Simon, as always thank you.
Thanks Richard. I saw this was going too be one of your longer videos but it flew by. Some fantastic questions and your answers were very helpful. I like starting the year off with a good Q&A video. Looking forward too part 2 and the 2020 night sky.
I think all of your video's are very good and the ones you do on post processing are very easy too understand and easy to execute with some basic knowledge of photoshop.
Really appreciated your participation Don, and thanks for watching the channel. Means a lot.
Great video on some of the questions that come up when outside taking night pictures
Always a treat to follow you on your adventures in night photography
Thanks so much for watching Peter, really appreciated.
I have one of these warmers. It works great, you have to double check your focus after wrapping it around the lens.
Thanks a lot for watching Bill. Yes very good point about checking focus.
This is excellent stuff Richard, many thanks.
I'm really pleased you like it my friend, thanks so much for the comment.
We haven’t had a chance to watch your video yet but I want you to know that my wife and I are hoping you are ok and not affected too adversely by the wildfires in Australia. You are in our thoughts and prayers.
Really appreciate that easy56wedge. The fires are quite severe but are a long way from where I live. Thanks for your concern.
Richard absolutely loved this Q & A, it was such a help!
Keep up the fantastic work, I for one really appreciate it👍🏻
Really appreciate you watching and I'm glad to hear that you enjoyed this video .. more to come.
Richard what a great video, Thank you
Looking forward to part 2
Thanks so much for watching Phillip
I look forward to part 2, thanks.
Appreciate you watching Steve.
A great practical video and answers clear and concise. Looking forward to part 2, your video was a welcome distraction at the moment. Stay safe down there.
Thanks as always Leigh. We are quite safe.
Thanks Richard for yet another insight into the world of nightscape images ,helped me a lot this year thanks again 👍
You're very welcome Brian, appreciate your participation.
Great information and explanations. Thanks!
Thanks so much for watching calline.
You know Richard one if the things I was struggling with especially winter here in Ireland is photographing the night sky without the MW core, you certainly have inspired me and Wendy to get out and photograph alternative compositions and parts of the night sky. Love the video and your equipment and techniques in capturing your images,especially the PANO.... Thank you once again for your kindness in sharing your work flow with us all.... Thank you once again 👍🙏
I'm really pleased it was helpful Royston. Really do appreciate you and Wendy's support.
@@nightscapeimages.richard You're most welcome Richard, it's you we have to thank... Look forward to Episode 2 🙏
Looking forward to these
Thank you Spence, I hope I do the questions justice.
Excellent Q&A, really enjoyed that, and learned a lot for future reference 👍🏼
Really appreciate you watching Neil
Well! Very good! And don’t worry as for video lasting forever, I would listen to you for hours ... you’re so interesting! Needless to say that I’ve watched that video a few times already and I will watch it many other times as well!
🤗😍🤗
Good on you Carole, thanks so much.
That was a fantastic video mate I am looking forward to part 2.
Thanks again for watching Brad
As always, simply brilliant
Thanks so much Chetan
Can't wait for part 2 👍
It's just a thought, but could Kim's problem be caused by a cheap torch with a poor quality beam possible not shone from enough of an angle. I've had torches in the past where you can see circles/rings in the beam?
Very good suggestion Ian, I think it's well worth investigating. I don't like torches that have hot spots in the centre and I know what you mean about the circles in the beam.
Love the concept Richard, very informative as usual
Thanks so much for watching Gary
Thanks for the Q&A Richard. Twenty two minutes is a bit long, but your presentation style is easy to watch and I stayed with it.
You mentioned Fototripper and Shainblum recently released video tutorial called "Milky Way Made Easy". I follow both those YT channels and both guys are really good.
I bought their course and here's my impression 1) There is lots of content, many hours; 2) It's well put together; 3) It covers a wide range of experience, really novice to more advanced; and 4) It might be a tad too expensive, unless you have zero experience shooting night sky. You will get a complete lesson from easy to complex techniques of shooting the night sky.
I've shot lots of night sky and did learn from their class.
Therefore, if you are a total newbie to night sky, it's worth the cost, if you have some experience, then you'll be paying for some content that you may not need.
Thanks for your insight Steve. I'm always conscious of the length of these videos but it's really hard to communicate lots of information quickly. I'm trying to give answers that will be helpful rather than being too general in content. I appreciate your feedback regarding the "Milky Way made Easy" .. as I haven't actually seen the content myself.
Not at all ! It's not too long but packed with a bucket full of very interesting answers.
@@hanswi336 Thanks a lot Hans
More good information Richard, I like the Q&A format since it answers some questions I had. I follow Shainblum & Hardcastle and have been considering their Milky Way Made Easy course but wondered if they will cover new information that you haven't covered already. I feel like I've learned so much from you that it might be repetitive, but then again, it might be worth it just for the laughs as they can be quite hilarious to watch! :)
I am truly saddened when I watch the news and see what's happening in Australia with the fires. Hopefully it will be controlled soon.
Thanks for your comments Paula. You will usually find that different people have differing methods of achieving the same end result. There is always something to learn. Yes Australia is really going through some troubling times at the moment with a couple of months of hot weather to come.
Excellent teaching session. I got a lot out of this. Looking forward to 2nd half>
Thanks my friend
Absolutely loved this Richard! Looking forward to part 2. 👌
Glad you liked it Mick. Thanks heaps
Great video! I know I'm chomping at the bit for a flash tutorial. For those that want a fast lens but don"t want to shell out a wheel barrow full of cash, don't dismiss the full manual offerings from Samyang/Rokinon. I pray you're safe from the fires.
Thanks a lot Bryan, yes I'll talk a bit more about lenses in Part 2. We are quite safe from the fires at present.
Thanks so much for another great video. Very informative, as usual.
Thanks very much Romaine.
Nightscape Images You’re most welcome.
ah mate 2020 and just great video us NIGHTSCAPERS love this stuff keep it goin richard looking forward to next 1 cheers an tea for now bobby j.
Good on you Bob, thanks a lot for watching.
Great Q/A bring on #2
Really appreciate you watching Jeff, thanks heaps.
Super QnA Richard some great answers to the questions posed, will be watching Part 2 for sure and the Vlog you suggested for kit lenses.
Really appreciate you watching and for your participation in part 2 Carl.
Nice one, Richard. I love that group selfies photos 😂😂
Thanks heaps for watching, really appreciated.
Group Selfie = Groupie. : )
Yet another great video Rich. I liked the practical approach to answer some questions. Look forward for part 2 soon. One other point you may want to touch upon, if possible, is to give tips on seeking permission with govt authorities to do night photo shoot.
Thanks so much for watching Madhusudhan. In Australia we don't have so much government control over access to land etc .. it's more private land holders. I always seek permission from farmers and land holders to shoot on their property.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Super. Lucky you! No authorities to deal with. 🙂
Great tips once again. Looking forward to do some panorama shots in Philippines later this month. Looking forward for part two. Cheers mate!!!
Thanks a lot Milorad, always appreciate your comments.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, that’s very helpful .
Thanks so much Minika
Magic ....😊👍🏻
Thanks for watching James
Thanks so much!!!!! From Greece !!
Thank you so much for watching.
Nice Q&A Richard..learnt a lot, as usual.
Many thanks indeed Mehmet, appreciate you watching.
Thank you Richard very informative as always, taking selfies is always been something I have steared clear of, I will bit the bullet one day. One thing that put me off going out for a shoot is overcast nights and the moon, just wondering what you game plan is when the moon or clouds are in the sky.
Thanks a lot Brett. I'm a bit like you about the moon, although I'm working on a video at present where I shot with about a 35% moon in the sky. If it's cloudy then I'll usually not bother unless there are clear breaks in the clouds.
I enjoyed that, it didn't seem like it was running too long at all.
Thanks a lot Allen. The next one is a bit longer.
Despite the slightly different format, I really enjoyed this one. I'm looking forward to part 2. It was interesting to hear you mention Peter Zelinka and GAvin HArdcastle, I follow both - Gavin mainly because his videos are just so funny. Do you ever collaborate with other photographers ?
Thanks a lot David. I talk with a lot of photographers but there are not many youtubers anywhere near me here.
love the video
Really appreciate that Garry
Thankyou Richard appreciated when the fires are over I will send and image
All good Kym
Missed this video last night while I was watching your old videos. My particular favorite is the junky spot with the chain in the tree. So much detail.
Thanks very much for watching Bruce, really appreciate your comments. I love that shot also.
Nice choice of questions and solid answers to them, once again a great video.
On the multi-row panos a point and a question. The point to note is that all the overlapping achieves a similar impact on noise reduction as stacking, so overlap more rather than less. The question is how do you process the rows, especially if the middle row is taken in a counter direction to the top and bottom? If you do them individually, what is your process through final stitching?
Thanks Steve. I find that if the individual images are well lit and exposed then the pano software can sort them out quite well. I've found it doesn't matter which order they were taken. Good point about the noise reduction as well.
@@nightscapeimages.richard I know the newest PTGui accepts all rows at once in a pano, not sure that the older version I have will, but I prefer to stay on PS. I haven't actually attempted a multi-row pano yet, something to try for 2020.
@@stevesag Go for it Steve
Great video Richard. What software out of the items you listed do you use for stitching panoramas?
Thanks a lot for watching. I've used Lightroom, Photoshop, PTgui and Microsoft ICE.
So a remote trigger is pretty essential then for light painting
I regard a remote shutter release as an essential part of my kit.
@@nightscapeimages.richard ill be investing, in a set
Learnt a few things here. Thanks! For the group photo shot at 18.06, I was surprised that it was a 20sec long...How on earth could all of you stay so still... especially for the lady beside you standing on a slightly inclined plane?
Thanks so much for your comments Raymond. Yes the secret to unlock night shots using flash is to use rear curtain sync settings. It freezes the last split second of the 20 sec exposure and though people may move slightly, the faces are always really clear. I will be doing another video on this procedure again as it can be quite difficult to grasp.
it's good work ! ! ! i don't speak and don't undestand very well english but i make a big effort to follw you on your video . . .it's very interesting
Thanks so much for watching. Really appreciate that.
Hi Richard...I come to your videos time and time again to re-visit some of your ideas and inspirations....I've got a bit of an SOS for you...in this Q & A video you talk about hooking up the jump starter battery to the lens warmer...I thought it woild be a good idea to try and get one of these to power the camera so I can shoot star trails all night long , the problem I'm having is that my camera, the Canon 6d, doesnt seem to have the connections to hook up to this sort of thing, I can't even connect it to a power bank...do you have any thoughts or suggestions?? And also, I can only seem to find 12v batts, not 9v. Cheers, Cat
Hey Carmel. Cameras don't have connections for these types of power banks. You need to search for a dedicated camera power supply. They are made but I can't remember the brand. In essence they have a dummy battery shape that fits in the camera battery space. Yes these car jump starters are all 12 volt power supply.
@@nightscapeimages.richard ok thanks Richard...hope you''re coping with the world the way it is?? Pretty crazy ey? Your videos certainly help pass the time!!
Cheers, Cat
Hugin is so good for panoramas!
Thanks for watching SafoCZ
Nevermind the fact that this guy is filming pretty beautiful video in the dark.
Thanks Dylan, I'll be doing a video in the future talking about that very topic.
Thanks Richard. I've loved your tutorials for some time now. Your Q&A video is a great idea. I have a question! Sometime ago you mentioned in one of your videos that you use an orange gel filter on your torch when light painting. Do you still use an orange gel filter and if so what number do you recommend?
Thanks so much for watching David. Yes I almost always use a 1/2 cto gel on my torch. The Australian part no is 205.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Thanks Richard. I'm on the hunt.
Great video, waiting for part 2. I have learned a lot from watching your videos, the one question I have is shooting in the big city (Light pollution) I live in the USA, near Providence Rhode Island south of Boston Massachusetts, outside of moving, any advice?
Thanks heaps for watching. Unfortunately there is no easy solution to the light pollution issue. You simply have to get away from it and for you that will mean travelling a long way. Fortunately for me it's not a major concern.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Thanks for the quick reply, I guess I'll be moving to Australia LOL
@@TruckerGrumpy Well it is very dark sky over here. Thanks again for watching.
Your not kidding the whole of the stretch from Boston to DC appears like a light trail from space.
The section on panoramas, how would I light the scene at the same time, when I need to do the panorama as quick as possible to avoid too much star movement
I think you have to be as quick as possible when doing panos so the lighting may be more generic .. (Simple)
@@nightscapeimages.richard ok thanks
If you have a chance , I would like to ask you to show how you do Polar Align in southern Hemisphere for star tracker. Looking forward to seeing that. Thanks.
Polar alignment isn't my strongest point. You can see my simple method for wide angle lenses here. ruclips.net/video/hxoA6AhHMoc/видео.html
Nightscape Images Thanks , I will check it out
what do you think about afs 24-120mm f4 lens for nightscape richard. should i buy another f1.8 or f2.8 lens
Hi Tanindo, I think the Nikon 24-120 f4 lens is a good general purpose lens but a bit of a compromise for nightscapes at f4. If I was buying a lens for nightscapes it would be f2.8 or better ... eg: f1.8 or f2 perhaps.
thanks from Spain
Really appreciate you watching GREGORIO
Very helfpul video!
I have a Canon EOS 800D (T7i) with a kit lens. If I purchase the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM, or the Canon EF-S 24mm f/2.8 STM lens for it, would I be able to take good nightscape images with this setup or do I need a much more expensive lens/camera to achieve good shots?
You'll be able to get good images with those lenses but the 50mm will be a bit tight to get a lot of foreground in the shot.
@@nightscapeimages.richard
Wow, thank you for the quick reply!
Is there a better budget lens that you would recommend, as I'm just starting out, or should I go for the 24mm f/2.8 I mentioned above?
@@Kk-wp5rl I'd suggest the Samyang 16mm f2 or maybe the Tokina 11-16 f2.8 These are wider angle and therefore will be easier to get a good composition, added to that is that you can extend the shutter speed more with wide angle lenses and still get good sharp stars.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Awesome! Thanks a lot for the suggestions, I'll look into those. Keep up the amazing content! :)
Hello. which camera is better to start star shooting? budget option, medium and professional?
Thank you!
Difficult question as the lenses are super important. Canon 80D, Canon 6D, Canon EOS-R. Nikon D7500, Nikon D750, Nikon Z6. Sony A6500, Sony A7iii, Sony A7s series. Obviously the larger sensor cameras will have the edge in low light shooting and less noise at high iso.
@@nightscapeimages.richard Thank you so much!
Hi fellow I've a z6 can you please recommend a auto wired or remote shutter release,
Thanks for watching zefram. I use and really like the Yongnuo rf603iii for Nikon.
@@nightscapeimages.richard I've also brought the samyang 14mm 2.8 I've seen a lot of Milky Way shots taken with lens
@@zefrem1 Yes that can be a really good option. Just make sure it is a good copy. They have had some issues with manufacturing quality control.
You might also want to check out the Hahnel Captur range. They do wired + wireless simple triggers and also timer modules (intervalometers).
@@peterlemke3468 thanks on the z6 the max time 30 seconds, using bulb mode with that hahnel device you can change for any exposure time?
Thanks Richard, always a pleasure to see these and not long at all as it always keeps my interest.
btw, I was able to get out and do my first star trails picture as a test a couple weeks ago, using your techniques I was really happy with how it turned out. I do have a question. I took 25 3 minute exposures with one second between each photo as required by the intervalometer. You can actually see a dark spot between each image in the trails -- giving a "dashed" appearanse to each line. I have a guess as to why it happens. I shot them at iso 200. I'm thinking at that low of an iso it just takes it a while for the sensor to aquire the light from the stars again, especially the dim stars. Is that correct, or is it just a consequence of multiple exposures for star trails? Thanks for any input you can give.
Here's the image on flickr www.flickr.com/photos/russellmarwitz/49248273913/in/datetaken/.
Really appreciate you watching Russell. The gap between each star trail is a consequence of having multiple exposures, it is not dependent on iso or anything else. It may be that each exposure has a somewhat round edge rather than square edge also.
I have noticed that even you have a fast lens like 20mm f1.8 but when you come to shoot the milky way, you tend to stop down the aperture a bit. So what is the benefit of f1.8 in this case?
Yes I will often stop down the aperture to get a sharper image. That is the actual benefit of using an f1.8 lens. If I started at f2.8 I'd have to shoot wide open at f2.8.
Nightscape Images oh it s clear. Thanks
I follow Gavin Hardcastle myself. Very good pointers about several things landscape related as well as astro. Fototripper is his channel.
He certainly is a character Spence ... !!!
Unfortunately some of us never see the core of the Milky Way. I live in Norway, and here the core never rise above the horizon. We are to far north. Also arond 6 months of the year we dont see any stars. Our nights are just to bright 🥺
It must be a very surreal experience when it never gets dark Torbjorn ....!!!
But you do have those fantastic northern lights.
@@peterlemke3468 Well, yes we have. Quite a lot of it actually. I guess thats why the core is for me, what the aurora is for so many others around the world. You want what you cant get 😊
There's still Kmart down under? All the US Kmarts went out of business.
Yes they are everywhere down here Genbu. Thanks for watching.
@@nightscapeimages.richard The two companes are not related and hasn’t been for a while.
Not all. They are still open in 37 states, Puerto Rico, the U.S. Virgin Islands, and Guam. ;)
@@pbsalfen and exiting their 2nd bankruptcy in the past few years.
I didn't even know you were doing this ..
Yes it's been in the works for a few weeks now Cliff.
Hopefully the fires haven’t affected you.Becare fun.
Thanks Jeffrey. The fires are a fair way away from us but we do have a couple of months of hot weather to negotiate yet. Appreciate your concern.
@@nightscapeimages.richard my sister lives near Mt Buffalo and and to evacuate. The fire is not that close but the smoke is very bad.
@@jss27560 Yes I did see that.
I am from India... and I face problem of light pollution here...so could you help me out with it?? What is the solution for light pollution... I hardly see only 10-20 star's in sky.
It is a great problem worldwide and unfortunately there is no solution to light pollution. All you can do is get as far away from it as possible.
@@nightscapeimages.richard thanks Richard sir for advice but applying light pollution filter to lense can help me out in this??
@@Royalee46 It may do a little bit, but it's impossible to see the stars when there is so much light washing out the sky. Also, the vast majority of light pollution filters only work against the older orange street lights, the newer LED lights are a different colour.
@@nightscapeimages.richard and sir one more question... which camera is good for astrophotography Nikon D750 or Sony Alpha 7ii ??
@@nightscapeimages.richard thanks sir I like your photography....and you are motivation for me....
Multi tasking not my greatest skills
Thanks for sharing the all that info in the Q & A Richard. I would’ve watched and commented earlier but I’m currently in Tassie filming and photographing with limited internet connection. Great video mate, look forward to Part 2 👍🙏
Thanks heaps for your comments Adrian. I absolutely love Tassie ..!!! Can't wait to see what you get down there.
Hey Adrian, just a thought. Are you stopping by Melbourne airport by any chance on your return trip from Tassie ... ?? I know it's a long shot but it would be great to catch up for a coffee and chat.