Thanks for watching my video! Want more Car Audio Videos? Here are some of my most popular videos and projects you can watch! 5 common NOOB Mistakes - ruclips.net/video/1FTsmUCbvoM/видео.html Amplifier Tuning How To - ruclips.net/video/tiOUd3NkOyQ/видео.html Custom A-Pillar Speakers - ruclips.net/video/neDSi4g1CeQ/видео.html 4 Mistakes that kill bass - ruclips.net/video/hXOnkOXvznI/видео.html How to Build a T-Line Subwoofer Box - ruclips.net/video/KuBTuUdy460/видео.html
I have 4 door speakers rated at 125 watts RMS and are 8 ohm. I bought a 4 channel amp that was supposed to be 150watt RMS per channel but actually are around 80 watt rms at 4 ohms. If I parallel the speakers to 4 ohms and bridged the 4 channel amp to 2 channels then how many watts am I going to get each speaker? Am I better off just running 1 speaker per channel?
A lot of youtube channels dont really answer questions that people have. Luckily there's a lot of information to all sorts of specific questions. You just have to be persistent in finding them.
thornygravy It's more a matter of him perfecting his trade.The guy is a master craftsmen with years of experience.He has all of the proper tools,know how and materials.Plus add in the fact that he does this for a living,day in and day out.
Jette Christensen Oh I have no doubt you can,anybody can(maybe not anybody).I really just enjoy watching his videos for entertainment purposes.I would never take my installs to these levels nor would I spend the money on the needed equipment. An average Joe like me who enjoys car audio on the side can build a great system from the ground up with a 3rd of the tools Mark uses.It won't be nearly as pretty but it can sound just as good.
You truly love what you do, and your work speaks it. I wish more installers would take the time to learn not just installation, but the acoustics behind the installation as you do. You have set the bar even higher! This is amazing work! Thank you for showing us would can be done!
again another quality video ..I'm in the process of upgrading my mid and hi range speakers .. instead of bugging my installer buddies I just watch your tutorials. . a1 advice and I thank you for making my car audio installations the best they can be
Crutchfield and Amazon both sell the Roadkill FAST foam baffle rings from Stinger that will act as a foam enclosure to direct your speaker sound outward. They're $25 a pair unless on sale. It's not the full mod effort CAF shows here but it'll help focus sound forward. I'd also suggest adding some sound deadening material behind the woofer cone somewhere. You may not care about road noise but it'll help quite a bit to dampen sound LEAVING your car, redirecting it toward the rider(s) and helping reduce the exterior noise so people outside aren't overly disturbed by your audio. If you have limited supply of dampening material, apply the most BEHIND the speaker so that you're at least dampening and redirecting sound where the source is. It'll be best to apply throughout each door your speaker is mounted but localizing it is always the most effective application when working without an excess of materials. Thanks to CAF for all these tutorials. Learning plenty on the manufacturing side of the car audio process that I didn't know would make such a big difference.
I just made some adapters out of mdf for my rear door speakers. Was feeling nice, about to seal up and mount the door panel for the last time, then I saw this vid... dam!! I am going to redo everything....
I did something similar except for the fact that my stock pioneer speakers were Integrated with the bracket aka basket. So I cut off the speaker off the bracketwith a dremel ,RIP pioneer speaker, Used the stock foam cushion, and mated the new kicker speaker to the factory basket and connectors . The new speaker looks and sounds great . This video gave a thee idea 💡! Thanks
Nice addition with the foam. We would always space the speaker until it was as close to the panel without touching as possible so you wouldn't get any refraction from being recessed so much though the foam should absorb any soundwaves as opposed to reflecting them. Good work.
You're living the dream. I've always had a goal of creating a car stereo that rivals a home stereo in clarity and imaging. It looks like you've got the techniques to achieve such a reality. Nice.
You are welcome! Thanks for watching! This is a perfect example of how installing something correctly and taking the time for a few extra steps can really pay off.
+Sean B Thanks Sean! If you would like to help support the making of the videos check out my Patreon site: www.patreon.com/caraudiofabrication If you can't afford it no big deal just thought I would ask! Thanks for watching.
Installed these in my MK4 jetta - have Polk MM6501 and thought they were good - WOW I cant believe the difference just adding these little pieces of foam made - unreal! so much mid bass now
Great video CAF. This will certainly make the sound quality from the RE Audio component speakers even better, when I install them into my vehicle. Robert Coffey you made an excellent point about the screws. Without your imput I would have used the standard screws which could have been bad news for the speakers, so thank you.
Those factory speakers adapters were way nicer than any truck I've owned or had the door panels off of... Way nicer. My stock speakers on all my vehicles didn't have fancy composite spacers and foam trim pieces. Nope. Just built in metal brackets that were part of the inner door structure and no foam, just the cheap paper cone speakers. Hecho en Mexico. Lol.
from watching this video (excellent content btw) I've used the foam rings in my door speakers and they make a great job of cleaning up any remaining distortion or vibration transfered into the door card, sound deadening and foam rings are an absolute must for quality sound before anything else.
I'm for sure making these. I can use the same items in description and follow each step exactly except i'm gonna have to put together 2 rings of 3/4" HDPE since my factory speaker mount is bigger than the one in the video. Also, my factory speaker is about 1/4 inch shorter than the focal aftermarkets i'm installing. that will give me 1.75" to work with and the glass shouldn't touch the speaker.
The one thing I didn't do when I replaced my stock speakers was use a foam surround. I sealed the speaker, used 2 layers of dynamat both inside and outer side of door to seal it up from back waves. Got the JL Audio C3 600 speakers and they don't have much mid bass.
People saying you're jealous of tools and the talent- you can get there too! It doesn't come overnight. It's late nights spent reading and reading and collecting used tools as you go. Trial and error after error after error.
I enjoy all of CAF videos! I'll request that some videos be done with the items normal people like me have. One piece of plywood, some screws and maybe $100 to invest at a hardware store and/or audio store. Implying we already have speakers, power to the rear and some sort of amp.
this channel really really makes me want to get into audio fabrication, however, I don't really want to do too much to my speakers... till my truck actually goes in reverse.
I did this...made a world of difference on the mid bass output of my jl c-250 6.5's in the doors of my hrv, it looked like the foam was sticking out way too far, but the door panels went back on no problem
It is so true, not that you need my approval of course. One thing I've done that I do with Hi-Fi speaker builds is using speaker mounting tape aka speaker culke. Along with sound treating the surfaces it makes a difference(If clearance is an issue then this could help too for £3-4 at loudspeakerfreaks) Great video as always :)
first time doing this kind of install. I just got some hertz components speakers and I want to make sure I get all of my money's worth out of these speakers. going to take my time with this install.
I'm going to try this for my new 6.5s. It can be done just takes some time. Im pumped I want that full mid bass!! I have a dremel with all the attachments.
Wd40 is the worst thing to use for lubing any kind of cutting tool! Makes the cutting sheer slip and prevents it from cutting .for max cutting yields use cutting tool oil! Special friction modifiers help get a good bite on the cut while keeping the bit cool. Just an fyi! Love your vedios!👍
This is an awesome video but ,in case you guys dont have these tools you can always order specifically made brackets for your vehicle, and use these techniques. some speakers comes with foam and you can always add sound damping material. Theres many custom made brackets for sale, on metra or cruthfield
Awesome Video! I'm plagued with terrible mid bass in my Silverado. Huge dead spots makes almost an anti-sound tone. It's the oddest thing I've ever heard.
You really followed this and did exactly what he did? I'm only asking because I'd love to be able to do this but these all look like expensive tools that take up room and i live in a condo. Lol
Just in time.. Great Tips. Getting ready for an install in my 2013 F-150. Now if I can just find the Illumination Wire for the radio. Good by Basic sync audio system.
Is there a sound difference between foam speaker baffles and the open door with kill mat? Which sounds better. I am wondering about the foam baffles for my 6x9 door speakers but wondering if it will limit their sound output vs the open matted door enclosure. You are definitely right about the outside foam ring being necessary. Made a big difference for me.
, please make sure to Dynamat the door panels as well. INSIDE & OUTSIDE.!!!!! If you can't get to the inside, they make a spray, just be sure to roll up your window !!!!!
Salute!/, big ups to you my good brother, i definitely want to say. I appreciate your O,bsessive C,reative D,esigns 👌 👍. I've been installing since early 2000's. Home audio,,structured cabling. I do few car audio installs a year. You've got a great approach to your skill. I like that you give a great review and recommend tools you use. And you've definitely mastered explaining. You've got a lot of work involved in these vids,, much appreciated bro! And, I recommend you specifically for that!, Peace to you&yours, *****like***** lol 😎 ✌️
can you further explain mid bass (no bullet) speakers and midrange speakers (bullet). if you can compare witch is best to use for certain applications.
Mark I have another question... the 95 Mustang uses 5x7 oval speakers in the front doors, can you show how to make an adapter that will allow a 6.5 round speaker to work in this location??? thanks
i have a question i used to install car audio in the past .and i believe that copper was a better conductor then stainless steel wire i lately attend a car show here in philly there was some guys that told me their running stainless steel braided wire in their cars and it's better than copper .so which one is a better conductor?
are there any merits to a dedicated mid bass woofer? if you have the right amp settings would this be worth while? going to attempt this door panel fab this spring
Instead of using the cut foam ring for the back side, is speaker gasket tape just as effective? Or does the foam ring move into the door panel? I am assuming it is squished to provide a seal. is this correct?
hi, nice video. I like the way you tell. I searched your videos, i can't find a tutorial about how to put the speaker cableS though the door. I think there are many people who want to drive 2 ways or 3 ways actively. That means you have to put 6 cables through each front door. Now the most new cars use combi-adapter on the door, so that you can't squeeze the cable through the tunnel as the old time. Would you like to make a tutorial how to solve this problem. Thanks for the video and regards
When I was competing in IASCA SQ competition mid bass seemed to be the thing most installs didn't have enough of and impressed judges the most. A big factor seemed to be power, too many dedicated all their amplifier watts to their subs and didn't allocate enough for their front stage woofers- which often require up to 150w a side to get a lot of punch. The 6.5" components (old school Soundstream Exact) in fiberglass kickpods in my current install get 120w per channel and could do better but it's all I have from the a/d/s P840 I use.
I think mid bass is one of the most important things for tying everything together. Its easy to have bright sound as tweeters require no power to be screaming, but to warm things up and couple everything together you really need that mid bass, and as always, the install makes a huge difference.
CarAudioFabrication I guess it doesn't help that manufacturers of component speaker systems are very ambiguous about recommending the best enclosures, when you buy subs they are very detailed about what size box to build or what type it should be- installing 5.25's or 6.5's seems to be pure hit or miss. Screwed to a door with an open back, put into an enclosed kick pod, who knows?
For $3500 MSRP I'd hope so.... :-) never owned any alpine speakers, have had some of their source units and amps in the '80's...back when there was alpine then there was everything else below them. When "enough mid bass" seemed to be 13's in kick panels (femi adeoke's gran prix, earl zausmer's BMW) I quit competing.
Good job. But did you use sealing tape between the speaker and the HDPE? Or do the speakers come with their own seals? Just asking because iIts an enty point for water...
Thanks for the info, I'm preparing to install my front components this week and my local Car AV shop sold me a silicone baffle set exactly like the NVX XBAF65 set instead of those FAST rings, I was wondering if they will work the same or the foam is a better material to seal and direct the sound out. Part of me is worried that all the snow we have for half of the year will affect and rot the foam. I do already have a sub in the back and might return these baffles and put that money to some SoundSkins sound mat if it's a more noticeable improvement over the baffle. Thank you for your help and advice in this channel. I'm asking you because I trust your advice more than armchair audio "experts" online and the salespeople at my local shops.
Nice job 👌,.. how do we know when it’s a foam that reflects sound waves and when it’s a foam that absorbs sound waves and in what car audio application do we want to reflect vs want to absorb sound?
01:00 You talked about how the speakers come spaced to give space for the window mechanism. But then proceeded to put a huge piece of foam on the back of the speaker. Lol
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for watching my video! Want more Car Audio Videos? Here are some of my most popular videos and projects you can watch!
5 common NOOB Mistakes - ruclips.net/video/1FTsmUCbvoM/видео.html
Amplifier Tuning How To - ruclips.net/video/tiOUd3NkOyQ/видео.html
Custom A-Pillar Speakers - ruclips.net/video/neDSi4g1CeQ/видео.html
4 Mistakes that kill bass - ruclips.net/video/hXOnkOXvznI/видео.html
How to Build a T-Line Subwoofer Box - ruclips.net/video/KuBTuUdy460/видео.html
You do installs? What state is your shop in?
Thanks. I'm gonna check out #3 & #4 right now!
How desing a sobwoofer box of 12 inch ported?
I have 4 door speakers rated at 125 watts RMS and are 8 ohm. I bought a 4 channel amp that was supposed to be 150watt RMS per channel but actually are around 80 watt rms at 4 ohms. If I parallel the speakers to 4 ohms and bridged the 4 channel amp to 2 channels then how many watts am I going to get each speaker? Am I better off just running 1 speaker per channel?
A lot of youtube channels dont really answer questions that people have. Luckily there's a lot of information to all sorts of specific questions. You just have to be persistent in finding them.
Man this has to be one of the best speaker plate fabrication videos that I've seen. Keep up the good work boss!
MAY03LT thanks for your good work on Z71 bro...much appreciated
I'm so jealous of all the tools and material this dude has..
I'm jealous of his talent. I'd spend the money on the tools if I had half his talent...
I was just thinking the same thing..
thornygravy It's more a matter of him perfecting his trade.The guy is a master craftsmen with years of experience.He has all of the proper tools,know how and materials.Plus add in the fact that he does this for a living,day in and day out.
Since this comment, I own a lot of the tools lol.
Jette Christensen Oh I have no doubt you can,anybody can(maybe not anybody).I really just enjoy watching his videos for entertainment purposes.I would never take my installs to these levels nor would I spend the money on the needed equipment.
An average Joe like me who enjoys car audio on the side can build a great system from the ground up with a 3rd of the tools Mark uses.It won't be nearly as pretty but it can sound just as good.
You truly love what you do, and your work speaks it. I wish more installers would take the time to learn not just installation, but the acoustics behind the installation as you do. You have set the bar even higher! This is amazing work! Thank you for showing us would can be done!
again another quality video ..I'm in the process of upgrading my mid and hi range speakers .. instead of bugging my installer buddies I just watch your tutorials. . a1 advice and I thank you for making my car audio installations the best they can be
Crutchfield and Amazon both sell the Roadkill FAST foam baffle rings from Stinger that will act as a foam enclosure to direct your speaker sound outward. They're $25 a pair unless on sale. It's not the full mod effort CAF shows here but it'll help focus sound forward. I'd also suggest adding some sound deadening material behind the woofer cone somewhere. You may not care about road noise but it'll help quite a bit to dampen sound LEAVING your car, redirecting it toward the rider(s) and helping reduce the exterior noise so people outside aren't overly disturbed by your audio. If you have limited supply of dampening material, apply the most BEHIND the speaker so that you're at least dampening and redirecting sound where the source is. It'll be best to apply throughout each door your speaker is mounted but localizing it is always the most effective application when working without an excess of materials.
Thanks to CAF for all these tutorials. Learning plenty on the manufacturing side of the car audio process that I didn't know would make such a big difference.
I just made some adapters out of mdf for my rear door speakers. Was feeling nice, about to seal up and mount the door panel for the last time, then I saw this vid... dam!! I am going to redo everything....
I did something similar except for the fact that my stock pioneer speakers were Integrated with the bracket aka basket. So I cut off the speaker off the bracketwith a dremel ,RIP pioneer
speaker, Used the stock foam cushion, and mated the new kicker speaker to the factory basket and connectors . The new speaker looks and sounds great .
This video gave a thee idea 💡!
Thanks
I feel like the router is the single most important tool in your shop!
Nice addition with the foam. We would always space the speaker until it was as close to the panel without touching as possible so you wouldn't get any refraction from being recessed so much though the foam should absorb any soundwaves as opposed to reflecting them. Good work.
You're living the dream. I've always had a goal of creating a car stereo that rivals a home stereo in clarity and imaging. It looks like you've got the techniques to achieve such a reality. Nice.
Installation is everything and your tips help me get better every time I watch them. Thanks!
You are welcome! Thanks for watching! This is a perfect example of how installing something correctly and taking the time for a few extra steps can really pay off.
I have been watching your videos now for a year. The content is very good . Thanks for the time you take to produce these videos
Incredibly informative for a car audio enthusiast/green horn. The quality of your builds are second to none!
You have some of the best tutorials I've seen, good job.
+Sean B Thanks Sean! If you would like to help support the making of the videos check out my Patreon site: www.patreon.com/caraudiofabrication If you can't afford it no big deal just thought I would ask! Thanks for watching.
@@CarAudioFabrication can you do my doors
Installed these in my MK4 jetta - have Polk MM6501 and thought they were good - WOW I cant believe the difference just adding these little pieces of foam made - unreal! so much mid bass now
Great video CAF. This will certainly make the sound quality from the RE Audio component speakers even better, when I install them into my vehicle. Robert Coffey you made an excellent point about the screws. Without your imput I would have used the standard screws which could have been bad news for the speakers, so thank you.
Wow your techniques seem flawless!! Simply amazing
Those factory speakers adapters were way nicer than any truck I've owned or had the door panels off of... Way nicer. My stock speakers on all my vehicles didn't have fancy composite spacers and foam trim pieces. Nope. Just built in metal brackets that were part of the inner door structure and no foam, just the cheap paper cone speakers. Hecho en Mexico. Lol.
from watching this video (excellent content btw) I've used the foam rings in my door speakers and they make a great job of cleaning up any remaining distortion or vibration transfered into the door card, sound deadening and foam rings are an absolute must for quality sound before anything else.
I thought I had done well making MDF spacer rings for my focal 165 k2 es kit. this guy is a Brill 👍♥️
Great install. Learned a lot. Wish we had installers like you down here. Wish you would do courses on this, especially wiring.
Wow. Awesome fabrication and installation, all in the name of good sound. I love this channel.
I'm for sure making these. I can use the same items in description and follow each step exactly except i'm gonna have to put together 2 rings of 3/4" HDPE since my factory speaker mount is bigger than the one in the video. Also, my factory speaker is about 1/4 inch shorter than the focal aftermarkets i'm installing. that will give me 1.75" to work with and the glass shouldn't touch the speaker.
Looks like I have a area on my Beetle to redo now. Defiantly getting a set of those foam rings I bet that will help out my JLs a lot.
The one thing I didn't do when I replaced my stock speakers was use a foam surround.
I sealed the speaker, used 2 layers of dynamat both inside and outer side of door to seal it up from back waves. Got the JL Audio C3 600 speakers and they don't have much mid bass.
People saying you're jealous of tools and the talent- you can get there too! It doesn't come overnight. It's late nights spent reading and reading and collecting used tools as you go. Trial and error after error after error.
Hell yeah for Focal Access! I have the 2014's in my Scion FRS, I love them! Amped on a JL Audio HD600/4
I enjoy all of CAF videos! I'll request that some videos be done with the items normal people like me have. One piece of plywood, some screws and maybe $100 to invest at a hardware store and/or audio store. Implying we already have speakers, power to the rear and some sort of amp.
We did this in the past several times and they were some of our worst performing videos. We can't justify making those videos.
this channel really really makes me want to get into audio fabrication, however, I don't really want to do too much to my speakers... till my truck actually goes in reverse.
I did this...made a world of difference on the mid bass output of my jl c-250 6.5's in the doors of my hrv, it looked like the foam was sticking out way too far, but the door panels went back on no problem
It is so true, not that you need my approval of course. One thing I've done that I do with Hi-Fi speaker builds is using speaker mounting tape aka speaker culke. Along with sound treating the surfaces it makes a difference(If clearance is an issue then this could help too for £3-4 at loudspeakerfreaks) Great video as always :)
best channel on you tube for car audio hands down great job man count me as a subscriber for life
I was right thinking about to increase my installation quality when found your awesome video! Thanks!
first time doing this kind of install. I just got some hertz components speakers and I want to make sure I get all of my money's worth out of these speakers. going to take my time with this install.
I'm going to try this for my new 6.5s. It can be done just takes some time. Im pumped I want that full mid bass!! I have a dremel with all the attachments.
Yes i agree. This guy is the best of best. Along with Doug Benards and Steve
Wd40 is the worst thing to use for lubing any kind of cutting tool! Makes the cutting sheer slip and prevents it from cutting .for max cutting yields use cutting tool oil! Special friction modifiers help get a good bite on the cut while keeping the bit cool. Just an fyi! Love your vedios!👍
These foam installations makes all the difference in the sounds quality before and after.
This is an awesome video but ,in case you guys dont have these tools you can always order specifically made brackets for your vehicle, and use these techniques. some speakers comes with foam and you can always add sound damping material. Theres many custom made brackets for sale, on metra or cruthfield
A true professional at work
I can't wait to stArt working on my 4runner sound system. I save this video for future use.
I'm blown away by his dedication
Great video,hopefully you continue your videos ,since quality installs are far and in between in today's market ...Best of Luck
Awesome Video! I'm plagued with terrible mid bass in my Silverado. Huge dead spots makes almost an anti-sound tone. It's the oddest thing I've ever heard.
High quality work, really well thought out and executed.
*Turns to look at my crudely made wooden brackets.
*Tear rolls down cheek.
Connor Sykes Same...
*tear rolls down cheek falling onto bracket. Tear soaks into the MDF and destroys bracket
😂
Pretty much the same for me
@@esigman1 HAHAHA
Good job, sir. Now I'm curious about how the door panel reinstall goes since more bulk was added to the door skin. Please explain. Thanks!
Do you have a trick how to measure how thick foam you can have between the speaker and door panel before it bends when you put the panel back on?
Wow never put a thought into anything you mentioned... Great video and Ill put it into practice on my car... Thanks
In case you can’t get the materials or don’t have all of these tools… can you do the same with MDF or HDF and foam tapes?
This video was excellent in helping me add a lot of mid bass in my Silverado.
You really followed this and did exactly what he did? I'm only asking because I'd love to be able to do this but these all look like expensive tools that take up room and i live in a condo. Lol
Very awesome training video. Thank you
Just in time.. Great Tips. Getting ready for an install in my 2013 F-150.
Now if I can just find the Illumination Wire for the radio. Good by Basic sync audio system.
dude that install was clean. Master MECP
silentscribes Someday! Thanks for watching.
What did you guys use to secure the new bracket to the door? What type of nuts and bolts?
You are a perfectionist I would love this standard of install in my truck
Why do you cut down the ring in back instead of leaving in full? I am doing same in mine and have same items. Thnaks for posting
Is there a sound difference between foam speaker baffles and the open door with kill mat? Which sounds better. I am wondering about the foam baffles for my 6x9 door speakers but wondering if it will limit their sound output vs the open matted door enclosure. You are definitely right about the outside foam ring being necessary. Made a big difference for me.
Haha, my jigsaw is such a pos, it has two settings, on and off..
😂😂😂
, please make sure to Dynamat the door panels as well. INSIDE & OUTSIDE.!!!!! If you can't get to the inside, they make a spray, just be sure to roll up your window !!!!!
Completely new to car audio, great info on this channel.👍
Salute!/, big ups to you my good brother, i definitely want to say.
I appreciate your O,bsessive C,reative D,esigns 👌 👍. I've been installing since early 2000's. Home audio,,structured cabling. I do few car audio installs a year. You've got a great approach to your skill. I like that you give a great review and recommend tools you use.
And you've definitely mastered explaining. You've got a lot of work involved in these vids,, much appreciated bro! And, I recommend you specifically for that!,
Peace to you&yours, *****like***** lol 😎 ✌️
can you further explain mid bass (no bullet) speakers and midrange speakers (bullet). if you can compare witch is best to use for certain applications.
Would you recommend using the boom mat speaker baffle???
Great video. That is the way an instructional video should be. Would love to hear the finally result. Keep up the good work. Again, exceptional video.
Damn, car audio done right like that is way too much work for my lazy ass. Nice job.
Mark I have another question... the 95 Mustang uses 5x7 oval speakers in the front doors, can you show how to make an adapter that will allow a 6.5 round speaker to work in this location??? thanks
wonderful install man.
I love your high level of care and duplication
i have a question i used to install car audio in the past .and i believe that copper was a better conductor then stainless steel wire i lately attend a car show here in philly there was some guys that told me their running stainless steel braided wire in their cars and it's better than copper .so which one is a better conductor?
are there any merits to a dedicated mid bass woofer? if you have the right amp settings would this be worth while?
going to attempt this door panel fab this spring
i think im a do some research for a while before i make any decisions - looks like theres a lot to learn
Awesome vid, very useful. Will be using this technique when I re-do my front doors!
Instead of using the cut foam ring for the back side, is speaker gasket tape just as effective? Or does the foam ring move into the door panel? I am assuming it is squished to provide a seal. is this correct?
hi, nice video. I like the way you tell. I searched your videos, i can't find a tutorial about how to put the speaker cableS though the door. I think there are many people who want to drive 2 ways or 3 ways actively. That means you have to put 6 cables through each front door. Now the most new cars use combi-adapter on the door, so that you can't squeeze the cable through the tunnel as the old time. Would you like to make a tutorial how to solve this problem. Thanks for the video and regards
Would using polyethylene foam be used as a gasket to reduce vibration?
An oldie but goodie!
Great video! Sound Connection is a great car audio shop!
You sir are PRO! Wish you lived near me.
do u guys have any videos for rear speaker installs ?
i wish u put in audio samples, and what brand midbase speaker is that?
Can u do a video on farad caps how they work an the difference between them number wise
Can you do this same video but with 6x8, 6x9....pretty much the oval speaker family..I have 6x8 for a 2004 ford ranger. Thanks!!
serious attention to detail! Great vid
When I was competing in IASCA SQ competition mid bass seemed to be the thing most installs didn't have enough of and impressed judges the most. A big factor seemed to be power, too many dedicated all their amplifier watts to their subs and didn't allocate enough for their front stage woofers- which often require up to 150w a side to get a lot of punch.
The 6.5" components (old school Soundstream Exact) in fiberglass kickpods in my current install get 120w per channel and could do better but it's all I have from the a/d/s P840 I use.
I think mid bass is one of the most important things for tying everything together. Its easy to have bright sound as tweeters require no power to be screaming, but to warm things up and couple everything together you really need that mid bass, and as always, the install makes a huge difference.
CarAudioFabrication I guess it doesn't help that manufacturers of component speaker systems are very ambiguous about recommending the best enclosures, when you buy subs they are very detailed about what size box to build or what type it should be- installing 5.25's or 6.5's seems to be pure hit or miss. Screwed to a door with an open back, put into an enclosed kick pod, who knows?
In my last SQ car I ran 100 watt's to each of my F#1 3way's a side. I got great mid bass score's
For $3500 MSRP I'd hope so.... :-) never owned any alpine speakers, have had some of their source units and amps in the '80's...back when there was alpine then there was everything else below them. When "enough mid bass" seemed to be 13's in kick panels (femi adeoke's gran prix, earl zausmer's BMW) I quit competing.
Would you still use the foam dampener if you have sound treated the door?
Good job. But did you use sealing tape between the speaker and the HDPE? Or do the speakers come with their own seals? Just asking because iIts an enty point for water...
What about a foam piece that goes between the speaker and the HDPE?
My bracket was pretty flush. So I just screwed my speaker to the door. Would I benefit from adding the abs?
Thanks for the info, I'm preparing to install my front components this week and my local Car AV shop sold me a silicone baffle set exactly like the NVX XBAF65 set instead of those FAST rings, I was wondering if they will work the same or the foam is a better material to seal and direct the sound out.
Part of me is worried that all the snow we have for half of the year will affect and rot the foam. I do already have a sub in the back and might return these baffles and put that money to some SoundSkins sound mat if it's a more noticeable improvement over the baffle.
Thank you for your help and advice in this channel. I'm asking you because I trust your advice more than armchair audio "experts" online and the salespeople at my local shops.
Fantástico trabalho. Parabéns. Um bom profissional.
Very informative video Mark. Great job!
Focal speakers are awesome...
Nice job 👌,.. how do we know when it’s a foam that reflects sound waves and when it’s a foam that absorbs sound waves and in what car audio application do we want to reflect vs want to absorb sound?
Mark what is you opinion on speaker baffles for the door or rear speakers?
Fantastic stuff, subbed!
Thank you! Glad to have you aboard!
Omg a hat AND sunglasses?? You are so cool
01:00 You talked about how the speakers come spaced to give space for the window mechanism. But then proceeded to put a huge piece of foam on the back of the speaker. Lol
Which can then be simply trimmed as needed 🤔
Great workmanship, a lot of unnecessary work though. Plus although you added a foam rin on the back, you didnt seal the black plate against the door.
So what did it do? Did it sound better? Was there more base? Was the improvement’s worth the effort?