Excellent, well informative and enjoyable video. I did mine 2 years ago as the water pump failed but now having to do it again this week as the pump has failed again🤬.
Hello, Thanks for this video. I learned a lot of things. However, I can't understand how do you loosen the timing belt at the tensioner roller? Can you reply please? Question: I would like to examine my water pump because unfortunately I found iron filings on the drain plug of my aluminum Direnza radiator. Is it possible to change only the water pump? (the distribution kit less than 1 year old). Thanks.
Hi you simply undo it at pull the tensioner back , u should always replace at least the timing belt if you are going to take it off to do the pump mate
Hey, there is the two idlers, the righ one is metal, the left one is plastic. Does it matter if you put for example, the metal left, and the plastic on the right? Because my old timing setup was left-metal, right-plastic... 🤔
By my logic, the right should be metal I think, it's closer to the exhaust and presumably hotter... This could be complete bullshit though, do your own research.
@@diydaly just fitted it now, never done one before but have good mechanical skill as a hobby, I presume when you turn it over by hand the tensioner where it points to new or old belt moves around until it’s too centre again?
Hi - I am in the middle of doing the same job and have encountered an issue with the tensioner. No matter how I try, I can't get the pointer to actually move to align with the required mark when I turn the adjuster anti-clockwise. Any thoughts on what I could be doing wrong ?
@@diydaly Thanks - yes, the tab is definitely in the recessed hole and I have the torx bolt tightened by hand for the initial pre-tension. When holding the bolt steady whilst turning the adjuster anti-clockwise the pointer does not move at all. I tried the old tensioner and had the same issue, so am thinking user error on my part.
@@diydaly Ok - I'll give that a go. Someone has suggested that I may have rounded off the hex inside the tensioner. Does that make any sense to you ? Thank you for all your help !!!
Hi Mejo! im afraid im not doing any extra work at the minute, im currently working full time whilst building a garage & trying to keep the family happy too! 🤣😬
Hey Mate, Need your expertise on this. I got the old belt off. timed up to TDC, locking tool in cams. Started raining so thought I’ll finish it tomorrow. Put the wheel back on and lowered it to the ground. Jacked it up today and took wheel off ready to install the new belt. And I see the crank has moved 2 teeth clockwise ( away from the cut out… however the cams above are all locked via the tool , haven’t moved. So am I right in saying I just need to put a 17mm on the crank and turn slightly anti clockwise back in line with the cut out? Many thanks
Yeah just simply move it back to position that’s all mate 👍 I’m guessing your car was in gear and when you’ve put the wheels on etc that’s what’s moved it
Wow what a pain the ass it is getting the new belt on. It has almost next to no stretch ness to manipulate over any of the pulleys. Tried your way of fitting it all the way around and leaving inlet cam last, but still a massive struggle to slide it over the cam, ( even with the tensioner fully slack. I did mark the waterpump roughly where the notch - do you reckon the cause for it being so hard to get over due to the waterpump pulley being out of alignment ?
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Explained this well with all info needed, appreciate the help!
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent, well informative and enjoyable video. I did mine 2 years ago as the water pump failed but now having to do it again this week as the pump has failed again🤬.
Thanks for the comment , much appreciated ! Lol bet you was gutted!!
Any idea what make the pump was? i get mine changed every four years with the cambelt and only use genuine VX, so far so good, twelve years in.
I’ve brought a skf water pump from nevlock for my zafira gsi there better then the original
We need more legends like you in this world, appreciate all the effort you put into making this video 🙌🏼
Thanks for the comment, much appreciated 😁 glad to help 👌👍
Ez to learn , you can be a legend too
Tensioner clockwise when final tightening
Thanks, this helped me alot with doing i had never dared to do before, but had to this time around. Thanks
Glad to help! Thanks for the comments.. much appreciated 👍👍👌
Great video , looks similar to a c20xe/c20let engine
Thanks 😁👍
Hi.im in Swaziland where can I get mine done.anyone maybe in South Africa
Great video explained really well 👍
Glad it was helpful! Thanks
Hello,
Thanks for this video. I learned a lot of things.
However, I can't understand how do you loosen the timing belt at the tensioner roller? Can you reply please?
Question:
I would like to examine my water pump because unfortunately I found iron filings on the drain plug of my aluminum Direnza radiator.
Is it possible to change only the water pump? (the distribution kit less than 1 year old).
Thanks.
Hi you simply undo it at pull the tensioner back , u should always replace at least the timing belt if you are going to take it off to do the pump mate
Hey, there is the two idlers, the righ one is metal, the left one is plastic. Does it matter if you put for example, the metal left, and the plastic on the right? Because my old timing setup was left-metal, right-plastic... 🤔
Wouldn’t like to say without looking tbh , are they exactly the same size diameter and is the mounting spacing the same?
By my logic, the right should be metal I think, it's closer to the exhaust and presumably hotter... This could be complete bullshit though, do your own research.
Thanks for this video pal! Going to be doing mine this weekend top man
Thanks for the comment , glad to help 👍
@@diydaly just fitted it now, never done one before but have good mechanical skill as a hobby, I presume when you turn it over by hand the tensioner where it points to new or old belt moves around until it’s too centre again?
@@williamyoulad7064 yeah it will move abit , nothing to worry about 👍
Nice one pal!
@@williamyoulad7064 👍
Great video sharing thanks
Thanks Alexander 😁
Great job👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you! 👍 comments much appreciated 😃
it would be great if you could do a video on a ford focus 1.6 mk2.5 2010 petrol car. By the way that was a great video
Thanks for the comment mark , I’ve done a focus vid ruclips.net/video/jTAVM75YiwI/видео.html 👌👍
Just had the notification, any more Fourtrak videos planned ?
Yeah still got mine and another 2 that I look after.. just haven't had and faults for abit ha , will be more to come in the future 👌
Great video 👍
Thanks Gary 👍
TAHANKIOU IRMANO
Thanks 😁👍👌
Where do you base
Top video top man
👍👍
Hi - I am in the middle of doing the same job and have encountered an issue with the tensioner.
No matter how I try, I can't get the pointer to actually move to align with the required mark when I turn the adjuster anti-clockwise. Any thoughts on what I could be doing wrong ?
Hmm that doesn't sound very good, you may have a faulty tensioner.. just to double check.. the locking tab is located in the recessed hole?
@@diydaly Thanks - yes, the tab is definitely in the recessed hole and I have the torx bolt tightened by hand for the initial pre-tension. When holding the bolt steady whilst turning the adjuster anti-clockwise the pointer does not move at all.
I tried the old tensioner and had the same issue, so am thinking user error on my part.
I think you may have the main bolt too tight , it literally need winding in by hand then backing of so its effectively loose
@@diydaly Ok - I'll give that a go. Someone has suggested that I may have rounded off the hex inside the tensioner. Does that make any sense to you ?
Thank you for all your help !!!
@@broomad possibly , im not 100% sure on the setup inside.. im hoping you've just nipped it too tight before adjusting it 👌
Hi gav wat would u charge to do mine vxr 57plate
Hi Mejo! im afraid im not doing any extra work at the minute, im currently working full time whilst building a garage & trying to keep the family happy too! 🤣😬
How long does this job take?
can be done in 2 hours, but for an average DIYer id say 3-4 hours
Hey Mate, Need your expertise on this. I got the old belt off. timed up to TDC, locking tool in cams. Started raining so thought I’ll finish it tomorrow. Put the wheel back on and lowered it to the ground.
Jacked it up today and took wheel off ready to install the new belt. And I see the crank has moved 2 teeth clockwise ( away from the cut out… however the cams above are all locked via the tool , haven’t moved.
So am I right in saying I just need to put a 17mm on the crank and turn slightly anti clockwise back in line with the cut out?
Many thanks
Yeah just simply move it back to position that’s all mate 👍 I’m guessing your car was in gear and when you’ve put the wheels on etc that’s what’s moved it
Wow what a pain the ass it is getting the new belt on. It has almost next to no stretch ness to manipulate over any of the pulleys.
Tried your way of fitting it all the way around and leaving inlet cam last, but still a massive struggle to slide it over the cam, ( even with the tensioner fully slack.
I did mark the waterpump roughly where the notch - do you reckon the cause for it being so hard to get over due to the waterpump pulley being out of alignment ?
Also the crank keeps jumping 2-3 teeth from TDC when trying to get the belt on . Any idea how to lock it ?
@@omarismith3655 they can be abit tight , not usually too bad though .. you can lock the flywheel but you’ll need a tool to do it