After my earlier mods and adding a decent 7kg spring I've got the Snipe hitting a number of shots over the 160 FPS mark. That's pretty good considering I have about $30 into this blaster! In the video I'm conservative with calling it a 150 FPS blaster, but as you see for yourself a couple of good shots soar all the way past 170 and even up to 180. Not bad at all!
Hi Mongoose Jake, great to discover cool free or very inexpensive modifications to improved the SNIPE from Buzz Bee to get more performance from it. Like 16 with a full viewing, my friend. Staying in touch and doing a lil catch up at your latest 1 or 2 uploads because I know how mu YT emphasizes the latest uploads for ranking. Cheers and blessings, April
Something I love about Buzz Bee blasters is that amazing potential they have. Sure they already out-perform Nerf stock vs stock, but Buzz Bee blasters basically have their performance skyrocket with very basic mods. I honestly don't know why more people don't mod them...
I think the lack of mod parts ( I do make 3D Printed BuzzBee Brute cages from 41.5mm to 43.5mm) and which parts are available are Nerf-Specific, so people don't seem to realise a spring is a spring, if it fits and it's tougher, you'll obviously get more power out of them, I think it's more of a case of people not knowing what to buy so shying away from it as well as specific BuzzBee-Specific aftermarket parts that are freely available, people don't know what to buy and don't want to splash out on a load of springs, hoping maybe one or two will fit.
Awesome, same here, I have loads of parts and kits and I actually need to finish some before I go blowing money on new blasters, I have a load of motors, switches, LiPo's, flywheels and I make my own flywheel cages and some cosmetics, as well as a few springer kits. Cages I make myself, I think the only consumables I'l need are some better solder (lead free is terrible) and 16/18 AWG stranded hobby wire. There's something satisfying about having a 3D Printer, to get to watch the thing being made and you don't just have to wait on the mail. Plus in the long-term, it's cheaper to make your own parts and customise them, as well as being a fun hobby to get into. It doesn't have to all be Nerf either as I make model figures from games and things for around the house (like my gaming controller wall mounts and something as mundane as ornate pull-cord light switch ends). I'll definitely be spending more time indoors making things now it's getting cold outside.
Nice one Jake! Even better that the Snipe was my first ever blaster, well a different colour variant. I'm pretty sure they're the same as a Buzzbee Air Warriors Master Tek, right? Great video brother, I still need to send you those Doublestrike barrels, they've been in an envelope for weeks, but you know the whole thing about my mom passing away though, so I've been so busy and depressed.
They already have a bit of extra weight over standard elites, which helps with their stability. Already they're the best full length foam dart on the market for consistency, so I'm pretty satisfied as it is.
The lock basically prevents someone from firing the blaster when the breech is open. As in, you have it primed back and opened. The manufacturer puts the lock in to prevent someone from smashing their fingers basically. Removing it allows you to manually de-prime the blaster so that you can avoid dry firing a modified blaster. Dry firing is where you fire empty, and can hurt the internals of a blaster that's been modified.
@@MongooseJakeNerf thank you for your feed back i really appreciate it and i followed your steps and it works and sounds so much better haven't had to put a new spring in but love how in depth you are so thank you
I certainly can! I've already done it, and with Ray Squad branded AccuCopies it was reading about 10 FPS lower overall, sticking more in the 140-150 range. Never got the 160/170/180 readings with them. All shots ranged from high 130's to just at 150 or so.
@@MongooseJakeNerf that's still pretty good, if I don't find Precise Pro, I'll get some accufakes. Thanks a lot!!! And I think that having more similar ranges is really good
What would you say the range on this would be with dartzone waffle darts? I want to upgrade my snipe so I have a sniper class blaster to use with my friends so I'm looking for high ranges. My snipe rn only hits around 40 or so feet flat and I'm hoping this will improve it. Also will having two springs instead of one boost performance at all? I'm wondering if I evenneed to buy a better spring if I already have an extra 4.5kg spring that I can put in there.
The Dart Zone Waffles tend to hurt ranges, but improve consistency. As far as springs go, use Nerf Retaliator upgrade springs, and a 7kg should be good to go. A 4.5 kg spring won't do alot, and I'm honestly not the biggest fan of doubling springs as normally that results in rough priming and I only do it when good springs aren't available.
@@MongooseJakeNerf they do tend to hurt ranges. If there was a good way to get darts with both range and precision, I would probably do that. But yeah thanks! I'm gonna get a 7kg spring and hope it works! Thanks for the advice!
Don't know about wire gauges I guess? Doesn't smaller equal thicker, while bigger numbers equal thinner. I would guess it was a cheap 22gauge up to roughly an 18guage. By the way this is used for real wires that transfer power, so I am just assuming the wire in the spring is measured the same way
Yes, I do understand wire gauges, having worked with rewiring and modding RC cars years ago, along with wiring for home remodeling. Steel measurement works the same way, thicker metal means it has a smaller number for it's gauge. The type of gauge I was referring to would be a compression gauge to measure the resistance the spring has. For instance the commonly used 7kg spring has an initial resistance equal to the 7 kilograms. I'd like to just for the heck of it have a spring resistance gauge something like this (but for nerf sized springs): www.speedwaymotors.com/DECO-Hydraulic-Coil-Spring-Rater-0-1000-Lbs-,231.html?sku=3001000&CSEGoogle&CSE&CSEGOOGLE&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInuji-dbb5AIVdyCtBh1ZtQLqEAQYASABEgIJp_D_BwE
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
After my earlier mods and adding a decent 7kg spring I've got the Snipe hitting a number of shots over the 160 FPS mark. That's pretty good considering I have about $30 into this blaster!
In the video I'm conservative with calling it a 150 FPS blaster, but as you see for yourself a couple of good shots soar all the way past 170 and even up to 180. Not bad at all!
What if you brass the bolte?
@@zeanyt2372 Even better air deliver efficiency, and in turn better fps
Hi Mongoose Jake, great to discover cool free or very inexpensive modifications to improved the SNIPE from Buzz Bee to get more performance from it. Like 16 with a full viewing, my friend. Staying in touch and doing a lil catch up at your latest 1 or 2 uploads because I know how mu YT emphasizes the latest uploads for ranking. Cheers and blessings, April
Wow. Double performance that easily. Nice
Something I love about Buzz Bee blasters is that amazing potential they have. Sure they already out-perform Nerf stock vs stock, but Buzz Bee blasters basically have their performance skyrocket with very basic mods. I honestly don't know why more people don't mod them...
I think the lack of mod parts ( I do make 3D Printed BuzzBee Brute cages from 41.5mm to 43.5mm) and which parts are available are Nerf-Specific, so people don't seem to realise a spring is a spring, if it fits and it's tougher, you'll obviously get more power out of them, I think it's more of a case of people not knowing what to buy so shying away from it as well as specific BuzzBee-Specific aftermarket parts that are freely available, people don't know what to buy and don't want to splash out on a load of springs, hoping maybe one or two will fit.
This is gonna be good I will leave a like and continue watching Have a great week
Thanks!
Quite a surprise to see this. Thanks Snake man !
More mod type videos will be coming over the fall/winter. Less blasters to review, so it's time to tinker!
Awesome, same here, I have loads of parts and kits and I actually need to finish some before I go blowing money on new blasters, I have a load of motors, switches, LiPo's, flywheels and I make my own flywheel cages and some cosmetics, as well as a few springer kits. Cages I make myself, I think the only consumables I'l need are some better solder (lead free is terrible) and 16/18 AWG stranded hobby wire.
There's something satisfying about having a 3D Printer, to get to watch the thing being made and you don't just have to wait on the mail. Plus in the long-term, it's cheaper to make your own parts and customise them, as well as being a fun hobby to get into. It doesn't have to all be Nerf either as I make model figures from games and things for around the house (like my gaming controller wall mounts and something as mundane as ornate pull-cord light switch ends).
I'll definitely be spending more time indoors making things now it's getting cold outside.
Nice one Jake! Even better that the Snipe was my first ever blaster, well a different colour variant.
I'm pretty sure they're the same as a Buzzbee Air Warriors Master Tek, right?
Great video brother, I still need to send you those Doublestrike barrels, they've been in an envelope for weeks, but you know the whole thing about my mom passing away though, so I've been so busy and depressed.
I meant it when I said no rush and no worries, just let me know the total and I'll send it to you!
Try filling the tip of the precise pro with silicone. I think added weight will increase range and accuracy.
They already have a bit of extra weight over standard elites, which helps with their stability. Already they're the best full length foam dart on the market for consistency, so I'm pretty satisfied as it is.
so i have a question as im new to trying to mod a dart blaster, what does the lock do, and what does it do by removing it.
The lock basically prevents someone from firing the blaster when the breech is open. As in, you have it primed back and opened. The manufacturer puts the lock in to prevent someone from smashing their fingers basically.
Removing it allows you to manually de-prime the blaster so that you can avoid dry firing a modified blaster. Dry firing is where you fire empty, and can hurt the internals of a blaster that's been modified.
@@MongooseJakeNerf thank you for your feed back i really appreciate it and i followed your steps and it works and sounds so much better haven't had to put a new spring in but love how in depth you are so thank you
Hello, do you need to reinforce the bolt somehow? How can it be done?
Could you tell me some chrono readings with accufakes, please? Really cool and inexpensive mod
I certainly can! I've already done it, and with Ray Squad branded AccuCopies it was reading about 10 FPS lower overall, sticking more in the 140-150 range. Never got the 160/170/180 readings with them. All shots ranged from high 130's to just at 150 or so.
@@MongooseJakeNerf that's still pretty good, if I don't find Precise Pro, I'll get some accufakes. Thanks a lot!!! And I think that having more similar ranges is really good
I wouldn't mind some Precise Pro's for my springers, they seem to perform really well.
Still can't get them anywhere in the Uk can you?
What would you say the range on this would be with dartzone waffle darts? I want to upgrade my snipe so I have a sniper class blaster to use with my friends so I'm looking for high ranges. My snipe rn only hits around 40 or so feet flat and I'm hoping this will improve it. Also will having two springs instead of one boost performance at all? I'm wondering if I evenneed to buy a better spring if I already have an extra 4.5kg spring that I can put in there.
The Dart Zone Waffles tend to hurt ranges, but improve consistency. As far as springs go, use Nerf Retaliator upgrade springs, and a 7kg should be good to go. A 4.5 kg spring won't do alot, and I'm honestly not the biggest fan of doubling springs as normally that results in rough priming and I only do it when good springs aren't available.
@@MongooseJakeNerf they do tend to hurt ranges. If there was a good way to get darts with both range and precision, I would probably do that. But yeah thanks! I'm gonna get a 7kg spring and hope it works! Thanks for the advice!
I'm researching springs to use for a brass breech setup with this blaster, this should help a lot! Maybe I could get away with a 12kg...
the felt pads from dollar tree are good for filling in that dead space too
Ay man 4 years later I wonder how to take off the orange piece on the barrel
There's a couple of options... Either follow the boiling method, or simply cut it down the center to match the two shell halves.
Nice i like it i want one thumbs up
Thanks for watching Reina!
Don't know about wire gauges I guess? Doesn't smaller equal thicker, while bigger numbers equal thinner. I would guess it was a cheap 22gauge up to roughly an 18guage. By the way this is used for real wires that transfer power, so I am just assuming the wire in the spring is measured the same way
Yes, I do understand wire gauges, having worked with rewiring and modding RC cars years ago, along with wiring for home remodeling. Steel measurement works the same way, thicker metal means it has a smaller number for it's gauge.
The type of gauge I was referring to would be a compression gauge to measure the resistance the spring has. For instance the commonly used 7kg spring has an initial resistance equal to the 7 kilograms. I'd like to just for the heck of it have a spring resistance gauge something like this (but for nerf sized springs): www.speedwaymotors.com/DECO-Hydraulic-Coil-Spring-Rater-0-1000-Lbs-,231.html?sku=3001000&CSEGoogle&CSE&CSEGOOGLE&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInuji-dbb5AIVdyCtBh1ZtQLqEAQYASABEgIJp_D_BwE
I wonder how it would shoot BOOMco heh
Something for you to try eh?
I don't have to be the only one that tries boomco experiments.....