Joining the appraisal for Corey. 2004 Aero front ram cylinder leak caused by broken O-ring fixed in two hours. Most of that spent on other than fixing the cylinder… Would have never even imagined to try without this vid!
Thanks so much Cory!!! This fix just saved us a ton of money. We just finished and I wanted to add a few things. First we watched another video to see exactly where the 2 spring washers should fit in. We also watched a video on just taking the RAM apart...we needed to brace and hammer it out. Took a lot more force then yours did but it eventually came out. We had lost quite a lot of hydraulic fluid so when we first tested it, it still wasn't working. Watched another video on filling the fluid. We filled, put the top up and down 3 times to get rid of air and then filled to max again and put the trunk back together. Going up and down perfectly now!!!
Wish this was up three years ago! Thanks for this. I sort of figured it out at the time with some older videos, and bought two remanufactured cylinders for $400.00. It was still a bargain considering the old SAAB specialist place near me wanted $3,600 for this job!!!!!
I absolutely love the videos explaining to people how easy it is to do things themselves on just about any car. I will be re-oringing all 7 of my Mercedes W209 CLK320 hydraulic cylinders thus saving over $1,200. Just hope the wife approves me buying the $3.27 worth of O-rings. Thanx again!!!
Great video, I just did it. It took me longer then 30 min and I still have to put the rear spring washer in. I couldn’t get enough light on it to see. Rain and I’m in the garage. Day light is helpful for this project.
And yes this video did help so much and it's the only video on RUclips I was able to find, due to the kind of hydraulic cylinder that mercedes uses as well
Of course, I only knew I could do this because of what you showed. There is like zero information out there about how to do this and I wanted to make sure I gave you the credit while also showing people the rest of the steps that you had lost.
Thank you my friend. My PEUGEOT 307 CC has the same (disease) history and they have the same hydraulic cylinders, only without sensors. I think they are produced by the same manufacturer for all car manufacturers. Thank you again.
Great video, brother! My car is identical to yours and I think I will give this a try. I pulled an extra set of (also leaking) cylinders out of a wrecked 9-3 so I don't have much to lose.
Greetings from Australia dude 🇦🇺 you little beauty! Was going to fork out the thousands needed in the repairs but now the dealer can go and shove it..... haha thanks for a wicked video bro imma smash this repair out myself!
Nothing gives me more confidence for DIY than a guy who can do the job on a pool break. Maybe a stupid question, but there wouldn't be some kind of sealant that dries hard enough to restore necessary hydraulic pressure in that cylinder?
Corey- I am by profession a photographer and clearly not a Saab mechanic but after watching your video I’m pretty confident I can do this except for one thing… “Random “O” rings”? Any idea fir a starting point for such?
Hi Corey, seeing you do it seems like child's play! WoW! One question, you cut the cylinder at the base with a tool, but then doesn't that piece you removed have to be re-welded? Or is it not necessary because the pin guarantees the seal? Thank you very much
@@massimofrancavilla9577 You basically cut off the crimp holding on the end cap, but like you said the pin actually holds it and the Oring seals it so you don’t need to re-crimp or weld it.
@@coreysgarage6389 😇excellent! The O'ring you put in the cap, what size is it? Do you also need to replace the small o'rings on the hydraulic oil delivery and return hoses?
@@massimofrancavilla9577 It will self bleed by running the system back and forth and topping off the reservoir. Everyone asks about the size of the Oring and I honestly have no idea, I just used one that fit.it doesn’t hurt to change out all orings on things you remove but if they are in good shape you don’t have to.
Just had to fix my other cylinder too. So an update is that both o rings will probably go around the same time and it's a good idea to do both if one goes. The hydraulic fluid is expensive and you will lose a lot every time you have this issue. Better to save a few bucks and the time ripping the truck apart again to fill the fluid and just do them both.
I bought my 2004 'vert with a reciept in the glove box for $4500 for rebuilding all of the rams. Now it leaks again. Not much though. My question is : "Are the rams you replaced the ones that control the tonneau cover? Mine usually stops just short of flush with the top down, and a TECH 2 shows one of those leaking. DId yours have the same symptom?
Thanks for the vid Corey. Seems a little scary to just have an o-ring between you and a mess in the car, but better than the other expensive options. On another note, how do you bleed the pistons as there is now air in the chamber?
Hello, I think I am ready to tackle this job on my 06 Aero. You answered my question on how to get the top in the position you have it in the video and of course I will have to make sure I have plenty of fluid in the reservoir. Once the top is down will I be able to see which cylinder is leaking? I was having someone help me with the job but I guess they are too busy at the moment so I will be the job on my own.
Do you have any advice on taking out the cylinders above the soft-top's pivot point? My cylinders in this video aren't leaking, but I can see its the exact same issue for the cylinders close by - just hard to get them out
How did you know that that's what was wrong? Be ause my top won't go down, the classic " soft top failure" but the motor is making a humming noise. So I'm not sure what's wrong
Check the reservoir in the trunk, it’s probably empty. If you fill it then the top might work, then you can look to see if the pistons are leaking. You could also open it manually.
Corey - I changed the cylinders as shown in your video and all has been well for years. Recently I was opening the top and as it was retracting fluid started running out of the folding joint of the top (over the front and rear passenger side windows). Does this sound like it's the passenger side hydraulic line rather than the front cylinder? I've read that when the front cylinder goes the fluid ends up on the passenger's lap, not from the side of the top. All fabric on the inside of the headliner is dry. Thanks for any insight.
I have also a 2005 Saab Convertible, an ARC, I wanna open the top manually but can't get to the release inside the backseat of the car, if you open the front does that expose them? or open the rear hatch? all of my fluid came out on the driver's side after the back tire towards the door...is that were the fluid tank sits as well...
The release is inside the trunk, there is a rod on each side you move first then hand crank. The tank is on the passenger side in the truck, you likely have a major leak on the drivers side piston or probably both. If you top off the tank you can probably operate the top and won’t have to do it manually.
@@coreysgarage6389 I guess ill find out what fluid it takes, I don't mind having to open it manually, maybe I'm just not getting in the right position in the back seats to release both side locks?
Hi😭😭. I did everything as described. Result after the third opening of the roof, the cylinder is ruined. The tensile force basically pulled the steel block out, tearing it away from the holes in the aluminium cylinder. So now I'm looking for a new one. Better to have a good craftsman do an overhaul than an empirical repair. It would have been too good if it had worked.
I have no problem with my hydraulics as far I know. A few weeks ago I hit some bad potholes and speed bumps and got a SID message about open/close top before driving and then I was stuck in manual operation only. I would go into manual mode and if I open it up partway I can then use my dash button to open or close. Immediately it would work as normal but after sitting it would not. Still trying to figure it out.
I had a similar issue where I would have to move one of the trunk levers just the smallest amount into manual mode, then it would work fine. In my case I suspect there was a small air pocket and it eventually worked itself out. I would look at all the limit switches to make sure something didn’t move. Good luck!
This is the second time I’ve watched your vid, and I’m really impressed with this solution. Makes total sense. Do you know if it works for the earlier model 93? Mine is a 1999. Thank you for sharing.
@@coreysgarage6389 Thank you. Mine is actually leaking from the plunger/piston seals though. I’m guessing that I could take the ram/cylinder apart in the same manner, but then I need to find the correct piston seals. The alternative is to find out if any other manufacturers used the same rams/cylinders on their roofs.
No idea, I sold the car. But that will depend on the quality of the Oring used. There’s no reason they wouldn’t last as long as OEM unless the cylinders are damaged and harm the Oring.
My main cylinder started to leak, that's the one that raises and lowers the soft top into it's compartiment... It leaks over the top right at the moving part, since there is no hole where the pin fits, if I cut around the cylinder it will pop out for sure... any input of how to hold it together??
After being forced to keep my convertible outside most of the winter due to having my broken fucking truck in my garage, I had a flood in the trunk of what I noticed after the fact of hydraulic fluid. I'm hoping it's cold related but if not I'm going to be doing this too.
I need to fix my 2009 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder H.C. thank you! I have an idea of the task ahead of me! Them Vato's(guys) at Mitsubishi don't know what to do or what they are doing I have to do everything myself!
Thank you for this great video! I have the 1st bow cylinder leaking on my '2004 and I had no clue on now to disassemble it. But now things will move! I also consider that in theory some leaks may be caused by the overpressure caused by jam of the returning hydraulic line or the valve.
Joining the appraisal for Corey. 2004 Aero front ram cylinder leak caused by broken O-ring fixed in two hours. Most of that spent on other than fixing the cylinder… Would have never even imagined to try without this vid!
That’s awesome, glad you were able to fix it!
@@coreysgarage6389 yeah, pity I couldn’t film it - removing and assembling the front ramlock mechanism back in place involves few tricks…
Thanks so much Cory!!! This fix just saved us a ton of money. We just finished and I wanted to add a few things. First we watched another video to see exactly where the 2 spring washers should fit in. We also watched a video on just taking the RAM apart...we needed to brace and hammer it out. Took a lot more force then yours did but it eventually came out. We had lost quite a lot of hydraulic fluid so when we first tested it, it still wasn't working. Watched another video on filling the fluid. We filled, put the top up and down 3 times to get rid of air and then filled to max again and put the trunk back together. Going up and down perfectly now!!!
Wish this was up three years ago! Thanks for this. I sort of figured it out at the time with some older videos, and bought two remanufactured cylinders for $400.00. It was still a bargain considering the old SAAB specialist place near me wanted $3,600 for this job!!!!!
Hopefully it helps out others.
I absolutely love the videos explaining to people how easy it is to do things themselves on just about any car. I will be re-oringing all 7 of my Mercedes W209 CLK320 hydraulic cylinders thus saving over $1,200. Just hope the wife approves me buying the $3.27 worth of O-rings. Thanx again!!!
Thank you! I usually try to provide value in my videos.
Did you rebuilt your W209 hydraulic cylinders with this method?
Just did the same on my 2004 ARC! Thank you & Scott's video now it's fixed...Old O-ring is so brittle it fell apart in my hand.
Thats awesome, glad the videos helped.
What a fantastic video. Those cylinders are used in many cars. Same in Chrysler Crossfire. I have the same problem leaking and now I can repair it
That’s awesome, good luck!
DUDE!!!! YOU ROCK!!! I did this and my 06, ARC TOP....WORKS!!!! Thank you.
Excellent, glad I could help!
Great video, I just did it. It took me longer then 30 min and I still have to put the rear spring washer in. I couldn’t get enough light on it to see. Rain and I’m in the garage. Day light is helpful for this project.
Right that's the demo done. Practical starts in the morning for me. Very helpful. Thank you from GB
And yes this video did help so much and it's the only video on RUclips I was able to find, due to the kind of hydraulic cylinder that mercedes uses as well
This is a perfect video also for Peugeot 307CC actuators - exactly same way to open them, almost identical design.
Good info!
Thanks for the mention to my shop channel Aroostook auto glass. RUclips lost the first part of my 2 part series on doing this.
Of course, I only knew I could do this because of what you showed. There is like zero information out there about how to do this and I wanted to make sure I gave you the credit while also showing people the rest of the steps that you had lost.
Thank you my friend. My PEUGEOT 307 CC has the same (disease) history and they have the same hydraulic cylinders, only without sensors. I think they are produced by the same manufacturer for all car manufacturers. Thank you again.
Awesome, hope this helps.
Great video, brother! My car is identical to yours and I think I will give this a try. I pulled an extra set of (also leaking) cylinders out of a wrecked 9-3 so I don't have much to lose.
Good luck, it worked perfectly for me.
Thanks mate you saved me a small fortune.
Awesome!
Dude you are awesome! You just saved me a ton of money! Best wishes to you and yours. Again awesome!
Thank you, glad you saved some money!
Great DIY repair on the cheap! Well done Corey and thank you for sharing.
Thanks Corey. I had a double failure last week. 3 days later all is operating again as it should for under 3 dollars of o-rings.
Awesome! Glad you were able to fix it.
Great Video! thinking of buying one of these Saab Convertibles as my retirement toy.
There not bad cars but there are things to be aware of.
Greetings from Australia dude 🇦🇺 you little beauty! Was going to fork out the thousands needed in the repairs but now the dealer can go and shove it..... haha thanks for a wicked video bro imma smash this repair out myself!
Awesome! I hope it works for you as well as it did for me.
Hi, 9 months later any leaks/problems? I just followed your video to fix both pistons and it’s working great!!!
I sold the car so I am not sure if it's still holding up but I didn't have any issues for a month or so before I sold it. Glad the fix worked for you!
Nothing gives me more confidence for DIY than a guy who can do the job on a pool break. Maybe a stupid question, but there wouldn't be some kind of sealant that dries hard enough to restore necessary hydraulic pressure in that cylinder?
I highly doubt any sealants would work.
Great video! I will do on my Peugeot 307 cc, it seems has the same hidraulic that is loosing oil from the top.
GOOD JOB SHOWING THAT INFO
Thank you
Corey-
I am by profession a photographer and clearly not a Saab mechanic but after watching your video I’m pretty confident I can do this except for one thing… “Random “O” rings”? Any idea fir a starting point for such?
Hi Corey, seeing you do it seems like child's play! WoW!
One question, you cut the cylinder at the base with a tool, but then doesn't that piece you removed have to be re-welded? Or is it not necessary because the pin guarantees the seal?
Thank you very much
@@massimofrancavilla9577 You basically cut off the crimp holding on the end cap, but like you said the pin actually holds it and the Oring seals it so you don’t need to re-crimp or weld it.
@@coreysgarage6389 😇excellent!
The O'ring you put in the cap, what size is it?
Do you also need to replace the small o'rings on the hydraulic oil delivery and return hoses?
One last question, when you reconnect everything, is there a bleeding to remove the air and put pressure back into the hydraulic circuit?
@@massimofrancavilla9577 It will self bleed by running the system back and forth and topping off the reservoir. Everyone asks about the size of the Oring and I honestly have no idea, I just used one that fit.it doesn’t hurt to change out all orings on things you remove but if they are in good shape you don’t have to.
Nice job ! I will do this next week end. Do you have a reference for the oring or a standard one will fit ? thanks !
@@francoislaurentTrollet I just used one that fit from a kit of different sizes.
@@coreysgarage6389 super ! Thanks Corey !
Just had to fix my other cylinder too. So an update is that both o rings will probably go around the same time and it's a good idea to do both if one goes. The hydraulic fluid is expensive and you will lose a lot every time you have this issue. Better to save a few bucks and the time ripping the truck apart again to fill the fluid and just do them both.
Thanks for the video!! Going to try it soon!! Hope it will work!!
Nice job, Corey!
Thank you!
I fixed both sides in about an hour. I had been pulling it manually for almost 2 years
How do you refill with oil, I've lost loads when mine leaked out? Cheers for sharing the info
There is a reservoir in the trunk you need to refill.
Great video and thanks for sharing it. Enjoy the pool :-) Saabic Greetings from Berlin, Germany
Thank you!
I bought my 2004 'vert with a reciept in the glove box for $4500 for rebuilding all of the rams. Now it leaks again. Not much though.
My question is : "Are the rams you replaced the ones that control the tonneau cover? Mine usually stops just short of flush with the top down, and a TECH 2 shows one of those leaking.
DId yours have the same symptom?
Hi,where was the roof stopping when trying to fold the roof , mine is getting stuck half way in the air
Yes when it’s low on fluid that is one of the possibilities.
@@coreysgarage6389mine wasn't low , no visible leak , i suspect a sensor but i don't know which sensor could cause it to stop halfway
Thank You for the video. It happened to me and now it will be easier for me to fix it ;)
Did they ever leaked because of that part You cut off?
Never leaked for as long as I owned it but that was only a couple months.
Thanks for the vid Corey. Seems a little scary to just have an o-ring between you and a mess in the car, but better than the other expensive options. On another note, how do you bleed the pistons as there is now air in the chamber?
The system bleeds itself by using it and the Oring was there from the factor, you are just replacing it.
My o ring is ripped so I can’t tell if it should be big and a bit lose or tigh on the plunger. Any idea what size the ring is.
Use one that fits snug to the plunger and the cylinder
Hello, I think I am ready to tackle this job on my 06 Aero. You answered my question on how to get the top in the position you have it in the video and of course I will have to make sure I have plenty of fluid in the reservoir. Once the top is down will I be able to see which cylinder is leaking? I was having someone help me with the job but I guess they are too busy at the moment so I will be the job on my own.
Yes you will be able to see which cylinder is leaking, good luck!
@@coreysgarage6389 do you by chance live in the Northeastern part of US?
your car is the second generation Saab 9-3. do you have a similar video for a hydraulic cylinder from a first generation Saab 9-3? thanks
Sorry I don’t, I haven’t worked on one of those systems and I’m not sure if it’s similar.
Hello what model of Dremel tool is that? And what speed setting did you you use? Many thanks 🙏
Great video. Do you know if 2002 Model cylinders can be repaired in the same way?
I’m not sure but I think they are different.
Great video man
Thank you
Do you have any advice on taking out the cylinders above the soft-top's pivot point? My cylinders in this video aren't leaking, but I can see its the exact same issue for the cylinders close by - just hard to get them out
I didn’t have to pull those so unfortunately I don’t have any experience with them. Sorry
Can you get me the link where you buy the partc, Thank you.
What part? I don’t think I bought any parts for this repair, just an Oring.
You change the cylinder or you change only the rubber ring ?
@@007videosbyfred I repair the cylinder with the oring
Great video I have the same problem and will do the same I won't spend 200 to 500 dollars on the cilinders thanks men
Good luck, worked great for me.
Drilling the dimple is the easiest way to release the plug.
How did you know that that's what was wrong? Be ause my top won't go down, the classic " soft top failure" but the motor is making a humming noise. So I'm not sure what's wrong
Check the reservoir in the trunk, it’s probably empty. If you fill it then the top might work, then you can look to see if the pistons are leaking. You could also open it manually.
Great vid - thanks, gonna give it a try in the morning!
with the leaking cylinder were you able to lower the top to where you had it automatically or did you have manually lower the top?
I was able to operate the top by keeping the reservoir full.
Corey - I changed the cylinders as shown in your video and all has been well for years. Recently I was opening the top and as it was retracting fluid started running out of the folding joint of the top (over the front and rear passenger side windows). Does this sound like it's the passenger side hydraulic line rather than the front cylinder? I've read that when the front cylinder goes the fluid ends up on the passenger's lap, not from the side of the top. All fabric on the inside of the headliner is dry. Thanks for any insight.
That does sound like a line rather than a cylinder. I hope you get it figured out, good luck!
Can i ask what cylinder that is please, there should be a ref number on the housing. Also what size oring did you use thanks
I have also a 2005 Saab Convertible, an ARC, I wanna open the top manually but can't get to the release inside the backseat of the car, if you open the front does that expose them? or open the rear hatch? all of my fluid came out on the driver's side after the back tire towards the door...is that were the fluid tank sits as well...
The release is inside the trunk, there is a rod on each side you move first then hand crank. The tank is on the passenger side in the truck, you likely have a major leak on the drivers side piston or probably both. If you top off the tank you can probably operate the top and won’t have to do it manually.
@@coreysgarage6389 you mean top it off just to get it down to look at ?
@@coreysgarage6389 I guess ill find out what fluid it takes, I don't mind having to open it manually, maybe I'm just not getting in the right position in the back seats to release both side locks?
@@coreysgarage6389 the cover is brand new, I don't mind paying 200-300$ to have it fixed, and I heard of a hose swap?
Great job great video my is👍 leaking on the same side thanks a lot for letting me know how to do this
Hi, do you know if same repair can be done also on older 93 from 1999 to 2003 at home?
It's done a bit differently I'm afraid. I have a '99 and am researching it for myself.
Gonna like this one even though i haven't got a vert :)
Thank you!
Great repair!
is the system the same with previous saab 93 model?
No it’s different but I’m not sure what it would take to fix it.
Problem is there is extreme pressure on these rams and having only the pin holding the cap means that only the thin aluminum tube is supporting.
It isn’t a problem
Thank you For The type it work Perfectly but the system is all mixte up it doesn’t open and close properly thank you for your help
Hi, do you remember size of this o/ring?
Where do you refill the fluid?
The reservoir and pump is in the trunk on the right side under a panel.
What size "0" ring please
I don’t know exactly, I had an assortment and just picked one that was the same.
Hi😭😭. I did everything as described.
Result after the third opening of the roof, the cylinder is ruined. The tensile force basically pulled the steel block out, tearing it away from the holes in the aluminium cylinder. So now I'm looking for a new one.
Better to have a good craftsman do an overhaul than an empirical repair. It would have been too good if it had worked.
Sorry to hear that. Yours is the only one I am aware of this hasn’t worked on.
I have no problem with my hydraulics as far I know. A few weeks ago I hit some bad potholes and speed bumps and got a SID message about open/close top before driving and then I was stuck in manual operation only. I would go into manual mode and if I open it up partway I can then use my dash button to open or close. Immediately it would work as normal but after sitting it would not. Still trying to figure it out.
I had a similar issue where I would have to move one of the trunk levers just the smallest amount into manual mode, then it would work fine. In my case I suspect there was a small air pocket and it eventually worked itself out. I would look at all the limit switches to make sure something didn’t move. Good luck!
@@coreysgarage6389 I was low on fluid and after I topped off we are supposed to open and close consecutively at least 5 times. That solved it.
What are the dimensions of the o-ring?
This is the second time I’ve watched your vid, and I’m really impressed with this solution. Makes total sense. Do you know if it works for the earlier model 93? Mine is a 1999.
Thank you for sharing.
I’m really not sure if it works on the earlier models. Hopefully you can get it sorted out.
@@coreysgarage6389 Thank you. Mine is actually leaking from the plunger/piston seals though. I’m guessing that I could take the ram/cylinder apart in the same manner, but then I need to find the correct piston seals.
The alternative is to find out if any other manufacturers used the same rams/cylinders on their roofs.
@@G58 There are companies that rebuild them as well
A very helpful video.
Thanks for the great video, I'll give it a go
What size O rings did you use?
No idea, I just grabbed on the same size as the one I took out. You can buy an assortment pretty cheap.
I did this and now im getting a message that top can only be opened manually.
Σ ευχαριστώ.το ιδιο προβλημα εχω με το σααβ
Φαίνεται δυσκολο.θα το στείλω σε συνεργείο.
Gracias, este sistema es válido para cilindro hidráulico Peugeot 307cc y Peugeot en general, mil gracias.
How long have they lasted?
No idea, I sold the car. But that will depend on the quality of the Oring used. There’s no reason they wouldn’t last as long as OEM unless the cylinders are damaged and harm the Oring.
What size o rings did you use?
I had a set of different sizes and just picked one that looked about the same as the one I took off. You can buy sets really cheap.
My main cylinder started to leak, that's the one that raises and lowers the soft top into it's compartiment... It leaks over the top right at the moving part, since there is no hole where the pin fits, if I cut around the cylinder it will pop out for sure... any input of how to hold it together??
Did you get to do it? I have the same problem...
@@ismaelgallego4492 I had to replace the cylinder, but I guess you can rebuild it
After being forced to keep my convertible outside most of the winter due to having my broken fucking truck in my garage, I had a flood in the trunk of what I noticed after the fact of hydraulic fluid. I'm hoping it's cold related but if not I'm going to be doing this too.
Well if you do need to do this at least you know it isn’t terribly difficult or expensive.
I need to fix my 2009 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder H.C. thank you! I have an idea of the task ahead of me! Them Vato's(guys) at Mitsubishi don't know what to do or what they are doing I have to do everything myself!
Say...could you throw up a p/n or dims for the oring, please? You can provably buy a bag of a hundred from McMaster Carr for $6...
Thank you for this great video! I have the 1st bow cylinder leaking on my '2004 and I had no clue on now to disassemble it. But now things will move!
I also consider that in theory some leaks may be caused by the overpressure caused by jam of the returning hydraulic line or the valve.
I hope the video helps you out! I was surprised that the repair, while maybe not totally correct worked so well.
¡Gracias!
Gracias me sirvio mucho.
My bad- I see the response below.
What size O ring do you need?
I don’t remember, I had a set of different sizes and just picked one that looked right. You can get sets really cheap at places like Harbor Freight.
What size oring
I just matched it up with one I had in an assorted kit. You can buy a whole assortment really cheap.
@@coreysgarage6389 ok thanks Imma give it a shot.
Good luck, let me know how it works out!
doubt that is simple
It actually isn’t bad at all.
It was this simple! But I wore shoes
great video, thank you for sharing,
You’re welcome!