The main 3 objective of differential output route to differential input configuration are 1. No blocking capacitor required,so natural low frequency response can be achieved. 2.As bluetooth ground loop system noise is common to both differential input,So they get cancelled out in the differential stage.And high audio quality can be achieved. 3.Another thing is that ,2 times signal swing at the input causes more output signal than single ended input configuration. And Zero analog signal processing required in CSR as there is an in built kalimba DSP present,which can boost the audio performance digitally. The only requirement for converting to single ended configuration from differential input (by an opamp ) is to process in analogue domain, System coupling compatibility .But in this hifi it is not required. And headphone amplifier connection is another consideration for converting the diff input to se output ,which can drive the headphone drivers,by l,r & g. That's all.Thanks for discussing these hifi speaker design concepts.
THe input capacitors are required since the differential signal of the bluetooth chip will have DC bias and can burn the input stage of the amplifier. If you don't trust me, search "TPA3255 Input without capacitors".
hi, nice work, am facing the ground loop issue when connecting Bluetooth decoder to the tpa3116d2, so if i do the same to the capacitors no more ground loop ? thanks.
Hi Dariee, thx for the work. So I get the point for the HYT PCB with BT onboard that both chips support differential input and the mod look doable. But what do I do if I only have normal audio line out, e.g. 3,5mm jack? Can I use the method too? Or in what cases can this be used?
soooo i did the mod to the one with the bt chip and hooked it up to a pair of 4ohm coaxial car speakers, the first 3 minutes it worked perfectly and sounded extremely clear. After that tho the audio started cutting out constantly and i saw amp spikes on my power supply, up to 2 amps. I turned the power supply off and checked arround, nothing is sorting or smth. My suspicion was that the problem were the 4 ohm speakers cause from what i found that amp is designed for 8 ohm speakers. So what i did is got some 10ohm 4 watt resistors(the only ones i had lying arround) and wired one in series with each speaker. At first it was cutting out again but after about 1 minute of that, it started sounding great again but one minute after that it started cutting out again and the resistors got extremely hot (they were 10ohm 4 watt resistors) so i stopped and orderred 4ohm 10 watt resistors and when they came i installed them, so each speaker has a 4ohm resistor mounted in series which should give me 8 ohms per speaker, then the moment for the soundtest came and it again does the same exact thing, it cuts out constantly. Do u think that i have caused permanent damage to the amp? or what do u think is the problem, thanks in advance.
hey man .. weird stuff .. I am 100% sure it's not the 4ohm speakers, the datasheet does specify for that what amp exactly are you using, and how much voltage are you feeding it ??
@@Darieee I am using the amp you have linked (the tpa3118 + csra64215) and i am feeding it 24v using my bench power supply. Another weird thing is that after further trying with the resistors i noticed that the one i have placed on the right channel speaker gets considerably hotter than the left one (both speakers are the same) (i measured the ine on the right channel at a crazy 100° and the one on the left was room temperature)
it sounds like your amp is biased all wrong ... try and measure if on no music it's passing current through the speakers and if they're worth much, then, tread very carefully going forward 😬
Nice video but very technical and certainly the advices are for electronics genious and also for very experts in solderings... I do some solderings myself but what you suggest is far from what I would try to do... Please try give some simpler solutions....if possible. Thanks!
yeah .. unfortunately this is the simplest approach to this problem :( outside of this, you just have to buy an amp that's designed to take the pop into account
Sir, i am in confusion please help.. Which one is better tpa3110 or tpa3118? Which one has better bass I will power them from 3 18650 lithium battery Which one has more powerful and clear sound? Which one worth every penny
I even think you can buy 2.1 amps with TPA3118 chips ... those should be awesome Unlike the much more powerful TPA3116, this chip has absolutely no turn-on thump
yep! you connect stuff as follow regular L_in :: L+ lifted cap L_in :: L- regular R_in :: R+ lifted cap R_in :: R- where L+- and R+- are two differential audio signals (negative no longer tied to ground) this reduces 100% of all Bluetooth ground-loop noise
@@Darieee thanks so if I understood correctly and input negatives will be connected to lifted ones. Out put should be connected as it is. I have 2.1 system with 1 stereo and 1 mono amp and I get hiss as I use 100w step down converter from main supply to ws2812b led and sp107e controller.I am using Xbox adaptor 200watt 12 as supply. I used that ground loop isolater that did reduced lot but still I hear lot.
Well thank you ! :) @@Darieee please can you give me some contact, mail or something? I have more questions for you about TWS mode and its functionality.
The main 3 objective of differential output route to differential input configuration are
1. No blocking capacitor required,so natural low frequency response can be achieved.
2.As bluetooth ground loop system noise is common to both differential input,So they get cancelled out in the differential stage.And high audio quality can be achieved.
3.Another thing is that ,2 times signal swing at the input causes more output signal than single ended input configuration.
And Zero analog signal processing required in CSR as there is an in built kalimba DSP present,which can boost the audio performance digitally.
The only requirement for converting to single ended configuration from differential input (by an opamp ) is to process in analogue domain, System coupling compatibility .But in this hifi it is not required.
And headphone amplifier connection is another consideration for converting the diff input to se output ,which can drive the headphone drivers,by l,r & g.
That's all.Thanks for discussing these hifi speaker design concepts.
THe input capacitors are required since the differential signal of the bluetooth chip will have DC bias and can burn the input stage of the amplifier. If you don't trust me, search "TPA3255 Input without capacitors".
Thank you so much for all your videos. My CSRA64215 arrived in the mail today. Let the fun begin :P
yay !
you're more than welcome !!!
You have to change input capacitors too right? according to the input impedance. Otherwise it will loss low frequencies
Bro how to remove humming sound?
hi,
nice work, am facing the ground loop issue when connecting Bluetooth decoder to the tpa3116d2, so if i do the same to the capacitors no more ground loop ? thanks.
when it turns off it makes a huge noise in the speakers, as it would be avoided
how to solve that problem
Can you post while performing it? Thanks
I saw the review you made in aliexpress. Did you buy from different sellers? There's 2 different shops you reviewed for this board
Dayum, the world's small
Yeah, so far I bought 2 of the bt+amp boards from 2 sellers
Hi Dariee, thx for the work. So I get the point for the HYT PCB with BT onboard that both chips support differential input and the mod look doable. But what do I do if I only have normal audio line out, e.g. 3,5mm jack? Can I use the method too? Or in what cases can this be used?
soooo i did the mod to the one with the bt chip and hooked it up to a pair of 4ohm coaxial car speakers, the first 3 minutes it worked perfectly and sounded extremely clear. After that tho the audio started cutting out constantly and i saw amp spikes on my power supply, up to 2 amps. I turned the power supply off and checked arround, nothing is sorting or smth. My suspicion was that the problem were the 4 ohm speakers cause from what i found that amp is designed for 8 ohm speakers. So what i did is got some 10ohm 4 watt resistors(the only ones i had lying arround) and wired one in series with each speaker. At first it was cutting out again but after about 1 minute of that, it started sounding great again but one minute after that it started cutting out again and the resistors got extremely hot (they were 10ohm 4 watt resistors) so i stopped and orderred 4ohm 10 watt resistors and when they came i installed them, so each speaker has a 4ohm resistor mounted in series which should give me 8 ohms per speaker, then the moment for the soundtest came and it again does the same exact thing, it cuts out constantly. Do u think that i have caused permanent damage to the amp? or what do u think is the problem, thanks in advance.
hey man .. weird stuff ..
I am 100% sure it's not the 4ohm speakers, the datasheet does specify for that
what amp exactly are you using, and how much voltage are you feeding it ??
@@Darieee I am using the amp you have linked (the tpa3118 + csra64215) and i am feeding it 24v using my bench power supply. Another weird thing is that after further trying with the resistors i noticed that the one i have placed on the right channel speaker gets considerably hotter than the left one (both speakers are the same) (i measured the ine on the right channel at a crazy 100° and the one on the left was room temperature)
yeah .. something seems to have went super wrong there
it sounds like your amp is biased all wrong ... try and measure if on no music it's passing current through the speakers
and if they're worth much, then, tread very carefully going forward 😬
Nice video but very technical and certainly the advices are for electronics genious and also for very experts in solderings... I do some solderings myself but what you suggest is far from what I would try to do... Please try give some simpler solutions....if possible. Thanks!
yeah .. unfortunately this is the simplest approach to this problem :(
outside of this, you just have to buy an amp that's designed to take the pop into account
Sir, i am in confusion please help..
Which one is better tpa3110 or tpa3118?
Which one has better bass
I will power them from 3 18650 lithium battery
Which one has more powerful and clear sound?
Which one worth every penny
Same question here, please answer
TPA3118
ALL THE WAY !!!
More power with no drawback! (costs more of course but, yea)
@@Darieee on same output volume which one will give better bass?
Would use 4 × li-ion battery
TPA3118
A L L
T H E
W A Y
I even think you can buy 2.1 amps with TPA3118 chips ... those should be awesome
Unlike the much more powerful TPA3116, this chip has absolutely no turn-on thump
Are there pop sound?
Nice to know. 8-26V? Is there a recommended voltage for these HYT boards?
Well, the max output of the TPA3118 is specced at 24v so .. I guess go with that?
What you do after lifting two? Need connect something? Thanks
yep! you connect stuff as follow
regular L_in :: L+
lifted cap L_in :: L-
regular R_in :: R+
lifted cap R_in :: R-
where L+- and R+- are two differential audio signals (negative no longer tied to ground)
this reduces 100% of all Bluetooth ground-loop noise
@@Darieee thanks so if I understood correctly and input negatives will be connected to lifted ones. Out put should be connected as it is. I have 2.1 system with 1 stereo and 1 mono amp and I get hiss as I use 100w step down converter from main supply to ws2812b led and sp107e controller.I am using Xbox adaptor 200watt 12 as supply. I used that ground loop isolater that did reduced lot but still I hear lot.
you understood corectly
Please can you post links amps, where to buy ?
yeah - just added them to the description :)
Well thank you ! :) @@Darieee please can you give me some contact, mail or something? I have more questions for you about TWS mode and its functionality.
Probably best to ask here, or in my csra64215 video
That way the other people can also see the talk :D
I sorry, I didn't understand exactly what is B1212 isolator and why did you refer to it.
you can't have negative voltages on the mute pin ...
Notification squad!