First of all, thank you for making such a simple and well-spoken how-to video and second, this is the sweetest, cleanest set up I've seen. Thanks again,
This is a very clean install. Very nicely done. I would recommend running an additional wire back to the battery to wire the distribution block in series with the battery. This will allow power from the block to be pulled from the battery and allow the voltage regulator to have the battery to be charged correctly. Wired how it currently is will not have enough load on the regulator to give the correct charge to the battery.
Hey can you draw this out? And send it through email JonahsHernandez@gmail.com or this chat. I’m very interested and somewhat confused on what you mean. and I’m in the process of moving my battery to the back so it would be very helpful. Ty
Happy I came across your video, i was about to go ahead with it and stumbled on yours, needless to say I have the products you mentioned on order simply because of how well you explained and took your time, and how clean this looks. Thanks! Great work, and keep it up!
I know this is an old video but I just found it and I am ordering the stuff for my Jetta. You say in the video (2) 110 amp wires in the fuse box. Are you using a 125 amp fuse? I cant seem to find a 110 amp fuse for those fuse blocks.
Great video! Hope you respond to this since it’s been 6 years 😅 what did you use to mount the new fuses and T-block? Also would it be the end of the world to just fully remove the engine/tranny to chassis ground? I think it’ll make it just be alittle bit cleaner.
nice informative video Sir... just want to clear one thing if you don't mind, @12:48 , what u did with the ground terminal in the engine bay? you already grounded the battery in the boot right, then why there is another ground cable in the engine bay? thank u...
Thanks friend! That's just the existing ground strap that was bundled with the battery ground. The other side connects to the engine/transmission. Essentially just another ground point for the engine to the chassis.
Hey so I’d like to do this same project to my GTI. Looking up the parts for it, the Stinger SHD821 HPM Series MANL/MIDI doesn’t seem to available and nor do they know when it will be back in stock. Could you recommend a different fuse box to use? I’m not very electrical savvy so idk if something like the KCT ANL will work the same or if the same fuses will work fine with it. Great tutorial video though, it makes me feel like I can take on this project without having much electrical knowledge.
Hey man! Sorry for the delayed response. Glad the video was helpful! From a quick search, it seems like this block should be similar (although quite a bit pricier) - www.sonicelectronix.com/item-153539-Wet-Sounds-WWX-FUSE-DIST-BLOCK.html
okay so i ordered basically everything you ordered except i went with a box that fits an optima red top 34 series instead. figured if i just got a sealed battery then i shouldnt have to worry about having a sealed box should make it to where the battery can fit in tighter places
2:29 You didn’t cover the ground cable under the battery at all, completely skipped over it ! What did you do to ground your starter ? Still not starting
@@supercarmio brill thankyou. Just done mine and didnt order enough cable. Got the rear fuse installed, main cable installed to the starter just waiting for another length to arrive so i can go from the starter to the t piece and then to the fuses. Ive already chopped the wires and installed the fuses and boxes. Have you had any problems with the alternator not charging the battery? Read one the comments mentioning running negative back to the battery in the trunk to allow full power? ? Just following your video and the steps. What you have done Thankyou
Just curious on your thoughts since I haven’t seen it asked yet. Could you locate your fuse panel in the trunk with the battery rather than in the engine bay by running the wire coming off the starter back through?
Yeah I believe you could -- downside is that you'd have to run additional wiring. I think it's more common to have a feed come up to the front and then split off from there. Also instead of just worrying about one line potentially shorting to ground (in the case it was damaged), you would then have to consider the wires coming from the fuse panel in the rear as well. Just my quick thoughts though - good question!
Love this setup, great work. I am getting the parts to do my audi TT. What I am confused about is the dimensions of the Stinger SHD823 block. Most pages say it is 6x5.5 inches, is that correct? Looks smaller in your engine bay. Trying to work out space before parts arrive...thanks
Really appreciate the kind words man 🙌 I’d be happy to help. it sounds like that might be the shipping dimensions. just measured one and it is ~3.5in x 2.5in
@@chriswise6374 Sure thing -- it was included in the following kit: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IZXGFIK/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1 If you don't need an entire kit, I did use the above linked ANL holder in my Evo w/o issue
Depending on the block you go with you certainly could. This particular one has an amperage rating of 300a iirc, so I felt more comfortable splitting my circuit into two.
sure thing! there should be a ground going from the battery negative terminal to the body (underneath the battery tray) and then another going to the transmission.
supercarmio ok cool, thanks man, I thought so but I though I may have missed something. Great video by the way. Going to do a similar setup on my car. Very clean looking
Are you referring to the fuse holder near the battery? If so, usually it does not come with the fuse itself. So you'd need the fuse holder and the ANL fuse to go with it. 👍
@@michaelwilliams5896 I'm not well versed with that engine - but from what I can tell you should have a PCV near your MAF which has a breather connection coming in from the valve cover. A catch can would go in between that connection.
Great video. I blew my starter leaving the battery grounded while doing this project. Everything is according to this video now with brand new starter. The car still won’t start, can you please let me know what are some common issues with shorting and why it will no longer start? Brand new battery brand new coil pack. Multimeter reads no voltage drops between connections. Every connection is 12.8v or higher, the starter receives power until I attempt to start it then it drops to .80v
Im looking onto it let me know I want to know too cause I was wondering I didnt start it yet but I was triggered by the fact thatI didnt have this ground anymore
Sorry, I have another question, I did it a little differently, but used the same fuse blocks. They are not really sealed at all, have you had any issues with moisture of condensation? Have they held up well, did you do anything more to try and seal the fuse boxes, thanks...great video and love the fuse holders.
Thank you for the great feedback! The holders do come with a plastic piece that snaps on top, but like you said, they are not 100% sealed. I haven't had any issues TBH, but I guess you could probably add some weather striping or double sided foam around the perimeter if you were having issues. It's been a few years now and they are holding up great for me!
good video man ... i should clean the area where the battery was in the engine bay also you shoud put some protected cover nut on the screw under the car , for water protection .
Hey man amazing step by step video! I was just wondering what you did with the negative terminal wire? From the engine/transmission to the ground under the tray, did you then run it back to the battery or connect it somewhere else? Once again, amazing video!
Hey, great video very informative. Does the spare wheel cover fit and lay flat over the battery? If not is there a shorter battery that would work so the battery is completely hidden?
Thank you! Yes it does fit! If you wanted to conserve more space, you could go w/ a smaller form factor battery, maybe Miata size. Would depend on your electrical requirements though
Does the trunk cover still fit over the battery box? How big of battery do you have and any slow cranking ever? I have a ~400 CCA battery in my Mk4 trunk and i always want to go bigger but have limited space
yep, the cover still fits, when it's on you can't really tell anything is underneath. h5 battery and it's been great - no difference at all in terms of cranking, etc. 👍👍
haha no, nothing special. Maybe you don't recognize it because it's the standard US spec? No fancy rear fog lights or anything like you'd see in a euro switch for example.
Awesome good to know I am also haven’t issues finding a 110 amp fuse I tried checking the link you posted but nothing there I’ve searched google also and nothing is it 110 or 100?
Can legitimately say I'm the first viewer on something..surely I must win a prize from youtube or something haha! Glad to see another Mk4 episode man, interesting that the battery relocation is a common mod, but it totally makes sense.
@@supercarmio You said in your video that it was a 250a. Did you change to a 200a fuse? For what reason? Just want to make sure I'm using the right one lol
You can definitely use one block! Just make sure it can support the amount of load you'll be putting through it. You can also omit the Y splitter if you find a big enough block. Good luck!
@@supercarmio thx, I thought you said 1 0 as 10 gauge, not 1 as pcs and 0 as gause, thinking to do the same but only because I want to add an extra fuse box and pull my own wires under the dash for my gadgets, nice vid.
@@DominoSixO no worries! thank you I appreciate that. This does clean things up quite nicely and you could def. add some more gadgets/accessories for sure.
Firstly, great how-to video. Second and most important do not waste money and time using garbage like aluminum wire for battery relocation or charging, BUY real Copper please. Companies make millions on the naive consumer buying these kits that are only useful in proper select applications. When automakers use pure copper to run your electrical why would you use anything less.
Thanks man! Yes, I totally agree. After performing relocations on other cars I would say using higher quality wire is worth it - I've been going with welding wire and have been pleased. Thanks for bringing this up
Great video, very useful thank you
Thanks man, glad it helped you! Still one of my favorite mods on my MK4 👍
First of all, thank you for making such a simple and well-spoken how-to video and second, this is the sweetest, cleanest set up I've seen. Thanks again,
Also do you still have the make and model of the distribution blocks?
🙌 Thanks man, really appreciate the kind words! Sure thing, here you are: Stinger SPD512 PRO (T-Block), Stinger SHD821 HPM (PDB)
@@supercarmio Thanks brother
@@jazzlogan8671 anytime!
This is a very clean install. Very nicely done. I would recommend running an additional wire back to the battery to wire the distribution block in series with the battery. This will allow power from the block to be pulled from the battery and allow the voltage regulator to have the battery to be charged correctly. Wired how it currently is will not have enough load on the regulator to give the correct charge to the battery.
Thanks man! Thanks for the tip as well, I'll look into that!
Hey can you draw this out? And send it through email JonahsHernandez@gmail.com or this chat. I’m very interested and somewhat confused on what you mean. and I’m in the process of moving my battery to the back so it would be very helpful. Ty
This was my only thought. Everything else is awesome. I wonder if the fuse block could be placed somewhere else also.
This video really helped me get over my wall.. thank you very much.
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching :)
damn these links for parts are still good years later. lets goooooooo
love when that happens 😂👍👍
doing this on my tdi. Thanks for the parts list.
You got it :) Good luck, it's a fun little project!
what mounting plate did you use to mount it all to the old battery relocation? Thats the one piece I am missing to complete this job.
Sure thing - I used some ABS plastic & just cut it to size
Awesome! Thank you so much.
Happy I came across your video, i was about to go ahead with it and stumbled on yours, needless to say I have the products you mentioned on order simply because of how well you explained and took your time, and how clean this looks. Thanks! Great work, and keep it up!
Thanks for the amazing compliment! Glad it helped you out and good luck with your project! 🙌
Did you use a 125amp fuse for the 110 wires?
Yeah, I ended up running 125a fuses there.
Glad you asked, I couldn't find any 110a fuses anywhere lol
I know this is an old video but I just found it and I am ordering the stuff for my Jetta. You say in the video (2) 110 amp wires in the fuse box. Are you using a 125 amp fuse? I cant seem to find a 110 amp fuse for those fuse blocks.
Yep, ended up running 125a fuses. Thanks for watching!
@@supercarmio spectacular. Everything is ordered for this mod. Thanks for making a great video that is clear and concise.
Any issues with this set up since you installed the battery in the back
Not at all, still running it to this day!
Where did you get the black panel to mount the fuse? Awesome video keep it up, + love the rotary videos
Great video! Hope you respond to this since it’s been 6 years 😅 what did you use to mount the new fuses and T-block? Also would it be the end of the world to just fully remove the engine/tranny to chassis ground? I think it’ll make it just be alittle bit cleaner.
What did you do with the original ground cable with the smaller grounds that bolt there?
Are you referring to the ground strap that goes to the engine/transmission? I left it there.
Anyone know where I can get those plugs where the spare tire sit on? I am missing all 3 plugs under there
nice informative video Sir...
just want to clear one thing if you don't mind, @12:48 , what u did with the ground terminal in the engine bay?
you already grounded the battery in the boot right, then why there is another ground cable in the engine bay?
thank u...
Thanks friend! That's just the existing ground strap that was bundled with the battery ground. The other side connects to the engine/transmission. Essentially just another ground point for the engine to the chassis.
I'm going to do this to my MK4 Jetta. Have you had any problems with the rebuilt fuse panel?
I have not, it's been solid for me!
Hey so I’d like to do this same project to my GTI. Looking up the parts for it, the Stinger SHD821 HPM Series MANL/MIDI doesn’t seem to available and nor do they know when it will be back in stock. Could you recommend a different fuse box to use? I’m not very electrical savvy so idk if something like the KCT ANL will work the same or if the same fuses will work fine with it. Great tutorial video though, it makes me feel like I can take on this project without having much electrical knowledge.
Hey man! Sorry for the delayed response. Glad the video was helpful! From a quick search, it seems like this block should be similar (although quite a bit pricier) - www.sonicelectronix.com/item-153539-Wet-Sounds-WWX-FUSE-DIST-BLOCK.html
okay so i ordered basically everything you ordered except i went with a box that fits an optima red top 34 series instead. figured if i just got a sealed battery then i shouldnt have to worry about having a sealed box should make it to where the battery can fit in tighter places
Yeah man that makes sense - good luck with the install!
2:29 You didn’t cover the ground cable under the battery at all, completely skipped over it ! What did you do to ground your starter ? Still not starting
Hi. Did you overlap the positive cables coming from the starter motor?
Yep, you have the power coming from the battery directly to the starter and then another wire on top that is going to the fuse panel. 👍
@@supercarmio brill thankyou. Just done mine and didnt order enough cable. Got the rear fuse installed, main cable installed to the starter just waiting for another length to arrive so i can go from the starter to the t piece and then to the fuses. Ive already chopped the wires and installed the fuses and boxes.
Have you had any problems with the alternator not charging the battery? Read one the comments mentioning running negative back to the battery in the trunk to allow full power? ?
Just following your video and the steps. What you have done
Thankyou
@@jaymst7889 np! Awesome, sounds like you are almost there. I haven't had a single issue, it's been doing quite well. cheers
What 110 amp fuses did you use I’ve been looking and can’t find any
Just curious on your thoughts since I haven’t seen it asked yet. Could you locate your fuse panel in the trunk with the battery rather than in the engine bay by running the wire coming off the starter back through?
Yeah I believe you could -- downside is that you'd have to run additional wiring. I think it's more common to have a feed come up to the front and then split off from there. Also instead of just worrying about one line potentially shorting to ground (in the case it was damaged), you would then have to consider the wires coming from the fuse panel in the rear as well. Just my quick thoughts though - good question!
Love this setup, great work. I am getting the parts to do my audi TT. What I am confused about is the dimensions of the Stinger SHD823 block. Most pages say it is 6x5.5 inches, is that correct? Looks smaller in your engine bay. Trying to work out space before parts arrive...thanks
Really appreciate the kind words man 🙌 I’d be happy to help. it sounds like that might be the shipping dimensions. just measured one and it is ~3.5in x 2.5in
@@supercarmio That is more like it, super, thank you very much, helps a lot. Just couldn't believe it was that big..
@@videonow32 you got it!
where did you get the fuse box for the positive battery wire? cant find it
This one? ANL fuse holder: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KIR8M0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
@@supercarmio thank you, I meant the one with the Alan key and the one you put a 250amp fuse on
@@chriswise6374 Sure thing -- it was included in the following kit: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IZXGFIK/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1 If you don't need an entire kit, I did use the above linked ANL holder in my Evo w/o issue
Very nice!!! Gotta try this on my MK1 TT... Everything is still running good?
Thanks man! Yep, it's been awesome. Great peace of mind and much cleaner under the hood. One of my favorites mods to date 👍👍
Can I put all the connections all on one distribution block? Or does it have to be split for power or amperage?
Depending on the block you go with you certainly could. This particular one has an amperage rating of 300a iirc, so I felt more comfortable splitting my circuit into two.
hey can you clarify the ground side in the engine bay for me? looks like another 1.0g wire but im not sure where that came from
sure thing! there should be a ground going from the battery negative terminal to the body (underneath the battery tray) and then another going to the transmission.
supercarmio ok cool, thanks man, I thought so but I though I may have missed something. Great video by the way. Going to do a similar setup on my car. Very clean looking
@@Nate6133 anytime man! appreciate the kind words. it's one of my favorite mods to date. let me know how it turns out! 👍👍
Wait the little fuse u have to prevent battery damage does it come with the box?
Are you referring to the fuse holder near the battery? If so, usually it does not come with the fuse itself. So you'd need the fuse holder and the ANL fuse to go with it. 👍
I've ordered all the parts. What's the approximate size of the black plastic base?
Awesome! Just measured it - it's about 9"x6" 👍
What did you use to bolt into the original spare tire holder? Happen to know what treading would work?
Great info 🤛🏻
👍👍Thanks man! I had a bolt laying around, I believe it was M8x1.25 but not 100% sure.
supercarmio thanks for taking the time to reply
Great vid!!
I appreciate it!
@@supercarmio I do have a question
I’m looking for a vid or post on hooking up a catch can on a mk4 Jetta 2.0l avh
Can u help?!
Thanks
@@michaelwilliams5896 I'm not well versed with that engine - but from what I can tell you should have a PCV near your MAF which has a breather connection coming in from the valve cover. A catch can would go in between that connection.
Great video. I blew my starter leaving the battery grounded while doing this project. Everything is according to this video now with brand new starter. The car still won’t start, can you please let me know what are some common issues with shorting and why it will no longer start? Brand new battery brand new coil pack. Multimeter reads no voltage drops between connections. Every connection is 12.8v or higher, the starter receives power until I attempt to start it then it drops to .80v
At 12min45sec hes says now lets hook up that ground connections
Im looking onto it let me know I want to know too cause I was wondering I didnt start it yet but I was triggered by the fact thatI didnt have this ground anymore
Hey man love the video. I was wondering where you got the plastic base from for the fuses, thinking about doing this to my VR6
Thanks man!! I think I ordered it on Amazon, just searched for ABS plastic sheet, 1/4" thickness IIRC. Frikin love VR6s, one day I'll have one!
Sorry, I have another question, I did it a little differently, but used the same fuse blocks. They are not really sealed at all, have you had any issues with moisture of condensation? Have they held up well, did you do anything more to try and seal the fuse boxes, thanks...great video and love the fuse holders.
Thank you for the great feedback! The holders do come with a plastic piece that snaps on top, but like you said, they are not 100% sealed. I haven't had any issues TBH, but I guess you could probably add some weather striping or double sided foam around the perimeter if you were having issues. It's been a few years now and they are holding up great for me!
@@supercarmio Thank you for the reply...
good video man ... i should clean the area where the battery was in the engine bay also you shoud put some protected cover nut on the screw under the car , for water protection .
🙌 That's a great point. Thanks man, appreciate it!
Great video
I just got a question
What happened with alternator wire what go from alternator
Thanks! It's still connected to the fuse panel, last connection on the top box, 125a. 👍👍
Hey man amazing step by step video! I was just wondering what you did with the negative terminal wire? From the engine/transmission to the ground under the tray, did you then run it back to the battery or connect it somewhere else? Once again, amazing video!
appreciate it man! 🙏 I left that ground strap connected from the engine/trans to the chassis and that’s it 👍
Hey, great video very informative. Does the spare wheel cover fit and lay flat over the battery? If not is there a shorter battery that would work so the battery is completely hidden?
Thank you! Yes it does fit! If you wanted to conserve more space, you could go w/ a smaller form factor battery, maybe Miata size. Would depend on your electrical requirements though
Realy Nice job, it would be Nice if You relocate or hide that fuso panel, will be só much clean 👍
Thanks man! Yeah definitely, there's lot of spots you could hide it if wanted. 👍👍
Enjoyed the content! Definitely a sweet mod.
Thanks man! Glad it helped out
Does the trunk cover still fit over the battery box? How big of battery do you have and any slow cranking ever? I have a ~400 CCA battery in my Mk4 trunk and i always want to go bigger but have limited space
yep, the cover still fits, when it's on you can't really tell anything is underneath. h5 battery and it's been great - no difference at all in terms of cranking, etc. 👍👍
supercarmio Thanks for the info!
@@epgaynor anytime!
11:09 is that a aftermarket light switch. I never saw one like that ever!
haha no, nothing special. Maybe you don't recognize it because it's the standard US spec? No fancy rear fog lights or anything like you'd see in a euro switch for example.
@@supercarmio most cars have off, parking lights and low beams. And some newer cars have AUTO. But yours does not have parking lighrs
@@MauriceNL1 Yeah, mine seems much simpler in comparison. Thanks for the info
is there like a cover for the front fuses to protect them.. like the original ??
Yeah for sure - a cover is included w/ the distribution blocks 👍👍
supercarmio ok I figure that will do enough. Thanks 🤙🏻
@@jrea8401 anytime!
Is this still working good
It's been great - the MK4 is my daily (doesn't see too much mileage these days) but no issues.
@@supercarmio thank you
@@Euromike you got it
did you make that fuse terminal supporting plate? or do you have a link?
Yeah, just made it out of some ABS plastic. I cut out a rectangle and drilled out some holes for mounting.
@@supercarmio best battery relocation mod. Very clean bud
@ Thanks man, I really appreciate that 🙌
What front mount intercooler and piping is that
It is an old school Eurojet street kit. I've always appreciated the look & fitment of it.
Did you upgrade the alternator wire to a 0 gauge or did you leave it stock?
James Brady I left it as is. I did replace the starter wire as it’s right next to this panel and I had some extra 0 gauge. 👍
Did you connect the ground to the original spot or different location
relocated to the spot that used to hold down the spare tire 👍
Awesome good to know I am also haven’t issues finding a 110 amp fuse I tried checking the link you posted but nothing there I’ve searched google also and nothing is it 110 or 100?
@@dripydripsz9165 Yeah same, I ended up using 125As for those locations.
Can legitimately say I'm the first viewer on something..surely I must win a prize from youtube or something haha! Glad to see another Mk4 episode man, interesting that the battery relocation is a common mod, but it totally makes sense.
haha seriously, you should! thanks man! I should've done it sooner ;)
Hi, how many amps is the battery fuse you're running? Thanks. Nice relocation
Thank you! I am running a 200 amp fuse 👍👍
@@supercarmio thank you so much!
Guillermo G.V. anytime 👍
@@supercarmio You said in your video that it was a 250a. Did you change to a 200a fuse? For what reason? Just want to make sure I'm using the right one lol
@@super60city No worries! I've used both w/o any issue, I have done this type of modification on all my cars pretty much. Sorry for the confusion!
Does it have to be split into 2 sets of blocks or could you have one block that holds all 8 ?
You can definitely use one block! Just make sure it can support the amount of load you'll be putting through it. You can also omit the Y splitter if you find a big enough block. Good luck!
That's dope.
🙌Thanks my dude!
Do the wires from the original fuse box go in any specific order when rewiring them?
Nope, you can do it in whichever order you like - just make sure to protect them w/ the same amperage fuses they originally had.
Great video .
matthew lee thank you sir 🙌
Hell yea dude
🙌
What if you want to have your spare back there.
Yeah that's definitely a compromise you'll have to make. I just keep a plug kit & small compressor in all of my cars.
Don’t forget to clean the engine bay with pressure washer and degreaser before rebuilding the fuse terminal ! You will thank me later !
Good call!
Good.
that's 10 gauge wire? looks bigger to me
From the batt? It's 0 gauge if that's the one you're referring to. 👍
@@supercarmio thx, I thought you said 1 0 as 10 gauge, not 1 as pcs and 0 as gause, thinking to do the same but only because I want to add an extra fuse box and pull my own wires under the dash for my gadgets, nice vid.
@@DominoSixO no worries! thank you I appreciate that. This does clean things up quite nicely and you could def. add some more gadgets/accessories for sure.
Firstly, great how-to video. Second and most important do not waste money and time using garbage like aluminum wire for battery relocation or charging, BUY real Copper please. Companies make millions on the naive consumer buying these kits that are only useful in proper select applications. When automakers use pure copper to run your electrical why would you use anything less.
Thanks man! Yes, I totally agree. After performing relocations on other cars I would say using higher quality wire is worth it - I've been going with welding wire and have been pleased. Thanks for bringing this up
15:05 so so purdy?
I think so 😂👍
Flux capacitor
Roads...where we're going we don't need roads
Cancer-causing youtube music.
I can't find the 110 amp fuse you mention in the video. got any advice?
I would probably go with a 125amp fuse. Looks like it's available on Amazon 👍