Ñ me canso de ver esses seus vídeos mestre David desde o início vc é minha referência de um excelente trabalho parabéns ainda quero conhecê-lo pessoalmente
Greetings Mr. Sora I hope you are well, I notice that you have the pin alignment hole already plugged with a small wooden pin which is semi covered with the purfling (Just like Stradivari used to do). I was under the assumption that this is only possible if the purfling is placed after the box has been closed and the wooden pins already placed. But you have already placed the wooden pin before closing the box. How will the plates be located relatively to the ribs? Have you left a small portion of the hole uncovered at the inside of the back to insert perhaps a short pin on the blocks just enough to cover the part of the hole that is left empty?
Hi Nestor, I use the pin in the back when I make the outline of the edges, to quickly and accurately position it on the ribs and see the progress by evaluating the overhang from the ribs. Then I close the holes before purfling, so as to get the effect I like, the same as seen on the Stradivaris. To position the back on the ribs to glue it, I don't feel the need to use the pins because, with the ribs free from the form, no deformation of the rib outline has yet occurred, as happens once the back has been glued, so to glue the top the use of the pins is instead essential. Also, with my system of positioning the back before putting the glue, there is plenty of time for accurate positioning simply by taking as a reference the center lines of the back and ribs. (see here ruclips.net/video/Upf47DOGfK0/видео.html and here ruclips.net/video/Upf47DOGfK0/видео.html ). I know that some luthiers who do as I do, leave the pins slightly protruding from the gluing surface (about half a millimeter) so that they can still be used for positioning during gluing. It is a good system that works, but I prefer not to do it because I like to re-finish the gluing surface to clean it well and make it flat in case it was slightly distorted or swollen during the various working phases, and with the protruding pins I could not do it in the area of the blocks that for me it is essential that it is perfectly flat and clean for a perfect gluing. But if you want to use the pins for gluing the back you can try that way, it is the only way if you want to purfle before closing the box and you want the pins partially covered by the purfling "a la Stradivari" (very elegant😊).
@@DavideSora Thank you for the very comprehensive and detailed explanation. It makes perfect sense then since as you said there is minimal deformation prior to gluing the back. I actually placed the holes by accident in these positions, which inevitably will be covered by the purfling. As I understand based on what you explained for the back this will be no problem. However I have unfortunately done the same thing for the top, and the two holes for the locating pins for the top, are in the middle of where the purfling will be. So probably for the top I'll have to do what you suggested. Leave some of the wooden pin protruding because there is no other way to locate it on the ribs accurately. Kind regards, Nestor
@@nestorvassiliou4955 Yes, for the top it is very useful to use pins for gluing, so you should try the technique of leaving them protruding. Next time remember to place the pins in the top out of the purfling (as I do) so that the holes remain usable after purfling. Anyway, they will be completely or partially eliminated from the neck and saddle, or in any case hidden by the fingerboard and tailpiece.
Buongiorno Maestro, potrebbe dirmi dove posso trovare il letto da 1 mm. Finora ho usato un dogleg Hosco da 1,1 mm ma si è rotto, è durato pochissimo ed è piuttosto costoso.
Non so cosa intendi per "letto" da 1 mm", suppongo intendi il bedano (il piccolo scalpello) per scavare il canale. Se ho interpretato correttamente, quelli che uso io sono tutti modificati o autocostruiti utilizzando filo di acciaio armonico da 3 mm di diametro, sagomati e portati allo spessore desiderato con la mola e le pietre da affilatura. In questo modo puoi ottenere tutte le larghezze che vuoi.
@@DavideSora Mi scusi, intendevo il bedano. La ringrazio molto per la risposta. Mi ha aiutato molto, proverò a farne uno anche se non ho esperienza con la lavorazione dei metalli.
@@miguelgarciaferrer8008 Non è difficile farsi i bedani, se si usa la mola l'importante è non surriscaldare il metallo che altrimenti perde la tempra, eventualmente te la puoi cavare anche con le lime per portarli sulla misura precisa, che deve essere sempre leggermente più stretta del canale che dovrà tagliare, in modo da essere scorrevole e non scheggiare e rovinare i margini
Caro maestro, ho sempre avuto problemi nella filettatura della tavola. Alcuni stendono della cola sui bordi per indurrire un po le margini modo che il legno si tagliasse piu facile, altri no. La difficolta compare quando il coltello salta da una fibra al`altra e non posso controllare la profondita del taglio.Ci`o provato di tagliare le fibre invernali prima successivamente pero ad ottenere un canale nitido, non ci riesco. Se mi puo dare qualche consiglio in questo senso, Le ringrazierei.
Purtroppo non ci sono trucchi particolari, solo molta pratica:,-) però a volte tagliare nella direzione opposta (controvena) funziona meglio anche se sembra meno logico.
Un placer ver Sus vídeos. Saludos, Davide.
Ñ me canso de ver esses seus vídeos mestre David desde o início vc é minha referência de um excelente trabalho parabéns ainda quero conhecê-lo pessoalmente
Marvelous master-work. Very admirable. Thanks. Thumb up!
Que perfeição. Lindo trabalho, inspirador!
Grande Davide, come al solito molto utile.
Ciao
В этом сюжете звучит ваша скрипка?
Звуки очень чистые и насыщенные!
Потрясающее звучание!
It would be nice! But it's not my violin, it's Itzhak Perlman's Guarneri del Gesù "Sauret".😊
Utilissimo, ora ho le idee molto più chiare
Grazie!
Greetings Mr. Sora I hope you are well, I notice that you have the pin alignment hole already plugged with a small wooden pin which is semi covered with the purfling (Just like Stradivari used to do).
I was under the assumption that this is only possible if the purfling is placed after the box has been closed and the wooden pins already placed. But you have already placed the wooden pin before closing the box.
How will the plates be located relatively to the ribs? Have you left a small portion of the hole uncovered at the inside of the back to insert perhaps a short pin on the blocks just enough to cover the part of the hole that is left empty?
Hi Nestor, I use the pin in the back when I make the outline of the edges, to quickly and accurately position it on the ribs and see the progress by evaluating the overhang from the ribs. Then I close the holes before purfling, so as to get the effect I like, the same as seen on the Stradivaris.
To position the back on the ribs to glue it, I don't feel the need to use the pins because, with the ribs free from the form, no deformation of the rib outline has yet occurred, as happens once the back has been glued, so to glue the top the use of the pins is instead essential. Also, with my system of positioning the back before putting the glue, there is plenty of time for accurate positioning simply by taking as a reference the center lines of the back and ribs. (see here ruclips.net/video/Upf47DOGfK0/видео.html and here ruclips.net/video/Upf47DOGfK0/видео.html ). I know that some luthiers who do as I do, leave the pins slightly protruding from the gluing surface (about half a millimeter) so that they can still be used for positioning during gluing.
It is a good system that works, but I prefer not to do it because I like to re-finish the gluing surface to clean it well and make it flat in case it was slightly distorted or swollen during the various working phases, and with the protruding pins I could not do it in the area of the blocks that for me it is essential that it is perfectly flat and clean for a perfect gluing. But if you want to use the pins for gluing the back you can try that way, it is the only way if you want to purfle before closing the box and you want the pins partially covered by the purfling "a la Stradivari" (very elegant😊).
@@DavideSora Thank you for the very comprehensive and detailed explanation. It makes perfect sense then since as you said there is minimal deformation prior to gluing the back.
I actually placed the holes by accident in these positions, which inevitably will be covered by the purfling. As I understand based on what you explained for the back this will be no problem. However I have unfortunately done the same thing for the top, and the two holes for the locating pins for the top, are in the middle of where the purfling will be. So probably for the top I'll have to do what you suggested. Leave some of the wooden pin protruding because there is no other way to locate it on the ribs accurately.
Kind regards,
Nestor
@@nestorvassiliou4955 Yes, for the top it is very useful to use pins for gluing, so you should try the technique of leaving them protruding. Next time remember to place the pins in the top out of the purfling (as I do) so that the holes remain usable after purfling. Anyway, they will be completely or partially eliminated from the neck and saddle, or in any case hidden by the fingerboard and tailpiece.
@@DavideSora Yes of course, will do😁 La ringrazio per i consigli!
Buongiorno Maestro, potrebbe dirmi dove posso trovare il letto da 1 mm. Finora ho usato un dogleg Hosco da 1,1 mm ma si è rotto, è durato pochissimo ed è piuttosto costoso.
Non so cosa intendi per "letto" da 1 mm", suppongo intendi il bedano (il piccolo scalpello) per scavare il canale. Se ho interpretato correttamente, quelli che uso io sono tutti modificati o autocostruiti utilizzando filo di acciaio armonico da 3 mm di diametro, sagomati e portati allo spessore desiderato con la mola e le pietre da affilatura. In questo modo puoi ottenere tutte le larghezze che vuoi.
@@DavideSora Mi scusi, intendevo il bedano. La ringrazio molto per la risposta. Mi ha aiutato molto, proverò a farne uno anche se non ho esperienza con la lavorazione dei metalli.
@@miguelgarciaferrer8008 Non è difficile farsi i bedani, se si usa la mola l'importante è non surriscaldare il metallo che altrimenti perde la tempra, eventualmente te la puoi cavare anche con le lime per portarli sulla misura precisa, che deve essere sempre leggermente più stretta del canale che dovrà tagliare, in modo da essere scorrevole e non scheggiare e rovinare i margini
@@DavideSora Grazie mille
Caro maestro, ho sempre avuto problemi nella filettatura della tavola. Alcuni stendono della cola sui bordi per indurrire un po le margini modo che il legno si tagliasse piu facile, altri no.
La difficolta compare quando il coltello salta da una fibra al`altra e non posso controllare la profondita del taglio.Ci`o provato di tagliare le fibre invernali prima successivamente pero ad ottenere un canale nitido, non ci riesco. Se mi puo dare qualche consiglio in questo senso, Le ringrazierei.
Purtroppo non ci sono trucchi particolari, solo molta pratica:,-) però a volte tagliare nella direzione opposta (controvena) funziona meglio anche se sembra meno logico.