Gent.mo Maestro, vedo e rivedo i tuoi filmati ed imparo sempre qualcosa. Non posso trattenermi dal ringraziarti ancora per il lavoro divulgativo vero che continui a fare. Cordiali saluti
Thanks for posting such a great series of videos. I was wondering how to make the purfling "blank" (the sandwich of black/white/black before you cut it into 2mm strips). Is it possible for one to make one's own purfling? I wanted to try using a different wood (katalox instead of ebony) for the fingerboard, the pegs, the tailpiece, button, chin-rest. I wanted the purfling to match. (ie. katalox/maple/katalox) Is this a bad idea?
Hi Tom, thanks for your appreciation of my videos. Many luthiers buy ready-made purflings, but I think making them by hand gives a touch of class and personality to the finished work. You can see how I make mine in this video : ruclips.net/video/UNiqVc9ckBo/видео.html I'm sorry the video does not show how I make the strips because I had made them in some quantity a few years before I started making these videos and I'm still using those strips. In any case, the black strips are not in ebony but are in black-stained pear wood, according to the ancient Cremonese tradition, the same wood used by Stradivari, Amati and Guarneri. These strips are obtained from shavings 0.2 / 0.3 mm thick made with a hand planer and then stained black, but they can also be made of ebony or katalox if you like (I do not know katalox but I think is very similar to ebony). For the white central strip I use poplar (again the same of the ancient cremonese makers) but also maple is fine, in fact those you can buy already made are usually all in maple, stained black for the external strips.
@@DavideSora Thanks! I missed that video somehow. To make the 0.3mm thick pear strips, do you use something like a Stanley no. 8 jointer plane? Aren't the shavings all curled up? Do you attempt to make a 0.3mm thick shaving in one pass with the plane? Or do you laminate multiple thinner shavings?
@@tpistor I use a Stanley n.7 and the shavings are of course all curled up like a normal shavings. They are boiled in this condition to dye them, then still wet they will be unrolled and clamped between two wooden board and sheets of paper, when dry they will become straight and flat as you see in the video. Each 0.3 mm shaving is made in one pass, the wood can be wetted to facilitate cutting, or it can be done in two people, one pushing and one pulling the plane. A perfectly sharpened plane is a must and a very important detail is to use a splitted block of pearwood with a straight fiber (without too much ripple) so that it is continuous along the whole strip to prevent it from crumbling.
What you see in the video is 1.3 mm thick (0.3 + 0.7 + 03) but then I reduce it to a thickness of 1.2 or 1.1 mm (see at 02:30). Anyway different thicknesses can be used, I normally use 1.2 mm but sometimes even 1.1 mm. I think that from 1.0 to 1.3 mm is an aesthetically reasonable range (1.3 is too big for my taste). However the thing that has the greatest effect on the aesthetic appearance of purfling is the thickness of the individual strips, especially the central white one. I usuallyly do 0.3 mm the black stripes and 0.6 mm the white one (0.3+0.6+0.3=1.2), but I also did 0.2 and 0.7 (0.2+0.7+0.2=1.1) and other combinations are also possible (.e. 0.3+0.5+0.3 is found on some Cremonese violin with the "thin white strip" appearence).
Estimado David soy Nicolás de chile e visto todos sus video siempre e tenido las ganas de poder hacer un violín sé que esto no es fácil poder tener toda la informacion es un tiempo dominar la técnica pero siempre me a gustado este instrumento y me fascina poder lograr un poquito del arte del luthier yo también soy luthier o técnico. De saxofón me especialice en Francia en selmer paris mi pregunta usted hace preparación o stage a personas de otros países saber el tiempo o costos espero tenga tiempo y me pueda responder gracias igual de poder leer mi gran inquietud y pasión por este hermoso instrumento saludos desde chile .
Hola Nicolas, desafortunadamente no tengo tiempo para hacer stage y cursos, también la legislación italiana hace que sea muy difícil y complicado mantener a los aprendices en el laboratorio (debo contratarlo como empleado). Esta es también una de las razones por las que decidí hacer mis videos, para cumplir con las muchas preguntas como la tuya. Espero que sea como mirarme mientras estoy trabajando, y también puedes ver algunos detalles mejor que en la realidad!🙂
Davide Sora hola Davide entiendo agradesco tu respuesta y tu tiempo seguiré viendo tu videos y si tengo dudas te preguntaré por tu página que ya tengo muy agradecido hasta pronto gracias .
Gent.mo Maestro, vedo e rivedo i tuoi filmati ed imparo sempre qualcosa. Non posso trattenermi dal ringraziarti ancora per il lavoro divulgativo vero che continui a fare. Cordiali saluti
Thanks for posting such a great series of videos. I was wondering how to make the purfling "blank" (the sandwich of black/white/black before you cut it into 2mm strips). Is it possible for one to make one's own purfling? I wanted to try using a different wood (katalox instead of ebony) for the fingerboard, the pegs, the tailpiece, button, chin-rest. I wanted the purfling to match. (ie. katalox/maple/katalox) Is this a bad idea?
Hi Tom, thanks for your appreciation of my videos.
Many luthiers buy ready-made purflings, but I think making them by hand gives a touch of class and personality to the finished work. You can see how I make mine in this video : ruclips.net/video/UNiqVc9ckBo/видео.html
I'm sorry the video does not show how I make the strips because I had made them in some quantity a few years before I started making these videos and I'm still using those strips. In any case, the black strips are not in ebony but are in black-stained pear wood, according to the ancient Cremonese tradition, the same wood used by Stradivari, Amati and Guarneri. These strips are obtained from shavings 0.2 / 0.3 mm thick made with a hand planer and then stained black, but they can also be made of ebony or katalox if you like (I do not know katalox but I think is very similar to ebony). For the white central strip I use poplar (again the same of the ancient cremonese makers) but also maple is fine, in fact those you can buy already made are usually all in maple, stained black for the external strips.
@@DavideSora Thanks! I missed that video somehow. To make the 0.3mm thick pear strips, do you use something like a Stanley no. 8 jointer plane? Aren't the shavings all curled up? Do you attempt to make a 0.3mm thick shaving in one pass with the plane? Or do you laminate multiple thinner shavings?
@@tpistor I use a Stanley n.7 and the shavings are of course all curled up like a normal shavings. They are boiled in this condition to dye them, then still wet they will be unrolled and clamped between two wooden board and sheets of paper, when dry they will become straight and flat as you see in the video. Each 0.3 mm shaving is made in one pass, the wood can be wetted to facilitate cutting, or it can be done in two people, one pushing and one pulling the plane. A perfectly sharpened plane is a must and a very important detail is to use a splitted block of pearwood with a straight fiber (without too much ripple) so that it is continuous along the whole strip to prevent it from crumbling.
@@DavideSora Thank you for kindly taking the time to explain this.
Hi David, I want to ask - do you always have a thickness of glued veneer 1.2 mm? Judging by the videos, he is thicker !?
What you see in the video is 1.3 mm thick (0.3 + 0.7 + 03) but then I reduce it to a thickness of 1.2 or 1.1 mm (see at 02:30).
Anyway different thicknesses can be used, I normally use 1.2 mm but sometimes even 1.1 mm. I think that from 1.0 to 1.3 mm is an aesthetically reasonable range (1.3 is too big for my taste). However the thing that has the greatest effect on the aesthetic appearance of purfling is the thickness of the individual strips, especially the central white one. I usuallyly do 0.3 mm the black stripes and 0.6 mm the white one (0.3+0.6+0.3=1.2), but I also did 0.2 and 0.7 (0.2+0.7+0.2=1.1) and other combinations are also possible (.e. 0.3+0.5+0.3 is found on some Cremonese violin with the "thin white strip" appearence).
Estimado David soy Nicolás de chile e visto todos sus video siempre e tenido las ganas de poder hacer un violín sé que esto no es fácil poder tener toda la informacion es un tiempo dominar la técnica pero siempre me a gustado este instrumento y me fascina poder lograr un poquito del arte del luthier yo también soy luthier o técnico. De saxofón me especialice en Francia en selmer paris mi pregunta usted hace preparación o stage a personas de otros países saber el tiempo o costos espero tenga tiempo y me pueda responder gracias igual de poder leer mi gran inquietud y pasión por este hermoso instrumento saludos desde chile .
Hola Nicolas, desafortunadamente no tengo tiempo para hacer stage y cursos, también la legislación italiana hace que sea muy difícil y complicado mantener a los aprendices en el laboratorio (debo contratarlo como empleado). Esta es también una de las razones por las que decidí hacer mis videos, para cumplir con las muchas preguntas como la tuya. Espero que sea como mirarme mientras estoy trabajando, y también puedes ver algunos detalles mejor que en la realidad!🙂
Davide Sora hola Davide entiendo agradesco tu respuesta y tu tiempo seguiré viendo tu videos y si tengo dudas te preguntaré por tu página que ya tengo muy agradecido hasta pronto gracias .
1.2 mm is the final measure of Filettatura?
1.2 is the thickness of the purfling strips and so probably about the final measure, apart from some glue swelling, maybe......
Of course 1.2 it's not the only purfling measure, you can range from 1 mm to 1,3 mm for violin
Davide Sora thanks again!!