How Small Can You 3D Print Gears?
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- Music: Minecraft soundtrack
Thankyou to Elegoo for supplying me with a mars 5 ultra to make a few videos with.
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My name is Chris, I am a 3D printing hobbyist from australia. I dont really specialise in anything specific, but 3D printed tools and tabletop accessories are some things youll probably seen quiet often. I do all my 3d printing on a Ender 3, which I highly recommend as a budget printer. Currently I only run 1 printer but I hope to expand that in the future. Recently acquired a photon 0 to do resin printing with. I like to share all my 3D printing ideas for free although I do plan to sell stuff in the future. Most of my projects will be mostly 3D printed with a few non printed components included, these can often be found on ebay. I actually use the cheapest filament I can get for all my projects, again I hope to change this in the future.
Those prints were all over exposed.
i wonder if you had the resin exposure dialed in for those prints as the small gears looked overexposed compared to the sliced file preview. you may get better prints if you dial in your exposure a bit.
Yeah the settings were the main issue here, with dialed resin and exposure he shouldnt have an issue with the ones shown. a better washing setup would also go quite a ways.
While this is potentially true, there's also something to be said for working within the constraints of your tools as-they-come
@@mistaecco that's just nonsense in 3D printing. Even with the recent advanced FDM printers you still need at least some settings for different filaments. That goes just doubly so for resin.
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, your stuff is insane keep these awesome videos coming!❤
also am I trippin or is this trailmakers music
Great video, as always! I'd love to see a similar video for FDM printers, I have found that gears with smaller teeth tend to have more failed prints and I've never found the sweet spot for compact gears that print reliably.
With better tuning you can absolutely get better results! Your prints look over exposed which will ruin fine detail. Spend an hour dialling in the settings for your resin, you’d be amazed at the improvements that could be made. You can also tune for dimensional accuracy which would also be important for gears.
I agree. Even my cheap 2k resolution generic printer gave way better results. Of course after proper configuration. Each resin is a bit different, need to account also for that. You can do better, way better. I would suggest printing a calibration model for resin printers. Do it several times by dialing in the settings. You should get at least 0.1mm precision on the edges. Keep up the good work. I enjoy your videos!
Started smiling when i realized that he uses Minecraft music in background :)
I wonder how small of a single point threading lathe you could make.
I've found resin to be a poor bearing surface for gears
lets go thank you for the new video, continue like that
The resin used is critical, I've produced smaller gears than this at very high quality, the key is getting the exposure correct and using the right resin (for example Siraya Tech Fast Mecha ABS-Like, this is expensive but will give much better results and the only resin I found suitable after many tests) . I've typically made gears at mod 0.2 and mod 0.3 in my clock project which you can check out on my channel should you wish. All your teeth, at all scales, do not look precise - they should compare well to machined gears which they do not. Small teeth do not have to be strong as they only take tiny forces. If they are breaking then you may have the wrong modulus. Note: with tiny gears the critical issue is the pivot/bush/jewel interface or micro bearing and their run-out accuracy. The resin above is machinable on a micro lathe unlike many resins. This means I can find tune the gears once made and add staffs/axles and pinions etc. I design the gears so that I add the hardened steel pinion and machine the gear edge that was attached to the plate. I use a flexible plate so they can be removed without damage. Working with small gears is a high precision process.
My elegoo mars 4 default settings needed some tweaking. As far as I understand, there’s a trade-off between resolution and strength of the prints. Also, as some commenters noted, orientation of the print plays big role. I came to SLA printing after FDM, and I must say that knowledge isn’t very transferable, you need to learn a lot additional info about the process; FDM intuition can fail you. Thanks for the video!
A year or so ago I bought a resin printer (which one is not so important because ultimately they all do the same thing, just resolution and ease of use which really changes). My biggest gripe with resin printing was the cleanup/mess/toxic nature of it all. I had read people online saying that was a pain, and I thought "oh how bad could it be". Turns out, it's a major pain in the butt. Resin printing is definitely something you only want to use where you really have a good reason to do so. Also, I found that with ABS-like resins my parts warped over time and no longer fit/ran together smoothly. I am not sure if I didn't cure them properly or if that's just normal for resin prints. All in all I was super happy to get an FDM printer again, its so easy and convenient, and I don't feel like I am going to get cancer every time I use it. I have a lot of respect for people who have the time to persist with resin printing. I hope they have very good respirators.
The small ones need to have better tooth profile. The design isn't for plastic, but what kind of resin? Mine can produce pointy sharp things so teeth shouldn't be a problem, the shape of the tooth is what is important at that size.
Really crummy gears. If I saw correctly, they were on supports but oriented flat? Worst way propably one could choose. Either angled or straight on plate, if you can get that particular resin parts off the plate.
Definitely need to run those gears over some high grit sandpaper to get rid of the support marks, also try to angle the parts when printing as you always want the layer cross sectional area as small as possible to minimise peel force and warping.
Not sure about that for very small gears since you might get some artifacts
May I suggest printing the .1 gears on a different angle and dialling in the resin exposure more.
On a vertically angled plane, you should be able to easily get functional teeth down to .025 on that resin printer.
Well, it didn't really print perfect, did it? Those prints were overexposed, so the settings definitely need tweaking. You should be able to get m.1 easily.
Well, so much for the idea that resin printers can't print dimensionally accurate parts.
it's incredible to see the video and the comments. based on previous videos, i can see that chris will read them and use the constructive criticism to step up and create even better gears and content. what and awesome comunity.
Now youve gotten me wondering about helical and herringbone gears, wouldn't the longer tooth length being spread out over a radius offer more grip in the .2 range?...
You can make very small gears with a blade and a way larger gear, cutting a tooth on the small gear attached to the large gear, and moving the large gear by 1 tooth.
(That also works with metal too)
If you want even smaller you can probably etch a copper sheet, but I'm not sure what you'd be doing at that scale.
and what do you think of making a machine that makes gears, they use this in watchmaking but I think that making one in 3D should not be one of your biggest creations, in any case your videos are always so beautiful to watch.
Exactly what I've been looking for! Thank you! Any chance you could do a follow-up with wear tests and some accuracy tests? If you do ever get the tooth-break test setup figured out, that'll be a good day!
Great video. I would love to see some strength mes.
I love a low effort video to appease the sponsors 😇
I'm a little surprised to hear you say gears are essential knowledge for 3d printing. I've never printed gears and only make functional parts. I guess my function in life is less complicated than yours 😋
Gears are an excellent functional part to print. You can get all sorts of parts that are otherwise expensive or impossible to find. This includes worm wheels to go with available metal worms, to give reduction ratios different than the few ratios typically available.
@@daliasprints9798I agree and understand. He's just said one of the most important skills for 3d printing which seemed like a shallow statement to make, especially since many people don't print functional stuff ever.
Those clocks looked cool
nice vid
W elegoo
Thanks!!