Ep: 7 Husqvarna TC 125 Top End
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- Опубликовано: 7 апр 2019
- Today I do the Top End on my Husqvarna TC 125. Enjoy!
Music:
Video- www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQmFG...
Joakim Karud - Dreams - / joakimkarud
Video- • Video
Maxwell Young - Spark - / maxzwell 
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Most comprehensive and understandable video about 125(150) KTM(Husq) top end rebuild.
Great presentation.
BE FOREWARNED: when taking those circlips off make sure you put a rag underneath to prevent that clip from dropping down. Same goes for your power valve clip. Also when you are driving out the wrist pin make sure you support the piston because you can damage your lower rod bearing.
Gynn462 thanks! Cool to see viewers paying attention. I actually did think about this I just did not include it in the shot in the video. I am careful with this now and have almost lost a clip on my brothers 85 top end rebuild. Thanks for watching the video. Hope you liked it and I appreciate the feed back.
Gynn462 Also, I should have had a rag to catch the C clips from the wrist pin. I just kind of picked them out and they went flying and luckily did not go in the engine.
@@owensworkshop I really enjoyed the video. Good camera work and background music. I'm definitely subscribing and I look forward to watching your other videos.
Gynn462 my garage is under construction so the videos have run out and I am also goi g through finals in school and have not had time to work on any videos. I still have some content to work with but not much. The XR is in storage so I won't be working on it until spring. I think the next videos will be tutorial type videos or just how I do stuff. Maybe gear checks or tech tip videos. Maybe I could make moto life hack tips.
The last top end I rebuilt was a 1977 yz 80 back in the day, now I have a TC 250 good job.
Just watching this now, all’s looking very good! You definitely have knowledge of what you’re doing :). Looking to buy a TC 125 myself soon ;D
Thank you. My bike will be for sale next spring if you want it :). You can also check out my updated top end video here ruclips.net/video/mMnXoHH5Vu8/видео.html
@@owensworkshop Well I live in the Netherlands :P, so that’s very difficult. Im going to check the vid. I saw a few tc 125’s for around 3000-4300 euro’s for like 2016-2018 models. Is that too much or is it good?
@@bertsmit6441 Darn.
As far as getting a bike. Those prices seem good assuming that you are buying a used bike. Also, look at the following to determine if the bike is in good condition.
- make sure you know the bikes hours
-inspect the steering stem bearings, swing arm pivot bearings, and wheel bearings for wear and if they have been serviced or are in good shape.
- see if the pipe and silencer have been cleaned and repacked.
-check the fork and shock seals visually and by pulling the mud scrappers down on the fork tubes.
- check and see if cables have wear marks or if there is wear on the triple clamps, frame, or on other parts from the cables.
-check to see if the radiators are bent.
-look in the radiators and see if the coolant is topped off and in good condition.
-ask if a top or bottom end has been done. (40-60 hrs on a top end. bottom ends can go for 60-100+ hrs depending on how hard the bike is ridden.
-inspect the brake and clutch fluids to see if they are in good condition.
-inspect the brake pads and rotors to see if the pads are good and if there is friction between the pads and rotors.
- check to see that the air filter is clean and that the chain tension is good. A sign that the bike has not been in good care is if those two things are in poor shape.
-check the sprockets. some people replace chains and not sprockets which is not a good idea since they all wear as one unit.
- check for hidden dirt on the underside of the gas tank and seat as well as the frame to see how well the bike has been cleaned.
-ask what products the person has used so you know if the parts and lubricants are good.
-check the wheels and spoke tension to see if the wheels are true and if the spokes are in good shape and tight.
Those are some good general rules to look for a decent bike. Good luck!
@@owensworkshop thanks a lot mate! really handy info :D
Owen, what crowfoot wrench kit did you use to tighten the nuts in the power valve area, if you don't mind asking?
Craftsman 6 point 10pc Metric crowfoot set
You only change the piston ? Why not the cilinder ? Is it only piston rings that wear ? And is it not possible to change the piston if you let the motor in the frame,so only cilinder take off ?
Correct. Only change the Piston, rings, wrist pin bearing, and gaskets.
The cylinder will wear and become larger in diameter, for this reason, KTM sells two sizes of pistons ( I and II). Piston II is to be installed when the bore diameter becomes larger (wears) and is between 54.012mm-54.025mm.
I do change top ends while the engine is in the frame and I only remove the cylinder.
Checkout my updated video here: ruclips.net/video/mMnXoHH5Vu8/видео.html
What piston do you run? I’m running pro x right now in my ktm 125
OEM piston size I
The part where he didnt pit a rag in the engine when taking the circlip out🤬🤬🤬
Agreed. I was just a beast and did it like a pro but next time I will stuff a rag in there since it's not worth the risk.
What thickness gasket you use?
Lenny Stagg I installed a .50mm. I am in Minnesota USA at about 1000ft of elevation above sea level running 91 octane non oxy. I would recommend checking what your gasket is and then ordering that size or the correct size for your region (check with local dealership). You can order the Ktm kit which comes with all the sizes made for your bike or order the specific size you need in the oem parts selection on Rocky Mountain atv.
Hope this helps.
Owen
Owen Ruth Yh I have all the gaskets it looks like there is two gaskets in top of each other. When I measure it do I match it? Won’t it be squished and have to up?
Lenny Stagg separate the two gaskets and measure each individually. I try and measure the gasket in an area that is lighter in color and looks the most new because it will give me the most true number to the gaskets original thickness. Take each number you record and find the closest gasket to each. (For example if the measurement on a gasket is .42 and the kit has a .40 and 4.5, round up to the larger number to compensate for compression of the gasket.) Bottom line is that you want the new gasket(s) to be the same thickness or slightly more then the old gasket(s) measurement. Do not round up in thickness by more than .05mm because in some cases the gasket may have expanded due to temperature or oil. (Another example of measurement is if you get an overall measurement of .48mm for two stacked gaskets and the kit has a .2 and .3, choose those two gaskets to get a new stacked gasket thickness of .5mm which is slightly thicker then .48mm which will account for compression of the gaskets).
Hope this helps.
Owen
Lenny Stagg when you measure the gaskets dont squish them to much. Get a measurement under light pressure and then comment back and tell me what your measurements are and what gaskets you have so I can help you select sizes if you would like.
Owen Ruth Yh cheers will do
Newbie
Mekanik Brutal ?
@@owensworkshop you seem as a new mecanic ....
Mekanik Brutal I see. In what regard am I a novice mechanic?
@owen's workshop don't let these ass hats bug you. I've been doing this a long, long time. Your video was very good, good lighting, good steady camera, notes about what wasn't on the footage. Clean shop, clean tools, clean hands good work and thanks, now I'm confident doing the one in my garage today.
Oiling the gasket? wtf, just use a bit off grease, but oil bruuhhh, and take your cilinderhead off and replace the headgaskets....
I can't remember why I used oil this time. I agree with the grease; In my updated video I used grease. Also, I didn't do head gaskets since I didn't remove the head from the cylinder. All that stuff was clean and tight so in my opinion there was no need.
Thanks for checking out the vid and thanks for the good input!