Watching you pull the filter without using the drain tool is testimate to why the tool is provided. I just used the drain tool and it greatly reduces the oil spatter and mess. I work clean and there is no need to be spraying that brake cleaner all over everything. Gloves however are must.
Very straightforward and informative. Just bought a '15 LE and I cannot believe Toyota was stupid enough to use a cartridge-style filter in this day and age. If anyone is interested, Baxter Performance in Washington state sells a spin-on filter conversion kit.
Thank you Moetoe for pointing this out in the video. I just had my 2012 Toyota Camry inspected for engine noise on startup. The noise starts when the engine is cold and it lasts for 1-2 seconds before going away. The Toyota dealer stated Toyota that the oil is too thin, almost like water. Toyota recommended going with the 5W-20 just as you've mentioned. I with you on that, I want my Toyota to last, not wear out before 200,000 miles. If I didn't want a car for longevity, I would've bought some other car brand. Thanks for the tip! :)
@@moetoescooter5499 : I know this is an old post, I hope you still answer my question: can you please provide a link to that Toyota service bulletin about using 5W20 oil instead of 0W20? I drive a Ford using 5W20, so it would be convenient for me to use the same oil in my wife's Camry.
i just bought a 2015 certified 2.5l camry w/ 14000 miles .. it had over 5qts of oil in it when i drained it today...refilled it w/5qts 5w20... and it was at perfect level on the dipstick....your info makes sence... thanks for this great info...
Without taking the drip plug off you miss replacing the additional smaller o-ring that comes with the filter as well. I wonder how long that will last without replacement? I assume you would develop a leak when that gasket fails. I understand it will take a few minutes more, but it makes it less messy and you can then replace the o-ring as well. As a compromise you can take off the whole thing then remove the drain plug and replace the gasket on the bench.
My manual on my 2013 says that you may use 5w20 once but the next oil change MUST be 0w20. In other words the factory acts like 5w20 may hurt the motor over the long haul.
So you're concerned with not breaking the oil filter cap but you don't seem worried about damaging the threads with a screwdriver to remove the o-ring. Read the instructions with the oil filter about removing o-rings. There is no advantage to using 5W-20 over 0W-20.
I thought that I would comment on the transmission fluid change as the question has come up a couple times in the comments and you mention it. I had the transmission fluid changed at my local Toyota dealership. It was listed as transmission "flush" on their computer system and cost $199. This was what many of us know as a fluid exchange, using a machine to replace the old fluid with new as the old comes out. There are NO added chemicals. This is better than a "drain & fill", which they also offer.
When removing the filter cup, I had better luck using a large socket that fit the hut on the oil filter tool. My filter was on o tight that 3/8' extension and ratchet didn't have the oomph.
You didn't have to jack up the car one side after another side. There is a jack point at the centre of the front frame. Also, you didn't have to create mess when removing the filter cartridge. There is a drain cap just for that purpose.
i agree about the drain cap to prevent a mess especially for diyers but i have issue where they overtorqued it and when i try to remove the entire housing turns...any suggestions on getting it loose. i haven't changed oil in this car before so what tools would i use to safely loosen the cap once the entire housing is off the engine. also my drain plug is stuck on and i can't get it to budge. i'm looking at the direction he is turning and it looks like he's turning the both clockwise to remove it???
no its counterclockwise, luckily mine was easy to remove on the first time, just a few taps on a ratcheting combo 14mm. then i dropped the washer in the oil drain container, damn had to fish it out. i reused it, pretty new looking
i was looking for a center point under the engine but didnt see it. i used the L frame rail and one jackstand on the L rail, basically like here but my jackstand has a wider mouth and this poly boot on it too i got on summit years ago, the rail fit right in mine. back tire was still touching ground
Thank you for the video, may I ask you what is the oil change interval on 2.5 liter Toyota engine? I was told by the Toyota sales agent that it is six month or 8000 km, but the internet suggests 10000 miles or one year for the synthetic oil 0W-20. Both 0w-20 - and 5w-20- are IDENTICAL once the car is up to temperature. The difference is how thin those oils are when the car is cold. Neither the or the flow enough in the cold to properly lubricate your engine. However, the 0w-20 is thinner and does LESS damage at start up than the oil. Also how do you recycle used oil?
The oil filters i have seen come with this plastic tubing, dont really know what it is all i know is that it’s used to drain the oil out of the filter or something like that. Comes w a gasket. Is that necessary to use? Thanks for the video, great job.
OK: How about using 5w30 full synthetic during summer months where the coolest over night will be 50º F absolute minimum? BY the way Brian may need to recheck his facts about oil viscosity and robustness under high ambient temps. By the way again, I always fill the filter/housings as full as possible with fresh oil ( especially easy on totally vertical filters such as this one.) Also: cold winter months will have 0W20 for cold starts etc.
the difference is the viscosity when its cold. the 0W is going to be less viscous than the 5W. Once they reach operating temperature, they will be the same viscosity. If youre in a cold climate you will DECREASE engine wear using 0W. If you live in florida, youre better off with 5W.
i bought new filter and it came with big and little o ring and a round plastic thing with threads on one end, i did not see little o ring or plastic thing in your video, and i could not find a place for plastic thing so i didn't put it in, your video is incomplete
I live up in Canada and last winter I was starting my Camry in temperatures as low as -37F. with no block heater. That is when your using your 0W 20 to its maximum capabilities, its get flowing through the engine much faster in extreme conditions. Most places in the U.S.A never see that type of cold, so running a 5w 20 wouldn't hert an engine.
Thank you for the information on the service bulletin. Is there any way I can find that information and take a look for myself? Nice video thank you. I'm also trying to figure out how to change out my transmission fluid with a transmission without a dipstick. Do you have a video for that? If not, do you have any advice. Thanks for your time!
Most transmissions are running world standard fluid and "they say" you don't have to change the fluid for the life of the trans. If you are to change the fluid you will have to pump the fluid into the fill hole. It is self-leveling once it starts coming back out of the fill hole it is full. Even if you drain the fluid from the plug there should still be several quarts still in the internals of the trans and converter. The only way to truly get all the old fluid out is to flush the trans with a machine. we normally use about 12-14 quarts to preform the flush. If you take your car into a Toyota dealer to have this flush you may be told that world standard fluid doesn't have to be changed. Just be insistent and be prepared to spend some money it's not cheap. On a side note I tried to find the article about the oil for someone else that posted and could not find it. However, I read that article in 2011. I can't wait to see what the 2018 0w-18 brings lol. Toyota is not the company it once was.
Ack, I agree it is not the same company. I used to be able to do a tranny drain and fill in an hour and now there is a special procedure for these WS 6-speeds without a dipstick. You're definitely right though, under the hood everything is easy to get to and work on. I really like that in a car. I'm just bothered by this trans fluid thing because I've heard on the forums that Toyota defines "lifetime" as 120k miles. Thanks for the timely response.
@@moetoescooter5499 Agreed. I serviced my truck transmission every 35k miles. Took a ton of fluid, and I used BG products. Quite expensive, but it's at 140k miles and never had an issue. Beats the Hell out of walking.
@@moetoescooter5499 Using a flush machine to blast metal particulate-filled dirty transmission fluid through all the tiny capillaries of a transmission is bad and could lead to internal damage and premature wear. Remember what happens to the clear ocean water on the shallow shore of a beach when you start waving your hand rapidly above the sand on the bottom. That is essentially what is happening to all the settled metal particles at the bottom of your transmission when you blast the fluid during a machine flush. Sure, those "jiffy" shops love these things because they can hook up a tube and push a button and get it done in one shot and charge you a fortune. It's not their transmission so they don't really care about any long term damage these machines may create. There is a lot of info (and controversy) about the dangers of machine flushing transmissions online. The better way is to perform 3 separate drain & fill sessions since, as you mentioned, each gravity-based fluid drain still leaves a good amount in the tranny. But each drain, spaced around 500 miles of driving apart, makes the fluid cleaner and cleaner. It's just a 30-45 min weekend DIY job each time start to finish, so its not really a big deal to do it right without causing unintended damage by plugging up tiny internal ports and coating the gears with metal particulate.
I just had to use an impact wrench to get my oil filter off. Yes I know that's bad. It was a last resort...This was my first time. I just bought this car two months ago and the previous owner always had it done at a Valvoline lube shop. Anyway...at 2:36 you show that there is a tab. Is this tab holding the cap from unscrewing like safety wire? Are we supposed to wedge this out of the way? Is this why I had such problems?
Stuck Oil Filter Everyone who has this system should be prepared for a worse case scenario. Make sure you have the following... 1. The proper Motivx* oil filter cap wrench. Item #MX2320 for all Toyota/Lexus/Scion engines 2.0 liters and larger using a cartridge style oil filter or item #MX2321 for all engines smaller than 2.0 liters using a cartridge style filter. 2. A 27 mm ½ inch drive socket 3. A ½ drive breaker bar (18 inches or longer in length. If an oil filter cap seems difficult to remove, only the above items should be used (or equivalent tools). Do not simply use a ⅜ inch drive ratchet or ratchet with extension as these will sometimes result in breakage of the oil filter cap wrench or the oil filter cap. Always make sure the teeth on the wrench are properly engaged with the tabs on the oil filter cap. To prevent reoccurrence of the problem •Make sure new o-rings are properly lubricated before installing. •Use a torque wrench to install the oil filter cap to no more than 18 ft.lbs (25 N•m). Oil filter drainplug = 10 ft.lbs. (13 N•m) * If you think the Motivx tools are too expensive at least consider the following... Do not buy an oil filter cap wrench that is made from cast aluminum. Only buy one that is forged. Do not buy one that is strictly a cap wrench that does not have teeth. Do not buy one that claims to fit all models or even all four cylinders. The 2.0 and 2.5 liter four cylinder engines use the same oil filter cap wrenches as the six and eight cylinder engines use. Only the 1.8 and 1.3 liter engines use a different size oil filter cap and oil filter cap wrench. If the oil filter for your four cylinder vehicle comes with one o-ring instead of two then your vehicle takes the same wrench as a Prius or Corolla. If your oil filter comes with two o-rings & a drain tool then your oil filter cap takes the same wrench as the six and eight cylinder engines. Some companies claim their wrench works for all four cylinders but on the 2.5 liter engines that smaller wrench does not engage the teeth on the wrench to the tabs on the oil filter cap. It may work if your oil filter cap is not stuck but it is a poor choice. They are mislead.
It doesn't. 0w-20 by definition is better oil. The reason is because it heats up to and holds a more stable temperature than weighted oil. Do your own research. This guy also says to use 5 quarts when this car only takes 4.6. Would not take any of the advice in this video.
Being a Toyota mechanic/tech what's your opinion on the vavoline maxlife synthetic atf vs Toyota WS, it's been my experience that the WS is stating to breakdown at roughly 35k miles I'm not sure if it's the high heat environment in my state or what, but like you I'm looking to keep my Camry for a long long time, I don't think it's worth doing drain and refills every 30k with WS when I can do 60k intervals with something else.. thoughts??
Great video.Have you done a transmission drain and fill.Online it says to get the factory Toyota ws transmission fluid out because its not synthetic and to put synthetic in it.What would you recommend.
I have seen bad things from not using the recommended fluid. Mostly shudder shifts Most transmissions are running world standard fluid and "they say" you don't have to change the fluid for the life of the trans. If you are to change the fluid you will have to pump the fluid into the fill hole. It is self-leveling once it starts coming back out of the fill hole it is full. But, even if you drain the fluid from the plug there should still be several quarts still in the internals of the trans and converter. The only way to truly get all the old fluid out is to flush the trans with a machine. We normally use about 12-14 quarts to preform the flush. If you take your car into a Toyota dealer to have this flush you may be told that world standard fluid doesn't have to be changed. Just be insistent and be prepared to spend some money it's not cheap.
Help! I Just took my 2012 camry to a "non toyoto mechanic" for an oil change. The mechanic broke the plastic filter housing and had to replace it, said the tabs broke. Was told it was replaced with a metal housing. What should I do?
The threads are thin. If both parts are made of metal you can damage both parts. I suggest you stay with the plastic and handle it carefully. If you cross thread it or break it, it is better to replace the filter housing that have to replace the crankcase.
ok ok ok...i'm getting confused and i can't get my drain plug off. it looks to me like he's going cw when removing the bolt. i realize he is at front of car and bolt is facing back of car. Is there an easy way for me to be sure i'm pulling ratchet in right direction from front of car? i'm facing the bottom of the car on the floor and i'm pulling the 14mm crescent wrench toward the passenger side. that is correct isn't it??? i'm on the garage floor laying under the car with not much room. lol and the filter housing came loose when i try to remove the cap so they overtorqued it like what he's saying is common and did himself. I prefer to do it as designed so it isn't so messy...since i'm under here. any suggestions on safely removing it once i have the housing off and what tools to use???
I always recommend staying in the viscosity range. However, you can try it if your car has high mileage. Although, If it starts taping when driving change back to a thinner oil immediately.
You overfilled it. It only holds 4.6 quarts and that's with a long drain. 0W20 is a very robust oil. It won't harm the engine. 5W20 will cause more wear during cold starts in the winter, which is when most engine wear occurs. I think you were misinformed.
....... I work at a Toyota Dealer. I'm Not misinformed. Also, if you noticed I didn't start the motor. That oil which is over the full dot on the dipstick will go down when the filter fills with oil. It actually calls for 5.2 quarts per Toyota but, 2/10 of a quart is no big deal. I have to ask. Why are you watching a video on how to change oil if you know so much about it? Anyway, my info is sound thanks for watching.
5.2ish is only for an engine rebuild and 4.6ish is for an oil change. You will have oil leaks before long. I'd use 0W30 before using 5W20 if you like to push the engine hard. The most important is to use a good synthetic and don't overfill.
The w stands for it's winter viscosity the( - 20 )stands for it's range of viscosity at different temperatures. So 0 to 20 is it's viscosity range and 5W- 20 is staying within that viscosity range. 0W-30 would be going beyond it's viscosity range and that could really affect the VVTI. I don't think it would hurt the motor but, you would have a noticeable loss of power. I don't know where you get your info but it's wrong. When it comes to viscosity you don't want to make the liquid so thick the ports or the pump can't handle it. BTW rebuilds have to do with engine bore and nothing to do with lubrication or how much oil is needed to fill it.
Don't know who are are asking.... But For me, yesterday I could not spell TECh..Nic...iAn now, I R 1... lol However, I guess that is an adequate question seeing how every ASE Test I have taken says technician A. says dumb shit. Technician B. says Dumber shit. Who is Right A.B. C. both or D neither. So it appears that as an industry we know that some techs are retarded. But, I do not hold a current master certification if that's what your asking. Although, I can tell you that you should always educate yourself. Companies tell the public what they want them to know. Same with techs. The article that I referenced came straight from the engineer's testing the new ( at the time ) federally mandated 0 - 20. I doubt I would be able to find that article now.
No need to use 5W20 in the newer vehicles. The tolerances in newer engines seals and ports are designed for thinner oils. Run the recommended until you hit over 100k then you can switch to the 5w20.
Snug it up indeed, i.e., don't over tighten. I think the manual says 25 Newton meters, which ain't much. I bought my Camry used, and that mother wouldn't come off with 200 ft. lbs. of torque. Finally just decided to take it off with an air chisel. That "plastic" is some tough sh#t, I don't think you'll be breaking it with a 3/8 ratchet wrench. Speaking of the plastic, I replaced it with an aluminum canister, which would be a similar material as the block. I think the plastic threads or the dissimilar materials may be the problem with these canisters "sticking," not the over tightening so much.
Actually aluminum to aluminum causes more galling than aluminum to plastic, which is why I stuck with plastic when I replaced mine. As long as you change your own oil and only torque to specs, you should not have a problem.
@@stevensevek6151 You're right -- problems happen when you allow others to do simple maintenance that you could do yourself. As an example, whenever I get new tires at Discount Tire Direct, they pump 'em up to 40-45 psi, even when I ask them ahead of time not to do that. Specs say 32 psi for my car. They do that every time, and I let air out of every tire before leaving the lot. And I have never had anyone else change my oil, ever. Before we were married, my wife had her oil drain plug fall out on the highway after using a quick-change place that hired some guys with a room-temperature IQ. When you do it yourself it gets done right.
Love this video, and reference it every time I change my daughter's oil in her 2013 Camry. But I will say, I use the access drain and the the plastic drain "straw" that comes with every Toyota oil filter made for this car every time. It prevents the huge oil flood from dumping out everywhere as we see at 2:56. When you drain the oil first the way it was designed, that doesn't happen. It all goes out the plastic straw drain fitting right into the pan with no mess. Then unscrewing the oil cover makes no mess. Watch the first 1 minute of this video to see how it is use: ruclips.net/video/nBBjo71k22s/видео.html
@@hunterfoster1714 It's not a mess if it's done right. (Attach a short hose to it or use a bottle to collect the oil.) Besides, if you're doing an instructional video, seems so it should at least be demonstrated, and then just mention that you don't normally do it.
Watching you pull the filter without using the drain tool is testimate to why the tool is provided. I just used the drain tool and it greatly reduces the oil spatter and mess. I work clean and there is no need to be spraying that brake cleaner all over everything. Gloves however are must.
Very straightforward and informative. Just bought a '15 LE and I cannot believe Toyota was stupid enough to use a cartridge-style filter in this day and age. If anyone is interested, Baxter Performance in Washington state sells a spin-on filter conversion kit.
This vehicle takes 4.6 quarts, not 5. This is why your dipstick at 5:27 shows an "over" reading. Please be careful people.
I put five quarts today in mine and it's exactly at the full mark. Your mileage may vary, evidently.
Better to be a little under full than overfull.
Thank you Moetoe for pointing this out in the video. I just had my 2012 Toyota Camry inspected for engine noise on startup. The noise starts when the engine is cold and it lasts for 1-2 seconds before going away. The Toyota dealer stated Toyota that the oil is too thin, almost like water. Toyota recommended going with the 5W-20 just as you've mentioned. I with you on that, I want my Toyota to last, not wear out before 200,000 miles. If I didn't want a car for longevity, I would've bought some other car brand. Thanks for the tip! :)
Yep, that would be the Noise. Toyota offers an updated seal kit to get rid of the noise on start up. It's expensive though.
@@moetoescooter5499 : I know this is an old post, I hope you still answer my question: can you please provide a link to that Toyota service bulletin about using 5W20 oil instead of 0W20?
I drive a Ford using 5W20, so it would be convenient for me to use the same oil in my wife's Camry.
i just bought a 2015 certified 2.5l camry w/ 14000 miles .. it had over 5qts of oil in it when i drained it today...refilled it w/5qts 5w20... and it was at perfect level on the dipstick....your info makes sence... thanks for this great info...
Without taking the drip plug off you miss replacing the additional smaller o-ring that comes with the filter as well. I wonder how long that will last without replacement? I assume you would develop a leak when that gasket fails. I understand it will take a few minutes more, but it makes it less messy and you can then replace the o-ring as well. As a compromise you can take off the whole thing then remove the drain plug and replace the gasket on the bench.
Really like the way you described the procedure step by step.
Thank you for making this video. I never did an oil change on a foreign car until today and this video greatly helped.
Awesome! thanks
My manual on my 2013 says that you may use 5w20 once but the next oil change MUST be 0w20. In other words the factory acts like 5w20 may hurt the motor over the long haul.
So you're concerned with not breaking the oil filter cap but you don't seem worried about damaging the threads with a screwdriver to remove the o-ring. Read the instructions with the oil filter about removing o-rings.
There is no advantage to using 5W-20 over 0W-20.
I thought that I would comment on the transmission fluid change as the question has come up a couple times in the comments and you mention it.
I had the transmission fluid changed at my local Toyota dealership.
It was listed as transmission "flush" on their computer system and cost $199.
This was what many of us know as a fluid exchange, using a machine to replace the old fluid with new as the old comes out.
There are NO added chemicals.
This is better than a "drain & fill", which they also offer.
I would never flush, I would drain and refill, look around for an honest mechanic
@@c21hustle Ditto. First and only transaxle I had flushed lost reverse within 2-3 days.
When removing the filter cup, I had better luck using a large socket that fit the hut on the oil filter tool. My filter was on o tight that 3/8' extension and ratchet didn't have the oomph.
You didn't have to jack up the car one side after another side. There is a jack point at the centre of the front frame. Also, you didn't have to create mess when removing the filter cartridge. There is a drain cap just for that purpose.
i agree about the drain cap to prevent a mess especially for diyers but i have issue where they overtorqued it and when i try to remove the entire housing turns...any suggestions on getting it loose. i haven't changed oil in this car before so what tools would i use to safely loosen the cap once the entire housing is off the engine. also my drain plug is stuck on and i can't get it to budge. i'm looking at the direction he is turning and it looks like he's turning the both clockwise to remove it???
no its counterclockwise, luckily mine was easy to remove on the first time, just a few taps on a ratcheting combo 14mm. then i dropped the washer in the oil drain container, damn had to fish it out. i reused it, pretty new looking
i was looking for a center point under the engine but didnt see it. i used the L frame rail and one jackstand on the L rail, basically like here but my jackstand has a wider mouth and this poly boot on it too i got on summit years ago, the rail fit right in mine. back tire was still touching ground
Thank you for the video, may I ask you what is the oil change interval on 2.5 liter Toyota engine? I was told by the Toyota sales agent that it is six month or 8000 km, but the internet suggests 10000 miles or one year for the synthetic oil 0W-20. Both 0w-20 - and 5w-20- are IDENTICAL once the car is up to temperature. The difference is how thin those oils are when the car is cold. Neither the or the flow enough in the cold to properly lubricate your engine. However, the 0w-20 is thinner and does LESS damage at start up than the oil. Also how do you recycle used oil?
Can anyone vouch for what he says about the oil? I can’t find any record of the service bulletin he’s talking about
Just used this video to impress my girlfriend's dad, thanks lmao
Glad I could help you win some brownie points!
I know the oil filter cap wrench for the 2.5 liter engine is the same for all Toyota's from 2.0 liters or larger...
Thank you for your video! Do you have a link to buy the oil filter, the tool to remove the filter and the drain plug gasket?
The oil filters i have seen come with this plastic tubing, dont really know what it is all i know is that it’s used to drain the oil out of the filter or something like that. Comes w a gasket. Is that necessary to use? Thanks for the video, great job.
OK: How about using 5w30 full synthetic during summer months where the coolest over night will be 50º F absolute minimum? BY the way Brian may need to recheck his facts about oil viscosity and robustness under high ambient temps. By the way again, I always fill the filter/housings as full as possible with fresh oil ( especially easy on totally vertical filters such as this one.) Also: cold winter months will have 0W20 for cold starts etc.
A full synthetic 0w30 would be even better. Cool video thx.
A 0-30 would have been the wrong weight oil for this engine
You really know how to explain things GREAT VIDEO
20 grade oil is 20 grade oil. The first number refers to cold weather. It ain't gonna make any difference whatsoever.
Its the weight of the oil. Some say its thicker some look at it as more Viscosity. Either way theres a difference.
the difference is the viscosity when its cold. the 0W is going to be less viscous than the 5W. Once they reach operating temperature, they will be the same viscosity. If youre in a cold climate you will DECREASE engine wear using 0W. If you live in florida, youre better off with 5W.
i bought new filter and it came with big and little o ring and a round plastic thing with threads on one end, i did not see little o ring or plastic thing in your video, and i could not find a place for plastic thing so i didn't put it in, your video is incomplete
I live up in Canada and last winter I was starting my Camry in temperatures as low as -37F. with no block heater. That is when your using your 0W 20 to its maximum capabilities, its get flowing through the engine much faster in extreme conditions. Most places in the U.S.A never see that type of cold, so running a 5w 20 wouldn't hert an engine.
True dat!
Thank you for the information on the service bulletin. Is there any way I can find that information and take a look for myself? Nice video thank you. I'm also trying to figure out how to change out my transmission fluid with a transmission without a dipstick. Do you have a video for that? If not, do you have any advice. Thanks for your time!
Most transmissions are running world standard fluid and "they say" you don't have to change the fluid for the life of the trans. If you are to change the fluid you will have to pump the fluid into the fill hole. It is self-leveling once it starts coming back out of the fill hole it is full. Even if you drain the fluid from the plug there should still be several quarts still in the internals of the trans and converter. The only way to truly get all the old fluid out is to flush the trans with a machine. we normally use about 12-14 quarts to preform the flush. If you take your car into a Toyota dealer to have this flush you may be told that world standard fluid doesn't have to be changed. Just be insistent and be prepared to spend some money it's not cheap. On a side note I tried to find the article about the oil for someone else that posted and could not find it. However, I read that article in 2011. I can't wait to see what the 2018 0w-18 brings lol. Toyota is not the company it once was.
Ack, I agree it is not the same company. I used to be able to do a tranny drain and fill in an hour and now there is a special procedure for these WS 6-speeds without a dipstick. You're definitely right though, under the hood everything is easy to get to and work on. I really like that in a car. I'm just bothered by this trans fluid thing because I've heard on the forums that Toyota defines "lifetime" as 120k miles. Thanks for the timely response.
@@moetoescooter5499 Agreed. I serviced my truck transmission every 35k miles. Took a ton of fluid, and I used BG products. Quite expensive, but it's at 140k miles and never had an issue. Beats the Hell out of walking.
@@moetoescooter5499
There is no self leveling fill hole in the automatic transmissions. If you fill to that level you will be way overfull.
@@moetoescooter5499 Using a flush machine to blast metal particulate-filled dirty transmission fluid through all the tiny capillaries of a transmission is bad and could lead to internal damage and premature wear. Remember what happens to the clear ocean water on the shallow shore of a beach when you start waving your hand rapidly above the sand on the bottom. That is essentially what is happening to all the settled metal particles at the bottom of your transmission when you blast the fluid during a machine flush. Sure, those "jiffy" shops love these things because they can hook up a tube and push a button and get it done in one shot and charge you a fortune. It's not their transmission so they don't really care about any long term damage these machines may create.
There is a lot of info (and controversy) about the dangers of machine flushing transmissions online. The better way is to perform 3 separate drain & fill sessions since, as you mentioned, each gravity-based fluid drain still leaves a good amount in the tranny. But each drain, spaced around 500 miles of driving apart, makes the fluid cleaner and cleaner. It's just a 30-45 min weekend DIY job each time start to finish, so its not really a big deal to do it right without causing unintended damage by plugging up tiny internal ports and coating the gears with metal particulate.
Good video. Good audio. Thanks for the help.
Thank you. This was a very educating and interesting video!
How many miles does the trip meter go off on 3 or 5 thousand or jus when the oils feels bad??????
4500 miles from last reset maint reqd light flashes at startup
I just had to use an impact wrench to get my oil filter off. Yes I know that's bad. It was a last resort...This was my first time. I just bought this car two months ago and the previous owner always had it done at a Valvoline lube shop. Anyway...at 2:36 you show that there is a tab. Is this tab holding the cap from unscrewing like safety wire? Are we supposed to wedge this out of the way? Is this why I had such problems?
Stuck Oil Filter
Everyone who has this system should be prepared for a worse case scenario.
Make sure you have the following...
1. The proper Motivx* oil filter cap wrench. Item #MX2320 for all Toyota/Lexus/Scion engines 2.0 liters and larger using a cartridge style oil filter or item #MX2321 for all engines smaller than 2.0 liters using a cartridge style filter.
2. A 27 mm ½ inch drive socket
3. A ½ drive breaker bar (18 inches or longer in length.
If an oil filter cap seems difficult to remove, only the above items should be used (or equivalent tools). Do not simply use a ⅜ inch drive ratchet or ratchet with extension as these will sometimes result in breakage of the oil filter cap wrench or the oil filter cap.
Always make sure the teeth on the wrench are properly engaged with the tabs on the oil filter cap.
To prevent reoccurrence of the problem
•Make sure new o-rings are properly lubricated before installing.
•Use a torque wrench to install the oil filter cap to no more than 18 ft.lbs (25 N•m). Oil filter drainplug = 10 ft.lbs. (13 N•m)
* If you think the Motivx tools are too expensive at least consider the following... Do not buy an oil filter cap wrench that is made from cast aluminum. Only buy one that is forged. Do not buy one that is strictly a cap wrench that does not have teeth. Do not buy one that claims to fit all models or even all four cylinders. The 2.0 and 2.5 liter four cylinder engines use the same oil filter cap wrenches as the six and eight cylinder engines use. Only the 1.8 and 1.3 liter engines use a different size oil filter cap and oil filter cap wrench. If the oil filter for your four cylinder vehicle comes with one o-ring instead of two then your vehicle takes the same wrench as a Prius or Corolla. If your oil filter comes with two o-rings & a drain tool then your oil filter cap takes the same wrench as the six and eight cylinder engines. Some companies claim their wrench works for all four cylinders but on the 2.5 liter engines that smaller wrench does not engage the teeth on the wrench to the tabs on the oil filter cap. It may work if your oil filter cap is not stuck but it is a poor choice. They are mislead.
How severely does the 0W-20 oil affect the longevity of the engine ?
It doesn't. 0w-20 by definition is better oil. The reason is because it heats up to and holds a more stable temperature than weighted oil. Do your own research. This guy also says to use 5 quarts when this car only takes 4.6. Would not take any of the advice in this video.
Being a Toyota mechanic/tech what's your opinion on the vavoline maxlife synthetic atf vs Toyota WS, it's been my experience that the WS is stating to breakdown at roughly 35k miles I'm not sure if it's the high heat environment in my state or what, but like you I'm looking to keep my Camry for a long long time, I don't think it's worth doing drain and refills every 30k with WS when I can do 60k intervals with something else.. thoughts??
Whats WS?
@@alphaomega8373 world standard
Thank you so much!! Exactly what I was looking for..
Great video.Have you done a transmission drain and fill.Online it says to get the factory Toyota ws transmission fluid out because its not synthetic and to put synthetic in it.What would you recommend.
I have seen bad things from not using the recommended fluid. Mostly shudder shifts Most transmissions are running world standard fluid and "they say" you don't have to change the fluid for the life of the trans. If you are to change the fluid you will have to pump the fluid into the fill hole. It is self-leveling once it starts coming back out of the fill hole it is full. But, even if you drain the fluid from the plug there should still be several quarts still in the internals of the trans and converter. The only way to truly get all the old fluid out is to flush the trans with a machine. We normally use about 12-14 quarts to preform the flush. If you take your car into a Toyota dealer to have this flush you may be told that world standard fluid doesn't have to be changed. Just be insistent and be prepared to spend some money it's not cheap.
@//Project Grassroots Where can I find this video?
Check out Faye Hadley's video on changing ATF in Toyotas without a dipstick
What about 5w 30 oil is that okay.
Help! I Just took my 2012 camry to a "non toyoto mechanic" for an oil change. The mechanic broke the plastic filter housing and had to replace it, said the tabs broke. Was told it was replaced with a metal housing. What should I do?
The threads are thin. If both parts are made of metal you can damage both parts. I suggest you stay with the plastic and handle it carefully. If you cross thread it or break it, it is better to replace the filter housing that have to replace the crankcase.
Great video, does the oil plug gasket come with the oil filter? If not what size is the gasket?
No, the drain plug washer does not come with the filter. But you can normally buy a bag of 10 from a Toyota dealer for about $12.00.
ok ok ok...i'm getting confused and i can't get my drain plug off. it looks to me like he's going cw when removing the bolt. i realize he is at front of car and bolt is facing back of car. Is there an easy way for me to be sure i'm pulling ratchet in right direction from front of car? i'm facing the bottom of the car on the floor and i'm pulling the 14mm crescent wrench toward the passenger side. that is correct isn't it??? i'm on the garage floor laying under the car with not much room. lol and the filter housing came loose when i try to remove the cap so they overtorqued it like what he's saying is common and did himself. I prefer to do it as designed so it isn't so messy...since i'm under here. any suggestions on safely removing it once i have the housing off and what tools to use???
Clockwise - tightens. Counter-clockwise looses. Or "righty-tighty, lefty-loosy'.
Thank you for this video.
Good video
How I can changed the válvula PCV in Toyota Camry se 2012?
Where do you get the special filter tool?...and the washers for the oil plug?
Randy Vertrees Walmart sells the filter tool. However, I'm not sure about the washer.
any toyota dealer would sell the washers, or call your dealer to get the exact size and order off amazon
I live in a very hot climate, is it better to use 5w-30 ?
I always recommend staying in the viscosity range. However, you can try it if your car has high mileage. Although, If it starts taping when driving change back to a thinner oil immediately.
so my question is running 5w 20 in
Phoenix az will stop the dry start up on my car? and have better mileage?
20 grade is 20 grade. The first number only applies to very cold temps. It isnt going to make a bit of difference. Especially in Arizona.
@@nickv4073 Its the weight of the oil. Some say its thicker some look at it as more Viscosity. Either way theres a difference.
Mpg?
Hello, wondering where you got the tool to remove the oil filter from?
This is where I got mine from...
www.amazon.com/dp/B00XTAGHU0/ref=psdc_15708821_t1_B00Y5JWW1W
You overfilled it. It only holds 4.6 quarts and that's with a long drain. 0W20 is a very robust oil. It won't harm the engine. 5W20 will cause more wear during cold starts in the winter, which is when most engine wear occurs. I think you were misinformed.
....... I work at a Toyota Dealer. I'm Not misinformed. Also, if you noticed I didn't start the motor. That oil which is over the full dot on the dipstick will go down when the filter fills with oil. It actually calls for 5.2 quarts per Toyota but, 2/10 of a quart is no big deal. I have to ask. Why are you watching a video on how to change oil if you know so much about it? Anyway, my info is sound thanks for watching.
5.2ish is only for an engine rebuild and 4.6ish is for an oil change. You will have oil leaks before long. I'd use 0W30 before using 5W20 if you like to push the engine hard. The most important is to use a good synthetic and don't overfill.
The w stands for it's winter viscosity the( - 20 )stands for it's range of viscosity at different temperatures. So 0 to 20 is it's viscosity range and 5W- 20 is staying within that viscosity range. 0W-30 would be going beyond it's viscosity range and that could really affect the VVTI. I don't think it would hurt the motor but, you would have a noticeable loss of power. I don't know where you get your info but it's wrong. When it comes to viscosity you don't want to make the liquid so thick the ports or the pump can't handle it. BTW rebuilds have to do with engine bore and nothing to do with lubrication or how much oil is needed to fill it.
Don't know who are are asking.... But For me, yesterday I could not spell TECh..Nic...iAn now, I R 1... lol However, I guess that is an adequate question seeing how every ASE Test I have taken says technician A. says dumb shit. Technician B. says Dumber shit. Who is Right A.B. C. both or D neither. So it appears that as an industry we know that some techs are retarded. But, I do not hold a current master certification if that's what your asking. Although, I can tell you that you should always educate yourself. Companies tell the public what they want them to know. Same with techs. The article that I referenced came straight from the engineer's testing the new ( at the time ) federally mandated 0 - 20. I doubt I would be able to find that article now.
OW-20 is best as per owner manual. Indeed, best for cold start and high speed.
Moetoe Scooter can I use 5w20 for 2019 Highlander V6 engine?
No need to use 5W20 in the newer vehicles. The tolerances in newer engines seals and ports are designed for thinner oils. Run the recommended until you hit over 100k then you can switch to the 5w20.
@@moetoescooter5499
I just bought a 2017 Camry 2.5L. Do you recommend 0w20 or 5w20? Thank you for your time and this information Sir.
Snug it up indeed, i.e., don't over tighten. I think the manual says 25 Newton meters, which ain't much. I bought my Camry used, and that mother wouldn't come off with 200 ft. lbs. of torque. Finally just decided to take it off with an air chisel. That "plastic" is some tough sh#t, I don't think you'll be breaking it with a 3/8 ratchet wrench. Speaking of the plastic, I replaced it with an aluminum canister, which would be a similar material as the block. I think the plastic threads or the dissimilar materials may be the problem with these canisters "sticking," not the over tightening so much.
Actually aluminum to aluminum causes more galling than aluminum to plastic, which is why I stuck with plastic when I replaced mine. As long as you change your own oil and only torque to specs, you should not have a problem.
@@stevensevek6151 You're right -- problems happen when you allow others to do simple maintenance that you could do yourself. As an example, whenever I get new tires at Discount Tire Direct, they pump 'em up to 40-45 psi, even when I ask them ahead of time not to do that. Specs say 32 psi for my car. They do that every time, and I let air out of every tire before leaving the lot. And I have never had anyone else change my oil, ever. Before we were married, my wife had her oil drain plug fall out on the highway after using a quick-change place that hired some guys with a room-temperature IQ. When you do it yourself it gets done right.
Actually the torque spec is printed right on the oil filter cap...
Love this video, and reference it every time I change my daughter's oil in her 2013 Camry. But I will say, I use the access drain and the the plastic drain "straw" that comes with every Toyota oil filter made for this car every time. It prevents the huge oil flood from dumping out everywhere as we see at 2:56. When you drain the oil first the way it was designed, that doesn't happen. It all goes out the plastic straw drain fitting right into the pan with no mess. Then unscrewing the oil cover makes no mess. Watch the first 1 minute of this video to see how it is use: ruclips.net/video/nBBjo71k22s/видео.html
Fram...... No.
Awesome, now I can get all the gay men that drive Camrys, my dream will soon come to fruition.
Really? Damn never heard this before.
Why didn't you change the smaller gasket ring?
The reason is because it's a mess and you would be more likely to cause an oil leak so most people leave that alone.
@@hunterfoster1714
That's just plain not true.
@@stevensevek6151 I just don't do it, its a mess either way.
@@hunterfoster1714
It's not a mess if it's done right. (Attach a short hose to it or use a bottle to collect the oil.)
Besides, if you're doing an instructional video, seems so it should at least be demonstrated, and then just mention that you don't normally do it.
@@stevensevek6151 I was shown by a Toyota Tech and this is what he does. Why replace something that is pointless?