Automatic Transmission Filter Conversion On An Land Rover LR3
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, take you step-by-step in the removal and installation of the Transmission Filter Conversion Kit on a 2005-2009 LR3.
Using kit # ATFCK ( www.roverparts... ), this is an easy change filter conversion kit for all Rovers using ZF 6HP Automatic Transmission.
This includes the LR3, LR4, Range Rover Sport and Range Rover L322 models.
Installing the original factory filter change kit is a very lengthy process.
The original sump and filter are normally one piece and fitting involves jacking the engine up and unbolting the mounts, plus, the removal of the exhaust.
This new kit has a two-part filter and pan design, which makes installation much easier.
Doug will also address replacement of the Automatic Transmission Valve Body Sleeve (TZV500010G) which has a tendency to leak.
It is recommended that this sleeve be replaced while you have the pan down.
This service is recommended to be performed every 50,000 to 70,000 miles to ensure optimum performance.
Please refer any questions or comments to 1-800-533-2210, or go to www.roverparts...
Parts List:
Kit # ATFCK
www.roverparts...
Automatic Transmission Valve Body Sleeve:
www.roverparts...
#atlanticbritish #transmission #landrover #rangerover
I completed this job about a month ago. I work on hotrods and can confirm this job is not for the faint of heart. A few points that may help the rest of the LR4 community.
1. Sawing the filter in half was near impossible. Mine ended up cracking in half and yours will likely too
2. Look up the refill procedure, it involves brining the fluid up to a specific temp. Failure to do so may result in hard shifts.
3. If I could do it over again I would have simply drained and replaced the fluid first. At 120k miles my fluid was in relatively good shape, and so was the filter.
4. The gasket that comes with this kit is terrible. I immediately had leaks. If the gasket wasn't so poor then the sealant used in the video would not be necessary.
5. I had a hard 1 to 2 shift after this job. Using my GAP IID tool, I reset the "transmission adaptives", which solved the problem
6. I still have a slightly hard shift from 1 to 2, I believe I may need to replace the solenoids and seals in the transmission. My slightly dirty fluid may have been masking this problem.
7. Thinking about it now, if I could do it all again, I would have simply topped off the fluid off in the transmission before beginning any of this work.
8. I started this job because of a clunk in the trans when approaching stoplights. I read the mechatronic sleeve helps with that issue. The clunk is now gone. However, I can't confirm if it was the new fluid, the sleeve, or correct amount of fluid that solved this.
Shout out to all the nut cases keeping these awesome trucks alive. The last decent Land Rover to come off the line.
Dawg you ain’t lying I’m out here cussing.
I learned a few new "descriptive" words doing this service...and now I get to do some of it again as the new pan leaks like the Titanic. This job sucks.
I don't have a gap tool but if I just disconnect the battery and touch the cables for a while like a classic reset will that help the Adaptive learning thing happen with the transmission also?? I'm at 160k and my lr3 is new to me but I don't know what the previous owner has done. It's in really good shape though. Transmission feels pretty smooth but if I do a really Full Throttle downshift at high speeds there's a very slightly too firm of downshift feeling. It's not slipping but it's just a little too firm at the downshift then it is at any other point of shifting with lower RPMs and less throttle. I like the idea of maintaining things though. Do you think I should just try a drain and fill and if it looks really black then do the filter if it doesn't just do the refill procedure with new fluid?
Thank you for great video and the kit! I am a retired Rover tech and never enjoyed removing the pan.
Pro tip: use an oscillating tool to cut a square out of the bottom of the pan where the filter neck is. Then you can just stick a flathead in frum underneath and snap the plastic of the filter neck. And just like that, boom! You save yourself from having to mess around with a sawzall blade. I tried the sawzall blade for about 1 minute and realized that sucked. This method was WAY betterr
Looks like the original pan design caused a pandemic!
Sorry... Couldn't resist!!
Great video though! Extremely informative, and am looking forward to this upgrade! Keep up the great work guys!!
Excellent video and kit. Not having to remove the the cross member/cat/motormount is worth the additional $25 in cost, and obviously future transmission oil changes will be simpler as well. This job, with this kit from Atlantic British, took my father-in-law and I about 5 hours, including a lunch break to go grab a suction pump. We had it on ramps with the air suspension full up and felt there was plenty of room to work. Some tips that I think they misses in this video:
1) Put the fill plug back in after the initial cold-fill of the first 2-3 liters. It doesn't have to be tight, just secure enough to stay put and not allow any surge of trans oil when you start up.
2) You 100% need to wear gloves. A long sleeve shirt wouldnt hurt either. The second part of the fluid fill is done with the vehicle running, and you are going to touch a hot catalytic converter at some point; either during the fill or the portion after when putting the heat shield bracket on.
3)If you buy this kit from Atlantic British, it does come with that little extra sleeve part he talks about changing while doing the job. Ours got set aside and we couldn't find it so we thought it wasn't included and only found it after cleaning up.
4) Even with the transfer case jacked up, the clearance is quite minimal to work in to remove the transmission oil pan screws. Get ready for some hand cramps.
Your video is very well put together. Thanks.
Just did this today on a friends lift. Took a solid 8 hours including cutting down my torx bits. This was definitely not fun and I hope I never have to do it again, but definitely couldn’t have done it without this video and this conversion. Thanks a ton!
Short torx bits are key! A short torx bit for a drill mated onto a coupler for a 1/4 inch drive ratchet did the trick for me.. If I ever had to do this again I would cut a flange bolt head and weld on a little nubbin of a torx 40 and drive it with a ratcheting wrench (so the flange head sat in and on top of the wrench without falling through. This would be a clutch tool atlantic british.. Hopefully you're listening.
I was thinking similar... I'm doing mine soon and will fabricate a torx in bolt head set up for sure
You just saved my bacon with this video and kit. God bless you. Ill be ordering the kit very soon.
Just put in my order... let's see if I can follow Doug's lead on this one. Should be fun. Though it'll likely take me twice as long and my father and brother always have a big freakin laugh when they know I'm using dad's garage! I'm totally "not" mechanically inclined, according to my father and brother~ both truck driver mechanic types. Which is why this nerd is gonna have a blast getting this shit done and saving some money in the process.
Very helpful, thanks Doug. My 2005 had t27 torx bolts, not t30. Also, several of them did strip out. I found Irwin bolt-grip extractors came in really handy for twisting out the stripped out bolts. One bolt head snapped off but I was able to get it out with a pair of mole/vice grips. The whole thing was quite a job but with the help of this video and parts from Atlantic British, I think I've about got it done. Will fill back up with oil tomorrow.
Oh yes, also I didn't have any need to unbolt the transmission mount and jack up the transmission. I could work with it in place.
Roger Howard did you use the Irwin bolt extractors or screw extractors.
To get to those T30 bolts at the back and the front of the pan I use one of those little 3 inch long ratcheting bit drivers that you can get from Harbor freight for a couple bucks that use a 1/4” hex bit. you can ratchet those little buggers pretty easy and you won’t over torque.
I see a lot of videos covering this install that do not mention the large filler plug on the metal pan. From what I understand (and it's talked about on a lot of forums), is that the fill level changes with this metal pan, so you use the large fill plug on the pan to set the height and not the standard side filling hole. Comments?
For what's its worth I do enjoy the way you present the topics
I had no issues removing the pan using VIM tools half cut torx set. Their short T40 paired with a snap on long flex head quarter inch ratchet did fine basically. I also used some vim long reach ball end torx quarter drive to spin them out after breaking free by hand. Hope that helps someone.
A couple of pointers after doing this on my 06 LR3...
The electrical sleeve must be inserted so that the very visible inner tab is at 6 o'clock position. Otherwise the white locking
mechanism won't engage. Best way to be sure is to mark it with a paint pen on the outside.
The heat shield bracket bolts are a nightmare to get back in. Best way is to install them loose without the bracket, and cut a groove in each bracket mounting hole to create a "hook" effect. Then just hook it on the loose bolts and tighten, works great.
One other thing are the rubber seals above the valve body. They are easily accessible by removing 7-8 torx screws and dropping the
valve body. The kit is not expensive and those seals are wear items, causing poor hydraulic flow and sluggish shifting. Kind of a
no brainer while you're in there. The kit has 5 pieces and instructions....Super simple to do.
One more thing; Those paper pan gaskets really suck. If you don't want to double the torque on the pan bolts I'd recommend a
rubber or silicone gasket along with a sealer that is more substantial than the spray cement this guy recommends.
NEVER could have done this job without this video! Now...how about some torque specs other than, 'good and tight', especially for the x-fer case mount? Found one for the pan but coming up empty for the mount. Thanks for the vid!!
I just did it today and it wasn’t that bad! Thanks for posting this video
Hey how is it going. That original design was terrible, plastic pan with an integrated filter, It was ZF's fault for that one. That is awesome you guys came up with a metal pan and a separate filter, that is originally what ZF should have done for their zf 6hp26 models in the first place from the factory. Its not just land Rovers, its Jaguars, bmws, and wikipedia can tell all the other cars and trucks that had this transmission model. By the way I own a 2006 LR3 SE 4.0L V6 SOHC with this transmission, I like the look of these vehicles don't get me wrong. Another by the way is I'm learning automotive stuff right now at college, keep up the good work and stay safe at this time.
Awesome video, thank you!!
Really enjoy ur videos, was wondering do we have the equivalent to Atlantic British in London?
Sorry. We are north american only...
This is the best video of changing the pan and filter when its orignal plastic crap. I got one question - Do I need to unbolt only this one bracket you point at 6:04 to lift one inch the transfer box?
Amazon sells a mini ratchet torx bit set ( kaifnt k403 13.99 ) is what I used no need to remove cross bar or jack up transfer case worse great for tight areas
Works, not worse. I hate spell checker that change your words
just ordered a kit for my 2011 LR4. i hope this fixes my problem as vehicle is 140k without transmission fluid change.
did it work steve?
Yes and no.
Turns out my valve body needs to be replaced.
But atleast it is easier now. This kit is awesome.
@@lutronc4412 nice so I can order this and follow the video for the most part. Don't have 700 bucks for a trans fluid change
@@ghettotroof i bought the kit from these guys.
Was ~390 plus bought a syringe fluid filler. Took me 2 hours.
@@ghettotroof valve body is ~900$
I suggest waiting to do change and valve body at same time. Im going to buy a valve body from revmax but you have to take out to identify version first so you won’t have a drivable vehicle for a day or two.
I have heard that there is a need to do a double flush of fluid as the torque converter will hold another 6 ltrs of oil and only a double flush will provide enough new oil in the system.
Not according to my service manual:
All vehicles 11. Add 3.5 to 4 litres of the correct transmission fluid, or until a small thread of fluid runs from the filler/level hole. 12. Check and top-up the transmission fluid level. For additional information, refer to: Transmission Fluid Level Check (307-01A Automatic Transmission/Transaxle - TDV6 2.7L Diesel, General Procedures).
I just got done doing this today, due to that tube for the plug leaking. I'm a mechanic, so it wasn't too bad. I was able to fit in a little over 6 QTS total. The kit comes with 7 qts. MY kit didn't come with 10mm headed bolts. It came with 8mm socket bolts. instead of using my suction gun, I used a squeeze bulb so I could just keep pumping one qt after another. We started to get a bang from 1st into 2nd on a mild incline. Indicating it was low on fluid. Well now it shifts perfect again and can hardly tell when it shifts. I also has a constant surging of the RPM when steady on the gas. Was really annoying. That is also gone now, most likely due to being low on fluid. If some hack wasn't in there before me and stripped out the T27 factory bolt heads, I would have gotten done faster. Took me in my yard, driven up on blocks in off road height for space, about 4 hrs. 1hr of using vice grips on the bolt heads to break them loose, and the others hitting with a chisel on the side of the heads to break them loose. If you do what Doug does in the video, its dead on what he shows.
This might be a dumb question but can you extract the ATF through the fill port and change it that way?
Is it normal to get transmission faults while going through the fill procedure?
I'm about to do this today. Regarding the valve sleeve part - I have no dash lights but after an ODB2 scan there's a TCM signal fault. Hoping that a new sleeve and reconnecting the cables will resolve this!
Did it work? I am having a P2703 TCM fault code and I have completed all except for the valve sleeve part? Im curious what Pcode you had?
@@christianstevens9105 The code I had was U0402 - invalid signal from TCM (from the IPC (instrument cluster control module) which now seems to have gone. I guess I hoped that removing the connection to fit the new sleeve and reseat would help which it seems to have done. I'll try and do a new scan and check the fault is still gone as I haven't for a while
Can some one clarify what is the sealant spray used exactly? I think he said Permaterx High Tech Sealant Sellador ?
Hi , great video .. ty for sharing this info . I have a 2010 LR4 ,,with 165000 kms on the odometer .. and there is no record of the transmission oil and filter being changed . The rover has a minor kick back when slowing down fron second to first gear .. would a transmission oil change with the filter fix this issue ? When I scan it I get a code for the transmission control module as well .. any suggestion or direction would be great . Ty
Winner winner chicken dinner! Like it !!!
Are you locking the air suspension when lifting up the car?Thanks.
In all the videos I see for jobs like this, the heat shield cover and the steel frame that secures it to the tranny, have already been removed. The problem I have is that one of the 8mm bolts for the steel frame is right behind the shifter cable where the cable is held to the tranny. It looks like it should be easy to move the cable off to the side but I cant find any videos of anyone actually doing it. It looks like a black plastic/metal tube with grips on the side which suggests you turn it my hand or with grips. Any suggests on how to get this off with out breaking it? Dont want to have to replace my entire shifter cable.
This might be a dumb question but can you extract the ATF through the fill port and change it that way?
My white tab in the transmission bay is stuck extended. What do I do?
AWWWWEEEESSSSOMMMMEEEE
I read in the lr3 manual that the transmission oil is used for life time no need to change it , is that true or not.
Thanks a lot its so helpful.
ziad altuwijri if you want your transmission to fail don’t change the oil....... ok no oil manufacturer guarantees their oil for ever at best 20 to 25 thousand kilometres so the car manufacturers know that around 100,000 kilometres just over of course the transportation will fail but by then and you are out of warranty.....
My Land Rover Discovery 2000 was turned on on the M&S board and the shift lever on the D flash ... the problem you don't want to walk in reverse ...Will it be the transmission position sensor?
Could I get a P2703 Code resulting from a bad valve body sleeve??? I ordered one from Atlantic British but I haven't taken out my pan yet. Thanks!
Why hasn’t someone designed a dipstick and fill tube conversion for these as well?! Being under a running vehicle trying to fill and replace that plug is DANGEROUS. No way to properly do it without getting burned at least once. Dumbest design ever.
Land Rover seems to not really care about they're customers..but thank God these guys do.We have had this job done twice
Hi dear my lr3 has 129000km have no problem with transmission and a use on road weekend only so the Land Rover said that is no change but what you think I must change now or not yet please ! Thanks and congratulation for all your videos!!
book said to change @ 70,000 miles regardless also if driving in extreme heat I always do it every 50,000 hope this helps
Here is another one for you guys . So I finish putting the sleeve. After we finish putting everything together now the car won't start it seems it's stuck on drive so the vehicle won't turn on . P0705 . The other one was for the pcm . So I now have 2 codes one for the PCM and the other for the TCM . Anyone have any idea why this might be . We also had to remove the Valve body we thought that the lever to hold the sleeve it in place was stuck..
Worked great BUT years later I'm trying to replace the filter/gasket again...I can't get this metal pan OFF. LOL. I used the Permatex spray so I don't know why it's so stuck. I've tried WD-40, Permatex gasket remover, Jasco with no luck. I've broken some plastic pry/wedge tools. I don't want to pry the metal pan off with a metal tool/blade & damage the aluminum. Any suggestions? Thanks!
This might be a dumb question but can you extract the ATF through the fill port and change it that way?
Can you just pour the oil through the dip stick
tip, dont run your ac on day of install, as otherwise have to deal with water dripping down on you and parts
I have worked on my autos since my first vehicle decades ago. I am a mechanical engineer to boot. I used the harbor freight short ratchet set for $3 and it helped, thanks to Bettin Huge below. But I can honestly say taking a hacksaw into a blind location between the pan and the $10k transmission is the dumbest thing I have ever seen recommended. Further it was a contortionists nightmare. I would never do this job again on my own, leave it to a good tech.
I simply slammed the pan forward and the stem snapped off easily. I did get a bunch of fluid in my face though.
After the LR3 is brought up to temperature, is the 2nd fill being done as it idles or with the truck off? Is sounds like it running in the video.
With the second fill you want to run the transmission through the gears and refill transmission fluid until a small trickle of fluid comes out. This whole process should be done before the engine reaches normal operating temp, as the fluid will expand and could give you false levels.
Do you also sell the transmission filter without the pan for future filter changes? This appears to really cut back on labor time. How long would you estimate this kit change takes?
It took me about 4 hours today including set-up/cleanup time. pretty straightforward process, but prep the job with a short torx, trust me.
Hey Ryan how has the kit worked for you..thinking of purchasing mine
@@ryanemery3139 oh sure it took you 4 hours, keep dreaming and lying to feel accomplished
In the video you state that it is for 4.4 liter LR3 and RR sport. Does this also aply to the 4.2 supercharged RR sport?
yes, for north american spec 2006 - 2013
How many outlets for 12V does a 2008 LR3 have ? Just wondering because no one ever mentions it.
not sure.
Hi I av a p0500 vss sensor how can u access it pls 06 lr3 4.4
I´m a bit worried because in the video the filter looks totally loose inside after instalation, not tigh enough it is right?
No, it's tight. It's still on the vehicle and has been for a couple years.
@@atlanticbritishrp Then after the sump bottom is put in place, It serves to fix the filter tigh in place right?
God information om emnet. Fint....
Replaced my pan since it was leaking, followed this tutorial but now I have a fault, P0929 for Gear Shift Lock Solenoid Circuit Range/Performance. Car won't shift out of park, this goes away when car is warmed up and trans oil is hot. not sure what to do.
I am thinking to do the change and wonder if yours has been fixed yet.
Hello there. I just had change the sump and the oil accordance with the specs and a I had an issue, there is a variation of the rpm 80km/h and it comes up and down, 1700 to 2000 revs in a Constant road. What could it be? Many thanks
Definitely a 8 hour job on the ground,
I have a question I just got the tra s kit and I am having trouble sliding the retainer for the sleeve is there anyone that can help out please
I just did it. Total pain in the butt to get just right. Just keep trying. It might be discouraging, but consider taking the sleeve out and starting again. You'll be both relieved and angry when you finally get it right and the stupid clip pops up into the sleeve.
The clip should slide up without much force. If it doesn't, the sleeve isn't in all the way. I put a 24mm socket into the sleeve and then used a breaker bar, braced against the crossmember to press against the socket, and it eventually went in. Took a huge amount of force, which is hard to generate on your back.
Hi how many liters need this change?
7 liters for north american spec vehicles. We sell the pan and filter kit with the OE ZF fluid with this kit: www.roverparts.com/Parts/ATFCKWFL
Hi!
How many quarts/liters are required to do it? Thanks!
Around 3-4L, but it's better to prepare more, you can fresh the fluid left in torque converter in this way.
just did mine, took 5.5 quarts. 3 with the motor off, and another 2.5 running at temp.
their kit comes with 6 quarts, cant imagine you'll need more than that
How long should this job take a mechanic? Two hours?
My Lr320 took a whole day worked upon by the mechanic.. Has 122000 kilometers on it. Oil started leaking out. So had to Replace it.
The transmission and the engine needs to be disconnected from the chassis and pushed up a bit to allow the new filter to get in. This is something I wouldn't recommend as a DIY.
It's such a pain. Absolutely ridiculous. An unimaginable amount of nuts and bolts to loosen and tighten,will drive you nuts.
T27 on the 2005
Getting one of the front pan bolts out is a BITCH!!!
I did this job and I regret buying the whole car 🙃
Don’t buy it, Do not make the same mistake I did on this 8 hour job. This pan leaks terribly.
How did you resolve the problem? Just finished the job, and I have a small leak I have yet to identify.
@@reubenpearson I assume you have a ZF transmission. You have to take pan back off clean it and put gasket maker only for transmission applications and let it dry overnight before you fill it.
Just did the job and it works fine. I used a liquid gasket maker sealant on the gasket, both sides, not a drop has leaked.
crikey what a crap design from LR, my L322 is a piece of piss in comparison.