Did you try this on a hard plastic headlight? I went through the whole rigmarole with the for sanding pads and finished off with PlastX. I used too much on the cleaning pad so perhaps it acted as a lubricant instead of as an abrasive. Perhaps a nickel amount will allow the pad to push the micro granules right into the polycarbonate surface.
I think I see what happened. I prefer the sanding and rubbing compound then polishing compound method best. I have a video on it if you want a link. I do headlights quite good.
@@disturbingkreationz There was no rubbing compounds in the kit, just the PlastX "sealing"/polishing liquid. What rubbing compound did you use? Would Sofia bicarbonate slightly dampened do the trick?
RUclips is so nuts not showing me my comments. I have to search for them. No I never used that. I use turtle wax rubbing compound and polishing compound but I am sure any will work.
Tried this on my boat windows and it just didn't work. The plastic windows are cleaner but not opaque. The plastic windows are not new, but they're not more the five years old either. I've tried other products too with no better results. I think it's a matter of buffing off old plastic residue which is beyond what can reasonably be done with your hands.
@@jamesbaldwin7676 yes exactly. Great comment. You need to buff them or light sand them first like a car headlight. I have a tutorial video on this channel of how to do that.
hi I have the PlastX product and I recently used it to restore my headlights and put a coating of meguiars coating product. Its seems that the one headlight I didnt do the job long enough to clear it but added the coating once I was done. Can I still repeat the restore process with the plastX product to clean it right again?
You should be able to. If the meguires is a top coating you will have to work that off. I suggest 800 grit wet sandpaper then 1500 grit. Then try the plastic x again.
You are obviously overestimating the power of your hand buffing. It takes a great deal more effort than you think. You would get fabulous results if you used a drill motor or an actual DA buffer.
@@blue2824 thanks for the comment. Maybe you did not watch the video. How can you use power tools on a flimsy thin plastic window? Hmmm? I mean I only been doing this 20 years. lol
Iv just used this product on my vans plastic headlight and with the help of my battery drill buffer they came up like new 👍👍
Thanks for the comment. This is what we love to hear. Subscribe and look at my review playlist. I test out 3-4 other brands like this.
I am so/so on this product and would only use it if nothing was left.
Sorry about your window.
Will keep this in mind.
Good Conrad.
Did you try this on a hard plastic headlight? I went through the whole rigmarole with the for sanding pads and finished off with PlastX. I used too much on the cleaning pad so perhaps it acted as a lubricant instead of as an abrasive. Perhaps a nickel amount will allow the pad to push the micro granules right into the polycarbonate surface.
I think I see what happened. I prefer the sanding and rubbing compound then polishing compound method best. I have a video on it if you want a link. I do headlights quite good.
@@disturbingkreationz There was no rubbing compounds in the kit, just the PlastX "sealing"/polishing liquid. What rubbing compound did you use? Would Sofia bicarbonate slightly dampened do the trick?
were no
sodium bicarbonate
Spelling checkers -- Grrrrrr!
RUclips is so nuts not showing me my comments. I have to search for them. No I never used that. I use turtle wax rubbing compound and polishing compound but I am sure any will work.
I've used it on my car dash clock after the armor all made the plastic cloudy. It works but it takes elbow grease.
Cool. Why was the final result? What do you think? Recommend or nah?
@@disturbingkreationz I would say so. It really depends on the usage.
Thanks. I reviewed a few more items in my reviews playlist.
Its an ok product depending what you use it on.
Tried this on my boat windows and it just didn't work. The plastic windows are cleaner but not opaque. The plastic windows are not new, but they're not more the five years old either.
I've tried other products too with no better results. I think it's a matter of buffing off old plastic residue which is beyond what can reasonably be done with your hands.
@@jamesbaldwin7676 yes exactly. Great comment. You need to buff them or light sand them first like a car headlight. I have a tutorial video on this channel of how to do that.
hi I have the PlastX product and I recently used it to restore my headlights and put a coating of meguiars coating product. Its seems that the one headlight I didnt do the job long enough to clear it but added the coating once I was done. Can I still repeat the restore process with the plastX product to clean it right again?
You should be able to. If the meguires is a top coating you will have to work that off. I suggest 800 grit wet sandpaper then 1500 grit. Then try the plastic x again.
@@disturbingkreationz ok thanks for the tip.
I see this product a lot of shelves but never see people use it. Thanks
You are obviously overestimating the power of your hand buffing. It takes a great deal more effort than you think. You would get fabulous results if you used a drill motor or an actual DA buffer.
@@blue2824 thanks for the comment. Maybe you did not watch the video. How can you use power tools on a flimsy thin plastic window? Hmmm? I mean I only been doing this 20 years. lol
Not interested after seeing this. thanks.
Do the inside to bro
@@nomadbarka7407 I did. Was it not in the video?
Hmmmmmmmm
Boooooooooooooo.