Amazing detail. Just finishing the design phase of my house with a kitchen with exactly the same issue. Finishing cabinets on a vaulted ceiling on top of the uppers never easy or cheap.. you just solved it. Thanks.. love your videos..
5:40 - That vertical shear-support 2x10 is a nice bonus for this design, where it's effectively hidden inside the roof eave and relatively easy to install. My engineer called for 2x12 blocking BETWEEN every truss on my house; my heels are slightly taller than this and there are massive wind loads (in hurricane zone) starting at the gable face with lots of intra-truss shear bracing throughout the webbing , not just at the heels. In any case. the original framers tried to get away with just tacking 1/2" OSB where you have 2x10. Engineer was not thrilled. Soon thereafter, I became the framer and had the pleasure of measuring/cutting/installing all of the 2x12 blocking segments myself, during COVID when SYP 2x12's costed as much as a compact car. So that detail hits home for me. Worth it though for insulation value, ventability (over top of shear blocks) and strength.
Energy heels are great, maybe a little taller than 10”, with baffle it takes insulation to 8 1/2”. Just got some at 14. Thanks for a the detailed videos Steve, very educational
Raised heals are a must on all our trusses. We add insulated foam as the baffles to keep the hot/cold from transfering immediately into the insulation. Thermal camera shows more heat and cold gets up higher before pushing on insulation. These guys and Risinger have been huge influence on our builds and "middle ground" between entry and belt and suspenders. These details are low fruit for energy.
Thanks for the detail. Vid suggestion: do as much of your redline work before hand as possible to get the wall & overall truss outlines that you can explain rather than draw-explain. Concision whenever possible
How Steve is marking up the drawing while talking, is much better as a training / teachimg method, than doing everything before. When going through and explaining technical drawings, I always gravitate to live mark-ups, a whiteboard, or an e-whiteboard, even with experienced engineers. It helps them "see" what I am talking about, and helps me keep track of what I have covered.
I really like the rim band on the outside of the truss vertical web over blocking between trusses, seems to provide similar truss rolling resistance with much less labor (and a much cleaner finish). Is the band notched for the truss / rafter tails?
So are cabinets only going on thar wall? Are there gable walls with cabinets? If there were, how would you address that if you're not crazy about space above cabinets? Do you frame out a drop there?
I know you do the siga ceiling detail continuous with the exterior zip but do you use a smart vapor retarder on the interior walls or is it not needed?
Amazing detail. Just finishing the design phase of my house with a kitchen with exactly the same issue. Finishing cabinets on a vaulted ceiling on top of the uppers never easy or cheap.. you just solved it. Thanks.. love your videos..
Love this detail, particularly the indirect LED lighting at the bottom of the vaulted section of the ceiling.
5:40 - That vertical shear-support 2x10 is a nice bonus for this design, where it's effectively hidden inside the roof eave and relatively easy to install. My engineer called for 2x12 blocking BETWEEN every truss on my house; my heels are slightly taller than this and there are massive wind loads (in hurricane zone) starting at the gable face with lots of intra-truss shear bracing throughout the webbing , not just at the heels. In any case. the original framers tried to get away with just tacking 1/2" OSB where you have 2x10. Engineer was not thrilled. Soon thereafter, I became the framer and had the pleasure of measuring/cutting/installing all of the 2x12 blocking segments myself, during COVID when SYP 2x12's costed as much as a compact car. So that detail hits home for me. Worth it though for insulation value, ventability (over top of shear blocks) and strength.
Energy heels are great, maybe a little taller than 10”, with baffle it takes insulation to 8 1/2”. Just got some at 14. Thanks for a the detailed videos Steve, very educational
Yeah I agree 10” is too short especially for 24” of cellulose
Will consider cabinet placement and ceiling design with my upcoming project in SE CO.
I haven’t heard of them called energy heels before but they do make sense.
Raised heals are a must on all our trusses. We add insulated foam as the baffles to keep the hot/cold from transfering immediately into the insulation. Thermal camera shows more heat and cold gets up higher before pushing on insulation.
These guys and Risinger have been huge influence on our builds and "middle ground" between entry and belt and suspenders. These details are low fruit for energy.
Thanks for the detail.
Vid suggestion: do as much of your redline work before hand as possible to get the wall & overall truss outlines that you can explain rather than draw-explain. Concision whenever possible
How Steve is marking up the drawing while talking, is much better as a training / teachimg method, than doing everything before.
When going through and explaining technical drawings, I always gravitate to live mark-ups, a whiteboard, or an e-whiteboard, even with experienced engineers. It helps them "see" what I am talking about, and helps me keep track of what I have covered.
I really like the rim band on the outside of the truss vertical web over blocking between trusses, seems to provide similar truss rolling resistance with much less labor (and a much cleaner finish). Is the band notched for the truss / rafter tails?
What about HVAC in these? Why not go higher on ceiling? Does the cellulous go in the vaulted area also?
So are cabinets only going on thar wall? Are there gable walls with cabinets? If there were, how would you address that if you're not crazy about space above cabinets? Do you frame out a drop there?
I know you do the siga ceiling detail continuous with the exterior zip but do you use a smart vapor retarder on the interior walls or is it not needed?
Go watch this guy's insulation scrubbing video.
Please, for the love of all that is right and Holy in the world, Don't record when you have a runny nose.
I'll take runny-nose Steve over no Steve at all.
Yeah. A decongestant or even a good rinse before recording isn't rocket science.