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Formulas to Draft a Shift Pattern from Your Own Measurements - featuring *Math* and pickled eggs :)
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- Опубликовано: 8 май 2020
- Some of the methods I've come up with concerning how to draft a shift pattern from your own measurements, and how different shapes will effect the resulting shift. I will be making a followup tutorial which will go into more detail about the 18th century shift specifically.
Other things I've thought of:
-Don't stress it, shifts are pretty forgiving patterns!
-If your mockup sleeve is too tight at the shoulder, try using a larger gusset.
-Make sure the total circumference of your hem is wide enough for your leg movement. You can formulate this by holding your tape measure in a loop around your legs where you want the hem to sit, and decide the minimum circumference you need to be comfortable. Subtract your front and back panel edge measurements, and whatever is left can be divided by the number of gussets.
Regency Shift Measurements: / 367536019593087937
How to sew 18th century stays: • 1789 Strapless Stitche...
Other things you might find interesting:
How linen is spun: • Spinning Flax Fibre In...
Burnley & Trowbridge Linen: www.burnleyand...
Late 18th Century Linen Shift: www.metmuseum....
1840's Linen Chemise: www.metmuseum....
1870's Cotton Chemise: www.metmuseum....
Find me elsewhere:
Instagram - @mariahpattie
Pinterest - mariahpattie
Spoonflower shop - www.spoonflowe...
Myfabricdesigns shop - www.myfabricde...
Music:
“Swing with You” by Mica Emory, epidemicsound.com
"Menuet" by Traditional, epidemicsound.com
"Faultless" by Moins le Quartet, epidemicsound.com
I loved that you used “A round thing”.
Sewing has been around far longer than fancy gadgets.
I still haven't gotten around to getting one of those fancy french curves 😆
When Outlander costumes are mentioned in sewing videos, I feel seen and attacked at the same time:-)
I love that nobody thinks the early Outlander costumes are perfectly historically accurate, but we all just kind of give them a free pass because they are so iconic.
@@MariahPattie they look... Logically accurate, if it's a real term lol. Comfy, practical to a degree. So their inaccuracies don't stick out so bad
Girl, same
I watched Claire walk around in her underthings with my nose pressed against the tv and tried to spott gussets and gores. Did not see anything😅
SAME
I've had the fabric for my shift sitting on my table for about two weeks while I fuss over the pattern... 'measure twice, cut once', more like 'measure six billion times and dither'. this was so helpful, very clear and concise! i've made some adjustments to my pattern (self-drafted, hence the nerves) and now I might actually be able to pick up my scissors. fingers crossed!
Make a mockup if you're nervous! you don't even have to do the whole shift, just the top portion :)
And here I thought I was the only person in this boat! I have never been so intimated by a simple set of rectangles as when trying to draft my own shift. Cheers to scissors - and committing to the cut!
Fleur, you are officially my hero of the week. "Measure six billion times and differ..." Yes. That is how I too sew things. I saw a video a while back where shoppers compared the measurement markings of a handful of tape measures of the same brand and they were ALL A BIT DIFFERENT. I now believe it is not my fault that my sleeves sometimes change length in mid-assembly, and my curtains gently overshoot the window sill by 1/8 inch. Sewists of varying measures, sizes and frustrations levels, we must unite and place blame where it belongs -- and measure six billion times before cutting that fashion fabric. We have solved why the mockup was invented.
I’m in the dithering stage now lol. I keep thinking “okay, I’ll plan just a little bit more until I’m certain, and then I’ll cut it all out and start sewing.” It’s been weeeeks of this D:
But maybe I’ll watch this video one more time and then cut it all out and start sewing?
This was really helpful, I loved how you talked about the reason behind choosing one measurement over another because too often people just say "do this and that" and you don't know why you're doing it and so you don't know why it doesn't come out right. Here I understood the reasons behind the choice in hem or shoulder measurement really well and that helps a lot understanding why my first attempt was… not bad but definitively weird.
Wow. A sewing RUclipsr who actually reads her comments and makes videos answering! So helpful!!
This is a wonderful guide to making your own chemise! My wife didnt have the time to get a store-bought pattern to make one, so this is a big help! Thanks so much.
Me working on a fantasy novel and researching about the wardrobe:
- Hmmm... this color could help to portrait the character's hidden goals.
- Interesting, makes sense they used linen in those climates.
Girlfriend comes into room mixing some cocoa, sees my capsule wardrobe:
- Okeeeey...
* Turns around and gently closes the door *
I will explain everything to her, someday...
How is your novel going?
@@bekkil9024 Hope to publish it on Amazon by the beginning of the next year
It's called "Destiny & Liberty - The Great War" it's a medieval fantasy world about two totally different human factions that desire to impose their view upon the rest of humanity, one by personal desire, meritocracy and freedom of faith (liberty), and the other by heritage, science and economic thrive (destiny)
Thanks for asking!
I know this video is a couple years old now, but I just found it today, and let me tell you, you just made my life so much easier Mariah, thank you so much!
I desperately need to sew myself some new nightgowns (mine are currently disintegrating...I have chronic illness, so spend a lot of time in bed), but after having recently moved house I can't get at any of my fancy pattern making materials to draft a more vintage style pattern, which was my original plan. Rectangles to the rescue!!! I've always loved the look of a basic white shift/nightgown anyway, to be honest they haven't changed much since the beginning of time, you could still get big white cotton nighties in the 1950s, my favorite era.
But although the whole rectangle thing is essentially simple, most of the shift/nightgown making videos I've watched either are from a paper pattern, or only general directions are given for going off your measurements, I haven't seen one that just laid out simply how to do it from scratch, like you just did. I guess that's why you saw all the questions about the pattern. :)
Anyway, thanks so much, and I look forward to some fresh summer nighties! I will be using cotton muslin, which is affordable for me, and I really like and I find it washes really well too. Cheers!! :)
I'm coming to the slow realization that I goofed with my first shift (followed an antique pattern but messed something up with the sleeves and also made it out of a SHEET which is a mistake, way to heavy), so I'm considering making another and this will be invaluable. Thank you so much!
I hear you, I made my first shift out of quilter's cotton, because I thought that was the only kind of cotton in existence 😂
ah, drat, you've possibly saved me some amount of frustration. I've just been rewatching this trying to figure out if my new old sheet would be too heavy for a shift. I guess I should figure out something else. I was thinking, though, if I didn't gather it too much, maybe it could work?
I know it's an old comment but wanted to note for new readers like me that there are very light linen and hemp sheet sets on the market these days and I'm thrilled with how quickly they dry and flutter in the breeze of the window fan, especially the hemp. Fully intend to make a shift or two from hemp.
My linen is in the post, and I’m hoping it’s going to be the right weight... ... I almost never buy things online, but this lockdown requires special measures!
My current shift I sewed sat on the edge of a fountain, in the middle of town.
The lockdown means that this would be impossible at this time, but in any case the fountain was taken out many, many years ago, because as a university town, a bottle of dish soap was poured in several times a week, and it made a huge foam party that slowly dropped through the town!
I really miss it, too! (...the fountain I mean, the foam not so much!)
That's sad 😢 "this is why we can't have nice things"
As a math challenged person this was actually really helpful! Thank you for sharing!
I love how simple this pattern is, I cannot even count how many I have made for my family. Great work!
Thank you! 😊
This is THE BEST shift-sewing explanation video I've seen. Thank you so much for sharing!
I'm so glad you decided to do this video! I have been wanting to draft my own pattern for a long time and could never find understandable directions. This helped sooo much.
Wow! This video is really practical and useful. Thank you for the Closed Captions transcript. You covered a lot of material very quickly, so it was very helpful to be able to read while listening and watching. I am looking forward to watching the followup tutorial about sewing an 18th Century Shift. I want to add that I am also enjoying some of your other sewing videos. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and skills.
Lol I'm just watching this at .75 speed on repeat until I fully understand what I'm meant to do XD I thrifted a BEAUTIFUL 100% white linen bedsheet the other day as well as a cotton bedsheet for the mockup, and I'm so excited to try my hand at shiftmaking! I'm making it right at knee length, so I can get away with using it for historical or modern use. Great video, thanks for the tutorial!
This was so wonderfully explained. Thank you so much! I gained +2 in confidence for patterning a shift ;p
good and making a mockup will give you an additional +5 in confidence 😉
I’ve sewn one shift so far and it was a kind of reconstruction (meaning I assumed the given measurements would work and only adjusted the sleeve length) and have since tried to find a tutorial for how to *actually* make a shift pattern. Thank you for explaining in such a clear and simple way!
I have to say, I absolutely love the way you explained the math and pattern drafting and all of your included advice. It feels so well explained and straightforward, it just makes perfect sense to me and I am so thankful. I love this video so much, thank you so much for making it and sharing your wisdom.
Thank you so much for this. I've been doing a lot of sewing since the pandemic started, and I've recently become obsessed with the idea of making an 18th century costume. This video was so very helpful. Thank you.
Very useful advice, thanks! A few shifts or chemises are first on my to-do list!
I particularly apprecieate seeing the piece of fabric at the end with all the pattern pieces on it. Helps me a lot.
I literally was planning to start on my shift in a few days, thanks for guidance!
I'm glad it was helpful!
This came at just the right time for me as I'm trying to make a shift to go under a modern (wool) dress, so thank you. Also YES to pickled eggs!
I'm glad it was helpful!
(I have quail, so I'm learning how to pickle so that I don't get overrun by eggs this year 😂)
@@MariahPattie That's awesome! How many have you got? I've always wanted to have my own birds... chickens that is. Built a chicken coop once but through a turn of events was never able to actually populate it. My bf recently pickled eggs for me - I'm curious to see how they turned out.
@@casual_cupcake Last year I hatched 39, though right now I'm down to 17, and I want to hatch more as soon as I get another hutch built (bird collecting is addicting, even though I already get too many eggs lol). I raised chickens last year, and I miss them so much, but my neighborhood came down on me hard.
@@MariahPattie Wow, you've got a proper bird farm going :) I'm very jealous. I was very lucky that I had a large garden and no neighbours, which is unheard of where I am in the UK now (I was previously in New Zealand). Sorry to hear about the loss of your chickens, but good luck with your current birdies!
@@MariahPattie I`m sorry your neighborhood came down on you over some beautiful chickens. If it's because you had a rooster, which can get rather noisy, there is a solution. It's called a no crow collar. They work by not letting the roster draw enough air in to produce a crow, no pain or discomfort involved. Roosters do a LOT more than just make babies, they're very important in keeping the social order in flocks as well as providing protection. I'd love to see a video on your quail, even if it's just watching them do their thing! Watching animals is very calming.
I like how you give an explanation behind some of the math. Cause a lot of the other videos, whom I love very dearly, but they sometimes don't always fully explain how to get the numbers and measurements. Mentioning that "oh, you'd need to make adjustments if your shoulders are wider than your hips or vice versa" isn't the same as showing us the MATH.
And of course, all the wonderful possibilities one can do with ~sleeves~
also, I keep replaying "now we are down to everyone's favourite part: the sleeves" and am giggling.
that is now how I'm pronouncing sleeves, thank you.
Thanks. I'll have to watch this again when I can pay more attention, meaning not trying to pin multiple fabric layers that keep moving.
I've just been wondering how to go about making myself a shift and this is awesome... I am going to make myself a medieval inspired gown that I can use to go to renaissance faires when I can but that I can just use. This gives me the base I need. Particularly what you mentioned about the underarm gusset... that was troubling me!
Just as a fabric note, I have an antique chemise from 1850 and they used a medium weight linen. It has pleats at the bust and back.
Okay... after watching 15 chemise/shift tutorials....and taking and writing measurements multiple ways and times....watched your tutorial three times....took 2 pages of notes....and finally "drafted" a "pattern" with measurements on a piece of paper....I think I'm ready to dig in : ) Have never done a mockup in my life.... but think this is the time to start. Think I will use some of my gorgeous "manta" cotton from Mexico that I have hoarded for about 35 years for my mockup.... have gorgeous linen for the real deals. The linen petticoat and apron with first time stroked gathers are done....onward and upward to the chemise. Thanks for all your videos and tutorials! " : )
Your content is so practical. Love it.
Excellent!!! All one needs to get started! My fabric linen came today! You show all the options! Simply excellent!!!
Hi Susanne
Shift tutorial, yes please! I really don't know to sew those squares under the arms and the sides without bulkiness.
Omgoodness why haven't I seen your ch before. Thank you so much I really needed to know how to pattern this and now it seems so easy. Can't wait to make one.
I still find it crazy that youtube suggested this channel through a conlanging video, but Oh My Gosh, historical sewing, too!! I thought I was the only person in the world interested in both these very niche topics...
I love your historical sewing videos. Such lovely quality. Please keep them up!
Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed!
I love how you reinforced the shoulders.
Thank you for detailing the * Math *!!! Subscribed :)
Thank you! This is the part I've been wanting to know so I can also make one for my daughter
Yay! I always look forward to your videos. There are a lot of videos on most subjects out there but your videos are always informative and very, very helpful. I very much look forward to the sewing a shift video.
Very informative! I will definitely come back to this video when I need to make a shift in future!
Thanks, I'm glad it was helpful! 😄
Thank you so much for recognizing patterning was the best discussion to be had!
Ok, 1am is not a good time to watch this video. I will return tomorrow (today?) when I can understand all this valuable information...
Another awesome video! I really enjoy listening to your perspective which combines historical sewing and modern practicality for history bounding. Your attention to detail always brings up points I haven't thought about. I'm looking forward to your 18th century shift video. FYI that 18th century button thing for shift sleeves uses sleeve buttons. Check out Wm. Booth Draper online. He sells reproduction sleeve buttons and has a link to the portrait of a woman wearing some. If you don't want to purchase from him you can at least see how to make some yourself using shank buttons and a bit of wire to connect them. Just a warning, his website is a little weird to navigate. If you click on 'add sleeve buttons to cart' it will take you to another page where you can browse his different styles by clicking on them, which will also give you better pictures.
Thank you! That's great information! I thought they were just tied with a cord, but I couldn't figure out why they were described as "button holes" 🤦♀️
This was so thorough! I love it! I'm currently making a shift with the cutest pink flower fabric.
Very nice video, I will come back to it! It is just going forward so fast It's hard to stop it to have time to read texts you've added, and to actually make proper notice of stills.
"the sleevles" you are so cute! this was very helpful for my 19th century inspired nightgown I'm making, thank you!!
I love your videos! They're so smart and practical ❤️
Thank you 😄
Really practical advice about the side gores not coming up too high especially if you're wearing a corset
I know a lot of the historical ones did, but I can't stand the feeling
Please post your shift video I literally cannot wait I’m so excited
This is very helpful, thank you.
Thank you so much it helped me to understand better
Mariah thank you for this video I have used it multiple times now.
Newbie here, who gets a little confused by what, exactly, the different arm pattern thingies are. I mean, I realize that it's probably a suggestion of different sleeve lengths? But with at the same time differing sleeve widths, I get really uncertain. Just found your videos and am thoroughly enjoying them!
Ok. Rewatching made it a lot clearer. As hindsight is wont to do.
Ah, thank you! Bless your soul, mind and body for this! Also, super excited about the upcoming 18th century shift proper tutorial video (you said you would, so you can't take it back now :)).
ooo love her harry potter quilt in that background
That was extremely helpful. Thank you.
Good! Thanks for letting me know 😄
Pirate reference! Aye matey!
I love the way you’ve tried to make it CLEAR that there are many other ways to make shifts. (Kind of makes me laugh to think of all the comments you’re trying to avoid!)
I feel I would be able to make a shift given the info you provided here. I’d just need to make a lot of screen shots, which is fine!
Just wondering, do you use yours strictly as costume wear, or do you also use them as night gowns? I’d be tempted to make one to sleep in! (Maybe a colored linen is less transparent?)
I've slept in them before. They work fine, but I try to save costuming pieces and keep them nice. If I try sleeping in one regularly, I'll make one specifically for that :)
I'm so jealous you got some fabric from Hancocks! I miss that store so much ! they had the best and most fabulous linen fabrics!
Some day I will have to tell the tale of working at Hancocks during a store liquidation 😳
@@MariahPattie oh my gosh you worked for Handcocks ?! I did too, but got let go because I had to work another job during a manditory store meeting 😑. When I came back from living in Az I wanted to show my husband the store but didn't know they had gone under until I googled if there were any more stores. I would like to hear your story! Did you happen to work the one in North Kansas City ?
No, it wasn't Kansas City. Hancocks was my first job at 16, and my store closed down the summer/fall after I graduated high school. 😢 There was so much stashing. The employee perk was that we could basically get any fabric we wanted for $2 a yard, plus first dibs on fixtures. We all had piles of notions under the cutting tables, waiting for the prices to drop. Bittersweet times.
I only asked because I worked at a store near Gladstone/ N KCMO and you look very much like someone I worked with. Sounds like a crazy time. It's great to be getting a good deal but not at the exspense of your job as well 😑
excellent synopsis
Exactly the info I was looking for. Thanks.
So many shift variants. I usually just lay on the fabric and mark out shapes with chalk as the maths do my head in.
I am very late to this video but I just want to say that this video was so helpful!
That was awesome!!
Great video! What kind of thread do you recommend when sewing a lightweight linen shift? Historically I suppose hand sewers used linen thread but I don’t know where to find this. Cotton quilting thread? Polyester sounds like blasphemy. I look forward to your next video.
I got mine at Burnley and Trowbridge, but you also need beeswax for linen thread. If you want to go all-out with the hand stitching, I highly recommend this. There is something magical and unexpected to hand stitching with linen thread. The wax makes it slightly tacky and moldable, and when it stitches through linen you can really see the threads cementing together in a way that's different from any other thread I've used.
For the Regency shift, I did semi-not-really-historical stitching. All of the inside seams I stitched on machine with regular poly thread, and I used running stitches for the exposed stitching, either with the same thread or a cotton, I can't remember.
Honestly it depends on your goals. If you just want a functional piece, there's no need to get hung up on the thread. But if you're in it for the learning experience, well there's not much difference between using poly and cotton, but linen is something else.
Wow you are just genius and amazing! Love your vdos! Very resourceful and helpful. Btw, Can you make us a vdo about historical accessories and how to make them!?.?.... ex. Tall gloves, reticules, and scarf-like thing around Regency era! Thank youuu
Thank you! That might be cool, running through the different accessories of different time periods. How to make gloves could also be useful to people, though I don't think I'd do a reticule tutorial unless it was a specific design.
This has been so very helpful, thank you
Love the blouse
Very helpful. Thank you for making this!
I need to figure out how to make a supportive shift. I keep looking for a way that fits the way my brain works. I’ll grab an old sheet & start trying, soon. As soon as I recover some energy!
I'm not good with numbers, hence the degree in English. Add in two glasses of wine and I'm looking at a dead language. But this was so informative and very easy to follow
Good! Thanks for letting me know, that's what I hoped!
Thank you!!
Thank you so much, this has helped so much
me: an absolute beginnger who has just bought a sewing machine watching her tutorials like i understand what the hell i am doing yet, haha! i love watching your vids for inspiration on what i hope to eventually make. do you have any tips for complete beginners Mariah, or any one in the comments on what are good starting projects for historical sewing? i fear if i start a shift project it may be too much and discourage me if i fail :( xx
Shifts are easy and so are aprons
Thank you so much this video is wonderful !
This is super awesome, thanks!
Thank you so much I love you
🎉 Thank you
Do you have a type of pattern for Laura Ingalls Wilder's chemises from her book "These Happy Golden Years?" I sounds like her chemises did not have sleeves. Her dresses had slight fulness at the top of the shoulders and slim down to be tight fitting on most of her arm. I have listen to this part at least 2 dozen times to try and visualize it.
This was great, thanks!
Thank you for this tutorial. I'm curious, at 4:15ish, you refer to the triangle pieces as gussets. Aren't they actually godets? In which godets and gussets are two different things and serve different purposes. I am just curious your thoughts. :)
Is your video sped up? I am having trouble noting the details. Thank you for your video.
I'm very obsessed with the shift shown on your mannequin in the background. If this is one you made yourself, is there any possibility of a video on it? or would you be able to point me in the direction of similar patterning?
I love the maybe, cotton/linen white blouse, with pintucks that you wear here! Was this a make/buy item? It seems like a very versatile vintage/historical blouse design for historybounding.
Do you have a tutorial for the shift behind you with gathering under the bust?
in my experience the diagonal of the arm gussets should be no bigger than 1/3 of your total armscy
as someone who's never made a shift before im so confused omg,,, everything is going so fast i don't even know where to actually start 😭
1 year later and im still confused lmaoo
Hi, Mariah Pattie. I have a question. Can clothes that are hand sewn be washed in a machine on gentle/delicate? Its occurred to me I'd like to learn (my mother knew how, but she was taught by her mother 100 yrs ago!) It is funny but at 70 I seem to want to reclaim some of the territory I surrendered to practicality 20 yrs ago. I am so very tired of the sameness of tees and pants. I want skirts and some lace in my life.
I've been watching you, Morgan etc for months off and on. Time to get my supplies out.
They can be machine washed, as long as the edges are finished in some way
Other than speaking too fast and going thru pictures too quickly, the information was great. I’ll have to try to slow it so I can catch the points I missed
And here I am!
This was supremely helpful, thank you so much!!! 💖💕💖
Could you please make a 1840 early Victorian modern capsule wardrobe :)
Ps. I really like your ideas
Beauty
I dont know if anyone can help. I have done 3 mock ups using my measurements and a few tweaks, BUT my shoulder seams STILL don't land on my shoulder. I want a nice full neckline (like an outlander shift), but I want my shoulders to be, yunno, on my shoulder now halfway down my arm.
Help sewing community! I'm pulling my hair with this!
I use raglan sleeves for mine and elastic in the neckline drawstrings never seem to stay where I want them lol.
Hi from the Facebook group.
Nice vifeo
hey there!
Are the extant examples of more modestly made shifts - higher necklines from these periods?
I can’t remember, but a lot just depends on how tight you gather the drawstring.
Aww, I miss Hancock's.
Thank you I shall have a go at making one . Wow you talk fast.
How do you sew the neckline?
What site do you use on your computer?