Unbelievable. I refused to stop this video and remake it. I refuse to make edited videos. I think it's important to be REAL and relatable. Plus it's entertainment haha
Very good info. For any beginners, I'd like to share what I've been doing and have been successful. I've been using filtered water from Glacier (1.00 for 5 gallons) for about 3 months now in my 29 gal planted tank with 13 fish. I change water about 25-30% once a week or every other week. No obvious changes in pH, nitrate, nitrite or ammonia increases per test strips and everyone is doing great. Oh and I don't feed with flakes, but with frozen bloodworms, it's so much cleaner. Hope this helped.
A buffer simply put is something which ties up your acids and bases and thus resists a pH change. Most tap water naturally contains buffers. Those hobbyists which use RO units to make "pure" H2O are actually removing buffers and can have quite a time trying to keep their tank stable.
Needing to age your water is very rare. If you'd like more insite look online. By aging im referring to letting the water stand in buckets overnight before adding it to the tank. This is only useful in areas where your water has alot of dissolved substances and will have a different pH after sitting a day than it did straight out of the tap
Another good video. Slowly adding new water after a water change will reduce stress on your fish if the PH is more than a couple points off. Aging water is kind of useless unless you have an extremely delicate fish.
good vid your lights also raise PH, didnt know this until someone told me. test the water before lights come on then test again before they turn off. although its not a drastic swing most fish will cope. a natural way to lower Ph us using natural peat or other filter mediums. c02 will also help keep a steady PH (only pressurized) as it wont inflactuate and it can be used to lower Ph over a min of 4 days.most fish will adapt to a water change, even if the water is alkaline.
Great video. I have found all your topics very useful. What PH are your tanks at? Is it a different level than what ccomes straight out the tap? Am I right to believe a slightly more acidic PH is better for plants. The PH out of my tap is over 7 is it worth adjusting it slightly every water change to bring it down a bit?
I hope you answer my message. I have problems and we'll start with what I have. A 29 gal tank with lid and fluorescent light, two back filters (20-30,10-15) heater and now a bubble curtain, and 2 bubble stones. Have a betta, rosboras (3 some died) and like 8 corydoras, a live plant and a plant sprouting Oh and a apple snail. Now I have put about every chemical in this tank to get nitrites down, ph down, hardness ect. Using jungle products including test strips have used tank clear amonina down
There is so much wrong with this video. Biggest being that aging water has nothing to do with pH since the only thing that will change from that is CO2 levels in tap water and CO2 pH differences don't bother fish. Aging water is about chloride concentration, and if you've got a problem with chlorides you're better off just using a sodium thiosulfate product(water conditioner) since many modern chlorides don't gas out. On top of that, you don't seem to understand what causes stress in fish since pH is a really bad indicator to use for any reason when it comes to fish tanks for a variety of reasons. No one has ever had issues with fish because of the pH in their tank, but instead issues in the tank caused "problems" with their pH.
My pH runs around 7.5 and I don't have to age my water. The entire point of this video is that you should use what you have. Don't adjust it. It's not a worth it and you'll just end up with a tank that refuses to stay balanced. Keep it simple and your tank will run like a charm!
Should my tap water pH limit my stocking options? It is in the ballpark of 8.2-8.4. I am just wondering if that adds any limitations to the plants and fish that are in my tank. As far as I understand, there just isn't a smart or economical way to change your pH. So should I let a tap water pH of 8.4 worry me? Also, aging my water has no effect.
nice video bro it bugges me how much noobs are concerned with their ph the important question is what is your nitrate reading i like how you add the aging water rant im a discus keeper who has to age his water and that is and important aspect
I just got a 29 gallon tank that has been cycling for about two weeks. I tested my PH for the first time the other day and its at 8. I only have 3 fish, a male betta and two blue gouramis the gouramis can take a ph of 8.8 and the betta has a max of 8(according to the internet). Per your video its good to have stable PH but, I'm worried about my Betta. Should I consider trying to lower the PH? Also I should note that I have a lot of live plants in the tank.
What is your thought on using softner water? Our whole town is softened water and have been told by some to use half tap & half RO. I have done it both ways and havent noticed alot of difference with my fish but I think plants dont like the softened water. My ph from tap is around 7.5 & I never mess with trying to change it.
Around 6:30 in the video you say a point, like 6 to 7 for pH change in a day. I've heard a lot less then that of a change. Like going from 7.0 to 6.8 or 7.2, depending which way you might move. Going from a pH of 7.0 to 6.0 is a drastic change - 7.0 is 10 times more alkaline then 6.0. Definitely not as big of a difference between 8.0 and 6.0 (which is 100 times difference).
Hey I'm hoping you can help me, just to give you some background I have a 55 gallon freshwater tropical community tank set up approx. 2 wks ago now consisting of 1 full sized angel, 3 mollies, 1 tiger barb, 1 green barb, 5 tetras, 2 clown loaches, 1 upside down catfish, 2 cory catfish, 1 other catfish forgot name, 1 silver dollar, 2 sword tails (m and f) 3 fire barbs, 1 red tail shark, 1 roseline shark, 2 boesemani rainbow fish, 2 dwarf guaramies, 1 regular guaramie (all except the angel are still pretty small, we plan to move them all to our 125 gallon tank within the next 6 months) anyways during start up we used the Aqua Safe Plus water conditioner, were advised to add a product called Special Blend as the jump start bacteria for the tank, bought Active Flora gravel for its bacterial properties and mixed it with regular rinsed gravel, we were then advised to add approx. 15 feeder goldfish to begin the fish cycle 24hrs after treating the water and then to add a product called "Nite-Out" to help reduce nitrites and ammonia. After about 3 separate water testing's at our local Petco, they said we were ready to add the fish I mentioned above and remove the feeder goldfish (which are now in their own tank). Now to the point this morning I woke up to one of my sharks that I did not list was spinning around the tank dying, we tried to help him but he ended up dying, We decided to get the water checked at a diff shop where they used the testing kits rather than strips and they said our other levels were fine but our ph was too high (7.6) and then they did what I believe is called a "high range" ph test and that came back high as well. We were given that ph up / ph down kit and went home and added the 110 drops of the ph down to the tank....later on tonight another one of my unmentioned sharks did the same thing and died, so we were given a product called "Acid Buffer" from another shop that only deals with fish and told to throw out the other product bc they said it didn't work. My fiancé added both products in the same night because we were afraid we would wake up to more dead fish.. I know this was a long post but what I am looking for is some guidance so I can have a healthy and successful tank and I feel like as someone new to the hobby I am being given too many different and somewhat conflicting directions and advice to get this right. I would really appreciate some helpful insight from someone who is experienced, hope to hear back soon, thanks! (PS: we were also told to add a product called Stress relief anytime we added new fish and that's what we did, also wondering if that's something that needed to be used...the special blend, nite out and stress relief came in a package together)
Not sure what ended up happening to you, but it sounds like you guys added way too many fish for only a 2 week cycled tank. Even though it reads ok, doesn't mean you can just add all your stocking list at once. It will cause a huge spike in your water quality and that is what probably started taking out fish. Hope it eventually stablized and you didn't lose too many more fish. I usually only had 6-9 fish at at time depending on the size of fish and tank.
My 29 gallon tank has a Ph of 7.5, possibly higher since my test kit doesn't read anything higher. However it'd been running no more then 2months. I do weekly water changes with gravel siphoning. Could it be that my Tank needs aging? The inhabitants show no sign of stress currently.
I know this isn't a pH question, but I have a 10 gallon with plants that need medium lighting. Right now I have the Marineland hidden LED light, I dose daily with CO2 Booster and a splash of Leaf zone. where can I get your clamp lamps (that are strong enough that they won't fall in) and what light bulb do you suggest? Thank you so much
No. Guppies are hardy fish so just make sure you do a good slow acclimation and they should be fine. If you have a ph test, go ahead and test your water and see where you are at. Usually, as long as it is within +/- 1.0 ph they will be fine.
The pH coming from my tap runs naturally high, around 8.0 to 8.4. Is this an okay level for tropical fish such as angels, gouramis, etc? If not, how would you recommend changing the pH? Awesome videos btw
Hey, I've been reading all sorts of opinions on the subject of ph swings and co2. Currently my ph reads 7.6 ish just before my lights and co2 come on and 6.8 just before they both go off. Now I've read opinions that vary from ph swings due to co2 aren't a big deal to no ph swing above .2 is good. I currently do not have fish in the tank, but I am hoping to get some in there soon. Basically as soon as I can solve this question. Now you say that a ph swing of 1 is not a big deal...even daily???
I don't know if you'll answer question but I'm going to post it here and hope you answer. I had an issue with ramshorn snails and the calcium dissolving into the water and it reaching high levels. I was told this is what caused my ph to change from 6.5 to 8.2-8.5 in one month's time. Does this elevated ph put me at a higher risk from developing infections such as ich? Because I suddenly developed ich and all my dish are dead. Thanks if you actually read this.
I would suggest mixing in a decent flake food and or spiralina/smashed peas/wafer etc. They need plant based food and not just protein. Not saying its impossible but for happier/longer living fish..mix it up.
Hey I have a 20g tank. Im wondering if I have to age my water if my ph from the tap is 7.8 and my tank is at 8.2 my dH is 10 and kh 120 ppm . I use an aqeon water changer right from the tap . Aging the water is alot of work and if my ph difference is minor then I won't do it. Thanks
+Ryan k I know this is 2 years old but info for others too....if your pH from tap is 7.8 and you "age water" it will rise a little. It will not get lower. Reason for this is right from tap it has Co2. Co2 lowers pH depending on kH but as it ages and gases off the pH will rise.
+élvio sousa Its definitely both. Increasing the hydrogen ion concentration [H+] lowers pH (more acidic) and increasing the hydroxide concentration [OH-] increases pH (more basic).
So first off, stop putting chemicals in your tank. You should never do that. They just cause more problems and essentially cover up the real issue. Ok, so you don't need to change ph or hardness. Fish can adapt to whatever your water parameters are naturally if you acclimate them well. By trying to change it, the levels fluctuate putting stress on the fish. If you have ammonia and nitrites there shouldn't be many fish in the tank. In fact you should ideally perform a fishless cycle. Peace
great videos, please check out my videos, i need some input on my aquariums. its been like a year that i started with fish keeping but i still consider myself a newbie. so yea please check em out any advise would be appreciated
Unbelievable. I refused to stop this video and remake it. I refuse to make edited videos. I think it's important to be REAL and relatable. Plus it's entertainment haha
Very good info. For any beginners, I'd like to share what I've been doing and have been successful. I've been using filtered water from Glacier (1.00 for 5 gallons) for about 3 months now in my 29 gal planted tank with 13 fish. I change water about 25-30% once a week or every other week. No obvious changes in pH, nitrate, nitrite or ammonia increases per test strips and everyone is doing great. Oh and I don't feed with flakes, but with frozen bloodworms, it's so much cleaner. Hope this helped.
A buffer simply put is something which ties up your acids and bases and thus resists a pH change. Most tap water naturally contains buffers. Those hobbyists which use RO units to make "pure" H2O are actually removing buffers and can have quite a time trying to keep their tank stable.
Needing to age your water is very rare. If you'd like more insite look online. By aging im referring to letting the water stand in buckets overnight before adding it to the tank. This is only useful in areas where your water has alot of dissolved substances and will have a different pH after sitting a day than it did straight out of the tap
Your tank is impressively clean!
You should see my new one! in fact go watch my latest video!
Another good video. Slowly adding new water after a water change will reduce stress on your fish if the PH is more than a couple points off. Aging water is kind of useless unless you have an extremely delicate fish.
You should get an Oscar... It would be very interesting to see your views on keeping them
good vid your lights also raise PH, didnt know this until someone told me. test the water before lights come on then test again before they turn off. although its not a drastic swing most fish will cope. a natural way to lower Ph us using natural peat or other filter mediums. c02 will also help keep a steady PH (only pressurized) as it wont inflactuate and it can be used to lower Ph over a min of 4 days.most fish will adapt to a water change, even if the water is alkaline.
your entertaining! thanks for all the info!
Great commonsense well done
Great video. I have found all your topics very useful. What PH are your tanks at? Is it a different level than what ccomes straight out the tap? Am I right to believe a slightly more acidic PH is better for plants. The PH out of my tap is over 7 is it worth adjusting it slightly every water change to bring it down a bit?
Good info. Something I need to know.
I hope you answer my message. I have problems and we'll start with what I have. A 29 gal tank with lid and fluorescent light, two back filters (20-30,10-15) heater and now a bubble curtain, and 2 bubble stones. Have a betta, rosboras (3 some died) and like 8 corydoras, a live plant and a plant sprouting Oh and a apple snail. Now I have put about every chemical in this tank to get nitrites down, ph down, hardness ect. Using jungle products including test strips have used tank clear amonina down
There is so much wrong with this video. Biggest being that aging water has nothing to do with pH since the only thing that will change from that is CO2 levels in tap water and CO2 pH differences don't bother fish. Aging water is about chloride concentration, and if you've got a problem with chlorides you're better off just using a sodium thiosulfate product(water conditioner) since many modern chlorides don't gas out. On top of that, you don't seem to understand what causes stress in fish since pH is a really bad indicator to use for any reason when it comes to fish tanks for a variety of reasons. No one has ever had issues with fish because of the pH in their tank, but instead issues in the tank caused "problems" with their pH.
My pH runs around 7.5 and I don't have to age my water. The entire point of this video is that you should use what you have. Don't adjust it. It's not a worth it and you'll just end up with a tank that refuses to stay balanced. Keep it simple and your tank will run like a charm!
Can you do a video on green hair algae and whether or not activated carbon encourages its growth by adding phosphates
Should my tap water pH limit my stocking options? It is in the ballpark of 8.2-8.4. I am just wondering if that adds any limitations to the plants and fish that are in my tank.
As far as I understand, there just isn't a smart or economical way to change your pH.
So should I let a tap water pH of 8.4 worry me?
Also, aging my water has no effect.
nice video bro it bugges me how much noobs are concerned with their ph the important question is what is your nitrate reading i like how you add the aging water rant im a discus keeper who has to age his water and that is and important aspect
I just got a 29 gallon tank that has been cycling for about two weeks. I tested my PH for the first time the other day and its at 8. I only have 3 fish, a male betta and two blue gouramis the gouramis can take a ph of 8.8 and the betta has a max of 8(according to the internet). Per your video its good to have stable PH but, I'm worried about my Betta. Should I consider trying to lower the PH? Also I should note that I have a lot of live plants in the tank.
To add... only want to change .2 at most in a day.
What is your thought on using softner water? Our whole town is softened water and have been told by some to use half tap & half RO. I have done it both ways and havent noticed alot of difference with my fish but I think plants dont like the softened water. My ph from tap is around 7.5 & I never mess with trying to change it.
I head what you were saying. But, I didn't get any real information about what happens if ph is too high or low or how do you raise or lower your ph.
Around 6:30 in the video you say a point, like 6 to 7 for pH change in a day. I've heard a lot less then that of a change. Like going from 7.0 to 6.8 or 7.2, depending which way you might move. Going from a pH of 7.0 to 6.0 is a drastic change - 7.0 is 10 times more alkaline then 6.0. Definitely not as big of a difference between 8.0 and 6.0 (which is 100 times difference).
up and ph down chemicals are just a waste of money for sure. tank in the background looks great.
Hey I'm hoping you can help me, just to give you some background I have a 55 gallon freshwater tropical community tank set up approx. 2 wks ago now consisting of 1 full sized angel, 3 mollies, 1 tiger barb, 1 green barb, 5 tetras, 2 clown loaches, 1 upside down catfish, 2 cory catfish, 1 other catfish forgot name, 1 silver dollar, 2 sword tails (m and f) 3 fire barbs, 1 red tail shark, 1 roseline shark, 2 boesemani rainbow fish, 2 dwarf guaramies, 1 regular guaramie (all except the angel are still pretty small, we plan to move them all to our 125 gallon tank within the next 6 months) anyways during start up we used the Aqua Safe Plus water conditioner, were advised to add a product called Special Blend as the jump start bacteria for the tank, bought Active Flora gravel for its bacterial properties and mixed it with regular rinsed gravel, we were then advised to add approx. 15 feeder goldfish to begin the fish cycle 24hrs after treating the water and then to add a product called "Nite-Out" to help reduce nitrites and ammonia. After about 3 separate water testing's at our local Petco, they said we were ready to add the fish I mentioned above and remove the feeder goldfish (which are now in their own tank). Now to the point this morning I woke up to one of my sharks that I did not list was spinning around the tank dying, we tried to help him but he ended up dying, We decided to get the water checked at a diff shop where they used the testing kits rather than strips and they said our other levels were fine but our ph was too high (7.6) and then they did what I believe is called a "high range" ph test and that came back high as well. We were given that ph up / ph down kit and went home and added the 110 drops of the ph down to the tank....later on tonight another one of my unmentioned sharks did the same thing and died, so we were given a product called "Acid Buffer" from another shop that only deals with fish and told to throw out the other product bc they said it didn't work. My fiancé added both products in the same night because we were afraid we would wake up to more dead fish.. I know this was a long post but what I am looking for is some guidance so I can have a healthy and successful tank and I feel like as someone new to the hobby I am being given too many different and somewhat conflicting directions and advice to get this right. I would really appreciate some helpful insight from someone who is experienced, hope to hear back soon, thanks! (PS: we were also told to add a product called Stress relief anytime we added new fish and that's what we did, also wondering if that's something that needed to be used...the special blend, nite out and stress relief came in a package together)
Not sure what ended up happening to you, but it sounds like you guys added way too many fish for only a 2 week cycled tank. Even though it reads ok, doesn't mean you can just add all your stocking list at once. It will cause a huge spike in your water quality and that is what probably started taking out fish. Hope it eventually stablized and you didn't lose too many more fish. I usually only had 6-9 fish at at time depending on the size of fish and tank.
How do u buffer and what is buffer?
My 29 gallon tank has a Ph of 7.5, possibly higher since my test kit doesn't read anything higher. However it'd been running no more then 2months. I do weekly water changes with gravel siphoning. Could it be that my Tank needs aging? The inhabitants show no sign of stress currently.
Hi do you maintain your planted fish tank with out co2? Sorry my question is out of topic
Post more! Im so looking forward to all your discus vids. But you're not posting :(
I know this isn't a pH question, but I have a 10 gallon with plants that need medium lighting. Right now I have the Marineland hidden LED light, I dose daily with CO2 Booster and a splash of Leaf zone. where can I get your clamp lamps (that are strong enough that they won't fall in) and what light bulb do you suggest? Thank you so much
And many more what am I doing wrong and how do I need to fix this
watched your videos and this tank has taken off. are those standard desk lamps? with cfl or led bulbs? and how tall is that tank?
What if my tank is like 8.4? Is that going to be an issue?
I want to buy some guppies and breed them in my 10 gallon tank but do I have to adjust the PH before putting them in the tank?
No. Guppies are hardy fish so just make sure you do a good slow acclimation and they should be fine. If you have a ph test, go ahead and test your water and see where you are at. Usually, as long as it is within +/- 1.0 ph they will be fine.
The pH coming from my tap runs naturally high, around 8.0 to 8.4. Is this an okay level for tropical fish such as angels, gouramis, etc? If not, how would you recommend changing the pH? Awesome videos btw
There are products you can buy that boost or lower your pH, like acid and base buffers. Try looking those up.
Hey, I've been reading all sorts of opinions on the subject of ph swings and co2. Currently my ph reads 7.6 ish just before my lights and co2 come on and 6.8 just before they both go off. Now I've read opinions that vary from ph swings due to co2 aren't a big deal to no ph swing above .2 is good. I currently do not have fish in the tank, but I am hoping to get some in there soon. Basically as soon as I can solve this question. Now you say that a ph swing of 1 is not a big deal...even daily???
Does anyone know what the plant is in the far right corner of the aquarium?
I don't know if you'll answer question but I'm going to post it here and hope you answer. I had an issue with ramshorn snails and the calcium dissolving into the water and it reaching high levels. I was told this is what caused my ph to change from 6.5 to 8.2-8.5 in one month's time. Does this elevated ph put me at a higher risk from developing infections such as ich? Because I suddenly developed ich and all my dish are dead. Thanks if you actually read this.
can driftwood maintain the ph ?
Is it alright to feed with just frozen food? Blood worms and brine shrimp
I would suggest mixing in a decent flake food and or spiralina/smashed peas/wafer etc. They need plant based food and not just protein. Not saying its impossible but for happier/longer living fish..mix it up.
Thank you for responding
so high hahahha
Hey I have a 20g tank. Im wondering if I have to age my water if my ph from the tap is 7.8 and my tank is at 8.2 my dH is 10 and kh 120 ppm . I use an aqeon water changer right from the tap . Aging the water is alot of work and if my ph difference is minor then I won't do it. Thanks
+Ryan k I know this is 2 years old but info for others too....if your pH from tap is 7.8 and you "age water" it will rise a little. It will not get lower. Reason for this is right from tap it has Co2. Co2 lowers pH depending on kH but as it ages and gases off the pH will rise.
probably a lock ness monster infact bahahah xD
Good basic info and video:)
Be nice if I had ammonia lol
A lot of talking little information this bloke like his own voice.
thanks for the comment. it helped me get to 19k subscribers
Too speedy Dude.
You almost sound like your italien lol
its hidrogen not hidroxid
+élvio sousa Its definitely both. Increasing the hydrogen ion concentration [H+] lowers pH (more acidic) and increasing the hydroxide concentration [OH-] increases pH (more basic).
So first off, stop putting chemicals in your tank. You should never do that. They just cause more problems and essentially cover up the real issue. Ok, so you don't need to change ph or hardness. Fish can adapt to whatever your water parameters are naturally if you acclimate them well. By trying to change it, the levels fluctuate putting stress on the fish. If you have ammonia and nitrites there shouldn't be many fish in the tank. In fact you should ideally perform a fishless cycle. Peace
Coke
u stoned bro? lo
Wouldn't you like to know lol
great videos, please check out my videos, i need some input on my aquariums. its been like a year that i started with fish keeping but i still consider myself a newbie. so yea please check em out any advise would be appreciated
I'm relatively new to aquariums and my tank is at 8.4, i personaly think this is too high. what do you think and what is the best way to lower it?
Marco Merola