THANKS for doing this video!!! I don't understand...a boost controller is supposed to be a user adjustable calibrated leak(s) that bleeds air to the turbo wastegate diaphragm control spring. What was the turbocharger boost doing when you said it quit (over boosting or just producing spring pressure boost)? First video shows 5 PSI low/ 8 PSI high so that means the needle valves were adjusted so that the two calibrated leaks were bleeding the turbo compressor output signal to the controller to what you wanted? If the O ring(S) failed (both of them failed...REALLY???) or there was another leak in the hoses or a leak internal to the WG controller system then the turbo would pump up to way more than 5 PSI/8PSI. If the WG rusted shut then the engine would way over boost. If the hose to the controller was blocked/ pinched then the turbo would only boost up to spring boost value. Did you test the three hoses...(Compressor to Tee/ Tee to Dual Controller/ Tee to Wastegate diaphragm)? Since the car sat for a long time did you test the Wastegate diaphragm to ensure that it is holding air pressure and therefore moving the Wastegate??? Did you use a new hose to bypass the new fangled dual stage WG controller and see if the boost returned to spring pressure boost? Inquiring minds want to know?!?!?!? Come on Mr. Garage (can I call you Bad)...Bring on the info...MoFo!!! Seriously THANKS for the time you spent on the video!!!
Yes everything was tested. If you watch the later videos you’ll see I just decided to adjust the gate with springs and was eventually running a 12lb spring and making 12lbs so wastegate and hoses were good. I have no idea why this controller failed other than maybe moisture and rust. As stated in the video the solenoid that diverts air from one valve to the other was clicking but after disassembly I decided to just trash it and call it a loss. The controller worked the first few times I used it, then after sitting for a few weeks it no longer had any effect. Ultimately the thing was just junk in my opinion. I use and review a lot of eBay parts in this channel and from what I’ve seen it’s pretty much always a crap shoot as to wether you’re going to get a winner or a loser. 😉
@@BadLuckGarage thank you for your reply . it is really cool that you do these videos so thanks! When you say the boost controller no longer had any effect that would eliminate the problem of internal leaks in the controller. this is because a boost controller is supposed to be a calibrated leak so if it does not have any effect then something is preventing the air pressure produced by the turbocharger compressor from getting to the boost controller . if the symptom was overboosting then the problem could certainly be bad o ring or some other internal leak or a break in some of the rubber tubing that allows an air leak. If the symptom is "No effect" this means that all of the air pressure from the turbo compressor is being introduced to the wastegate and that the manual boost controller is not allowing any kind of calibrated leak.
Yes...even with the valve fully seated its still bleeding off air and the amount of airflow doesn't change. The o-rings were still well greased too. I filed it in the circular cabinet after making this video,lol. Like I said in previous videos, I decided to just set the boost where I wanted it with the appropriate spring and forget about boost controllers all together. I'll do the same with any future turbo build. 😉
I really want a self contained procharger... I just really like the idea of being able to blow an engine without fear of damaging the head unit like you would with a turbo or engine oil feed head unit..
Yea that was my plan as well. In the end I just went back to the spray for my daily drivers. Way less hassle. Need an extra 100hp? Just turn on a second kit. 😜 Planning a track only turbo build next but since it’ll just be strictly race I can just swap wastegate spring between rounds if I need more. 😉
@@BadLuckGaragesucks that it broke, i want to wire up something like this to a button on the shifter so i can launch in 1st at a lower boost for traction and then hit the button once i shift into 2nd. Diy boost by gear lol
Well I look at it this was. It’s only $35-$40. With eBay China stuff you’ve usually got a 50/50 shot of it working good. If you like to gamble you make be more lucky than I am guys. 😉
@@BadLuckGarage sadly someone i know just bought one ill give him your recommendation to lube and change the seal but im just happy i didnt buy one lol
@@BadLuckGarage yea i do realize these people are trying to get good reviews these days.... not like years ago when u were guaranteed to get rubbish from china on ebay lol
Yea brother I’ve had my ups and downs with eBay and Amazon parts as you can see from my videos. In general I have way better luck with mechanical parts than I do with electrical parts. 👍🏻
@@BadLuckGarage so, there is no need of a boost pressure regulator? I mean: if you set your wastegate at xx psi, it will open. It's a question, I never understood the real need of a boost pressure regulator if there's a wastegate.
Of you like to change boost levels or run one level for street and one for race or need a way to bring boost in at different levels for each gear then a boost controller makes changes more convienent or in the latter case a necessity. If you’re going to just set a boost level and stick with it then a boost controller just becomes an unnecessary extra piece of equipment, an extra expense, and another possible failure point. In that case springing the wastegate for your desired boost level will always be more consistent and more reliable
Hello i did buy this. But only worked on the lowboost side. On the highboost simply is not doing nothing. The weird part is that the highboost part is acting like no air is coming out. Just the low boost part is changing the high boost is like it’s just closed
Hope this video helps some of you out. If it did, dont forget to share!
Hey man, when it failed, did it overboost or did it just let air pass through as if there's no boost controller at all?
THANKS for doing this video!!! I don't understand...a boost controller is supposed to be a user adjustable calibrated leak(s) that bleeds air to the turbo wastegate diaphragm control spring. What was the turbocharger boost doing when you said it quit (over boosting or just producing spring pressure boost)? First video shows 5 PSI low/ 8 PSI high so that means the needle valves were adjusted so that the two calibrated leaks were bleeding the turbo compressor output signal to the controller to what you wanted? If the O ring(S) failed (both of them failed...REALLY???) or there was another leak in the hoses or a leak internal to the WG controller system then the turbo would pump up to way more than 5 PSI/8PSI. If the WG rusted shut then the engine would way over boost. If the hose to the controller was blocked/ pinched then the turbo would only boost up to spring boost value. Did you test the three hoses...(Compressor to Tee/ Tee to Dual Controller/ Tee to Wastegate diaphragm)? Since the car sat for a long time did you test the Wastegate diaphragm to ensure that it is holding air pressure and therefore moving the Wastegate??? Did you use a new hose to bypass the new fangled dual stage WG controller and see if the boost returned to spring pressure boost? Inquiring minds want to know?!?!?!? Come on Mr. Garage (can I call you Bad)...Bring on the info...MoFo!!! Seriously THANKS for the time you spent on the video!!!
Yes everything was tested. If you watch the later videos you’ll see I just decided to adjust the gate with springs and was eventually running a 12lb spring and making 12lbs so wastegate and hoses were good. I have no idea why this controller failed other than maybe moisture and rust. As stated in the video the solenoid that diverts air from one valve to the other was clicking but after disassembly I decided to just trash it and call it a loss. The controller worked the first few times I used it, then after sitting for a few weeks it no longer had any effect. Ultimately the thing was just junk in my opinion. I use and review a lot of eBay parts in this channel and from what I’ve seen it’s pretty much always a crap shoot as to wether you’re going to get a winner or a loser. 😉
@@BadLuckGarage thank you for your reply . it is really cool that you do these videos so thanks! When you say the boost controller no longer had any effect that would eliminate the problem of internal leaks in the controller. this is because a boost controller is supposed to be a calibrated leak so if it does not have any effect then something is preventing the air pressure produced by the turbocharger compressor from getting to the boost controller . if the symptom was overboosting then the problem could certainly be bad o ring or some other internal leak or a break in some of the rubber tubing that allows an air leak. If the symptom is "No effect" this means that all of the air pressure from the turbo compressor is being introduced to the wastegate and that the manual boost controller is not allowing any kind of calibrated leak.
@@billhunter611 exactly
Maybe you could try lubing the orings?
maybe when the water got in there it "washed" them? So air's bleeding by?
Yes...even with the valve fully seated its still bleeding off air and the amount of airflow doesn't change. The o-rings were still well greased too. I filed it in the circular cabinet after making this video,lol. Like I said in previous videos, I decided to just set the boost where I wanted it with the appropriate spring and forget about boost controllers all together. I'll do the same with any future turbo build. 😉
I really want a self contained procharger...
I just really like the idea of being able to blow an engine without fear of damaging the head unit like you would with a turbo or engine oil feed head unit..
Yea Im going the supercharger route somewhere down the road for sure.
It don’t stop airflow it bleeds it off so there’s always airflow it put a hole in the path
yes and it wasnt changing the airflow through the diverter passage at all....which was the problem.
So just pay alil more and get the turbosmart one ?
Or just do what I did and buy the correct spring for you wastegate. Set it and forget it. 😜
@@BadLuckGarage it's always good to be able to put some race gas in it hit that hi boost switch and get another 100hp
Yea that was my plan as well. In the end I just went back to the spray for my daily drivers. Way less hassle. Need an extra 100hp? Just turn on a second kit. 😜 Planning a track only turbo build next but since it’ll just be strictly race I can just swap wastegate spring between rounds if I need more. 😉
@@BadLuckGaragesucks that it broke, i want to wire up something like this to a button on the shifter so i can launch in 1st at a lower boost for traction and then hit the button once i shift into 2nd. Diy boost by gear lol
Well I look at it this was. It’s only $35-$40. With eBay China stuff you’ve usually got a 50/50 shot of it working good. If you like to gamble you make be more lucky than I am guys. 😉
😎
wow saw these going cheap for like $35us and was about to buy one but said let me check online to see how they are
thanks a mil for making this video
Yes sir and thank you for watching. Be sure to share it if you think it may help others!
@@BadLuckGarage sadly someone i know just bought one ill give him your recommendation to lube and change the seal but im just happy i didnt buy one lol
I’ve found most things like this on eBay and Amazon are about a 50/50 shot. Maybe he’ll get lucky,lol
@@BadLuckGarage yea i do realize these people are trying to get good reviews these days.... not like years ago when u were guaranteed to get rubbish from china on ebay lol
Yea brother I’ve had my ups and downs with eBay and Amazon parts as you can see from my videos. In general I have way better luck with mechanical parts than I do with electrical parts. 👍🏻
I bought one of those my self and it didnt work either they are definitely junk! Only lets me go up to 10lbs.
sorry to hear that brother. Hopefully this video will help save some other people from this $45 waste.
same issue here also
change all the seals with good seals and lube the inside and try it out again
Not even worth it brother. Went straight in the trash. I sprung the wastegate at the level I wanted it and said to heck with these things. 👍🏻
Bad Luck Garage Yeah I agree somethings aren't even worth the time
@@BadLuckGarage so, there is no need of a boost pressure regulator? I mean: if you set your wastegate at xx psi, it will open.
It's a question, I never understood the real need of a boost pressure regulator if there's a wastegate.
Of you like to change boost levels or run one level for street and one for race or need a way to bring boost in at different levels for each gear then a boost controller makes changes more convienent or in the latter case a necessity. If you’re going to just set a boost level and stick with it then a boost controller just becomes an unnecessary extra piece of equipment, an extra expense, and another possible failure point. In that case springing the wastegate for your desired boost level will always be more consistent and more reliable
@@BadLuckGarage thank you. You clearify me a lot.
Id try to get a lil better boost controller brother
yea I actually decided against boost controllers all together about 20 videos back. I just decided to spring the gate properly and forget it. 👍
@@BadLuckGarage thats alot easier to do then take a chance blowing your motor
Jason Cameron
exactly.👍
Hello i did buy this. But only worked on the lowboost side. On the highboost simply is not doing nothing. The weird part is that the highboost part is acting like no air is coming out. Just the low boost part is changing the high boost is like it’s just closed