I work for Sherwin-Williams. This is a great video for learning about how to stain a fence. Thank you so much! I'll use what I learned here to help our customers!
Wow. Great job with the fence. Looks great. Good tips too for painting. Didn't know about the benefit of the special tip for the power washer nor the required pressure needed. Cool. Thanks Chris!
Great video. No matter what project I am working on, you always have a video that covers the steps and, more importantly, the precise tools to complete the job. Really top notch. Keep up the good work.
Hey Chris, you always do a heart job, but I will have to agree with the comments that suggest chem washing and rinse. With the right mix and a thorough rinsing ,will be less abrasive with out scoring up the wood. All in all, we are still a fan! Thanks Chris.
believe it or not liquid chlorine spray through a pump sprayer to kill the mildew 1st really does help with a low pressure wash some high pressure but it doesn't scar nor does it take the wood it really is a great method that I've learned over the years that saves valuable time and even leaves the wood looking fabulous got any scars
Thank you for great tips. I'm planning to stain with Behr All-in-One our new fence and not sure if you need to prewash a new pickets (they were washed 2 times by the rain and look very good). Sir, you need to wear respirator, when you spray that stuff (even if you show us a small fragment of your work). That design with different colors for posts and pickets looks very nice.Thank you again.
Have you ever tried using 12.5 % SH with an xJET SYTEM to help with making it a faster process? Just a thought? You guys are great, keep up with the great work!
Thanks very much. Never thought pressure washer can make an old fence look new like that. Does it really take off a thin layer of wood or just removed dirt and stain?
I have watched many of your videos Chris and after watching this video I wanted to comment and let you know that I have been in the Deck Restoration business for many years with 25 years of experience washing, stripping, sealing & staining wood fences/decks. As a professional within the industry, I would never use the rotating tip in this video to restore a fence or deck! There is a product that Benjamin Moore makes called "Wood Restore" which should be applied to the gray wood before washing to loosen up the old gray wood fibers for it to be easily washed with a low-pressure tip to get better end results.
Hello my friend. Can you give me some tips for all cares of my fence. Because im ñiving in mexico and here nobody makes thins kind of jobs. And i want to do it by myself Thank you.
Thank you for your videos. I bought a rotating nozzle for my 4000psi pw, I like the yellow tip better because the rotating nozzle makes the wood thready. I feel like if I sanded it after then it may look better but I have yet to try that.
The oxalic acid is a brightening agent. And will bring the wood back to a more natural look. Which then allows for a more natural stain product. (If using a solid stain this isn’t a necessary step)
Chris - Thanks for your videos! My husband and I stained the interior of our pine fence with a pecan semitransparent stain. I live in a corner and the exterior of the fence now shows all the knots turned almost black. Looks pretty bad. Will that fade? I don't know how to fix this other than powerwashing and staining the outside, but I can't use the same dark color outside (home association). Will a light stain do anything to hide the darkened knots? If I power wash the outside fence, will I damage the interior? If I stain the outside, will this darken the knots on the inside? Thanks!
My cedar fence is 1 year old. It does not show signs of mold and very little discoloring. Before a spray cedar transparent sealer on, should I still power wash the fence?
Great video! I put up an AC2 Treated fence last spring and was told not to touch it for a year. Will I need to follow the same process? Any additional tips for AC2 Pine? I now wish I would have sprung for cedar, but oh well!
Love the video and the tips. I never even heard of a rotating nozzle until I saw this video. I like to do things by myself when I can and your videos are definitely a huge help. I want to stain my back yard fence and looked it up on RUclips and your channel was the first to pop up. Keep up the good work, I look forward to exploring more of your channel and wish you the best.
I have the same question. The video makes no mention of how long to wait after washing before you can stain. I now the surface might look dry but water may still be below surface of the wood. ry time will of course depend of air temperature but does anyone have a general idea? It is about 70 degrees here.
@@LionelMessi-vl1iw google my stain says 3 days. But I'm trying to get it done. Its 100 here. I want to know how long he waited - seems like he came back the next day??
I just started a Pressure Washing business an the first customer I got first question was if I can wash the old stain off his fence because he didn't like it an wanted to change it, so how do I remove it will a pressure washer remove it without warping the wood or is there a chemical I can use to basically soft wash it, Bleach??
Why the accent color on posts though? It looks jacked up to me with different colored posts. But to each their own. Great job and very good educational video.
Muchas gracias por compartir tan útiles consejos me pareció muy interesante ,muy bonito trabajo te mando un enorme abrazo desde Chihuahua Chihuahua México 🇲🇽🇲🇽
hello what should i do if my fence is just beginning to darken but is still new, i would like to stain ASAP do i have to power wash it all or can i just stain the darker spots
Hey Chris,...would i be able to use a roller and pole for the back-brush" im like 6'6 tall and i have a mile of fence that i have previously presure washed....
Fixing to power wash & clean my cedar fence. Do I use diluted Bleach ? If so what ratio ? Or is there another product you would suggest ? Great information on rotating Tip for My 3100 psi Power washer, just returned from buying one. Thank You
Steve Austin green tip is not straight the green tip is wide i know what you ment but others can get confused and 1600 PSI is enough to strip paint and not damage the fence however it CAN damage the fence if you dont use common sense always use it on a test piece before your actual fence
When you paint over with wood stain the fuzzies help absorb the wood stain. If there are fuzzies perhaps you didn’t pay for the fence to be stained rather just cleaned
@@meglucas2593 that’s why it’s better to apply stain with a paint brush so it will get what’s loose and also get into the crevices of the wood. Wood is like a sponge so whatever falls after won’t matter because whatever is behind has absorbed the stain as well. Paint brush is key
Wouldn’t all that dirt fly back up? 4,000 psi is a lot of hydropower. How did you spray the bottom? I’m tempted to run plastic and trench out the bottom.
hi chris, thanks for doing what you're doing and making these videos for us. i got a couple of questions for you. 1) i have a 3000psi pressure washer. my neighbor shares the same fence as me and has stain their fence about a year ago, do you think the power washer will strip their staining job? its about a 3 year old cedar fence. 2)my washer doesn't include a rotating nozzle, do you recommend me to go pick one up at home depot? 3)i dont have a paint sprayer and i plan on just brushing semi transparent stain on. do you have any tips for that?
Very nice video. I am about to clean and stain my privacy fence in my back yard. My only problem is that one of the fences on one side of the yard belongs to my neighbor. I want to stain my side of that fence. How do I go about doing this without dripping stain onto my neighbors side of the fence.
I'm using an electric power washer that puts out 2030 PSI. It works pretty good, not as fast obviously, but for $142 it makes my fence look like brand new. Don't forget to rinse and re-rinse the opposite sides, because that stuff gets everywhere and its sticky enough not to just brush off with a broom later.
Quick question: I just finished pressure washing my pine fence and want to use an oil based stain. How long do I need to wait for the wood to dry before staining? I live in MN and we have been having a lot of rain as well.
Hey The Idaho Painter! I have a few questions about this. 1. Do I just use water through my pressure washer to wash my fence or should i use a chemical mix? 2. Do i need to sand down my fence before or after wash because it is a little rough, or will the power wash make it smooth?
Before you turn on the power wash, shouldn't you keep your finger pressed down on the trigger so you don't pop a gasket then start it up? Keeping the throttle/choke turned down too?
Great info...and demonstration. Will apply to fence..when I get to it...plus wood deck, when I get to it...plus stripping old old paint off houses so I can prime and paint...gotta do that now...b/f they cancel the insurance. Demo and info reveals the 3000 PSI machine will do the job so I"l buy one of those machines (vs. $$s more for 4000 PSI).
I'm a painter myself and you should do a light pressure wash with a bleach mixture to help kill and remove the mold. Most good power washing rigs have an intake and small hose to insert into a container of bleach for this reason. The power washer mixes it itself so it is effortless. Use a low pressure to fir this step.
***** We use a pump called a Juice Box. It comes with a 100' hose that you can use bleach water with. We used to use the pump sprayers, but with this it saves time. Time is $$$! I call it my Juice Box Hero. They cost a bit, but it will pay for itself! The only problems we had with it was the cheap plastic fittings. If you decide to get one change the fittings to brass, or galvie. They do break, and it sucks when you're at the jobsite then something breaks!
I know the power washers from Sherwin Williams had the honda motors and they had a PSI we used anywhere from 3000-3800 and we always were warned to not to pop the gasket so keep the finger down on the trigger then start it and turn on the water first. Don't dry run it
Danny7618 Sometimes I tie a piece of rope on the trigger, and handle to purge it then I can do something besides standing there doing nothing. When you have 100' of hose, and 100' of P.W. line it takes awhile to purge. Another thing I was taught was to not run it for longer then 30 min. without using it, and try to not stop it too much. It wears the pump out faster! That pressure washer was probably over $2,000 at the S.W. dealer. We have a 3,800 P.S.I. at the shop that' not running. It's only 2 years old. I'll bet it was caused by a rookie that did what I just wrote NOT TO DO! You try to teach them the right way to do things, but they don't care. It's not their dime. They only care about who is texting them, or the money their making doing a crappy job that you have to fix to make them look like they did a good job. Then the boss is wondering why the job is taking so long! Last year if my boss would of hired one more good painter he wouldn't of had to pay for three guys who never picked up a brush in their life. Then he blames me for the job taking so long! Sorry for venting!
Amazing job guys, looks great. To anyone wondering what PSI is actually required to strip a fence properly its 2.5Gal/min at 1600 PSI. Ijust stripped my fence, does it take longer? yes. but its doable.
Excellent Job, you're a good!. I have a couple of questions: How long did you have to wait to paint that fence after power washing it? and How long would you wait after installing a new pine fence to paint it? Thank you.
If you're using semi-transparent stain I recommend oil base. Water base stains are not as good as oil base stains period. The trouble is many oil based products are being taken off the market nowadays and depending where you live it might be hard to find any good semi-transparent or opaque oil base stains Another thing is semi-transparent stains are thin enough to use a 2 /12 gallons pump sprayer to apply it on a fence. Much cheaper and much simpler to use and less back spray because it uses less pressure. Plus you can add thinner if it's too thick. You can also use a hot dog roller for catching any drips instead of using a brush. Another thing you can do instead of using semi-transparent stain is to use linseed oil instead. It's what they use on the wooden stocks of expensive firearms. Not only is it all-natural, no chemicals, but it has a 75 year life expectancy. What linseed oil does is bring out the grain and makes it slightly darker so it looks like it was stained. All you're doing is using the natural color of the wood instead of trying to put an artificial color onto it. Linseed oil sinks in deeper than semi-transparent stains and lasts longer. The proper mixture is 1/3rd to 1/2 thinner so it will soak into the wood deeper and dry faster. This way it should dry in 1-2 days. If you don't thin it, it will take a month to dry and you don't want that. The one drawback to using linseed oil is that it slowly gets darker with age. If you fill the pores of the wood so the linseed oil is sitting on top of the wood instead of inside it, in a hot sunny climate it can turn the wood black. Meaning you should not overload the wood with too much linseed oil Linseed oil is also the best primer money can buy and at 12 dollars a gallon it is also the cheapest primer money can buy and the most natural non-toxic primer money can buy for outdoor wooden exteriors. Believe me, no primer on the market has a life expectancy of 75 years! The best way to prime a wood exterior is to give it two coats of 66% linseed oil mixed with 33% thinner and let it dry 2 days before applying the 2nd coat... Then putt 2 coats of oil base gloss straight over the linseed oil without any primer. You will be doing yourself out of repainting it for years, but your customers will be very satisfied with the longevity of the paint job. The bond between linseed oil and a good oil base exterior gloss is virtually unbreakable. It will never peel or chalk. It may crack with age. If you use latex exterior gloss instead of oil base you've virtually solved that possibility also. Latex gloss ext paints last longer and they don't darken or fade or lose their gloss as oil base glosses do, but they are not sandable, which is one main reason I don't like to use them . Oil bases may fade or crack after a number of years, but you can sand them down and repaint and the job will look much better. In the long term, Oil base glosses are better because you can feather the paint so you can't see where you sanded it. Latex paints tend to peel when sanded and keep on peeling no matter how much you you try to feather it out. Plus, if the original latex paint job is not done properly the whole thing can start peeling. Oil base paints have a much better bond than latex paints and are much less likely to peel. They also take less prep work to apply. Many latex glosses have to be primed first before you use them on any glossy surface. Not so with oil base glosses. Oil base glosses stick to almost anything without needing to prime or sand and they don't peel or come off.
***** I learned about linseed oil from an old painter 55 years ago when I did my 1st paint job painting our summer cottage up north. The fact is, old technology is in many ways better than the new chemicals. Boiled Linseed oil is 100% organic. It doesn't pollute the environment. 70 years ago painters made their own paint by using linseed oil as a base. Once upon a time nearly all paint was linseed oil base. Do a test with 2 pieces of wood. One with 2 coats of linseed oil as a primer, the other with your usual ext primer... then stick them outside in the sun and see which one lasts longer. In 5 years you'll see what I'm talking about... Look up the specs on linseed oil. Lots of companies do not recommend linseed oil as a primer because can't make money off it. If they tell you you shouldn't use linseed oil as a primer they're full of it. You can use linseed oil as a primer inside or outside. It will stick to anything: oil base or water base.. It just takes longer because you have to do at least 2 coats. The real problem with using cheap. simple, organic products like linseed oil is selling the customer on it. If you tell your customer that using linseed oil as a primer, their exterior trim will last longer and that linseed oil is the only product on the market with a 75 year life expectancy and it's organic and non- polluting and costs only 12 dollars a gallon, many of them will let you use it. Or... you can just not tell them what kind of primer you're using if they're not interested. The thing is it takes a day to dry and then a 2nd coat and that has to dry one day too That's 3 days just for the priming. If you want a quality job and spend the extra time I guarantee it will last longer than any other primer on the market because linseed oil thinned by 1/3rd sinks deeper into the wood than anything else and bonds to paint better than anything else. You can also use it as an additive in oil base paints. It will slow down the drying time, But it will make for a better bond and the sheen will be shinier and it will last longer. All the stains used to be linseed oil base before the damn chemical companies started messing with the old formulas.
***** Farmers used linseed oil on their plows and farm tools as a rust preventative for hundreds of years. That's another bonus: it prevents rusting. Remember Olympic Stain? That was before your time. They used to sell Olympic stain all over the USA and Canada. It was too good and too cheap so they came out with all kinds of expensive new chemicals in their stains to replace the linseed oil base and Olympic Stain Co. went out of business. All those 500 yr-old old paintings you see at a museum were made with linseed oil. You figure if paint on a canvas can last for 500 years it might be worth using on a house but no: they can't make any money off it. Take a look at the wood grain on the stocks of expensive rifles: They look beautiful because they've been rubbed with linseed oil. No stain, just pure 100% linseed oil.
***** Unless you do a direct comparison that's just an opinion. I've done direct comparisons for over 40 years now. If you ever use linseed oil you'll find out what I say is true. If you don't you'll never find out.
***** Go back to the job you used it on 5 years later and compare what the condition of the paint is like to a job you did 5 years ago with ordinary primer... That means you have to be painting for at least 5 years to do an honest comparison
Great vid! Scanned to send my buddy a tutorial since he has a project and is to far away. Im sending this one and only watched a few minutes. Gotta get em estimates! Since we're not close enough to be competitors... Just thought you might want to try a 512 since when there botched it turns into a 515-7 in general. As well as using a bad interior roller locked down by a screw/synched tape... to double team to one spraying while another back dragging. Third generation house painter and love swapping ideas with other companies. - Cheers man and Brandon says thanks in advance
Hey, thank you for being here with us! Due to the overwhelming amount of messages we get each day, we have created an amazing community through a private FaceBook group called Paint Life Mafia. Join us for private live shows and much more. Only members will be allowed to enter and interact in the group, creating a tighter knit community of painters. Each tier has different perks, depending on what you are looking for. Click here to learn more about this EXCLUSIVE group and join: facebook.com/groups/2305219262837596/ Special Thanks - Chris Berry, The Idaho Painter
I work for Sherwin-Williams. This is a great video for learning about how to stain a fence. Thank you so much! I'll use what I learned here to help our customers!
Amazing transformation to the fence. When I looked at it for the first time, I never imagined it could look so beautiful. Great job.
Wow. Great job with the fence. Looks great. Good tips too for painting. Didn't know about the benefit of the special tip for the power washer nor the required pressure needed. Cool. Thanks Chris!
Great video. No matter what project I am working on, you always have a video that covers the steps and, more importantly, the precise tools to complete the job. Really top notch. Keep up the good work.
Hey Chris, you always do a heart job, but I will have to agree with the comments that suggest chem washing and rinse. With the right mix and a thorough rinsing ,will be less abrasive with out scoring up the wood. All in all, we are still a fan! Thanks Chris.
believe it or not liquid chlorine spray through a pump sprayer to kill the mildew 1st really does help with a low pressure wash some high pressure but it doesn't scar nor does it take the wood it really is a great method that I've learned over the years that saves valuable time and even leaves the wood looking fabulous got any scars
Thank you for great tips. I'm planning to stain with Behr All-in-One our new fence and not sure if you need to prewash a new pickets (they were washed 2 times by the rain and look very good). Sir, you need to wear respirator, when you spray that stuff (even if you show us a small fragment of your work). That design with different colors for posts and pickets looks very nice.Thank you again.
Very helpful. Thanks for making and sharing this video.
excellent. .Josh
you explained so nicely.
Thank you🤙
Chris, plus 1 dude! I did the exact method and paint color as you an the owner is very happy! Great video. Thanks again!
Have you ever tried using 12.5 % SH with an xJET SYTEM to help with making it a faster process? Just a thought? You guys are great, keep up with the great work!
Getting ready to do the same thing to my fence. Good education, sir. Thanks for the tips.
Hi friend. My english is not good but my question is, are you using some product or only water?
Thanks very much. Never thought pressure washer can make an old fence look new like that. Does it really take off a thin layer of wood or just removed dirt and stain?
Great video, feel confident I can do mine today now thank u.
I have watched many of your videos Chris and after watching this video I wanted to comment and let you know that I have been in the Deck Restoration business for many years with 25 years of experience washing, stripping, sealing & staining wood fences/decks. As a professional within the industry, I would never use the rotating tip in this video to restore a fence or deck! There is a product that Benjamin Moore makes called "Wood Restore" which should be applied to the gray wood before washing to loosen up the old gray wood fibers for it to be easily washed with a low-pressure tip to get better end results.
Hello my friend. Can you give me some tips for all cares of my fence. Because im ñiving in mexico and here nobody makes thins kind of jobs. And i want to do it by myself
Thank you.
How do you apply the Wood Restore product?
Thank you for your videos. I bought a rotating nozzle for my 4000psi pw, I like the yellow tip better because the rotating nozzle makes the wood thready. I feel like if I sanded it after then it may look better but I have yet to try that.
How long do you have to wait until you can stain? Does the wood have to be dry?
It says it on the back of the can. Some are made so you can stain it 4 hours after washing your fence some you have to wait 2 days.
I love power washer tips man! 3000psi minimum, rotating nozzles and viola! start the job!
nice video you should talk more about paint sprayers and tips for us beginners.
Thank you for all your videos
Unbelievable transformation. Great video. Was this a pine fence?
Use chems. Rotating nozzle will damage the wood. Proper chems and minimum amount of pressure
Josh Mallett what chemicals do you use on a fence?
Sorry for the late reply. I use sodium percarbonate. Followed by oxalic acid. Around 1800-2000 psi. A little more is fine but be cautious
@@123joshmallett im curious why follow with oxacilic acid I use percarbonaye spray on with sprayer or strong downstream then scrub with brush?
@@123joshmallett i do agree guy in video will end up with a ugly furry fence and a pissed clie t
The oxalic acid is a brightening agent. And will bring the wood back to a more natural look. Which then allows for a more natural stain product. (If using a solid stain this isn’t a necessary step)
Wondering what kind of machine was used to do the staining?
Same
Chris - Thanks for your videos! My husband and I stained the interior of our pine fence with a pecan semitransparent stain. I live in a corner and the exterior of the fence now shows all the knots turned almost black. Looks pretty bad. Will that fade? I don't know how to fix this other than powerwashing and staining the outside, but I can't use the same dark color outside (home association). Will a light stain do anything to hide the darkened knots? If I power wash the outside fence, will I damage the interior? If I stain the outside, will this darken the knots on the inside? Thanks!
Excellent work 👍🏻
Boise! My hometown! Was thrilled to hear that.
Thanks for the video and tips! How long after power washing the fence, did you apply the stain?
Next day
@@Idahopainter Thanks for the reply!
My cedar fence is 1 year old. It does not show signs of mold and very little discoloring. Before a spray cedar transparent sealer on, should I still power wash the fence?
Great video! I put up an AC2 Treated fence last spring and was told not to touch it for a year. Will I need to follow the same process? Any additional tips for AC2 Pine? I now wish I would have sprung for cedar, but oh well!
what a difference before and after:is very nice the final product
Love the video and the tips. I never even heard of a rotating nozzle until I saw this video. I like to do things by myself when I can and your videos are definitely a huge help. I want to stain my back yard fence and looked it up on RUclips and your channel was the first to pop up. Keep up the good work, I look forward to exploring more of your channel and wish you the best.
i might of missed it but how long did you wait for it dry before applying stain? its 100 over here, im thinking a day would be ready?
I have the same question. The video makes no mention of how long to wait after washing before you can stain. I now the surface might look dry but water may still be below surface of the wood. ry time will of course depend of air temperature but does anyone have a general idea? It is about 70 degrees here.
@@LionelMessi-vl1iw google my stain says 3 days. But I'm trying to get it done. Its 100 here. I want to know how long he waited - seems like he came back the next day??
I just started a Pressure Washing business an the first customer I got first question was if I can wash the old stain off his fence because he didn't like it an wanted to change it, so how do I remove it will a pressure washer remove it without warping the wood or is there a chemical I can use to basically soft wash it, Bleach??
thanks for sharing your advice about the priming
You are welcome!
I'm attempting to put together a quote. What was the price for pressure washing and staining? Thank you.
What did you use besides pressurized water to clean the fence?
What size tip would you recommend? I'm getting a lot of mist.
HEA 515
@@Idahopainter somebody said 308 or 208. I have a Graco sprayer. So a 515
Awesome video
Why the accent color on posts though? It looks jacked up to me with different colored posts. But to each their own. Great job and very good educational video.
Muchas gracias por compartir tan útiles consejos me pareció muy interesante ,muy bonito trabajo te mando un enorme abrazo desde Chihuahua Chihuahua México 🇲🇽🇲🇽
This was a helpful video. I have this as an up coming project. Thanks for posting.
hello what should i do if my fence is just beginning to darken but is still new, i would like to stain ASAP do i have to power wash it all or can i just stain the darker spots
Which pressure washer model did you use..3000 or 4000 psi..you said 4000 but linked 3000
Hey Chris,...would i be able to use a roller and pole for the back-brush" im like 6'6 tall and i have a mile of fence that i have previously presure washed....
Chris great video I am a painter myself with 27 years experience if it works it works keep up the good word
Fixing to power wash & clean my cedar fence. Do I use diluted Bleach ? If so what ratio ? Or is there another product you would suggest ? Great information on rotating Tip for My 3100 psi Power washer, just returned from buying one. Thank You
Steve Austin green tip is not straight the green tip is wide i know what you ment but others can get confused and 1600 PSI is enough to strip paint and not damage the fence however it CAN damage the fence if you dont use common sense always use it on a test piece before your actual fence
What do you do about the wood fuzzies from pressuring washing?
When you paint over with wood stain the fuzzies help absorb the wood stain. If there are fuzzies perhaps you didn’t pay for the fence to be stained rather just cleaned
@@alexanderszell2375 they help absorb the stain but they can fall off and then the stain looks uneven.
@@meglucas2593 that’s why it’s better to apply stain with a paint brush so it will get what’s loose and also get into the crevices of the wood. Wood is like a sponge so whatever falls after won’t matter because whatever is behind has absorbed the stain as well. Paint brush is key
Wouldn’t all that dirt fly back up? 4,000 psi is a lot of hydropower. How did you spray the bottom? I’m tempted to run plastic and trench out the bottom.
hi chris, thanks for doing what you're doing and making these videos for us. i got a couple of questions for you.
1) i have a 3000psi pressure washer. my neighbor shares the same fence as me and has stain their fence about a year ago, do you think the power washer will strip their staining job? its about a 3 year old cedar fence.
2)my washer doesn't include a rotating nozzle, do you recommend me to go pick one up at home depot?
3)i dont have a paint sprayer and i plan on just brushing semi transparent stain on. do you have any tips for that?
Thanks for your answer on your discussion page of youtube..you're awesome! Keep up the good work!
How long are you waiting in-between pressure washing and staining?
Very nice video. I am about to clean and stain my privacy fence in my back yard. My only problem is that one of the fences on one side of the yard belongs to my neighbor. I want to stain my side of that fence. How do I go about doing this without dripping stain onto my neighbors side of the fence.
Would you recommend using a white exterior semi gloss on a rough cut fence? Like on white picket fences?
I'm using an electric power washer that puts out 2030 PSI. It works pretty good, not as fast obviously, but for $142 it makes my fence look like brand new. Don't forget to rinse and re-rinse the opposite sides, because that stuff gets everywhere and its sticky enough not to just brush off with a broom later.
Yes, thanks for sharing Robert!
Can the equipment you used to prep and stain the fence be rented somewhere by non-professionals?
Great job on the video. Very instructive. Nice camera work.
Excellent!!! Based upon your experience, how long will the stain "last"?
Quick question: I just finished pressure washing my pine fence and want to use an oil based stain. How long do I need to wait for the wood to dry before staining? I live in MN and we have been having a lot of rain as well.
Bone dry get a moisture meter to check
Beautiful job!
Thank you! Cheers!
you don't need 3000 PSI, just did my fence with my little electric Ryobi 2300 PSI and it did a fantastic job. A tad slower than you, but not that much
@@kailuafrog me too
Good job man nevermind all these haters IMO your good at what you do buddy and you have actually improved myself as a painter.. Good job
Do you stain right after you pressure wash it or do you wait for it to dry ?
You have to wait it says in whatever stain you buy in the back of the can.
Hey The Idaho Painter! I have a few questions about this. 1. Do I just use water through my pressure washer to wash my fence or should i use a chemical mix? 2. Do i need to sand down my fence before or after wash because it is a little rough, or will the power wash make it smooth?
Very detailed and thorough video. Appreciate you taking the time to share the entire process; super helpful.
Thank you! :)
i have a 2700PSI /2.4 GPM washer, how close do I need to be to strip the old wood off the fence
where can i buy that rotating nozzle from,Home Depot, im in Portland,OR? Thanks
Very good and informative video.
Thank you.
Thanks for watching Victor!
Really informative video, Thanks. Wondering what kind of sprayer and the wand you are using in this video and if I can I rent at HD or Lowes?
Did he wait for the fence to dry did I miss it ? Is it safe to stain it right after ?
How much do you charge for a 6'x200' long fence ??? Do you calculate the inside and outside separately ???
thanks man! appreciate your effort
Before you turn on the power wash, shouldn't you keep your finger pressed down on the trigger so you don't pop a gasket then start it up? Keeping the throttle/choke turned down too?
Thought about staining mine by spraying, just concerns me about the overspray
Great info...and demonstration. Will apply to fence..when I get to it...plus wood deck, when I get to it...plus stripping old old paint off houses so I can prime and paint...gotta do that now...b/f they cancel the insurance. Demo and info reveals the 3000 PSI machine will do the job so I"l buy one of those machines (vs. $$s more for 4000 PSI).
When you spray doesn’t it go through the cracks to the neighbors side?
planning on doing.... when you were using the stain sprayer... do you need an air compressor?
fence looks sweet thanks for the tips
I'm a painter myself and you should do a light pressure wash with a bleach mixture to help kill and remove the mold. Most good power washing rigs have an intake and small hose to insert into a container of bleach for this reason. The power washer mixes it itself so it is effortless. Use a low pressure to fir this step.
***** We use a pump called a Juice Box. It comes with a 100' hose that you can use bleach water with. We used to use the pump sprayers, but with this it saves time. Time is $$$! I call it my Juice Box Hero. They cost a bit, but it will pay for itself! The only problems we had with it was the cheap plastic fittings. If you decide to get one change the fittings to brass, or galvie. They do break, and it sucks when you're at the jobsite then something breaks!
I know the power washers from Sherwin Williams had the honda motors and they had a PSI we used anywhere from 3000-3800 and we always were warned to not to pop the gasket so keep the finger down on the trigger then start it and turn on the water first. Don't dry run it
I've been looking at it
Good videos you have
Danny7618 Sometimes I tie a piece of rope on the trigger, and handle to purge it then I can do something besides standing there doing nothing. When you have 100' of hose, and 100' of P.W. line it takes awhile to purge. Another thing I was taught was to not run it for longer then 30 min. without using it, and try to not stop it too much. It wears the pump out faster! That pressure washer was probably over $2,000 at the S.W. dealer. We have a 3,800 P.S.I. at the shop that' not running. It's only 2 years old. I'll bet it was caused by a rookie that did what I just wrote NOT TO DO! You try to teach them the right way to do things, but they don't care. It's not their dime. They only care about who is texting them, or the money their making doing a crappy job that you have to fix to make them look like they did a good job. Then the boss is wondering why the job is taking so long! Last year if my boss would of hired one more good painter he wouldn't of had to pay for three guys who never picked up a brush in their life. Then he blames me for the job taking so long! Sorry for venting!
I like the tip on how to prime. Thx.
very nice job I would hire you if I needed something like this done.
Excellent vid and information. Thank you!
Your welcome🤙
An excellent job well done !! Beautiful !!! 😃 👍
were did you get this washer from wow that crazy how much better it looks
Your local hardware store
Nice,Thanks for video.
Nice job! 👍👍😎 Personally, I'd probably change that red post color for a darker shade of brown.
Same
Is this the same as soft washing and then using oxalic acid?
If not whts the difference
Also, I currently have a faded stain in my fence but don't know if oil or water based. I'd like to use water based for new stain.
Big thanks for the reply
Do I need to power wash a new cedar fence before I stain it? It's only about 2 months old.
Bryanna Heath no
Amazing job guys, looks great. To anyone wondering what PSI is actually required to strip a fence properly its 2.5Gal/min at 1600 PSI. Ijust stripped my fence, does it take longer? yes. but its doable.
Super helpful tips! Btw anyone else think he looks like John Cena? LOL I mean that as a compliment. :D
Excellent Job, you're a good!. I have a couple of questions: How long did you have to wait to paint that fence after power washing it? and How long would you wait after installing a new pine fence to paint it? Thank you.
A.C. Slater? We wrestled together at Bayside.
Great video. Do I need to paint on both sides of a fence?
You're the best of the best!
Use a variable power washer on lower setting in UK if you have the most common fences or you'll ruin the wood!
Thanks for sharing the tip Dave!
Good video sir, I might have to hit you up to do my fence.
Great video thanks ! Would this stripping with power washer damage my neighbours side of fence ? They just painted there fence last year.
What happened?
If you're using semi-transparent stain I recommend oil base. Water base stains are not as good as oil base stains period. The trouble is many oil based products are being taken off the market nowadays and depending where you live it might be hard to find any good semi-transparent or opaque oil base stains
Another thing is semi-transparent stains are thin enough to use a 2 /12 gallons pump sprayer to apply it on a fence. Much cheaper and much simpler to use and less back spray because it uses less pressure. Plus you can add thinner if it's too thick. You can also use a hot dog roller for catching any drips instead of using a brush.
Another thing you can do instead of using semi-transparent stain is to use linseed oil instead. It's what they use on the wooden stocks of expensive firearms. Not only is it all-natural, no chemicals, but it has a 75 year life expectancy. What linseed oil does is bring out the grain and makes it slightly darker so it looks like it was stained. All you're doing is using the natural color of the wood instead of trying to put an artificial color onto it. Linseed oil sinks in deeper than semi-transparent stains and lasts longer.
The proper mixture is 1/3rd to 1/2 thinner so it will soak into the wood deeper and dry faster. This way it should dry in 1-2 days. If you don't thin it, it will take a month to dry and you don't want that. The one drawback to using linseed oil is that it slowly gets darker with age. If you fill the pores of the wood so the linseed oil is sitting on top of the wood instead of inside it, in a hot sunny climate it can turn the wood black. Meaning you should not overload the wood with too much linseed oil
Linseed oil is also the best primer money can buy and at 12 dollars a gallon it is also the cheapest primer money can buy and the most natural non-toxic primer money can buy for outdoor wooden exteriors. Believe me, no primer on the market has a life expectancy of 75 years! The best way to prime a wood exterior is to give it two coats of 66% linseed oil mixed with 33% thinner and let it dry 2 days before applying the 2nd coat... Then putt 2 coats of oil base gloss straight over the linseed oil without any primer. You will be doing yourself out of repainting it for years, but your customers will be very satisfied with the longevity of the paint job. The bond between linseed oil and a good oil base exterior gloss is virtually unbreakable. It will never peel or chalk. It may crack with age. If you use latex exterior gloss instead of oil base you've virtually solved that possibility also. Latex gloss ext paints last longer and they don't darken or fade or lose their gloss as oil base glosses do, but they are not sandable, which is one main reason I don't like to use them . Oil bases may fade or crack after a number of years, but you can sand them down and repaint and the job will look much better. In the long term, Oil base glosses are better because you can feather the paint so you can't see where you sanded it. Latex paints tend to peel when sanded and keep on peeling no matter how much you you try to feather it out. Plus, if the original latex paint job is not done properly the whole thing can start peeling. Oil base paints have a much better bond than latex paints and are much less likely to peel. They also take less prep work to apply. Many latex glosses have to be primed first before you use them on any glossy surface. Not so with oil base glosses. Oil base glosses stick to almost anything without needing to prime or sand and they don't peel or come off.
*****
I learned about linseed oil from an old painter 55 years ago when I did my 1st paint job painting our summer cottage up north. The fact is, old technology is in many ways better than the new chemicals. Boiled Linseed oil is 100% organic. It doesn't pollute the environment. 70 years ago painters made their own paint by using linseed oil as a base. Once upon a time nearly all paint was linseed oil base.
Do a test with 2 pieces of wood. One with 2 coats of linseed oil as a primer, the other with your usual ext primer... then stick them outside in the sun and see which one lasts longer. In 5 years you'll see what I'm talking about... Look up the specs on linseed oil. Lots of companies do not recommend linseed oil as a primer because can't make money off it. If they tell you you shouldn't use linseed oil as a primer they're full of it. You can use linseed oil as a primer inside or outside. It will stick to anything: oil base or water base.. It just takes longer because you have to do at least 2 coats.
The real problem with using cheap. simple, organic products like linseed oil is selling the customer on it. If you tell your customer that using linseed oil as a primer, their exterior trim will last longer and that linseed oil is the only product on the market with a 75 year life expectancy and it's organic and non- polluting and costs only 12 dollars a gallon, many of them will let you use it. Or... you can just not tell them what kind of primer you're using if they're not interested. The thing is it takes a day to dry and then a 2nd coat and that has to dry one day too That's 3 days just for the priming. If you want a quality job and spend the extra time I guarantee it will last longer than any other primer on the market because linseed oil thinned by 1/3rd sinks deeper into the wood than anything else and bonds to paint better than anything else. You can also use it as an additive in oil base paints. It will slow down the drying time, But it will make for a better bond and the sheen will be shinier and it will last longer. All the stains used to be linseed oil base before the damn chemical companies started messing with the old formulas.
*****
Farmers used linseed oil on their plows and farm tools as a rust preventative for hundreds of years. That's another bonus: it prevents rusting. Remember Olympic Stain? That was before your time. They used to sell Olympic stain all over the USA and Canada. It was too good and too cheap so they came out with all kinds of expensive new chemicals in their stains to replace the linseed oil base and Olympic Stain Co. went out of business.
All those 500 yr-old old paintings you see at a museum were made with linseed oil. You figure if paint on a canvas can last for 500 years it might be worth using on a house but no: they can't make any money off it.
Take a look at the wood grain on the stocks of expensive rifles: They look beautiful because they've been rubbed with linseed oil. No stain, just pure 100% linseed oil.
*****
Unless you do a direct comparison that's just an opinion.
I've done direct comparisons for over 40 years now.
If you ever use linseed oil you'll find out what I say is true. If you don't you'll never find out.
*****
Go back to the job you used it on 5 years later and compare what the condition of the paint is like to a job you did 5 years ago with ordinary primer... That means you have to be painting for at least 5 years to do an honest comparison
*****
What was so horrible about it?
I've never had anything go wrong using linseed oil.
Great vid! Scanned to send my buddy a tutorial since he has a project and is to far away. Im sending this one and only watched a few minutes. Gotta get em estimates!
Since we're not close enough to be competitors... Just thought you might want to try a 512 since when there botched it turns into a 515-7 in general. As well as using a bad interior roller locked down by a screw/synched tape... to double team to one spraying while another back dragging. Third generation house painter and love swapping ideas with other companies. - Cheers man and Brandon says thanks in advance
Yup, your productive. Way to be on top of things. - Cheers
You don't have to wait for the fence to dry before applying the stain?
Hey Chris, any suggestions on good brands of stain and water guards??
Hey, thank you for being here with us! Due to the overwhelming amount of messages we get each day, we have created an amazing community through a private FaceBook group called Paint Life Mafia. Join us for private live shows and much more. Only members will be allowed to enter and interact in the group, creating a tighter knit community of painters. Each tier has different perks, depending on what you are looking for. Click here to learn more about this EXCLUSIVE group and join: facebook.com/groups/2305219262837596/
Special Thanks - Chris Berry, The Idaho Painter
@@Idahopainter And for those that don't use facebook? What stain/water proofer would you recommend? Have you ever used Sikkens Cetol DEK?