Thank you! Watching the video made me feel better. Those things are so hard to remove, I though for sure I was doing something wrong. Apparently, I was doing it right. I just need to be more patient!
All that work to remove and replace bushings in the flimsy OEM control arms that will crack if you drive hard or have any serious horsepower IS A COMPLETE WASTE OF TIME. Instead of doing that, buy some quality aftermarket arms such as Global West or Hotchkiss. they are way stronger and do not flex or crack like the OEM arms do. also, if you disconnect the shocks, the springs are relatively easy to remove. if you must retain the flimsy OEM arms, make a brace to stick between the sides of the arm when pressing the metal sleeve in to keep the arm from bending. I cut a front wheel drive wheel bearing outer race in half that was the perfect fit to the arm. but ultimately, after cracking and reinforcing the arms several times, I bought the Hotchkiss arms and they work great. I did notice a tremendous improvement in handling since the Hotchkiss arms don't flex even under hard cornering. looks like he did a good job welding a plate to the arms, but you definitely want to use the SS arms which have holes to attach a rear sway bar. I don't understand why anyone would not want to use a sway bar, unless they corner like a grandmother or enjoy the body flopping around while driving.
Nicely done, start to finish. Personal preference, but I've had better luck installing lower trailing arms on the axle first because some brackets have a slight taper to them. Using a block of wood to hammer on, I drive them in from the rear [not the bottom] - a piece of maple or other hardwood works wonders. Once a bolt is stabbed in, then drive the forward bushing upwards after positioning axle to suit. Put a bolt halfway in on the front bushing [axle side] to hold center, then stab the correct bolt from the frame side/drive out the one holding center and you're home free. Never skip the silicone grease [as you mention] or this job can be a pain and bushings start wearing prematurely..
Im.doing exactly all the same to my monte carlo 87 i did all my lower bushing tomorrow is my rear up bushing on the differential ...i did all the suspesion on the front all new bushings new lower upper control arms new shocks
Couldn't you heat it up with a torch and spray oil on it, so it comes out easier? Wouldn't i want to use a piece of steel instead of wood. So I can pound it in without damaging the flange? Is this a high performance kit ? Did you paint them to look rust color? I usually wire brush stuff and paint it, so it looks nice Thanks for your videos and hard work Its harder to put the front in last because you have to fight against the weight of the axle. Lol! BOOM How many days before BOOM? Your videos is the best! Its so funny! Do you ever get to drive your car or does it always sit in your garage being repaired?
7years and still helping out thanks man great vid
Remove the wheels and unbolt the shock. The axle will drop enough to remove the spring. Do not need to unbolt the control arms to remove the springs.
my dad told me this when i was taking mine off and it was way easier
I’m doing this on my 69 chevelle, thanks for the tips.
Getting ready to do all this on my 71 lemans . I bought the bmr tubular rear control arms
I'm fixing to do the exact same thing to my 72 Lemans, with the BMR control arms.
Screw it, I'm going with the red ones. LOL
Thank you! Watching the video made me feel better. Those things are so hard to remove, I though for sure I was doing something wrong. Apparently, I was doing it right. I just need to be more patient!
All that work to remove and replace bushings in the flimsy OEM control arms that will crack if you drive hard or have any serious horsepower IS A COMPLETE WASTE OF TIME. Instead of doing that, buy some quality aftermarket arms such as Global West or Hotchkiss. they are way stronger and do not flex or crack like the OEM arms do. also, if you disconnect the shocks, the springs are relatively easy to remove. if you must retain the flimsy OEM arms, make a brace to stick between the sides of the arm when pressing the metal sleeve in to keep the arm from bending. I cut a front wheel drive wheel bearing outer race in half that was the perfect fit to the arm. but ultimately, after cracking and reinforcing the arms several times, I bought the Hotchkiss arms and they work great. I did notice a tremendous improvement in handling since the Hotchkiss arms don't flex even under hard cornering. looks like he did a good job welding a plate to the arms, but you definitely want to use the SS arms which have holes to attach a rear sway bar. I don't understand why anyone would not want to use a sway bar, unless they corner like a grandmother or enjoy the body flopping around while driving.
Nicely done, start to finish. Personal preference, but I've had better luck installing lower trailing arms on the axle first because some brackets have a slight taper to them. Using a block of wood to hammer on, I drive them in from the rear [not the bottom] - a piece of maple or other hardwood works wonders. Once a bolt is stabbed in, then drive the forward bushing upwards after positioning axle to suit. Put a bolt halfway in on the front bushing [axle side] to hold center, then stab the correct bolt from the frame side/drive out the one holding center and you're home free. Never skip the silicone grease [as you mention] or this job can be a pain and bushings start wearing prematurely..
Im.doing exactly all the same to my monte carlo 87 i did all my lower bushing tomorrow is my rear up bushing on the differential ...i did all the suspesion on the front all new bushings new lower upper control arms new shocks
Thank you sir!
nice video ,good explained job
Couldn't you heat it up with a torch and spray oil on it, so it comes out easier?
Wouldn't i want to use a piece of steel instead of wood. So I can pound it in without damaging the flange?
Is this a high performance kit ?
Did you paint them to look rust color?
I usually wire brush stuff and paint it, so it looks nice
Thanks for your videos and hard work
Its harder to put the front in last because you have to fight against the weight of the axle.
Lol! BOOM
How many days before BOOM?
Your videos is the best! Its so funny! Do you ever get to drive your car or does it always sit in your garage being repaired?
Where did you get the bushings sleeves from?
They came with the kit I bought from energy suspension.
So all of the bushings were the same size?
It's been awhile but I believe they were all the same size.
so how did it feel after driving it? what did you notice improved?
My old bushing were really worn out so I have noticed a big improvement. The back end is much more stable and it helped with wheel hop.
You could probably loosen the rear bolts on the lower before you even jack it up. Thanks for the vid!
You should have just pulled the whole rear end out then you could get to all of it and clean that up
Use a hack saw…. Immediately switches to reciprocating saw lol
Just use a carbide hole-saw. 15 bucks.
Should have painted them up first
yes, I should have.