As you can see I commented on this vid 5 years ago! I put powerflex bushes on my transporter t5 and it had done just as you have showed, I had the subframe out to do the gearbox and the lower arms didn’t move they were solid and extremely hard to move and that was just dangling on the frame off of the van. So wish I brought the super pro, I can see the powerflex bushes have grown past the crush tubes and rub on the frame 🤬🤬🤬
Thanks so much for this video. I had actually bought a Powerflex set for my mk3 MR2 and was looking for guidance videos prior to fitting them. They went straight back in the post after watching this! My SuperPro set have now been on the car 18months or so and are fantastic. I recommend SuperPro and link your vid to everyone who asks about bushes.
I still had my LCAs off the car so i just had to hammer out the junk bushings and replace them with Super Pro, I swapped them out Sunday. I had to cut the Super Pro bushings a little shorter than they were but they worked great after that. Thanks alot man, i'm really glad you made this video, definitely great information that everybody needs to know.
I paint the bush face, inside, outside, and even the sleeve with anti-sieze. Two benefits, longer lasting than the clear snot slickening agent, and no more siezed crush tube to the bolt itself. No grease needed. Works flawlessly for 10+ years now. And most importantly, no poly bush squeaking!
Thanks for the video. I have tried 2 brands of PU bushes and so far Superpro are holding up and performing better than other brand in the one application that is a direct comparison. Superpro is more expensive but based on the failures I got they may have been cheaper in the long run. Also keep in mind that any bushings are most likely better than your worn out ones at first but the real test is how long can they keep their performance up. The firm ones might be useful if you have a track car but for most people that is not needed or wise.
Well said! You still want the suspension to move on a track car. No suspension movement = no damper movement = no damping. You'll get a lot of vibration around steady state which may seem fast but not efficient (less grip).
I use Poly bushings very often. Mostly in places where there isn't a lot of movement, such as motor mounts, subframe bushings, transmission mount, subframe kicker braces, and on so. I will also use them in Sway bar bushings and end links. I will generally use stock bushings in control arms, and leaf springs, unless it is for racing where a stiffer suspension is needed.
Im on the process of buying that whole kit for a lifted off roading truck ,but no wanting the outcome to be noisy or stiffer ride what you recommend me ?
The algorithm popped this up for me, great. I have a vanagon and was thinking about ureathane control arm bushings, thanks for the education on the details - one pc vs split, bearing vs material tolerance, conical vs flat shape, and material. Once I get some miles on this 18 month project, I will remember this.
I am in the process of making adj. control arms for an LS swap Miata and decided to make my own bushings. I had installed Prothane bushings on another MX5 and couldn't believe the fit on the sleeves. Using 5/8" ID sleeves on a 14mm bolt is crap. Your video explained how the bushing are supposed to work. Just never thought about it before. Just installed them. I will be using the oem sleeves after I burn them out of the control arms. When I saw how Super Pro tapers the ends so that it has less surface friction, a light bulb went off and they all made sense. Thanks
Russ Charlton Hats off to you if you're making your own! I've machined PU for R&D and it takes some time. Don't forget to add knurling inside otherwise you'll end up a wishbone that has a lot of stiction. Also, consider the PU you're going to use. SP have developed theirs so it has resilient properties which are crucial for proper performance and longevity. You can actually buy SuperPro is short rod sections in 80Duro which the MX-5 uses. HTH Phil
I noticed the same (lack of grease) when I installed my nolathane bushes in my "99" GU Patrol so I cut a heap of groves with a hacksaw blade in them (about 1mm deep) to keep some of the grease in place....didn't think of the ends of the bushes grabbing...I'll be checking them soon....
I am saddened that car manufacturers (and others) make lousy bushings that can't hold the grease in to make more short-term money! Outstanding analysis sir!
The car manufacturers typically use bonded rubber which has the compliance to do the job, lower NVH and have a long service life (sometimes they get this part a bit wrong). Other part sof the car require rubber if they move dynamically. I see a lot of issues with people using poly bushings where the rotation isn't linear. Spherical would be ideal in those applications, but then you increase cost and lower service life so rubber is again optimal for 99.5% of your customers (though Mazda got pretty wild with the 3rd gen RX7 having 6 sphericals that were a 30k mile service item at several hundred dollars in parts). It's a shame how SuperPro has such a limited catalog because it seems to be the only poly bushing that I would consider. A neat trick that I saw over on StudioVRM.Racing's channel was putting teflon tape around a clean crush tube in a single candy cane fashion and then applying grease and installing it into the bushing. Another option that I saw on some American company's RUclips was a polyurethane swaybar bushing that has a Delrin insert that sits between the polyurethane and the swaybar. Unfortunately, I think they produced imperial sizes but a bit of mini lathe work could make some solutions.
Thanks a lot :) awesome video lots of information, in regards for 00 vw jetta getting the same squeaky noises on dips and speed bumps sucks. Looks like this is a confirmation and needs replacing. I've just replaced the struts and shocks.. It was much needed, but I am still not satisfied with the suspension ride.. control and cornering..
very informative. I've come across problems on my 200 sx s14a that relate perfectly with what you have described. when I restore I will probably replace with the super pro bushes
thanks for the video m8.. very good. I learned a lot. Yes the poorly designed bushes will clearly give shit performance. I agree. OEM bushes are rubber.. very pliable and properly reduce drivetrain noise.. but also built to a price and cut out way too early. Thanks to you I now know how properly engineered Nolathane bushes are better.. and why. The key words are "PROPERLY DESIGNED". You get what you pay for
I used to, but not anymore I'm afraid. I designed a multi-regressive valve that had 4 separate tuning zones for both bump and rebound, but never got them to market. Maybe I should call Lotus!
@@SportDriveSuspension I was about to fit power flex to my Aston Martin DB9 ! If it started squeaking like that I would take it to a breaker yard , doesn’t seem like superpro make bushes for Astons which have a tendency to chop out every 35k miles which you have to buy the complete wishbone £3500 for a complete job. They are missing a lot of business there. Cheers
Powerflex are the only option for my vehicle as super-pro dont make bushes for my vehicle. My only option would be to modify the powerflex bushings. Whats the best method to take material from the face of the bush to bring it inline with the crush tube? Do champhered edges/ having a crush tube that extends slightly beyond the bush face create fore and aft movement in the control arm? I wont be able to create diamond shaped knurling on the inside of the bush but would cutting staight lines avhieve a similar effect?
Fascinating. Have I understood this correctly? [I have never given any thought to the bushes in my car - let alone changed one]. The up and down motion of the forked arm was being inhibited by friction between the rubber bushes and the housing. This friction is undesirable in the current application. The bushes which were removed had been installed from new by the manufacturer. The manufacturer's grease was long gone, and the unwanted friction was exacerbated by the rubber bush presenting a large flat area to be squeezed against the large flat mating surface of the housing. The design of the new (blue) bushes overcomes these disadvantages and still remains flexible and soft. The usual recommendation (to fit bushes made from harder material), does not even address the problems it is intended to deal with. Had Mazda (or whoever) given this matter no thought?
It's down to a few things. Certainly cost andNVH (rubber is certainly considered better) feature highly. You want the arm to articulate 'friction-free' around the pivot point, but resist lateral loading to help maintain alignment under load. Does one care about NVH/extra maintenance on a 'track car'? Probably not, so fit spherical bearings if you can afford it.
just had a 40mm suspension lift on my 04 Hilux…the installer recommended Superpro…cost was a bit more but boy am i pleased i spent the extra money…my advice…do it!
Thank for the very informative video. But you didn't show the Powerflex Bushing reinstalled with any packing grease to see an accurate comparisons. The Powerflex should be pack with liberal amounts of "synthetic" packing grease. Synthetic packing grease can maintain a lube surface of 1/1000 of an inch and will not wash out. The larger problem with any bearing is the quality of the center bearing metal, because oxidation due to cheap metal will annihilate any assembly.
Thank you! If you watch from 5m38s, I investigate the difference between SuperPro's knurling compared to the Powerflex's smooth bore. You'll notice when both are packed with grease, the Powerflex bush was wiped clean once the crush tube is inserted. Remember, that when the bush is installed into the wishbone housing, the bearing clearance is even tighter and no noticible amount of any grease would remain. If you stop the video at 7m28s, you'll notice some 'damage' inside the Powerflex bush. This is because it's been running dry (even though it was originally installed with their recommended grease) and heated due to excessive friction. The bush is sees constant loadings/unloadings, and this will eject any grease quite quickly. I agree with you regarding the metal crush tube needs to remaining corrosion free. I like the fact Powerflex use stainless steel here, and I would like to see SuperPro do the same. I believe that the issue with SuperPro is small though, due to it running in a permanently greased environment.
Why do you say that might be a bit of a challenge to get that torque wrench in there with the tire and wheel right in the way. And they dang sure didnt do that on the assembly line when the car was built. That would be like torquing the head bolts while the engine is running
That's true of rubber bushings, but these are technically bearings and therefore does not apply. You can bolt up and rotate it's full range of motion with little effort.
Cause I have installed yesterday Powerflex bushes on my Astra H OPC/VXR at the rear axle bushes. They also have hab this hexagon thing inside the hole but not the cones on the outside of the bush. At the front axle I have mount Superpro bushes. Unfortunately Superpro didn’t produce rear axle bushes for my car.
Long term R&D is the key, as well as understanding the FULL design brief and then designing from there. I see it all the time, whereby suspension 'upgrades' limit the movement of the suspension components; think stiff springs and ARBs and dampers that have travel shortened by a third. A great idea to make the car feel faster in the corner, but in reality it isn't.
Strange how your powerflex didn't have the crisscross inside them because mine did, also if you had added a washer to the end of the insert it would have made it run free, looks like the insert on yours id a little short, trapping the polly bush, mine work great......you must have had really old stock on your car.
They may do now, but these generation didn't. If you study your competition you might learn something 😉 The main issue was the poly was Hygroscopic and swelled in size over time.
When these were first fitted, no they didn't squeak. Over time though (c.4-5 years) some of the bushes absorbed moisture and expanded which lead to us investigating them fully (the worst culprit was the front lower bush that, when parked on the customers' drive, was in a damper environment being up against a wall). This isn't a biased video, IMO. I have an open mind on most things but it really shows how a product performs over a length of time (to be fair to PowerFlex I don't know whether they have changed their compound since these were made; they may have done). There are some clear advantages of SuperPro though, putting aside the squeaking bushes. If you look at 5min38sec, you can see how the knurling makes the SuperPro bush have far less friction. If you pause at the close up of the internal shot of the PF bush, you may be able to see some friction 'burns' due to the fact that the bush is essentially running dry. I also need a lot less force to push the SuperPro bush down the crush tube at 8mins onward. Remember, once these bushes are installed they are a little tighter around the crush tube which will exacerbate any friction issues. I like that PF use stainless crush tubes vs. the coated steel on SuperPro. With their new silicon based grease, there shouldn't be an issue with corrosion as the tube will be running lubricated all the time. I hope that's answered your question.
Rubber control arm bushings use their rotational flex to rotate , poly bushings use the center pin as some kind of bearing. I think poly bushings are best in apllications were no rotational movement is needed
It is important to grease these kinds of bushings to prevent the issues addressed. You could always go oem and just replace them after they break in about a year.
Hi there, Thanks for this good piece of info. I am looking to change my Jetta 2013 suspensions and the same time I think it's a good time to replace some of its bushes. There's a problem though with the expenditure locked in with the struts and shocks, I find myself on a tight budget. I know super pros are pretty good if not the best and yes there are expensive for a good reason too. I therefore have to do this by stages won't be able to change all of them, could you kindly recommend which bushes to change that would immediately make an impact. Thank you very much
I would tend to make the back better than the front first. The last think you want is a stiff front end and sloppy arse (snap-oversteer). I'm sure there's a double entendre in there somewhere.....😜
great video but i wanna know whats the best bushing kit out there for my 01 gsr integra. i dont want something to stiff anddeff not squeak. im about to put some buddy club coil overs and i hear poly bushings are bad and squeak .. is hard race the best brand ?.. please tell me your opinion on whats best for my car... i hate to spend 3000$ on a suspension system that sucks and make noise...
just watching your video and am at the knurling bit. I am thinking, not knowing anything about bushes that over time will this knurling wear away with rotation and lead to movement. this is why I would say powerflex has there's flat. with weight on the bush what stops the knurled face getting squashed flat anyway its so thin. good vid tho so far. was thinking of putting powerflex full kit on my t5 transporter. so any help appreciated thanks
May I make a comment, please read the instructions that come with the Powerflex bushes and watch some of the various video 's the company has on RUclips , they explain quire clearly the correct method of installation and the difference in their operation because of the bush material.
I'm looking for something better then OEM but I don't want to feel every crack or peace of gravel in the road, I'd like better handling but not at the expense of feeling every thing up my spine. Do you think super pro will do what I need?
They will indeed. To reduce NVH you need to have isolating properties and in a suspension linkage that requires movement. The SuperPro bushes not only allow free rotation but the will also move as the suspension loads. The performance comes from the way they load and unload in a linear and damped manner. Phil
Thank you for this video, I learned something about poly bushes and what to get, good thing I didnt place an order from powerflex yet Id get the ones from strongfle instead as they have the same conical design
Polyurethane works as a bushing, the OEM rubber parts are the first point of call for suspension action which is critical for a smooth ride. In effect by using polyurethane bushings you are removing one element of a cars suspension. OK for the track but way less good for the road.
@@Dr.IanPlect Poly for road cars ain't good They don't absorb road shocks.There is a reason for rubber OEM bushes.Competition cars yes , road cars no. If it quacks like a duck.
@@Dr.IanPlect Feel free to. Poly is not good for older cars, makes them squeak like shit as they transfer forces through their aging bodies. Again for track use only.
The area on the end of the bush has no effect on how much force it takes to rotate the arm. The clamp load shared by the PU is distributed throughout whatever size area. The force you are experiencing has been determined by the coefficient of friction of the materials in the interface.
I think it's just attention to detail rather than having material spilling out over the bearing surface. A bit like going to the beach un-shaved. Doesn't make a difference, but there's a neater, more attractive solution 🤣
Any experience with Prothane? They have channeling in the middle to retain grease and I'm using Mobil 1 Synth grease which is supposed to do a really good job
I don't I'm afraid. However, the channel you describe is called a bullet groove which runs the length of the bushing. As the suspension components load and unload the bushings will move (compress) and this action will deform the groove and you will find any grease gets ejected from the ends over time. In other words, it's a useless design to retain grease, but very cheap to manufacture as it can be created with the initial casting! A knurl on the other hand has to be cut in a second operation. HTH
Very useful video thanks!! i have now had my superpor bushes on my car for about a year and the wishbones are next to impossible to move now, Would you say i need to take them off a regrease it all? if so would grease would you recomend? Many thanks Matt
Project Miata Matt. I'm sorry to hear that; clearly something is not right. Can you tell me what grease you used? The older type was in a flat clear plastic wrapper and dried to leave to dry lubricant and was not up to the job. The new silicon stuff (in a silver tube) remains fluid. Let me have some further information and I'll point you in the right direction. Ta Phil
hi phil, thanks very much for the reply, it came with the stuff in a metalic wrapper. i used plenty of it but guess it has dried out, is there a good type of grease to use when relubing them all? i presume im going to have to remove them all again, i had to use a jack to get them to move up and down, they dont squeek at all just hardly move, rather frustrating after all the money spent, i couldnt find standard replacements anywhere . kind of wish i left it alone now but my oem ones had had it Thanks again Matt
Either the quality is bad or they never greased them like they were supposed to. That's why most people install zerk grease fittings when going poly so they can easily lube them.
Well done, thank you. The problem with poly bushings, regardless of brand, is that they last only so long before they harden and stop taking back their shape after deforming. The best alternative, to me anyways, is to install spherical bearings. They allow the suspension to move in the axis it was intended to and that's it. No more maintenance or harsh ride than a poly bush. Unfortunately, they are not available for all cars, and may have to be made to suit.
Actually, one thing about SuperPro bushings is that they don't deteriorate. I have bushings that have sat in a damp shed for 10 years and they are still compliant as new!
That's good. The problem I had with poly was cause of heat. Probably when they were loaded and deformed when hot, after a while they would not come back.
26 minutes of useful and direct information with visual examples. I'll take 26 minutes of that, over the usual youtube video which consists of an 8 minute dubstep intro, followed by 30 seconds of time lapsed un-lit cell phone footage with no audio.
I'm sure he could talk for many hours including a road test and noise/vibration drive. Personally i think it was perfectly fine. - it also shows you get what you pay for, and shows you what to expect from a good product. - 30 minutes isnt a long time
Your old bushes were made of two pieces, but how do you install a Superpro bush when it's a one piece design? That would have been a nice addition to the video. 👍
@@SportDriveSuspension Thanks. But I did all of my LS400 four corners already in the spring and the bushes were "split" design ones. So no problem at all.
@@SportDriveSuspension Can you elaborate on that. The bushes I used were for front and rear sway bars. I don't think they are available in any other type than split. You are possibly talking about bushes for the suspension joints?
Have you removed the tube? The tube is inserted once the bushing is installed. You have to use a vice for the lower ones. Grease the end to help. You kinda have to grab the arm and bushing as you wind in the vice to keep it centred. A bit tricky, but straightforward once you get the first one done. 👍🏻
@@SportDriveSuspension I have the NC Bushings and they just bunch up before they go into the A-arm due to the significant lip on the end. I have changed out NA bushings with no issue. If I could post pictures I could show you the problems.
could the powerflex bushes of been over tightened causing that much difficulty in movement? I've no affiliation to any company but looking to poly bushes my whole car. Looked at Duraflex but heard they're not good again the same with Floflex and Powerflex are ridiculously expensive not with standing they don't cover the whole car range! I'm looking for a specific colour of bushes too being green. Any advice?
daniel0663 Well it's not for track use. It's on a Ford Mondeo MK3 ST220 and i was going to use the adjustable lower arm bushings that can be adjusted for correct tracking. Mainly everyday road use - club meets etc. I know the rear arm bushings need changing and the fronts - i want to get a firmer ride without compromising comfort and more noise. That's why i have been looking at links and videos to gain more insight as to which is best. It seems Superflex are superior from your video but the price will be high for sure. Maybe I'll just need to poly certain bushings?
There is no room to do that. However, all that needed done was to clean corrosion off and grease the mounting points the same as he did with the replacement bushings. In other words the only problem was a piss poor installation of the prior bushings. NO new bushings were needed nor did they have any benefit. He just needed a piece of sandpaper and a couple ounces of silicone grease.
We realised that the bushes had absorbed a lot of moisture over time which exacerbated the problem. So it's not only the initial fit that matters, but the composition of the material. I haven't found any other brand that comes close to SuperPro yet!
@@SportDriveSuspension I have a Volvo s60r . And the thing is very loose with factory bushes. Looking to try sharpen it up and give it a more responsive and direct drive
Good interesting video, in my personal opinion, I recon all poly bushes for everyday road use are a waste of money because if you replace worn ones with rubber chances are you would have sold the car by the time they fail again years later. I recon rubber will absorb noise etc better, which is priceless because having a harsh ride is real annoying. For the track though, they are probably worth fitting.I have just replaced 12 at the front and 6 at the rear of my Alfa, with standard rubber bushes and it has tightened the handling up massively it's like a new car. I would be very unhappy if I had gone to the trouble and expense of fitting poly bushes, only to have sacrificed ride comfort for slightly tighter handling.
That's correct. The crush tube is always going to be the correct length as it has to fit inside a rigid housing. The material has absorbed a load of moisture and swelled.
You shouldn't need to do them every year. A quick test without a damper unit would tell you whether or not they needed done. You would need to remove tbe wishbone and crush tube. However, this could be done if you're looking to have the suspension realigned.
I have the energy suspension bushings in my truck and the squeak all the time. They are extremely annoying. Im going to have to add grease fittings so I can service them without removing them.
You'll be greasing them constantly as there's no void for the grease to be retained in. As quick as you'll add the grease, it'll come out. It might stop squeaking for a bit, but don't expect a miracle. Phil
Holy shit... You sir are a badass. Awesome information, I am going to remove my LCA bushings i just installed on my LCA's for my 240sx and replace them. Thank You!
I've got a Ford Focus mk2 & tryed PSB bushes on the front track control arms and the left one rear bush virtually fell out of the bracket fortunately it got jammed on part of the floor of the car so didn't come out completely but just goes to show best to buy quality and get it right first time, so replaced both sides those bushes with genuine powerflex purple series shaped like a top hat so they can't escape out the back, problem solved and moves smoothly
Where in the World are you? Did you powder coat the inside of the housings as that will grow the bush. You can send me an email to info at sportdrive dot technology
Most of that was underseal that was flaking off. Inside the housing it is recommended that you clean and prepare the surface thoroughly and finish with a thin coat of something like POR15. After that everything is liberally greased with the grease supplied by SuperPro.
great content. you forgot to mention that superpro cost 4x more than powerflex. but you certainly get what you pay for. on the other hand, for those with tools, skills & motivation, less well engineered bushings can be modded.
I don't have any experience with ProThane I'm afraid. But look out for engineering cues and search for longevity reviews on Forums (squeaking/binding etc.).
Absolutely not! Copper grease is not a grease for rotary or sliding lubrication; it's a general anti seize compound. SP supply their own silicon waterproof grease and you should only use this with their bushings.
I know, and that's the problem; trying to clear your way through all the crap out there. Copper grease is not a grease for moving parts. The grease element is just a medium for applying the active ingredients which is anti seize for things like bolts (especially those that see temperature). If you use copper grease on brake caliper sliders for example, in a very short amount of time the grease melts away and you're left with seized slider pins and a failing caliper. Very dangerous, but commonly used by numpty mechanics.
I purchased Powerflex ARB bushings for my MR2 MK2' they didn't fit! Really shocked at the poor quality of Powerflex, although the more expensive black series looks better. I would go for the superior but they don't make it easy to match your requirements like the powerflex site, with diagrams to make it easy to choose...
The reason I looked at the bushings again was one of the rear sets was black series. They are just hard plastic from what I can gather. The center hole had elongated as the bush had loaded and unloaded. You could toe the wheel in and out by hand! I would go anywhere near black series bushings.
As you can see I commented on this vid 5 years ago! I put powerflex bushes on my transporter t5 and it had done just as you have showed, I had the subframe out to do the gearbox and the lower arms didn’t move they were solid and extremely hard to move and that was just dangling on the frame off of the van. So wish I brought the super pro, I can see the powerflex bushes have grown past the crush tubes and rub on the frame 🤬🤬🤬
I was going to say 'that was bad luck', but I'm afraid I can't say that with integrity.
Very informative and well explained. Thank you,great advice from someone who clearly knows what he is talking about.
Appreciated!
This was a super presentation on how big a difference there is between Powerflex and Super Pro. Thanks a lot
No problem; I'm glad it was useful. Phil
Thanks so much for this video. I had actually bought a Powerflex set for my mk3 MR2 and was looking for guidance videos prior to fitting them. They went straight back in the post after watching this! My SuperPro set have now been on the car 18months or so and are fantastic. I recommend SuperPro and link your vid to everyone who asks about bushes.
That's very kind John, thank you.
I still had my LCAs off the car so i just had to hammer out the junk bushings and replace them with Super Pro, I swapped them out Sunday. I had to cut the Super Pro bushings a little shorter than they were but they worked great after that. Thanks alot man, i'm really glad you made this video, definitely great information that everybody needs to know.
I know 9 years is a long shot…
But how did you get on with the SuperPro?
Thanks for taking the time to make the video. A very clear un-biased review!
Great video. Very informative and easy to understand. Nothing like great visuals and side by side comparisons. Keep up the good work!
I paint the bush face, inside, outside, and even the sleeve with anti-sieze. Two benefits, longer lasting than the clear snot slickening agent, and no more siezed crush tube to the bolt itself. No grease needed. Works flawlessly for 10+ years now. And most importantly, no poly bush squeaking!
Thanks for the video. I have tried 2 brands of PU bushes and so far Superpro are holding up and performing better than other brand in the one application that is a direct comparison. Superpro is more expensive but based on the failures I got they may have been cheaper in the long run. Also keep in mind that any bushings are most likely better than your worn out ones at first but the real test is how long can they keep their performance up. The firm ones might be useful if you have a track car but for most people that is not needed or wise.
Well said! You still want the suspension to move on a track car. No suspension movement = no damper movement = no damping. You'll get a lot of vibration around steady state which may seem fast but not efficient (less grip).
I use Poly bushings very often. Mostly in places where there isn't a lot of movement, such as motor mounts, subframe bushings, transmission mount, subframe kicker braces, and on so. I will also use them in Sway bar bushings and end links. I will generally use stock bushings in control arms, and leaf springs, unless it is for racing where a stiffer suspension is needed.
Im on the process of buying that whole kit for a lifted off roading truck ,but no wanting the outcome to be noisy or stiffer ride what you recommend me ?
The algorithm popped this up for me, great. I have a vanagon and was thinking about ureathane control arm bushings, thanks for the education on the details - one pc vs split, bearing vs material tolerance, conical vs flat shape, and material. Once I get some miles on this 18 month project, I will remember this.
No problem. It's about the engineering as much as the material.
This is the best polybush video I've seen. Great information.
Thank you!
I am in the process of making adj. control arms for an LS swap Miata and decided to make my own bushings.
I had installed Prothane bushings on another MX5 and couldn't believe the fit on the sleeves. Using 5/8" ID sleeves on a 14mm bolt is crap.
Your video explained how the bushing are supposed to work. Just never thought about it before. Just installed them.
I will be using the oem sleeves after I burn them out of the control arms. When I saw how Super Pro tapers the ends so that it has less surface friction, a light bulb went off and they all made sense. Thanks
Russ Charlton Hats off to you if you're making your own! I've machined PU for R&D and it takes some time.
Don't forget to add knurling inside otherwise you'll end up a wishbone that has a lot of stiction. Also, consider the PU you're going to use. SP have developed theirs so it has resilient properties which are crucial for proper performance and longevity. You can actually buy SuperPro is short rod sections in 80Duro which the MX-5 uses.
HTH
Phil
first video that show the actual flexing of theese bushings, i was worried they was too rigid.
Thank you for making this video. It was informative and in-depth regarding best designs available and why. Will utilize it for my purchasing decision.
I noticed the same (lack of grease) when I installed my nolathane bushes in my "99" GU Patrol so I cut a heap of groves with a hacksaw blade in them (about 1mm deep) to keep some of the grease in place....didn't think of the ends of the bushes grabbing...I'll be checking them soon....
Great video describing and demonstrating the differences. Just looking for advice on fitting new bushes. Glad I've bought SuperPro!
Thanks Jerry!
Excellent vid which clearly shows the issues at hand.
Thank you!
I am saddened that car manufacturers (and others) make lousy bushings that can't hold the grease in to make more short-term money! Outstanding analysis sir!
I think it's more about not having the right people in said Company who understand the design principles.
The car manufacturers typically use bonded rubber which has the compliance to do the job, lower NVH and have a long service life (sometimes they get this part a bit wrong). Other part sof the car require rubber if they move dynamically. I see a lot of issues with people using poly bushings where the rotation isn't linear. Spherical would be ideal in those applications, but then you increase cost and lower service life so rubber is again optimal for 99.5% of your customers (though Mazda got pretty wild with the 3rd gen RX7 having 6 sphericals that were a 30k mile service item at several hundred dollars in parts). It's a shame how SuperPro has such a limited catalog because it seems to be the only poly bushing that I would consider.
A neat trick that I saw over on StudioVRM.Racing's channel was putting teflon tape around a clean crush tube in a single candy cane fashion and then applying grease and installing it into the bushing. Another option that I saw on some American company's RUclips was a polyurethane swaybar bushing that has a Delrin insert that sits between the polyurethane and the swaybar. Unfortunately, I think they produced imperial sizes but a bit of mini lathe work could make some solutions.
Great video man! Was about to change my OEM'S to Powerflex, but Super Pro it is!
I was hoping in my mind someone show me on suspension bushing and fitting, choosing, there it is.....thanks mate.
Thanks a lot :) awesome video lots of information, in regards for 00 vw jetta getting the same squeaky noises on dips and speed bumps sucks. Looks like this is a confirmation and needs replacing. I've just replaced the struts and shocks.. It was much needed, but I am still not satisfied with the suspension ride.. control and cornering..
i want to use poly on my jeep SRT front lower control arms but i have doubts.
What doubts do you have? My concern would be replacing a small amount of bushings and leaving the rest stock, however I am not familiar with the SRT.
Great video.
Huge thanks for explaining it all!
No problem!
Great video. Very informative and I have made my mind up to fit SuperPro to my discovery.
Thank you.
👍🏻👍🏻 Thanks!
very informative. I've come across problems on my 200 sx s14a that relate perfectly with what you have described. when I restore I will probably replace with the super pro bushes
thanks for the video m8.. very good. I learned a lot. Yes the poorly designed bushes will clearly give shit performance. I agree. OEM bushes are rubber.. very pliable and properly reduce drivetrain noise.. but also built to a price and cut out way too early. Thanks to you I now know how properly engineered Nolathane bushes are better.. and why. The key words are "PROPERLY DESIGNED". You get what you pay for
cheers , great video , do you have a workshop , suspension business ?
I used to, but not anymore I'm afraid. I designed a multi-regressive valve that had 4 separate tuning zones for both bump and rebound, but never got them to market.
Maybe I should call Lotus!
@@SportDriveSuspension I was about to fit power flex to my Aston Martin DB9 ! If it started squeaking like that I would take it to a breaker yard , doesn’t seem like superpro make bushes for Astons which have a tendency to chop out every 35k miles which you have to buy the complete wishbone £3500 for a complete job. They are missing a lot of business there. Cheers
@@ckjlgp It might be a good idea to call SuperPro. The UK base is near Yeovil; Richard was the main chap there.
Great video, very professional!
Powerflex are the only option for my vehicle as super-pro dont make bushes for my vehicle. My only option would be to modify the powerflex bushings.
Whats the best method to take material from the face of the bush to bring it inline with the crush tube? Do champhered edges/ having a crush tube that extends slightly beyond the bush face create fore and aft movement in the control arm?
I wont be able to create diamond shaped knurling on the inside of the bush but would cutting staight lines avhieve a similar effect?
Fascinating.
Have I understood this correctly?
[I have never given any thought to the bushes in my car - let alone changed one].
The up and down motion of the forked arm was being inhibited by friction between the rubber bushes and the housing.
This friction is undesirable in the current application.
The bushes which were removed had been installed from new by the manufacturer.
The manufacturer's grease was long gone, and the unwanted friction was exacerbated by the rubber bush presenting a large flat area to be squeezed against the large flat mating surface of the housing.
The design of the new (blue) bushes overcomes these disadvantages and still remains flexible and soft. The usual recommendation (to fit bushes made from harder material), does not even address the problems it is intended to deal with.
Had Mazda (or whoever) given this matter no thought?
It's down to a few things. Certainly cost andNVH (rubber is certainly considered better) feature highly.
You want the arm to articulate 'friction-free' around the pivot point, but resist lateral loading to help maintain alignment under load.
Does one care about NVH/extra maintenance on a 'track car'? Probably not, so fit spherical bearings if you can afford it.
Could you just of cut a little off both sides of the bushing to allow only the metal crush tube to connect
just had a 40mm suspension lift on my 04 Hilux…the installer recommended Superpro…cost was a bit more but boy am i pleased i spent the extra money…my advice…do it!
No problem 👍🏻
Where you go man? Was looking forward to more videos from you.
Really informative video! Thank you for making this
Thank for the very informative video. But you didn't show the Powerflex Bushing reinstalled with any packing grease to see an accurate comparisons.
The Powerflex should be pack with liberal amounts of "synthetic" packing grease. Synthetic packing grease can maintain a lube surface of 1/1000 of an inch and will not wash out.
The larger problem with any bearing is the quality of the center bearing metal, because oxidation due to cheap metal will annihilate any assembly.
Thank you!
If you watch from 5m38s, I investigate the difference between SuperPro's knurling compared to the Powerflex's smooth bore. You'll notice when both are packed with grease, the Powerflex bush was wiped clean once the crush tube is inserted. Remember, that when the bush is installed into the wishbone housing, the bearing clearance is even tighter and no noticible amount of any grease would remain. If you stop the video at 7m28s, you'll notice some 'damage' inside the Powerflex bush. This is because it's been running dry (even though it was originally installed with their recommended grease) and heated due to excessive friction. The bush is sees constant loadings/unloadings, and this will eject any grease quite quickly.
I agree with you regarding the metal crush tube needs to remaining corrosion free. I like the fact Powerflex use stainless steel here, and I would like to see SuperPro do the same. I believe that the issue with SuperPro is small though, due to it running in a permanently greased environment.
I use Superpro in my Discovery 3 (and they are going into the 4) and they are fantastic
👍🏻👍🏻 Glad you like 'em.
You should not torque the control arm bushing bolt until the vehicle is sitting on the ground
and the ground with the full vehicle weight.
Why do you say that might be a bit of a challenge to get that torque wrench in there with the tire and wheel right in the way. And they dang sure didnt do that on the assembly line when the car was built. That would be like torquing the head bolts while the engine is running
That's true of rubber bushings, but these are technically bearings and therefore does not apply. You can bolt up and rotate it's full range of motion with little effort.
But why they doing this (Powerflex)? They don’t learn about this?
Cause I have installed yesterday Powerflex bushes on my Astra H OPC/VXR at the rear axle bushes. They also have hab this hexagon thing inside the hole but not the cones on the outside of the bush. At the front axle I have mount Superpro bushes. Unfortunately Superpro didn’t produce rear axle bushes for my car.
Long term R&D is the key, as well as understanding the FULL design brief and then designing from there. I see it all the time, whereby suspension 'upgrades' limit the movement of the suspension components; think stiff springs and ARBs and dampers that have travel shortened by a third. A great idea to make the car feel faster in the corner, but in reality it isn't.
Strange how your powerflex didn't have the crisscross inside them because mine did, also if you had added a washer to the end of the insert it would have made it run free, looks like the insert on yours id a little short, trapping the polly bush, mine work great......you must have had really old stock on your car.
They may do now, but these generation didn't. If you study your competition you might learn something 😉
The main issue was the poly was Hygroscopic and swelled in size over time.
I fit poweflex bushes daily and I've never had an issue with quality or squeaking. This test is also very biased is it not?
When these were first fitted, no they didn't squeak. Over time though (c.4-5 years) some of the bushes absorbed moisture and expanded which lead to us investigating them fully (the worst culprit was the front lower bush that, when parked on the customers' drive, was in a damper environment being up against a wall).
This isn't a biased video, IMO. I have an open mind on most things but it really shows how a product performs over a length of time (to be fair to PowerFlex I don't know whether they have changed their compound since these were made; they may have done). There are some clear advantages of SuperPro though, putting aside the squeaking bushes. If you look at 5min38sec, you can see how the knurling makes the SuperPro bush have far less friction. If you pause at the close up of the internal shot of the PF bush, you may be able to see some friction 'burns' due to the fact that the bush is essentially running dry. I also need a lot less force to push the SuperPro bush down the crush tube at 8mins onward. Remember, once these bushes are installed they are a little tighter around the crush tube which will exacerbate any friction issues.
I like that PF use stainless crush tubes vs. the coated steel on SuperPro. With their new silicon based grease, there shouldn't be an issue with corrosion as the tube will be running lubricated all the time.
I hope that's answered your question.
why dont you point out in the video that the powerflex bushes may be out of size spec due to water absorption.
Rubber control arm bushings use their rotational flex to rotate , poly bushings use the center pin as some kind of bearing.
I think poly bushings are best in apllications were no rotational movement is needed
It is important to grease these kinds of bushings to prevent the issues addressed. You could always go oem and just replace them after they break in about a year.
Grease is an integral part, and I'd be lying to suggest they are zero maintenance. However, the design reduces the need to re-grease frequently.
Hi there, Thanks for this good piece of info. I am looking to change my Jetta 2013 suspensions and the same time I think it's a good time to replace some of its bushes. There's
a problem though with the expenditure locked in with the struts and shocks, I find myself on a tight budget.
I know super pros are pretty good if not the best and yes there are expensive for a good reason too. I therefore have to do this by stages won't be able to change all of them, could you kindly recommend which bushes to change that would immediately make an impact.
Thank you very much
I would tend to make the back better than the front first. The last think you want is a stiff front end and sloppy arse (snap-oversteer).
I'm sure there's a double entendre in there somewhere.....😜
great video but i wanna know whats the best bushing kit out there for my 01 gsr integra. i dont want something to stiff anddeff not squeak. im about to put some buddy club coil overs and i hear poly bushings are bad and squeak .. is hard race the best brand ?.. please tell me your opinion on whats best for my car... i hate to spend 3000$ on a suspension system that sucks and make noise...
How often should you re-grease the bushes? I mean dis assemble all the parts and add new grease..
Great video!
Thanks!
Long video but it definitely explains a whole lot. 👍🏽👍🏽 very informative thank you
After watching this video I cancelled my order of Whiteline bushes and changed it to Superpro for my 05 Ford Ranger...thanks
Whats the current status on the new bushings? Any squeeks?
Nope ;o)
just watching your video and am at the knurling bit. I am thinking, not knowing anything about bushes that over time will this knurling wear away with rotation and lead to movement. this is why I would say powerflex has there's flat. with weight on the bush what stops the knurled face getting squashed flat anyway its so thin. good vid tho so far. was thinking of putting powerflex full kit on my t5 transporter. so any help appreciated thanks
May I make a comment, please read the instructions that come with the Powerflex bushes and watch some of the various video 's the company has on RUclips , they explain quire clearly the correct method of installation and the difference in their operation because of the bush material.
I'm looking for something better then OEM but I don't want to feel every crack or peace of gravel in the road, I'd like better handling but not at the expense of feeling every thing up my spine. Do you think super pro will do what I need?
They will indeed. To reduce NVH you need to have isolating properties and in a suspension linkage that requires movement. The SuperPro bushes not only allow free rotation but the will also move as the suspension loads. The performance comes from the way they load and unload in a linear and damped manner.
Phil
Thank you for this video, I learned something about poly bushes and what to get, good thing I didnt place an order from powerflex yet Id get the ones from strongfle instead as they have the same conical design
Polyurethane works as a bushing, the OEM rubber parts are the first point of call for suspension action which is critical for a smooth ride. In effect by using polyurethane bushings you are removing one element of a cars suspension. OK for the track but way less good for the road.
A poorly presented point that ignores the small difference in nvh of modern pu designs from SuperPro.
@@Dr.IanPlect Poly for road cars ain't good They don't absorb road shocks.There is a reason for rubber OEM bushes.Competition cars yes , road cars no. If it quacks like a duck.
@@amraceway I disagree.
@@Dr.IanPlect Feel free to. Poly is not good for older cars, makes them squeak like shit as they transfer forces through their aging bodies. Again for track use only.
@@amraceway And again, I'm specifically talking Super Pro with their superior qualities.
The area on the end of the bush has no effect on how much force it takes to rotate the arm. The clamp load shared by the PU is distributed throughout whatever size area. The force you are experiencing has been determined by the coefficient of friction of the materials in the interface.
I think it's just attention to detail rather than having material spilling out over the bearing surface.
A bit like going to the beach un-shaved. Doesn't make a difference, but there's a neater, more attractive solution 🤣
Huge thanks for explaining it all!
No problem!
Any experience with Prothane? They have channeling in the middle to retain grease and I'm using Mobil 1 Synth grease which is supposed to do a really good job
I don't I'm afraid. However, the channel you describe is called a bullet groove which runs the length of the bushing. As the suspension components load and unload the bushings will move (compress) and this action will deform the groove and you will find any grease gets ejected from the ends over time. In other words, it's a useless design to retain grease, but very cheap to manufacture as it can be created with the initial casting! A knurl on the other hand has to be cut in a second operation. HTH
+SportDriveSuspension thanks
I know u shouldnt have to ,but an easy way around that is to take a little off the sides of the suspension arm .Any rust there could cause this anyway
How about the adjustment of camber of gq safari/patrol
how many times do you have to click a torque wrench ,, great video all the same.
OCD Pedant.
Very useful video thanks!! i have now had my superpor bushes on my car for about a year and the wishbones are next to impossible to move now, Would you say i need to take them off a regrease it all? if so would grease would you recomend?
Many thanks
Matt
Project Miata Matt. I'm sorry to hear that; clearly something is not right. Can you tell me what grease you used? The older type was in a flat clear plastic wrapper and dried to leave to dry lubricant and was not up to the job. The new silicon stuff (in a silver tube) remains fluid. Let me have some further information and I'll point you in the right direction.
Ta
Phil
hi phil, thanks very much for the reply, it came with the stuff in a metalic wrapper. i used plenty of it but guess it has dried out, is there a good type of grease to use when relubing them all? i presume im going to have to remove them all again, i had to use a jack to get them to move up and down, they dont squeek at all just hardly move, rather frustrating after all the money spent, i couldnt find standard replacements anywhere . kind of wish i left it alone now but my oem ones had had it
Thanks again
Matt
www.amazon.com/CRC-SL3121-Marine-Trailer-Bearing/dp/B00BGRUTRA/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1494412560&sr=8-17&keywords=marine%2Bgrease&th=1
Great info. Really good. I'm looking at upgrading my VW T 25 syncro. Are they available ???? If so where and how
grease them mofo's ! also its best if the torque wrench is on the nut side when torquing
Either the quality is bad or they never greased them like they were supposed to. That's why most people install zerk grease fittings when going poly so they can easily lube them.
Well done, thank you. The problem with poly bushings, regardless of brand, is that they last only so long before they harden and stop taking back their shape after deforming. The best alternative, to me anyways, is to install spherical bearings. They allow the suspension to move in the axis it was intended to and that's it. No more maintenance or harsh ride than a poly bush.
Unfortunately, they are not available for all cars, and may have to be made to suit.
Actually, one thing about SuperPro bushings is that they don't deteriorate. I have bushings that have sat in a damp shed for 10 years and they are still compliant as new!
That's good. The problem I had with poly was cause of heat. Probably when they were loaded and deformed when hot, after a while they would not come back.
Note the powerflex OD is smaller than the new one...rethink your area calculation.
Thank you so much for the info and very very good and concise information very helpfull👍👍👍👍👍
No problem.
A brief look? This is 26 minutes long.
Sorry. But hopefully it shows a full picture.
26 minutes of useful and direct information with visual examples. I'll take 26 minutes of that, over the usual youtube video which consists of an 8 minute dubstep intro, followed by 30 seconds of time lapsed un-lit cell phone footage with no audio.
I'm sure he could talk for many hours including a road test and noise/vibration drive. Personally i think it was perfectly fine. - it also shows you get what you pay for, and shows you what to expect from a good product. - 30 minutes isnt a long time
Your old bushes were made of two pieces, but how do you install a Superpro bush when it's a one piece design? That would have been a nice addition to the video. 👍
You have to grease them up nicely and just push them in. Then insert the crush tube.
@@SportDriveSuspension Thanks. But I did all of my LS400 four corners already in the spring and the bushes were "split" design ones. So no problem at all.
@@youhoneycoyvunen8964 No problem. I forgot to mention, the bushings that are split don't take any lateral load; the ones that do are whole.
@@SportDriveSuspension Can you elaborate on that. The bushes I used were for front and rear sway bars. I don't think they are available in any other type than split. You are possibly talking about bushes for the suspension joints?
@@youhoneycoyvunen8964 Yeah, talking about the wishbone bushings. Split ARBs are fine! 👍🏻
How do you get them into the arm with the lip? I cannot get them to go in on my 2008 Miata, the lip is too big to fit through the arm.
Have you removed the tube? The tube is inserted once the bushing is installed.
You have to use a vice for the lower ones. Grease the end to help. You kinda have to grab the arm and bushing as you wind in the vice to keep it centred. A bit tricky, but straightforward once you get the first one done. 👍🏻
@@SportDriveSuspension I have the NC Bushings and they just bunch up before they go into the A-arm due to the significant lip on the end. I have changed out NA bushings with no issue. If I could post pictures I could show you the problems.
could the powerflex bushes of been over tightened causing that much difficulty in movement? I've no affiliation to any company but looking to poly bushes my whole car.
Looked at Duraflex but heard they're not good again the same with Floflex and Powerflex are ridiculously expensive not with standing they don't cover the whole car range! I'm looking for a specific colour of bushes too being green. Any advice?
daniel0663
Well it's not for track use. It's on a Ford Mondeo MK3 ST220 and i was going to use the adjustable lower arm bushings that can be adjusted for correct tracking. Mainly everyday road use - club meets etc. I know the rear arm bushings need changing and the fronts - i want to get a firmer ride without compromising comfort and more noise. That's why i have been looking at links and videos to gain more insight as to which is best. It seems Superflex are superior from your video but the price will be high for sure. Maybe I'll just need to poly certain bushings?
Hi, My vehicle is 2015 Land Rover LR4. I need to put new lower control arm busing. What would you recommend?
I have no direct knowledge of Landies I'm afraid. Speak to SuperPro directly.
What if you insert 2 washers on the sides of PowerFlex bushings? Will that fix the problem?
There is no room to do that. However, all that needed done was to clean corrosion off and grease the mounting points the same as he did with the replacement bushings. In other words the only problem was a piss poor installation of the prior bushings. NO new bushings were needed nor did they have any benefit. He just needed a piece of sandpaper and a couple ounces of silicone grease.
Supper nice video. Thanks, I found this just in time.
I just ordered a bunch of powerflex bushes. I'll give em a try
if this happened to me, would it be ok for me to grease them if I had no way of purchasing new/other bushes?
Do powerflex bushing still have this issue as about to fit the front wishbones with some ???
I couldn't say. If the compound hasn't changed then I believe the issue would still be apparent.
Hopped on their website to price out the bushings. But they'res alot of options. Any way I could get a link to buy these exact ones or a part number.
Contact a specialist supplier for your make/model.
We realised that the bushes had absorbed a lot of moisture over time which exacerbated the problem. So it's not only the initial fit that matters, but the composition of the material. I haven't found any other brand that comes close to SuperPro yet!
Big issue with my type of car doesn't appear to be many options other than powerflex
My recommendation would be to consider sticking with stock parts, if the manufacturer still has them available.
@@SportDriveSuspension I have a Volvo s60r . And the thing is very loose with factory bushes. Looking to try sharpen it up and give it a more responsive and direct drive
where could I buy that superflex bushings?
Have a look at their dealer network page: www.superpro.com.au/where-to-buy/dealer-distributor-and-fitter-locator
Good interesting video, in my personal opinion, I recon all poly bushes for everyday road use are a waste of money because if you replace worn ones with rubber chances are you would have sold the car by the time they fail again years later. I recon rubber will absorb noise etc better, which is priceless because having a harsh ride is real annoying. For the track though, they are probably worth fitting.I have just replaced 12 at the front and 6 at the rear of my Alfa, with standard rubber bushes and it has tightened the handling up massively it's like a new car. I would be very unhappy if I had gone to the trouble and expense of fitting poly bushes, only to have sacrificed ride comfort for slightly tighter handling.
i recon the reason they are longer than the crush shaft is because the rubber swells over time.
That's correct. The crush tube is always going to be the correct length as it has to fit inside a rigid housing. The material has absorbed a load of moisture and swelled.
What do the stock mx-5 bushes look like? Are they conical or flat?
How do you grease say after a year or so having no grease fitting.
You shouldn't need to do them every year. A quick test without a damper unit would tell you whether or not they needed done.
You would need to remove tbe wishbone and crush tube. However, this could be done if you're looking to have the suspension realigned.
Thanks for the sharing as I was going to put Powerflex bushes on my car well im definitely not going to now.
is this product line carried in the USA? Looking where to source them for my 06 Silverado 4x4
I have the energy suspension bushings in my truck and the squeak all the time. They are extremely annoying. Im going to have to add grease fittings so I can service them without removing them.
You'll be greasing them constantly as there's no void for the grease to be retained in. As quick as you'll add the grease, it'll come out. It might stop squeaking for a bit, but don't expect a miracle.
Phil
Holy shit... You sir are a badass. Awesome information, I am going to remove my LCA bushings i just installed on my LCA's for my 240sx and replace them. Thank You!
I've got a Ford Focus mk2 & tryed PSB bushes on the front track control arms and the left one rear bush virtually fell out of the bracket fortunately it got jammed on part of the floor of the car so didn't come out completely but just goes to show best to buy quality and get it right first time, so replaced both sides those bushes with genuine powerflex purple series shaped like a top hat so they can't escape out the back, problem solved and moves smoothly
Are there super superpros for a Lexus SC300? I could not find any for my car..
May be not. Check with SP directly.
I'm fitting superpro bushes to my mx5 at the moment, the crush tubes are all sub-flush to the PU bush face :/
Where in the World are you?
Did you powder coat the inside of the housings as that will grow the bush.
You can send me an email to info at sportdrive dot technology
Is the corrosion on the wishbone itself not an issue?
Most of that was underseal that was flaking off. Inside the housing it is recommended that you clean and prepare the surface thoroughly and finish with a thin coat of something like POR15. After that everything is liberally greased with the grease supplied by SuperPro.
great content. you forgot to mention that superpro cost 4x more than powerflex. but you certainly get what you pay for. on the other hand, for those with tools, skills & motivation, less well engineered bushings can be modded.
How would you compare ProThane to SuperPro Bushings?
I don't have any experience with ProThane I'm afraid. But look out for engineering cues and search for longevity reviews on Forums (squeaking/binding etc.).
went with energy suspension control arm bushing, and solid aluminum body bushing.
did you put any copper grease on the bushings?
Absolutely not! Copper grease is not a grease for rotary or sliding lubrication; it's a general anti seize compound.
SP supply their own silicon waterproof grease and you should only use this with their bushings.
oh ok, its just powerflex reccomends using copper grease and its a bit confusing.
I know, and that's the problem; trying to clear your way through all the crap out there. Copper grease is not a grease for moving parts. The grease element is just a medium for applying the active ingredients which is anti seize for things like bolts (especially those that see temperature). If you use copper grease on brake caliper sliders for example, in a very short amount of time the grease melts away and you're left with seized slider pins and a failing caliper. Very dangerous, but commonly used by numpty mechanics.
I purchased Powerflex ARB bushings for my MR2 MK2' they didn't fit! Really shocked at the poor quality of Powerflex, although the more expensive black series looks better. I would go for the superior but they don't make it easy to match your requirements like the powerflex site, with diagrams to make it easy to choose...
The reason I looked at the bushings again was one of the rear sets was black series. They are just hard plastic from what I can gather. The center hole had elongated as the bush had loaded and unloaded. You could toe the wheel in and out by hand! I would go anywhere near black series bushings.
what brand were the first polyurethane bushings?
hawk mickler powerflex