Adapting our '36 Rear end to the 1932 FORD frame (Roadster Build)
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- Опубликовано: 24 фев 2023
- On the episode we are back on the roadster build. Focusing on the rear end, we install the 36 rear end after a few modifications. Once the rear end is fixed we will have a reference point for the body.
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Another great vid, helping me on my own rear end. I can hear the Australian twang coming through in your accent. 😁
When leaf spring bends the dimension' s change so the leaf springs will bind in the cross member!
Yup most definitely, it has enough clearance around for load and lift
Good to here Karl is coming to visit, get him to con Brent into coming as well and there will be 3 of the best channels combined. This was a well explained video on the process Jordan. Cheers Greg
Was going to comment "Sometimes an air chisel with a round punch works to get those pins and bushes out"....and then you used one, haha! On the same wavelength brother! Also, if you need to scribe the straight parts of the torque tube, laying a length of angle Iron on it will produce a dead straight line.
Yeah she was definitely a life saver that’s forsure!
It’s coming along nicely
Jordan
you could try making a long bath and using electrolysis to descale and remove all the rust from inside . Use a long piece of re bar and some spray can caps to centralise the re bar Anode in the centre of the torque tube
use a ply trough with heavy plastic liner and then switch on for 2 - 3 days.
for a wire brush use one of those wire wheels again on the end of some steel rod/ re bar and drill.
This is a fantastic idea mike!
Super keen on the potential course!
NICELY DONE
Yes I would be interested in Karl's visit but if Brent was able to come as well then I would definitely be there. Love this build.
That's awesome news about karl. It would be even better if you could come over to east side too.
The interest is there, wish I could afford, would be a terrific learning experience! You both are phenomenal with metal, in 65 years of work I wish that I could have been exposed to such talent. What an opportunity for those who have the ability to come and participate.
Man that is looking good! Nice job!
Thanks Dale- long ways to go but coming along
Awesome , watching from Langley BC
Home town! Hope it’s not snowing too much
@@bennettscustomsco I had a feeling it was, snowing today.I bought parts off Ross too for my 28. cheers buddy
Looking sweet, I love this stuff appreciate you sharing I watch for the next One
Good job again Jordan ,really making progress now!!
Thanks Paul
I relieved the crossmember on my 33’ to accept my 36’ spring/banjo. It didn’t take a lot, nice to see another approach to it
Thank for the voice of reason .. degrading the integrity of the spring pack did not seem logical to me when altering the crossmember and fortifying it with a patch would suffice .. am I missing something .. please don’t consider my comment criticism .. guess I’d rather feel a crossmember failing slowly at 40miles ..
@@rawsum8421 I think it’s a good approach both ways. The entire spring pack rides on the integrity of the lower spring at the shackle, the weakest point in my opinion. These cars just don’t weigh enough that modifying the spring in this way should cause concern. In my opinion. But that’s the beauty of hot rodding. Building something to your vision. Personally I like that the frame hasn’t been cut, the u bolts will fit better as mine have less tolerance from my crossmember relief.
I agree with yeah both! Definitely a few ways to skin a cat! But all seem to get the desired result! That’s Hotrodding!
I would be interested in the course and meeting Karl Fisher as I watch his Channels with much interest. Ask him to bring some of plannishing hammers for sale with him.
Super informative stuff here. The guys at Iron Trap Garage had to do the same spring mod on their '34 Carpiolet. Can't wait to see the collab with you and Karl! Thank you for the great content and go Bennetts Customs, keep moving forward!
Power on Jordan....💪
Powers on! Flat stick
thanks for the vids! quick correction on finding center with a scribe. one line is roughly in the middle , turn the tube over run the line again...i doubt its not 2 parallel lines and the center between them is center . its a more accurate method where close enough isnt quite good enough. looking forward to seeing it do donuts lol.
Thanks Mike! That’s a great idea
@@bennettscustomsco not mine cant remember where i learnt it from but i do know it works ;] ...back to work lol i want more vids
Great job. It will be nice to see Karl and you working together again.
Very Nice job Jordan Coming along nicely That will be Kool to see Karl and you working again
Great episode! It is so satisfying to watch competent fabricators, and you're right up there as "Best-In-Class"!
Thanks Tom! Still lots to learn but excited to create every day
I'd be keen to roll over from Brisbane!
Just as a heads-up,,, Mart's Garage, here on RUclips, has completed a successful torque tube shortening instalment on his '32 Sedan chassis. Check it out and he even makes a nifty little tool to remove that awkward 'collar' spring/bushing in the leading/inside/speedo drive end of the t-tube. It works a treat! Great project coverage here at Bennett's and eagerly waiting upon the next instalment! Love it!
I’ll have to check him out! Thanks mate
Awesome work as always Jordan!!! I can say because of you I picked up a 33 Ford truck roadster body and bed. I will be building my own frame rails since 32 chassis are hard to come by here in the northeast of the states
All this information will help when I rebuild my '47 Tudor Sedan. Thanks.
Very well explained. Karl is how I found your channel. Thank you for your time.
Thanks for joining along!
Nice job, however i'd have cut the kink out of the cross member and welded in a piece again making it straight so the straight spring fits.
Most definitely that other option, even replacing the crossmember with a ‘40 style or even model a if you’d plan to run a QC, but for my plan this worked perfect
Porta power would have helped a shit tonne with that spring!
Right!
loving this build series, cant wait for the next episode
Coming soon.
👏👏👏👌Cheers Chris
Great fab work! Get that man some Timbits, he's earned it! 😎
Gee wizz I could go for some sour cream glazed!
Great installment on this build. Right on Jordan, I'm learning a ton from you. Thank you.
Great to hear Eric!
Realy nice and wonderfull job ,,, guy
Superb watch as ever. All the best to you and your family. Tim.
Ay good job Josh went to the office before all that pushing and pulling?
Yeah typical Josh hahaha
Nice job Jordan and making good progress! You brought back some fun memories of when I did the same things building my AV8 roadster. Best wishes and thanks for another Enjoyable video!
Thanks Jon!
Nice one Jordan great job
oh and sometimes they have cars and just bodys i think they are brothers they have a buisness in old car stuff like you are into so i thaught i would tell you so you have a good sorce to go to for parts and accessories from oem to custome i think they also have quick change rear ends👍
Thank you for that!!
Genio jordan .... espectacular tu trabajo siempre veo lo que haces!!!! Saludos desde Buenos Aires
Thank you Jose
Need to make a spring spreader!
... or loan a Port-o-power, coz they can be safe and handy at spring-spreading too.
Yes yes yes
I appreciate you man !! I want to put forward an alternate idea .. if possible with regard to geometry.. could you fashion a mount for the radius rods to the transmission mount respecting the centreline of the driveshaft pivot? This would leave the radius rods stock and original and keep the original stability of the stock length.. just food for thought .. great build and great news that Karl is making the trek !!
Not a bad idea at all Raw, I did how ever change the setup that you will see in the next video
Would love to be included in the workshop list. Send details please. Love both of you guys work, very inspirational. Karl needs to come back in our spring and drive the southern area down to Albany for the magnificent wild flower display, it’s awesome. Cheers
Thanks for the feedback Noel. If you want to send through your email, we can include you in all the details if and when the workshop goes ahead. Alternatively, you can email: info@bennettscustoms.com.au
Cheers.
I would of cut the cross member instead. And make the mod invisible!
Curious as to whether you will balance the driveshaft once it is shortened. It is coming along and will be nice to see it sitting on it's rear suspension soon.
I’ve done a couple and haven’t had an issue, would it help to try and get it balanced yes most definitely
Have Karl do a shoey on camera
I dig your work mate! Question: If the rule of thumb is the longer the radius rods the better, why not relocate the mount tab farther forward before altering the length and angle of your rods?
John you’re right, next video this week will be along those lines!
If be keen on info with Karl. When, price, etc
Thanks for the feedback. If you want to send through your email, we can include you in all the details if and when the workshop goes ahead. Alternatively, you can email: info@bennettscustoms.com.au
Cheers.
Am in Perth and dead keen for workshop. Let us know if it happens!
Thanks for the feedback Ben. If you want to send through your email, we can include you in all the details if and when the workshop goes ahead. Alternatively, you can email: info@bennettscustoms.com.au
Cheers.
👍🏼👍🏼
Nice work. Very educational. Didn't like the "music."
Thanks Frank
Shouldn't that bevel been angled ? The area the curved spring fits into the crossmember is not perpendicular.
They have clearance around each way
Oh great. 38min. More bent over double grunt work.
?? More on the ram ?? Icant find it. Why the big mystery??
Ram?
@@bennettscustomsco ??the info source yu mentioned .ram?
amazing job