What’s the hpfp reading on ur ap from the vid it doesn’t look like you have a cel on of it driving from my experience with mine it does that when there a boost/vac leak and have no throttle response I also read a comment of someone saying you don’t have a oem maf amd that could be a major culprit my next ? Would be how many miles in the car have you ever had your di injectors flow tested and clean and new injector seals put on I recommend over speed injector seals …. Are you running e at all cause if so like my self I have to break down my hpfp once or twice a year to clean the hpfp
@@harryredemann8018 The issue was a bad fuel sensor, it was replaced with a non-oem sensor, still same issue , was getting a reading of 2277psi consistent even at idle, put another oem fuel rail with the sensor, issue was fixed. No vac/boost leaks Injectors were serviced Was running pump93 However, I no longer have the speed.
hello! I have the same problem as you but it only fails between 2,500 and 3000 rpm! I don't have a check.... could you help me with the ebay link of the part you changed? I can't find it
I had the same blow off as you... I put the original one thinking it could be that and it improved for a moment then it failed but I can say that with the original blow off it feels much faster!
Hey! Hope you were able to resolve your issue. But this is the part # for the valve L3K9-13-2J0 - idk the part number for the actual fuel rail. Better luck finding a fuel rail with both the sensor and valve already on it.
Yes, I still have the car. Do you have any codes? If so, definitely start there. Could be fuel sensor related. Check your fuel pump fuse (my fuse loses connection sometimes, so I'd have to pull it out and put it back to get it started, i have to fix that soon cause its annoying) Check the ground to the HPFP, and make sure it is cleaned.
@jaimepelaez9970 A blown fuse or bad fuse connection won't give a code. Dirty fuel injectors won't give a code either (in some cases, they do) Also, check your MAF sensor
My car is having a slightly different issues. My boost levels have been 5psi lower at full throttle. In the higher rpms is when I notice it the most. I already checked for boost leaks and I dont have any. Do you knows what my problem might be?
That's not a fuel pressure relief valve, it's a one way valve intended to hold pressure in the rail when the engine is switched off. Source? I was a Mazda tech of 23 years and a MS3 owner of 16 years.
I appreciate the info. However, everyone I know has been calling it that or just a "fuel pressure valve" .. even when sourcing the part through Mazda, they called it that [fuel pressure valve] as well. I guess the name is interchangeable 🤷🏾♂️ ,but thanks for the comment 🙏🏾
@@GuimardJoseph 😂 just because ignorant people don’t know the proper terminology doesn’t mean you are correct. ITS A FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR and if you had the service manual it’s called just that
@@azarahwagner2749 it's a fuel pressure regulator in the fact that it maintains a set pressure in the rail with the engine switched off, beyond that it does nothing while the engine is running. Fuel pressure is 100% controlled via the PCM using the spill valve incorporated in the HPFP.
@@GuimardJoseph unplug your front AFR sensor (the o2 sensor closest to the head). Start the car and try to accelerate, does your problem change at all?
😂 How rusty is your fuel tank inside ? The rust will begin all around the pinch weld seam . It will cause blockage in the fuel sending unit and cause damage to the high pressure fuel pump as well as clogging the pressure regulator and injectors. THINK ABOUT IT !!! Most of your Mazda’s are 20-25 years old. Fuel tanks need to be kept above half a tank or approximately where the pinch weld is
@azarahwagner2749 The issue was a bad sensor. Fuel tank had no rust at all. HPFP and injectors were cleaned and working properly. Your comment makes me assume you didn't watch the whole video.
Yea, but it doesn't happen during WOT. It would sit at 2 kr just at idle before changing the sensor. The car has a heavy vibration overall, but its been like that since I changed the pmm & dmm. I'll address it eventually - may need to replace the rmm
Hoping this can fix my misfire at idle and sluggish acceleration after sitting all night. Just did new oem injectors and egr block off plate
I bought this sensor and I was able to solve my problem with this original Bosch sensor
What’s the hpfp reading on ur ap from the vid it doesn’t look like you have a cel on of it driving from my experience with mine it does that when there a boost/vac leak and have no throttle response I also read a comment of someone saying you don’t have a oem maf amd that could be a major culprit my next ? Would be how many miles in the car have you ever had your di injectors flow tested and clean and new injector seals put on I recommend over speed injector seals …. Are you running e at all cause if so like my self I have to break down my hpfp once or twice a year to clean the hpfp
@@harryredemann8018
The issue was a bad fuel sensor, it was replaced with a non-oem sensor, still same issue , was getting a reading of 2277psi consistent even at idle, put another oem fuel rail with the sensor, issue was fixed.
No vac/boost leaks
Injectors were serviced
Was running pump93
However, I no longer have the speed.
hello! I have the same problem as you but it only fails between 2,500 and 3000 rpm! I don't have a check.... could you help me with the ebay link of the part you changed? I can't find it
I had the same blow off as you... I put the original one thinking it could be that and it improved for a moment then it failed but I can say that with the original blow off it feels much faster!
Hey! Hope you were able to resolve your issue. But this is the part # for the valve L3K9-13-2J0 - idk the part number for the actual fuel rail. Better luck finding a fuel rail with both the sensor and valve already on it.
How do you display those center cluster lights i have an 06 spped 6
Not sure what you mean 🤔
what is the exact reference for the fuel pressure sensor for gen 2 BOSCH 0261 545 053 or BOSCH 0261 545 006 ? thancks
@@predatorofficiel9203 the one that was on my gen2 was 006 , but I advise to double check yours to be 100% sure.
However, either should work fine.
Still have the car? I just did a swap and I’m having major fuel cut off issues similar to this. Thought it was spark plugs and nope
Yes, I still have the car.
Do you have any codes? If so, definitely start there. Could be fuel sensor related.
Check your fuel pump fuse (my fuse loses connection sometimes, so I'd have to pull it out and put it back to get it started, i have to fix that soon cause its annoying)
Check the ground to the HPFP, and make sure it is cleaned.
@@GuimardJoseph no codes related to the issue 😭
@jaimepelaez9970 A blown fuse or bad fuse connection won't give a code.
Dirty fuel injectors won't give a code either (in some cases, they do)
Also, check your MAF sensor
Do u need to replace the whole rail or can I just replace the fuel sensor?
Hey! No, you do not need the whole rail.
My car is having a slightly different issues. My boost levels have been 5psi lower at full throttle. In the higher rpms is when I notice it the most. I already checked for boost leaks and I dont have any. Do you knows what my problem might be?
Have you checked your MAF sensor?
Do you have a check engine light?
I know this video is old but im getting a p0300 code new plugs, timings done, getting a similar issue hitting a wall/stutter at 5k rpms
We're the plugs gapped?
Have you cleaned your injectors and intake valves?
That's not a fuel pressure relief valve, it's a one way valve intended to hold pressure in the rail when the engine is switched off. Source? I was a Mazda tech of 23 years and a MS3 owner of 16 years.
I appreciate the info. However, everyone I know has been calling it that or just a "fuel pressure valve" .. even when sourcing the part through Mazda, they called it that [fuel pressure valve] as well. I guess the name is interchangeable 🤷🏾♂️ ,but thanks for the comment 🙏🏾
@@GuimardJoseph
😂 just because ignorant people don’t know the proper terminology doesn’t mean you are correct.
ITS A FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR and if you had the service manual it’s called just that
@azarahwagner2749 Definitely not a regulator. Here's the part number L3K9-13-2J0 . Tell me what name comes up 🙏🏾
@@azarahwagner2749 it's a fuel pressure regulator in the fact that it maintains a set pressure in the rail with the engine switched off, beyond that it does nothing while the engine is running. Fuel pressure is 100% controlled via the PCM using the spill valve incorporated in the HPFP.
@@GuimardJoseph unplug your front AFR sensor (the o2 sensor closest to the head). Start the car and try to accelerate, does your problem change at all?
remove that trash maf sensor and keep oem (l3k9)
Most definitely
Brother OE is original equipment, OEM is Original equipment manufactured. Oe is what you want not oem
😂
How rusty is your fuel tank inside ? The rust will begin all around the pinch weld seam . It will cause blockage in the fuel sending unit and cause damage to the high pressure fuel pump as well as clogging the pressure regulator and injectors.
THINK ABOUT IT !!! Most of your Mazda’s are 20-25 years old. Fuel tanks need to be kept above half a tank or approximately where the pinch weld is
@azarahwagner2749 The issue was a bad sensor.
Fuel tank had no rust at all. HPFP and injectors were cleaned and working properly.
Your comment makes me assume you didn't watch the whole video.
Lmao my guy if you’re hitting anything over 1-2 kr at WOT, there’s a problem.
Yea, but it doesn't happen during WOT. It would sit at 2 kr just at idle before changing the sensor.
The car has a heavy vibration overall, but its been like that since I changed the pmm & dmm. I'll address it eventually - may need to replace the rmm