Thanks for this - I have the 105 f2DC but it's fine for now. I will be forced to use manual focus when I finally get around to buying a used mirrorless body and put it on the adaptor.
Just started using the 105 f2 DC on a Leica M10-R with an adapter.. I recently sold me 90 Summicron-M because of how AMAZING the nikon lens looks on the Leica Sensor
@@edifiedproductions Yeah but it's nice they don't! If they did, more people would want these vintage lenses and the prices would go up, rather than down like they are now, because modern camera's wont allow them to auto focus.
Ive had a 80-200 sitting in my bag for close to a decade because it suffered from this problem... gonna have to try your trick and see what's up! Thanks !
How did it go? I just repaired mine just a couple mins after this video. I added another comment here too, that you might find helpful if you haven't taken a look yet. It's actually pretty easy.
Hey, just fixed a 80-200 2.8 (new - internal focus/ dual ring version) thanks to this. It didn't take too long to figure out which one was for the manual focus. They're not held in by anything on this model. Rather than screws or plastic weld as you called it, there's simply two nipples sticking up and two holes in the metal prong and it just sits down over them. After I bent mine to get it more force to bend downward and engage again, I notice it still wanted to twist out and off the nipples. This wouldn't be an issue had it been screwed down like that lens. I figured, the band would hold it and keep it pressed down but I was wrong. Due to being recessed a bit, the band can't press down and hold it in properly (thus that setup there in that lens is a superior design!) So I had to do was cut out a tiny piece of cardboard to fit down in there to take up the gap, between the two nipples/pins. This way once the band is back in place, it's now holding it in place with pressure (like your screws are doing. Should be good for years. For those of us with these style lenses. Due to the lightness of these prongs made for engaging to manual focus. It's important to use the manual focus ring, nice and easy, that is to say, once it comes up against the hard stop, don't bump it hard up against it in either direction and certainty don't apply any force once it stops. I think if they made replacement tabs, does anyone know if they do? The new one would probably fit tight and "snap" down in the two nipples and just stay there, without requiring the makeshift spacer, but I think adding one either way, is probably best. Nikon should have stuck with the two screws for sure, rather than this lower end, no doubt lower cost setup in the 80-200 (new) BUT that said, it was still very easy to remedy and took like a total of 20 mins, start to finish to see what needed to be done to re-bend the prong and then find the solution to add hold down, clamping pressure to keep it was twisting back up out, since it doesn't have screws. A little epoxy could be used instead of a little spacer, but since that clamp goes around it, followed by the rubber, a little spacer is by far easier, less messy and simplifies a future fix. It's likely a stronger setup too, to let that band do the work,where epoxy could break down the road, and the spacer isn't going anywhere.
I've already done to this my 80-200, but now I need to replace the Focus switch (for M and A Focus). It finally broke next to the little black screw (I always press the button to turn and switch it, by the way LOL), and I had a "fix" to glue it together, but that didn't work so I have it off and apart, and need to put the button back in connected to the two small metal parts underneath. Any tips on that?? I understand how the silver button was connected underneath by the strip of metal with the screw hole and "hook", but I need to know where exactly the small metal "pin" with the screw hole fits in that entire scheme. Thanks in advance.
Hey! Yeah that little mechanism always gives me trouble, it’s actually the first repair I did on my 105. Personally I always have to disassemble until I’ve detached the ring entirely, put the little assembly with the pin and metal bar in, screw it in, and then put it all back together. It’s a maaaajor pain, I have to say. But while it’s out, epoxy the broken black ring together and let it dry. Nikon used some really thin, crappy plastic on a lot of those lenses so if you use a decent epoxy it should last a lot longer than the factory ring did. Smooth it out on either side if you need to for it to move smoothly. Good luck!
Unfortunately no. You have to buy a whole lens. I believe the super cheap AF-D 35-70 F/3.5-4.5 has the same clutches plastic welded into place, but they can be removed rather easily. I’ll have to double check, so don’t take that as a fact just yet.
I recently bought a 105 where the electronics don’t work and I was wondering if there are any resources on fixing it. The autofocus simply doesn’t work at all.
Might be one them that are worth just using like an old school manual vintage AI/ AI-S lens. Did you get it for a steal, like that? Don't want to sell it do ya?
correct I don’t want to sell it. The price was great but I still wish I could get it functioning the way it was intended. Kinda feels wrong not having auto focus with the F4@@Warrior_Resisting_Colonialism
One of the clutches broke so i took the working one and just stuffed it back in and put some small peaces of paper in there to hold it down, i shoot maual anyways so its a win for me.
Thanks for this - I have the 105 f2DC but it's fine for now. I will be forced to use manual focus when I finally get around to buying a used mirrorless body and put it on the adaptor.
It’s a shame no one has made an F to Z adapter with an AF motor.
Just started using the 105 f2 DC on a Leica M10-R with an adapter.. I recently sold me 90 Summicron-M because of how AMAZING the nikon lens looks on the Leica Sensor
@@edifiedproductions Yeah but it's nice they don't! If they did, more people would want these vintage lenses and the prices would go up, rather than down like they are now, because modern camera's wont allow them to auto focus.
Ive had a 80-200 sitting in my bag for close to a decade because it suffered from this problem... gonna have to try your trick and see what's up! Thanks !
How did it go? I just repaired mine just a couple mins after this video. I added another comment here too, that you might find helpful if you haven't taken a look yet. It's actually pretty easy.
Hey, just fixed a 80-200 2.8 (new - internal focus/ dual ring version) thanks to this. It didn't take too long to figure out which one was for the manual focus. They're not held in by anything on this model. Rather than screws or plastic weld as you called it, there's simply two nipples sticking up and two holes in the metal prong and it just sits down over them. After I bent mine to get it more force to bend downward and engage again, I notice it still wanted to twist out and off the nipples. This wouldn't be an issue had it been screwed down like that lens.
I figured, the band would hold it and keep it pressed down but I was wrong. Due to being recessed a bit, the band can't press down and hold it in properly (thus that setup there in that lens is a superior design!)
So I had to do was cut out a tiny piece of cardboard to fit down in there to take up the gap, between the two nipples/pins. This way once the band is back in place, it's now holding it in place with pressure (like your screws are doing.
Should be good for years.
For those of us with these style lenses. Due to the lightness of these prongs made for engaging to manual focus. It's important to use the manual focus ring, nice and easy, that is to say, once it comes up against the hard stop, don't bump it hard up against it in either direction and certainty don't apply any force once it stops.
I think if they made replacement tabs, does anyone know if they do? The new one would probably fit tight and "snap" down in the two nipples and just stay there, without requiring the makeshift spacer, but I think adding one either way, is probably best.
Nikon should have stuck with the two screws for sure, rather than this lower end, no doubt lower cost setup in the 80-200 (new) BUT that said, it was still very easy to remedy and took like a total of 20 mins, start to finish to see what needed to be done to re-bend the prong and then find the solution to add hold down, clamping pressure to keep it was twisting back up out, since it doesn't have screws.
A little epoxy could be used instead of a little spacer, but since that clamp goes around it, followed by the rubber, a little spacer is by far easier, less messy and simplifies a future fix. It's likely a stronger setup too, to let that band do the work,where epoxy could break down the road, and the spacer isn't going anywhere.
Sweet! Thank you! I have the issue with my recently purchased 80-200!
Did you get it fixed?
I've already done to this my 80-200, but now I need to replace the Focus switch (for M and A Focus). It finally broke next to the little black screw (I always press the button to turn and switch it, by the way LOL), and I had a "fix" to glue it together, but that didn't work so I have it off and apart, and need to put the button back in connected to the two small metal parts underneath. Any tips on that?? I understand how the silver button was connected underneath by the strip of metal with the screw hole and "hook", but I need to know where exactly the small metal "pin" with the screw hole fits in that entire scheme. Thanks in advance.
Hey! Yeah that little mechanism always gives me trouble, it’s actually the first repair I did on my 105. Personally I always have to disassemble until I’ve detached the ring entirely, put the little assembly with the pin and metal bar in, screw it in, and then put it all back together. It’s a maaaajor pain, I have to say.
But while it’s out, epoxy the broken black ring together and let it dry. Nikon used some really thin, crappy plastic on a lot of those lenses so if you use a decent epoxy it should last a lot longer than the factory ring did. Smooth it out on either side if you need to for it to move smoothly.
Good luck!
Did you ever find where to get these pieces. My 80-200 is missing the clutches and I need some!
Unfortunately no. You have to buy a whole lens.
I believe the super cheap AF-D 35-70 F/3.5-4.5 has the same clutches plastic welded into place, but they can be removed rather easily. I’ll have to double check, so don’t take that as a fact just yet.
I recently bought a 105 where the electronics don’t work and I was wondering if there are any resources on fixing it. The autofocus simply doesn’t work at all.
Might be one them that are worth just using like an old school manual vintage AI/ AI-S lens.
Did you get it for a steal, like that? Don't want to sell it do ya?
correct I don’t want to sell it. The price was great but I still wish I could get it functioning the way it was intended. Kinda feels wrong not having auto focus with the F4@@Warrior_Resisting_Colonialism
@@ionluv Does it have electrical communication with the camera at all? Or just the auto focus isn't working?
One of the clutches broke so i took the working one and just stuffed it back in and put some small peaces of paper in there to hold it down, i shoot maual anyways so its a win for me.