Q&A - Gareth here, long time watcher / generally in awe of your ambition, perseverance and patience! I’m about to replace my compression post on my much loved 30 year old Moody 35, parked at Port Solent, UK (you visited once!)… we’ve not seen your compression (if you even have one on a cat?!), can we see how it looks / what you think might need to be done there? Serious structural piece so you want that sound before you even motor any where right?! You’d love to hear your thoughts! Gareth
Mads, you are crushing it! Just wanted to say, you are by far and away my favourite personality behind a screen! This cat is gonna be amazing when you are finished with her. Take your time and do everything the way you want! All of us just enjoy you doing you :) QA How many of the boats in that yard are for sale?
Q&A First, you do what you need to do to make this less stressful because of your desire to please us!!!! I would love to hear a Q and A and have a request that may be reasonable. If not, no harm if you ignore. You could do a sort of Q and A as you mentioned and as a second episode to buy you another week of buffer you could do a here is the stock vessel, here are the list of areas needing simple, ha ha, repairs, and here are the areas where you are changing the design to fit your needs. Not a deep dive but overview with a sort of roadmap. Seeing what could be and what is in a more self contained video would be cool!
Q&A - I'd love for you to summarize the primary things the new boat will do for you/your family that Athena does not, whether performance or living space etc. As a bonus, are there are any significant downsides to the new boat compared to Athena?
CAD For the win! I started 3D designing for EXACTLY this reason. I was looking for a simple part and the damn thing was like $300. I used Onshape and 3D printed my own for about $3. Besides it taught me a new skill. Keep at it, beat the man!
Q/A great job. I'm curious to know what modifications will you make from the original design? They say when you build a custom house you get 100% of what you want. This isn't a brand new build but what improvements are you hoping to make? Structural strengthening? Running AC throughout? Security systems? Lightning protection? Upgraded battery banks? I know you don't have an unlimited budget so you got to pick and choose.
Mads, I remove frozen bolts like that for a living. After welding the nut on the bolt needs to be (torch or inductive) heated to literal incandescence, brighter than cherry red. Keep that heat on, at least 30 seconds or so - careful not to melt the metal. Once there, remove the heat, and let it cool to a duller, more cherry red. Do not apply oil of any kind, it will harden the metal and make it brittle, more prone to shear. As the bolt cools begin applying force, you will get some movement, if you don't, heat cycle it again. Once you have movement of the shank, loosen it until it starts feeling 'tight' again, then (and this is counter-intuitive) tighten the bolt inwards until it feels smooth again before taking it back to the left to loosen it again. This allows the unstuck portion of the threads to start grinding the rusty shmutz in the bore to fine enough particles to allow more movement. Repeat this process, adding heat if it starts getting stubborn again. I have only had a failed extraction with this method a handful of times in close to 30 years. Your best weapons here are heat and patience. Always good to catch you on a Sunday doing boat stuff.
Agreed. The publishing times for Sail Life's videos is such that I get to watch them just after my evening meal. They have become the highlight of my Sunday's! Just enjoyed this one with some brie and Napoleon Brandy.
Hi Mads, Q&A - I’d be interested to learn more about your budget for the whole refit and your timeline for completion and splash along with the breakdown for how you’re breaking down each portion of the project and when you expect to complete each step. Keep up the great work
Q&A question: Besides sanding, what is your superpower? On a serious note, where will you be heading when she's done? Somehow I see Ava walking in the Galápagos Islands, giving us the history and biology of...well, just about everything from formation, geology, Darwin and Lonesome George - the last of his species, who was hatched in 1910 and died in 2012
You could also do a day in the life vlog type vid :) that would be fun to watch and not as difficult to make. we may see some hints of dierent things going on but that's ok.
Having repaired industrial and commercial heavy equipment for 40 years I’ve removed many a broken bolt, when all else fails I drill out the bolt just enough to not touch the threads and then use a series of chisels including a diamond point chisel and slowly work the remaining bits out. Sometimes you get lucky and can “peel” the thin remains of the bolt right out. Cheers and good luck .
When working on stuck bolts make sure you tighten slightly before loosening, or at least apply force in both directions to break free. I've freed many a stuck stud with a welder, but the most stuck ones come out with a chisel. Dig in and give them good raps in both the tightening and loosening directions. Once they're moving you can continue to tap to get them all the way out but it's generally safe to weld something on them at that point for powered removal.
Nice work, unreal how much work you are accomplishing. As a side note SS and aluminum will literally weld themselves together. that is what happened with your heat exchanger and it is likely to happen with you new alternator brackets. I would suggest maybe a thin sheet of plastic or other permanent isolating material between the pieces. Yanmar is re-known for its expensive parts.
Wow! I would think a seasoned Dane could handle 40 degree weather. I’m Danish and live in Upper Michigan as well as working on my Catalina 36 cleaning the bilge in -13 degrees last week. Come on mad you’re Danish. Love your post and look forward to every Sundays program. From frozen Northern Michigan Capt Hansen aboard Gallivant.
Mads, you just do whatever you like with the videos. I am always amazed at how professional your videos are. If you do a Q&A I have been wondering if you are still doing any programming?
I've got to say that cat looks so much more like a boat that will one day be back on the water compared to when you started. It's a remarkable transformation. And the best is yet to come. ☺
Absolutely the best way to remove seized bolts - particularly if they are steel or stainless steel and stuck in aluminium - is a spark eroder. One of them will make the bolt disappear and leave the hole untouched... Pan European motorcycle, cylinder head, exhaust stud. Assembled by Mr Honda in 1994 and not removed by me in 2017... 😆😆 Thanks to a tiny engineering works in the fair town of Swindon in Wiltshire who had the magic necessary I was able to replace the stud and eventually the steel exhaust headers with a stainless equivalent. Thoroughly recommended!
Tough but extremely heartfelt Q&A question... Jokul? I'm certain you miss him more than I do. Maybe a pupdate? Maybe even one day do a dedication video? Obviously I've been watching from the beginning. Also, I'm pissed you came to Kemah and hung out on Native Dancer directly behind me and I had no fricking clue... LOL!
I had the same issue so I called my friend who is an ASE certified mechanic. He removed a few studs that I had broken off flush to the engine block by using the welded nut method. He suggested that since the bolt was not broken flush, that I first try to use a brazing torch (a regular one may work also) to heat the bolt until it was glowing red hot, then cooling the bolt only by spraying it with WD 40. Repeat at least 3 times but more cycles may be needed. The thermal shock will cause the to bolt expand and rapidly shrink, which helps to break it free. Secondly, the lubricant in WD 40 gets sucked up into threads, helping things along. I know it sounds like one of those wonky internet hacks but I was shocked when the bolt unscrewed as if was never rusted.
Try heating the stuck bolts up and melting some crayons or parafin wax into them. For some reason everytime I've been in your situation, wax will unstick the bolt WAY better than penetrating oil.
I’ve seen people remove stuck bolts by welding a nut on and then melting crayon at the thread location. The wax flows into the threads and lubricates the threads. Lubricants and oils evaporate on the surface and don’t wick down into the joint. Worth a try.
17:33 PLENTY of "Oh glorious sanding" and fiberglass to do for content. There's also PLENTY of interior work available "modifying that cabinet area/chart table"
excitement brewing here for cad and send cut send...... don't have anything I need to build (currently) but im looking into CAD programs and learning even prior to this awesome videos conclusion. thx MADS
Q&A - Considering that you guys spend so much time, energy and efforts on boats, but are "on the hard" for the next few years with the "project boat" do you have time to fulfill the dream of cruising full time...anytime soon? Or has the dream changed?
also try again with the nut on bolt, but take a small propane torch to the heat exchanger body and get it hot af. like hot enough to concern you, then smack the top of the bolt with a hammer before trying to turn it **smack straight down on nut not laterally**
Idea for another video, 3D scan the inside of the boat. You can start designing things on the computer. Also, it very much may take more than 3 tries to weld the nut on the broken stud. Nice work this week, good video.
Q&A: From the Athena rebuild you opted for more white paint than I would have, I tend towards the vanished wood finishes. But givren that a cat has much more fibreglass on display, how much tempering of this natuarally white finish do you imagine in order to present a aethetically comfortable living space?
Q&A. Mads, be interested in hearing your thoughts of how to get the boat sorted enough to go back in the water and how you plan to tackle it in what priority.
Hello Mads: You are a hard-earned wealth of information so in your case a Q & A video is invaluable. I have two questions: 1) A few years ago you have installed a Lithuanian (or Estonian, sorry, can't remember) wind steering system on Athena. Would you recommend it? 2) Did you ever install a fuel polishing system on Athena? The one that sucks the fuel from the bottom of the tank and sends it back to the fuel tank? A penny for your thoughts. Thank you. Regards to Ava. Iwona
Q&A: hi Mads, I was surprised to see you buy a couple of standard Yanmar/Hitatchi alternators. Did you consider fitting a couple of high output alternators like a Balmer?
For those stucks bolts, I have seen people heat the stuck bolts and use crayon or cnadle wax. The wax seeps into the threads and releases the stuck bolt/thread.
Q&A I’m sure you’ve covered this before but I suffer from CRS (can’t remember sh*t). Could you take me through the products and technique you use to buff stainless back to it’s former glory. Thanks.
Add another coat or two of paint to the Yanmar air filter covers. They rust just from salt air. Or better yet put on a set of K&N washable after market ones. Lighter and no rusting surfaces.
Q&A (treat yourself to getting out of real time) let's have a lively discussion on what to name the "catamaran" "project boat"! Can Ava join virtually in the video?
Dude just take a week off. We will miss you but I agree the Q&A’s aren’t so good and we will appreciate the great work you do and the quality of your sharing even more by having to wait a week.
Center punch the stuck heat exchanger bolt then drill out with a tiny bit, followed by progressively larger bits until you are close to getting into the female threads of the heat exchanger. (Close without going over like Bob Barker would say on The Price is Right ) Then try the welding trick again. Drilling the center of the bolt significantly relaxes everything and all the heat and vibration involved in all those operations will break the bond of corrosion in the threads. It's always worked for me and I've done a bunch on all kinds of salt abused boat stuff. Just be very careful on the last drill and keep checking your progress. A left hand drill bit will often spin the shell of the broken bolt out when it gets thin leaving you with pristine threads in the hole.
exactly, also on all my motorcycles!.... if the snapped, stuck bolt still protrudes, file is flat first, so the centerpunch can be even more accurate. the drill does not have to reach the threads, just get as close as you feel you're going to get away with.
Q & A - Hi Mads, you used AC360 in this video. It is a complex program to learn. What advice would you have to help someone who has no experience in CAD to learn how to use it? Thank you for all your wonderful videos. I'm a long time follower and I look forward to watching you every week.
🤔 good price on the alternator tensioner bracket. 💡 However, you may have forgotten the additional STORAGE FEE CHARGE, as I'm sure you won't/can't sell them all... instantly. 😊
Aren't you afraid that the RVS316 version of the alternator holder you designed is more weak than steal?? And second question: what is your thought about all these weak build French catamarans?
Q&A Athena Hi Mads ones upon the time you used two different isolations under the deck 🙈 do you have notisen any difference in performance? Do remember a big difference in prise🤔 as usual a god video. 🇸🇪
Drill about 50% of the bolt diameter out then heat it red hot and pound an easy out which is like a square tapered punch about $5 in and you should be able to unscrew it .
18:14 QA on how you're adapting in the US??? 11:38 protip on cad stuff, don't bother with photos OR with any other dimension other than the critical ones (with the added dimension of thickness). On that bracket, for example, measure the round hole, draw it. Then, measure the distance from the hole to the spacing elongated hole, and draw a circle that's the same diameter as the width of the hole in that position. Then measure the width of the elongated hole and copy and move that circle to the other side. Unite them with the proper shape (if it's a curved bracket, you draw two tangent ellipses if it's flat, two tangent lines). For the tricky hole that's at 90, simply measure the diameter and in a second plane add the hole distanced by how much it is from the face, then use an unfold tool (which pretty much every cad system has, either native or as an addon). Then, just add the "meat" around and that's it. No pictures, and all the verbiage above takes less than 3 minutes. Pictures will only slow you down with import, scaling, bla, bla, bla. Doing it from scratch also helps you go crutchless faster.
Q&A: I’ve been an off and on viewer of your videos for 4-5 years now, but missed the ones as to why you spent all those years restoring Athena in order to sail around the world, to instead now spend even more years on rebuilding the CAT you have now?
Q & A Yanmar, Volvo and a couple others are companies to avoid unless you're rich. Kubota (Beta, Nanni) re much more cost effective options. Parts are also much more affordable Have you looked into a repower? There is a lot of value in complete running Yanmars to offset buying new.
Q&A - Gareth here, long time watcher / generally in awe of your ambition, perseverance and patience! I’m about to replace my compression post on my much loved 30 year old Moody 35, parked at Port Solent, UK (you visited once!)… we’ve not seen your compression (if you even have one on a cat?!), can we see how it looks / what you think might need to be done there? Serious structural piece so you want that sound before you even motor any where right?!
You’d love to hear your thoughts!
Gareth
Mads, you are crushing it!
Just wanted to say, you are by far and away my favourite personality behind a screen!
This cat is gonna be amazing when you are finished with her. Take your time and do everything the way you want! All of us just enjoy you doing you :)
QA How many of the boats in that yard are for sale?
Those hatches do indeed look pretty dang spiffy! Well done!
Q&A First, you do what you need to do to make this less stressful because of your desire to please us!!!!
I would love to hear a Q and A and have a request that may be reasonable. If not, no harm if you ignore. You could do a sort of Q and A as you mentioned and as a second episode to buy you another week of buffer you could do a here is the stock vessel, here are the list of areas needing simple, ha ha, repairs, and here are the areas where you are changing the design to fit your needs. Not a deep dive but overview with a sort of roadmap. Seeing what could be and what is in a more self contained video would be cool!
Q&A - I'd love for you to summarize the primary things the new boat will do for you/your family that Athena does not, whether performance or living space etc. As a bonus, are there are any significant downsides to the new boat compared to Athena?
CAD For the win! I started 3D designing for EXACTLY this reason. I was looking for a simple part and the damn thing was like $300. I used Onshape and 3D printed my own for about $3. Besides it taught me a new skill. Keep at it, beat the man!
100%
3d design and printing is by far and away the most useful for manufacturing parts that the oem part is way to much money.
Q/A great job. I'm curious to know what modifications will you make from the original design? They say when you build a custom house you get 100% of what you want. This isn't a brand new build but what improvements are you hoping to make? Structural strengthening? Running AC throughout? Security systems? Lightning protection? Upgraded battery banks? I know you don't have an unlimited budget so you got to pick and choose.
Mads, I remove frozen bolts like that for a living. After welding the nut on the bolt needs to be (torch or inductive) heated to literal incandescence, brighter than cherry red. Keep that heat on, at least 30 seconds or so - careful not to melt the metal. Once there, remove the heat, and let it cool to a duller, more cherry red. Do not apply oil of any kind, it will harden the metal and make it brittle, more prone to shear. As the bolt cools begin applying force, you will get some movement, if you don't, heat cycle it again. Once you have movement of the shank, loosen it until it starts feeling 'tight' again, then (and this is counter-intuitive) tighten the bolt inwards until it feels smooth again before taking it back to the left to loosen it again. This allows the unstuck portion of the threads to start grinding the rusty shmutz in the bore to fine enough particles to allow more movement. Repeat this process, adding heat if it starts getting stubborn again. I have only had a failed extraction with this method a handful of times in close to 30 years.
Your best weapons here are heat and patience.
Always good to catch you on a Sunday doing boat stuff.
I’ve been watching these videos every Sunday for so long that I don’t know what to do without one. So please take that into consideration 😂😂
Agreed. The publishing times for Sail Life's videos is such that I get to watch them just after my evening meal. They have become the highlight of my Sunday's! Just enjoyed this one with some brie and Napoleon Brandy.
Hi Mads, Q&A - I’d be interested to learn more about your budget for the whole refit and your timeline for completion and splash along with the breakdown for how you’re breaking down each portion of the project and when you expect to complete each step. Keep up the great work
Q&A - can we get an update on Jokull? Will the catamaran be big enough for him to live on eventually when restored?
Coming along nicely mads. Another great video 👍👍👍😀😀😀
Totally spiffy locker work nicely done 👍🏻
Q&A question: Besides sanding, what is your superpower?
On a serious note, where will you be heading when she's done? Somehow I see Ava walking in the Galápagos Islands, giving us the history and biology of...well, just about everything from formation, geology, Darwin and Lonesome George - the last of his species, who was hatched in 1910 and died in 2012
You could also do a day in the life vlog type vid :) that would be fun to watch and not as difficult to make. we may see some hints of dierent things going on but that's ok.
Having repaired industrial and commercial heavy equipment for 40 years I’ve removed many a broken bolt, when all else fails I drill out the bolt just enough to not touch the threads and then use a series of chisels including a diamond point chisel and slowly work the remaining bits out. Sometimes you get lucky and can “peel” the thin remains of the bolt right out. Cheers and good luck .
When working on stuck bolts make sure you tighten slightly before loosening, or at least apply force in both directions to break free. I've freed many a stuck stud with a welder, but the most stuck ones come out with a chisel. Dig in and give them good raps in both the tightening and loosening directions. Once they're moving you can continue to tap to get them all the way out but it's generally safe to weld something on them at that point for powered removal.
Thank you for all this , you have a good standard of work , well done
Nice work, unreal how much work you are accomplishing. As a side note SS and aluminum will literally weld themselves together. that is what happened with your heat exchanger and it is likely to happen with you new alternator brackets. I would suggest maybe a thin sheet of plastic or other permanent isolating material between the pieces. Yanmar is re-known for its expensive parts.
Good work, as always. I really enjoy watching your videos every Sundays. Keep it up !
Wow! I would think a seasoned Dane could handle 40 degree weather. I’m Danish and live in Upper Michigan as well as working on my Catalina 36 cleaning the bilge in -13 degrees last week. Come on mad you’re Danish. Love your post and look forward to every Sundays program. From frozen Northern Michigan Capt Hansen aboard Gallivant.
Looking excellent
Your phrases are so corny, but I love them. 😃 I so look forward to your videos every Sunday.
I miss the old Mads that was funny..try to not stress to much. Give us bloopers😂😂
To remove the stud with a low profile, I often use a washer welded to the stud and then weld a nut to the washer and he nut. It does work.
Looks like a wooden step coming out of the trailer is a must. I have really twisted an ankle using a block as a step. Love the channel.
The issue is you are so engrossed in your work that you kind of miss the step and it rolls. 😖
@Rottingboards you 👀 saw that, too 😮
Really all I need to do is to pick up another cinder block - I already have a plank I can use. I just keep forgetting 🙂
Was thinking the same thing
Mads, you just do whatever you like with the videos. I am always amazed at how professional your videos are. If you do a Q&A I have been wondering if you are still doing any programming?
I've got to say that cat looks so much more like a boat that will one day be back on the water compared to when you started. It's a remarkable transformation. And the best is yet to come. ☺
Q&A Do you have any ideas of what you might name the Catamaran? P.s. Captain Dumb Dumb is my hero 👌🏻
Mads! Nice beanie! Welcome to the Deeeeetroit City sports family!
Absolutely the best way to remove seized bolts - particularly if they are steel or stainless steel and stuck in aluminium - is a spark eroder.
One of them will make the bolt disappear and leave the hole untouched...
Pan European motorcycle, cylinder head, exhaust stud. Assembled by Mr Honda in 1994 and not removed by me in 2017... 😆😆
Thanks to a tiny engineering works in the fair town of Swindon in Wiltshire who had the magic necessary I was able to replace the stud and eventually the steel exhaust headers with a stainless equivalent.
Thoroughly recommended!
Tough but extremely heartfelt Q&A question... Jokul? I'm certain you miss him more than I do. Maybe a pupdate? Maybe even one day do a dedication video? Obviously I've been watching from the beginning. Also, I'm pissed you came to Kemah and hung out on Native Dancer directly behind me and I had no fricking clue... LOL!
I had the same issue so I called my friend who is an ASE certified mechanic. He removed a few studs that I had broken off flush to the engine block by using the welded nut method.
He suggested that since the bolt was not broken flush, that I first try to use a brazing torch (a regular one may work also) to heat the bolt until it was glowing red hot, then cooling the bolt only by spraying it with WD 40. Repeat at least 3 times but more cycles may be needed. The thermal shock will cause the to bolt expand and rapidly shrink, which helps to break it free. Secondly, the lubricant in WD 40 gets sucked up into threads, helping things along.
I know it sounds like one of those wonky internet hacks but I was shocked when the bolt unscrewed as if was never rusted.
Q&A how do you intend on doing the interior cabinets. Will you be making them yourself getting in a carpenter or buy replacement from the factory ?
Try heating the stuck bolts up and melting some crayons or parafin wax into them. For some reason everytime I've been in your situation, wax will unstick the bolt WAY better than penetrating oil.
Excellent episode!
Many Yammar washers, o-rings, and bushings are standard metric hardware. The 3GM 30f series parts manual often listed the sizes of these pieces
I’ve seen people remove stuck bolts by welding a nut on and then melting crayon at the thread location. The wax flows into the threads and lubricates the threads. Lubricants and oils evaporate on the surface and don’t wick down into the joint. Worth a try.
👍🏻 also, drill a 'small' hole in the center of the broken bolt WILL release any pressure.
Great video, better than a Q&A. Either way I’ll be tuning in. Great work as always, keep it up!
Mads, you are Danish, Im Croatian tonight its a match made in haven. Let the best team win. Hope you are waching as well. 😊
Best of luck! Although I hope we'll win ;) ❤
Q and A video would be great.
Great drive Mads !
Thank you! 🙂
Love the Old English "D" cap. Go Tigers.
It was a gift from Ava’s parents - they’re from Detroit 🙂
I was going to comment the same thing. Who knew Mads was such an awesome fashion accessorized! Haha! Go Tigers!
17:33 PLENTY of "Oh glorious sanding" and fiberglass to do for content. There's also PLENTY of interior work available "modifying that cabinet area/chart table"
excitement brewing here for cad and send cut send...... don't have anything I need to build (currently) but im looking into CAD programs and learning even prior to this awesome videos conclusion. thx MADS
Q&A - Considering that you guys spend so much time, energy and efforts on boats, but are "on the hard" for the next few years with the "project boat" do you have time to fulfill the dream of cruising full time...anytime soon? Or has the dream changed?
also try again with the nut on bolt, but take a small propane torch to the heat exchanger body and get it hot af. like hot enough to concern you, then smack the top of the bolt with a hammer before trying to turn it **smack straight down on nut not laterally**
Idea for another video, 3D scan the inside of the boat. You can start designing things on the computer. Also, it very much may take more than 3 tries to weld the nut on the broken stud. Nice work this week, good video.
Q&A: From the Athena rebuild you opted for more white paint than I would have, I tend towards the vanished wood finishes. But givren that a cat has much more fibreglass on display, how much tempering of this natuarally white finish do you imagine in order to present a aethetically comfortable living space?
Q&A. Mads, be interested in hearing your thoughts of how to get the boat sorted enough to go back in the water and how you plan to tackle it in what priority.
Godd to see you in a Detroit Tigers beanie on …hope to see you sailing up in Michigan one year.
Love the eff you Yanmar, I'll make my own dam bracket!
I, too, use the thickness of stir sticks for measuring. Mine are metric, you know, like my crescent wrench.
Great looking Detroit Tigers hat! I wonder who you got that from?
Stainless bracket for the engine??? Is there an incompatibility issue with the engine and the stainless?? Always enjoy the content
Thanks :) There will be no issue having the bracket in stainless :)
Hello Mads: You are a hard-earned wealth of information so in your case a Q & A video is invaluable. I have two questions: 1) A few years ago you have installed a Lithuanian (or Estonian, sorry, can't remember) wind steering system on Athena. Would you recommend it? 2) Did you ever install a fuel polishing system on Athena? The one that sucks the fuel from the bottom of the tank and sends it back to the fuel tank? A penny for your thoughts. Thank you. Regards to Ava. Iwona
Q & A .. What software are you using for your CAD parts?
Q&A: hi Mads, I was surprised to see you buy a couple of standard Yanmar/Hitatchi alternators. Did you consider fitting a couple of high output alternators like a Balmer?
For those stucks bolts, I have seen people heat the stuck bolts and use crayon or cnadle wax. The wax seeps into the threads and releases the stuck bolt/thread.
Q&a how's the copper coat holding up on Athena?
How are the donated/sponsored snubbers holding up?
Q&A
I’m sure you’ve covered this before but I suffer from CRS (can’t remember sh*t). Could you take me through the products and technique you use to buff stainless back to it’s former glory. Thanks.
Add another coat or two of paint to the Yanmar air filter covers. They rust just from salt air. Or better yet put on a set of K&N washable after market ones. Lighter and no rusting surfaces.
Q&A (treat yourself to getting out of real time) let's have a lively discussion on what to name the "catamaran" "project boat"! Can Ava join virtually in the video?
Just a thought. Abom 79 is a RUclips creator and machinist he has a shop somewhere around Pensacola I believe may be a good collab.
Dude just take a week off. We will miss you but I agree the Q&A’s aren’t so good and we will appreciate the great work you do and the quality of your sharing even more by having to wait a week.
How about a video on fiberglass repairs? I know you show many, as I have seen I'm sure all. But maybe how to treat cracks, vs holes, or something.
Yanmar prices are absolutely crazy and you are smart to use alternative parts when possible.
Center punch the stuck heat exchanger bolt then drill out with a tiny bit, followed by progressively larger bits until you are close to getting into the female threads of the heat exchanger. (Close without going over like Bob Barker would say on The Price is Right ) Then try the welding trick again. Drilling the center of the bolt significantly relaxes everything and all the heat and vibration involved in all those operations will break the bond of corrosion in the threads. It's always worked for me and I've done a bunch on all kinds of salt abused boat stuff. Just be very careful on the last drill and keep checking your progress. A left hand drill bit will often spin the shell of the broken bolt out when it gets thin leaving you with pristine threads in the hole.
exactly, also on all my motorcycles!.... if the snapped, stuck bolt still protrudes, file is flat first, so the centerpunch can be even more accurate. the drill does not have to reach the threads, just get as close as you feel you're going to get away with.
You might try an easy out into the mix but hold it in the chuck of a pillar drill and apply torque manually to ensure it doesn’t break free.
Q & A - Hi Mads, you used AC360 in this video. It is a complex program to learn. What advice would you have to help someone who has no experience in CAD to learn how to use it? Thank you for all your wonderful videos. I'm a long time follower and I look forward to watching you every week.
Love the Detroit Tigers winter hat!
Go ahead “toot” your horn! Looks great! 👍
🤔 good price on the alternator tensioner bracket. 💡 However, you may have forgotten the additional STORAGE FEE CHARGE, as I'm sure you won't/can't sell them all... instantly. 😊
What? Are they renting vault space at Fort Knox?
Skip a week, I never watch Q&A's
Also, I watch a ton of youtube and your productions is outstanding.
Q&A: Why are the slots for the hinges longer than the hinges themselves? Looks like a big gap at the end, no? Love ya, Mads!
Giant bolty thingy = standoff. have fun
Good move taking the heat exchanger to the machine shop.
As Millwright I fabricated my own bracket and tensioner
That makes sense 🙂
I have learned so much from your videos. Thank you for being so willing to share.
I'm glad you've found them helpful! 🙂
When you are done refurbishing the old catamaran maybe look at converting that trailer to something else. It does already have a bow....
Aren't you afraid that the RVS316 version of the alternator holder you designed is more weak than steal?? And second question: what is your thought about all these weak build French catamarans?
Q&A Athena Hi Mads ones upon the time you used two different isolations under the deck 🙈 do you have notisen any difference in performance? Do remember a big difference in prise🤔 as usual a god video. 🇸🇪
Tramp ramp is definitely a big step away from "derelict"!
Drill about 50% of the bolt diameter out then heat it red hot and pound an easy out which is like a square tapered punch about $5 in and you should be able to unscrew it .
How about installing the motors in the next video? You can easily add those small parts later.
Q and A..Did Bryan throw the engine parts out? Is there a port engine and a starboard engine to obtain counter rotating props?
18:14 QA on how you're adapting in the US???
11:38 protip on cad stuff, don't bother with photos OR with any other dimension other than the critical ones (with the added dimension of thickness). On that bracket, for example, measure the round hole, draw it. Then, measure the distance from the hole to the spacing elongated hole, and draw a circle that's the same diameter as the width of the hole in that position. Then measure the width of the elongated hole and copy and move that circle to the other side. Unite them with the proper shape (if it's a curved bracket, you draw two tangent ellipses if it's flat, two tangent lines). For the tricky hole that's at 90, simply measure the diameter and in a second plane add the hole distanced by how much it is from the face, then use an unfold tool (which pretty much every cad system has, either native or as an addon). Then, just add the "meat" around and that's it. No pictures, and all the verbiage above takes less than 3 minutes. Pictures will only slow you down with import, scaling, bla, bla, bla. Doing it from scratch also helps you go crutchless faster.
Maybe that wider engine hose clamp thingmy goes on the outer end of that funny looking alternator pivot bolt.... ?
after heating and after welding a nut on try using a crayon as your lubricant the wax penetrates better than sprays
Hi ! Q&A 😉
Q&A: I’ve been an off and on viewer of your videos for 4-5 years now, but missed the ones as to why you spent all those years restoring Athena in order to sail around the world, to instead now spend even more years on rebuilding the CAT you have now?
Me think Mads is an engineer, they build and fix things.
After polishing your chrome hardware use some shark hide so it will retain its shine for a year without any further maintenance.
Q and A is fine.. when do you anticipate moving this to the next dry dock to get closer to water?
That’s Slack Lazy Ass LEOPARD with the dry glass spots.
Why don’t you tell us how you really feel? 😉🙂 Yes, it’s completely nuts for something like that to get past QA. Very embarrassing for them!
316 might be a bit soft for a bracket >> W 44 would work well >>>> great work and skills Mads
A induction heat bolt removal tool could well do the trixk. They cost about 150,- USD or maybe you can borrow one somewhere..
Q & A
Yanmar, Volvo and a couple others are companies to avoid unless you're rich.
Kubota (Beta, Nanni) re much more cost effective options.
Parts are also much more affordable
Have you looked into a repower?
There is a lot of value in complete running Yanmars to offset buying new.
You are an example of patience.
You could use one of your Athena videos as a buffer.
Q/A how has the 3d print journey gone and what do you think of using cad and services like sendcut send
Q&A: how did you first get introduced to sailing?