I appreciate the video, just installed a used cluster for my 95 Nissan Pathfinder in which had more miles than the original cluster. This was very helpful. Thanks!
I also swapped the cluster out on my 1990 corolla wagon. I drive an auto and it doesn’t have a tachometer. The manual one does. I didn’t have to adjust the mileage like you did, I just took my old speedometer out of the cluster and put it in the new one. Works great. Had to swap faceplates, but it was no biggie.
@last426 When you are lining it up you have to be really careful that it looks right in the display before you bolt it all back together. The other thing you can do is set it up below what you want and then use a hand drill to run it up the number you are wanting (you can see how the numbers are lining up as you run it up with the hand drill and make adjustments as you go on the number barrel.)
An observation about pushing the rod out. I do not think it's necessary at all. It's a risk to break something. You do not need to push that rod out. I follow the steps described here and figure out at the end that it's not necessary. The reason why is: if you have to press and hold the little plastic clip in order to turn the dial to the desired number to adjust it, you can still do so with the rod on which makes the adjustment a breeze! Instead of using your finger to move or turn the dial, use a plastic flat head object, like those used to take screens off the cellphones, iPods... and that will do the work without risking breaking anything specially those little plastic clips the rod pass through... I hope it helps. I tried that after I followed the described procedures, successful! Thank you for this video, btw, it was helpful very much to do my adjustment. I just found the explained observation to make the adjustment even easier!
Yes, it will. If you are swapping dash cluster - moving from a idiot light to a sweep gauge you will need to change the oil pressure sending unit to the correct one for the sweep gauge and chase the oil pressure wire from one pin to the other on the back of the new cluster.
@scallly64 I can only speak for my State's laws. That's why I have the big disclaimer at the beginning of the video. Generally speaking you can correct an odometer and if you are making a replacement match an original you are fine, but if you actually change the mileage (like zeroing it out for new engine or something) you need to brand the title to the vehicle for odometer discrepancy.) But it's your responsibility to check with your State's laws regarding odometer correction.
The speedo is totally mechanical so I would bet that you didn't get it clipped back into the housing all the way and it's not engaging the mechanism in the instrument cluster. The speedo wire that drives the needle is actually square in shape with a pointed end and sometimes it takes some work to get it back in correctly.
You should have taken the faceplate off. Less chances of breaking something. Just pull the needle straight out and it comes off. It’s the only thing holding the faceplate on after you take the two black screws off.
I've tried to pull the needle off, pry/leverage from the back, and I haven't gotten one needle to even budge. Any harder and experience tells me it will break. I'm not sure how you accomplished this. The adjustment in the video was easy.... ive pulled faceplates off the altimeter (similar design) and they were no where near as wedged on.
So I know there is a screw for the tach to be hooked up to the back cluster. However, is there a screw for oil pressure sensor to be screwed to on the back of the sr5 cluster? I believe I am missing the wiring for the oil pressure sensor, i wonder if I can run my own wire from the sensor to the cluster.
Toyota used two different oil pressure sending units depending on the dash. One was for the idiot light style and the other for sweep gauge style. You have to match the oil pressure sending unit to the dash then you hook up the existing wire that goes to the engine. If you hook the wrong sending unit to the wrong dash you can blow out the sweep gauge on the SR5 dash.
Been a while, but worth a try. Is this process similar on most Toyota vehicles? Got a 94 JZS147 Aristo. Bought a TRD cluster for it, need to roll back the mileage.
I couldn't say on the newer ones. I would bet they made them more difficult to deal with as time went along. Honestly, these days I would probably just document the old cluster mileage and the new cluster mileage and keep a record of it and not mess with it. You can just tell your insurance what you are having to do (replacing busted cluster) if that is a concern (they might freak out if you report a wildly different mileage number down the line.) I've currently got a stuck odometer in my wheeling rig (trip meter works, but the total mileage isn't advancing past the single miles roller.) Guess I'm going to be tearing into that one soon.
On the topic of the gauge cluster...I have an 85 SR5 with the factory tach. When I bought the truck, the tach was working perfectly fine for about a month. After the first month of owning it, the tach stopped working and hasn’t worked since. Any ideas or way to check if the tach is bad or just some wiring? Would love to get the factory one running instead of bolting one somewhere on my dash
I would get out the volt meter and start tracing wiring back from the tack and see if it's getting signal. It's either a wire has come loose or the tach has just died. The dash is pretty easy to remove from that year of truck to get to the harness and the back of the dash for testing.
Hello, I have a problem, my car is a Toyota 1985 diesel base and I did the cluster change for a fuel sr5, I can not get the rpm to work, can you help me?
It's been a long time since I did this video, but with what you have going on, you may have to dissassemble the odometer even further to get into the guts to line it up. Try dialing it back to before where you want it and then using a hand drill to advance it. If it's getting off, move the digits back a click. I'm thinking at this point though you may need to dissassemble the thing down further and remove the specific gears and reset them. It's a pain in the butt, but it can be done.
I tried adjusting a 87 sr5 odo to match the current miles on my truck, for some reason after doing it like you show the numbers are misaligned. First it was the 5th digit but the more I try to get them in line the worse it has gotten. Anything I can do at this point or is it screwed?
I tried and tried but now my highest digits (most important ones) won't begin to line up. I have clicked the hundred thousand around about 4 times and it still reads between the 1 and the 2 -- it should read a one. Same with the thousands and ten thousands. Any suggestions? Thanks.
you say at the begining of the first video not to switch form a 6cyl model to a 4cyl model why is this? I am about to replace my 22re dash with a 3.0L dash, speedo is cable drive, and dash is exact same could you explain why it won't work properly? what if I replace just the speedo / odometer because that's my issue, is that fine?
The only ones that are going to be plug n play are identical clusters from same model runs. Everything else requires wiring to be moved around. You gotta figure out which wire goes where and then move them around in the plugs. For example SR5 clusters will fit into non-sr5 trucks of the same series, but you have to move some of the wiring around in the back to make all the stuff work. It's not too difficult. If you do go with an SR5 cluster that has a mechanical oil pressure gauge, you also HAVE to switch the oil pressure sending unit on the block to match. If you use the original sending unit that was for a single warning light you'll blow your gauge on the SR5 dash out.
i just did this but now my spedo will only hit 20km and the t-belt light is on? any idears i would like this to be fixed as i dont want any speeding tickets ha
You mean the seat-belt light? If so that's got to be a wiring connection somewhere. As for the spedo, it's probably that you didn't get the connector fully engaged with the back of the cluster. It's a square-drive connection with the flexible shaft so you have to be careful when you hook it back up to make sure it's engaged property and then you need to make sure you fully snap it into place.
I appreciate the video, just installed a used cluster for my 95 Nissan Pathfinder in which had more miles than the original cluster. This was very helpful. Thanks!
I also swapped the cluster out on my 1990 corolla wagon. I drive an auto and it doesn’t have a tachometer. The manual one does. I didn’t have to adjust the mileage like you did, I just took my old speedometer out of the cluster and put it in the new one. Works great. Had to swap faceplates, but it was no biggie.
Thanks! Now i won’t have to wait 5k more miles to swap in the Sr5 gauge set i bought.👍🏻
@last426 When you are lining it up you have to be really careful that it looks right in the display before you bolt it all back together. The other thing you can do is set it up below what you want and then use a hand drill to run it up the number you are wanting (you can see how the numbers are lining up as you run it up with the hand drill and make adjustments as you go on the number barrel.)
An observation about pushing the rod out. I do not think it's necessary at all. It's a risk to break something. You do not need to push that rod out. I follow the steps described here and figure out at the end that it's not necessary. The reason why is: if you have to press and hold the little plastic clip in order to turn the dial to the desired number to adjust it, you can still do so with the rod on which makes the adjustment a breeze! Instead of using your finger to move or turn the dial, use a plastic flat head object, like those used to take screens off the cellphones, iPods... and that will do the work without risking breaking anything specially those little plastic clips the rod pass through... I hope it helps. I tried that after I followed the described procedures, successful! Thank you for this video, btw, it was helpful very much to do my adjustment. I just found the explained observation to make the adjustment even easier!
Good deal! Thanks for the heads' up.
I can’t properly picture what you’re trying to explain. I want to be able to do this to my truck without pushing out the rod @chaviator
thanks a lot for taking the time to do this. I followed the directions while working on it on my desk and it worked perfectly. thanks so much!!!!
thanks for posting this up. Way less time intensive than adding 160k onto the sr5 odo.
Yes, it will. If you are swapping dash cluster - moving from a idiot light to a sweep gauge you will need to change the oil pressure sending unit to the correct one for the sweep gauge and chase the oil pressure wire from one pin to the other on the back of the new cluster.
thanks for showing me but not what was looking for
@scallly64 I can only speak for my State's laws. That's why I have the big disclaimer at the beginning of the video. Generally speaking you can correct an odometer and if you are making a replacement match an original you are fine, but if you actually change the mileage (like zeroing it out for new engine or something) you need to brand the title to the vehicle for odometer discrepancy.) But it's your responsibility to check with your State's laws regarding odometer correction.
Another great video! For Sale 84 FJ60 - 0 Miles, $50,000 :-) I used the Ferris Bueller method. Hahaha!
The speedo is totally mechanical so I would bet that you didn't get it clipped back into the housing all the way and it's not engaging the mechanism in the instrument cluster. The speedo wire that drives the needle is actually square in shape with a pointed end and sometimes it takes some work to get it back in correctly.
You should have taken the faceplate off. Less chances of breaking something. Just pull the needle straight out and it comes off. It’s the only thing holding the faceplate on after you take the two black screws off.
I've tried to pull the needle off, pry/leverage from the back, and I haven't gotten one needle to even budge. Any harder and experience tells me it will break. I'm not sure how you accomplished this. The adjustment in the video was easy.... ive pulled faceplates off the altimeter (similar design) and they were no where near as wedged on.
So I know there is a screw for the tach to be hooked up to the back cluster. However, is there a screw for oil pressure sensor to be screwed to on the back of the sr5 cluster? I believe I am missing the wiring for the oil pressure sensor, i wonder if I can run my own wire from the sensor to the cluster.
Toyota used two different oil pressure sending units depending on the dash. One was for the idiot light style and the other for sweep gauge style. You have to match the oil pressure sending unit to the dash then you hook up the existing wire that goes to the engine. If you hook the wrong sending unit to the wrong dash you can blow out the sweep gauge on the SR5 dash.
How do you remove the needles off of these gauges? I feel like Im breaking something by prying them off
Been a while, but worth a try.
Is this process similar on most Toyota vehicles? Got a 94 JZS147 Aristo. Bought a TRD cluster for it, need to roll back the mileage.
I couldn't say on the newer ones. I would bet they made them more difficult to deal with as time went along. Honestly, these days I would probably just document the old cluster mileage and the new cluster mileage and keep a record of it and not mess with it. You can just tell your insurance what you are having to do (replacing busted cluster) if that is a concern (they might freak out if you report a wildly different mileage number down the line.) I've currently got a stuck odometer in my wheeling rig (trip meter works, but the total mileage isn't advancing past the single miles roller.) Guess I'm going to be tearing into that one soon.
On the topic of the gauge cluster...I have an 85 SR5 with the factory tach. When I bought the truck, the tach was working perfectly fine for about a month. After the first month of owning it, the tach stopped working and hasn’t worked since. Any ideas or way to check if the tach is bad or just some wiring? Would love to get the factory one running instead of bolting one somewhere on my dash
I would get out the volt meter and start tracing wiring back from the tack and see if it's getting signal. It's either a wire has come loose or the tach has just died. The dash is pretty easy to remove from that year of truck to get to the harness and the back of the dash for testing.
Hello, I have a problem, my car is a Toyota 1985 diesel base and I did the cluster change for a fuel sr5, I can not get the rpm to work, can you help me?
It's been a long time since I did this video, but with what you have going on, you may have to dissassemble the odometer even further to get into the guts to line it up. Try dialing it back to before where you want it and then using a hand drill to advance it. If it's getting off, move the digits back a click. I'm thinking at this point though you may need to dissassemble the thing down further and remove the specific gears and reset them. It's a pain in the butt, but it can be done.
I tried adjusting a 87 sr5 odo to match the current miles on my truck, for some reason after doing it like you show the numbers are misaligned. First it was the 5th digit but the more I try to get them in line the worse it has gotten. Anything I can do at this point or is it screwed?
I tried and tried but now my highest digits (most important ones) won't begin to line up. I have clicked the hundred thousand around about 4 times and it still reads between the 1 and the 2 -- it should read a one. Same with the thousands and ten thousands. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Sir, do you know if a 92 4runner 4cyl will fit my 93 toyo pickup 4cyl? Thank you
will a v6 auto cluster work in a 4cy 5speed >???? if not why not ?
you say at the begining of the first video not to switch form a 6cyl model to a 4cyl model why is this? I am about to replace my 22re dash with a 3.0L dash, speedo is cable drive, and dash is exact same could you explain why it won't work properly? what if I replace just the speedo / odometer because that's my issue, is that fine?
Wiring harnesses are different between 4cyl and 6cyl. Tachometer's are taking different readings, etc. Replacing just the speedo might work though.
The tach can be adjusted. There are videos that can show you how.
ey man what all did u have to do to make the cluster work i have a 88 pickup n wanna install is it just plug n play
The only ones that are going to be plug n play are identical clusters from same model runs. Everything else requires wiring to be moved around. You gotta figure out which wire goes where and then move them around in the plugs. For example SR5 clusters will fit into non-sr5 trucks of the same series, but you have to move some of the wiring around in the back to make all the stuff work. It's not too difficult. If you do go with an SR5 cluster that has a mechanical oil pressure gauge, you also HAVE to switch the oil pressure sending unit on the block to match. If you use the original sending unit that was for a single warning light you'll blow your gauge on the SR5 dash out.
i just did this but now my spedo will only hit 20km and the t-belt light is on? any idears i would like this to be fixed as i dont want any speeding tickets ha
You mean the seat-belt light? If so that's got to be a wiring connection somewhere. As for the spedo, it's probably that you didn't get the connector fully engaged with the back of the cluster. It's a square-drive connection with the flexible shaft so you have to be careful when you hook it back up to make sure it's engaged property and then you need to make sure you fully snap it into place.