Thank you John. We were just puzzling over how a digitizer got a tree to flow together without a trim. You have answered the question. Your videos have taught us so much. We are a mother son team, and we are having so much fun.
We are so lucky to have you continue to stay active in teaching techniques in digitizing. The information is so wonderful and always useful. I really love that we can access your videos and watch them over and over till we understand the concept. When 2 digitizers are asking questions to each other it shows trust and sharing your secrets allows us to learn. Thank you for all you do!
Yes, yes, yes ,yes and yes................Thank you.... I’d Struggled with this for years until I figured it out.... so wish I’d had your video sooner but I’m so glad that you are sharing for those that still struggle with digitizing as I still do on some things. I love the fact that this video verifies I’m on the right path. 🙂 Keep the videos coming.
Not sure if you guys gives a damn but if you guys are bored like me during the covid times then you can watch all of the latest movies and series on InstaFlixxer. Been streaming with my girlfriend these days =)
I spent several hours last night in 6D software doing exactly what you just demonstrated in a few minutes in Hatch software. Seems switching to Hatch will eventually save me digitizing time, after I train my brain and get comfortable with Hatch. Thanks. Feels good hearing your terminology which I totally understand. I liken this feeling to being in a foreign country and hearing an occasional conversation in my mother-tongue. Sweet Spirit.
Love it.. I do this. BUT... My brother think hé has to start, cut my thread, every time. How do i tell my brother, software, not to do this. I think it is so simple, that i do. Not see it😩. I use bernina V 8. And some time wilcom e 4 from a friend
Great Video, I hope every digitizer out there watches this. This was how I was trained in the first place. I've even had people ask me why I run a running stitch over to another area instead of creating a jump stitch, and I ask them how they feel about cutting jumps. It does not matter to me that my machine has an auto trimmer for jumps, I leave it turned off, it drives me crazy, and when I tried using auto-connect, I didn't like the fact that it just seemed to take and make a straight line over to the next area and you ended up manually moving those stitches anyway, so I have stayed with manually moving the stitches myself.
Thank you, such a timely lesson as I have been trying to get to grips with trims and understanding why start and stop points are so important. This lesson helped me enormously.
Thank you John, I was just struggling with this same problem yesterday! I have a pre-digitized design that I wanted to make some modifications to so I could combine it with another. For the life of me I could not move some start and stop points, they always bounced back to the original location. I discovered by trial and error that it was created with digitized blocks - I played around and did a workaround as you have done here. I also discovered that by changing some of the smaller areas to a "satin stitch only" by removing the additional angles I was able to achieve my goal. I still have one burning questions that I was not able to figure out. Why is it that on some pre-digitized (purchased) designs when I try to go in and take a look at the "object properties" it will only allow me to see the screen panel that shows trims and connections, there is nowhere I can see the stitch type and all the properties of that stitch type?
I have a file I need help with! I love your videos and have learned so much. But have a question about a logo that has a triple stitch outline, and it is digitized to sew out after the satin stitch object it is outlining, but I could path it better if the triple stitch went first...just not sure if that is suggested as it could maybe misalign? It's a large jacket back logo with only 2 colors but has 77 trims. So frustrating. :( The owner of the design doesn't want changes to her logo, naturally, but the digitized file she provided for me is just crazy pathing and so many starts and stops for what seems like a fairly simple design.
Joolz Bohr I could take a look at it and see if it is “good” video material. The big issue being you would need permission from the own that I use it for and educational video. If the answer is yes I’d be happy to take a look at the file.
I use Hatch and often make mistake to expect the Block tool to be set on satin as default. Instead it use the settings that the previously object used. So if I make a satin and chose Open shape and then go back to Block tool its set to contour. Very annoying. I have used Hatch for 18 months now and have never ever used Block tool to make a contour. The solution is to use blank space. You set Block tool to satin and when the object is done and you need a transport line you hit blank space and you will get the run stitch. When that line is done hit the blank space again and now the Block tool is still on satin. But how many times I forget this at first. I would love the Block tool to have satin, or tatami as default. It seems more logic. I know I can just choose fill and set to satin when I did wrong but then it’s no longer a block tool object, its converted to Closed shape and I have to manually add Stitch angles. The other thing is the Florentine effect. It cannot be bent as I like it to be. Sometimes I like it to almost be a circle or a very wavy form. To a certain point it works but suddenly it pops back to its start position. You have no idea when it will do that so it’s trial after trial til you think you did as bent as it could be. I love this feature its’s so much better than the one in Embird but sometimes it fails to do what I want. The third thing is that I would like to decide the angel of the tatami underlay. And sometimes I like a contour underlay in my satins. Embird has this feature. It’s great when you have a very big circle of satin, most often set at tatami fill. The zigzag underlay only add to the puckering of the fabric while the contour is stabilizing. As you say no software is perfect but specially the Block tool causes a lot extra time to make the stitch files when i have to do the objects two times. And as I understand it’s the same thing in the big software and that is a commercial software thought to be quick and easy.
Thank you John. We were just puzzling over how a digitizer got a tree to flow together without a trim. You have answered the question. Your videos have taught us so much. We are a mother son team, and we are having so much fun.
Bonnie Kinser thanks for watching, great to be working with family... kids are our pride and joy :)
We are so lucky to have you continue to stay active in teaching techniques in digitizing. The information is so wonderful and always useful. I really love that we can access your videos and watch them over and over till we understand the concept. When 2 digitizers are asking questions to each other it shows trust and sharing your secrets allows us to learn. Thank you for all you do!
Jan Temple thanks so much for you words of encouragement :)
Yes, yes, yes ,yes and yes................Thank you.... I’d Struggled with this for years until I figured it out.... so wish I’d had your video sooner but I’m so glad that you are sharing for those that still struggle with digitizing as I still do on some things. I love the fact that this video verifies I’m on the right path. 🙂 Keep the videos coming.
E Kearley-Blake I’ll do my best, thanks for watching :)
Not sure if you guys gives a damn but if you guys are bored like me during the covid times then you can watch all of the latest movies and series on InstaFlixxer. Been streaming with my girlfriend these days =)
@Bo Marshall Yup, I have been watching on instaflixxer for since november myself :)
I spent several hours last night in 6D software doing exactly what you just demonstrated in a few minutes in Hatch software. Seems switching to Hatch will eventually save me digitizing time, after I train my brain and get comfortable with Hatch. Thanks. Feels good hearing your terminology which I totally understand. I liken this feeling to being in a foreign country and hearing an occasional conversation in my mother-tongue. Sweet Spirit.
Love it.. I do this. BUT... My brother think hé has to start, cut my thread, every time. How do i tell my brother, software, not to do this. I think it is so simple, that i do. Not see it😩. I use bernina V 8. And some time wilcom e 4 from a friend
Great Video, I hope every digitizer out there watches this. This was how I was trained in the first place. I've even had people ask me why I run a running stitch over to another area instead of creating a jump stitch, and I ask them how they feel about cutting jumps. It does not matter to me that my machine has an auto trimmer for jumps, I leave it turned off, it drives me crazy, and when I tried using auto-connect, I didn't like the fact that it just seemed to take and make a straight line over to the next area and you ended up manually moving those stitches anyway, so I have stayed with manually moving the stitches myself.
Thanks John. As always I am blown away by the knowledge I attain watching your videos. Be Blessed!
Vimla Govender Thanks :)
Thank you, such a timely lesson as I have been trying to get to grips with trims and understanding why start and stop points are so important. This lesson helped me enormously.
Gill Scarisbrick Glad to be of some help :)
Thank you so much John for that excellent video. You always do great job of everything. Now that was good to know about jump stitches.
Thank you.
Yes.. Thanks for the video..
Great video!!!
Thank you John, I was just struggling with this same problem yesterday! I have a pre-digitized design that I wanted to make some modifications to so I could combine it with another. For the life of me I could not move some start and stop points, they always bounced back to the original location. I discovered by trial and error that it was created with digitized blocks - I played around and did a workaround as you have done here. I also discovered that by changing some of the smaller areas to a "satin stitch only" by removing the additional angles I was able to achieve my goal. I still have one burning questions that I was not able to figure out. Why is it that on some pre-digitized (purchased) designs when I try to go in and take a look at the "object properties" it will only allow me to see the screen panel that shows trims and connections, there is nowhere I can see the stitch type and all the properties of that stitch type?
Good video thanks
#embroidery #digitizing Great video as always!
Angela Perez Thanks :)
I have a file I need help with! I love your videos and have learned so much. But have a question about a logo that has a triple stitch outline, and it is digitized to sew out after the satin stitch object it is outlining, but I could path it better if the triple stitch went first...just not sure if that is suggested as it could maybe misalign? It's a large jacket back logo with only 2 colors but has 77 trims. So frustrating. :( The owner of the design doesn't want changes to her logo, naturally, but the digitized file she provided for me is just crazy pathing and so many starts and stops for what seems like a fairly simple design.
Joolz Bohr I could take a look at it and see if it is “good” video material. The big issue being you would need permission from the own that I use it for and educational video. If the answer is yes I’d be happy to take a look at the file.
@@EmbroideryLegacy okay! Thank you! I'll contact the owner today.
yes over and over
I'm editing a file right now and I can't edit a stitch from the sequence, how do I remove a part of a stitch line.
I use Hatch and often make mistake to expect the Block tool to be set on satin as default.
Instead it use the settings that the previously object used.
So if I make a satin and chose Open shape and then go back to Block tool its set to contour.
Very annoying.
I have used Hatch for 18 months now and have never ever used Block tool to make a contour.
The solution is to use blank space. You set Block tool to satin and when the object is done and you need a transport line you hit blank space and you will get the run stitch. When that line is done hit the blank space again and now the Block tool is still on satin. But how many times I forget this at first.
I would love the Block tool to have satin, or tatami as default. It seems more logic.
I know I can just choose fill and set to satin when I did wrong but then it’s no longer a block tool object, its converted to Closed shape and I have to manually add Stitch angles.
The other thing is the Florentine effect.
It cannot be bent as I like it to be. Sometimes I like it to almost be a circle or a very wavy form. To a certain point it works but suddenly it pops back to its start position. You have no idea when it will do that so it’s trial after trial til you think you did as bent as it could be.
I love this feature its’s so much better than the one in Embird but sometimes it fails to do what I want.
The third thing is that I would like to decide the angel of the tatami underlay.
And sometimes I like a contour underlay in my satins. Embird has this feature. It’s great when you have a very big circle of satin, most often set at tatami fill. The zigzag underlay only add to the puckering of the fabric while the contour is stabilizing.
As you say no software is perfect but specially the Block tool causes a lot extra time to make the stitch files when i have to do the objects two times. And as I understand it’s the same thing in the big software and that is a commercial software thought to be quick and easy.
Yes
Yes
Yes
Yes