Blacksmithing-Forging my First Knife Blades
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- This is only my second attempt to forge a knife blade on my own without input from a tutor.
I hope you enjoy it. I recognize that I have yet lots to learn but it's exciting to record my journey and share it with you.
Thank you to my Patrons:
/ vahidcullsberg
Link to the 3000 subs Give Away knife: (Knife Sheath)
• Moose Antler and Stack...
Knife Handle:
• Give-Away Handmade Knife
Unboxing the blade:
• Unboxing Give-Aways 30...
@WalterSorrellsBlades Knife Grinding Jig:
• The World's Easiest Gr...
Keep up doing the good work. It's great making your own knives(blades). Always wonderfull watching your videos, simple and relaxing 🙂
Thank you kindly Peter. I'm glad you like it.
I also wanted to ask you to look at a channel called " Thetopicala" good Puukko Video's there.
amatör demirciyi seyretmek çok güzeldi.ellerine sağlık.senin o güzel bicağı yapacağına inanıyorum.kardeşim vahit🌹🌹🌹
Çok teşekkürler. pes etmeyeceğim
Hello Vahid. I really enjoyed your video. You are making quick progress! You are doing better than I did when I started. Good jod, brother.
Thank you very much Richard.
I think the results are excellent for an absolute beginner.
Maybe you could talk to Torbjörn Åhman, a Swedish blacksmith. He can advise you in your own language, which is always an advantage, I think.
About the hardening: I've seen and read that some kinds of steel are better cooled in oil, but there are also a few better cooled in water. I follow a few blacksmiths on RUclips, especially Shurap, a Ukrainian. Love his creations.
Thanks John, I'll look up who Torbjörn and Shurap are. I'm an absolute "no clue guy" when it comes to what steel prefers what treatment. But I'm on the path of learning 😊
So glad that you started to forge my friend. some tips. Blacksmiths think in Mass more than measurements. If you weigh some of the knife blades that you are familiar with, then you can start with about that much weight of steel plus about 3-8 percent for forge scale loss and " cleaning up with the files or grinders. If doing Pattern welded Damascus, you add about 25-35% for losses. A fast way to spit wood for the fire is over the "cut off Hardie" on the anvil. or use a hand full of dried pinecones. I see that the beautiful anvil that you are working on has not had the edged dressed. the from edge and rear edge as you are standing at the anvil should be radiused in a taper from one end to the other or on a twin horn design you can do from the center out. this tapered edge saves the edges from getting chipped out. also, it gives smoother transition lines in your worked piece. and you taper them so that you have different sized radius to work off of for different projects. this can be done with a file, or a grinder or sanding disk. The larger taper can be up to 3/8th of an inch tapering down to almost a razor-sharp edge at the other end of the line. This sharp part of the edge is for making sharp points or edges and should only be worked with light blows as to not chip out the edge. "Joey Van der Steeg" has a great you tube video on Dressing your anvil. If you take the time to line up the front edges of the top and bottom dies in the power hammer, you can achieve a very clean transition from the blade to tang with just the power hammer. You can use a Kiss block or plate on the trip hammer dies so that you get a uniform thickness of the steel. Ilia on the channel " That Works" has a couple a great videos on forging bevels and hammer control " How to forge bevels the right way" and you can forge a knife correctly [ hears how]. Even after over 40 years of smithing, his videos gave me new InSite on things i could do better. Decide on a common tang size for your blades and make a pair of tongs for that size with a locking ring, so that you can hold the blade secure with not a lot of your hand getting tired, this also will simplify you handle making prosses later. You can make an open top metal " Handle" or Go/ Nogo Gauge out of a piece of flat bar and a couple of pieces of sqare bar on the sides and set it by the forge to slide the tang into and check it for size as you are forging. For forging the tip of the blade. you can cut the bar in the beginning with an angle, this will help a lot. but if you cut a square end, i normally "Upset" the tip that will be on the spine back into itself, then you can just use the hammer to control how high you want the other" Edge" tip to end up at. This should be done at the edge of the anvil with the hammer hitting half on and half off of the anvil. So that the hammer head does not hit the anvil face and ding it. Both of these will prevent " Fish Mouth" of the tip. I normally use oil instead of water to quench spring steel for blades. For thicker tools like punches water works well. but for thinner blades it can cause cracks. also, most warping in the quench is normally caused by the blade being thicker or thinner in areas from forging or grinding, if done before the quench. I like to grind/ file to shape about 90 percent to the finished shape before heat treating. it is much easier on the belts and files, and if you accidently overheat the edge you won't have to re heat treat. also, any hole in the tang or treading of the tang should be done hot, or while the steel is in a soft Annealed state. For spring steel. heat to a black hot or dull red, but not Nonmagnetic. try to hold this temp for about 30 sec. to a minute, then let cool very slowly in a pile or bucket of vermiculite, or warm wood ashes. Try to get all of the forge scale off of the blades by wire wheel or by pickling in vinegar, this will also help save on belts and files as the forge scale is very hard. I like to find a drill bit that is close to the same thickness of the edge then use the point to scribe a center line the whole length of the edge. then measure up the blade how high you want the grind line. Mark this with a marker or paint. then steeply grind or file to the center line on both sides and slowly work your way up to the height line on each side. I hope some of this will be of some help to you. Thank you for taking us on this Jurney with you. Keep at it. Also, I would finish one of those to a final shape of a blade you would want to keep and keep it for a Pattern for future blades.
Thank you so much for this valuable advice. I'll have to come back and read multiple times to soak in all the good stuff. The anvil is not mine so I'll leave it as it is. I have to admit that I didn't understand some of the terms you used but I'll figure it out. Now it just makes sense to think in mass instead of measurements. The kiss block is an amazing piece of advice. I have so much to learn about different steels and how they should be treated. I didn’t know about the process for springsteel that you just mentioned. Thank you. I'll definitely look up those guys you mentioned.
Awesome to see you start making your own blades. I just started making my own amature blades out of metal peaces so Im not forging yet but thats due to lack of equipment. Lycka till!
Thanks Noah, it is really fun.
A couple of thoughts,
first one, so the next step is to mine for some metal ore.
Second, well making a fire is something he's used to.
Third, I have learned how difficult it is to make a knife handle and sheath.
I am almost done with my fifth knife and it's a huge difference from the first but I'm still learning and because I have worked in various hand working professions I know that there always will be things to be learned.
Some day in the future I too want to learn how to forge a knife for myself.
😆 I think I'll skip the ore mining. It is indeed very satisfying to learn a new skill. Little steps...for me the most important is that I have now started.
Nice work on forging the blade!
For grinding, the machine you have can work. Get some ceramic belts for it. They cut better and last longer than regular belts for wood.
To use the jig holding the blade, have the edge above the top edge fo the jig, and you need a flat platten, or tool rest, to slide the jig along. You could add one to your existing belt sander.
Thank you, it's great to know I can use my bench sander. I'll definitely look for the ceramic belts. And thanks for the tip about the edge.
Hi I'm new to your channel but I have loved watching you making knifes and sheaths, just one thing hit the work piece a bit harder ,and you seem to be going back to the heat to often I think it looks still hot enough , and it's best to do the tip when the piece is still thick at the tip,and that belt grinder is not the right one a small 1,,x 30,, is fine only cheep
Thank you kindly for the advice. I heard it mentioned from some others too that I reheat the piece too soon 😅
Keep it up, Vahid!
Thank you Warner. I'm not giving up 😅👍